Burlington VT

 

Burlington

June 2021

 Marjorie likes to refer to her “Birthday Festival,” so maybe I can at least call this trip part of my birthday “celebration.” I’m still basking in birthday greetings. Marjorie’s brother-in-law Jeff’s BlueMountain e-card with gospel singers serenading me: “Still lookin’ good. Can I get an Amen!” Plenty of other greetings via e-mail & Facebook. A round of applause from my CARGO golf league. But it’s time to let go and enjoy our jaunt up to Burlington. It’s so nice that travel options are beginning to expand. We enjoyed an “interstate” trip to Nantucket in mid-May. Now Vermont, one of the most stringent states for COVID testing & quarantine requirements (14 days!) for out-of-state visitors, is easing its restrictions; it’s the 1^st state with 80% vaccinated. We’ve been briefly thru Burlington a couple of times, most recently 2010 coming back from a trip to Montreal with Steve & Jill Messner, but haven’t really seen much of the city. On the shores of Lake Champlain, Vermont's largest city, population 42,500, Burlington is “known for its ultra-liberal environment and free-thinking spirit.” It reminds us of Madison WI.

Thursday, June 17^th: “Panoramas and Markets”

           A gorgeous day heading out at 7am for the 3-hour 140-mile drive north. Down into the high 40s last night, lots of sun with temps in the 70s today. Good thing we’re not headed out West: a “dangerous heat dome” bringing temps of 115-120 to Phoenix, Las Vegas, and other places. Crossing below Lake George, passing a large horse farm and several big stone companies (lots of granite around here). Into Vermont, a stop at a Welcome Center. 

A scenic drive: farms, pretty towns, mountains on both sides. Past “Devil’s Bowl” racetrack (seems like Lebanon Valley Speedway near us) and Shelburne Museum (we visited in 1977 with little Matt and Marjorie’s Mom).

        Into town, first stop, after circling to find parking on a nearby dead-end street, Battery Park, high overlooking Lake Champlain. A military camp during the Wat of 1812, a decorative cannon commemorates a battle defending against the British. Now a park with promenade, playground, and bandshell for summer concerts. “Beanie’s Bus” (a converted school bus) also seems to be a mainstay for lunch, snacks, even an ATM. Most notable for us: “Wow!” panoramas of the lake and Adirondack Mtns in the distance. 

 

Down to Waterfront Park with more views of lake, docks & boats, mountains. Into ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain. Very colorful child-oriented exhibits & interactive experiences; fish, frogs, turtles, snakes. An exhibit on local sea serpent “Champ.”

        

  A short walk up the hill to suggested lunch spot Burlington Bay Market & Café, more panoramic views. Next door is a colorful building façade for the “April Cornell” flagship store. Marjorie finds a cute shirt marked down while I wander some more along the waterfront. 

          A drive up into downtown to not the best parking garage location, leaving a longish walk to 4-block pedestrian Church Street Marketplace, with many shops, eateries, & outdoor cafes. Listed as a National Register Historic District, also one of the Great Public Spaces in America. Overlooking from the upper end is the church it's named for, First Unitarian Universalist Church. Public art works include a life-sized statue of local jazz artist Big Joe Burrell. 

Frog Hollow Craft Center is known for its selection of works by Vermont craftspeople. Sadly, Ben & Jerry’s isn’t open until later! But we enjoy the aroma at Lake Champlain Chocolate Store. Some interesting signs outside taverns: “Husband Day Care Center. Dropoffs Welcome;” “Soup of the Day: Whiskey with Croutons.”

I walk over to impressive City Hall, deer & bears out front, Fire Dept. next door, a park with children frolicking in fountains. Lots of pretty murals on buildings here and around the city.

         

A short drive to South Burlington and Anchorage Inn, found via booking.com. In a busy commercial area, tucked between Barnes & Noble and Trader Joe’s, nothing fancy but comfortable & conveniently located. Masks & social distancing still required in public areas. I get a “Happy Birthday” from the friendly desk clerk. 

While Marjorie relaxes I head nearby to “the Hill,” campus of U of Vermont (UVM), a basketball (and academic) rival of UAlbany. Pretty buildings include Ira Allen Chapel and rather gothic Billings Library. Burlington's merchants & leaders built stately homes on the hill leading to campus, many of which are now university buildings (and at least 1 fraternity) and part of smaller Champlain College.

          Time for dinner. Chef-owned Pauline’s, spotted in a brochure at the Inn, looks good and proves an excellent choice. Informal ambience, fine food, friendly waitress. Highlighted by strawberry shortcake for a “birthday” dessert. Coming again tomorrow seems “a perfect choice,” as our waitress would say. [It’s not unusual for us to find a place we like and try different menu items.] 

Back to Battery Park to enjoy the beautiful panoramas in lowering sun. 

Then to UVM with pretty lighting on buildings, and nearby Hannaford for in-room breakfast tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 Friday, June 18^th: “Islands and Farms”

          Another beautiful morning, and thruout the day. Today is Paul McCartney’s BD, stealing my thunder. We did more than expected yesterday, so today we’ll explore some spots outside the city. But first I’m up and out at 5am for a quick drive (along Main St with almost all the lights flashing yellow) down to the waterfront for pretty sunrise photos. 

