Barcelona

Barcelona

May 2010

 We’ve been asked, Why Barcelona?  Some of our travels have covered regional areas, even several countries, but we’ve also enjoyed settling in and getting to know a particular city and its environs.  Barcelona seemed an intriguing place to explore and “hang out”  ̶  interesting art, architecture, culture, food, etc.  ̶  much like our trip to Lisbon.  Our conductor friend Francisco loves Barcelona; too bad he won’t be there to show us around, especially the nightlife and tapas bars of which he speaks so fondly.  Air/hotel package is thru Gate1travel.com; we used them for a trip to Greece and were very pleased with the arrangements.  Flights on Iberia; it’s good we’re not on British Air; we met some folks in Barcelona whose trip was disrupted by a BA strike.  A month ago ash in the upper atmosphere from a volcanic eruption in Iceland closed many airports in Europe, but that seems to have subsided (fingers crossed).  There’s financial turmoil in Europe, but that’s to our benefit in bringing down the euro’s value.  We’ll see how much of my high school Spanish I remember: I think I have the basics-- Hola, Buenos dias, and Donde está el baño (“where’s the bathroom”).  One complication: Catalan is a prevalent dialect in Barcelona (Catalunya region), so maybe I should use On és el lavabo.  We have our trusty Frommer’s guide.  My brother Doug is joining us: wife Ann & daughter Katie are doing their own trip to Montreal.  When we’ve travelled w/ friend Kay she’s kept a detailed ledger (“Kay owes” & “Wards owe”) to keep track of joint expenses.  Doug’s an accountant: does that make him more or less trustworthy for this task?  As on past trips w/ my bro there will be dueling diaries as we both write up our accounts, not to mention elbowing each other for the best photo angles.  The game is on!

Wednesday, May 19:

            A shock at the start: Marjorie had the packing in hand before midnight!  Our usual drive to Queens to leave the car w/ son Matt.  Anthea & grandsons are at work and nursery school, so just a quick hello/goodbye hug for Matt, then a walk to the subway, to Jamaica Station & Airtrain to JFK.  As usual my pre-trip jitters have gotten us here plenty early, easy check-in.  The plane is very full, no chance for M to talk our way into business class (well, it worked once with Lufthansa).  Depart JFK on Iberia a little late at 6:45pm.  Views on cabin screens from a camera in the tail offer an interesting perspective on takeoff (and especially on landings), becoming my Photo #1.  I’ve started reading a Daniel Silva spy thriller . . . which starts w/ the bombing of an airliner!

           

Thursday, May 20:

            6 hours time change, landing in Madrid at 7:15 AM.  Sunrise always seems so pretty on a plane, maybe just because it comes after an uncomfortable night: Marjorie seems to have gotten some sleep, me not so much.  A very large modern aeropuerto: Photo #2 (don’t worry, I won’t document each photo).  Tho we don’t change flight # we have to change planes for the continental leg: thru immigration, a long hike & tram to a different terminal, a snaking line for another security check (we never left a secure area so why is this needed?).  About an hour to Barcelona, good views of the city coming in, a little late at 10:45am.  Doug’s flight is due in a little after ours.  We’d neglected to make specific rendezvous plans, but Marjorie spots him thru the crowd while I’m at an ATM. 

  Shared taxi to Hotel Astoria, on Carrer de Parίs.  A nice place, seems a bit more “elegant” than our usual lodging: pretty lobby, lots of nice woodwork, rooms off the lobby w/ artwork, nice stenciled decorations on hallway walls.  There are odd green balls with many protuberances at the front desk and the bar/breakfast area; maybe aliens have stayed here?  A nice room, lots of storage space.  Some typical European features: insert the key card in a slot to activate power in the room, “first floor” is the one above street level, shower door covers only halfway across so there’s some danger of flooding (as M is reminded during her first use).  CNN the only English TV channel; we’ve always found this to offer an interesting “European” perspective on the world w/ different stories and personalities: a first CNN report on Islamic protests over “Draw Mohammed Day.”  Other channels in Spanish or dubbed (e.g., a Jackie Chan movie).  Right off we can find a bullfight & soccer game, seems Spanish enough.  There’s also a shopping network: directtoacasa.tv.   

