Rambling with Russ: Santa Fe

Santa Fe

July 2004

Wednesday, July 21:

We’re off to visit Diane & Jerry, good friends from the Wisconsin days; Diane was a college buddy of Marjorie’s at Oshkosh. It’s our first trip to New Mexico, and after muggy/rainy weather here we’re looking for drier/sunnier. We rouse son Matt at 5 AM to drive us to the airport. Marjorie’s former boss (and long-time friend) John shares our flight, so another chance to share Matt/Anthea wedding photos. No meals or TV on these flights, but on time and free (thanks to “frequent credit card” miles). Some Americans don’t know New Mexico is actually part of the US (the 47^th state in 1912), but this trip has no hassles w/ customs or exchange rates. Pretty views coming in to Albuquerque of mountains & green irrigation patterns surrounded by very dry landscape. Greeted by Diane & Jerry. Our first real summer heat: low 90s with promised low humidity feels good. First sight: the new “Big I,” a multilevel meeting of interstate highways w/ pretty desert brown & turquoise colors and designs on bridges; completed ahead of schedule and under-budget, stunning us New Yorkers. Local note: Albuquerque has the National Atomic Museum (Los Alamos, site of the Manhattan Project, is nearby), its baseball team is the “Isotopes.”

Into Old Town for lunch at a nice cafe and our first “New Mexican” food (basically Mexican w/ local spices and flourishes). Marjorie manages to handle a little Art Auction business back home on her cell phone. Over to pretty San Felipe Church on nearby central plaza. A pretty drive about an hour north to Santa Fe, past pueblos w/ casinos, desert and mountain landscapes. Also many dead piñon trees all over this area due to beetle infestation.

D & J are in Eldorado, about 10 miles east of Santa Fe. They first started coming to SF in 1980, bought land in 1990, built & retired here 2 years ago. The house has an open simple style, in a scenic setting w/ mountain views.

D & J designed the house and it’s full of their personal touches ̶ from beautiful wood & tile to a lovely collection of Southwest art & furniture. Pretty plantings & flowers by the house ̶ Jerry busily tends these and removes unwanted weeds around the lot, a more than fair trade considering no lawnmowing or snowblowing ̶ but otherwise the lot is in a natural state w/ pretty vegetation.

Development in the town is governed by various covenants: one-story adobe style houses that blend into the surroundings, no outdoor pools (need to be careful with water use), RVs must be screened from view (a bone of some contention among the locals), outbuildings must meet design rules, etc. Nice accommodations: comfy bed and excellent shower (always a top priority in our travels), pretty “nearly wild” roses outside our window. Very quiet, though occasionally yappy dogs at night (maybe reacting to coyotes passing thru).

First wildlife sightings: many hummingbirds flitting about (they really do hum, plus squeaky little calls) and jackrabbits. We later see pretty quails at their feeder. Rumbles & showers about 5:00. This is their “monsoon” season, thunderstorms developing most PMs. Beautiful first-day entertainment of lightning (NM & FL are US lightning leaders); we watch from the “portal,” as they call a porch/patio here. We seem OK adjusting to the altitude (over 7,000’). The low humidity leads to some dry eyes; Jerry gives a good tip on drops to use. A pretty sunset, then early bed.

Thursday, July 22:

Bright sunny AM, a pretty layered look to the mountains. Political TV ads by Bush & Kerry, tho we’ve seen none in NY ̶ NM’s a “battleground state.”

Into Santa Fe, past whimsical sculpture of St. Francis (patron saint of SF) communing w/ some large rodent (a prairie dog we think later, since they’re common here). Diane gets us 4-day museum tickets, promised for my birthday last summer while on our Rhine cruise; a wonderful gift, there are fabulous museums in the city. We begin with the Museum of Fine Art. Emanuel Ax is having an open rehearsal here of the same piano/percussion piece he did w/ Matt and his friend Marc a few years ago at Lincoln Center, but we’re unable to connect to say Hi. Highlight of the museum is a traveling exhibit on Nicholas (the last czar) and Alexandra’s personal and household items; this has triggered a “Russian Summer” theme of events and exhibits around the city. Fabergé basket of lilies of the valley is particularly beautiful: diamonds, pearls, gold, silver, jade. Also exhibits of local art (tho Georgia O’Keefe has her own museum).

