Tahoe & Western Road Trip

Tahoe Opus 2:

A Western Road Trip

July-August 2019

          Last summer Matt spent 3 weeks as a percussionist for Classical Tahoe, in “the best orchestra I’ve ever played with.” He was delighted to be invited back. We followed him out last year, and we’re also delighted to join him again. Our trip this time incorporates visits with friends and family, as well as Western sightseeing: starting in Salt Lake City to visit friends, across Nevada on the “Loneliest Road in America,” a few days at Lake Tahoe, and up to Salem OR for a family visit. 

We’re ready for a break from not-so-retiring retirement activities. Marjorie completed organizing & teaching at the Colonie Art League Art Camp for 4^th-6^th-graders on Tuesday, so she’s good to go. I’ve been doing my Colonie Senior Service Centers Board President thing at meetings on investments, grants, and other financial stuff  ̶  I keep telling them my brother is the accountant! My brain needs a rest. And maybe we can take a break from the news: Robert Mueller’s testimony before Congress, likely to no great effect; Trump’s ongoing lies and moronic ramblings.

Thursday, July 25: “Friends in High Places” 

Up and out early to Albany airport with its art & local exhibits for our flights west. A lovely day. We’ve just finished some hot humid weather here, tho it appears we’re heading into some heat (but not the humidity, as they say) in SLC. Accumulated mileage from our United Airlines credit card used for flights, plus extra cash for “Economy Plus” extra legroom on our longest legs. On-time departure. Oops! attendant spills OJ on Marjorie; she gets a free snack box as recompense. 

On time to Chicago about 8:45. OMG! A dinosaur in the concourse; it's OK, on loan from the Field Museum. One more credit card perk: passes to use the United Lounge during a nearly 4 hour layover. We settle in, coffee & breakfast items in a buffet; everybody (except me!) on their devices. 

Strolling a bit I enjoy watching a window washer with graceful squeegie choreography. We're here long enough the buffet switches to lunch food. Then thru the artfully lighted tunnel to Concourse C and our gate.

Wheels down a bit early into SLC at 3, pretty views of Great Salt Lake, valley ringed with mountains, city in the distance. Mix of clouds & sun, temp in the 90s. We pick up our Thrifty white 2018 KIA Soul; a bit larger than reserved, seems quite comfy. Texas plates: a few people comment we're far from home, I reply "You don't know the half of it." 

We’re staying with Sonia Salari, a former doctoral student at UAlbany on the U of Utah faculty, who very generously offered a place to stay. Haven’t seen Sonia since a brief stay in 1997 (can it be that long?) before touring Utah National Parks, and we’re looking forward to meeting her daughters. Also looking forward to reconnecting with Jane and Kim Blair, friends from a Viking River Cruise in the Netherlands and Belgium in 2014. Sonia has a workshop this evening, won't be home until late. So off to visit Jane & Kim in Herriman SE of the city. 

A pretty house, mountains peeking up across the street (we never seem out of mountain views on this trip!), nice yard & garden. 

We relax on their porch with local beers, including "Polygamy" (logo: “Why Have Just One?”). 

A stroll in the neighborhood, views of Mt. Olympus and the Wasatch range, pretty juniper. Dinner of grilled salmon, veggies from the garden. We meet Kim's mother, who lives with them. Fireworks nearby left over from Pioneer Day.

 More coffee to keep me awake on a 45-minute drive further south thru lots of construction to Sonia's in Halladay, arriving after 11. A big log house, seemingly quite filled with 4 dogs!: 2 large rescued Newfies (Oreo & Bella), a large white Samoyed (Boodha), and a little Shi-tzu/Chihuahua mix (DayZ). All very friendly; Oreo even tries to snuggle into bed with us, but quickly nixed by Sonia. 16-year-old daughter Rana also lives here, other daughter Leila is at the U of Utah; we'll meet both later. They've all recently returned from a trip to Greece to find the house behind them burned down and their own AC on the fritz, so we hope we're not adding too many complications!

Friday, July 26: "This is the Place!" 

As usual in our travels I'm up early, about 6. A beautiful sunrise, then a bit overcast. 

The house is like a mountain lodge, mountain views all around.

A "semi-rural" neighborhood, a duck & 2 goats, ATV, and boat next door. We get better acquainted with the dogs; you need a towel for Bella, who tends to slobber. Breakfast with Sonia, but she has to stay for her HVAC guy so we head to Kim & Jane's for some touring. Light rain as we drive thru the miles of sprawl surrounding the city.

