Danube Cruise

Waltzing Along the Danube

June 2019

          Another Viking River Cruise? We’ve already done 4 together, plus Marjorie did a “Christmas Markets” Rhine cruise with her sister Mary and I did a “Midnight Sun” ocean cruise to Scotland and Norway (above the Arctic Circle!) with my brother Doug & family. But it seems only fitting to add the Danube to our list of European rivers that includes the Rhine, Seine, Saone, and Rhone; at 1775 miles, the Danube is the longest European River after the Volga, flowing thru 10 countries. And it’s always so nice to tour in a floating hotel with gourmet restaurant! Mary & hubbie Jeff have done the Danube, advising that too little water in late summer or fall might turn cruising into a bus tour. With additional advice and assistance from friendly Viking staffer Sonya, we booked the “Danube Waltz” trip for early summer. As usual, a variety of choices for included and optional tours; we’ll do some things together and others separately. 

As I put together this journal from my voice-recorder mutterings and scribblings, I think back to an exhibit in March at Emma Willard School: “Transient’s Voice” by Shima Iuchi, diary pages combining her elegant script with lovely drawings from her travels. I am humbled, but carry on nonetheless.

  
      

Sat., June 8: “Bon Voyage!” 

          A nice stretch of weather at home after a rainy Spring, sunny up to 80; forecast similar for Budapest. We leave the yard & garden in good shape for a drive to Queens, only 10 minutes after my 9:00 goal; within the "margin of error" says Marjorie. Driving down she reads friend Warren's memoir about his pursuit of a radio career, "I'll Have To Ask My Mother," on Kindle and gets better acquainted with new GPS "Missy." A quick stop in Jackson Heights (Queens) and a surprise: the door is answered by visiting "other grandpa" Anthea's Dad Brian (aka “GrandDad”). Hugs with grandsons William & Miles, then Matt is our uber to JFK, saving us the usual parking costs so he can use our car to begin his residence as percussionist for the “Mostly Modern Festival” at Skidmore while we’re away. TSA Pre-Check for both of us (not just Marjorie like last time), but it's not crowded anyway.

A snack before boarding, overlooking our Lufthansa plane and skyline in the distance. What seems (to us old folks) a very young crew walks thru the gate. Onto the plane, our Premium Economy seats seem worth it: roomier 2 seats, more legroom, refreshing juice before takeoff. Away from the gate on time at 4:10pm, but we taxi a while behind a colorful variety of 17 planes. Not to worry, our pilot says this is factored into the flight time. Airport & skyline view at takeoff.

We’re leaving behind some unfinished stories  ̶  increasing calls to impeach Trump, local interest in the salacious trial of Keith Reniere for sex slavery and other offenses in cult-like NXIVM  ̶  don’t think we’ll miss that! But there’s a plethora of sports too: NBA & NHL finals, Women’s World Cup soccer and US Open golf, French Open tennis, and, of course, baseball. Oh well, cruisin’ seems a fair trade, and I’ll probably catch some sports news along the way. And my own golf game may benefit from a break.

   

Sun., June 9: “Welcome to Budapest” 

          The pilot was right: after sunrise from the plane we're a bit early into Frankfurt at 6am. A long schlep past an open view of "Traditional Bakery" and a piano inviting "competent" players to use it. A bus to the plane, we're back in our usual economy seats now. On time to Budapest at 10:45, views of the Danube coming in. This is our 2^nd visit to Budapest (a 2002 Vienna-Prague-Budapest Trafalgar bus tour was our 1^st “escorted” experience), but this will give us more time here. A lovely day, sunny mid-80s. Many Viking staff here to meet folks for several ships. We meet our ship's Program Director Tim, a Brit who lives in Orlando.

A 30-minute bus ride to our ship, docked along the Danube with many others (from Viking, Gate1, Crystal, etc.) 2-3 abreast. Stateroom's not ready, but a buffet lunch makes for a good start!

Then into our room, the usual setup of 2 twin beds, quite ample closet and drawer space, half windows at water level, and a bathroom that presents some spatial challenges plus a “growling” drain that reminds us of Harry Potter’s Moaning Myrtle; the plumbing seems to work on a vacuum system, efficient but noisy. TV has some news & other channels (e.g., CNN & BBC), quite an array of movies, Viking-sponsored shows Downton Abbey and Vikings, music selections, on-board information, etc.

Our ship, Viking Legend, built in 2011,  accommodates 185 passengers. As usual, our stateroom (#121) is on the lowest (“Main”) deck with half-windows at water level; plenty comfy, and we decided long ago that we don’t need to pay extra just for larger windows ˗ and we kind of like the “ducks-eye” (literally) view. 

