Istanbul & Western Turkey

 We've visited Turkey twice. Our first trip focused on Istanbul. That was so interesting that we just had to see more! So our second trip covered considerable ground in western Turkey. Both trips are reported below.

Istanbul

February 2006

 

Where’s Moldova?  What’s aubergine?  These and other questions will be answered here.  But let’s start at the beginning.  The seed was planted last spring, when a Turkish sociologist contacted me (as Chair of Sociology) about giving a talk on his research on human rights.  Recep, wife Nuray, daughter Hatice (age 10), and sons Furkan (8) & Ali Ishan (3) were in nearby Troy for a year on family matters.  As it happens, one of our favorite eateries, Ali Baba, is a Turkish restaurant in Troy.  Friendship grew from several dinners and other activities.  When they left Recep suggested “Turkish coffee along the Bosphorus” for our next meeting.  I don’t need much prodding about trips, the prospect of visiting such a fascinating place with friends to show us around was too good to pass up.  Add in a “Lonely Planet” guidebook, suggestions from son Matt & Anthea’s friend (and their wedding photographer) Murat, and things began to come together.  There were some subplots.  Two January bird flu deaths in Turkey led to talks with “infectious disease” people and a look at the Center for Disease Control website.  No one advised against travel, just precautionary tips: wash hands regularly, don’t play with chickens.  Recep said they’re advised not to eat chicken, otherwise things seem OK.  Also Muslim protests about Danish cartoons with the image of Muhammad, a serious breach of their strictures.  We usually avoid highlighting our Americanism when overseas for political reasons; guess we also shouldn’t appear to be Danish  ̶  Oh, Canada?  Then a week before our trip NYC was hit with record snowfall; the only airport mishap a Turkish Airline jet sliding off the runway (no injuries).  Who do you suppose our flights are with?

Nonetheless, we’re very excited and so ready for a trip!  Marjorie’s Art Auction has kept her hopping for long hours, it’s been an especially busy year of Chair duties for me.  Marjorie takes the train to NYC Thursday to help with grandson William while Matt & Anthea have busy schedules.  Thursday night Recep’s brother-in-law Mehmet brings some books for us to take over (sociology, of all things!), I drive down after class on Friday.  We celebrate William’s first birthday Friday night.

Saturday, 2/18:

            Crisp & cold, a cold front w/ high winds yesterday.  But favorable Istanbul forecast in the high 50s.  Matt’s off for a busy day, including his first concert w/ Talujon percussion ensemble (sorry to miss that).  Diner breakfast w/ Anthea & William; William’s quite a flirt, a hit with the waitress from earlier visits.  William and grandcat Lucy help with final packing, or are they unpacking?  Hoyt’s car service for ride to JFK; took a card from friendly Ecuadoran driver to arrange pickup when we return.  Flight leaves about 6pm.

Sunday, 2/19:

            As usual the flight is too long & cramped  ̶  and imagine: no individual screens at our seats for movie choices!  “Memory foam” and down pillows from Anthea’s mother Pamela give some extra comfort.  It’s a smooth ride: 9 hours + 7 hours time difference, coming in over Sea of Marmara to arrive a bit early into Ataturk Airport at 10am.  Passport check OK, have to each get a visa for $20 (we were warned to have exact American $ for this).  Then what a treat: the whole family to greet us, a poster by Hatice welcoming “Aunty Marjorie and Uncle Russ,” complete with Istanbul scenes & symbols.  From then on we feel and are treated like visiting royalty!  ATM stop for local currency (new Turkish lira (YTL) = $.76, which also = 1 million old lira (TL), plus there’s YKR to represent cents; whew!: different currency references a bit confusing at first).  Then all squeeze into Recep’s VW, off to Istanbul!  Cloudy & cool (40s).  Past old city walls and many ships waiting for night when they’re allowed to go up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea.

To Hotel Empress Zoe, Lonely Planet’s best “Ottoman hotel” (small hotels with traditional decor); the book also calls Zoe their favorite empress, a “feisty Byzantine” of the 11^th C.  Pretty murals thruout, garden courtyard between our room and breakfast room, several buildings connect around domes of an old hamam (bath) (Note: Turkish alphabet includes many symbols, Cyrillic I think, this writer too lazy to reproduce).  Very narrow winding staircases to reach rooms.  Centrally located in historic Sultanahmet district: we see Aya Sophya dome and minarets from our room, rooftop terrace offers partial sea and historic area views, Topkapi Palace a block away. 

 No TV, so we miss news updates and seeing programming in another country.  But Marjorie gives 4 stars to the shower, a more important matter, plus heated bathroom floor a nice touch.  Very helpful, friendly staff.  Breakfast buffet is excellent: variety of breads, preserves, fruit, tomatoes and cucumbers, cheese, olives, etc.; Marjorie gets recipe for yummy citrus bread, promises to send a recipe in trade.  Nobody here seems to drink the tap water, mainly due to taste; hotel starts us off with 2 bottles of water, then we get a jug from nearby market.

Our usual adrenaline rush has us rarin’ to go, Recep & family eager to start showing us Istanbul.  A short walk past Topkapi and first view of the “fountains” common here  ̶  not spouting in the air fountains, they’re kiosk structures w/ pretty tiles and other decorations & faucets for ablution. 

Here are more views of fountains. 

To a pretty park area, Aya Sophya at one end, Blue Mosque at other, Hippodrome w/ obelisks and other sculptures to the side.  

Into Basilica Cistern, a huge underground water storage cavern dating to 6^th C, supported by rows of immense stone pillars, still holds water plus eerie lighting.  Says cave-lover Marjorie: “This is really cool!”  Briefly into a sultan’s family tomb, including many children.  
   





Lunch at Sultanahmet Koftecisi for famous best-in-the-world kofte (meatballs, tho they look more like sausages).  We eat upstairs: Lonely Planet says men tend to dominate 1^st floors of eateries, families/couples/women often prefer 2^nd floor (aile salonu).  Dessert of irmik helva (semolina pastry).  Recep says we must have Turkish coffee (or tea) after such a nice meal, so into a cafe along the Hippodrome.  

Then to the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii, camii = mosque), which has 6 minarets, reflecting its place in the succession of sultans when constructed.  As expected at mosques, we remove shoes outside, Marjorie covers her head with a scarf when we enter.  Beautiful stained glass windows and iznik tiles.  Recep explains layout, pulpits, symbols, other details.  Near one doorway is beautiful calligraphy that describes Muhammad in words, without proscribed pictures.  Calls to prayer from all around as we walk back to the hotel.
Recep drives us to Spice Bazaar  ̶  Oops, closed (foreshadowing tomorrow).  We bid the family goodnight.  They’re giving a party for other visitors tonight and it’s Nuray’s birthday, so it was especially nice of them to spend time w/ us this PM.  They invite us, but we’re sure to be party poopers when our energy runs down.  Into nearby Rustem Pasa Camii: a smaller “gem,” again with beautiful tiles thruout and characteristic low hanging lights.   

Nearby market area provides our 1^st experience with assertive shopkeepers.  Marjorie looks at vanilla beans and makes new buddies: some apple tea (seems to be the deal-making drink), she buys a few things, hugs & photos before we leave.  We call it quits as it starts to drizzle.  Tram ride back to hotel vicinity (token = jeton).  Just enough energy for a light meal at recommended Magnaura Cafe near the hotel, sharing meze plate of cold salads & very tender lamb kebap.  Marjorie’s noticed lots of cats running wild.  Recep tells us later cats have a special place and are fed in public to follow the example of Muhammad.  Our hotel has Jasper, a large domestic cat who rules the roost.  Marjorie chats w/ 3 other guests about shopping intelligence, especially carpet possibilities.  Then finally to bed.

Monday, 2/20:

            Hotel very quiet, but awakened about 6am by calls to prayer from nearby mosques.  A beautiful 1^st AM, sunny all day w/ temps to 55-60.  At breakfast we join Paula & Jennifer from last night.  Affiliated w/ the American embassy in Moldova (yep, that’s a real country, tucked between Romania & Ukraine), they provide details of a carpet store embassy people go to (see Tuesday for the predictable outcome of this info). 

          Recep meets us, then TAKSi to the “Golden Horn.”  It’s the crossroads of Europe and Asia  ̶  we ferry across the Bosphorus to Uskudar on the Anatolian (Asia Minor) side.  Beautiful views of the city, ships, ferries, small fishing boats. 

Into Mihrimah Sultan Camii.  Marjorie buys simple prayer beads outside.  This mosque built by a sultan’s wife: sultans share title w/ wife and mother; Recep says even now Turkish man may call his wife hanim sultan (lady sultan).  Very pretty interior, especially the stained glass windows.  I ask Recep to translate a plaque, thinking it might be a saying from Muhammad: turns out it says “Our mosque under surveillance by cameras.”  We’ve learned mosques are built w/ baths nearby (the one here now a supermarket), may also sponsor such services as hospitals.  We look into an affiliated clinic nearby and are given toothbrushes as a welcome.  Past excavation for subway to connect European and Asian sides; quite an undertaking, and of course you can’t scratch the surface here without uncovering antiquities. 

          We meet Nuray, Ali Ishan, and their friend Aisha visiting from NYC (she lives just around the corner from our friend Sarah!).  A stroll along the waterfront: expansive harbor and city views, sea gulls (called “eagles” here) & cormorants, fishermen.  Recep wants us to see the view from Maiden’s Tower (w/ a Rapunzel-type story) by the shore  ̶  Oops, closed Mondays except for weddings.  We drive to a hill overlooking Istanbul and the harbor, w/ a tea stop.  Then on to Recep’s office at the Center for Islamic Studies (ISAM); he’s just published a book using network analysis to track the historical diffusion of Muhammad’s teachings.  A wonderful Turkish lunch at the ISAM cafeteria.  We’re learning the WC arrangements by now: Bay for men, Baya for women; sometimes seats, sometimes only a hole in the floor, sometimes a choice. A palace tour was planned next  ̶  Oops, closed Mondays.  

