Bonnie Scotland

 

Bonnie Scotland

June 2023

 

            Scotland has been mostly missing in our European travels. I had some stops in Scotland at the beginning of a Viking Ocean Cruise with brother Doug, wife Ann, & daughter Katie before continuing to Norway & the Arctic Circle. But Marjorie is eager to go there, and I’d like to see more. Interest prodded by recent TV highlighting Scotland: Outlander, a time-travel romantic adventure I got hooked on during the COVID pandemic; The Crown, which includes views of Balmoral Castle, Scottish home of the Royal Family; a “Wildheart” episode of Nature focusing on 500-year-old pines in the Highlands; The Traitors, a reality show promising “backstabbing and treachery” hosted by Alan Cumming in a Scottish castle; we stream the 3 seasons of very enjoyable Ted Lasso. So it seems the planets are aligned for a trip to Scotland.

Gate1, with whom we’ve had a number of happy trips, has a few options. Though it

does not include the Orkney Islands I enjoyed, Marjorie opts for the somewhat shorter “10 Day Classic Scotland,” which looks quite comprehensive enough. This continues a very busy travel year: Cruisin’ down the Mississippi in January, Florida in March,  Orient Express London to Verona coming in September.

A couple weeks before departure there’s an “Uh-Oh” moment threatening the trip: Marjorie tweaks her knee during early garden work. Ortho doc confirms a torn meniscus, but should heal in 6-8 weeks. A brace stabilizes the knee and things improve. Also helped by a cane that belonged to late friend Jerry, a reminder of enjoyable travels with Jerry & Diane. 

Marjorie asserts the garden is in good shape, planting complete. A stretch of summer weather, up to the 90s. We’ll plan for more spring-like weather in Scotland. Thankfully, packing this time doesn’t entail jumping thru COVID hoops. But one complication: a CBD tincture helpful for Marjorie’s joint pain and my restless leg (she says I “sleep like a baby,” not kicking her) has THC, not legal in the UK. We’ll take a similar product without THCWed., June 7: “Canadian Smoke”

Wed., June 7: "Canadian Smoke"

        We wake up to a smoky haze, orange sun. A statewide air quality alert, advised to stay indoors, due to some 500 wildfires in Canada, as far up as Nova Scotia. We’d planned our usual drive to JFK Long Term Parking near the airport. But another option developed. Matt came up Sunday for his gig in the annual Mostly Modern Festival at Skidmore. Initial plan was he’d use our car, we drive his to the city, and maybe daughter-in-law Anthea drive us to & from JFK. But instead we drive our car for Anthea to use, we'll Uber to the airport. Matt will mow our lawn (tho grass is so burned from dry weather it may not need cutting), neighbor Barb will water the garden while we’re gone. The smoky haze thickens down to NYC, a very surreal sci-fi look. A lot of people wearing masks in the city. 

A short visit with Anthea, grandsons William & Miles, granddog Arlo; we admire their remodeled kitchen & Matt’s gardening. Then (can you believe it?) my 1^st Uber ride, courtesy of Marjorie’s ap. Nice to let someone else navigate traffic to JFK. Another novelty: never flown Virgin Atlantic; but flights actually “operated by” Delta going over & KLM coming back. Unfortunately, no “Economy Plus” seats on this flight, but we have our usual aisle seats. 10:05pm flight departs on time.

 

Thurs., June 8: “Failte gu Scotland”

            Our flight to Edinburgh arrives ½-hour early at 9:35am. Overcast & 65º. An inauspicious start: our luggage is the last off, no sign of Gate1 in the Arrival Hall. A bit of wandering and we connect – our flight was “too early” he says. We drive out of the airport into green countryside, pretty rows of houses as we enter outskirts of the city. We must be in the UK: we’ve used “lifts” and people drive on the left. To our hotel: Doubletree by Hilton Edinburgh City Centre. Greeted by friendly chatty German Tour Manager Ruth Bartram; paradoxically, we had a Scottish guide in Andalucía Spain.

Too early to check in so we explore the interesting neighborhood: 2 pubs across the street (convenient for Marjorie’s tongue-in-cheek plan to relax in pubs if walking proves too much), Edinburgh Castle looming above, National Museum & St. Giles Cathedral not far, an interesting barber shop with antique chairs and unusual decor including a motorcycle, another barber (3 Stooges Barber), 2 strip clubs with lap dances, a shop for antiques & curios, a kilt shop, Kick Ass Café and Hostel for Women, a couple offices of “Criminal Defence Solicitors." Into Tasty Buns, with server from Westchester NY (the 1^st of several “small world” experiences) for very decadent pastries. Yum! Salisbury’s Local has a nearby ATM for local currency (1 $ = .8 £) and gives Marjorie a chance to check out a local grocery. Back to the hotel to check in. Lift to our room has restaurant menu with “wee plates” & “not so wee plates.” A spacious room with 2 double beds, tho uninteresting view. 