Public spaces include Restaurant (of course!), Observation Lounge, Aquavit Terrace, Atrium, Library, and Sun Deck (no putting green, but a large chess set); with “streamlined Scandinavian interiors.” 

Some background on VRC: Norwegian Torstein Hagen, now 76, founded Viking in 1997 with 4 small river ships from Russia, adding ocean ships via a deal in 2012 with an Italian shipbuilder. The fleet has now grown to 78 ships with 9,000 staterooms. [Info derived from Forbes article by Mary & Jeff’s niece Lauren Debtor. We shared it with Viking staffer Lorraine Poulin, who responded “We love him around here.”]

A bit of orientation: The territory of modern Hungary has been inhabited by many peoples: Celts, Romans, Germanic tribes, Huns, West Slavs, Avars. The collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire after WWI set its current borders. Hungary left the Soviet Union via its 1956 revolution, became a democratic parliamentary republic in 1989, and joined the European Union in 2004 (but their currency is still the forint = $.0035). Budapest, Hungary's capital, straddles the banks of the Danube, traditional hillside Buda on one side, modern Pest on the other, the dramatic Chain Bridge uniting them.

I head to a Welcome Walk, but it's just me and guide Vivian. We agree to rendezvous on tomorrow's tour, then I stroll on my own. Excellent photo ops to start the trip: pretty buildings & bridges, panoramic views from out on one bridge.

Back to the ship for wine & cheese tasting in the Lounge, meeting friendly couple Kim & his wife Mirza from Tampa. After our 1st daily "port talk" briefing by energetic Tim, off to our 1st dinner. The dinner menus have 3 courses grouped into some basic every-night options (e.g., strip steak), regional specialties, and other chef creations varying from night to night. Wine is plentiful at both dinner & lunch. I opt to start with tonight's regional specialties: Hungarian cold cuts, chicken papriska, and somloi galuska (Hungarian trifle). Later I enjoy an evening stroll to view the lighted buildings & bridges.

Mon., June 10: “Horses and Baths”  

Happy Pentacost! We're warned it's a national holiday, so some stores closed (really, closed on a holiday?). A lovely AM headed for a sunny hi-80s day. I'm out at 6:30, lots of "Good morning, sir" from staff. People walking thru from other ships docked beside us.

In the news: ongoing questions about Trump’s tariffs on Mexico; a helicopter crashed on top of a Manhattan building. I can use the lobby computer to check e-mail, Facebook, etc. A quirky keyboard: shift+2 to get @, z=y. After using this “foreign” computer, I later I undergo a Facebook id check, needing to correctly match photos & names for 5 Facebook friends. 1st breakfast buffet of breads, cheeses, fruit, cereal, eggs (or can order from a menu).

We remember to take our "whispers" for listening to guides for our 1st included tour "Panoramic Budapest," combining as most do coach and walking. By chance we're placed with Vivian, who greets Marjorie: "You must be da vife." First a language lesson: it's Budapeshed! Buda is hilly and Pest is flat. We drive around the city as Vivian narrates and points to key sights: an exhibition & shopping center, university, the Great Market Hall, "Hungarian Eye" ferris wheel, the Opera House modeled after Vienna's. St. Stephen's Basilica, named for the 1st king of Hungary who had a rather bloody approach to Christian conversion. Along Andrássy ut, the Rodeo Drive of Budapest. The House of Terror, former headquarters of Nazi & Communist secret police, now a memorial to their victims. Heroes Square, with striking statues created in 1896 to celebrate arrival of Magyar tribes in 896.

Past large City Park (Városliget) with lake, zoo, circus, amusement park, and the most expensive restaurant & hotel in the country. Thru the Jewish Quarter with "Tree of Life" Holocaust memorial, and a cemetery with mass graves. Dohány Synagogue is the 2nd-largest in the world (after one in NYC). Vivian intersperses information about Hungary: Agriculture is still 50% of the economy. Hungarian is a difficult language and Hungarians often are able to learn several languages, so there are many IT service desks here. Turkish invaders brought paprika, a common spice here.

More views of the city as we continue. 

 

Driving along the river, Vivian points out the Liberation Statue (jokingly called "beer opener lady") atop Gellert Hill, commemorating liberation by the Soviet Union at the end of WWII, and famous lions at Chain Bridge.     

Then up to the Castle District. Into Matthias Church, named for Hungary's "most beloved medieval king." Walking around with so many other tour groups, including a number from other Viking ships!

Into Matthias Church, named for Hungary's "most beloved medieval king."  

 

Panoramic views from Fisherman's Bastion.