First to Liberty Park: beautiful trees, ponds, flowers.

 

A nice little Museum of Utah Folk Art. And a bit of Mormon manners: 3 girls pass by on scooters with an "Excuse us, sir."

Lunch at the nearby Park Cafe; we eschew the "galaxy-busting" Darth Burger, but I partake of a Gustavo's Burrito. We're getting our first lessons in SLC’s street system: a grid with the Temple as "ground zero," other main streets designated north-south-east-west from there; e.g., the public library is 210 E 400 S.

On to the International Peace Gardens. Wow: way more than expected! Beautiful gardens & sculptures representing 26 countries.

 

Then to the Capitol. Kim points out geological features from the prehistoric Lake Bonneville. We can also see spires of the Cathedral of the Madeleine, and Memory Grove Park in a canyon below with monuments, fountains, walking paths. Past a statue of Massasoit ("friend of Pilgrims") to enter the Capitol. 

Another Wow!: rotunda full of murals,

ornate Senate & House of Representatives and other rooms, 

views down to the city and valley below. 

We continue to This is the Place monument, at the mouth of Emigration Canyon honoring Brigham Young's statement in 1847. Another sculpture nearby of seagulls saving the day by eating insects devouring their fields in 1848 (the "Miracle of the Gulls").

   

More rain as we drive back to Sonia's. She's had a difficult day with the HVAC people, so we head out for good Indian food at Guras Spice House. Out after to a full rainbow! We've had quite a variety of weather to start: cool & rainy early, hot & sunny in the middle, cool & rainy at the end.

Saturday, July 27: “Fore!”  

 

More rain during the night, mostly cloudy early AM. Breakfast at Sonia's, then to Jane & Kim's with a Happy Birthday phone call to grandson Miles on the way. Marjorie & Jane head to brunch and shopping; Kim, Sonia, and I to golf.  

A chance to try a mountain course, see what “thinner air” can do for my shots. Kim has a spare set of clubs for me. We ride carts instead of my usual walking, not being used to the 6,000’ elevation. 

A beautiful day at Mountain Dell Golf Course: mostly sunny with pretty clouds, a bit of a breeze and cooler than usual for July. Sun & shadows play across the mountains to make beautiful patterns. Wildlife: many ground squirrels, a couple of deer, magpies and other birds . . . and a coyote facing me on one fairway! Sonia posts my coyote encounter on Facebook. A lovely day of golf, tho my game isn't good enough to tell whether "thin air" makes much difference  ̶  I blame the unfamiliar clubs. Sonia gets credit for the only birdie, holing out from the fairway for a 2. Lunch at Sand Wedge Cafe.

After brunch, where Marjorie learns about "fry sauce" and "Utah scones," she & Jane have an enjoyable tour of resale shops. They also go to interesting Millcreek library and senior center.

Reunited, Sonia guides us around the beautiful Utah campus. Past the colorful Olympic Stadium and cauldron.  

The impressive Marriott library and Gardner Commons, 

other views as we drive around. 

  

Then to Indochine Restaurant for an excellent Vietnamese/Chinese dinner, joined by Leila. Back at Sonia's we chat with her and Rana about living in a Mormon-dominated culture. And as a child how Rana created such new words as "humilified." Spending time with Leila and Rana (who are color-coded, with blue and red hair, respectively) has been a highlight of today's activities!

Sunday, July 28: "Catholics and Mormons"

 A clear start to a hotter day (up to 93). I do an early neighborhood stroll: horses in a nearby yard, copper mine & mountains to the west. We drive Sonia to her office to work on grading for her summer class (thankfully, she doesn't ask my help!). By the Mormon Temple for photos, then meet Kim & Jane at Cathedral of the Madeleine for 11:00 Mass (yes, there are Catholics here!). 

 
A beautiful interior, many murals. The cantor has an especially wonderful clear voice.

Afterward we walk past Beehive and Lion Houses (residences of Brigham Young, the former topped by a beehive sculpture, the latter larger to accommodate the polygamist’s large family). 

The city is full of beautiful gardens, flowers, green spaces, sculptures. They must have a big water bill! Thru Temple Square gardens, golden Angel Moroni looking down from atop the Temple. Brings memories of the Hill Cumorah Pageant in Palmyra NY, near my hometown Rochester. 