 We go shopping instead (always an option) at a Pasabahce glass outlet.  Signs say Sok fiyat (shocking prices)!  Marjorie finds a few odds & ends, Nuray makes us a very special gift of a set of the delicate glasses used for tea here, a special brewing pot, plus tea and tiny teaspoons.  Then a drive along the very blue Bosphorus, past old Ottoman fortresses to guard against invasion from the Black Sea, to the Palace of the Governors of Egypt  ̶  Oops again, closed Mondays. 

            [Poor Recep, maybe he’s not so good with schedules.  But today & thruout our visit he’s a wonderful guide, relating many historical and cultural details.  Some things don’t fit our expectations.  For example, there is now very distinct separation of religion from public life.  Interestingly, imams are paid by the government, all receive the same sermon to give on Fridays (this would have saved Bill Jessop, my stepfather & a Methodist minister, some late Saturday nights finishing sermons).  Recep points out shared histories of Islam w/ Judaism & Christianity, relates various teachings of Muhammad; e.g., “Who is a good Muslim?  Someone who does not harm others by tongue or by hand.” Or the merchant’s prayer: “The one who earns his own living is the beloved of God.”]

We stroll the palace grounds.  Lots of birds, crow-sized, gray w/ dark heads (I later learn from a birder friend these are “jackdoors,” a European crow, referenced in some of Shakespeare’s writing).  Very noisy; Ali Ishan keeps yelling (in Turkish) “Why are you screaming at us?”  With the palace closed, there seems to be no choice but to go shopping again.  Marjorie always likes to poke around local groceries, Aisha excited to learn this new travel activity.  A visit to “Maxi Mega-Market” yields tea, chocolate, cookies, colorful socks for William, other little items. 

We pass “Fatso Burger” on our way to the highest point in Istanbul (former site of sultan’s summer house) for much nicer dinner plans.  Sun has set, pretty lights in the trees, spectacular sweeping views of Istanbul along the Bosphorus at night.  A wonderful meal at Camlica Korusu, sharing a variety of dishes (but still apparently not serving chicken).  Two distinctive yummy Turkish dessert treats: asure, a fruit & nut “stew” purportedly dating to Noah’s Ark, sahlep, a grain-based mystery beverage w/ an interesting taste.

 Afterward to Kosca, which makes the best helva (distinctive sesame munchies) and lokum (so-called “Turkish delight,” a sort of nougat candy).  Then to Recep & Nuray’s apartment in Cengelkoy (Asian side up the Bosphorus north of the city).  Turkish tea  ̶  steeped in a double-decker, served in pretty glasses (that also get quite hot to hold!)  ̶  warm helva, baclava w/ pistachios, good company.  A very pleasant way to finish a busy, interesting, fun first full day.

Tuesday, 2/21:

It’s bazaar day!  Another beautiful sunny day  ̶  people keep telling us about the cold & snow here a week or two ago.  Four Seasons Hotel is just above us, so we do some gawking.  This was a prison depicted in “Midnight Express” (that movie just about killed tourism here for a while), now it’s quite lovely: pretty courtyard, bouquets of tulips & roses (the city’s floral symbols)   

A block further up, pretty AM sun on Aya Sophya and the Blue Mosque.  “Touts” for shops already out to greet tourists and drum up interest in their goods.  A stroll thru Arasta Bazaar, small open-air market by the Blue Mosque, but most shops not open yet. 

So it’s on to the main event, the Grand Bazaar, the most famous souq in the world.  Amazing!  Under one huge roof-covered area are several kilometers of lanes, a couple of “main streets” w/ mazes of alleys branching off, some 4,000 shops plus restaurants, banks, police stations, etc.  Some areas predominantly carpets or gold or silver or leather, there’s so many options!  And touts everywhere: friendly, amusing, assertive, annoying, intrusive.  Lonely Planet advises being in the right mood to “swap friendly banter” as they have in markets here for centuries.  The touts have some standard ploys to take advantage of your polite instincts, calling out (or in parks sidling up and walking with you)  ̶  “where you from,” “something for the nice lady?,” “just one more carpet?”  ̶  to engage in conversation, then reel you in; I learn not to shake offered hands  ̶  they don’t want to let you go!  They’re all men; women much less evident and less assertive roles in the markets. 

Hadn’t intended to do carpet-buying, but tips from fellow hotel guests lead to their favored merchant, Gul Kuyumculuk, where we have “embassy referral” for “embassy prices.”  By now we know what we want at what price, and going to a place we can trust allows us to enjoy the “experience.”  As foretold we’re taken to the main store nearby outside the bazaar, where many carpets brought out to zero in on Marjorie’s likes and dislikes while we sip apple tea in a relaxed friendly atmosphere.  She selects a smaller kilim for a wall hanging  ̶  made by Armenian Kurds w/ Noah’s Ark design  ̶  plus some pretty pillow covers.  Very reasonable total of $200, about 1/3 of marked prices, everything packed into a handy carrying case (suitable as carry-on for flights).  Customer photos on walls include Bushes & Clintons, and now Marjorie?  Back into the bazaar, Marjorie getting into the swing of bargaining and repartee.  She finds (for herself, family, friends) lovely pashmina scarves, magnets & pendants w/ a common eyeball symbol to ward off the “evil eye,” pretty little ceramic bowls, beaded bracelets, none very expensive.  (By the way, I’ve found a few things in our wanderings, including a calligraphy magnet for the travel collection in my office, some goodies to share w/ staff.)  Cafe Ambrosia for light lunch of “mixed tost” (grilled sandwich with meat), then back to our hotel amid prayer calls from several mosques. 

           After a little break, ready for more, so a tram ride to the Spice Bazaar.  But first into nearby Yeni “New” Camii (well, it was new in 1600), again w/ beautiful tiled interior. 

Very colorful displays of many spices at the bazaar; Marjorie gets a few things, we pass on “Turkish viagra.”  We share a tasty sade simit (part bagel, part pretzel) while wandering nearby maze of alleyways and shops.  There are places to buy almost anything, but not the interest or quality of other market areas.  Can’t find a mosque we’re looking for, but decide it’s like Irish castles: you can’t see them all, but whatever you see will be wonderful. 

 Back to Sultanahmet area and Cigdem Pastanesi, which Lonely Planet says has “the most heavenly” baclava.  We find Caferaga Medressesi, an artistic educational foundation near Topkapi Palace.  Interesting display of handiwork by nomadic women, then we see some of the student artwork.  One technique common here is ebru, paint spread on water then paper placed on top to yield “marbling.” We buy a traditional example w/ a tulip design, plus very abstract note cards by a friendly student.  On the way back to our hotel a stop into the Baths of Lady Hurrem, a 16^th C hamam now a carpet shop run by the Ministry of Culture.  A pretty but cold interior!  I get English newspaper for Olympic news; headline: bird flu spreading in Europe.

  Marjorie chats w/ hotel guest Charlotte, one of her earlier shopping informants, who tells about a tout who went from annoying to bordering on stalking; happily, she was able to discourage his advances.  Off to dinner amid calls to prayer, passing pretty lighted Aya Sophya and Blue Mosque, to Karadeniz aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu, a good Lonely Planet tip.  I bump my head on low doorway (2^nd time today); friendly owner is solicitous, points to his bald head  ̶  I’ll have to be more careful!  A nice neighborhood place, table full of police next to us.  We have iskender & beyti kebaps, pide (bread) w/ cheese, local beer EFES Pilsen.  Owner shakes hands and proclaims “friends” when we leave.  An enjoyable day w/ interesting shopping experiences.  Considering yesterday & today Marjorie already making plans to fit things into luggage by jettisoning stuff: our usual old travel clothes & underwear, my second pair of shoes that are well past their prime  ̶  good thing I have a ticket and can carry things, or she might jettison me.

Wednesday, 2/22:

            Another sunny day, tho a bit cooler.  We head right to Topkapi Palace to have enough time for this complex.  Past armed guards and thru metal detectors. 

Not crowded early, more people & school groups later.  We rent audio guide for details on what we see.  Palace arranged around 4 “courts,” open courtyards w/ buildings around.  We begin with kitchen exhibits.  Then the Armory: fierce weapons, helmets & armor, an imposing sword of Mehmet the Conqueror (of Constantinople).  

A guided tour of the Harem; these are private family quarters, not just for “concubines.”  No longer furnished and a bit bare, but beautiful tiling and other decor.  Small spaces for eunuchs and most women; more opulent for Sultan & Queen Mother.  As Mel Brooks might say, “It’s good to be Sultan (and his mother).”  Resident sultans ranged from Mehmet & Suleyman the Magnificent to Selim the Sot & Ibrahim the Mad.  Eunuchs were often powerful administrators, but don’t know that it was good to be one.  Displays of religious relics, including materials from Muhammad’s tomb and hair from his beard. Continuous reading of Koran in one room. 

        Lunch at an outdoor cafeteria terrace overlooking the Bosphorus going into Sea of Marmara: grape leaves, bread w/ spinach, yogurt/dill/cucumber salad.  

  Lastly into the Treasury w/ incredible baubles, thrones, bejeweled swords.  Items include the arm & scull of St. John the Baptist encased in jewels; a gold-plated case for Muhammad’s jacket; Koran binding w/ rubies, emeralds, gold; 2 candlesticks w/ combined 100 kg of gold and thousands of diamonds; spectacular Topkapi dagger (the plot line for 1960s movie “Topkapi”); an 86-carat diamond surrounded by 49 other diamonds; a suit of armor w/ gold, diamonds, other gemstones.  Wow!  Workers planting tulip bulbs along walkways as we leave.  Back to the hotel to rest our tootsies a bit  ̶  hills and cobblestones here are hard on the feet.

