Pinehurst Golf Adventure

 

Pinehurst NC

A Golf Adventure

August 2021

 

           

          I’ve played golf in Branson MO, Kansas City KS, and Salt Lake City, but haven’t done a real “golf vacation.” Marjorie’s brother-in-law Jeff (my then apartment mate when he started dating Mary, thereby leading to my soon-to-be 50^th wedding anniversary ˗ but that’s another story) invited me to join a golf gathering of friends from St. Catherine’s High School in Racine WI (plus others over the years) that since 2001 has been a periodic reunion event dubbed “Still Crazy;” the core group is captured in freshmen “mug shots” (1961) in one of event organizer Bob Schroeder’s e-mails. 

 

Their logo is, shall we say, an homage to both the SCHS Angels and the “Blues Brothers” (John Belushi & Dan Aykroyd). Sites for the gatherings have included Santa Fe, Utah, Myrtle Beach, Breckenridge, Phoenix, & Orlando. Cancelled last year by the COVID pandemic (like so many things), but the 11^th “full-fledged official trip” has been organized for Pinehurst NC in August. I wait to see if there’s room for a “guest,” the invite coming in June to be on the 24-man roster, a smaller group this time. Couldn’t pass up this adventure. More about Pinehurst and courses below, but suffice to say legendary Bobby Jones called it “the St. Andrews of United States golf.”

            I arrange my participation with Bob, who has quite a task! Plus Tim Paulson handling financial matters. The stay is covered by a trip charge that, to quote Bob, “covers EVERYTHING once you arrive: shared vehicle travel, all meals, all munchies/healthy eating between meals, a dozen balls, green fees, carts, range balls, beer, wine, soda, juices, fruits, personal bar soap, tournament entry fees and prizes, four days of great conversation, a houseful of developing new friends, more golf tips than you can stand...and the best tasting hot early morning coffee you can ever recall...on and on...” I decide to join most of the guys for early Saturday arrival to allow a practice round Sunday before festivities officially begin with dinner Sunday night ˗ and, Jeff says, my “initiation.” My flights from Albany to Charlotte NC via Washington DC use mileage accumulated on our United credit card while the pandemic limited travel. Thought I might visit friends outside of Charlotte, but logistics don’t work out. A borrowed bag from friend Glenn will hold golf bag & clubs as checked baggage. That bag has oversized dimensions, but golf bags don’t incur an extra charge. Have to stay under 50 lbs, splitting clothes between carry-on & checked bag. It helps that I can use a very light golf bag that golf buddy Mike wins at a golfing fundraiser.

            Other preparations? Well, I hope to get my game in decent shape by then, but stock up on golf balls just in case. I get my clubs regripped. Another cortisone shot in my back in mid-July to hopefully (along with daily stretching exercises) keep my spinal stenosis manageable. A GRINT website enables me to calculate my handicap for the competitions. Am I ready for August heat in NC? [Coincidentally, just as I firm up my participation in late June a “heat dome” brings record-breaking temps out West, even the Pacific Northwest; e.g., 116º in Portland, 107º in Seattle, 118º in a British Columbia town that’s the highest ever anywhere in Canada! In mid-July more record heat (130° in Death Valley!) plus drought fuels dozens of wildfires. But I digress.] We reach into the 90ºs with high humidity, and I’m encouraged to survive my rounds. Mike thoughtfully sends a news item about a highly toxic zebra cobra on the loose in NC, suggesting I shouldn’t search for balls in the rough.

There are some more realistic causes for concern. When this was organized the pandemic seemed largely under control, but a “Delta” COVID variant is causing increased cases among the unvaccinated that again overwhelm hospitals in many areas ˗ was I premature in ending my “Life in a Pandemic” journal? Bob’s e-mails note the need for COVID caution, including ample outdoor patios for gathering at our Shadowlawn lodging. The pent-up demand for travel has contributed to flight delays & cancellations, partly reflecting a shortage of workers from pilots to ground personnel. Fingers crossed these developments don’t mess up my travel.