Vivian cautions "no free pees," but use restrooms where you get buy souvenirs or food. We take that advice in a pretty self-serve place. Some final language lessons: viszlát (goodbye) and koszonom (thankyou). Back to the ship for lunch with a friendly couple from Yorkshire England, Hazel and Ken (last name is Downton . . . who’s watching the Abbey?).

Marjorie and I split up on a steamy PM for our first optional excursions. I grab a whisper & water bottle to head off with guide Agnes for "Hungarian Horsemen." Hungarians take great pride in the role of horses in their history, helping win battles and aiding in migration, settlement, and farming, and have elevated horsemanship to an art form. I got to ride a horse in the Argentine Pampas (well, “ride” overstates my role), but don’t expect that here. On the way out of town some better views of the park and other sights than yesterday, then Agnes invites us to take a little nap.  

A 45-minute drive NE to Domonyvölgy and Lázár Equestrian Park, operated by brothers William & Zoltan. Greeted with palinka, apple or plum brandy dating to the 14^th C (we had grappa, the grape version, in Italy); Agnes advises to drink slowly to avoid a "nuclear explosion," and pastry is a "soft pillow" for the stomach. Pretty grounds, acacia trees, a robotic lawnmower.

Our stay begins with a show of various horsemanship. Single riders using whips, arrows, and spears. Another riding the haunches of 2 horses while controlling 5! A beautiful exhibit of dressage. Quite wild carriage drivers.  

We go on a more sedate carriage ride around the grounds. A 13-year-old boy on our ship rides up front next to the driver, who then puts his hat on the boy and hands him the reins; big smile! [So how is teenager Peyton cruising when Viking has an "adults only" policy? His grandparents booked the trip before the new policy, so he was "grandfathered" in. Everyone was very impressed with him, and enjoyed his enjoyment.]

We see some distinctive Hungarian animals: Racka sheep with twisted horns, Mangalica long-haired pigs, Puli sheep dogs. And horses in the stable, including a Lipizzaner. 

A swing thru a museum: the brothers have won many trophies and ribbons as carriage drivers, one room is filled all 4 walls and under the floor with their awards.  

    A scenic drive back to the ship. City Park is very busy as we pass thru. Past Parliament, the 3^rd largest in the world. The dome here and at St. Stephen's are 96m, reflected Hungary's 896 origin. The building has 24 towers and is lined with 90 statues of Hungarian heroes. 

A sad sight: May 29^th a sister Viking ship collided with and sank a tourist boat here at the foot of Margit Bridge; last we heard 11 dead, 17 still missing. There are cranes here now (and lots of people on the shore taking it in) to raise up the ship tomorrow (when they find a number of the missing). The river is relatively high, fast-flowing, and murky (not the “blue” Danube) now, tho less than earlier when there had been a lot of rain.

Marjorie opted for "Budapest Thermal Bath" to “soak up restorative powers of Budapest’s nourishing spas.” She finds a bag awaiting her in our stateroom with bathrobe, towel, & slippers. A drive to St. Lukács; dating to 12th C monastery baths, a spa hotel built in the 1880s. Everyone gets a tiny “cabin” dressing room for changing and storing valuables, with coded wristband to open the door; one fellow “bather” gets locked in and has to be rescued by his wife. All the pools, saunas, and steam rooms are available, but massages and mud or aroma treatments are extra. Marjorie buddies up with Joy, they go from “too hot” and “too cold” to “just  right" ˗ sort of like Goldilocks. Beautiful grounds with pretty courtyards & palm trees. 

         

Reunited for a welcome toast with the Capt. and other senior officers (chef, program director, hotel and housekeeping managers). Then dinner with Kim & Mirza, Joy, Hazel & Ken, and another British couple. Two ships outside of us leave and we set sail as the sun sets. I go up on the upper deck for a while, nice breeze and views. Marjorie watches a “Majority Rules” game on the Lounge, then up top for the views.

Tues., June 11: “Beer, Potatoes, and Ice Hockey” 

I’m up before 5 to catch the sunrise, joined up top by Mirza and a couple of other passengers. Who’d have thought: floating along the Danube as the sun rises! Another river cruise passes (they’re everywhere!), a lineup of barges, cranes & steeples along the shore. 

Safety drill after breakfast, into life vests in our staterooms and up to our muster locations. Tim says we set a new record: 5 minutes, 8 seconds. Video in the Lounge about the wheelhouse, then an in-person visit  ̶  lots of buttons, readouts, etc. Sunny, headed to the upper 80s, river moving at a good clip as we head upstream. In the news: now Trump is threatening China with tariffs. 