            Refreshed, it’s on to Aya Sophya (aka Sancta Sophia, Haghia Sofia, Church of the Divine Wisdom).  Built by Justinian in 6^th C, the “greatest church in Christendom” until Constantinople fell to the Ottomans in 1453 and converted to a mosque.  Made into a museum by Ataturk in 1934.  As at Topkapi we decline help from independent “guides” hovering at the entrance  ̶  Lonely Planet gives good details to guide us.  
Magnificent gold mosaics (including our Empress Zoe seated next to Christ) and incredible dome; it’s an architectural wonder w/o visible supports (tho it’s had to be rebuilt after an earthquake or two).  Scaffolding for restoration obscures a good part of the dome, but the magnitude of the scaffolding impressive in its own right.  We wonder: how do they decide which to preserve, Christian or Muslim?  For example, there are large Muslim calligraphy plaques on walls, which some think too intrusive and a source of some Muslim-Christian disagreement.  Old stone ramp winds up to a gallery level w/ better views of mosaics.

            Back to the hotel, by a café where the guy keeps asking us to stop in  ̶  so, finally, we stop in for cappuccino. Marjorie bought 2 more carpets today, 9 X 12 (inches, that is, suitable for miniature rooms).  Another excellent hotel staff recommendation for dinner nearby: Albura Restaurant.  Very chilly tonight, we enjoy a table right under a heater.  Interesting wall decorations: a well-known National Geographic photo of young girl w/ large smoldering eyes, famous Ottoman painting of Hamdi Baba “Teacher of Turtles” (they’re gathered around his feet), 1923 Time cover of Mustafa Kemal (known as Ataturk, meaning “Father Turk”).  Turkish version playing of Eagle’s “Hotel California.”  A friendly waiter and the young owner is sitting by us.  A very enjoyable and tasty experience.  Hummus appetizer Matt would love.  Lentil soup (a staple here, we’ve enjoyed the variations).  Harem’s Charm, lamb wrapped in aubergine (which we finally learn is eggplant).  To top it off: dondurmali kazandibi, yummy ice cream over a custardy cake.

Thursday, 2/23: 

            Cool, foggy, overcast at first, then another sunny warm day.  A short walk to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art along the Hippodrome, in an old palace (more recently a prison).  Interesting mix of ethnology, archeology, fine art.  Lots of stuff: very old prayer rugs & carpets, beautiful calligraphy (considered a high art form here), illuminated Korans and beautiful Koran boxes, iznik tiles seen in mosques and other buildings, incredibly ornate documents.  To the lower floor, which we’d been alerted not to miss: nomadic yurts (huts) and goat hair tents, exhibits on looms and natural dyes for carpets, historical dioramas. 

            We decide to head north of the Golden Horn to Beyoglu district.  A favorite area of Murat’s, but I left his walking tour info at the hotel so we’ll have to wing it.  Bus from Sultanahmet over the Golden Horn, past big soccer stadium, to Taksim Square.  All roads (or at least all buses) seem to lead to this very busy spot.  Interesting “Walk” signs: little legs on a figure actually move, it shows # of seconds until the light changes.  A more modern cosmopolitan area than we’ve seen so far, very NYC-ish. 

            And we can stroll the main avenue, Istiklal Cadd., and browse w/o the hassling by touts in the old markets.  Lunch at Taksim Sutis, a pretty little café: shared salad, tost w/ cheese, yummy ofirin sutlak (creamy baked rice pudding).  Calls to prayer even here amid crowds and commercialism.  We select an assortment of chocolates for tonight (at what we later learn is a very famous confectioner  ̶  a big hit!).  On the bus back a woman expresses displeasure to a man talking loud on a cellphone  ̶  you go girl!  Then her own rings, but she turns it off.

          

  We meet Recep, return to Grand Bazaar and a high-school friend’s jewelry shop: Omer Asim Oztop and business Hasi Burhan Ltd. started by father.  A lovely man who travels to the US regularly, recently in Rochester.  Maybe we can be his reps in upstate NY?  Another enjoyable shopping experience, lubricated with apple tea (hmmm: is there something in the tea that makes you more receptive?).  Marjorie finds 2 very distinctive silver bracelets plus earrings for Anthea; only 50 YTL, we suspect these are wholesale prices for Recep’s friends.  We learn more about the history of this area: a few very old squares are w/in the larger Bazaar, there was a major fire in 1957.  Omer’s 2^nd shop has a back room full of beads.  Then to his larger wholesale store w/ 6,000 different beads  ̶  this would be the envy of Marjorie’s jeweler friends.  More apple tea plus cookies.  As if he hasn’t been generous enough, Omer gives us 2 CDs of Turkish music and a DVD about whirling dervishes.  Back to the Bazaar, M gets more pashmina scarves for friends & pretty fabric for pillows.  Not done yet!  On to a book market next to Istanbul Univ.  We get some calligraphy note cards, Recep translates.  Into nearby Beyazit Camii, then a scare when we come out: Marjorie doesn’t have the bag with today’s purchases!  Whew: it’s at the book store.

            Time to head to Recep and Nuray’s.  A packed ferry on a very cold night to Uskadar, then a wild TAKSi ride to Cengelkoy.  Hatice & Furkan present us w/ a signed book about Muhammad’s life, a very special gift!  Then a marvelous feast for visiting royalty (guess that’s us, plus Aisha of course): lamb chops & rice, pickled beans, dolma (stuffed onions, peppers, eggplant), celery root stew, icli kofte (fried meatballs), cherry juice (a favorite here, we get more on the flight home).  Omer, his wife, and their 2 youngest children join us; Grandma Marjorie quickly scoops the 5-month-old into her lap.  Turkish tea & “wet cookies” (soaked in syrup) for dessert.  Recep insists on stopping for baklava to take back for us and his sister & brother-in-law in Troy; his mother’s visiting them but forgot her glasses, so we’ll squeeze those in too.  We also take back some traditional herbal medicines for his sister.  Omer drives us back to the hotel; a pretty drive, mosques lit up across the city skyline.

Friday, 2/24:

            Marjorie has successfully met the packing challenge!  Everything fits, so I don’t have to wear every piece of clothing on the flight.  A few extra purchases on behalf of co-worker Sue who asked Marjorie to shop for her; “I’m spending Sue’s money” was heard thruout the markets.  Good thing we brought an empty soft-sided duffel.  Chilly AM, a little rain (heard later it rained a lot, Aisha complained we used up the good weather).  TAKSi to the airport, where we don’t find long lines.  X-ray and security right as we enter the terminal, security staff w/ questions at the check-in counter like: “Any appliances repaired in Turkey?”  There’s a prayer room next to the duty-free shop.  Like other European airports we wait outside gate lounge until boarding.  Off a little before noon for somewhat longer flight going west.  We’re given a little bag w/ socks, toothbrush, comb, shoehorn to enhance our comfort.  Flights not very full, so empty seats to stretch out  ̶  Marjorie takes full advantage to get a good nap.  Arrive JFK about 2:30pm, early again!  Easily thru passport check and customs.  Cold & windy here.  Some confusion before connecting with Hoyt’s limo guy.  A short visit w/ Anthea & William, then into Manhattan to get my keys from Matt  ̶  some confusion about when we were getting back, so he still had them.  Smooth tho tired ride up the Thruway, home at 9pm.

What a fabulous trip!  Istanbul’s fascinating & “exotic” from our cultural standpoint.  Marvelous experiences, shopping, eating, etc.  Wonderful new friends Aisha  & Omer.  And Recep & Nuray and their lovely children were so warm, generous, and hospitable  ̶  we kept thinking, “We’re not worthy!”  Cok tesekkur ederim (thank you very much).We look forward to returning the hospitality when folks come to the US.  Of course, we couldn’t do everything  ̶  no Turkish bath or whirling dervishes.  Next time.

Touring Turkey

Spring 2012

  Previously on “The Travels of Marjorie and Russ” . . . We visited Istanbul in ‘06 after striking up a friendship with a Turkish family visiting the Capital District.  Reçep & Nuray and their children were so hospitable showing us around Istanbul, contributing to a fascinating experience that left us wanting to return to see more.  That has been further stimulated by other Turkish connections.  Funda, an Albany Symphony violinist, has been an ASO “B & B” guest & friend for some 10 years.  More recently we’ve participated in events w/ the Turkish Cultural Center of Albany, partly because my Sociology colleague Sam’s husband Reçai (in Public Health) is from Turkey.  So we’re eager to explore more of Türkiye.  Coincidentally, a number of friends/colleagues are traveling to Turkey this summer, but we’ll be ahead of the rush; and we’ve timed it for right after the semester ends to (hopefully) beat the summer heat.

   Our Istanbul trip was done independently, like most of our travels, but sometimes when there are greater distances and complexities I’ve let others handle the hassles of arranging so many details.  We’ve had good experiences w/ air/hotel packages from Gate1travel.com (for Greece & Barcelona), and they’ve proven to be quite organized and congenial, so we feel comfortable doing an escorted trip w/ them.  One threat to the trip: during March I had much pain from neck disc degeneration that pinched a nerve (tho my research and teaching are gerontological, this was a way too personal aging experience!); but it seems under control mostly thanks to physical therapist Kim, and I’ll follow my exercise regimen during the trip.

Thursday, May 24:

    With apologies to Dionne Warwick: ♫“Do you know the way to JFK?”♫  Marjorie has found a new way for us:  We leave Albany at 7am to drive to Poughkeepsie, where friends Marlene & Frank will watch over our car (and serendipitously, Marlene uses our car when her car is in the shop for a week  ̶  seems a fair exchange).  Marlene drives us to the train station (and sends us off w/ yummy fruit bars!) to catch Metro North to NYC.  A sign says “Good Service,” and we’re off at 9:40am.  A cloudy but pretty ride along the Hudson: West Point, Bear Mtn., Tappan Zee Br.; I resist taking photos, gotta keep my focus on Turkey.  Into Grand Central, raining hard but we’re hustled onto a shuttle bus ready to leave for a quick ride to JFK, arriving 12:30.  Check-in and security don’t take long, we settle in at our gate.  We could start our Turkic food experience at “Eat and Go Istanbul/NY,” but I get a scone instead.  We board on time at about 5:30pm, things are going so smoothly . . . but we sit at the gate for an hour, then in a long line of taxiing planes for another hour (we learn later there were some 40 planes lined up).  So much for our comfortable 2 hours between flights in Rome.