One stop on the light rail and a short walk to Market Street Grill for brunch.

After brunch we walk past interesting buildings (Boston & Newhouse buildings named for mining magnates), the City/County Building with a classic clock tower, 

to the striking City Library designed by Moshe Safdie, also an architect of the similarly beautiful Vancouver library we saw on another trip. "Psyche" hanging sculpture of 1500 small books & butterflies that coalesce to form a human head. 

Rooftop terrace and garden with beehives and panoramic views. Shops in the atrium include an interesting high school art exhibit and Art at the Main art cooperative. 

After leaving Jane & Kim we go to Sonia's office and meet some of her colleagues. And she's finished grading the term papers! A stop at Macey's grocery for staples: local beers for Matt & ice cream for us. Rana joins us for spaghetti & meatballs out back as the sun sets. SLC has been a wonderful start to our trip. We saw and did more than expected, reconnected with friends, and especially enjoyed meeting Rana & Leila.

Monday, July 29:  "High Desert and Mountains"

Another clear AM and pretty sunrise. South along Utah Lake, past Pelican Point Pit. Thru "high desert" with scenery we'll see the next several days. Some green irrigated farmland. A gas stop in Eureka ($3.29/gallon!, but my mantra is "gas when you can"), otherwise it's pretty deserted here (no pun intended), no breakfast spots. 

On to Delta and the very friendly Motel Cafe (my other mantra: "eat when you can"). Nearby is the Topaz Museum, highly recommended by Jane & Kim.

No, not a mineral museum but exhibits, both fascinating and disturbing, about the internment camp near here for Japanese-Americans during WWII (1 of 10 camps). More than 11,000 passed thru here 1942-1945. 

We learn so much from the museum and excellent docents. Artifacts (including affecting paintings by internees), a sample barracks, exhibits on politics of the policy, the process of internment for individuals, and life in the camp. 

So much we didn't know!; e.g., people could leave for a job in the Eastern US or if accepted to college, but couldn't go back to the West Coast and their homes & businesses. A very sad chapter in American history.

Into Jubilee grocery: "cowboy cookies" & coffee for the road. Thru some greener agricultural areas, then more high desert desolate beauty: straight & flat, mountains all around. 

Car reading is 102, not much other traffic, one sign says "Open Range," another "Next Services 83 Miles." But finally "Welcome to Nevada," an oasis of gas station, motel, and "Slots." 

On to Baker, 200 miles from Sonia's. We’re at Stargazer Inn, a small motel by Great Basin National Park, restaurant in front. The "Great Basin" includes the area from the Wasatch Mtns of Utah to the Sierra Nevada in California. The park has 77,000 acres of glacier-carved peaks, topped by 13,000’ Wheeler Peak (2^nd highest in Nevada), Lehman Caves with 1½ miles of underground passages (Marjorie does love caves!), bristlecone pines said to be the world’s oldest living organisms (as much as 5,000 years old). It’s also an Internat’l Dark Sky Park. We found similar at Jasper NP on a cross-Canada train trip in 2014: they touted the world’s largest Dark Sky Preserve (i.e., no artificial light).

Too early for our room, so a short drive up the road next to the Inn to Lehman Cave Visitor Center. Marjorie enjoys some very interesting videos, I hike around the short Mountain View Nature Trail. 

Then we check in with our very friendly motel manager. The place qualifies as "rustic," but quite comfortable and kept cool by "swamp coolers," which we've experienced elsewhere in the Southwest. We turn on the TV to catch some local news only to find a story about the water contamination in Hoosick Falls near us! 

Back to the park and up Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive: in 12 miles we ascend from 5,300' to more than 10,000', temp declines to 70. We do part of the Island Forest Trail: beautiful tall trees, a babbling brook, quite a contrast from the desert below. Higher up, above our energy level, is home to bristlecone pines.

 

Dinner at Kerouac's (Jack K "probably" came thru here on his road trip, since it's the only gas & grocery for many miles, hence the name), a small unassuming place in front of the motel that turns out to be a real gem! Very friendly and chatty staff, everything made from scratch: I enjoy a Dharma Big Burger, Marjorie judges the Caesar salad dressing to be the best she's had, washed down with Uinta Hop Nosh IPA. Our dessert choices of chocolate toffee crunch ice cream with chocolate chip cookie (me) and affogato (Marjorie) earn a "Well played!" from our insouciant waitress.