A package arrives August 2 with info on shared rides from the airport to Pinehurst, phone contacts for everyone, scorecards for courses we’ll play, name labels to put on clubs, even a “Still Crazy” mask – Bob thinks of everything! I organize my packing: some with golf clubs, some in carry-on. I bring a companion: Our Fr. Walsh encourages his flock to “take Jesus with you,” providing a cut-out “Flat Jesus” for photo evidence to share; he says I’ll earn a mulligan for taking FJ with me. This group of Catholic schoolboys should appreciate that. You can play “Where’s Jesus?” to find him in the photos incorporated here (Hint: there are 3). Weather forecasts look pretty favorable for the coming week: highs in low 90s, some chance of PM thunderstorms each day.

The rest of the family have their own adventures. Shortly before I leave son Matt is off to Lake Tahoe to play percussion in the orchestra for Classical Tahoe 2021. It’s his 3^rd year for this enjoyable gig. We visited during the 1^st 2, can’t make it this year tho we can see the concerts streamed. His 1^st concert on Friday canceled due to “bad air” from the Western forest fires, but other concerts OK. Following Marjorie’s casting in June as an “extra” (now called “background” she tells me) in a scene filmed in Manhattan for "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" (Amazon Prime) (I’m not at liberty to say more), she has a new casting in "The White House Plumbers" (HBO) that’s more local: COVID testing in Albany & wardrobe fitting in Newburgh before I leave, filming in Albany after I return.

The biggest story in Albany now, of course, is widespread calls for Gov. Cuomo to resign or be impeached following the NYS Attorney General’s report that he has “sexually harassed multiple women” and fostered a “toxic workplace” with a “culture of fear and intimidation and intimacy and abuse.” One commentator noted that Coumo has long been viewed as a bully, and that when a bully falls down no one will help him up. Quite a fall from grace after Coumo was viewed by many as something of a hero for his ongoing reports during the COVID pandemic.

 Saturday, August 7: “I’m Goin’ to Carolina”

            I arrange flights thru DC’s Dulles to arrive at Charlotte airport to meet others coming in to share the 100-mile drive to Pinehurst. A quiet day at Albany airport, both weather (hazy sun) & people. Masks required in airports & on planes. Easy thru friendly security check. Nobody asks to see my vaccination card. On to a very small plane for 8:20 departure, seatmate an ICU nurse in Glens Falls. He was hospitalized with COVID, things are ramping up now, he’s headed to KC for the funeral of a brother-in-law who died of COVID. A sad reminder that the pandemic hasn’t left us. A young woman across the aisle is very anxious about flying, makes it OK with support of friends ahead of her. Pretty views as we

descend toward Dulles, early arrival at 9:30. A shuttle to my D terminal where I partake of “Snacks by Marjorie.” Hazy sun here, too. 

I paid a bit extra for Economy Plus to Charlotte. We board along with the Charlotte Independence Soccer Club, which plays in the USL Championship, the “second tier” of American soccer. We sit a while

before takeoff. Pretty clouds & skyline view, landing a little late at 1:15. 

I grab a cart to schlep with my bags to Budget car rental to rendezvous with my ride. 2+ hours to wait, I catch up on some New Yorkers. Ah, there’s a guy who looks Still Crazy: a golf bag & Oshkosh cap. Happy to meet John & Ken. We’ll be driving companions thruout the stay, John driving, Ken navigating, me back-seat driving. After “deconstructing” our bags to fit into the car we’re on our way. Past a couple of Bojangles fast-food spots & many Baptist churches on an uneventful ride. 

Our lodging is Shadowlawn Estate, built 1929 and recently restored & redecorated. An 8,800 sq, ft. English Tudor on nearly 2 acres in historic "Old Town Pinehurst,” with wooded landscaping, original

hardwood floors & carvings, 11 bedrooms & 13.5 baths. We occupy the main house and the "Cottage" - 2-floor 3-bedrooms with 3 baths, kitchen, living room. It’s situated in a residential neighborhood, Pinehurst Resort and Village Centre with shops, bars, & restaurants a manageable walk away. The interior includes lovely living room & dining room, a sizable kitchen, sunroom, and more. And is sprinkled with religious exhortations (“All I need today is a little coffee and a whole lot of Jesus”); Flat Jesus should feel right at home. 

Jeff & I share a room in the Cottage. Quite Spartan compared to rooms in the main house, but we don’t spend much time there. We all gather together for an excellent meal and good company at Pinehurst Brewing Company, my 1^st chance to meet most of the guys.

