Florida To & Fro: Sarasota to Sanibel

Snowflakes in Florida

January 2014

           We seem to be moving inexorably more into “senior” status: a few (?) gray hairs, getting Social Security, and now I’m into my “semi-retirement” transition  ̶  not teaching this year, set to finish up w/ the Spring 2015 semester. Not being shackled to semester schedules, what could be more appropriate than a winter jaunt to Florida, tho Marjorie says we’re “snowflakes” not “snowbirds” because it’s a short stay. Long-time Wisconsin friend Kay, w/ whom we’ve done much traveling (as a hostess gift we’ve put together via Snapfish a photo book, Travels with Kay), invited us to join her at a January rental in Sarasota. Given the vagaries of winter air travel we opted to drive, allowing flexibility and visits w/ some good friends to and fro.

Headin’ South

          Fittingly, a winter storm (christened “Hercules” on The Weather Channel) blows in from the Midwest on Thursday 1/2 into Friday AM, bringing nearly a foot of snow and subzero temps, even closing the Thruway during the night. But as hoped, Saturday offers a window to head south to warmer climes. We get an early start, armed w/ our trusty GPS “Penelope” and backup Mapquest directions. Plus Marjorie’s new 21^st C device, an IPod Nano, is loaded up w/ music. A beautiful sunrise, perfect clear sunny weather, roads clear and dry w/ pretty fresh snow on either side. Our route today takes us thru NJ, PA, MD, West VA, into VA. We generally make good time, tho more traffic than expected and lots of trucks in PA. As we’re about to exit for lunch several deer bound across I-81 ahead of us, somehow avoiding several vehicles! 

Lunch next to Ft. Indiantown Gap Nat’l Cemetery, so a quick drive-thru  ̶  gleaming snow criss-crossed by many deer tracks, wreaths marking grave sites, a striking monument, largest in the VA cemeteries, that “evokes the ruins of a war-torn building in a land of solemnity.” A marker for the Mason-Dixon Line at the MD border, so we’re officially in The South but still snow-covered ground (and will be until Staunton VA, 520 miles into the trip). Along the Shenendoah Valley, a pretty evening w/ layered mountains to both sides, lots of cows in the fields and hills. We think of son Matt  ̶  tonight is his first performance subbing as the percussionist for “A Gentlemen’s Guide to Love and Murder” on Broadway (we learn tomorrow it went very well). Overnight at a Howard Johnson’s in Lexington VA, high on a hill w/ mountain view. I indulge in a “pretzelburger” for dinner. An old “Red Green” show on TV.

At Sunday breakfast we chat w/ a couple driving home to New Mexico; a small world experience (the 1^st of many on this trip): his sister lives in Delmar outside Albany. Cold is coming behind us from another Winter Storm, “Ion.” Some freezing rain makes for a bit dicey driving the 1^st 2 hours  ̶  some nasty accidents on the other side of I-81 (conditions were apparently worse just a little earlier) and our side mirrors and wipers are icing up. Thankfully it warms up, but then heavy fog, then rain . . . but no frogs or locusts! And the rain cleans the salt and other road gunk off the car. Into NC to Charlotte and overnight w/ long-time friends Carl & Betty (Carl & I go back to Brighton childhoods); we last saw them on a visit in 2007. We’re especially pleased to be here for their Sunday family gathering w/ children Chris (but his wife Sara isn’t feeling well so we miss her) and Diane (w/ husband James), and 4 grandchildren. After dinner we introduce Betty & Carl to “Downton Abbey,” the 4^th season premiere.

          Now a “polar vortex” is right behind us! Forecast of less than 10° tonight in Charlotte; Anchorage to be warmer than Nashville today. We have 40s w/ mix of sun & clouds to drive thru SC and GA to Florida. Signs of the South: palm trees and Spanish moss, serious retirees w/ RVs and cars in tow. Gas for $3.09! A lunch detour to see some coastal Georgia: Brunswick and St. Simons Island, beautiful homes, tree canopies w/ moss hanging down. Good local eatery The 4^th of May Café, lots of “y’alls” from the waitress. To Ponte Vedra outside Jacksonville to stay w/ Caroline, a friend from our 2009 Provence river cruise. Enthusiastic greetings, especially from Goldendoodle Dolly, just a pup when we visited in 2011. Out for Dolly’s walk, then Caroline gives a tour of this burgeoning Del Webb development. Caroline covers some plants because of a freeze warning, then we warm up w/ sausage & peppers for dinner.