We have a central location in a commercial area just off Diagonal, a main thoroughfare, with nearby shops, cafes, etc.  Blocks around the hotel have pretty building facades, balconies w/ flowers & soccer banners.  It’s about 4 blocks to one of the main boulevards leading down to the heart of the city, and the Diagonal metro stop connects easily to central parts of the city and other metro lines. And Marjorie gets to take her favorite photos of architectural details around the city. 

 Settled in, we’re ready to stretch our legs and head off on a comfortable sunny day, along Diagonal lined w/ motorbikes and plane trees (reminding us of Provence).  A light lunch at nearby Farga, a pretty pasta/tapas/pastry place w/ friendly waiter.  Past a whimsical sculpture of giraffe seeming to do stretching exercises, a distinctive landmark we pass many times during our stay.  

 A first view of Gaudί’s fantastical moderniste creations at Casa Milá.

  Sculpted undulating limestone façade, panoramic views from a rooftop terrace w/ his distinctive towers and “gnarled fairy-tale chimneys.”  

Plus a long-distance view to La Sagrada Familia.

  Beautiful interior murals; you have to be sure to look in every direction!   

Into the metro, ticket machines won’t accept our credit cards without PINs (which we don’t need at home so don’t have handy); cash works fine.  We use the metro a lot.  10-ticket cards are almost ½ price.  We learn to find the correct linea & direccίo for travels, then sortida (exit).  Doors are mostly open between cars, so you can see the cars undulate up-and-down and bend around curves.   

We successfully navigate to La Sagrada Familia, another Gaudί creation.  More fantastical sculptures around the exterior, variously called “a bizarre wonder” and “catechism in stone.”  Full of Biblical symbolism, including Passion Façade on the entrance side.   

A mass schedule is posted outside, but there’s so much work being done inside & on the roof (big cranes and such) that “maintenance” referred to on signs seems quite an understatement.  Tho work began in 1882, Frommer’s says it’s still considered only half-finished, likely needing another 50 years or more!  The interior includes soaring arches, beautiful stained glass, unusual structures and windows in the ceiling.   

A gelato break, then we pass more beautiful buildings to take our tired tootsies back to the hotel. A fine beginning.

Friday, May 21: 

            A sunny AM, temps to reach low 70s, pretty much what we have thruout our stay.  CNN reports: US stocks & Asian markets plummet on investor fears over European debt, oil slick still growing off the US Gulf coast.  Hotel breakfast buffet in an elegant dining room, lovely tables and old Parisian posters: typical European pastries & breads, cheeses & meats (salami for breakfast!), fruits, etc.  A good start for each day.  Doug isn’t here to meet us.  Marjorie suggests we “let sleeping Dougs lie” (groan), but I call up to his room  ̶  I need to keep some discipline in the tour group.  Apparently some confusion in setting his alarm, but at least he should be well-rested.  The Ward brothers get oriented. 

         

More beautiful architecture and pedestrian areas.

       

   We head off, M suggesting an unscheduled church stop nearby: the interesting Esglesia Maré de Deu de Martsio.  Past pretty candy store windows, colorful things for first communion and other celebrations.  M points out some displays of “elegant” men’s underwear; what’s she getting at?  Interesting shops and pretty windows are all over this city.  We head down La Rambla de Catalunya, one of a number of wide boulevards w/ tree-lined pedestrian areas in the middle; so many delightful places to stroll!  And we all notice the lack of horn-honking (unlike NYC).  Over to the Passeig de Grácia and its Manzana de la Discordia.  

           The latter “Block of Discord” is one of many World Heritage sites here, a “showcase” of moderniste architecture: Gaudί’s Casa Battló and houses by two other masters of the style.  Casa Battló is especially wonderful.  Exterior façade of iron, stone, and collages of tiles and ceramic, plus windows and grillwork balconies that create skull-like formations: this is also known as casa del ossos (house of bones). 

The interior includes his distinctive arches, his own furniture designs, interesting lighting & ventilation systems in the attic.   

