Maine 2022

 

Quintessential Maine

August 2022

             We’re in need of some R&R, Marjorie especially has been overloaded dealing with “home improvement projects”: new water heater, porch & deck remodeling, painting garage walls and adding an epoxy floor, fencing in the back yard, dehumidifier issues. We’ve connected recently with friends Robert & Kim when they pass thru to & from Eastman School of Music, where their son Alex is studying. They invited us to visit them in Maine. Had a wonderful visit in 2011, We’re delighted to accept the offer to return.

 Thursday, August 18: “Driving Down East”

         

 A more relaxed departure than usual, no crack of dawn flight to catch. A nice cool AM as we leave at 7:45. Unusual low clouds amid the Albany skyline; Marjorie scores the 1^st trip photo from a bridge crossing the Hudson. 

Along the Mass Pike to Cambridge for our 1^st stop: Mount Auburn Cemetery. The avenue takes us past lovely churches (1-stop shopping?) and lawns even drier & browner than ours. Nice sun in & out as we explore the 175-acre grounds, aptly described as “Arcadian Loveliness.” Established 1831, the 1^st landscaped rural or “garden” cemetery in the US. More hilly & thickly forested than Albany Rural Cemetery near us. Up to Washington Tower with a view of distant Boston skyline. We’re puzzled by bags hanging from some trees. A worker says they protect caterpillar breeding, and agrees they are “good” caterpillars (unlike the “bad” tent caterpillars around us). 

Around a pond to Story Chapel, parking by signs for “Visitor Parking Only.” Hmmm, who else would be parking? Surely not the “residents.” Notable residents include: cook & author Fanny Farmer, hospital reformer Dorothea Dix, Supreme Court Justice Felix Frankfurter, sportscaster Curt Gowdy, painter Winslow Homer, poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, psychologist B. F. Skinner. A short walk to the Chapel, oops, have to go back to get a mask for inside. A pretty interior, lovely stained-glass windows. A view of nearby Asa Gray Garden’s beautiful flowers & fountain. 

Up to Bigelow Chapel. Closed, but views of nearby Ben Franklin monument, impressive Sphinx (a Civil War memorial), and down to the garden and other Chapel. We rely on GPS “Missy” to lead us into & out of the Boston area; Missy & I seem to be getting along better than on some of our travels.

           

A stop for breakfast at Topsfield Coffeehouse with pleasant musician out front, but only coffee. Bagel Bin Deli in a nearby plaza serves the purpose. Our drive continues into New Hampshire past Portsmouth into Maine (“The Way Life Should Be” says the Welcome sign). Past Kittery, known for its outlets. We wonder if they are taking a hit from on-line shopping like the Lake George Outlets near us. 

A side trip past beautiful homes in York to a beach and Nubble Light. It meets its billing as one of the most popular; Marjorie drops me off to take photos until she finds a parking place. It is indeed the quintessential lighthouse view (“quintessential” becomes our vocabulary word for the trip) and coastline views.

           

We take the “scenic” route along Rt.1, leading to some bumper-to-bumper traffic thru Ogunquit, Wells, Kennebunk, Saco, to Scarborough. A stop for gas: only $4.01 (it has been close to $5). Past “Aquaboggen” and other water parks: “No Salt. No Sand. No Sharks.” A quick swing over to Scarborough Marsh. Unable to locate an Audubon Visitor Center (we later learn it’s the small scruffy place we passed by), but we find a place to park for some views & photos.

A short drive to Sarah Liberty Lane and Robert & Kim’s beautiful house in a lovely forested setting; don’t know who Sarah Liberty is, sounds like a suffragette. We have very nice accommodations, some of Kim’s excellent photography on the wall. The house is beautifully decorated, including Kim’s colorful glass violin bottle collection. To introduce our hosts: Robert was conductor of the Repertory Orchestra when our son Matt was in the Empire State Youth Orchestra; we were the B&B for him and fellow ESYO conductor Francisco Noya. Robert, also a violinist, is now a Professor at the U of Southern Maine. Kim is also a professional musician, playing the viola. Their son Alex plays flute. Older son Eric lives in the area, works in digital technology. 

Robert & Alex are out, Robert part of a search for a guitar professor, Alex performing chamber music. We have dinner with Kim at Nonesuch River Brewing. Interesting beer & food options; e.g., grilled watermelon salad, grilled pretzels & cheese dip. Not our usual healthy fare, but we’re on vacation.