Balmy Florida

          Tues., 1/7. Well, not so balmy just yet. It’s 6° in Atlanta (same as Albany), 23° in J’ville! Caroline’s little birdbath is frozen, but we don’t see any birds skating a la Peanuts’ Woodstock. It’s clear & sunny & warms up some as we head south and west, past Orlando w/ its various amusements, from The Holyland Experience to Disney World to Dinosaur World. Finally to our destination in Sarasota, 1511 miles so far. 

           Our Sarasota Coral Cottage (518 Columbia Court) is in a pretty historic district of cottages and walkable neighborhood that housed circus people. Queen Kay, as we come to call her, has the master bedroom, we have 2 twin beds plus our own bath. There’s a good kitchen, something of a mixed blessing for Marjorie, who prepares most of our dinners and has to deal w/ some touchy smoke/heat detectors; a big TV that occasionally mysteriously changes channels on its own; washer & dryer outside in a shed. 

 

A short walk to Word of Mouth café for lunch, and another small world experience: our waitress moved from Schenectady 16 years ago. 

I walk to the waterfront to give my shutter finger some exercise: seabirds, boats and pretty marina, colorful large sculptures, pretty houses, palms and flowers on the walk back on a nice PM in the mid-40s. 

A bag of just-baked Italian pastries from Kay’s local friend Judy hangs on the cottage door to welcome us. M & K have gone shopping at Publix for supplies, including bottled water to counteract the sulphur-tasting tap water. Local TV shows manatees huddled around a nearby warm spring. But there’s promise of 80s by Friday. We learn to use K’s IPad to check e-mail. 

         Wed., 1/8. It’s Ringling day. Brisk 40s AM (later up to 60s) & a bit drizzly, so a good day for indoor stuff. And “small world” experiences continue  ̶  a staff person has daughter in Schenectady.

The Ringling estate is quite a complex, we spend an enjoyable 5 hours. Starting w/ John & Mable’s winter residence Ca’ d’ Zan, an ornate Venetian Gothic mansion on the Bay. An interesting video on their lives. 

 

On to the Circus Museum, another good video on the history of “The Boys from Baraboo” (Baraboo is near M’s Portage WI hometown)

and the remarkable if somewhat oxymoronic world’s largest miniature circus that spreads on and on in incredible detail. Other colorful and informative exhibits. 

 Then the wide-ranging Museum of Art. Pretty grounds, especially the banyan trees, including one where a sculpture figure has been enveloped by the tree’s air roots; a sculpture garden w/ beautiful red bougainvillea; a rose garden lined w/ sculptured figures. 

Kay had alerted us (to my dismay) that Sarasota is the resale capital of the world, so we head to the first few of many Goodwill etc. stops during our stay (Marjorie looking especially for deals on picture frames for her artwork). I take one of several naps after chauffeuring Queen Kay and her minion Marjorie; and I’m semi-retired, after all. 

Thurs., 1/9. Rain during the night, light showers AM & early PM, up to mid-70s today. Another mostly indoor day. Up to Bradenton, some resale shop success for M. It’s also a manatee theme day: we’re in Manatee County, drive along Manatee Blvd., past a manatee mailbox by the road. 

To Palma Sola Botanical Park w/ pretty birds, fruit trees, other plantings. More "small world"  ̶  the woman on staff here lived in Rochester (where I grew up), another visiting couple is from Catskill. No wonder FL is passing NY in population size  ̶  New Yorkers keep migrating here! 

On to the Museum of South Florida, w/ aquarium and planetarium. It’s the home of Snooty, world’s oldest known manatee (born here in 1948); they also take in other manatees for rehab and release back to the wild. A very informative presentation; we learn manatees eat a lot of lettuce, romaine preferred. 

 

Also an interesting planetarium show, lunch at a nearby bistro, then back to go thru the museum. 

 

Heading back to Sarasota, a stop at a place we’d passed and thought looked intriguing: Marietta Museum of Art and Whimsy. 