 

     Another spectacular rooftop terrace: panoramic views across the city, towers, glazed ceramic mosaics.  The beautiful tile mosaics are characteristic of Gaudί’s work; knock-offs can be found in many forms, sizes, and prices w/in tourist shops, of course.  Much iconography and symbolism; audo guide says: “concept, architecture, structure, and decoration all come together.”  Gaudί even created his own calligraphy for apartment doors.  Yes, this was created as an apartment building, 2 units still occupied by people in their 70s who’ve been here all their lives; must be rent-controlled, a New Yorker would think.  There’s a snack bar, but Marjorie nixes the Gaudί Choco Lollipops. 

            We continue down to Plaça de Catalunya, the central large pretty plaza: pigeons lighting on people to eat from their hands, fountains, sculptures, flowers.  

 Into the big department store, El Corte Inglés, for 9^th-floor cafeteria lunch by a window overlooking the plaza.  A seagull lands and taps on the window looking for a handout; sorry, no can do.   

On to Palau de la Musica Catalunya, a fabulous concert venue  ̶  but no photos! (I get a postcard to scan in back home).  Another World Heritage site, beautiful and ornate turn-of-the-century moderniste: sculptures on stage (muses along the rear wall) and around the hall, intricate tile mosaics, stained glass including a fabulous chandelier nicknamed the “glow worm”, creative use of natural light.  It’s a “riot of symbolism.”  There’s a short organ piece to demonstrate the wonderful acoustics; does this mean we can tell Francisco we’ve attended a performance? 

Continuing along, more beautiful plazas and buildings.

 We continue on toward La Rambla, the center of old Barcelona w/ more colorful stores & windows.  We poke around in shops: one w/ an incredible variety of ceramic figures, another w/ interesting varieties of paper Marjorie says she’s only seen in NYC (she gets some for her art projects).  Pretty birds and other pets for sale, many human mannequins in various guises (ranging from fairies to Indian chiefs to monsters)  ̶  another lovely strolling boulevard.  And a Dunkin Donuts! (we don’t partake).  

          

            Into Mercat de la Boqueria w/ many colorful stalls of fruits, meat, fish, cheeses.  M wonders what odd-looking percebe vivo is (Google says goose barnacles, I doubt we’ll try the recipes).  Even she is struck by “the enormity of the shopping experience” in Barcelona (tho, as usual, our shopping is mostly looking, not buying).  After some confusion Doug locates Dulcinea café for a break of wonderful thick hot chocolate & shared pastries; Marjorie says “a big star to Doug!”  We leave but I have to go back to retrieve some tourist info I left on the table.  Our friendly waiter has them, and w/ a smile also gives me a metro map (he seems to think I may need some help).  

          More strolling.  A pretty shop w/ gifts & decorations for all kinds of celebrations.  A chocolate shop w/ such delicacies as chocolate versions of Scrabble, Memory, and poker games; we succumb to some purchases here (mostly for others, of course).  Back to El Corte Inglés and a supermercato in the basement to get a picnic supper of bread, cheese, and wine for back at the hotel (and some goodies for folks back home).   

Today has been mostly walking, but we metro back toward the hotel.  Nearby M & I find an old grocery mentioned in Frommer’s, Queviures Murrià, now a little gourmet wine shop w/ pretty storefront paintings.  We pass “movie trucks” we saw in the AM, still shooting some kind of “promotion” on the streets near the hotel.  We’ve done a lot in the first day & a half, with mucho walking!

Saturday, May 22: 

          Partly cloudy AM, the only day with much in the way of clouds, tho mostly of the puffy white variety.  Sat. AM Spanish cartoons seem like grandson Willy’s “Teen Titans.”  The city is very quiet as we head out to metro + funicular to Montjuΐc, rising above the city.  Another pretty place to stroll (or jog) along tree-lined roadways, views of the city and nearby Palau Nacional. 