Tuesday, July 30: "Dark Below, Dark Above"

Both up at 5 for sunrise from Lehman VC. (Could have gotten up after midnight to see a meteor show, but didn't think of it.) Temp is 62. 

Breakfast at Kerouac's, now Marjorie's "favorite restaurant ever!" for its combo of people, ambience, food, and view. Views of some local fauna: a grasshopper posing by the window and a hummingbird (or bug?). 

Back to Lehman Cave for our tour. Nice t-shirts in the gift shop, we get "May the Forest Be With You" for grandson William and me.

Before entering the cave there’s White Nose Syndrome screening to prevent spread of a disease fatal to bats  ̶  we're asked if shoes or other apparel have been worn in another cave. Then Ranger Luke takes over. A wonderful guide and a fabulous very "decorated" cave with mineral deposits still ongoing. We begin by turning out all lights to experience "total darkness." Luke tells the history & geology of the cave, and the importance of protecting it and its inhabitants, from bats to tiny pseudoscorpions. He also has a litany of "government-issued Dad jokes" for rangers to use; but Marjorie beats him to the punchline with "stalagmites, stalactites  ̶  and mightytites." 

 Our 90-minute 0.6-mile tour includes the Gothic Palace, Music Room, Lodge Room, Inscription Room (where early graffiti can now be considered "historic inscriptions," says Ranger Luke), and Grand Palace, plus the famous Parachute Shield formation. 

We exit the 50° cave to 95 outside at 11:00. SLC forecast to be 101 today! But don't worry, storms tomorrow are forecast to "cool down" southern Utah to only 91.

While Marjorie "chills" in our room I get gas ($3.25/gallon) near the Inn, just 2 stand-alone self-serve pumps, no station or people, provided as a nice service by the large ranch bordering town. It's another day of beautiful blue sky & puffy white clouds so I drive around for photo ops. 

Pretty cliffs and a creek, then face-to-face with a deer. Along a fence line with scarecrows and other decorations. Back to the Lehman VC to watch videos Marjorie had enjoyed. More time on the nature trail: beautiful panoramas, pretty vegetation like cliffrose and Mormon tea. 

Back to the Inn. Haven't seen any news in a while; we turn on the TV to find shootings at a Walmart and a garlic festival. Sigh. Better to go to Kerouac's for dinner, greeted by the owner: "Welcome back! How was your day?" Then she goes about killing flies with her hand-held bug-zapper shaped like a small tennis racket.

Back to Lehman Cave VC for the free astronomy program. A ranger asks us to fill out a survey about our experiences today. I tell him I'm a survey pro; he doesn't seem impressed. Sunset colors play across the valley and mountains. It’s partly cloudy but clearing, and no moon. This area has the darkest night sky in the contiguous US. Ranger Tim: "carpe noctem." After a presentation on meteors it's dark enough to see Jupiter, Big Dipper, Northern Cross, the cloudy Milky Way and . . . Wow, so many stars!! [Back home I find a “star chart” for this location & date.] Plus the international space station crossing the sky, a couple of meteor trails and satellites. We line up at 3 telescopes to get views of Jupiter & Saturn, a nebula, and a galaxy. Into the car to drive down to the Inn and what's on the radio?: "Ground Control to Major Tom"! Then a text message: "William has landed" ˗ grandson William has completed his first solo flight, from JFK to Reno.

Wednesday, July 31: "The Friendly Lonely Road" 

 

There doesn't seem to be much to Baker. But an early stroll reveals more than meets the eye: Baker School, Snake Valley FD and Community Center, Baker Community Church, pretty yard sculptures by an old RR dining car. A little bird flies in & out of a nest outside our room.

         

Today begins our journey across Nevada. Rt. 50 runs 3200 miles coast to coast, but Life magazine in 1986 dubbed the 287-mile stretch thru Nevada the “Loneliest Road in America,” with no attractions or points of interest and drivers needing “survival skills.” AAA warned “all motorists not to drive there." But this is now a tourism theme, with a "Survival Guide" you can get stamped along the way. Nonetheless we will bear in mind the road is not heavily populated with services  ̶  “it is likely you will see more mountain peaks than cars.” The road mostly follows the old Lincoln Highway, part of the 1^st transcontinental highway in the US, a route used by the Pony Express and many towns were originally PE stations. It goes thru high desert and over 17 mountain passes.