On to the Palace of Governors on the Plaza, Indian vendors on the portal. I find a sand painting magnet for my office. Maybe the altitude has Marjorie off her game ̶ I have to talk her into buying a distinctive silver & serpentine bracelet w/ small inlays of turquoise and other stones.

Lunch of more yummy local dining on the 2^nd-story porch of “Ore House,” overlooking the Plaza w/ hanging flowers & chile ristra (strings of dried red chile). Diane gives interesting background on her training as a local museum docent.

Cooler, some clouds in the PM. We stroll thru shops, listen to live music on the Plaza. Into historic La Fonda, "the Inn at the end of the Santa Fe Trail" (I kid Jerry for not knowing which end; we later learn it starts in Missouri and ends here). A pretty interior, especially murals in the dining room. They recently ousted craftspeople from here after a newspaper reported found some items were not "authentic;" but there's careful oversight on vendors at the Palace.

To St. Francis Cathedral. Pretty sculptures outside, including 1^st Native American saint and amusing dancing friar with wings.

Adjacent Cathedral Park has complicated sculpture about Spanish colonists: settlers, animals, wagons, tools, etc.

Beautiful church interior, side chapel with new carved altarpiece completed 1-2 years ago.

A historical museum in the Palace, including an interesting exhibit on Jewish immigration to NM beginning in 1840s. Diane points out state seal made of spoons, forks, knives, keys, etc.

A drive to Jackalope, a local shopping institution. It spreads out forever indoors & out, everything from pottery to a prairie dog village; even a shuttle so shoppers don’t get too worn out. Marjorie loves the birdbaths, but shipping too expensive ̶ a major regret for her thruout our stay. Back home for salmon on Jerry’s “George Foreman” grill. A quite cool/breezy evening. A busy day, mix of museums & shopping-as-sightseeing.

Friday, July 23:

Nice AM sun/clouds mix, high today upper-70s. Marjorie gets in some time on the treadmill. She & I sing Happy Birthday to Diane, who thinks we’re not ready to cut a CD. Not to worry, we’ll get more culture today on Museum Hill, with Diane as our most excellent personal docent providing the inside scoop and a tutorial on history & culture.

The Plaza around which the museums are arrayed offers mountain views, flowers, sculptures. All the museums are put together so well, not too overwhelming; even the gift shops are pretty. First the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. Fascinating, beautiful things: tinwork, santos (religious figures) in bultos (carvings) & retablos (flat paintings), straw appliqué.

Then the impressive Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. I buy a bear “fetish,” a talisman representing strength and introspection (what every department chair needs); it’s from the Zuni tribe, so Diane says it’s the most authentic. Marjorie finds an Apache children’s folktale about a flutist for Anthea’s flutist friend Adi. We use Diane’s discount; she says we have to treat her like a queen when she visits us, but don’t we already? Museum Cafe for lunch: I sample another gazpacho variety (seems akin to sampling chowder in New England or scones in Ireland), Marjorie has excellent squash soup, we share yummy bread pudding.

On to the Museum of International Folk Art, Diane’s favorite where she’s a volunteer docent. Incredible collections from Peru, Ethiopia, Bavaria, Laos, etc., etc.

Marjorie’s sister Mary & my sister-in-law Ann would really love this place. And the exhibits are only the tip of the iceberg. One wing houses a collection of some 10,000 items from a donation of over 100,000. The donor dictated the placement of each item, can’t be changed even following his death (the grandson keeps tabs). We especially enjoy the many types & scales of miniatures. Also an exhibit about Carnival celebration in different cultures.