                      

A pretty sculpture jardin around Fundació Joan Miró.  Miró was a master of contemporary Catalan art, Frommer’s says, w/ “whimsical forms, brilliant colors, and surrealism.”  Into the museu where Doug is scolded for taking a photo (I had my turn being scolded yesterday in a shop; in our defense, the little signs w/ lines thru cameras are hard to spot).  Sculptor friend Nene must know of this place, w/ its large exhibit spaces for the sorts of installations she does.  Now there are murals by artists from various countries: bright colors, a variety of themes from a wall of dartboards (complete w/ darts to throw to participate in artistic creation) to an intriguing listing of fears ranging from “bad breath” to “moose attack” to “drowning.”  An interesting “making of” video about creation of the murals.  Miró’s own work in the permanent exhibits includes paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and more, with especially striking images from the Spanish Civil War era.  His later work moved toward “public ornamental art”: sculptures & large murals.  

A terrace w/ colorful sculptures offers more Barcelona panoramas. We continue on thru more pretty gardens, flowers & fountains, to Palau Nacional w/ guitarist on the terrace in front.  Barcelona panorama spreads out below, ranging from La Sagrada Familia across to Torre Agbar, a striking bullet-shaped office building that’s especially attracted Doug’s attention (it’s illuminated at night, but we never manage to get to a closer view).  

The Palau houses the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.  Quite a range, from Romanesque to Baroque to moderniste, and we seniors are free!  The Romanesque exhibits use a particularly striking display approach: sections and fragments of murals have been “lifted” from their original sites and applied to arches & ceilings in a manner that represents the original setting in partial form; it nicely captures the essence of the work.  The spaces are so large and open, unlike the more crowded feel in NYC museums.  The building itself is a mix of old & new built-on areas, w/ beautiful domes and an interior “arena” w/ large organ.  A light lunch in the café.  We exit onto the terrace serenaded by a guitar rendition of “Hotel California.”  Marjorie buys a pretty watercolor bookmark from a vendor outside in the style of Gaudί’s Casa Battló.  

 There’s more to do on Montjuΐc, like Poble Espanyol, a recreated Spanish village described by Frommer’s as either the “height of kitsch” or (a bit more charitably) as having a Disneyland feel.  But we’re museumed out.  Heading to the metro we notice a number of large buildings around the Plaça Espanyol: an Olympic venue now used for musical theater (the Olympic stadium is further up from the Palau), the Arenas de Barcelona, where they seem to be adding a dome, and Fira Barcelona, which seems to be a series of exhibition halls.  Back to the hotel for siesta.  CNN: soccer excitement building for tonight’s Champions League final, and for the World Cup in S. Africa later this year.  A report concludes that some prior promotion with The Village People is “widely considered the worst World Cup collaboration ever;” maybe their “YMCA” song doesn’t translate so well into fútbol. 

            Refreshed, we head back to Plaça Espanyol.  Many more people are out now.  Cute cartoons in the metro about being vigilant de tus cosas (“your things”)  ̶  an ironic foreshadowing, as it turns out.  We find a pretty place for dinner, grape trellises overhead, tradicional Galician cocina: our dishes include veal stew w/ pears, cannelloni w/ tuna.  Must be good, as 6 policia come in from the nearby stacione.  We’re here for the Font Mágica.  

 One large multi-fountain, w/ other fountains running up toward the Palau and lining walkways down to Plaça Espanyol.  The main set of fountains has computerized shifting colors & designs, w/ pop & classical music (including Verdi’s “Va pensiero,” a Marjorie and my choir favorite).  The show begins about 9:00, colors becoming more brilliant as it gets darker.  Lots of people but not mobbed, a festive atmosphere.  Such a beautiful evening, many photos are taken! (See photo at the beginning.)
           Back to the metro, w/ buskers (found throughout the city) playing guitar and sax.  More crowded now, some young women w/ colorful wigs seemingly out for bachelorette carousing (Marjorie later suspects they’re a diversionary tactic), jostling as people get on and off, 3 young men jump out of the car just as the doors close.  A few minutes later: Where’s my wallet!  M watches my color drain as I pat pockets and realize: I’ve been pocket-picked!  The damage isn’t too bad: some cash, driver’s license, one credit card.  There’s probably more damage to my ego  ̶  I’m usually so careful, but have gotten too relaxed from riding metros in many different cities.  Back at the hotel the desk clerk has all sorts of numbers to call (apparently I’m not the first; back home a criminologist colleague tells me Barcelona is known as “the pickpocketing capital of the world”  ̶  now he tells me!); the clerk helps me contact VISA to cancel the card  ̶  nothing had been charged since our dinner, they probably wanted the cash and tossed the rest.  (Parenthetically, we’d had to get new cards on that same account about a month ago after some fraudulent on-line activity; we think a shop or restaurant person got the card # during our spring break in Bermuda.  We’re having our own personal crime wave!)  Doug treats us to ice cream to nurse my wounds.  And despite the metro experience, it’s been a wonderful day & evening!