A serendipitous choice, since it’s open only 3 PMs a week. It’s free (a 501(c)3 organization created apparently as a tax shelter by an artist), we’re told it’s designed “to make people smile,” and it surely does! 

Full of color, variety, creativity, many oddities but not tacky. And we’re now full circle on apocalyptic signs on the trip: Hell (in Michigan) has frozen and pigs fly (sculptures here). Sunshine breaks out, we head south to Venice and more resale shops.  

Fri., 1/10. In the news: a pot shortage in Colorado now that it’s legal; NJ Gov. Christie is dealing w/ “Bridgegate” (some staffers set up a big traffic jam at the GW Bridge as some sort of political payback). More sun, up to 80 today, tho a cold front will then drop back to the 70s (we think we’ll manage somehow). 

Good today for outdoor stuff, so we head to Myakka State Park. A very large area, beautiful trees and Spanish moss. 

I take a short walk and encounter many birders and fishermen intermingled w/ a large group of vultures (also perched in overhanging trees), white egrets, alligators.

Then we take a tour on airboat “Gator Gal,” on a very large lake that’s only 3’ deep.

Many birds: egrets, ibis, vultures, wild turkeys, anhinga, osprey. Many sizable gators (12-15’) swimming in the lake and spread along one shore. A distant view of a feral pig; these are a big nuisance here, but K’s disappointed she doesn’t get a good view of any. 

Then a tram tour w/ more on the ecology and vegetation  ̶  oak and palm hammocks, marsh, prairie  ̶  and life for pioneers and ranchers here. Many vultures circling overhead. The gift shop seems to offer all things gator, café menu includes gator stew and gator bites.

GPS Penelope takes us somewhat circuitously thru undeveloped areas, past ranches and orange groves, to Solomon’s Castle. If yesterday had “whimsy,” this has to be called “strange.” Solomon, now 79 and still living here, began this in 1979. 

The building (w/ exterior walls made of newspaper printing plates) and everything in the interior are created from recycled materials. 

And there are many oddities to be seen! A tour includes excruciating puns for just about everything. Heading away we pass vultures doing their thing to clean up a road-kill deer. Back in town, M is getting tired of my references to the very long stoplights here (which Judy later confirms). Is this to give seniors more time to cross? The cottage owner stops by to address a few things and tips us off to this weekend’s “Thunder by the Bay,” a motorcycle festival.

          Sat., 1/11. E coast of Florida had 20+” of rain the past 2 days. Here it’s nice and feels like Florida: pleasantly warm and humid, headed to low 80s. 

To the farmer’s market in downtown Sarasota, where it’s nice to finally meet Judy, who’s an excellent resource for things to see, places to eat, etc. A bright green “Mr. Whippy” t-shirt (from a Virginia ice cream place) makes me easy to spot. Beautiful produce, especially aromatic strawberries. Kay gets a papaya, is told it’ll be really good when it starts to get moldy on the outside. 

After relaxing at Whole Foods, M & R go to nearby Selby Library where Judy volunteers. A pretty building and interior, an aquarium wraps around entrance to the children’s room. Main St. now closed off and filled w/ hundreds of colorful (and noisy) bikes from the rally. To Yummy House for excellent dim sum lunch. 

 

Heading toward the causeway over the bay we detour to a park w/ fishing pier, many pelicans. Then we survive the usually daunting St. Armands Circle traffic, no trouble parking at Lido Beach. A gorgeous PM, beautiful white sand w/ blue sky and water, a heron shadows a fisherman hoping for a treat. 

Out to Bird Key for serious gawking ops: beautiful houses and landscaped yards. Back home M & K do laundry, then out to resale shops; M finds “the mother lode” of frames. Heavy rain and wind in the evening, so we nix plans to see rally bikes w/ LED lighting.

Sun., 1/12. A sunny day, cooler (about 70) & less humid. M & R go to Mass (as bikes rumble past) at St. Martha’s.