 Thru our 1^st & biggest lock (3^rd biggest on the river) with a hydroelectric dam. Past flat countryside, the wide river raised up by levees. Cruising all AM into early PM  ̶  a parasailer, pretty cottages, bridge construction, but not the wind turbines we’ve seen on other rivers. Lunch with M’s bath-buddy Joy, I get a Monte Cristo sandwich from the menu plus the pasta/salad bar. One of the servers has taken to cheerily greeting me every day with “Hello, Sir Russ.” Marjorie reads children’s book From the Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler (see later for why) and makes little Christmas tree ornaments for upcoming craft fairs. We dock at Bratislava, Slovak Republic, next to the Amadeus Queen; we’ll have to walk thru to shore. The Capt. maneuvers into position to a round of applause.

Bratislava is filled with Hapsburg-era baroque palaces and leafy squares. The Little Carpathians rise steeply in the north and a hrad (castle) perches 300’ above the Danube. Bratislava is the only national capital bordering 2 other countries (Austria and Hungary). Slovak Republic became an independent state in 1993 after the peaceful dissolution of Czechoslovakia (aka the “Velvet Divorce”), reminding us of last summer’s visit to a jigsaw puzzle of countries along the Adriatic that had come from the dissolution of Yugoslavia. SR joined the EU in 2004. The country combines a market economy with comprehensive services, including universal health care, free education, and one of the longest paid parental leaves. An interesting factoid: Slovakia is the world's largest per-capita car producer, representing 43% of its industrial output from 4 auto plants (Volkswagen, Peugeot, Kia, and Jaguar).

 We’ve opted for separate included tours. I get a “hello” (dobrý deň or ahoj) from guide Jana for my “Panoramic Bratislava” tour. We drive via Grassalkovich Palace (now the presidential home for their 1^st female president) and Freedom Square, with narration on politics, economy, etc. A view of New Bridge with rotating “UFO” restaurant.  Up to Bratislava Castle, past a cemetery & memorial to Soviet soldiers who battled the Nazis. Statue of Liberty and flags front the Parliament building. 

Views over the city and surrounding plains and Carpathian hills. Jana has very personal memories of the transition from Communists to democracy, including her emotional 1^st time crossing the nearby Austrian border. Other info about Slavic tribes and Maria Christina, the “favorite daughter” (and only one allowed to marry for love) of Maria Theresa of the Habsburgs. Jana says this is “a country of beer, potatoes, and ice hockey.” It’s also the Silicon Valley of Europe, with IBM, Microsoft, etc.

Down to the Old Town (Staré Mesto) and the main square Hlavné námestie. 

So much to see, keep looking up and all around!: pretty streets, shops & signs, even cannonballs stuck in building facades. 

Michael’s Gate, one of few surviving medieval gateways, with lovers’ locks along railings. Zwinger Kebab, the narrowest house in the country. A museum/restaurant where you can use the exhibits while dining. Beautiful opera house. Kaffee Mayer coffeehouse. We end with a pretty park along the river. A wonderful city!

Marjorie’s “Bratislava Walking Tour” doesn’t cover as much ground, tho she pronounces her Jana the “best guide,” obviously very much in love with this city. Along the Amber Road, tracing the ancient trade route that linked Northern and Southern Europe. The Universitas Istropolitana, the first university in present-day Slovakia. In the main square, the Roland Fountain built in 1572 to provide water to the public, the Grassalkovich Palace, and the Archbishop’s Palace, home now to the mayor.  

Jana points out a modern day moat running along much of the mains square, built to remember when the city was actually surrounded by a moat.St. Martin’s Cathedral, where 11 kings & 8 queens were crowned; the coronation procession route partly marked by hundreds of little brass crowns embedded in the pavement. 

Into the Jewish Quarter, in the past one of the most important centers of Jewish life in Europe and still an active community. A silhouette of the former Neolog Synagogue etched on a black wall, its “footprint” in the pavement. Nearby Holocaust Memorial topped with a Star of David.

Like my tour, there are interesting sculptures & parks. 

Also like my tour, there’s the “Man at Work” sculpture emerging from a manhole; women can touch his head or nose for a life of happiness, to change husbands, or get pregnant (story depending on which guide you have!). Marjorie's Jana says the sign was put up after someone ran over the poor guy’s head.

Back on the ship for dinner. Later an onboard concert of Slovakian music.

Wed., June 12: “Emperors, Wine, and Music” 

          I’m up again for sunrise and thru another lock, chatting with firefighter Brian from near Chicago. Another mostly sunny day, up again to about 90. In the news: Trump & Biden trade insults in Iowa; a giant wolf head is unearthed in Siberia; U.S. women are criticized for celebrating too much during a 13-0 World Cup rout. 

We dock outside Vienna along a pretty promenade with nice plantings, by Reichbrűcke bridge. By a beautiful old church, modern buildings across the river. Including the aforementioned 2002 tour (when I think we stayed near the modern buildings we can see) and a 2011 choir tour, this is our 3^rd visit to Vienna!