            What about the golf? In 1895 James Walker Tufts purchased 6,000 acres of North Carolina Sandhills land with a vision that became Pinehurst resort, and later The Village of Pinehurst. The Resort hosts 9 courses, including famous “Pinehurst No. 2,” each noted for the architects and concepts introduced. Resort courses too expensive for this gathering, but the area is home to over 52 golf courses, many having hosted USGA Championships or other national/state championships. We’ll play on 4 such courses, all highly rated.

Sunday, August 8: “Carolina Pines”

       A number of us arrived yesterday to get things started with a practice round, A beautiful sunny 1^st AM, about 70 (tho headed for 90 & humid), Lots of breakfast & other options in the kitchen: bacon, eggs, toast, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee, There’s also plenty of beer, wine, soda, fruit drinks, & water, plus various snacks.

          Off at 7:30 past a water tower shaped like a golf ball on a tee to Seven Lakes Golf Club, designed by Peter Tufts III, godson of legendary course designer Donald Ross. A lovely course, many pine trees (they’re everywhere!), dew on fairways & greens. My 4some includes Jeff, Randy, & Dave. I lose a ball on the 1^st hole! Not an auspicious start, but overall I’m not unhappy with my play. This and the other courses are longer than I’m used to, presenting a challenge. Pretty flowering trees; Randy calls his gardener wife who says it’s crepe myrtle. Jeff holes a couple of very long putts. A good lunch at the club.

Back home I explore the pretty grounds, discovering whimsical sculptures of children. Then a walk thru the neighborhood of beautiful pine trees & lovely houses, continuing on across Beulah Hill Rd. (sounds pretty Southern) to the Carolina Hotel, a beautiful century-old hotel with signature copper cupola that’s part of the Pinehurst Resort.

STILL CRAZY-Pinehurst begins officially with the traditional Welcome Reception and Pizza Dinner, followed by a meeting in the living room. Tho Jeff slyly suggested there would be an “initiation” of some sort, 3 of us “newbies” are just brought forward for an intro & photo, and given “SC” hats. Then Bob distributes swag for everyone: inscribed balls plus a box of another dozen, a Still Crazy towel listing past gatherings, St. Catherine’s inscribed pens, notepad, etc.

 Monday, August 9: “A Long Day from the Whites”

     Early AM fog. Bill, who seems something of a legendary cook for the group, is here now to supervise the “organized chaos” of breakfast. Bob hands out “Pinehurst Local Rules,” including 1 permitted mulligan per round. But they won’t honor Fr. Walsh’s promise of an extra mulligan for Flat Jesus!

 

Today’s FOURSOMES CHAMPIONSHIP is at Legacy Golf Links, part of a series of courses designed by Jack Nicklaus & son Jack Jr. A former USGA Championship course, the 2014 N.C. Course of the Year, rated 4.5 stars by Golf Digest, the 12^th- ranked New Public Course for 2015, voted in the Top 50 Public Courses to play in the USA by GolfWorld's Readers' Choice Awards. The fog yields an interesting photo op at the practice range. I’m in a 4some with Bill, Greg, & Dave; scoring is best 2 net on each hole. Another beautifully landscaped course, with hazards not always apparent to a 1^st-time player; e.g., a large waste area catches what I thought was a fine shot, turning a good par chance into, well, more. Even the course starter says “It will be a long day from the whites,” referring to the tee positions plus heat & humidity. The course sends us around & thru a pretty housing development. My driver is on today, but too many poor shots follow. Dave holes a long shot for birdie, capfuls of Fireball to celebrate, Lunch at the club.

I continue my explorations with a 20-minute walk past lovely homes to the Village shops, a very pretty area. A stop into “One of a Kind” gallery mostly of local artists, A nice chat with the friendly shopkeeper who’s from Oshkosh, B’Gosh!

Tonight’s CHAMPIONS DINNER is at Ironwood Cafe. Our drive there takes us by more golf courses – they’re everywhere! A lovely evening, an excellent dinner outside under an awning, capped by strawberry cheesecake. The manager/server is a very friendly Jennifer Garner look-alike. Lots of reminiscing. A bit of a kerfuffle about the round: some confusion led some groups to finish on the yellow (shorter) tees while others stayed on the longer white tees. It’s decided to accept scores “as is.” Driving from the Café in the dark with no lights or signs along the road we wind up going the wrong way . . . until encountering flashing police lights just as we realize our error! Not to worry, he’s very understanding, sends us on our way on the correct side of the road.