Pretty windows and courtyard. We’re advised at the end of mass to use fist bumps instead of handshakes due to flu season. A very interesting church, as we learn chatting w/ very friendly and very Italian Fr. Fausto Stampiglia (more small world: he started out near us in Cohoes in the 1970s!  ̶  back home, our Fr. Farano remembers him). Some 6000 parishioners, 2 schools, many Masses (including Spanish and Vietnamese). This is the “USA Circus Church,” built w/ help (fundraising and construction) from circus people. We take Fr. Fausto’s photo w/ a circus wagon in the parish hall that contains the original occupant, a lion (now stuffed)! 

After brunch at Word of Mouth, K wants to be a “biker babe,” so we head downtown. Bikes grouped by type for judging, many sizes and colorful decorations. Vendors are rather different than the farmer’s market. 

 

 

Over to the waterfront park and marina under beautiful blue sky. K shows us her favorite tiki bar; regretfully, we never get here for drinks at sunset. To Siesta Beach, billed as “#1 Beach in the USA;” very long and wide white sand, but we think beaches yesterday had prettier surroundings. K gets credit for cooking an excellent salmon dinner tonight.

          Mon., 1/13. Off as the sun rises for the 2-hour drive to Sanibel Island and rendezvous w/ friends Cheryl & Ali from my June trip to S. America w/ brother Doug.

 

A cool,clear AM, perfect for beachcombing. Over the bridge to Lighthouse Beach. 

Quite a few people doing the “Sanibel stoop” looking for shells, but not crowded. Pretty little shells all along the beach, we fill a couple of small bags. Many shore birds, pelicans diving into the water. 

A drive thru the village on Periwinkle Way to J N “Ding” Darling Nat’l Wildlife Refuge, named after an editorial cartoonist and conservationist; M’s National Parks senior pass gets us in for free. A pretty drive w/ many places to pull over. Someone recognizes my “Mr. Whippy.” 

  

   A volunteer helps us spot many birds, w/ views thru his telescope. He’s excited to see 2 beautiful roseate spoonbills, then a flock comes in to land! He points out a willet limping on an injured leg; he had spotted it last year and is pleased to see it doing OK. Other birds include ibis, egret, godwit, bald eagle. We also see lots of different license plates today: Indiana, Nebraska, Minnesota, California, Louisiana, etc. 

     

Back toward the village and even here there’s a Goodwill, but it’s disappointing  ̶  you’d think the rich folks here would give away better stuff! We’d planned to meet Ali & Cheryl for lunch, but they’ve missed some turns driving over from their homes in Pompano Beach. After “udderly good food” (their description, we agree) at The Island Cow, out to Captiva Island to gawk at fancy homes (even the houses here have names!), mostly hidden behind lush landscaping. Cheryl & Ali finally make it to their overnight hotel; we join them for refreshments at Gator Bites Tail and Ale; an enjoyable reunion for me, new friends for M & K. Then back to Sarasota as the sun sets. More Judy treats, muffins & spices, waiting for us on the door. We’re in time for M & K to watch ET’s “fashion hits and misses” from last night’s Golden Globes.

Tues., 1/14. In the news: a chemical spill in W Virginia leaves many people w/o water for a number of days. It’s becoming cooler, headed toward 50s on Thursday. AM showers, a good day for Mote Aquarium. 

A beautiful place, both exhibits and research facilities, very informative volunteer docents. Lovely reef exhibits, sharks, a sea horse conservation lab, stingray pool  ̶  the rays seem very friendly, flapping their “wings” and coming up to be touched. 

Another building contains manatees, sea turtles (including a blind one named “Hang Tough”), dolphins. M is amused when a manatee “passes gas.” But she nixes getting a Darth Gator t-shirt. 

This seems to have made us hungry for seafood, so off to Barnacle Bill’s for lunch. Then a stop to find local beer for Matt, including “Swamp Ape,” 

and more strolling thru our neighborhood.

Wed., 1/15. Weather news: good conditions for ice fishing on L. Winnebago WI; an “armada of clippers” is bringing cold from the Midwest. Other news: French Premier having difficulties w/ his 2 girlfriends; another Justin Bieber brouhaha; a retired policeman shoots and kills someone in a local theater following an altercation over texting. Cool, mostly sunny AM. 