Friday, May 25:

            Flight is smooth, but 10am arrival in Rome is shortly after our connecting flight has left for Istanbul.  Alitalia is not able (or not willing, anyway) to get us out until 11:40pm, so we have a lovely day ahead in the airport. M has wanted to get back to Rome, but not this way, and it doesn’t seem feasible to try to get into the city.  Someone helps us call Gate1 to leave a message about our flight change, but Alitalia won’t put us on any earlier flights with other airlines, and we’re unsuccessful in pleading for access to their business/first-class lounge (gotta keep the riff-raff out!).  They do provide ristorante vouchers.  Tooth-brushing & a shave to freshen up, then some complexity figuring out what we can get w/ our vouchers  ̶  we manage to share a lunch and later a dinner at Ciao: not a bad place, more comfortable seating than the gates, tasty pesto pasta.  We won’t miss anything today on our tour except orientation dinner, and we can probably figure things out.  Thought we’d be stranded w/ others from our tour, but we appear to be the only ones.  Departure about 40 minutes late, into Istanbul at 1:30am (pretty lighted ships and coast as we come in).  Passport check, visa purchase ($20 apiece), a very loud altercation by some young men in the passport area.  Hooray!: our luggage is here.  Coming out of baggage claim there’s our new best friend holding up a Gate1 sign!  We’re impressed: they sent a van just for us.  It’s not exactly “All’s well that ends well,” but it is a happy ending to a difficult day.  To our Mosaic Hotel and in bed by 3.

Saturday, May 26: 
             An unexpected 6:30am tour-group wake-up call!  Marjorie takes a while to focus.  The hotel is quite nice, amenities suitable for a tour group, tho it lacks the ambience of the more historic Hotel Empress Zoe where we stayed on our previous visit.  A bit of magic: here and other hotels hallways are dark but lights come on ahead as you walk.  I go out on the 5^th floor terrace, cool & partly cloudy, some first panoramic photos of mosques all around, harbor & ships in the distance.  Across the street for 1^st ATM stop to get Turkish lira (1 TL = $.55).  Then our 1^st buffet breakfast: cheeses & cold cuts, tomatoes & olives, breads, cereals, usually some sort of eggs, etc.  We meet some people in our group, some were also caught in the JFK snarl, but we were the latest to get here.  We connect w/ guide Serap, who gives us name and luggage tags.  She seems very nice. 

  A city tour this AM, stuff we’ve done  ̶  and M isn’t interested in doing the Grand Bazaar or Spice Market again, we had such good personalized experiences last time.  But we start out with the group, past the Sea of Marmara and old city walls to the Hippodrome and Blue Mosque.  Much more crowded than our February visit, construction in the park areas.  In the Blue Mosque (shoes carried in plastic bags provided at the entrance) Serap begins her efforts to orient us to Islam.  She says this is the 4^th largest dome in the world, some 1,000 years older than others (such as St. Peter’s in Rome).  It’s a beautiful interior, with 22,000 iznik tiles.  Now we go rogue, taking off our name tags and heading out on our own.  

 To Yerebaten Cistern, one place M is eager to repeat: an underground cistern constructed by Constantine, pillars, evocative lighting, eerie music, fish that might seem like Gollum of Lord of the Rings.  Much more crowded, we had the place almost to ourselves before, but still very beautiful and meditative. 

We walk back toward the hotel, taking in the sights & smells, colorful women’s scarves, store windows w/ displays of pastries & candies.  Briefly thru one side of the immense covered Grand Bazaar (Frommer’s: “the mother of all tourist traps”). 

A busy plaza and archway, many people & pigeons, at the entrance to Istanbul University.  We can’t enter the campus; shoulda brought my faculty ID.  A light meal across from the hotel, w/ refreshing EFES Pilsen (which is omnipresent during our travels).  A globalization moment: we’re in Istanbul, eating in the Zurich Hotel, listening to “Danny Boy.”  We watch street activity and what seems a permanent traffic jam in narrow streets winding among many hotels and restaurants.  Son Matt (who lives in Queens) would have fun driving here: you have to assert yourself, squeeze thru, park wherever you can, much horn-honking. 

To our hotel for a brief nap, a call to worship being heard.  I can’t sleep, so a 10-minute walk to the Süleymaniye Mosque complex that looms high above the city.  Beautiful green & flowered surroundings, a lighter interior then the Blue Mosque, adjoining cemetery w/ pretty roses, a view overlooking waters of the Golden Horn.

A warm sunny afternoon, then perfect cool evening.  Reçep & Nuray, w/ daughter Hatice (sons Furkan & Ali Ishan have other activities), pick us up for dinner.  Up to the Süleymaniye Mosque complex. 

A quiet courtyard setting w/ excellent food selections.  We catch up on each other’s lives.  Reçep is now Director General and Dean of Graduate Studies for a new Civilizations program at Fatih Sultan Mehmet Vakif Üniversitesi (quite a mouthful!).  Nuray is due to have their 3^rd son in 3 weeks.  Hatice is quite the young woman, heading to her last year of high school; she & Marjorie will exchange their artwork, and Hatice draws the new Turkish lira symbol for us (a double-crossed, t-shaped anchor symbolizing “safe harbor”).  Calls to prayer echo over the city.  Reçep remains a guide par excellence, especially on details of architecture and symbolism.  After praying in the mosque, Reçep, Nuray, and Hatice head to a family engagement party, we stroll back to the hotel.  

Up to the terrace, beautiful colors (including red ships) in the lowering sun.  Wandering in the neighborhood, a patient young women helps us select a variety of baklava.  Back up to the terrace as the sun sets, lighted minarets, more prayer calls echoing, we soak in the Istanbul ambience.  Marjorie stays up long enough to watch wedding dancing on a nearby rooftop.  In the news (mostly BBC): 60^th anniversary Diamond Jubilee is approaching for Queen Elizabeth, “our most familiar enigma;” the Eurovision song title finals are also approaching, w/ 26 countries, Englebert Humperdinck (who knew he was still around!) competing for Great Britain, the “Russian Grannies” competing for the women’s title. 

Sunday: May 27:

            Mostly sunny, comfortable AM.  The 1^st driving day w/ a typical routine: 6:30 wake-up, 7 luggage out for pickup, 8 on the bus.  There are 2 bus groups w/ 40 in each: we’re A, B shadows us  ̶  sometimes a different hotel, sometimes ahead or behind our schedule.  The B guide is Sali’h (aka “Sali’h Baba and the 40 Tourists”).  Onto the bus to meet fellow travelers: 14 boisterous Russians (from NY/NJ) take over the back of the bus (tho we’ll be rotating seats each day), mother/daughter Maxine & Allyson from Montana will be our very congenial seat neighbors during the drives, 2 fun couples from an “active senior” community in Orlando, a friendly couple from CT, he teaches at Western New England College, to name a few for now.  Serap introduces driver Neçip & helper Irfan.  Then she has so much to tell us about the economy, culture, traditions, etc., etc. of Turkey!  I can offer only illustrative snippets in this account.  Serap has a Master’s in archeology, her special passion for this shows thruout the trip.  She’s participated in a number of excavations, tho her grandfather may have trumped her: he uncovered a sarcophagus (w/ skeleton and buried treasure of a 3000-year-old princess) while digging in his garden!  Now she tells us that 95% of cars here were made in Turkey, bus service is a specialty, family farming is emphasized.  

 Out of the city on a divided highway, into pretty agricultural countryside along the Sea of Marmara, lots of pretty roses along the highway.  Minarets of mosques seemingly always in view; the population is 99% Muslim, Serap says there are more mosques here (10,000 in Istanbul alone) than the rest of the world combined, some very large and ornate, others small and indistinguishable but for a small minaret.  Turkey is self-sufficient for food, world #1 for eggplant, also big in hazelnuts.

            Becoming cloudy, quite cool, some sprinkles as we make our first “rest” stop (these are well-timed thruout our travels).  Rest areas are quite elaborate: WCs (bay for men, bayan for women; some free, others cost 1 TL), a nice restaurant (for many of our lunches), gifts/souvenirs, often a market, sometimes even a mosque, and the bus gets a bath (a clean bus is a happy bus!).  On the road again Serap continues w/ history lessons.  Turks originated in nomadic groups in Central Asia & Mongolia.  The “Tulip Era” refers to heyday of the Ottoman Empire (reflected in tulips in a newer carpet in the Blue Mosque, apparently a source of some disagreement).  Thru rolling green countryside, rice fields, many cows/sheep/goats, later into hills w/ pine forests, bright yellow mustard flowers.  

 To Gelibolu (Gallipoli), a pretty little harbor w/ colorful boats and flower boxes.  Shoeshine units here (and everywhere).  We have lunch of töst (grilled cheese) from a kiosk; friendly operator asks: “Obama?  Good, no good?”  Trojan horses may be bought in many forms; M gets one for her miniatures case.  

 It was overcast, now sunny w/ nice warm temps, as we take feribot across the Dardenelles (connecting Sea of Marmara w/ Aegean Sea) from Europe to Asia, freighters passing by.  On the road again, many pine-nut & olive trees, hopefully past the pollen stage (M had allergy trouble in Greece).  And many pastel-colored apartment buildings, which we see all along our drives.

      

            Our 1^st archeological experience: Troia Örenyeri (Troy Archeological Site), where Serap has worked on excavations.  She relates Homer’s account (which must be true if Brad Pitt was Achilles), and the story of Schliemann, a controversial self-proclaimed archeologist who “bulldozed” his way into these ruins and made off w/ much treasure in the late 19^th C.  Still ongoing excavation, which seems true everywhere.  Serap says there are more excavations in Turkey than anywhere, so much that they can’t properly take care of everything.   