Sunday, May23: 

           Another clear blue sky day, temps in the 70s.  A “Sesame Street”-style Spanish show on TV. 

M & I are off to Catedral de Barcelona, Doug to the Picasso museu.  I’m dazed & confused for a while, misreading the metro stop location and having trouble finding the Catedral (reminiscent of my “where’s the castle?” moment in Ireland).  But we enjoy some of the surrounding sights. 

We make it OK for the 10:30 mass.  Someone checks attire as people enter: no bare shoulders or short shorts allowed.  We recognize one of the lectors from the metro; could’ve followed her if we’d only known.  This is a spacious “celebrated example of Catalan Gothic.”  We sit behind a 12-person choir w/ exceptional voices.  Very colorful Pentecostal altar: flowers, pretty candles, lots of incense, many red-robed priests. 

 

 On the front steps after mass there’s a small band and, below in Plaça de la Seu, many circles of people doing impromptu sardana, a Catalonian folk dance w/ patriotic overtones.  Another festive atmosphere.  

Into the nearby Museu Frederic Marés courtyard w/ pretty orange trees, but we decide we’ve seen enough medieval sculpture.  On to the cloisters w/ white swans, a pretty little sculpture of a figure on horseback perched on a mossy tower.  A cellist in the nearby courtyard.   

Time for lunch.  First choice, Picasso favorite Els Quatre Gats (“Four Cats”), is closing, so we find La Rosca, recommended by Frommer’s for its 3-course lunch.  We have the place to ourselves as the waiter (owner?) good-naturedly goes over the choices for each course.  An excellent (and peaceful) meal; highlights: sweet Catalan sausage, superb crème brulee (which M had recently made w/ her cooking group back home, but admits this is superior). 

 A walk up to Pl. Catalunya, then metro to Parc Güell north of our hotel.  

A bit of a hike in a hilly area (especially within the park) on a warm sunny PM. 

 The park is quite a place, begun as a real estate venture, now a popular public park: interesting columns & archways along roads & walkways, mosaic dragons, whimsical buildings.  We explore Casa Gaudΐ Museu, where he used to live.  It’s quite crowded, including more buskers and people selling annoying chirping bird calls we’ve heard elsewhere.  Everybody seems to want their picture taken sitting on the centerpiece large dragon, it’s hard to get clear photo angles (darn those turistas!).  

 

We poke into tourist shops on the way back to the metro, learning that prices do down as you go downhill away from the park  ̶  and that bargaining increases as you head for the door.  We find a few things, including the kind of t-shirt Doug’s been seeking for grandson Aiden.  Back to the hotel for siesta. 

            Dinner at Farga near the hotel: tapas, ensaladas, pa amb tomaquet (a local tomato-rubbed bread), and refreshing beer.  A nice cool evening, people out strolling.  We’re all stiff from today’s hilly walking.  Marjorie & I continue on to see Gaudΐ’s Casa Milá and Battló illuminated (Doug went out to see this last night).  

 Passing a McDonald’s we discover a McCafe that’s nothing like anything we’ve seen in the US: fancy pastisos & becudes caliente.  We partake, since it seems legitimately European: tiramisu, chocolate cake, cappuccino.  A friendly young man, who reminds us of one of Matt’s friends, serves everything w/ appropriate fancy chocolate & cinnamon flourishes.  We commend him for being a true artist.  Further along M finally succumbs to buy from a sidewalk vendor a little lighted wind-up toy that launches high above and helicopters slowly back down; something the grandsons will enjoy in our yard at night.