A muffin & scone from Kerouac's as initial sustenance. Partly cloudy & cool (73), listening to "Classical Vinyl" on the car's Sirius radio. Thru high desert panoramas, past a big wind farm and over the highest point, 7,729’ at Connors Pass, 

to Ely, where our GPS finds the All-Aboard Cafe and Inn for breakfast. We chat with a friendly couple who stayed here last night. 

The Nevada Northern Railway Museum is below the Cafe, a Nat'l Historic Landmark from the 1^st transcontinental RR, and a 90-minute 14-mile roundtrip excursion on the "Ghost Train of Old Ely" leaves soon. So it’s "All aboard!" sitting by friendly couples from UT & MI (maybe this road isn't so lonely after all). 

Thru copper mining areas (Kennicot Keystone mine), beautiful sagebrush and other vegetation, hills and rocky cliffs, 2 tunnels, 

even a ghost town set up, boothill cemetery with clever epitaphs (e.g., “Here Lies Les Moor, Shot with a 44, No Les, No Moor”). 

Back to the station, offices left as they were 36 years ago. 

And there's even more in Ely! A walking tour downtown of building murals & sculptures. A very small high school seems to fit into one building on the main street. 

Economy Drug and Old-Fashioned Fountain with a 1950s-style soda fountain and more friendly staff  ̶  just the spot to relax with a root beer float & chocolate soda! One more item of local history: While traveling on Rt. 50 Stephen King learned of a local story based near Ely that he worked it into one of his novels, Desperation.

On our way again. Slowed a bit by construction and traveling behind a "pilot car" ("Follow Me") for a couple of miles. More "basin" driving: long straight desert stretches, mountain passes and summits of 7,000', one panoramic view after another, little traffic. Another gorgeous afternoon of beautiful blue sky and white clouds. Temps up to 88-92, depending on elevation. Into Eureka, the self-described "Friendliest Town on the Loneliest Road." Pretty Opera House & Courthouse from 1879. Like many towns along this highway, Eureka was once a mining boomtown, surrounded in the mid-19th C by 50 mines (gold, silver, and more). Now it's a gas ($3.53/gallon) & coffee stop.

Thru the Toiyabe Mtns, up and over Austin Summit, down to tonight’s destination (208 miles from Baker): Austin, overlooking the Reese River valley. 

3 pretty churches here built 1866-1878 when this was a "roaring silver camp." Now a "living ghost town," population down from 10,000 in the 1860s to 300 now.Our Cozy Mountain Motel looks to be a pretty basic but “cozy” spot. At nearby Toiyabe Cafe we get take-out sandwiches for later (when apparently nothing will be open). 

A scenic cemetery at the edge of town on the National Register of Historic Places. 

Pretty views in the valley as the sun goes down. Walking to get some cappuccino at a nearby gas station I almost collide with a deer. News report all-time high of 105 in Paris and 101 in London today. But we're headed to Incline Village on the shores of Lake Tahoe tomorrow: forecast is high 80, low 46. Sounds delightful!

Thursday. August 1: "A Whole Lot of Quiet"

Another beautiful AM, about 70. Back to the friendly Toiyabe Cafe for breakfast. On the road, mile after mile of desolate beauty. Clouds and sun make shadow patterns on the hills and across the valley. And, Marjorie notes, "a whole lot of quiet." We make good time on these roads - little traffic, up to 70 speed limit. Past Cold Springs with nearby Pony Express, Transcontinental Telegraph, and Overland Stage Stations. 

A colorful cottonwood "shoe tree" near Middlegate. According to legend this was begun by a young man whose bride-to-be was having 2^nd thoughts, so he threw her shoes in the tree. The original was cut down by vandals, but this may be the biggest shoe tree in the world.

East of Fallon we pass a puzzling area: water or sand or mud? Dixie Valley contains a US Navy Electronic Warfare Range, an on-line search suggests this may be a dry lake for low-level flight operations. Nearby Sand Mountain, a 2-mile long, 600' high "dune," is “one of the biggest sand boxes you’ll ever find.”  Then past Salt Wells Basin. A very different terrain than the high desert we've driven thru. 

Into Paiute/Shoshone Fox Peak Station for gas, a number of casinos along the road. Past deep blue Lahontan Reservoir, skirting Carson City, up over the mountains to beautiful clear blue Lake Tahoe. 