 Bright red poppies among the ruins, many cats (everywhere we go!  ̶  stepsister Mar would be in heaven), one very large beetle.  Want your photo taken w/ a Greek soldier?  And you can climb into the Trojan Horse.  Another beautiful place for a war (as so often seems the case).  M gets us an ice cream treat. 

To Çanakkale & Hotel Akol.  Bigger room, balcony w/ panoramic waterfront view (Tom from Orlando asks: “How’d you get the penthouse?”). 

            Promenade along the waterfront has the Trojan Horse used in the recent movie “Troy,” a scale model of Troy, some musicians, statues of 2 dwarves (Happy and Dopey, I think).  We get a small bottle of wine from a market to relax before dinner. 

  A buffet dinner, similar to what we have in all the hotels: a few entrees (chicken, fish, stuffed eggplant, etc.), but the main features are the arrays of cold salads to start and desserts to finish (I enjoy the variety of rice puddings and tasty tidbits soaked in honey).  A nice setting after so much driving.   

We stroll the promenade as the sun sets; many people and families, corn-on-the-cob, cotton candy (dispensers shaped like the Trojan Horse), colorful balloons.  Away from the bay there are lots of pretty markets. 

A call to prayer from a blue-lighted minaret along the curve of the bay.  Up to the rooftop bar for a final view. 

Monday, May 28:

            Early AM rain, rumbles of thunder; no sun block needed today?  “I Love Rock n Roll” plays during breakfast.  Why so much American music?  We’d like more local flavor.  Another mostly driving day.  Serap continues her lessons: Turkic language & grammar (the alphabet has no X, Q, or W), political and regional structure, basics of Islam, secular reforms initiated under Ataturk.  She notes changes in economy and lifestyle since the last military coup in the ‘80s.  Weather shifts around from bright cloudy to rain & fog in the mountains to brighter again.  A winding foggy ride over Mt. Ida, down to the Aegean Sea w/ views of the island of Lesbos.  Many olive & pine-nut trees.  Thru Olive City, here and other cities there are rows of apartment buildings w/ rooftop solar hot water tanks.  Between the foggy rain & lots of road construction it’s a tough drive.  Later I compliment driver Neçip and give him a thumbs-up (later learning this is apparently an obscene gesture here, but I’m sure he understood the well-meaning if stupid American). 

           Beautiful sun & blue sky now, comfortable temps.  We pass salt terraces, Serap says the usual “flamingos” aren’t here today, terraced tree plantings over former gold mines.  Lunch at a nice family-run place; we skip the buffet, go w/ pide, kebap, and beer.  In the store M finds “just the bag I was looking for” and gets a “1^st customer” discount; the bag receives compliments during the trip.  Serap nags us to use the WCs before getting back on the bus.  Owner Mr. Mehmet comes on the bus, sings and has us chime in on the chorus, waves goodbye as we leave.  

To Pergamum and the Asklepion, an ancient medical center for herbal remedies, mud & bathing treatments, interpretation of dreams, etc.  Serap relates issues w/ Germany, which possesses an entire temple removed from this site.  Local fauna: 3 friendly dogs (one 3-legged) eager for belly-scratching, many tiny frogs (apparently a recent hatch).  

 This is another relatively small site, but more than yesterday: columns, amphitheater, tunnels, etc., it looks more like people lived here.  There’s more atop a high hill, but not accessible now.  Parchment paper invented here when Egyptians stopped sending papyrus.  This was also home to the “Throne of Satan” of the Apocalypse.  Clouds & sprinkles as we finish  ̶  good timing!  Passing shopkeepers by the entrance: “Hello, please.  Pine nut honey?”  Sheds w/ tanks, jeeps, cannons next door.  

We have another 2 hours to Izmir . . . Uh, oh!  We’ve been pulled over by the polis.  Neçip does have a heavy foot, and (like most drivers here) tends to treat red lights and dur (stop) signs as only advisory; it’s also clear that pedestrians receive no quarter from drivers. But this is just a routine check of driver documentation.

            Into Izmir, Serap’s home and site of her 1^st excavation.  She says it’s also the “most Westernized city,” lots of traffic and noise.  Our Kaya Prestige Hotel is nice, but no view of note.  Out on the street past people selling everything from socks to nuts to mussels.  A short walk to Kizlaragasi Han Bazaar.  Less immense and touristy than Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar; very colorful and everyday goods for regular people.  Men playing backgammon here and in waterfront cafes; seems a popular amusement here.  

     Accordionists stroll, accompanied by little girls to collect tips; gypsies?   Past neighboring Starbucks and Erotic Shop to the waterfront but it’s not very interesting.  Into a small market to get some beer before dinner; no bottle opener, but I manage to pop the cap on a drawer handle; a rousing “My Hero!” cheer from thirsty M. 

A nice buffet dinner, live piano music, including “New York, New York” and various patriotic songs.  Happy Memorial Day!  In the news: Even Russia is distancing from the Syrian regime after a recent massacre.  And a TV ad for “Arabs Got Talent.” 

Tuesday, May 29:

          

          A beautiful sunny AM; lots of shorts in evidence.  The breakfast buffet includes honey still in the comb, and we take away some fruit & cheese for snacks during the day.  It’s a big dig day, w/ our 1^st optional tour: Full Day Ephesus and House of Virgin Mary.  M’s not much for archeological rock piles, but she loved Pompeii, yesterday got a thumbs-up (not the obscene one), Ephesus is considered 2^nd only to Pompeii.  Serap talks about the strong Turkish medical education and health care (she says some 9% of American doctors are from Turkey; I think of my Dr. Gumestop).  Past IKEA; Swedish meatballs a big item here (S: “We like to eat!”).   

Our schedule for today (and other times) has been rearranged to avoid the worst crowds: S has learned a cruise ship crowd will hit Ephesus this AM, so we’ll start w/ Meryemana (Mary’s House).  We pass a pretty founrtain, large wooded cemetery, olive (and other) tree farms, other fields, including pomegranate.  Other areas we’ve been thru have had lots of water from recent rains; much drier here, but still very fertile.  Occasional clusters of people working by hand in the fields.

            We’ve learned some of shared history and traditions of Islam & Christianity via events w/ the Turkish Cultural Center in Albany.  This becomes quite apparent today.  Serap says Mary is “Holiest of the Mothers” in Islam w/ her own chapter in the Koran.  It is believed that St. John came w/ Mary to Ephesus following the death of Jesus, and that Mary lived her last days at Meryemana.  The site was “discovered” in a vision by a blind German nun in the 19^th C, authenticated by Popes Paul VI (who announced this as a pilgrimage site in 1967) and John Paul II.  Our bus climbs way up high w/ spectacular views.  10 tour buses, a “normal” load, and not mobbed, actually a quite peaceful place. 
  

Beautiful trees over the walkway to the quite plain house, entry controlled (as at other sites) so not too many people at a time.  No interior photos allowed (I get a postcard to scan). 
A pretty interior altar.  

  Below the house are springs and what Serap calls the “Muslim Wailing Wall” of individual messages.  M asks a Franciscan to bless medals that we take home for gifts.  Leaving we pass shops w/ “Genuine Fake Watches” and men selling “original coins” (not likely, since found antiquities are tightly controlled).  

On to the Basilica of St. John, covering a large area (there were 6 domes).  Beautiful marble & flowers.  

 

Temple of Artemis ruins below, one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World, Roman castle above, old mosque w/ broken minaret below.  Panoramic views across the valley.  Spectacular!  And we’re not even to Ephesus yet.  A stork nesting atop a pillar as we leave. 

            And now for something completely different: We eschew a nearby “Outlet Center” on the way to a leather fashion show at Tol & Ar.  Beautiful smoldering young men & women walk a runway, pull Allyson, Leela (a young woman from Guyana, now Virginia), and one of the men from our group up to be models (they’re also beautiful but haven’t learned the smoldering look). 

We get a lesson on leather: lamb vs. sheep vs. “silk leather.”  Into the showroom, beautiful jackets & coats ranging from $200 to many $1000s.  A fun interlude, some purchases made (by others) to much fanfare on the bus.  On to a lovely lunch stop w/ büfe, and oh, those honey-soaked yummies!  Lots of birds: swallows’ nests perched around inside w/ babies, sparrows in a “bird condo” palm tree trunk outside.

            On to Ephesus, cruise people hopefully cleared out.  M follows Serap’s lead w/ an umbrella for shade, I pass up many chances to buy “sun hats.”  Bright sun but not hot, a nice little breeze.  Armed here (and elsewhere) w/ bottled water (supplies on the bus get major use: 2 bottles for 1 TL or 3 for 1$).  Lots of people, but doesn’t seem crowded.  Much history here, back to 1000 BC, even Amazons.  Like Pompeii, you can envision a city where people lived, w/ streets & buildings.  St. Paul began his missionary work in Turkey, came to Ephesus twice. 

 Serap points out 2000-year-old Christian symbols in roadway stone: IXƟYƩ.  And we’re walking on original marble stonework; S: “Watch your steps!”  A mosaic sidewalk, well-preserved lettering in stone, similarly well-preserved row seats at a public toilet.  The library is especially impressive, including tunnel to the brothel (also carved directions to the brothel along the roadway). 

 An arena seating 30,000 where Paul preached; more recent concerts here by Sting and Elton John.  This used to be a port city, but the Aegean is now 3 miles away.  

 Lots of cats, many shops to pass on the way out.  We’ve spent about 2 hours here.  A remarkable place, even more so given only 20% has been excavated!; most of the city remains buried in the hills and under the valley.  A lot of bang for the buck on this optional tour!

            Back to Izmir, lots of rush hour traffic; it’s good to have an assertive bus driver.  Out strolling, cooler now so jeans & jacket replace shorts.  A palm-lined boulevard w/ booths on both sides (first books, then jewelry etc.), walk-of-fame type stars in the walkway.  

 On our own for dinner, we pass on PizzaPizza, Burger King, and McD’s.  Into a little place for pita döner sandwiches to eat in our room; we have some difficulty explaining our take-out wishes to the friendly young men.  In the news: US housing market up, but consumer confidence down.