          Off with guide Veronika on included “Panoramic Vienna” tour. Past Prater Park and 1897 ferris wheel (which we rode in 2002), and Stadtpark (twice the size of NYC’s Central Park) with iconic “Golden Boy” Strauss statue.. Narration about the Strauss family, Maria Theresa and her 16 children! Many sights to take in as we drive around the Ringstrasse encircling the inner city: Admiral Radetsky statue, art nouveau subway station, Staatsoper (State Opera House), Mozart statue, art museum, Rathaus. Look right, look left . . . Whew, can’t keep up! 

         After an hour on the bus it’s time to walk  ̶  be careful of bike paths! Hofburg Palace, the Habsburg’s winter palace (we’ve seen the Schönbrunn summer palace on previous trips): 59 acres, 19 courtyards, 2600 rooms! Thru Heroes Gate to Heroes Square. Past the Spanish Riding School. A fancy shopping street. Famous Demel’s, 1 of some 2700 coffeehouses in Vienna, The Viennese coffeehouse culture, celebrated as one of Europe’s “most democratic institutions,” is on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritages. 

Past Peterskirche and the Plague Column, thanking God for relief from the Black Plague that killed as many as 150,000 in 1679. 

Into St. Stephan’s Cathedral, one of 360 churches here. A “Sky of Stones” installation contains 1,332 stones suspended above the central aisle commemorating St. Stephan’s death by stoning. Not a very cheerful look. 

An area along the river where graffiti is legal, to spare other areas. It’s another city to look in every direction! And did you know snowglobes were invented here? Shops carry them in many sizes.

   

     After lunch Marjorie joins an added optional excursion with guide Malinia, taking the U-bahn to meet our chef at the Naschmarkt (farmers’ market). First a ride on the U-bahn, intriguing mirrors along tracks in the station display statistical information; e.g., the value of π, and tallies of weltberölkerung (world population) and verzehrte schnitzel in Wien seit Jänner (schnitzel consumed in Vienna since January).  

The market is a mini-Grand Bazaar: cheeses, dried fruit, spices, clothing, sampling from baklava to pickles. 

A stop outside to see art nouveau architecture, including the “Golden Cabbage” Secession Building. 

           I opt to explore the beautiful church by the ship: St. Francis of Assisi, aka Kaiserjubiläumskirche, consecrated in 1913 for the 50^th anniversary of Emperor Franz Joseph’s reign. It’s on Mexicoplatz, recognizing Mexico as the only country outside the Soviet Union to protest the Nazi Anschluss of Austria. The interior is another Wow! 

 


















 Then some relaxation watching “The Sound of Music” on our TV to get my Austrian on. An early dinner together, including wiener schnitzel, as a kayaker speeds by, before splitting up again for evening optional outings. 

          Marjorie heads to “Mozart & Strauss Concert” by the Vienna Residence Orchestra plus costumed singers and dancers. A historic venue: Schubert Hall in the 1913 Konzerthaus. Music includes Strauss waltzes and selections from Mozart’s The Magic Flute. A scenic drive back thru illuminated Vienna. She gives the music (and some humor) a good review.

       

  I’m in a smaller group of 9 with guide Reiner for a “Heurigen Evening.” Dating to a 1784 decree allowing vintners to serve their own wine without a special permit, this tradition celebrates this year’s wine in an atmosphere of gemȕtlichkeit (cheerful coziness). A 30-minute drive north to the Grinzing district, a “wine and folk culture theme park,” joined by Eva from Viking. On a pretty street lined with wine taverns, our host Wolff family have been here since 1609. 

 

First a walk up to the vineyard above the tavern, Reiner giving background on winemaking and local history. One cautionary tale: a local vintner who mixed wine with antifreeze and almost killed the industry (not to mention drinkers!). Then we settle around a table outside on a lovely evening, glasses for red and white wines in carafes and others brought for tasting, plus a mug if we wish to make spritzers. And plates of brettljause: cheeses, meats, breads, spreads. A couple of musicians strolling about. Yes, indeed, a cheerful cozy experience!

          Back to the ship, where tasty goulash soup is being served; like we need more food! Pianist/singer Robert provides lovely background. We set sail about 11, viewing the city lights.