 Tuesday, August 10: “A Day at the Beach”

          A pleasant AM, partly sunny. Today’s STILL CRAZY SCRAMBLE is at Tobacco Road Golf Club, rated #50 of the "Top 100 Courses in the World" by Golf Course Architecture Magazine and in the "Top 100 Public Courses in America" by Golf Digest & Golf Magazine. A 30-minute drive thru farm country to Sanford. Driving in . . . OMG!: look at the terrain, hills & water & waste areas of sand & shrubs that often dominate the fairways and around the sometimes huge greens. Sand, sand, and more sand (tho no “sand traps”). We even drive carts thru the waste areas. This should be “fun,” as Marjorie always encourages when I go out for golf. It’s good the format is scramble to use the best shots in the 4some (I’m grouped with Chris, Greg, & Terry). 

Very humid, up to the 90s, hills to climb – I’m pretty much out of gas after a very steep climb up to the 17^th tee, Rain while we play 18 and thunder after we finish; Chris from very dry Seattle is happy to see any rain, the rest of us already too soaked with sweat to care. A very “adventuresome” round; I “donated” quite a few balls today. 

Many of us gather as a sort of gallery to watch the last 4some complete 18. A news break on a playing partner’s phone: Cuomo has resigned as Gov; well, “given notice” might be a better term, since he’ll stay another 2 weeks. These Wisconsin boys don’t seem to care much.

          Mostly sunny as we drive back home for hors d’oeuvres. More reminiscing; Jeff & I share some stories of Marjorie & Mary’s Uncle Bill. Italian food brought in for dinner, then BD cake for Paul. Rain & thunder as we meet to distribute some awards. I manage 3^rd Places for both Foursomes & Scramble, tho I can’t claim much of the credit. Teams (white or black hat given to each member) and pairings set up for tomorrow’s “Ryder Cup” matches.

Wednesday, August 11: “Donald Ross Greens”

          A gorgeous early AM. Today’s STILL CRAZY RYDER CUP is at Pine Needles Golf Club, designed by Donald Ross to be an "equal sister course" to his fabled Pinehurst #2. It’s rated one of the "Top 50 Public Access Courses in the U.S."  Since 1990 Pine Needles has hosted more USGA Championships than any other venue, and the Women's U.S. Open returns in 2022. Even the shopkeeper at the Village gallery made note of the “Donald Ross greens” here: some very large, fast, plateaus & undulations.

We have a group photo taken by the practice green, then off we go after being given towels for sweat - temps head into the 90s, very humid. At the 9^th hole I become very popular treating our 4some (Chris, Dave, & John) to Gatorade & Red Bull; and the wonderful woman at the snack bar adds cups full of ice! A slow round as usual, I don’t play very well except one highlight: a putt from 10’ off the green, over a big hump, down 40’ into the hole for a par! Take that, Donald Ross! And I do win my match 5-up; the 2 teams end in a tie. Handed a welcome Southern Pines IPA as we drive in. Into the clubhouse where Gary is buying a round of drinks after his hole-in-one! We can also celebrate surviving 4 hot/humid rounds in 4 days; even Flat Jesus is pretty worn out.

         

A number of us make a detour to the Pinehurst Resort to gawk. Wow! Beautiful clubhouse & grounds, even expansive croquet courts. A long corridor lined with photos of famous golfers & paraphernalia, Into the very large pro shop where I get a Pinehurst t-shirt. Here and elsewhere people are so friendly & helpful to “you gentlemen.” 

Jeff buys a round of drinks (refreshing root beer for me) on a veranda overlooking the 18^th green. Nearby is a statue of Payne Stewart’s famous celebration of his winning putt here in the 1999 US Open. 

We walk onto an immense practice green, tossing a few balls to watch how they roll on the undulations. Rumbles of thunder as we leave. The Traditional Last Night Cook-out of steak & fixin’s, followed by various awards (including pewter trophies) & appreciation gifts. Then repacking for the trip home.