Windy, rainy, very cool (low 60s) when we leave the museum. A stop where Jerry is doing his regular volunteer shift at ReStore, which sells used building and household materials to benefit Habitat for Humanity. Marjorie finds some bargains on lamp globes, tries to bargain some more, but friendly manager Simone says sorry, not unless she buys a lot more. Also a stop at the sincere little Eldorado library, where Diane is on the board. Heavy rain & flooding south of us ̶ news reports of kayaking on the streets in Albuquerque! A winding ride thru countryside for Diane’s birthday dinner at El Nido in Tesuque w/ friends Walt & Wayne, who operate a couple of B&Bs in Santa Fe. More local culture: Zozobra, a character burned during fiesta to get rid of “doom.” Good company and an excellent meal: Marjorie has roasted rabbit enchilada, Diane gets a candle in her creme brulee.

Saturday, July 24:

News items: someone in a Superman outfit attacked motorists in Albuquerque and (probably not related) a security stand-down at Los Alamos Nat’l Laboratory. Just about perfect weather for our day at the Spanish Market in Santa Fe: mostly sunny (until the usual late PM clouds), high about 80. We park at one of W & W’s B&Bs, “El Farolito.” Wayne gives a quick tour of the beautiful inn (too bad we already have free lodging), sends us off with a bit more breakfast & coffee (tho Marjorie almost has to stay to keep playing ball with CJ, their peppy dachshund).

The 53^rd Annual Spanish Market, organized by Spanish Colonial Arts Society, is quite an affair. Some people line up during the night for first crack at the most famous artists. Entries are screened for both quality and local Hispanic heritage.

It fills the Plaza and surrounding streets w/ a wide variety of art forms (especially dominated by religious imagery) from over 200 exhibitors, demonstrations, music & dance. Many of the art forms and symbols we learned about in the museums yesterday, in a variety of styles. There’s also a Contemporary Hispanic Market, with somewhat looser rules. It’s busy but not as crowded as we expected (tho there always seems to be a line at the ATM!).

We find several nice things, especially work by children exhibited in a separate part of the Plaza: carvings of St. Francis, a hummingbird, an angel; woven coaster and mats; a whimsical drawing of San Pascual, patron saint of cooks (who do you suppose wanted that?). But our shopping is under control, passing up $50 mugs in a fancy store. Odd to be surrounded by artists when Marjorie’s not soliciting for her WMHT Art Auction; but she’s still on duty, geting info on an artist in one gallery who does fabulous reverse painted light globes and has studio in upstate NY. Burrito Co. Cafe for lunch; a good choice ̶ it’s apparent that the food court is too small for the crowds. Marjorie has a green chile “stew.” It’s not the “chili con carne” we’re used to ̶ more soupy, very tasty and a definite bite. Not sure I have this straight, but green chile is fresh, red is more ripe/mature; either can be varying levels of hot. Diane: “You know it’s hot if your eyelids sweat.” My burrito plate includes posole, a common side dish like hominy.

Thru the Contemporary Market, less traditional and more like a standard art show, but also interesting. Marjorie finds a lovely small straw mosaic (will we need an ATM soon?). Everybody is worn out ̶ Marjorie’s “little foots can’t go no further.” But after cold drinks we get a second wind for a couple more shops. Jerry buys “Weeds of the West” book for his yard-tending (and to answer our questions). Historic Lensic Theater (now a performing arts center) is next to Burro Alley (w/ burro sculpture) where burros delivered firewood for the city in the old days. Odds & ends from the fridge for dinner: Marjorie makes quesadilla, Jerry makes guacamole. Breezy, quite cool evening (low 50s), heavy rain later on. We relax listening to Diane’s birthday CDs: Norah Jones & Rickie Lee Jones (no, not sisters). Awakened by a 1am call on Marjorie’s cell phone ̶ the same idiot who does this in Albany; Marjorie’s not too polite.