I go out for more photo ops on a sunny PM. Lots of stairs down (and later back up, Whew!) to St. Cuthbert’s Churchyard with atmospheric cemetery. To a park with pretty fountain surrounded by flowers & gulls, Castle above in nice sun. Marjorie gets in a good nap.

An orientation meeting with Ruth & our group of only 14, a nice size to get to know people. Drinks & intros, into our tourist mode: voice boxes (aka “whispers”) & nametags. It’s a group of experienced travelers. Dinner in the hotel; we enjoy eating with Jerry & Janet from California. A good 1^st day. Well, one problem at night. It’s prom night and our room borders a stairwell frequented by loud carousers. Calls to the front desk: they’ll have “a wee talk with them.”

 Fri., June 9: “When Russ Meets Marjorie”

            A brisk early AM. I’m already stiff & sore from yesterday’s stairs. BBC news on the Canadian wildfires, Trump charged with 37 criminal counts of mishandling classified docs. Our 1^st included daily breakfast buffet, with typical European items like baked beans, cheeses, eggs, etc., plus more local fare like haggis (commonly overheard: “Have you tried the haggis?”) & black pudding. Another Gate1 group in the hotel (England/Scotland/Ireland), don’t get on the wrong bus! It becomes a nice warm sunny day for city touring. Onto a way too big bus, seating 54 for our now 12 (2 delayed en route until tonight). Guide Annika, driver Christine.

            Pulled from the internet: Edinburgh is fondly known as “Auld Reekie” (“Old Smokey”) reflecting smog created by smoke & chimneys.  Central Edinburgh has two parts divided by Princes Street. Old Town ( a World Heritage Site), the extent of twin burghs Edinburgh & Canongate for their 1^st 650 years. remains medieval with narrow alleys & tightly packed “closes” that contribute to many ghost stories. Old Town is also home to Scotland’s modern Parliament building. New Town, itself over 200 years old, is the commercial & business center. The Royal Mile runs between Edinburgh Castle & Holyrood Palace.

 

 

 

         Our tour takes us thru Old Town & New Town. Pretty Georgian homes, impressive churches & government buildings, shops, statues. So much to see! It’s a challenge to grab good photos from the bus. Below the Castle sitting on volcanic rock, Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital & 2^nd-largest city with some ½ million residents. Called Caledonia by the Romans, it was the furthest north of the Roman Empire. Past a circular church (because “the devil hides in the corners”). Private parks where a key is needed to enter. Onto the Royal Mile. Queen Elizabeth was brought here from Balmoral Castle and laid to rest in St. Giles before lying in state in London. We pass hikers amid lovely flowers in rugged Holyrood Park. Panoramic views from Carleton Hill. Past Greyfriars Bobby, sculpture of a skye terrier that guarded his owner’s grave for 14 years until he died in 1872. A stop to see a circle of stones representing Scottish areas and the nearby Parliament. Some time to rest at the hotel before heading to the Castle. Marjorie opts to stay here; she’s seen plenty of castles and there will be difficult walking.

  

 

         To the Castle. This is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe, beginning with an Iron Age fort on the rock, and there has been a royal castle on the rock since at least the 12^th C. It is said to be "the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world." There have been many hangings here, and 350 witches burned at the stake. We pass Witchery tours, as well as Scotch Whiskey Experience. Stands are being constructed for a military “tattoo” in August; entertainers will include 83-year-old Tom Jones. Sign says “Sold out today.” Entry capacity  has been gradually increased since the COVID pandemic. An overlook gives a panoramic view of the city to the Firth of Forth and North Sea. Impressive National War Memorial & Great Hall, but no photos allowed; when that happens I search the internet back home. Historical tidbits: a cannon that can shoot 2 miles, “whipping boy” refers to boys who stood in for the rich who were to be whipped for transgressions.

I opt to skip a 20-minute queue for the palace to instead leave the crowd here to walk to the National Museum of Scotland. On my way out I pass a bagpiper . . . and an owl!

 Arriving at the Museum, who’s there? It’s Marjorie, just arrived via uber! Totally unplanned, it feels like “When Harry Met Sally.” I learn she’s been busy moving our things to a quieter room, courtesy of the hotel after our noisy last night. A smaller room, 2 single beds, but quiet & nice Castle view. She chatted with a new bride at the desk, who asked her secret for our 52 years of marriage. Marjorie responds: "You'll notice he's not here.” Much laughter. Up to the 7^th floor terrace for panoramic views of the Castle & city. 