Wednesday, May 30:

            Günaydin (Good morning)!  We hear the ubiquitous 4:45am call to prayer, then our own 5:30 wake-up call, another long driving day ahead.  (Some would like less driving, others more time at some stops.  But escorted tours always entail compromises; no itinerary will completely please everyone; and there are always beautiful sights along the drives.)  We have some color from yesterday’s sun, but sun block has avoided sunburn.  Serap: “Did you pick up all the belongings?”  We go thru several traffic circles w/ sculptures (e.g., a unisphere).  Another beautiful, cool AM (16° C = 61° F).  

             A pretty drive, 1^st retracing to Ephesus, then farmland & olive trees spreading out to mountains on both sides.  Thru a 2-mile tünel.  We’ll be into the Teras Mtns, up to 6000’ today.  Many fig trees, pretty pink oleander along the highway, strawberries (w/ fields under canopies) and tobacco, more goats & sheep, interesting ramshackle houses, many red corrugated roofs.  At times we also see vans & tents along the side of country roads; maybe gypsies?  I’m trying to capture all this in photos from a moving bus!  Marble mines around here.  Lots of small fruit stands.  At a rest stop we see Sali’h, a big bear of a man, w/ a Bucky Badger t-shirt; other days it’s Minnesota Vikings, Princeton Tigers, etc. 

           Very different terrain, terraced hills, grain fields & corn, as we head to Hierapolis and Pamukkale.  Another bird condo in the corrugated roof over the entrance.  An orientation, then on our own for 2 hours; Serap very carefully explains how to get to the bus at the other end.  Another gorgeous day, sunny, warm, nice breeze.  First to the Hierapolis ruins up high overlooking the valley.  Especially beautiful flowers: roses (common thruout the trip), oleander, chamomile, rosemary, lavender, a field of red poppies.  

          Then the main event here, the natural-spring terraces of Pamukkale: bright white calcium deposits laced w/ other colors, 45° C (113° F) water for wading & bathing, if you wish (a few of our group venture in).  This had been practically ruined thru overuse by tourist hotels, has now been saved and protected as a World Heritage Site; though not nearly as much water flowing into and thru the pools as originally.  Spectacular views of the terraces spilling down to the valley below.  

Into a small museum, accompanied by a school group.  Some large pieces, but it’s especially impressive to imagine the work to excavate some very tiny objects on display.  

 To the nearby “Antique Pool,” a pretty area of landscaped swimming pools.  This whole complex seems a wonderful “water park” to spend the day.  You can also get a foot massage from little “doctor fish” nibbling your toes & feet.  We continue walking toward the other end, a cacophony of birds who swoop low right past us.  

 I use some time before boarding the bus to transcribe notes from my voice-recorder to a notebook, then look up to see I’m surrounded by friendly curious schoolchildren.  A “Grandpa Bill” moment (my stepfather seemed to be a kid magnet when traveling w/ my mother). 

 Back on the bus, Serap continues w/ more on Turkish history and culture, Turkish-Greek relations, Muslim burial and cemetery practices.  2:00 stop for a good cafeteria lunch; these lunch stops have all been quite reasonably priced.  We chat w/ an older couple from New Mexico; newlyweds (a year ago), she’s a retired Episcopal priest (learning my stepfather was a Methodist minister, she says jokingly that Methodists are “fallen Episcopalians”).  The Bay WC has a choice (like some others) of seat or hole in the floor.   

We drive up thru Teras mountains to a high rocky plateau and agricultural plain.  Mountains in the distance w/ some snow on top; they reach 10,000’ here w/ ski resorts.  This area reminds me of the high plateau region we travelled thru in Norway.  Past a quarry, terraced hills w/ tree plantings.  A last rest stop for today, quite chilly w/ a breeze. 

Then we head back down thru a rugged area to Mediterranean Sea level and Antalya on the “Turkish Riviera.” Antalya is not at all the coastal town I’d envisioned; ½ million population, much larger in summer.  Oranges grown around here are the city symbol  ̶  we see a giant one in a traffic circle.  Along a street lined w/ palm trees to Resort Dedeman Antalya, a resort and convention hotel right on the water.  We enter thru a metal detector (found in some other places) and a warning that bringing in outside food or drink isn’t allowed (Serap says just to keep things out of plain sight).  A large room, fabulous balcony view of the Mediterranean & mountains across the bay.  

 Dinner on a terrace (the most extensive buffet so far), pleasant live keyboard music. 

The sun is setting behind the mountains across the bay.  Wow!  It just keeps getting better & better, many photos are taken.  M: “This’ll do” (seems to be her catchphrase for the trip).

After dinner we manage to navigate a scary intersection, traffic seemingly coming from every direction, to nearby Carrefour grocery store (in a complex w/ Marks & Spencer clothing store upstairs and Burger King; plus Starbucks across the street).  Metal detectors to enter here too.  We get bottled water & chocolate goodies to take to folks back home (after sneaking them into the hotel, we’re such rebels!) and some of Serap’s favorite Ülker Çikolata to give to her.  M relaxes w/ a bath.  Programs on BBC about the Queen’s life.  There’s a party below us w/ light show & dancing, but no problem getting to sleep.

Thursday, May 31: 

            In the news: Continuing fears about the Greek debt crisis, and new sanctions against Syria.  It’s a free day for us.  There’s another optional archeological tour, but it’s a good day to relax.  The “old city” here seems too far (two guys from California in our group walk the 5 km, tell us later it wasn’t that interesting), so we’ll just hang out at the hotel  ̶  which proves an excellent choice.  A mistaken 6:45 wakeup call, so the day starts earlier than planned.  A bit cloudy at first, then nice sun & pleasant temps (about 75-80° today; for comparison: 81° in NYC, 110° in India!).  This is quite a complex: several pools inside & out, sauna & spa & fitness center.  No beach, the water gets deep quickly here, but swimming & diving areas below a rocky cliff w/ pretty vegetation & flowers, plus Aqua Park water slides.  There’s even a “kindergarten” w/ brightly colored rooms, and children sing and dance in an outside play area after breakfast.  There are convention groups: HHB (which seems a tourism organization), another group that appears to be government-related scientific stuff (gaz sayasçlari çaliştayi?), and Save the Children. 

            A leisurely breakfast, including choices not found at others: pancakes and French toast, fried eggs or omelet.  Then down to the shore, beautiful deep blue-green water.  Relaxing in lounge chairs, we watch tour boats and a double-masted schooner pass by w/ the mountain backdrop.  Strolling around, we see the diving center, a couple of people getting lessons by the shore, and areas infested w/ tiny snails.  Some time catching up on the computer: home & work e-mails, American sports news.   

After such an exhausting morning regimen, must be time for lunch.  We head out onto the busy street, ignoring WienerWald to go to a local sandwich place recommended by Serap.  A tasty, sloppy sandwich to share.  Along the street full of hotels and condos (many pretty 5-10 story pastel-colored buildings), lots of rooftop water tanks, pretty purple-flowered trees.  It seems a bit hotter now & more humid, but a nice breeze; certainly not the “hell” Frommer’s calls the 4^th season here.  Back to the grocery, a clerk plies us w/ samples of rolled or carved dried fruit & nut combos.  Very tasty, some purchases.  

I go back to the hotel, a little stretching in the fitness center for my neck, then a brief nap.  M returns: “My shopping is done!”  Hmmm, we’ll see.  Out for more photos: interesting flower close-ups, darker clouds make a dramatic background up the coast. 

            A little wine before dinner.  In the news: There’s talk of restarting some nuclear reactors in Japan; Facebook stock has declined 27% since its IPO; Istanbul is one of 3 finalists to host 2020 Olympics.  It’s become much cooler.  As dinnertime approaches black clouds take over, then “thundering rain” (a term heard on BBC) and 2 brief power outages.  We watch 2 men struggle to take down a huge bright red Turkish flag in the storm.  During dinner Allyson shows us a video of her impromptu hula-hoop routine down at the waterfront (she teaches hoop exercise classes, travels w/ her hoop, and can put on quite a show; grandson William would be most impressed).  It’s clear by bed-time, lights on the opposite shore, a bright moon.  One more Antalya moment: I awaken at 2am, peer out the balcony, and another Wow!  ̶  the almost-full moon low over the mountains w/ a shimmering reflection across the Mediterranean.  I take the risk of waking Marjorie to share this vision, she agrees it’s a not-to-be-missed moment.

 

Friday: June 1:

            Another big driving day to Cappadocia.  A clear, cool AM, rising sun reflecting on the mountains.  It will be a beautiful mostly sunny, warm day.  We chat at breakfast w/ Theresa, retired teacher from California traveling w/ husband John.  She took some kidding early on after buying a belly-dancer outfit, allegedly for a granddaughter; all along she’s also been buying little things as grab-bag gifts for an upcoming family reunion.  I’ve been noticed recording observations and scribbling in my notebook; M is my literary agent, getting e-mail addresses for those who’d like a copy of my trip journal; but how will I manage to write all of this up (and as always, any errors will be solely the fault of the author)?  It’s been so beautiful and relaxing at this hotel, it’s hard to leave.  M: this place is “perfectly, amazingly, wonderfully spectacular” (she finally ran out of adjectives).  Onto the bus; Irfan counts us and off we go.  Serap tells about the fancy 5-star hotels here, frequented especially by Germans & Russians, and other info about the tourist industry.  We pass “YIPPI baby and toy” & “DEEPO Outlet Center.”  More info on high taxes, services & pensions.  Retirement age has been 50 for women, 55 for men, but (as elsewhere) these are going up.  Following up on some of her earlier discussions, Serap talks about women’s issues and problems associated w/ their traditional position, from abortion to honor killings.  She notes significant regional differences in culture and practices, Eastern Turkey much more conservative.  We appreciate that Serap is more willing to delve into political and social issues than other guides we’ve had.  It’s not all Disney World.     