Thurs., June 13: “Praying, Working, and Reading . . . and Wine” 

          A calmer, cooler AM heading toward another day of sun and 90s. In the news: Iran is accused of attacks on oil tankers; the St. Louis Blues win their 1^st Stanley Cup. Lovely views cruising along the river: other river cruises, church & vineyards as we come to Krems, Austria, surrounded by terraced vineyards of the Wachau valley. Docking at schiffsstationen along pretty Gregor Hradetzky Promenade. A Viking note: the lobby has a display of a series of books about the adventures of a dog, Finse of Dogton Abbey, written by the founder’s daughter Karine Hagen. We also notice that a passenger who had a very swollen insect bite now has a big bandage on her hand after hospital treatment. We order breakfast menu items: French toast and eggs Benedict.

          Some are off on a “motor-assisted” bike ride. We join guide Peter for included “Gottweig Abbey” tour; we could see the hilltop Abbey from the ship as we were crusing. A pretty drive up past vineyards & stations of the cross. Greeted with sparkling wine & apricot juice before a short movie. Panoramic views down into the valley. 

This Benediktinerstift, a World Heritage Site, was founded in 1083, has 42 monks; 15-17 live here, the rest in local parishes. We learn about the history, daily life (concentrating on prayer, work, and reading) , winemaking, efforts to preserve the natural environment. A beautiful church, with decorative interior details, 3200 modern pipes within a 300-year-old organ, an interesting crypt. 

The Benedictines (aka “Black Monks”) had a wing for royal guests, with a the 3-story Great Imperial Staircase topped by a fabulous ceiling fresco celebrating the Habsburgs (including Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI as Apollo). 

A stop to rescue a little bird trapped inside a window. Then more wine-tasting (do you sense a theme?), lovely gift shop, panoramic terrace views. Another wonderful spot!

          The afternoon is spent cruising the Wachau valley, a World Heritage Site of “riverine landscape.” We’re headed for low bridges, so wheelhouse & canopies on the Sun Deck are lowered, those of us up top have to kneel down as we pass under. Relaxing & fabulous views, rivaling the “Romantic Rhine.” Dȕrnstein especially is all-in-one: vineyards, castle, cliffs, monastery. More barges here than we’ve been seeing. Past Melk Abbey, which we toured with the choir in 2011. 

The Lounge has a strudel demo; and a piece is waiting for “Mister Russ.” We join our onboard besties  ̶  Kim & Mirza, Hazel & Ken, and Joy (pictured here)  ̶  for a Taste of Austria dinner buffet, staff in Austrian garb of lederhosen (men) & dirndl (women). Chef’s Tasting Platter includes pumpkin seed crushed chicken thigh, potato salad, bread dumpling, red cabbage, sauerbraten, and cheese-filled sausage. Just light fare! Plus an array of desserts. Afterward Marjorie checks out the galley; how do they do so much in such a small space? I go up top to watch scenery glide by, thru our 3^rd lock today.

Fri., Jun 14: “Happy UnBirthday” 

          Up early, “First again!” says the young woman staffer at the desk. A pretty AM, thru an industrial area, under another low bridge to dock at Linz, Austria. In the news: Toronto Raptors are the 1^st non-U.S. team to win the NBA title. A view of skyline steeples, sculptures & flowers along a riverfront park. An exhibition hall has a “beach” next to an outdoor bar. To disembark we have to cut thru a newer sister ship, Viking Vilhjalm.

          We join guide Lucie for included “Český Krumlov Walking Tour.” In the Czech Republic,  this World Heritage Site “fairy tale” Bohemian town was named one of the “greatest places on earth” by Traveler magazine. Lucie, a native of CK, says if we forgot our passports there are nice casinos at the border (tho we don’t even have to stop to cross the border). Starting our 1½-hour drive with info about Linz. Rebuilt after heavy WWII bombing targeting weapons factories. She recounts horrible times under the Nazis, then difficulties under Soviet Union & Communist rule, and shares stories of her time as a border officer. Thru 2 long tunnels: Götschka (4432m) & Neumarkt (1240m) . Pretty rolling hills. 

To the town on the Moldau (Vltava) River. A walk uphill thru pretty trees to Český Krumlov castle, Lucie still talking a mile a minute! The castle contains 40 buildings & palaces around 5 courtyards. 

Many painted facades with “secret” symbolism. Past Bear Moat, where bears have been kept since 1707, but not out today. Beautiful shops & flowers around the town. 

 Joined by Joy at Papa’s for pizza lunch overlooking the river, and “ahoj” to many canoeists. I partake in refreshing Pilsener Urquell beer.

          More wandering after lunch along the cobblestone streets, many pretty shops. [An aside: Hats off to our intrepid fellow passengers who soldier on thru Old World streets, up entrance steps, and around a ship with no elevator using canes, crutches, or walkers.] 

Down to the main square, námesti Svornosti, and fountain, bypassing the nearby Museum Tortury. Panoramic views of the countryside, town, and river with many canoeists & waders on another very warm day. The Marionette and Puppets and Wine Museums seem very Czech. 