 Friday, August 19: “Marshes. Marshes, Marshes”

            I’m up & out at dawn to explore. Back to the Marsh and Audubon Center. I’m not the only photographer out for pretty sunrise views of marshland, weeds along a trail, but no birds until one stops by as I’m leaving. 

To Fuller Farm Preserve for more photo ops: pretty weeds & trees in the early morning light. Back “home” for breakfast.

            Robert & Kim head out for bike rides, we drive into Portland past a light blue State Police car (seems sneaky!). First stop: Victoria Mansion, a short walk from street parking thru a pretty brownstone neighborhood, just in time for the 1^st tour. An interesting & witty docent covers construction materials, furnishings, history. “Among the most important” 19^th C homes, built in Italianate design in 1860 as the summer home for a New Orleans hotelier. Saved from demolition by a NYS retired school superintendent. Beautiful wood trim and ceilings painted to look like wood, stained-glass windows, decorated walls and other touches that include painted sinks.

 

 

          Next to Portland Observatory, Marjorie observes that Portland is like Lisbon: “Everything is uphill!” Another excellent docent for a more-than-expected tour up 6 floors, 104 steps. The only remaining historic maritime “signal tower” (not lighthouse, a lookout atop a hill rather than guiding ships), built by a retired sea captain. Interesting exhibits: hoisted flags, an unusual telescope mounting system, a detailed nautical chart of the coastline. 360º views up top from Casco Bay to Mt. Washington in New Hampshire, interesting rooftops below. It’s a “Wow, what a view!” spot. The tower was spared during the Great Fire of 1866, used in WWII to spot enemy planes (a 94-year-old docent here was a runner as a Boy Scout).

            Down to street level and into downtown. As I’m taking a photo we’re greeted effusively by . . . Jim Fry! (Jim’s even in the photo!) Jim & Peg are friends from Marjorie’s Community Health Plan days, haven’t seen them in years. They’d moved to Tennessee, recently returned here. We’ll connect for dinner, and Jim points us toward lunch possibilities.  Past a building window with Godzilla and a Happy Birthday message by the Maine College of Art and Design to Monument Square for lunch at Berk’s Perks. Lots of sun and warm (mid-80s).

            After-lunch strolling. Portland has interesting buildings, colorful pennants, art & craft shops. A puzzling building labeled “Time and Temperature.” Originally the Chapman Building built 1924 with Maine’s 1^st indoor shopping center. Now named after a large 3-sided display screen on the roof that flashes local time & temp. How do people see it atop a 14-story building? We chat with an artist displaying her colorful work at the Union of Maine Visual Artists. Marjorie spends time at Kim-recommended Reny’s (“A Maine Adventure”), finds a few things of interest. I walk over to the Portland Museum of Art, but not enough time to go in. We rendezvous at the car; Marjorie freaked out that her new smart phone remembers where we parked! And I realize I’m now being led around by 3 women: wife, GPS, phone.

            Heading back to Scarborough, a stop at Len & Libby’s Candy and Gifts to see a life-size chocolate-covered moose (with bear for company). Sculpted in 4 weeks in 1997 with 1700 lbs of chocolate. Back home to violin & viola practice serenades in the house. Robert, who grew up in Mexico, prepares a Mexican dinner, Marjorie helping Kim make tortillas. After dinner we bookend my day to see sunset at Pine Point Beach, a seal coming up way in the distance. 

Past the Marsh, home to hear Alex on the flute, Marjorie’s blueberry/corn cake for dessert. Kim’s video (with music) of photos from their travels in Mexico & Europe during Robert’s sabbatical in 2017-18 completes a very full fun day!

 Saturday, August 20: “Bakery, Flowers, and Pizza”

            Another dawn exploration. Perfect timing for sunrise at a beach, more coastal views. Thru Old Orchard Beach and Ocean Park, past a big amusement park. Back home, I have to shake sand from my shoes. Another sunny day, cool AM (72) but hotter (high 80s) & humid in the PM. 

          Off on our own, trying to be low-maintenance guests. Missy directs us to Bath and Mae’s Café and Bakery for breakfast. A pretty place, friendly people, good food. We start by sharing a sinful pecan bun (we get the last one!), then “The Blues” for me (blueberry pancakes with real maple syrup in a cute little bottle), perfect poached eggs Benedict for Marjorie. Afterward a drive past more marshes, cannabis outlets, thru Wiscasset (self-proclaimed “prettiest village in Maine”), by a costumed reenactment. Heavy traffic in the other direction (and luckily reversed when we head back later).