           We start off east thru beautiful agricultural countryside, layered mountains to the north, then up into the mountains (I hadn’t anticipated so many mountains here).  Forested (mostly pines), rocky rugged mountains, then high plateau w/ pretty villages in valley areas.  Then up, up, up, ears popping, snow patches nearby.  We share snacks & family photos w/ seat neighbors.  M gets tips on books about train travel from John.  Lots of restaurant + playground areas along here; people probably come up to beat the summer heat.  Ears popping again as we head down toward a lake district past unusual pine trees.  Into another agricultural area, very tall straight trees & other pretty trees along stream beds. 

  

Then a very sparse, almost desolate area as we near Konya, 5^th largest city (almost 2 million); a very conservative area, also heavy consumption here of raki, a strong licorice-flavored alcoholic drink.  There’s a nearby excavation dating to 7000 BC.  Lunch stop: a pretty buffet in a large room, tho M gets pide (pizza).  Must be a dervish area: a large figure in front of the restaurant.  Past a NATO training facility.  Very flat & arid here, a center for grain. 

On to a school supported by Gate1, something of which Serap is obviously very proud.  This school serves children in 5 grades from several area villages.  Gate1 is building a canteen, playground, restrooms, and provides clothing & supplies.  On our bus we bring juice boxes & little cakes.  The children are all gathered outside, so excited to see us arrive, eager to have “photo!” taken.  And they’ve put together a surprise show, colorful costumes & dancing.  

Afterward they (and their mothers) have laid out beautiful scarves, table linens, and the like if we wish to buy to support the school, and the walls have many drawings by students that we can have as a gift.  Allyson gives a brief hula hoop exhibition and leaves her hoop as a gift!  This stop has been a lovely interlude.  On the road again, Serap talks about health care and recent reforms to expand access and coverage.  Then a thoughtful discourse on Islamic practices and traditions, and how some Muslim countries and groups require practices that do not reflect Islam, especially regarding the position of women.

Next a stop at the Caravanserai of Agzikarahan.  These “ancient Holiday Inn chains,” as Serap calls them, offered shelter to merchants along the Silk Road, spaced 1-day travel apart.  These were state-provided to encourage trade.  The entrance reminds us of the Alamo.  Interesting, but pretty sparse inside.  S relates some history of the Silk Road; Turkey is a leading silk producer.  Horse-drawn carts pass nearby, and a little plaza has busts of Ataturk and various sultans. 

 Driving again, we pass a sugar factory (sugar beets).  A Mercedes-Benz truck factory is in the area; our bus, and many others we see, are Mercedes.  

Beautiful views from the bus as we drive along here and elsewhere (I'm not quite sure which photos were taken where!). A flock of sheep w/ shepherd on a donkey.  Lots of stone walls, Mt. Hasan, an 11,000’ volcano in the distance (1 of 3 here in Cappadocia).  

To Ürgüp, largest city in the region, and our Peri Tower Hotel.   

 The most interesting of our hotels: a labyrinthian interior inspired by the caves & fairy-tale, surreal, lunar (pick your term) landscape in this region created by volcanos & erosion.   

Some relaxation, tho disturbing news from BBC: our galaxy is projected to slam into another in only 4 billion years!  The best dinner büfe, including kofte (meatballs) and tasty tandoori turkey.

         Tonight is our Whirling Dervish experience, held at one of the best-preserved caravanserai: 800 years old, pretty courtyard w/ fountain, interior rooms, a larger space for the ceremony. Cool w/ a bright moon adding to the atmosphere.  This is not a “performance” in the usual sense.  It’s a mystical ritual of the Mevlevi sect dating to the 13^th C.  

 Beforehand there’s projected presentation w/ music on one wall relating Anatolian history.  I have my camera ready, and Tom is doing his seemingly never-ending videography, but no photos allowed during the ceremony (they give out a brochure to explain what we’ll see, and postcards).  We’re guests, and asked not to applaud during or after.  It’s quite an experience: contemplative, graceful, powerful, beautiful.  After cinnamon & berry tea in the courtyard, back to the hotel about 11.

Saturday, June 2:

            It’s Balloon Day!  Marjorie has had a long fascination w/ hot-air balloons; one of her fantasies has been to take a Buddy Bombard (astronomically expensive) hot-air balloon tour.  The best I’ve been able to come up w/ was a birthday ride for her near us some years ago, but the optional balloon excursion here was my 40^th wedding anniversary gift to her.  The combination of landscape and weather makes Cappadocia the pinnacle of hot-air ballooning.  This was to be M’s special treat.  But as it got closer, Serap kept talking about what a once-in-a-lifetime experience this is, recounting a pertinent Muslim philosophy: “Shrouds don’t have pockets” (i.e., you can’t take it with you).  M said she would be happy to share the experience, so I signed up; let’s call it a 65^th birthday gift to myself.  A 4:30am wakeup call, signifying the weather is a “Go.”  3 vans from Kapadokya Balloons pick up 20 from our group at 5:20, we pick up another couple on the way.  A big orange sun is just coming up, weather conditions are perfect.  

 As we near the takeoff site balloons can be seen rising in the distance.  These are larger that M’s prior experience, each balloon holding 20 persons in 4 sections; actually we have 22, and I volunteer to move from one section to another for better balance (and it’s not easy getting into & out of these baskets!).  Our pilot David is a Brit, an irascible veteran (and quite handsome, M says) who offers comments on the ballooning industry and explains some of the flying techniques during the flight; they only fly early AM now because heat later in the day makes landing difficult.  

After landing instructions, off we go!  There are dozens of colorful balloons in the air, some 60 by one person’s estimate (22 companies operate here).  The balloons float gracefully above the incredible landscape w/ rose & white colors reflecting different volcanic ash falls.  

Houses and caves excavated into the cliffs below, fairy-tale shapes in the formations.  (Some in my basket make off-color remarks on the “erectile” chimney images, also noted in Frommer’s.)   

The control exercised by the pilots is incredible: sometimes balloons dip deep into canyons, almost close enough to touch the walls, sometimes touch each other (or “kiss,” as experienced balloonist M reminds me).  At times we’re surrounded by balloons above & below & next to us.  The panoramas are indescribable.  Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience!!  

 

It looks like we’re going to land after the expected hour trip, but David decides to go up . . . up . . . up, reaching 1500’!  Other balloons are far below. 

Finally (sadly) David heads for a landing; we’ve gotten more than an extra ½ hour and are one of the last to come down.   

It’s not a rough landing, but the crew has some difficulty getting us corralled, plus a cliff edge seems (to me) rather close, but they maneuver the balloon onto the truck.David’s dog Sara is very excited to see us.  Juice w/ champagne plus cake are served.  Reflecting the Diamond Jubilee, David toasts: “God Save the Queen.”  M notes that we’ve “landed in thyme” (literally).  We give David & Sara a ride back as we head to the hotel.  A bit late, but Serap kindly grants us an extra 10 minutes for breakfast before heading off at 9:10 (the day is still young!) for a full-day Cappadocia tour, reunited w/ the rest of our group.

           First to an underground city, trying to beat the crowds.  Serap tells us Cappadocia means “land of beautiful horses.”  There are 3 volcanos (highest is 13,000’).  A big flock of sheep crosses the road; for this our driver yields.  “Troglodytes” have long lived in caves here, easy to dig out of the soft limestone “tufa.”  But residents were forced out in 1952 because of asbestos concerns.  There are still a few houses & cave hotels w/ proper protections.  Underground cities (40 connected to each other) were discovered by children looking for a lost ball.  Maybe started by Hittites for storage and animals, these were developed (10-12 levels deep!) by early Christians to avoid persecution.  Serap goes part way (she’s a bit claustrophobic), local Ahmed shows the rest of the way.  It’s a stable 22° C below, a couple 1000 people lived in each city.  Each had a winery.  A bit disappointing that rooms are bare, no indications of how they were furnished. 

Lots of sun today, plenty warm, but still comfortable.  A varied landscape: some wide open spaces, rich red soil, and the aforementioned formations. 

            Serap will take us to a variety of places offering good views.  The 1^st highlights the mushroom-shaped “chimneys,” dubbed “Smurfville” by 1 of our group.  An interesting contrast: a camel (available for brief rides) and a woman nearby in traditional garb talking on her cellphone. 

On to another site w/ houses built into and around the formations; and a classic panorama of geologic formations + a lineup of tour buses + a sweep of shops.  I buy a snowglobe for grandson Miles, who is fascinated by them; this one has Nasreddin hoca (a figure of humor & satire since the 13^th C) riding a donkey (he also appears on books in many shops). 

Then a break at a carpet factory.  Serap talks about the importance of carpets in the culture and gives some bargaining tips.  Women here illustrate the same weaving techniques used for 3000 years, how to extract silk from a cocoon (1 cocoon = 1½ miles of silk!) (sister-in-law Ann would enjoy this stop).  A woman in our group illustrates how easy it is to break 1 silk thread, and is then given 4 threads: “If you break it you get a free carpet.”  She fails.  On to the showroom for a nice presentation by a charming man, many beautiful carpets, he explains variations in the carpet structure and shows how they look very different from different angles.  Complimentary pide & drinks are served.  Some purchases are made by our group.  

 Waiting to leave, an unusually clear view of the largest, snow-capped volcano.  We also learn that our B group had a Turkish road rage alteraction: men in a minibus thought the bus had scratched them, cut them off, and engaged in some fisticuffs w/ Sali’h, some minor injuries. 

            On to Göreme Open Air Museum, a monastic settlement from the 4^th C of churches carved out of the formations w/ primitive wall paintings.  Hotter now, more crowded, lots of steps & stairs.  You have to wait for rooms to empty; at one I watch as schoolchildren come out, and come out, and come out  ̶  how did they all fit in there?  Later, walking past them, the kids are all “Hi,” “How are you,” “Merhaba.”  One gives his cap to Theresa.  At one point an ambulance has to wind its way up a narrow path thru the crowds.  A church at the bottom of the site has more elaborate & colorful wall paintings, arches carved out of the rock.   