A stop in an arts & crafts fair yields some wooden cookie stamps plus a chat with the craftsman for Marjorie. Past Jehovah’s Witnesses on the way back to the bus. The ride back allows us to chill listening to a variety of Czech music: their anthem, pieces by Smetana, some pop music.

           Today is our hottest day: ship’s reading says 39C (102F)! But I have a bit of energy left to walk into Linz, a 2009 European Capital of Culture. To the Hauptplatz, largest town square in Austria: beautiful flowers, colorful trolley & tourist train. Pretty churches: Stadtpfarrkirche (Church of the Assumption) and Ignatiuskirch Alter Dom (Old Cathedral of Ignatius) where composer Anton Bruckner was organist for a while. 

Then what do I see but a large, colorful inflated beaver wearing overalls! A stage and canopied work spaces set up in a square for “OBI MachBar on Tour.” Best I can tell it’s a popular do-it-yourself show. I’m asked if I wish to participate, but it’s nearing dinnertime, after all!

          Back to the ship for a gathering of the Explorer’s Club (folks who have traveled with Viking before) and the Capt’s Farewell Toast featuring shots of Norwegian linie aquavit, matured on sea voyages in oak casks. Less happily, Tim provides disembarkation details for Sunday. 

After dinner a surprise birthday cake with staff serenade, plus my favorite stracciatella ice cream! Well, my birthday isn’t until Sunday, and a staffer let slip the surprise before dinner, but it’s a wonderful treat! 

Music in the Lounge from Mozart to “Sound of Music” by the Salzburg Sound of Music Singers. Pretty lights along the river as we set sail under an almost full moon.

Sat,, June 15: “Organ Music and Cherubs” 

What’s this: a mostly cloudy AM! Cruising past heavily forested hills to another pretty dockage at Passau.

Germany, the Dreiflȕssestadt (town of 3 rivers: Danube, Inn, & Ilz). 

Ornate buildings by the dock lined with flower pots, pastel houses and castle (Veste Oberhaus, 13^th C Old Bishop’s Residence) across the river. The city was founded by Celts more than 2,000 years ago, and an important center for salt trade.

One of the guides recognizes my Red Cross hat; he worked for the German Red Cross. Our guide Dieter is another in a series of excellent guides, leading our included “Passau Walking Tour & Organ Concert.”

We head into town, again so much to see! Pretty signs, flowers, facades. There are 34 churches/chapels; 1 Lutheran, the rest Catholic. As is common, scaffolding here and there; we learn a church tax supports restoration. 

Into Holy Cross Church. Past a girls’ school that was the Niedenburg Abbey for Benedictine nuns. 

Dieter shows us very high water flood marks. He tells a story of a boy who saved a young child from the river, later regretting it after he became a priest . . . the child was Adolf Hitler! Dieter explains the makeup of EU license plates. 

Past a gymnasium (school) closed for Pentacost. A quirky Dachshund Museum. 

Into the Bishops’ Residenz, another ornate staircase with impressive ceiling fresco. Other info tidbits: Mozart gave a concert here when he was 6; Patton’s 3^rd Army liberated Passau at the end of WWII, so it became part of West (not East) Germany. 

A farmers’ market in a square outside a church; I spot something for grandson Miles (we already found a soccer scarf for William), Marjorie gets some wooden Christmas ornaments.

It’s getting steamy again as we get to St. Stephen’s Cathedral for an orgel koncert. Pretty side chapels.  

The interior is over-the-top ornate. Marjorie notes the high number of cherubs per square foot, and they seem quite irreverent, pointing & laughing. 

But the highlight is the concert, drawing a standing-room audience. The organ is variously described as the largest church or cathedral organ in the world or Europe. Anyway, it’s plenty large: 17,774 pipes, 233 stops, 5 separate organs with differing tonal qualities that can be combined via a central console. The ½-hour concert is wonderful, highlighted by Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D Minor. Wow!! I must tell my keyboard friends. This, and Passau in general, is way more than expected.

Back to the ship for lunch, highlighted by Black Forest ice cream. An impressive passing ship, Donau Svarovsky Crystal. I sub for Marjorie, who seeks some down time, on the optional “Bavarian Farm & Countryside” excursion. Our group of 20 joins guide Daniel for a 15-mile scenic drive (passing a hotel that looks like a “sleeping man”) to Joseph & Crista’s Hofladen farm. 

Dieter translates for Joseph, who is also Deputy Mayor of the nearby town. Like most here, this is a relatively small family farm; they live here with his mother and their children. 