A very interesting & beautifully arranged variety of exhibits: a “wildlife panorama,” participatory percussion (percussionist Matt would enjoy), stuffed cloned sheep Dolly, and many more. A fabulous place! A pleasant café lunch, with 1^st scone of the trip, before an uber back to the hotel to recover from lots of walking.

After watching a TV show on renovating a chateau, out looking for dinner. Originally signed up for a Scottish Dinner & Show tonight, but sadly our group is too small. We find “Family Run Italian Restaurant” Frizzante near the hotel. A busy place. We’re right next to all the kitchen action, enjoying the choreography in a long narrow space. It feels very NYC. And very friendly. We share excellent pizza & dolci: Marjorie’s favorite affogato, tiramisu for me. I take Marjorie’s picture with a very tall young black man we’ve watched make desserts, drinks, etc. A perfect end to the day! Back to the hotel, passing Okey Dokey Tattoos, Fatty Owls, and more prommers. Continuing the NYC theme: Paul Simon’s 1991 Central Park concert on TV. It’s still quite light at 10:00, a reminder that we’re much more north than back home.

Sat., June 10: “Royal Luxuries”

            A quiet night. In the news: “a joy for the whole country” as 4 children aged 1-13 found alive in Colombian jungle 40 days after a plane crash killed all adults; Quebec “making progress” fighting wildfires; a Ukranian counter-offensive is underway.  Another beautiful day, sunny, up to about 70. Marjorie keeps up with Wordle at breakfast. Today is our only optional tour: Royal Yacht Britannia & Holyrood Palace. Onto a smaller bus (tho still much larger than our group needs), joined by our last 2 tour members. We meet Stephen, our driver for the rest of the trip. Off we go, Ruth narrating. Past warehouses converted to flats; “tenements” used to refer to flats above shops. A building mural portrays the history of Leith.

            To the Royal Yacht, entering thru a shopping mall. Britannia was the 1^st Royal Yacht with complete ocean-going capacity, designed as a royal residence to entertain guests around the world. Over 40+ years it sailed over 1 million nautical miles, calling at over 600 ports in 135 countries. The ship's name was not revealed until young Queen Elizabeth II smashed a bottle of wine (champagne considered too extravagant in post-war Britain) and announced "I name this ship Britannia… I wish success to her and all who sail in her" (as shown in The Crown).  Four Royal honeymoons on board, Princess Margaret & Anthony Armstrong-Jones the 1^st in 1960. Its decommissioning in 1997 (also highlighted in The Crown) marked the end of a tradition of British Royal Yachts dating to 1660. All clocks on board are stopped at 3:01, the time when Elizabeth stepped off the last time. It’s been named “Best UK Attraction.”

 

          Near the entrance is a LEGO model of the Yacht using 40,000 pieces! An audio guide leads us around the 125m of “streamlined elegance.” It carried 5 boats plus a Rolls Royce. A Veranda Deck provided privacy. A tea room above the royal quarters. Up to 5 tons of material was loaded on for official state visits. It took 3 hours to set all 56 places in the state dining room. Around the room are gifts from state visits. Bedrooms & sitting rooms look quite comfortable. And little stuffed corgis everywhere! Seems even better than a Viking River Cruise! Tho sailors’ quarters are more modest. Off again on the Royal Mile. Glad I’m not driving!

            Next stop: Holyrood House. Founded as a monastery in 1128, Scotland's kings & Queens chose to live here rather than bleak Edinburgh Castle. Mary, Queen of Scots, spent most of her life in the Palace.  In the 20^th C King George V & Queen Mary continued restoration & renovation, installing bathrooms, electricity, & lifts. They also began the tradition of Garden Parties. Each year members of the royal family entertain some 8,000 guests from all walks of Scottish life during Holyrood Week.

 

           We have audio guides, with some videos, but another no photos place. A lift for Marjorie avoids the Great Stairs. First thru the dining & throne rooms. Then each room in the State Apartments is more lavish & ornate leading to the king’s bedroom. A quiz in the Great Gallery to find a hidden door. We come to a winding staircase way too narrow for Marjorie (I have enough trouble myself!). She’s passed along from staff member to staff member to another lift; castle folk very accommodating thruout the trip. An abbey and gardens & hiking trails. As we wait to leave a bagpiper plays across the street.