Last summer we played peek-a-boo with the lake as smoke from wildfires drifted in and out; looks like now we’ll have the pristine views Lake Tahoe is known for. But still slowed by road work up the east shore road . . . and a swarm of large flying insects! What are they?

To Skylake with Matt in Incline Village NV (202 miles from Austin) at the north end of the lake. Grandson William already here, daughter-in-lawAnthea & grandson Miles arrive Sat. night. 

Matt shares this with another percussionist, Steven White, from the Metropolitan Opera Orchestra and a fellow Manhattan School of Music grad (as is the timpanist, Aaron McDonald). A sizable 2-story condo  ̶  3 bedrooms, 2 full and 1 ½-bath, living room & den, breakfast nook, deck with table/chairs/grill, full kitchen  ̶  surrounded by tall pines.

Lunch with Matt & William, then we scatter: Matt to rehearsal (the festival, in its 8^th season, is on the nearby Sierra Nevada College campus), William to play soccer near there, Marjorie to a farmers market at the library, me to my favorite overlook view of the lake and then to the library to check e-mail. Marjorie finds some wonderful produce at the market, then we head to Raley's grocery (a nice place we remember from last year) for other supplies. But we'll want to avoid getting gas here: $4.19/gallon! 

Down the west shore road to mini-golf; Steven wins, but Grandma & Grandpa both have holes-in-one. Susie Scoops ice cream to cap off another fine day!

Friday, August 2: “A Day in Paradise”

Up at 6 as the sun is rising, clear and 50. I drive down the east shore a bit, 

then along Lakeshore Blvd with opulent homes & lovely walking trail, and up to my favorite Mt. Rose overlook. 

A 10-minute walk after breakfast down to the lake and along the walking trail. It's so idyllic here: fresh air, sunlight glistening off towering pines! Perusing Tahoe Quarterly: "camp home" for a mere $3-7 million, modern lakehouse for $40 million, or rent a lakefront summerhouse that sleeps 12 for $1650/night. Marjorie is pondering a family reunion here next year, but at a more reasonable price.

A perfect summer day: bright sunshine, about 80. We go with William to Tahoe Science Center on campus. An interesting 3-D movie about the geology & history of the lake: glaciers, earthquakes, and fault lines. Then a rendezvous with friends from last year, Noel & Dick. They suggest an answer to the “Mystery of the Swarm” yesterday: grasshoppers. Marjorie and Noel are kindred spirits who share many interests and have become close friends; Noel brings a beautiful handbag she made for Marjorie.

William and I go to the library, then the condo where Matt & Steven have started a new puzzle (apparently a favorite pursuit of the 3 “boys”). 

William & I return to campus for dinner of burritos from local favorite T’s. Joined by Noel & Dick’s son Steven & wife Stephanie (Production Managers for the festival) and their adorable little daughter Claire (aka “Boo”), who seems quite taken with William. 

Exploring the campus I come upon pretty North Lake Tahoe Demonstration Garden. 

Matt said tonight’s concert is not so interesting, and he’s not playing much, so Marjorie, William, and I go back to the condo and down to the lake to watch the sunset. William enjoys the beach, but skipping stones doesn’t work so well on the lake.

Saturday, August 3: “Meadows and Music” 

          Another gorgeous AM, sunny & cool, coffee on the deck. So relaxing! Matt & Steven go to rehearsal. William plays his interactive game with a long-distance friend. I stroll the neighborhood. We’re surrounded by clusters of condos amid pine forest coming up from the lake, plus beautiful homes along Lakeshore Blvd. I return to find Marjorie having adventures with a large complex washing machine: “Smart Drum with Direct Drive Technology.”

To Raley’s for dinner supplies. Enticed by colorful roadside flowers nearby, we find High Sierra Gardens nursery spreading out from the road. Beautiful plantings and friendly chatty staff. 

Matt returns for lunch, we all go up Mt. Rose Hwy to hike “Meadows” nature trails. Mountain, forest, and wetland views, little flowers & butterflies, pretty streams. 

Some confusion about taking different trails, but we come together at the end. I take Matt & William to Sand Harbor Beach, but the parking lot is “full” (tho we can see spaces!) and nearby turnouts also full. I’m able to drop them off and enjoy incredible blue water views form the road  ̶  but no place to pull over for photos! They get in some swimming and can take a shuttle bus back close to near the condo. 