The sun catching City Hall, County Courthouse, and College Street Congregational Church is particularly beautiful.

          We first head north, passing Albany College of Pharmacy as we leave town! A pretty 40-mile drive thru Champlain Islands (South Hero, Grand Isle, North Hero), beautiful deep blue water whipped up a bit by a brisk breeze, turtle crossing signs, to Isle La Motte, the northernmost island only about 10 miles from Canada (some 500 year-round residents). A statue of Samuel de Champlain where he landed in 1609. A French fort was built in 1666 that’s now the site of St. Anne’s Shrine. 

A large retreat site (tho we’re amused to see Wi-Fi, big-screen TV, etc., so it’s not exactly isolated), Chapel, a 15’ gold-leaf statue of Our Lady of Lourdes, Stations of the Cross among pines near the lake. 

Marjorie has a pop quiz “Name That Saint” for a row of enclosures housing individual saints; she misses only 1 or 2. Heading away along shoreline we’re dive-bombed by birds, maybe turkey vultures or hawks.

          Back into the city, passing thru some neighborhoods of brightly colored houses – pink, purple, etc. – to Ethan Allen Homestead, the farmhouse home of the Revolutionary War hero on 1,400 acres that include trails and community gardens. 

Burlington Bagel Café, voted “Best Bagel,” for an excellent lunch. On thru heavy mid-PM traffic to the Lake Champlain Chocolate Factory Store in South Burlington. No tours now, but we enjoy ice cream “samples” while watching a video. 

Continuing south to Shelburne, parking by the village green. Beautiful classical library & toy store buildings. An unusual sculpture made of fire hydrants. Shelburne Country Store with, Marjorie says, “too much of everything!”

          A longer stop at Shelburne Farms. This is another “more than expected” experience on this trip. Amassed from 30 farms 1886-1905, now a charitable education organization 1400-acre working farm and National Historic Landmark. It looks at first to be only open for hiking the 10+ miles of trails on the large property, too daunting for us, but friendly Janice gives us a driving pass. First stop: the striking  and rather gothic Farm Barn designed in 1886, lots of sheep nearby. 

Then the also striking Shelburne House, built 1887-97 and restored as an Inn in 1987 (closed now) with 24 bedrooms, 2 cottages, and 2 guest houses; it won the President’s Historic Preservation Award. Lovely formal gardens on the lakeshore. None of the interiors open, but Wow! And we only scratched the surface. 

A bit further south for a short stop at Dakin Farm, with smokehouse & maple syrup specialties. 

          Another full day! Back to Pauline’s for another excellent dinner, capped by shared key lime pie to complete my Birthday Celebration. The evening is rounded out relaxing while watching “The Karate Kid.”

 Saturday, June 19^th: “Farmers and Towns” 

          Lots of rain during the night, but nice when I wake up, so another quick drive to the waterfront. Hoehl Park and Sculpture Garden with life-size sculpture of sailor & duffel bag looking out to sea (well, lake). Up around City Hall & Courthouse, with “Stop Racism” & “Black Lives Matter” in somewhat faded red paint in big letters along Main St. 

Setup is starting for celebration of “Juneteenth,” aka Freedom Day, Jubilee Day, Liberation Day, and Emancipation Day. Just this week designated a national holiday, tho a Vermont state holiday since 2008, this recognizes complete ending of slavery June 19, 1865, when Union troops arrived in Galveston Bay, Texas,  extending the Emancipation Proclamation to the most remote slave state. Various educational & cultural events scheduled around Burlington. Warnings about big crowds and difficulty parking, plus a nasty weather forecast, so we decide to catch a Farmer’s Market and head home. 

But first, heading back to the Inn I swing thru UVM campus: sculpture of mascot catamount, other sculptures outside Fleming Art Museum (now open only to UVM staff & students), and an interesting mix of old & new buildings.

          Back to Burlington Bagel Bakery for breakfast, then to the colorful Farmer’s Market, adjacent to the South End Arts District, “hip performance venue, gallery & café” Arts Riot nearby, lake in the background. Contrary to forecasts, it’s a lovely morning and nice weather until some clouds later. We’re early, vendors still setting up, but Marjorie finds a pretty mug for our collection. She also gets a tip from one vendor on signs.com for roll-out signs we could make for her art shows. We enjoy chatting with other vendors, interesting names like Farmer Sue, Featherflies and Humble Bee, Rad Dad Packs (offering CBD products).

          On our way south to Vergennes, which we’d admired on the way up Thursday. Impressive downtown buildings. Marjorie stays in town to wait for a couple of resale shops to open, 

I head out of town, more pretty views, to the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum. 

Indoor exhibits are closed, but no admission fee and pretty photo ops. Back into town, a swing into Falls Park, a view of a series of falls below the town on Otter Creek. 

I find Marjorie relaxing at a gazebo in the village green. Back on the road, some slow-going traffic by the many outlets near Lake George, home about 1pm.

           A lovely, relaxing 3 days.