Sunday, July 25:

Cloudier AM, still quite cool (high about 70). We decided against heading to Taos ̶ lots of driving and not so different from here, so we’ll save it for the next trip. Today will be R & R. I can rest my shutter finger and diary writer’s cramp (tho this is my 1^st trip using the little digital voice recorder Matt gave me, replacing scraps of paper w/ mumbling into my hand; it works well, but companions still make fun of my self-reminders about things). We borrow Diane’s car (Whee!-- speed limit is 75) to go to Mass at St. John the Baptist, a small simple church on the outskirts of Santa Fe. Songs combine English & Spanish (“Gloria a mi Dios”), with trumpets. Visitors asked to stand and be greeted; we came the furthest, but get no prize. Happy Birthday sung to this week’s celebrants. Afterward a stop at a grocery store ̶ Marjorie always likes to look over local stuff. A couple local spice items for Matt. News flash: “Eskimos on Mars!” according to World News at checkout. The dirt & gravel roads leading to D & J’s house seem more washboardy after the rain. Brunch at Harry’s Roadhouse, a local favorite. We get breakfast fritata & burrito (w/ green chile). I note we tourists always get local specialties, locals (D & J) may order omelets or BLTs; I guess the novelty wears off. Bakery a specialty here, so we feel compelled to share white chocolate layer cake w/ caramel & piñon nuts, Diane has apricot/cherry cobbler. Yum! Marjorie & Diane go to local open houses during the PM to satisfy their curiosity. I wander the lot for “weeds (and cactus) of the west” photos. Jerry’s tasty bean soup for dinner.

Monday, July 26:

Local paper has El Nuevo Mexicano section in Spanish on Mondays. A couple finches fly into the windows, apparently common here; they seem dazed but OK. We take Jerry’s Jeep today to drive north and west to Bandelier Nat’l Monument. A pretty drive: more pueblo casinos, pretty decorations along new road construction, mountains & colored rock formations, Los Alamos Nat’l Lab sites.

A perfect AM, bright sun, high to about 80 (D & J say it’s tough here in the 90s); and we’re prepared w/ hats, sun block, water bottles. We hike thru a spectacular canyon of colored volcanic rock w/ holes and caves used by early Anasazi Indians 600+ years ago. It was a very large settlement: over 1,000 living areas just in the 1 ½ miles in this one canyon (only a small part of the park), both on valley floor and in cliffs.

I’m the only one of our group to climb ladders into caves, but am humbled watching little kids scramble quickly up and down; and I draw the line at the Ceremonial Cave ̶ it’s another long hike there plus about 140’ climb up 4 ladders! Cute little lizards scampering about (they’re also around D & J’s place); one nicely poses for photos on a brightly colored rock. Picnic lunch at the visitor center, then an interesting film and into the museum that includes a model of the inhabited area.

Dramatic thunderheads looming over the canyon as we leave. We manage nice weather the rest of the day, but heavy rain & flash floods east of Santa Fe. The road crosses over the very muddy Rio Grande (Santa Fe R., in contrast, is bone dry).

To Chimayó and Santuario de Chimayó, a Holy Week pilgrimage destination for healing powers of “holy dirt” inside the church. Into nearby Santo Niño Chapel ̶ an interesting background story of elaborately dressed Christ child appearing to prisoners with bread & water, now considered a patron saint of travelers; I find a miniature retablo for my office.

Interesting offbeat stores here. I’ve worn my “Mr. Whippy” t-shirt (from an ice cream place in Virginia), getting much grief from my companions, but a store clerk recognizes it fondly. Marjorie & Diane enjoy the sales talk of a man who gets them to sample dried chiles; they only get to the #2 hotness level, but buy some for home.

More beautiful views driving to Tesuque w/ incredible galleries of glasswork, sculpture, and furniture (including dressers & chairs for $12-18,000!; sorry, wouldn’t fit in our luggage). Local note: nearby Glorieta was the site of westernmost Civil War battle. Diane says she’s preparing a trip-ending quiz for us. Santa Fe Bar & Grill for a nice dinner. My enchiladas w/ green chile has more kick than others I’ve had; I’ve enjoyed trying different dishes w/ varying chile experiences. We finish the day watching Bill & Hillary at the Democratic National Convention. The Governor of NM is the main “master of ceremonies” (or whatever it’s called), so the convention is getting a lot of play here.