 

          

After some relaxation & cookies at the hotel I head out for a walk in the sun. Past last night’s restaurant to Royal Lyceum Theatre, pretty storefronts & buildings. A return to St. Cuthbert’s, the oldest Christian site in Edinburgh, more castle views. For dinner back to Frizzante. Greeted like old friends, escorted to “our table.” Marjorie enjoys fried brie & another affogato, wonderful lasagna for me. Marjorie has a long chat with the mother of the owner. Ironic: a Scotland trip favorite is an Italian restaurant. Walking afterward we come to “Woman and Child,” a statue reflecting the struggle against apartheid.

Sun., June 11: “Royal & Ancient”

            Awake at 3am, a view of the Castle lighted, chimneys atop nearby buildings silhouetted against the early morning sky. This is our 1^st day “on the road.” Luggage outside the room by 7, breakfast and on the buss by 8. We’re back to the Way Too Big Bus. We learn Jerry & Janet did an Outlander tour yesterday. Tomorrow will be Stephen’s 50^th birthday; he promises to wear a kilt.

 

           Overcast & occasional light rain, drops on windows making photos from the bus even more challenging. Ruth talks about educational options in Scotland as we drive thru very green farm country. Over the Firth of Forth, into lovely countryside of hills & forests. 

To  Saint Andrews, home to the University of St Andrews where Prince William studied. The 3^rd-oldest university in the English-speaking world and the oldest in Scotland, ranked one of the best in the UK. Also the "home of golf” due to The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, founded in 1754, and the “Old Course,” the most frequent venue for The British Open, oldest of golf's 4 major championships. I’m missing 2 of my league rounds back home, but maybe the R & A will bless my game. We drive around the course a bit, parking next to a practice green, new clubhouse beyond; work being done on the old clubhouse. “Hazards” include high weeds, beach & water beyond. 

Into the pretty town to walk around, peeks into private gardens. Past a statue of “town cat” Hamish McHamish, made famous in Hamish McHamish of St Andrews: Cool Cat About Town. Marjorie walks with Ruth to St. Salvator’s Chapel at the University.

            Back on the road, Ruth giving more info about history & culture – too much to process! Like us, homelessness reflects lack of affordable housing, not enough pickers for the farms. More pretty countryside, lots of pretty gorse & heather along the road, the sky brightening. Over River Tay to Dundee, known for cancer research at the hospital & university. 

To Glamis Castle, said to have inspired Shakespeare’s MacBeth, and the childhood home of the Queen Mother. Too many steps & stairs for Marjorie here, she hangs around outside and with Stephen on the bus. Very busy, Highland Games here today. We grab lunch of soup & sandwiches. Again no interior photos. The Castle was built for Charlotte, who proclaimed it a “nasty, cold, drafty place.” The most haunted castle in Scotland, says the guide with a wry deadpan delivery.

 

 

 

         Brightening up as we leave. Ruth says it’s been a very dry year. More green countryside as we continue north, thru small villages, horses, cattle, sheep. Over River Tay again to Pitlochy, “birthplace” of Peter Rabbit. Our route takes us thru Cairngorm National Park, UK’s largest National Park named in the “Top 20 places to visit in the world” by National Geographic Traveler. Described as “jaw-dropping beauty” of mountains & rivers. Can’t argue with that. Some filming for the James Bond film, No Time to Die, took place in the area. And more mentions of Outlander along the way.

A stop for tasty ice cream cones, tho we pass on whiskey flavor. I chat with Stephen about my adventures driving on the left in Ireland, he says “in the Highlands we drive on what’s left.” Past a distillery. Nice sun in late afternoon & evening. To Morlich Hotel at MacDonald Aviemore Resort. Quite a complex within Craigellachie National Nature Preserve: hotels, conference center, cabins, children’s playground, indoor pool, golf courses, skating rink & skiing (even some spots of snow atop the mountains). Drinks & dinner at the hotel; we enjoy tasty Cairngorm IPA.

Mon., June 12: “A Lovely Place for a War”

 

 

 

         I slept well, up early. Out for a nice walk by the playground & a pond. Many large bunnies, pretty birds, a cacophony of bird songs. In the news: Scottish ex-PM Nicola Sturgeon arrested in a party finance probe, resigns as MP; Boris Johnson is reported to have misled Parliament about “lockdown parties” during the pandemic - “Can Boris Bounce Back?” The usual breakfast buffet. A nice sunny AM as we get on the bus. No kilt for Stephen, says it doesn’t fit any more (we can sympathize). Ruth brandishes a “spurtle,” used to stir porridge; Matt & grandson William would like one for their cooking. There’s a Golden Spurtle Competition in October for the title “World Porridge Champion.” 