On to another stop w/ panoramic views.  This whole area, which seems like our Bryce Canyon on steroids, is a World Heritage Site.  Serap says it’s quite amazing w/ snow.  

          A final stop at a pottery factory located in a cave, using white clay from the area.  Demonstrations and a showroom of beautiful painted finished work.  But we all seem too tired to buy.    

Thru pretty countryside as the sun lowers, back to the hotel at 6.  A very long but full & wonderful day!  I’ve taken about 200 photos today, surely a personal record.

Sunday, June 3:

            Another beautiful AM, sunny & cool, temps headed now toward mid-80s.  Some of our group are headed to Istanbul today for a longer stay there.  We’ve reached our usual 10-day threshold and feel ready to go home, but there’s still more to do & see.  At breakfast I talk photos w/ Carrie (from Virginia, traveling w/ her mother), who’s way ahead of me w/ 1700 photos so far!  (I’ll finish w/ almost 1000, a personal record; M takes about 160 plus several nice short videos.)  Carrie & I will exchange some of our efforts.   

On the road, many cows, sheep, what seems a herd of cats (is that possible?).  We retrace our route thru arid agricultural area, double-peaked snow-covered volcano to one side, people working in the fields.  Past an old caravanseri, trucks filled w/ onions, then turn north toward Ankara.  Past Turkey’s 2^nd biggest lake (600 sq mi); one of the saltiest in the world, it dries out in summer, salt factories are here.  A somewhat bumpy ride thru more of the road construction we’ve experienced. 

            Driving into Ankara, a long stretch of outlet stores on the outskirts, more slums for redevelopment; original residents will be moved back into better housing, rather than being displaced as so often w/ “urban renewal” in the US.  More evidence of a countrywide reforestation project (Serap is proud to have over 50 trees planted in her name).  As she has thruout, Serap orients us via a map at the front of the bus (“I’ll get my stick and show where we are”).  Frommer’s says Ataturk chose Ankara for the new capital because Istanbul was “the seat of an imperial and dissolute empire.”  Now a big city, over 4 million.  Serap talks about how revered Ataturk is, combination George Washington & Abe Lincoln.  (He was born Mustafa Kemal, later honored w/ Ataturk, “Father Turk.”) 

The Ataturk Mausoleum is a most impressive site, a must-see for visiting dignitaries: beautiful grounds, flowers & trees & fragrances, views over the city, beautiful marble & limestone.  

A large open plaza surrounded by lower structures, large tomb at one end, a walkway w/ lions & flowers & statues at the other end.

The tomb has an especially beautiful marble floor, pretty decorated ceiling, soldiers posted ceremoniously inside & out (we see the end of a changing of the guard).  A museum contains various memorabilia from Ataturk’s life and especially evocative panoramas & dioramas of the War of Independence (1919-1923).  Lots of school groups; probably end-of-the-year trips, says Serap. 

Into the Anatolian Civilizations Museum collection containing “best of the best.”  Housed in a 15^th C bazaar, pretty grounds.  Serap shows and explains some of her favorite exhibits: 9000-year-old wall paintings, a Mother Goddess figure that’s one of the 1^st of its type, intricate work w/ bronze, silver, and gold.  

A remarkable collection, going back to 8000 BC.   

A short drive to our Barcelo Altinel Hotel.  We poke around the MiGROS store across the street: groceries downstairs, department store up.  Then we watch BBC coverage of what seems the kickoff to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee: flotilla of some 1,000 boats following behind Gloriana the Royal Rowbarge, Queen & entourage in the Royal Barge.  Quite a spectacle, despite some rain. 

We meet up w/ Alisande, daughter of geography colleague John (who’s married to sociology colleague Nancy), who’s in a foreign service posting at the American embassy here.  A lovely evening, cool w/ lowering sun as we taksi to the Citadel overlooking the city.  Alisande has planned a perfect evening combo of shopping, photo ops, food, and good company.  First wandering atmospheric streets & shops.  We enjoy watching Alisande, who speaks fluent Turkish, interact self-assuredly w/ shopkeepers.  Great fun for M, finding pretty beads & little dresses for grandnieces.  I enjoy the photo angles. 

 To Washington Restaurant, a pretty spot under an awning overlooking the city, amusement park along the river below w/ pretty lights as the sun sets.  Well-dressed dignitaries also dining here turn out to be mayors of Ankara and a sister city w/ their entourages.  An excellent meal followed by nice chat w/ the owner (or manager?) as we leave.  This has certainly been a highlight of the trip!

Monday, June 4: 

            Yet another lovely AM.  Up bright & early; well, “bright” is optional at this point.  We’ll be driving partly thru Black Sea mountains at almost 6000’ and thru the 2^nd-longest tünel in Turkey.  First past large AnkaMall and air-force bases. 

A variety of countrysides: rolling agricultural terrain (and a big truck filled w/ nectarines, pears, peaches), mountains w/ pine forests, flat farm areas.  I continue trying, with some success, to get photos of villages, mosques & minarets as we drive along, some catching the sunlight as subjects for M’s painting.  Hazy & warmer today.  Serap shows M some pics of her wedding dress (from January). 

 

A very scenic rest area w/ gardens, an especially pretty mosque w/ blue-tiled pool, cute kittens, a good organic market, overlooking a large lake.  A yummy treat: Bolçi bam baska bir çikolata. 

 Even restrooms are photogenic!
 Past an industrial area, big cement factory.  Many tankers in a bay off Sea of Marmara.  At a lunch stop M is not noticed to be asleep on the bus, we unload, the bus backs away; not to worry, it’s just parking and M gets off. 

We reach Istanbul, crossing the Bosporus back into Europe.  Heavy traffic; Serap notes that a 3^rd bridge over the Bosporus is planned, and a tunnel under the river (under construction during our previous trip) is finished but not in operation yet.  Along a pretty boulevard, flowers in the median and parks along the way; and a stretch w/ Starbucks, Burger King, KFC, McDonald’s.  Over Galata Bridge and the Golden Horn to a cruise boat just for our 2 Gate1 groups (and a rendezvous w/ folks who skipped Ankara). 

         

   Sali’h narrates the cruise.  Lots of sun, a bit hazy, warmest temps of the trip.  We cover a lot in 2 hours: beautiful aquamarine water, colorful boats, fancy hotels & restaurants, amazing homes, beautiful mosques, a variety of river traffic, a neighborhood w/ mosque, church, and synagogue (symbolizing their shared traditions and Turkish history of tolerance).  We added this option after the tour began, and it’s a good way to finish  ̶  we see a lot we wouldn’t have seen otherwise.  

 

          Back to the Mosaic Hotel.   Our room at the start of the trip was rather cramped, but this time is very large w/ 3 beds! One last thing: the Farewell Dinner.  To avoid the heaviest traffic Neçip pulls off a U-turn in mid-street, to applause in the bus.  Serap announces transfer times to the airport for tomorrow, ours is the first at 3:30am!  She says it’s a tradition for everyone to get up to say goodbye, but nobody is buying that.  To a festive street lined w/ seafood restaurants (Akvaryum for us).  I’ve been pretty adventurous with foods, so I partake of the calamari and pass on chicken kebap to have sea bass.  A group wends thru the tables w/ violin, drums, and tambourine; Leela & Allyson are pulled up to join the dancing.  This is quite a contrast w/ our more elegant dinner at the start of the trip.   

Returning to the hotel, Serap offers a very warm farewell: “Thank you for coming to my country.”  A guide for 20 years, she indicates she’ll be cutting back, hinting that she & new hubby may look to start a family.  At the hotel, one last time up to the terrace to see the city lights under a hazy full moon.

Tuesday, June 5:

            After a little sleep we head down for the early transfer to the airport for our 6:20am flight.  Joined by Leela, who gets our votes for “best-dressed” on the tour.  We’re given box lunches of juice & sandwich.  We join some B folks on the van, learning that we are the “infamous” Wards  ̶  some people waited an hour while transfer staff tried to find us in the airport when we were supposed to arrive (they hadn’t gotten the word that we missed our connection in Rome).  Our transfer guy accompanies us into the airport to be sure everyone is all set.  Flight leaves on time (hooray!), Istanbul spread out to our left.  Some good music on the earphones, from Janis Joplin to ABBA.  Early into Rome, they mention Alitalia has bus service to the center of Rome  ̶  now they tell us!  Back to our “favorite” Ciao restaurant to eat Gate1 sandwiches.  Things seem quite inefficient; we’ve been thru 3 security checks so far this AM and never left “secure” areas, but there are passport checks to both enter the gate area and to board!  Oh well, that’s life in the Terrorist Age.  But we’re on-time out of Rome and well ahead of schedule into JFK about 1:00pm.  Nice nose camera views as we come in of the approaching runway w/ NYC skyline in the distance.  At baggage claim FDA “Deputy Beagle” is on patrol, sniffs out a contraband apple in a woman’s backpack.  This time we use AirTrain & subway (E) to Grand Central, then Metro North to Poughkeepsie a little before 6.  Marlene picks us up, we share some dinner w/ her & Frank, then on the road supplied w/ more fruit bars, home by 9.  It’s been a day of “Planes, Trains, and Automobiles” (to borrow from a 1987 movie).  Next AM it was apparent that it had rained most of the time we were gone  ̶  tho neighbor Kevin had cut grass while we were away, the lawn was too high for my mower so we hired pros to do the “harvest.”

We covered a lot of ground in the western half of the country; the city-to-city driving distances totaled over 1100 miles by my calculations; and in addition to some record-breaking personal photography, this is my longest trip journal so far.  Serap was a wonderful guide, combining knowledge w/ passionate love for country (and ruins) w/ friendly good humor.  Good fellow travelers, meeting 2 basic criteria: congeniality and punctuality.  Good food & wonderful weather, we beat the heat later in the summer.  We congratulate ourselves on good efficient packing: wash-&-wear clothes, plus our usual practice of taking old clothes to jettison along the way.  We saw and did so much, so many unique images and experiences!

It was a Mary Poppins trip: practically perfect in every way!