R & M head to the St. Petersburg area to visit M’s cousin Ann in Seminole. “State Prisoners Working” along the road; Cool Hand Luke? Over the pretty Sunshine Skyway causeway/bridge. Past a water tank w/ pretty spoonbill paintings, under overpasses for Pinellas Trail (a 38-mile hiking trail). We last saw Ann on a trip to Orlando in 1991. 

A nice visit, Ann shows us some beautiful scrapbooks and answers some questions from M about the family tree. Out for a good Frog Pond lunch. As we leave there’s yet another small world experience: Ann’s condo manager is from Albany, daughter still lives there! 

Into St. Pete, pretty waterfront park and a tour of Chihuly Collection  ̶  excellent docent, beautiful exhibits of glass sculptures.

Thurs., 1/16. A cold front came thru w/ rain during the night, clear AM & only mid-50s today. Another Word of Mouth breakfast, a reprise w/ Schenectady waitress. M & K will take the bus (w/ the unfortunate acronym “SCAT”) to meet up w/ Judy for “girl time” at a Whole Foods cooking class. 

I head for Crowley Museum and Nature Center. A drive thru ranchland, many hawks soaring overhead. I have the place pretty much to myself, very peaceful tho startled by a couple of big, noisy birds (hawk & heron). Pretty boardwalk trails thru oak hammock and swamp habitats, pioneer cabin and rural house, some other structures, nearby eagle nest. Back to pick up M & K & J after their enjoyable class. 

To Marie Selby Botanical Gardens, where we’re joined by Judy’s partner Paul. A lovely place: tropical conservatory highlighted by colorful orchids, a painting exhibit, outside walkways w/ beautiful views of the bay (including Paul’s boat at anchor), a large lawn w/ gazebo and pavilion for weddings, impressive banyans and mangroves, a small exhibit of bonsai trees. Paul points out a noisy flock of wild parakeets. 

Judy has us join in her favorite activity: frenzied feeding of large colorful koi fish.

Words for the day: bromeliad (plants that store water) and epiphyte (plants that grow non-parasitically on another plant). Tonight we share a guilty secret: watching early “American Idol” auditions. 

          Fri., 1/17. The clippers are bringing cold to the mid-Atlantic & Northeast but not much snow expected for our drive home (fingers crossed). Mostly sunny, temps to mid-60s for our last full day here. 

We head south again to Ft. Myers, passing “senior” billboards for hip and knee replacements, vasectomies. To Lee County Manatee Park, hoping to see manatees “in the wild” as they congregate for warmer water (provided here by nearby power plant). We’re pleased to see a couple, then more come in until there’s some 20-25 including calves. A special highlight of the trip! A volunteer gives an informative “quiz;” after completing it we each get a “Friend of Manatees” card and 8x10 photo (but unable to get a manatee signature). 

Into Ft. Myers, “City of Palms,” w/ beautiful trees lining the road. On to the Ford and Edison Winter Estates. Edison mentored Ford, they became good friends, and built homes together here. 

Pretty houses, but not like the ornate Newport RI mansions. Beautiful grounds, especially the banyan & palm trees, along the Caloosahatchee R (now there’s a Southern name!). A good audio tour thru the buildings and grounds. 

A museum on Edison’s life and many scientific pursuits, including his Botanic Research Laboratory. 

An excellent lunch at Mel’s Diner in Cape Coral, and another Goodwill stop! Tamiami Trail north not as scenic as we hoped and some heavy traffic, so we head to I-75 . . . and encounter a bad traffic backup caused by an overturned semi . . . and our gas is getting low! But we get off OK. Thru a neighborhood of Amish restaurants and shops; we’ve seen quite a few Amish during our travels here. Past a truck advertising wild hog removal; tho Kay has wanted to see wild pigs, she declines to follow them. It’s leftover clean-out-the-fridge night for dinner.