Ruth does a recitation on prehistoric geology as we drive thru pretty forests in the National Park. A photo stop in Carrbridge, a small Highland village taking its name from an 18^th C packhorse bridge across the local river below the Monadhliath Mountains. Lots of yellow gorse along the road. Ruth talks about history back to Romans, Picts, Vikings, the 1^st Scots. She notes historical inaccuracies in Mel Gibson’s Braveheart movie. Past an old viaduct as we hear more history: William Wallace, Bonnie Prince Charlie. More sheep. Quite warm today, high 70s.

 

 

          To  Culloden Battlefield where Jacobite forces faced the British army in 1746, marking the collapse of the Jacobite uprisings. This was featured in Outlander. A film in the museum uses 4 screens to immerse you in battle. But now it’s so beautifully bucolic here.There’s an “Ancestry Hub.” Time for a morning scone. 

We pass windmills on the way to Inverness. We park by the Cathedral, a walk along the river. Other churches & castle across. A lovely spot. 

Into colorful shops Scotland Kilt Maker & Highland House of Fraser. A listing of clan tartans (we learned earlier there are over 300 registered plaids) shows no Ward; there is a Morgan, but Marjorie can’t find any tartan. 

Back to the Cathedral for lunch: soup & sandwich & scone in the lovely Cafe Ness. Into the Cathedral, a service in progress in a side chapel. A lovely interior. “Butterfly Memorial on one side, a response to COVID. A sweet children’s area. A stadium near our bus hosted the 1^st Highland Games in 1864.

 

           Back to the bus, a birthday serenade for Stephen, then on our way again. More gorse, more sheep. A photo stop to view Loch Ness, 22 miles long, deeper than the North Sea (755’), the largest volume of fresh water in Great Britain. Reports of a monster date to ancient times; 1^st written account in a bio of St. Columba in 565. Sadly, no sign of Nessie today. Ruth shares strawberries & “tablets,” a very tasty sugary candy. Past “Nessieland” boat tours to hunt for sea monsters. 

Up a steep hill on the way to a distillery. Over Moray Firth to Beauly and Glen Ord (now Singleton) Distillery. A very interesting 45-minute tour with Natalie on the process of making scotch, combining Black Skye barley from the area and water from nearby lochs. We learn about “single malt,” “angel’s share” (what’s lost to evaporation), the value of aging (one bottle here aged 50+ years is worth $36,000!), and other elements of making scotch.

            Dark clouds, then thunder & heavy rain. I run to get jackets & umbrellas from the bus. On our way, more heavy rain, lots of water pooling on the road. Stephen handles it well. Back to our hotel to relax before dinner and pack to leave tomorrow. Italian menu for dinner, Italian music playing. If it’s Monday, are we now in Italy? Mindless entertainment on TV: Sawblaze defeats Rotator in “Battlebots." More significant: Manchester completes a soccer “Treble”: titles in Premier League, Championship League, and FA Cup! Memories of Ted Lasso.          

Tues., June 13: “and more sheep”

            A wee stroll in early morning fog, communing again with the bunnies. BBC “Breakfast” shows the parade celebrating Man City’s Treble caught in yesterday’s storm. Back toward Inverness, lots of sheep & gorse. Up into thicker fog headed to the West coast fishing areas; Scotland is 2^nd to Norway in salmon exports. Past the Kirk of the Golden Cockrell, too fast to grab a photo! Mountains, villages, farms pretty in the low clouds. Ruth talks about religion, cattle, and sheep. Small villages have banks, cinemas, etc. “on wheels” via lorries. She relates stories about the mythical “Kelpies” we’ll see later. A roadside “Yellow Warning: Heavy Rain Forecast.” We saw that sign yesterday, hope we’re spared today. Promisingly, clouds & fog give way to sunshine. Mountains, lakes & streams, bright gorse & rhododendron, sheep. Wow!

            A stop for photos by a train station near Achnasheen. Another nearby tour bus with attitude: “The Hairy Coo: Honk if You’re Horny.” Ruth points out terraces in the hills from the Ice Age. 

Passing Loch Carron on a single-lane road. Stephen knows the choreography: “rules” to follow for pulling over to allow faster traffic to pass or using occasional spaces for passing. To Strathcarron for coffee & tasty shortbread (Marjorie gets the recipe), Craft shop & gallery, with a “wee shop” for children. Dog Tessa eagerly plays fetch. A lovely & friendly spot. Beach Boys “Good Vibrations” playing, seems appropriate. Continuing on via lovely forest along the loch  Ruth has more to tell: the history of Sunday prohibitions, the importance of identity & pride to Scots (“We’re not English!”).