          Tonight’s concert, “A Night at the Opera,” features a wonderful soprano, Jennifer Rowley! She brings down the house with an encore of “You’ll Never Walk Alone” from Carousel. The conductor’s wife provides informative & humorous intros for each piece. Time afterward with Noel & Dick, also Aaron and family. Matt to Reno to pick up Anthea and Miles after their flight from JFK.

Sunday, August 4: “On the Road Again”

          Another pretty AM, cool & mostly sunny, 70s headed to 80s later. A houseful last night, boys sleeping on couches. We chat with Miles about his summer camp at Manhattan School of Music. A quick good-bye to Matt & Anthea and on the road. Today was going to be our longest drive: nearly 600 miles to Salem OR for another long-overdue visit with niece Annie, hubbie Garrick, and daughters Lillian, & Cora; haven’t seen them since a trip out in 2013. But we decided to break it up with an overnight along the way. Up Mt. Rose Hwy for a last lake view. 

Past Reno with its high-rise casinos. A stop for gas and at another Raley’s for coffee & snacks; their motto: “Helping Healthy Happen.” More high desert & mountain scenery; on some long stretches signs advise “Turn on Headlights,” I suppose to be seen better amid the desert mirages. A muddy lake at Bordertown, then thru an inspection stop crossing into California: “Any fruit?”

A variety of terrain: green farmland, arid ranches, valleys between hills, some burned out areas, fields with large stacks of hay bales. Past big Honey Lake. Another lonely road, another sign that “No Services Next X Miles,” tho a couple of “rest areas.” Past Likely, population 98. 

Some time in Alturas, near Modoc Wildlife Refuge. A pretty town: county courthouse with copper roof, some building murals, 

Hotel Niles Coffee Company for some refreshment. Past long Goose Lake as we cross from California into Oregon. Lots of pretty farmland, cows & horses.

        

  To Lakeview (260 miles from Lake Tahoe), billed as “Oregon’s Tallest Town” at 4800’ above sea level. After settling in at Lakeview Lodge out for a drive: a distant view of Abert Rim, the largest exposed geological fault in North America, rising 2500’ above the valley and Lake Abert, Oregon’s only saltwater lake. The Rim is a popular hang-gliding launch spot (tho not on our agenda!), hence Lakeview also dubs itself the “Hang Gliding Capital of the West.” 

A look at the spot for the state’s only geyser, “Old Perpetual,” but doesn’t seem to be working now. A stop for gas  ̶  they pump it for you (and even clean the windshield) in Oregon! 

Dinner at Jerry’s, a good hometown spot. A pretty evening drive: lovely town, lots of cows, horses, goats in surrounding fields. Plenty of cowboy imagery. A treat: sundaes from Safeway.

Monday, August 5: “No Hens Allowed”

    

Neither of us slept well, so we skip the motel breakfast for an early 6:30 start on the 300-mile drive to Salem. A cool AM, mid-50s. We’ll cut across Oregon from SW to NE, starting  on the Outback Scenic Highway, so named because the terrain resembles Australia’s Outback. More dry high desert interspersed with green farmland and stacks of hay bales. Around Paisley and the ZX Ranch, one of the largest U.S. cattle ranches. A lake (or is it a mirage?) and large dry flats. 

Still seeking breakfast at 8, we share a cookie. Another lonely road! Into forested areas, snow-capped mountains in the distance; this seems more like Oregon. 

Then an oasis!: Norma’s Red Rooster Restaurant in La Pine. Decorated with many roosters (but no hens). The breakfast and country ambience are well worth the wait. By Bend and Sisters (near the Three Sisters volcanoes), a busy place with lots of campers. Thru thick forest, over mountains, by pretty streams & dammed lakes.

        To Salem at 1:00, greeted by Annie, Lillian, & Cora (going into 4^th & 2^nd grades); greeted later by Norman the cat. Comfy accommodations in the being-remodeled basement (including earthquake reinforcement). Lunch on the deck. Marjorie gives the girls books she brought. They perform song-and-dance routines learned at summer camps.

Into town and Riverfront Park on the Willamette River. Beautiful Minto Island Bridge and colorful globe. One of many projects Annie has been involved with in her position of economic and business development with the city. She points out projects as we drive around the city during our stay. Many beautifully landscaped yards. Into an all-purpose Fred Meyer store (we remember these from our Alaska trip) for a few things. 