Goin’ Home

          Sadly, it’s time to head home. We’ll miss the Florida RV Supershow to learn about the “RV lifestyle.” But we have sand and shells scattered on the car’s floor as memorabilia. Clear & sunny on Saturday, mid-60s as we head north. A rest stop west of Orlando brings a “Good Samaritan” experience for Marjorie. She comes out of the rest room with a large purse that had been left behind  ̶  cell phone, wallet w/ many credit cards, a bag full of medications. No shops or staff here, but we find a tourist office phone # on a poster, they give us a sheriff’s #, someone will be along shortly. But then Good Samaritan Marjorie looks more into the purse, finds an emergency contact card w/ husband’s #, Hooray!: it’s his cellphone and he answers. They’re almost back to the rest area to search for the purse, we have a very tearful & grateful rendezvous. Leaving the rest area we pass a sign: “Caution: Venomous Snakes in the Area.” Some nasty traffic getting past Orlando. Back to stay w/ Caroline & Dolly. Out for a walk, Caroline shows us the beautiful clubhouse and her garden plot. A good seafood dinner at local eatery Barbara Jean’s.

           Frost on the car Sunday AM! But C’s birdbath isn’t frozen this time. Mostly sunny & cool today. Many opportunities along the way to stop for fruit & nuts; we get some, but not interested in a pecan slushie. Thru Georgia and S. Carolina low country, billboards (lots of billboards along the roads!) for fireworks, guns & ammo. 

To Charleston and overnight w/ Nancy & Les, more new friends from my S. America trip. They live in a wonderful 180-year-old house that has been adapted and added to in interesting ways  ̶  Les is an architect w/ handy home-improvement skills. Pretty plantings and trellises in the yard, looking very Charleston. Nancy is excited to see our Tough Traveler bags  ̶  there’s a family connection. 

We drive around Charleston, many old houses and pretty porches, Les provides interesting architectural tidbits. 

They drop us off to wander thru the old city market near the Battery, then a walk back to the house. Les shows us a book of photos and drawings of his wide-ranging projects: as coordinating architect for Roosevelt Island in NYC, the entry building for the Marines’ Parris Island recruit training site, a # of churches, even furniture. Nancy prepares a very tasty “low country bog” dinner: boiled shrimp w/ potatoes, sausage, corn, etc. Then we all (including their little Bichon Frise, Chelsea) settle in to watch “Downton Abbey.”

          We’ve decided not to stay an extra day in Charleston; we’d been here w/ Marjorie’s Uncle Bill in 1997, and are ready to get home. Cool & sunny for our Monday drive to Richmond and the last of our chain of Friends B&Bs: Grace, one of our regular Albany Symphony guests. A winter drive thru the Carolinas has a very brown Fall cast. “South of the Border” billboards start about 80 miles beforehand; this seems the SE version of Wall Drug in S Dakota; but it seems closed when we get there. Past Honda Way, the mother ship for our car? We’ve resisted the enticements of regional restaurants like Bojangles and Waffle House, but swing into Shoney’s (born in 1947, just like us!) for a Southern-style buffet lunch, highlighted by chicken & biscuits. We reach Richmond, meet Grace’s friendly black Lab mix Watson, visit a while, then I check e-mail and weather for tomorrow’s drive. Uh-oh! The supposedly “moisture-free” clipper of previous forecasts has instead spawned Winter Storm “Janus,” expected to bring heavy snow along our driving route tomorrow. It seems best to go further north today to stay ahead of the storm (reports from the next day confirm this was a wise decision). So we bid a reluctant adieu to Grace’s Rest Stop. Some traffic getting past Washington (GPS Penelope directs us well), then a truck spreading something for “Pre-Storm Treatment,” several signs warning of “Winter Weather,” many semis parked in rest stops and along the road. But still feeling alert, we keep going . . . and going . . . until we finally reach home at 2:15am (night-owl Marjorie drives the last 2 hours), 969 miles from Charleston! Signs of the North: light snow cover, about 10°, lots of salt residue on the roads. But it’s good to be home.

          A wonderful trip, our longest in time (18 days) and driving distance (3938 miles altogether, 10 states). Good opportunities to see friends, old and new. Lots to do in and around Sarasota; and not bothered by crowds  ̶  February is peak time. Florida remains a good place to visit, tho we still don’t want to live there. The combination of 3 winter storms (when did they start naming these?), a “polar vortex,” and an “armada of clippers” yielded some weather variety, w/ temps from 20s to 80s. But we were able to work around cooler/wetter days, driving conditions were about as good as we could have hoped for, and we had fabulous conditions when it mattered most. Many thanks to Queen Kay for inviting us, and to our other friends for their hospitality.