Monday, May 24: 

              Tight calves from yesterday’s hills, and now we’re off to the mountains and Montserrat monastery.  CNN: N. Korea accused of torpedoing a S. Korean ship; a scandal over Sarah Ferguson selling access to her princely ex-husband.  We look for an early breakfast to get going, but hotel breakfast not open until 8 today due to a holiday; we’re later told it’s “2^nd Easter.”  Nearby McDonald’s also closed.  At the metro D & I settle for “nutritious” lemon cookies & Fanta orange drink, to M’s disdain (she settles for some machine coffee). 

We’re able with a little study to figure out the vending machine for our Tot Montserrat combination tickets; R5 train (1 hour each way), Aeri de Montserrat cable car (giving better views than a funicular option), use of other funiculars at the top, entry to museu, self-serve lunch, and even 2 metro tickets.  What a deal!  Train takes us thru a mix of industry & agriculture (artichokes & orchards, gorse-like yellow flowers).  Another clear blue sky day!  Cool AM (17C = 63F according to the train car readout), but it will be our warmest PM (28C = 82F); we later learn there were record temps for the date of 29C in London, 28C in Paris.  We soar high in the cable car to the basilica area, w/ promised spectacular views, then the San Juan funicular to go higher up.  Even more spectacular panoramas: a Shangri-La view of the basilica below perched among the mountains, snow-covered Pyrenees in the distance.  A gaggle of kids in bright yellow shirts adds a splash of color.   

Back down to the basilica.  A long line on one side (we discern later that’s to go up above the altar to touch the Black Virgin, a vision that was sighted in a cave nearby). 

 We instead head in thru another open door, walk around a bit, then settle into seats to wait for the famous boys choir from L’Escoliana choir school here.  The basilica fills up, standing room filled all around.  A very different view of the altar, murals, and such when the lights come on for the boys’ entrance.  It’s only a 10 minute concert, but quite lovely.  For one song people stand and sing along; M learns it’s a special song written for here that honors the Blessed Mother. 

            Off to the buffet lunch.  Some confusion about what’s included w/ our ticket: beer but not wine, croissants are considered dessert not bread.  A good lunch, tho not the quality or peaceful ambience of yesterday.  Then an interesting AV show & exhibits about the Benedictine monastery, including its history as a printing house.  Outside there are some serious rock climbers w/ coils of rope & pitons  ̶  this is a great place for it.   
          

          The train back to Barcelona is crowded; D & I stand the whole way, M finds a seat toward the end.  After resting sore tootsies at the hotel, we take Doug to our McCafe discovery for some treats; and discover that the young man who served us yesterday and today has an uncle in Queens. Small world.  Another perfect evening for a stroll, lots of people out, some on rollerblades, another on a unicycle.  Pretty fountains, one the setting for a romantic kiss. These strolling boulevards have such a mellow ambience; and Marjorie’s sensitive nose has detected marijuana a number of times.  Down Passeig de Gracia to Pl. Catalunya w/ fountains lighted now, then back up Rambla de Catalunya.  We pass El GLOP restaurant; seems an unfortunate name for an eating establishment, but it must mean something else here.  One more ATM stop (“la Caixa” w/ a pretty blue star logo) to cover tomorrow’s needs.  Thankfully, my ATM card wasn’t in my wallet.  One ATM seems a bit snippy, responding to my request w/ “I’m working on it.”  I’m starting to feel kind of free not having a wallet to worry about, tho I can’t recommend the reason for that.

Tuesday, May 25:

            Yesterday the mountains, today the waterfront.  Frommer’s says L’Aquarium and Museu Maritim are among the world’s finest.  Clear blue sky again.  CNN says there’s been a lot of rain in central Europe.  Metro down to the waterfront and Mirador de Colom (monument to Columbus); police on horseback passing beneath.  On Rambla de Mar we cross over an interesting floating bridge shaped like waves, Port Vell and many boats to one side, striking white figures on buoys on the other, Montjuΐc looming above.  Another picture-perfect day!  

 Into L’Aquarium de Barcelona.  Nice exhibits.  A glass-sided tunnel goes thru the big main tank w/ sharks, rays, many fish swimming all around and above you.  A colorful kids area.  The grandsons would love this place.  