Back home, Annie points out a “Little Free Library” Garrick constructed across the way, complete with solar lighting!

          Garrick meets us after he’s back from work (with a developer of affordable housing  ̶  I share some of my experiences with senior housing) for an excellent Mexican dinner at La Margarita. 

Strolling after dinner thru downtown with many pretty buildings: old theaters and office buildings, county courthouse and state capitol, Methodist church, “Bubbles and Sweets” candy shop, murals. But what’s with the Bearscat Café? Would you eat there? 

Tuesday, August 6: “Chillaxing”

          Another lovely AM. I take an early walk thru nearby City View Cemetery, past pretty yards in the neighborhood. 

Breakfast with Annie chatting about her urban renewal efforts here. Marjorie makes “snow” out of shaving cream & baking soda with Lillian & Core and they do some puzzles. 

We all head downtown, Annie to a staff meeting, the rest of us to wander. Interesting stores: Marjorie finds colorful art paper, the girls & I look around Book Bin, Marjorie finds nice clothing in Top Drawer (and Lillian & Core pick out some funky earrings and a tiny giraffe, whose name Cora keeps changing during the day!). Other pretty buildings and views. 

Dolce Mama’s for an ice cream break.

A stop on the way home at the Children’s Museum (which we visited in 2013) by the river to pick up pottery Cora had made. 

Back home, Marjorie does “zentangles” art with Annie and the girls. Then up the street to a neighborhood party. An annual affair, not, I must confess, in our honor. Good pot luck food and friendly folk. A nice “chillaxing” (as the girls would say) day at the end of our trip.  

Wednesday August 7: “Not the Loneliest Road”

                

        Cloudy for our last AM. One last outing to Willamette Heritage Center at the Mill, combining an artist collective and shops with 19^th C woolen mill and Methodist mission. A guitar/banjo duo playing. No time for a tour, but I enjoy looking around the site and Marjorie loves the shops, wants to come back! More driving around, past the Governor’s Mansion, more beautiful lush yards.

         

A farewell photo of Lillian & Cora, then on our way at 2:00 for the 50-mile drive to Portland airport. Past “World Famous Top Shelf Cannabis.”  What’s this?: the last 20 miles via interstate is bumper-to-bumper! GPS keeps chiming in: “X minutes delay added.” Our gas is getting low, so a stop to fill up; guy at the pump says this is just typical rush hour. No wonder Annie said Salem doesn’t want to become “another Portland.” Finally after 2 hours to Thrifty to return the car, which has served us well for a total of 1,678 miles.

          Annie said Portland airport is nice, and Travel and Leisure magazine has rated it the best in the US. There’s even lots here without having to go thru security: Powell’s Books, The Real Mother Goose Gallery, a store of Oregon products, FoodCartsPDX. And all with “street pricing.” 

I spot a lifelike “mirage” painted at the end of the concourse to show a planned extension.  A pianist plays in nearby concourse, part of PDXMusic. We board with many black-shirted men from Andretti Autosports racing team. A short flight (1:30), a bit early to San Francisco at 9:50. But our next plane is delayed arriving! Will we get to Chicago in time for our connection to Albany?

Thursday, August 8: “All’s Well That Ends Well”

          Our scheduled 2+-hour layover becomes 4½; and no Lounge passes! We make some use of the time. I peruse an exhibit along the concourse of “Modern Consumer: 1950s Products and Style”: Mr. Wizard, Velveeta, Howdy Doody, fallout shelter supplies, Brownie cameras, classic cars. A trip down memory lane! Marjorie catches up on e-mails. 

Our plane arrives, a quick turn-around, depart SFO 2:40am for our “red-eye” to Chicago, Economy Plus seats again. Arrive Chicago at 8:00, a nice sunny AM. We hustle thru the tunnel from Concourse B to C, to our connection with time to spare. I sit next to a couple whose grandson is singing with Glimmerglass Opera in Cooperstown. Arrive Albany a bit early before noon; 85 & partly cloudy. Whew!: 19 hours of travel  ̶  driving, flying, waiting  ̶  to reach home. I wait for our bags (they made it!), Marjorie gets our car, a short drive. Glad to be home!

A bit longer than our usual travels, lots of driving. But a wonderful trip! Awe-inspiring even if desolate vistas, beautiful gardens, interesting historical and geological features, good times with family & friends. Good weather, comfortable lodging, and some good eats.