Thursday, August 12: “Almost Made It”

          We’re happy to greet Phil at breakfast; he was taken to a hospital Tuesday, apparently dehydration. As for my arrival, return flights arranged to share the drive back to Charlotte airport with John & Ken. Mostly sunny, an uneventful drive. To catch their earlier flight I have 4 hours until mine. I sit & chat a while with Still Crazy Bud. Smashburger lunch. My plane boards on time, seated next to a flight attendant headed to Syracuse and eventually Berlin. 

A little early into Dulles, everything looks good. Shuttle & train to my gate area. Onto the last leg (operated by Air Wisconsin!), taxi out on time. Then we sit for 30 minutes due to traffic control . . . until the pilot announces we need to return to the gate to check some mechanical issues . . . and then canceled. 

The next 3½ hours in line at Customer Service. Can’t get a flight until Saturday! So an add-on vacation from United: 2 night hotel plus meal vouchers. A shared taxi to Hampton Inn Dulles/Cascades with fellow strandee Randy from Cooperstown. A call to Marjorie. She says Jeff has also been stranded in St. Louis on his way to KC. It’s plenty hot in Albany, too: 88 with heat index of 110! DC reached 97 today. I catch up on e-mails on a hotel PC.

Friday, August 13: “There’s No Place Like Home”

            Still hot & humid, mid-90s. Tropical Storm Fred headed to Florida. The hotel borders on an extensive area of shops, so maybe I can wander later. Or jump around on Sky Zone trampolines? But first, back to the airport to get my vouchers for tonight & tomorrow. Waiting for the shuttle I chat with a couple from last night’s stranded line; they’re headed to a gathering of friends in VT. She says I look “refreshed.” The “Additional Services” line at the airport moves along much more briskly than last night . . . and he finds me a seat on a flight tonight!!

Back to the hotel to hang out. Catching up on news: July was the world’s hottest month in 142 years of modern records. Speaking of heat, Biden is taking some as the Taliban sweeps across Afghanistan after US troop withdrawals. The US Senate passes a $1.2 trillion infrastructure bill, gaining support from 19 Republicans. The Supreme Court declines to block vaccination mandates for college students. Many states are going back to mask mandates; but TX & FL ban mandates despite having 40% of COVID hospitalizations. US COVID cases now total 37.2 million, 636,000 deaths; another 3 million cases & 30,000+ deaths since I concluded my “Life in a Pandemic” journal in late May.

I collect my belongings to shuttle back to the airport; very quiet, quick thru security. I pamper myself (still on United vouchers) at Vino Volo: Mediterranean plate of appetizers & wine in a quiet bistro. As I relax in a gate area a tiny little girl no more than 2 comes up, smiles & gazes at me with beautiful eyes, checks out my carry-on. Her parents come around – they’ve just arrived from Afghanistan on special immigration visas after being translators/interpreters for Americans! On their way now to a new life in Portland OR, where they have a friend. Dad suggests their daughter sees me as a grandfatherly type. This will be a very special memory - a poignant reminder that some things are more important than golf.

I come across Randy again; he was also changed to this flight. And another Wisconsin “small world” experience: I sit in the gate area next to a women whose boss is from Baraboo, near where Marjorie grew up. Oh no! Dark clouds, rumbles of thunder & lightning, flights being delayed. But we do eventually board a couple of hours late, into Albany at 9:30, my golf bag already arrived and sitting in the baggage office. Marjorie is waiting for me. Back home she tells me of going to an estate sale and being taken aback by all the “stuff” that was left to be gotten rid of. Inspired, she’s been busily going thru cupboards to get rid of unneeded stuff, following Marie Kondo’s mantra: “Does it spark joy?” Happily, it appears that I still make the cut.

What a wonderful trip! Beautiful, interesting, challenging golf courses. Plenty hot & humid, as expected, but almost entirely rain-free for golf. Many of us did not play as well as we’d like, some hassles at the end, but nonetheless well worth it! John & Ken were an excellent driving team (well, there was that one wrong-way blemish) and enjoyable companions. Many thanks to Jeff for inviting me, to Bob & Tim for their incredible job putting this together, and to the great bunch of guys, new friends, for welcoming me to their gathering.