 Not many people here when we arrived, but many school groups as we leave.  As we’ve found here and other trips, it’s good to be early for main sites like this. 
 Marjorie drags us into MareMagnum, described by Rick Steves as “a soulless Spanish mall.”  But to her credit we discover one of the colorful Imaginarium stores we’ve seen around the city, and all buy something for respective grandsons.  As we’re crossing the bridge back to the city a horn sounds  ̶  we have to scurry before the section we’re on is rotated to allow a sailboat to pass thru. 

Next stop is Museu Maritim at the site of Drassanes Reials (Royal Shipyards).  Some disappointment, as many exhibits closed for remodeling (price is correspondingly reduced).  But it’s still interesting: many intricate ship models, one large reconstruction of a lavish royal galley w/ beautiful woodwork, a large aqua blue wave sculpture made of popsicle sticks. 

Lunch outside under an umbrella on La Rambla: shared paella & ensalada (w/, as seems common here, egg & tunafish).   
      

Continuing on, we pass up a wax museum.  More strolling along narrow shop-infested (and photo op) streets.  A pretty shop of carnaval masks and other items, similar to New Orleans.  

On to Parc de la Ciutadella, w/ an ornate Gaudΐ fountain, nearby Mamuth (prehistoric mammoth) sculpture, a pretty lake w/ rowboats, roses & plane trees around the Parliament building. 

Heading back to the hotel M & I stop into a mercat for a few items to take home (and some very inexpensive wine that won’t last that long).  R & R, then back to El Corte Inglés to have a 9^th-floor cafeteria dinner watching the sun set.  A bit of shopping: M heads into the basement supermercat for more things to take back.  D & I find a floor that has an interesting juxtaposition: guy stuff like chainsaws and leaf blowers at one end, Swarovski crystal, Lladro, and Gaudί-inspired objects at the other.  

 After a gelato break we find big cranes lifting heavy bags up to the residential floor at Casa Battló; must be some major remodeling.

Wednesday, May 26:

Yet another blue sky AM.  Doug leaves very early for his flight, so we had goodbyes and hugs last night.  A last walk to the Diagonal metro (we’re going to miss the stretching giraffe along the way), we have D’s unused metro tickets to get to Pl. Catalunya for the Aerobús, which is only 5€ each vs. 27€ cab ride.  The bus fills up for a very efficient trip: out our hotel door at 7:30am, 8:30 at the aeropuerto.  No line for check-in, quickly thru security.  Very wide open spaces here, even a little playground in the portes area, and floors so shiny they’re disorienting.  Departure about 11:00.  A big thud landing in Madrid gets everyone’s attention.  Like a week ago, a trek to another terminal to change planes, but not thru additional security check this time.  Another camera view from the tail for our 2:20 takeoff.  About ½ hour early into JFK at 3:30, easy thru baggage and customs.  We exit the terminal into a wall of heat & humidity (it’s a steamy 92º); we already yearn for the Barcelona climate!  Airtrain and subway back to Queens.  Matt left a message on Marjorie’s phone w/ the car’s location.  No family around, so we hit the road.  Light dinner at a favored diner outside New Paltz, fireworks along the riverfront as we reach Albany (how nice of them to welcome us back), home about 9:30pm.

Barcelona was a wonderful experience!  We saw so much (and did so much walking!): fascinating art & architecture, mountains & gardens w/ beautiful views & spectacular panoramas, interesting museums & churches, lovely boulevards to stroll, pretty shops, good food.  A 3-magnet trip for my office decorations, including a cute little mosaic dragon a la Gaudΐ.  There was the metro mishap, but it’s now just an interesting part of the story.  The weather was gorgeous!!: warm sun, cool breezes, no humidity  ̶  and no bugs, so we could leave the window open at night for nice fresh air.  Marjorie deemed our lodging “the best hotel room;” comfy bed, good shower (if you were careful not to splash too much), lots of hanging and drawer space, plus very quiet & convenient location.   

The tour group was very agreeable: Marjorie says Doug’s been “a swell guy;” and she’ll give a good report to our Mom that her boys played nicely together.  Of course, many photos were taken: Doug probably gets the volume prize (but he had 2 cameras, after all), I was no slouch w/ nearly 600 pics, Marjorie was more selective w/ her doors (a specialty) and other architectural details, plus some video snippets like the boys choir and aquarium.

Bon Viatge!!