Mostly dairy (90 cows), some eggs (tho a fox recently took 40 of their hens!). Crista also markets bread & “sweet treats” (she’s away at a market now). Wheat, barley, and corn are grown for feed. A pretty place: panoramic views of the “3 countries triangle” (Germany, Austria, & Czech Republic), lots of flowers, friendly cats. At the oven Joseph explains the process for making “farmer’s bread.” 

Into the barn to meet the Bavarian mixed colored cattle. Feeding, cleaning, milking done robotically. Lots of birds, so flies & mosquitoes not a problem. One cow is about to give birth; back to milking after a day with the calf. Mothers here get 3-year maternity leave (partly to encourage increased birth rate), but not for cows! Joseph discusses some complicated bureaucratic regulations on farmers: licensing, certification, and training requirements. 

Into a lovely small chapel Joseph and his father built for surrounding neighbors. 

 Then coffee & sweet treats. They have a pretty little store, but sadly it’s only open on Thursdays.

Back to the ship . . . and OMG it’s raining! Our first of the trip. Tim does a humorous riff for his last talk. “Back home: You’ll drop your towel on the floor and it just stays there. Food has calories again. A balanced diet no longer means a cookie in each hand.” The ship moves to a an unscenic backwater docking for tomorrow’s disembarkation, but there’s still a pretty sunset and moonrise to finish off. Farewell dinner, hugs with our new friends. Back at our stateroom a birthday greeting from “The Viking Legend Staff.” And a very special gift from Marjorie: voice lessons with my Mendelssohn Club accompanist Michael. That will be great fun!

 

Sun., June 16: “Giving Us the Business” 

Happy Birthday (really) and Father’s Day to me! A Happy Birthday e-mail from my friends at First Advantage Dental, other greetings on Facebook. It’s bittersweet, as our cruise has come to an end. A rainy & cooler AM. Our disembarkation routine: luggage out at 6, depart 6:50 after some early breakfast. Onto the bus with guide Oliver, first checking that everyone & their luggage are on board. Up into hilly country, then flatter agricultural countryside, pretty villages. It brightens some, then rain again. 

To Munich airport at 8:45. Another “shopping center” airport. We’re briefed on our exit row duties; extra legroom but an awesome responsibility. 

On-time to Dusseldorf at 12:40. Some confusion about our boarding passes with Eurowings (for Lufthansa): they say “First” tho we purchased Premium Economy. Did we get bumped up? We are welcomed by friendly staff into Lufthansa’s Business lounge. Good fortune for our 4½-hour layover: buffet lunch, wine, comfy chairs. And it becomes a beautiful afternoon. Karma for the Birthday/Father’s Day confluence? It does turn out that our seats are Premium Economy (bulkhead), just behind Business, but we’re not complaining. 

On-time takeoff at 5:15, nice views of the city, countryside, pretty clouds. Early to JFK at 7:15, passing over lots of golf courses on Long Island, but we have to wait for a gate. Raining, but sun breaks thru as we park. A wait for bags, then a taxi to Jackson Heights and the family. Another surprise: now the “other grandma” is visiting, Anthea’s mother Pamela (aka “Nan”). And her cat Angus is coexisting uneasily with resident cat Roxy.

Mon., June 17: “Broadway Bound”

          Ah, but we’re not headed home just yet! Grandson Miles has a starring role tonight in a workshop staging at the 92^nd St. Y of a new musical “in development.” William & Miles head off to school. Matt & Anthea off to work. We hang around the apartment until Miles comes home, then subway to the 92Y where Matt meets us. Tonight’s presentation includes several scenes from the project for The Mixed-Up Files of Mrs. Basil E. Frankweiler. The characters are two children, played by Miles and Emma Alexandra, plus older dancers. The creative team is in attendance, with resumes that include such productions as The Book of Mormon and Jersey Boys. So these are not amateurs! Maybe it will make its way to Broadway, tho sadly by then Miles (about to turn 12) may be too old for the part! Wow!! What a fabulous performance! Miles and Emma are such talented and self-assured singers and dancers. 

          But we have to leave right after for the drive back to Albany and our “work” tomorrow: Marjorie teaching a class on homemade greeting cards for Colonie Senior Services, I doing my Red Cross run delivering blood to regional hospitals. And Marjorie takes Matt up to Saratoga for his musical efforts. Lots of rain while we were away, yard & garden plenty lush.

          It was a great trip! Beautiful and interesting sights and experiences in 5 countries, 1 new to us (Slovak Republic), bringing our total to 25 European countries. Excellent guides & excursions. As always, so well treated by the friendly Viking staff, and marvelous food (too much! I put on the “Viking 5”). Very fortunate with the weather, tho less heat would have been nice. Wonderful new friends. As Julie Andrews sang at 15: ♫Danube divine, my heart’s at your shrine♫