            To our principal stop: Coastal Maine Botanical Garden. We’d been here in 2011, but R & K say it’s been built up more. Opened 2007, much to see on 295 acres: flowers in a variety of settings, butterflies, 5 trolls spread around. There’s a poem describing trolls as “Guardians of the Seeds” and a sweepstakes for “Camping with the Trolls.” 

We cover a lot of ground with help from 2 trolley rides: 4 of the 5 trolls, Butterfly House, Garden of the Senses, Children’s Garden, Fairy House Village. The latter is a fun DIY ranging from simple bundles of sticks to more elaborate constructions.

            A short drive to Boothbay Harbor. Can’t find parking near the harbor, Marjorie stays with the car while I take photos. Searching for lunch, eventually back to Mae’s; they’re closing, but we get yummy bakery to eat on the porch. M drops me off then goes to a flea market with some success. Kim takes the lead for dinner, using their outdoor pizza oven by the patio. Alex prepares salad. There’s some drama doing the individualized pizzas done properly in the humidity. Robert has made a strawberry dessert cake for dessert. A wonderful dinner!

 Sunday, August 21: “Subterfuge and Diagonal Sauntering”

            My usual early outing seeking photo ops. Mostly sunny and headed toward mid-80s again. South to Saco, which reminds me of Cohoes near us with lots of old mill buildings now condos. Nice views from the Yacht Club of boats on the river, impressive St. Andrews on a hill on the other side; tho a Yacht Club member tells me it’s now closed. Other interesting views & buildings in the downtown. Back thru marshes, mist rising. 

North to Cape Elizabeth, dodging bikers & walkers. Into Fort Williams Park, views of Portland Head Light and the coast. 

A stop for $3.99 gas! (and it’s $3.96 by evening) Back for breakfast. Robert & Kim talk about some of the difficulties they face in string quartet gigs; e.g., wedding requests for music by Katy Perry, Van Halen, not Bach or Haydn.

            We’re all together for today’s outing. A colorful Farmers Market by Town Hall. Thought for the day from Julia Child: “A party without cookies is just a meeting.” In that spirit, M & I share a wild blueberry “hand pie” from Renee by the Bay. A drive by fancy-schmancy homes on Prouts Point to Hagen’s Beach. R & K share difficulties with neighbors accusing them of “subterfuge” over construction on their 2^nd home on the coast. And we’re yelled at for stopping so I can take a couple of photos at the beach. They relay a story of being accused of “diagonal sauntering” by a driver who almost hit Kim in a parking lot. So maybe Maine isn’t quite Paradise. 

We continue on to Kettle Cover and Spring Point by a Community College campus. Cute little Bug Light. Colorful kites, views of the city across Casco Bay (we can see the Observatory) and along the coast to Portland Head Light. A large ship memorial. Across Casco Bay on a drawbridge to Commercial St. along the waterfront.

            Lunch at $3 Dewey’s Ale House. Quintessential chowdah with oyster crackers. M & K head toward shops. R & I toward the wharf. Past a piece of the Berlin Wall, into a fish market, lots of boats, lobster traps, seagulls. We reconnect by colorful shops and impressive City Hall.

            Dinner tonight with Peg & Jim at David’s on Monument Square to cap off another quintessential Maine day: lighthouses, chowder, lobster roll. And it’s so wonderful to catch up with them. They have grandchildren living near us in Troy, so we won’t have to wait so long to get together again. Our drive back takes us by abandoned Scarborough Downs race track, overgrown with weeds.

 Monday. August 22: “Elevating Home”

            Another cool, fresh AM, more clouds. We head south to Saco, breakfast at The Golden Rooster (“Something to Crow About”) on pretty Main St. in the “Historic Downtown.” Friendly service, good food, seems to be a gathering place for local seniors. 

Out to Biddeford Pool for some foggy coastline views. Colorful homes along a neck of land; a real estate office shows many $4-5 million properties. By College of New England in a pretty setting. To Ocean State Job Lots in Sandford, a nice store where Marjorie finds the excellent coffee we’ve been having with R & K plus a few other things. Some sprinkles and occasional rain on the way back. On the Mass Pike we climb over “The highest elevation on I-90 east of South Dakota.” Such an exciting way to finish our travels.

 

A truly quintessential trip! Excellent weather, wonderful reunions with friends, Maine sights & tastes. We never stopped at The Holy Donut for their potato donuts, so there’s something left for another visit.