            Another photo stop: Eilean Donan Castle, most photographed castle in Scotland, on an island where 3 lochs meet. Only 100 years old, built as a holiday home. Parked nearby is a “Screen Machine,” a cinema on wheels. We’re surrounded now by incredible mountainous beauty. There’s a “Monro” list of mountains 3000’ or more; you get a certificate if you climb all 282 Monros. Ruth puts on music from Outlander, talks about Bonnie Prince Charlie (he didn’t have a good end).

Onto the Isle of Skye, largest & most northern islands of the Inner Hebrides. Very dramatic rugged terrain, and sheep, of course. Just can’t stop taking photos! To Armadale: castle & gardens, Museum of the Isles, Spiritual Home of Clan Donald. A beautiful walk around the gardens. T-shirt in the gift shop: “So Many Whiskeys, So Little Time.” More history: Scots came from the north of Ireland in about 500 AD, defeated the Picts. Stephen cleans the bus exterior, as he does just about every stop. A convenience store lunch on the bus.

            On to the ferry “Catedonian MacBrayne” for a 40-minute ride to Mallaig. Lots of jellyfish in the water below. Marjorie gets a “lift” to the upper decks. The road away takes us past more beautiful scenery, hills, forests, lochs, even white sand beaches. 

To Glenfinnen, Stephen gets applause for a tricky parking job. A “gentle uphill walk” (well, more strenuous than that, Marjorie stays below) to a wonderful view of mountains & loch, Highlander Monument and viaduct used by Hogwarts Express. Marjorie texts Harry Potter fan grandson Miles a photo, he's excited we’re seeing such an “incredible iconic” scene. Steam train rides here take you over the viaduct. A museum shop has a collection of children’s books; e.g., “There Was a Wee Lassie Who Swallowed a Midgie” (thankfully, we never encountered those nasty little bugs).

            A pretty ride toward our hotel in Fort William on Loch Linnhe facing Ben Nev, Britain's highest peak at 4,406’. The area has been featured in movies such as Braveheart. Slowed by a very long line of traffic due to an accident. They’ve had some rain here. Our hotel Ben Nevis Hotel & Leisure Club is in another ski area. It has more “mileage” than our other hotels. Unusual portraits in the lobby. We meet for drinks & dinner, joined by a couple of other groups. We walk with a few others to a nearby Marks and Spencer, but it’s closed, so into an Aldi’s instead. Back to the hotel, past more sheep. What a spectacular day! A gorgeous PM until some dark clouds & thunder later.        

Wed., June 14:”Bonnie Banks and Bonnie Brae”

            A beautiful sunny AM. Heading out, past an “Elderly People” pedestrian sign. Another Wow! drive along the loch. Reflections of colorful boats & mountains, valleys & moors. Ruth talks about the seafood economy, more on the history of clans. Glen Campbell was supposedly thrown out of a pub unfriendly to Campbells. Ruth plays “Skyfall” by Adele – an opening scene of the James Bond movie was filmed in this valley. By Glencoe “Valley of the Tears” with a song about the slaughter of Clan MacDonald. A photo stop overlooking Loch Tur, site of Ian Fleming’s family holiday home. We’re by the West Highland Way hiking trail. Ruth points out how ferns have choked out heather here. And imagine that: it’s a whole hour before we see sheep!

            Sign: “Welcome to the District of Sterling: Scotland’s Heart.” We’re also entering Trossachs National Park, Scotland’s 1^st NP (2002). A “Green Welly Stop” for the best scone plus sandwiches for lunch later. 

Ruth gets theatric with poems by Robert Burns & Sir Walter Scott as we go to Loch Lomond (“Lake of the Elms”), largest lake in Great Britain with 30 islands. Sir Walter Scott wrote his epic poem The Lady of the Lake (1810) about a girl who lived here. We board for a very enjoyable 45-minute boat excursion from Inverunglas to Tarbert, with Jeremy & John. Perfect weather, warm sun, cooling breeze. Views of mountains all around, an island fortress, 18^th C lodge, a keeper’s cottage, “Honeymoon Island” (can your marriage last a stay there?), a classic fishing dingy. There are salmon, trout, & pike here, merganser birds. Jeremy indicates that Rob Roy was not really such a “good guy,” and notes issues abut the management of fish & forests. Off the boat, a pretty spot for a bagpiper’s serenade during lunch until he leads another group to a boat tour. There’s a Royal Bank of Scotland Bank on Wheels, and “Castle Mania” that looks like a party in a truck. As we depart Ruth plays "The Bonnie Banks o' Loch Lomond." This reminds me of my own Scottish roots, growing up on Bonnie Brae Avenue.

            Another traffic jam before reaching the Hilton Glasgow. Ruth announces sadly that she will be unable to join us for the Farewell Dinner tomorrow night and introduces John Cowan,  who will take over final guidance. Small world: in 1987-88 John was in “Gathering of Clans,” a show of singing, dancing, storytelling that began a US tour near us at Proctor’s in Schenectady!

John directs a city tour. Glasgow (from Gaelic Glaschu, “Green Glen”), along both banks of the River Clyde, is the largest city in Scotland and 4^th in the UK. We head down to the River Clyde, murals from the Commonwealth Games on overpasses. A bit of a whirlwind, past the financial district to the old part of the city. Bridges and parks along the river, the old fish market and oldest street in the city, a bowling green, oldest house (1471) under reconstruction, many towers & spires, High Street to the top of town, a medieval cathedral. 

John stops to enlist us in a brief play on the birth of Christianity here; I’m selected as an “old man” who becomes St. Serf. He shows us how the legend is represented in a coat of arms displayed on light poles. A Museum of Religious Life has all religions represented. 

Into the Cathedral, down to the 12^th C beginnings; a couple of Outlander scenes were filmed here. Past brand-new Strathclyde University, with technology areas including nanotechnology (a specialty also at UAlbany). To George Square, the heart of the city, with Sir Walter Scott monument. City Chambers covered in statues. Busy Buchanan Street with shops & restaurants. John shows how many buildings have been cleaned up since the clean air initiatives of the 1970s & 80s, but some still show the blackened effects of soot & fog. John wore a smog mask at school.

 

We turn toward 21^st C Glasgow. Apartments, stores, theatres, casinos, etc. Past “Swiss Cheese” car park. Science Museum, Planetarium, Riverside Museum along River Kelvin. Here also is Glasgow University, dating to 1451. 

A stop at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Beautiful Main Hall, and interesting looking areas to each side. Sadly, no time to come back here. Past a Sikh temple, Leaning Tower of Valasco. Whew! A lot more here than expected. It seems more of a “big city” than Edinburgh.

Back to the Hilton, above a tangle of busy roads. We have a big room on the 11^th floor with a nice view toward the city. Down to the Whiskey Mist Bar for pizza & salad. I take a short stroll after dinner. In the news: a row in Parliament over “shameful” patronage in Boris Johnson’s “honours list.”

 

Thurs., June 15: “It’s a Small World, Continued”

            Another beautiful sunny morning! Down to the breakfast buffet. The Restaurant Manager is from Oneonta NY near us, went to RIT in Rochester, where I grew up. He spent 2 years backpacking around the world and settled here. We don’t get going today until 9:00! Following up yesterday, Ruth brings a rose, recites “My love is like a red, red rose.” She gives each of us a “Forescasting Stone” notepad; e.g., stone wet: raining, stone gone: tornado. On the road with her a last time, telling us about the Battle of Stirling and other history: Robert the Bruce aka Braveheart & William Wallace, leaders of the 1^st War of Scottish Independence in the 13^th C. Past a studio used for Outlander, Angel of the North sculpture by the same sculptor as the Kelpies. Pretty countryside, more sheep. A perfect day, not a cloud in sight.

            To Stirling Castle, one of the largest in Scotland, atop an extinct volcano surrounded on 3 sides by steep cliffs. Its history dates from the early 12^th C, the site of several historic battles and besieged at least 8 times. Colorful flags including Pride colors along the ramparts, joined by a purple-uniformed school group later as we leave. Beautiful flowers. A somewhat steep cobblestoned walk up, then Marjorie is shown access to a lift into upper rooms. Thru colorful rooms with costumed guides. A nice video on the Castle’s creation, showing some of the original coloring. Thru the royal apartments & chapel. 

A stop in the café. Passing the women’s restroom line, can’t help but think: if men had to wait in such lines there would be a lot more bathrooms. Views from the ramparts over the town & countryside. Back to the bus, down thru the pretty town. Past windmills, very flat countryside.

            We arrive at an incredible site: the “Kelpies,” the world's largest equine sculptures, 30-metre-tall horse-head sculptures of structural & stainless-steel weighing 300 tons each! Completed in 2013 after 10 years work. Much bigger than we expected. They depict mythological water horses that can shape-shift into humans as a monument to horsepower in Scotland’s heritage. Marjorie sends another photo to Miles. A short walk along the Forth and Clyde canal, lined with houseboats & other boats. Children’s playground nearby. A nice little Visitor Center, space for children to draw their own Kelpies.

  

 

         Before getting on the bus Ruth shares little drinks of irn bru, a carbonated soft drink “often described as Scotland's other national drink (after whisky)” (Wikipedia). Then Ruth says her goodbyes as we drive back: “Thank you for taking me with you. Hasty back.” Then she plays “King of the Road” for Stephen. They’ve been wonderful travel companions. More music, bagpipes finishing with “Auld Lang Syne.”

            At the hotel back to Whiskey Mist for evil mid-PM snacks: sticky toffee pudding for me, skinny fries for Marjorie. For some reason she starts taking about dieting when we’re home. Before heading out again Jerry directs Marjorie to the gift shop for the spurtles she’s been looking for. 

          

Another ride thru the city with John narrating. Thru Blythewood, Georgian townhouses. Busy shopping streets & squares, To the restaurant for our Farewell Dinner in what was the Citizen newspaper building. A last big staircase for Marjorie to manage to our 2^nd floor dining. We get names/e-mails to send people my trip journal and blog link. Back to the hotel to pack for a 4:15am wakeup call. A gorgeous sunset from our room.

Fri., June 16: “Celebrating at 37,000’”

            Happy Birthday to me! Mary Beth sends a good news e-mail: people with more birthdays live longer! In other news: Boris Johnson says he’s the victim of a witch hunt, has done nothing wrong. Where have we heard that before? Sun just coming up as we leave for the airport at 5:15, a wee wave goodbye from John. Have to wait a bit to check in, breakfast from bags given us by the hotel. Check in & security go smoothly. Then a very long walk past many shops, from Boots to Krispy Kreme, to reach the gates. 2 men waiting with us ask about Marjorie’s knee; told it was caused moving things in the garden they advise: DDIY (Don’t Do It Yourself), They are part of many soccer fans on the flight, heading to a big game in Norway.

            This last day isn’t the easiest for Marjorie: she’s pulled out at security, has to climb stairs into the plane (and back out at the other end) – she’s looking a bit frazzled, no surprise. My seatmate will be meeting family in Amsterdam he hasn’t seen since the COVID pandemic. Some delay departing in hazy sun, nice views below. A plane full of “football” fans, kilts & beer much in evidence – seems a fine way to complete our Scotland experience. A big wind farm as we near The Netherlands, pretty views of neat & tidy farms & towns. 

Arrival only 10 minutes behind schedule. In anticipation of our 5-hour layover in Amsterdam airport I purchased vouchers for the KLM Lounge. Thru pretty Schiphol Airport to the lounge. A big space divided into several parts, nicely decorated, food & drink, very relaxing. Marjorie gets some help connecting to the internet, plays some Wordle. And she gives me a birthday cake: a muffin with candle.

            Our last flight has lots of movie & music choices, cool graphics for the introductory instructions. On our way, as the attendant is serving drinks she leans down: “Is it a special day for ya? Would you like some champagne?” Marjorie also gets a small bottle of champagne. A BD card from the crew. Plus time changes on this flight add another 6 hours to my “birthday festival” (as Marjorie likes to call hers). 

Landing at JFK a little early, some light rain, the smoke appears to have mostly cleared (tho it comes back in 2 weeks). A painfully slow line at passport control. After a too-brief visit with Queens family to get our car, I drive thru rain the 3 hours home, there about 12:30am. Back in time for Matt’s last Skidmore concert tonight – if we can stay awake.

 

            It was a bonnie, bonnie, trip! Such beautiful countryside, mountains & lochs, interesting historic towns & villages, museums, a variety of castles & other royal sites – and did I mention the sheep? Couldn’t do everything, of course. Need to avoid “castle overload,” and we didn’t do any witching or whiskey “experiences.” Our small group of companions were very congenial & fun to travel with, and thoughtfully adapted to Marjorie’s pace as needed. Ruth & Stephen were a wonderful team. As usual on these tours, it’s impossible to process all the information passed along, but we enjoyed Ruth’s very dramatic storytelling to illustrate historical & cultural points. The weather was unbelievably good. Only a couple spots of light rain and one thunderstorm (apparently unusual here). What are the odds on coming back with a tan from Scotland? Ruth kept thanking us for bringing such good weather. Good food & drink, comfortable accommodations. Marjorie gets my Golden Cane Award. She managed very well, did what she could, didn’t overdo. She was also our IT Department: WiFi to check e-mail on her phone, her Uber ap. Regrets? Not much on TV, tho Marjorie enjoyed some house-hunting and fix-it-up shows. I didn’t pack for such warm temps. But these are niggling details. It was a wonderful experience!