Tuesday, July 27:

Another pretty AM: sun/cloud mix, about 70, a little breeze. As usual, Diane & I are up before sleepyheads Marjorie & Jerry. This is “mop-up” day for things we couldn’t fit in or want to do again.

A stroll along Canyon Rd., filled w/ fabulous galleries and outdoor sculptures, plantings & flowers. It’s like free museums & gardens. Past Geronimo, the most expensive restaurant in SF. Into San Miguel Mission, purportedly the oldest continuous church in the US; the oldest house next door.

Across to the Capitol, a pretty round building but no dome. Interesting war memorial in front, tribal names inscribed and barbed wire on top.

Capitol access is very different than NY: little security (no metal detectors or security checkpoints to pass thru), we can walk right up to the suite containing the Gov’s office (and “Office of the First Lady”) and into the legislative chambers. Some bronze sculptures even say “Please Touch.”
Also unlike Albany, House and Senate chambers have similar style and size.

It’s a beautiful building: lovely woodwork, art exhibited on 3 floors around a rotunda w/ colored windows at the top, state seal on the floor, hanging flags and plants. Nearby Guadalupe Cafe for lunch. More t-shirt recognition: waitress Miss Block comments on my Block Island t-shirt. Warnings that the chile here is HOT, so we settle on yummy wraps, salads, and guacamole. Diane complains her bubbles didn’t bubble at Matt & Anthea’s wedding in June; we apologize most sincerely. It’s raining at the end of lunch, so of course we have to stay to share desserts: carrot cake & strawberry/blackberry pie.

Marjorie & I get a little wet walking to the Plaza, she makes more contributions to the economic well-being of the Indian vendors (whose authenticity is more assured here than in the stores, plus prices are very reasonable and they keep all the proceeds): a pretty ring of turquoise & other inlayed stones for her, a toe ring for Anthea. Showers continue in the PM & again in the evening; forecast for showers to move out, temps back around 90 later in the week. We’re quite content to have traded a few PM showers for such comfortable temps during our stay. Jerry fixes tasty tunafish salad w/ olives for dinner, then “Blue Bunny” ice cream bars. Marjorie goes on-line to look for bird baths, still longing for the one she passed up at Jackalope; oh, the pain of lost love!

Wednesday, July 28:

Yet another nice AM: cool, clear, sunny. Local note: sports coverage includes Jack Daniels World Rodeo standings. Marjorie has a St. Francis moment, liberating a confused hummingbird from the garage. We take the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway down to Albuquerque, past old mining towns (turquoise, coal, etc.), rock formations & mountains; a number of movie locations are along here. Interesting town of Madrid has gone from a mining town to a ghost town to now being filled with galleries and aging hippies. Sandia Mts., east of Albuquerque, very green, lots of snow and popular ski area in winter. Various cell phone calls are made while we’re in the pretty airport; what did we do without it? Marjorie & I share a flight to Chicago, then split off: me to Albany to wade thru work stuff and tend the yard & garden, she to Kansas City to visit sister Mary and help w/ a big garage sale. Thicker air as we come into Chicago, rain & humid in Albany (it rained a lot here while we were gone, evidenced by lush garden & grass). I’m a bit delayed leaving Chicago, finally home after midnight.

It was a wonderful week. Diane & Jerry are such good friends who provide great hospitality, and an unlimited supply of pistachios for snacks. Santa Fe and surrounding area are a marvelous mix of Indian & Hispanic history and culture, distinctive foods, and natural beauty. We can see why D & J fell in love w/ this area as a retirement destination. It’s also easy to see why they get so many visitors (Diane says sorry, but they’re booked for the rest of the year). We’re sorry to leave, but we’ll be back!

Marjorie has also done some solo travel to Santa Fe, in 2010 & 2016.

2010: