Portugal’s River of Gold
Spring 2022
Viking River Cruises are a favorite
travel option: Marjorie & I have cruised together 5 times, plus another for
each of us with a sibling. Susan, M’s cousin Jim’s wife, called with an itch to
do Viking’s “Portugal’s River of Gold.” We enjoyed traveling
with Susan & Jim in Andalucia Spain (2015), so our interest was piqued. Been
to Lisbon and nearby areas (2005), but other parts of this trip looked plenty
interesting. Everything set for early August 2020 until the
COVID-19 pandemic. We already had a tour cancelled in May cancelled;
ironically, highlighted by the Oberammergau, Germany, Passion Play begun some
400 years ago as a promise to God if the village was spared from the plague. We rescheduled for July 2021, but COVID causes another cancelation. Both
times Viking gives a voucher for re-booking worth 125% of what we’d paid, a
nice bucket of cash to pay for some extras. Another rebooking for April 2022.
The pandemic ebbs & flows, but protocols put in place by Viking lend some confidence:
required vaccination documented by Verifly Vaccine Certification phone app,
predeparture health survey, negative COVID test within 72 hours of 1st flight, frequent
on-ship testing. In addition Portugal requires a Passenger Locator Card before arrival.
International travel is so complicated now! But by now Viking has done over 2
million tests for over 100,000 guests & crew; they conclude: “We believe
there are few places one can go that are as safe as a Viking ship, where every
person is fully vaccinated and is tested up to daily.” So it looks like this is
actually going to happen! Just as COVID restrictions ease Europe
is dealing with economic turmoil and humanitarian tragedy created by Russia’s
brutal invasion of Ukraine in late February; some 4 million refugees have fled
Ukraine by late March! But Ukrainian defenderses
hold off Russian forces more effectively than expected, as the
rest of the world expresses solidarity and keeps ratcheting up military &
humanitarian support to Ukraine and economic sanctions on Russia.
We’re active leading up to the trip. A
busy March 25-27 weekend. Friday to the Flower & Garden Expo at HVCC with
some of Marjorie’s Garden Explorers & friend Linda McKenna. Some pretty
displays, tho not as many as we’d expected vs. lots of vendors. Saturday brings
the Empire State Youth Orchestra’s Playathon at Crossgates Mall, back after a
COVID hiatus and the 1
st for new ESYO Music Director Etienne. Brings
fond memories of Matt’s percussion beginnings. Marjorie wins an auction to
conduct “Stars and Stripes,” instead passes the baton to John Antonio, Matt’s 1
st
percussion mentor; he seems very pleased.
Sunday another of our whirlwind
12-hour-turnaround NYC for a musical
version of
Tuck Everlasting. Grandson Miles has a lead (and gets a
mention in
The New York Times!),
joined by frequent co-thespian Charles; we think maybe in 20-30 years they’ll
do “The Odd Couple” together. A wonderful staging of “Tuck,” not as sad as the
movie version we watched last night, and Miles is wonderful as always! After
some Spring blossoms (cherry?) in the city, the ride home brings snow squalls,
temps in the teens next AM! Speaking of ESYO, Thursday brings a reunion lunch
with former ESYO conductor/houseguest Robert & Kim Lehman as they pass thru
the area.
Another busy weekend before the trip. Saturday
Marjorie attends an excellent production of
Mary Poppins at Shaker HS,
starring a former student at the summer art program she oversaw at the Pruyn
House. Sunday after Mass the Bishop blesses and cuts the ribbon for St. Pius’
new Parish Life Center.
Marjorie attends an ESYO concert that begins with the Ukraine
national anthem (which I sang at a Mendelssohn Clun rehearsal), stage lit with
its blue & yellow colors. And by the way, Sunday we have COVID Rapid PCR
tests – negative! YAY!
We’re looking for more Spring-like
weather in Portugal. We’re also in great need of some R&R. Marjorie’s been
wrestling with our balky computer & e-mail while managing her Relay for
Life fundraising (surpassing her goal again!) and ticket orders as Ticket
Coordinator for the Mendelssohn Club concert in May (which, sadly, I will miss).
I’ve been living an IRS nightmare: 2020 refund still lost somewhere in the
bureaucracy, which also prevents electronic filing of 2021 taxes.
Tuesday, April 5:
“One More Form!”
AM news: “Travel Chaos Coast to
Coast.” Hope that’s not us. We’re off very efficiently before 9 to drive to
NYC, past forsythia & daffodils. To JFK Long Term Parking by noon, a shuttle
to JFK. Our terminal pretty quiet, over to check in . . . but he says we need another
Passenger Locator Form for Spain, even tho we only pass thru Madrid airport. A
very helpful woman at Hotel Reservations desk uses her computer to fill out
& print the form for us.
Still several hours until our flight, we pamper
ourselves with American Airlines Lounge day-pass, settling in for food & wine. Boarding on time for 5:35pm
flight, but then we sit 2 hours for some maintenance.
Wednesday, April 6:
“Bem Vindo a Portugal”
An uncrowded flight, maybe 1/3 full.
An hour late to Madrid-Barajas airport at 7:30am, still almost a 4-hour
layover. Signs to observe etiqueta respiratoria with masks & social
distancing. Thru customs & security, they check our PLFs & COVID tests,
confiscate a small corkscrew. The
architecture here reminds us of Gaudi designs in Barcelona; plus, of course,
Starbucks & McDonald’s.
Our room
is very nice, a beautiful view toward the Tagus River, Alfama District, and
Castelo de São Jorge. I take a walk around the neighborhood before an
orientation meeting with Program Director Raquel & Portugal Host Pedro.
Almost everyone in our group has traveled with Viking before. One key
instruction: we will provide saliva in a tube for COVID tests on the ship very
AM!
Dinner at the hotel restaurant with Jim & Susan, Our waiter seems new
and a bit addled. Gourmand Jim tackles octopus; I had a couple of people
suggest I should try grilled octopus in Portugal, but not tonight.
Thursday, April 7:
“Sights and Flavors”
Cloudy & cool (55) to start.
Breakfast buffet, highlighted (as everywhere here) by tarts & other
pastries; or order from selections like pancakes, eggs Benedict, “egg of the
day” (e.g., frittata). Let the overeating begin!
After breakfast, included
“
Cosmopolitan Lisbon” tour.
The guide relates local history & culture as we drive around. The 1755
earthquake (including tsunamis & fires) on “All Saints Day” devastated the
city. The city history goes back to the Romans & Moors. Interesting & colorful
buildings, distinctive azulejo tilework, as well as more recent urban
art (e.g., a raccoon) made from trash.
Views of one of the trams, Praca dos
Restauradores obelisk, and
Ponte
25 de Abril suspension bridge,
commemorating the revolution overthrowing the Salazar regime; it resembles the
Golden Gate Bridge built by the same company. The Cristo Rei (Christ the King)
statue on the other side of the river inspired by Cristo Redento (Christ the
Redeemer) statue in Rio de Janeiro.
The Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries),
built in 1940 for the Portuguese World Expo, commemorates Portuguese explorers
of the 15
th & 16
th C. A stop at Torre de Belém, a
World Heritage Site completed in 1514 to protect the city; an example of
Manueline architecture with Arabic-inspired watch towers, ornate battlements.
Many women hawking jewelry.
Driving further past a Center for
the Unknown that focuses on cancer research. Descriptions of jakaranda trees
with purple blooms & omnipresent custard tarts.
Following the guide’s
“lollipop” sign as the sky brightens to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a World
Heritage Site monastery of lavish Manueline style (Moorish & nautical elements with
arches and twisted cornices, facades, & vaults). Into the beautiful
church, then 2-level cloisters with intricate carvings on every surface. Marks
on stonework by masons to receive credit for payment. Lots of touring school
groups.
Young cadets rappelling in a square by a planetarium and the Museo da
Marinho (Maritime Museum). Thru a pretty residential area with a number of
embassies, then the “lungs of Lisbon,” a park 3 times the size of Central Park
in NYC. By an old aqueduct, a view from Parque Eduardo VII (near where we
stayed in 2005), around the circle with a Marquis da Pombal statue in the
center. To the hotel and nearby outdoor Banana Café for pastry.
After relaxing we’re off to optional
tour “Flavors of Lisbon” with guide Anna to sample
petiscos ˗ like Spanish tapas, small servings with chilled drinks & local liqueurs. Past
the Basilica to a more traditional housing area rated one of the best here, now
too expensive for average workers (350-380K euros for an apartment). To the
Mercado de Campo de Ourique. A pretty spot, displays include colorful canned fish that Anna says
are very tasty. To a garden area Anna calls “the heart & spirit of the
neighborhood” where “children play, grandparents play cards.” We learn Portugal
is #1 in Europe for wine consumption per capita, #2 to Italy for coffee.
1
st stop for beer &
pastries near distinctive black & white ducks with their own little house
by a pond.
2
nd stop has red & white wines, breads, cheese,
sliced sausages. We sit with 2 couples, 3 people from Hong Kong & 1 from
Scotland.
Past interesting shops & windows, more tiles. 3
rd stop
for coffee & pastries: “sweets to your heart, not your stomach” says Anna.
To
the hotel where we join Susan & Jim on the 9
th
floor terrace for wine & conversation, plus fabulous views over the city to
the river.
Friday, April 8:
“Tarts and Visions”
Up early, luggage ready, breakfast,
on the coach to drive to Fatima (150 km) then 150 km to Porto. Marjorie
declares custard tarts “the treat of the trip” (like scones in Ireland). Cloudy
like yesterday & 16ºC (61F) up to 21/70 later, some breaks of sun. Guide
Monica tells about the Era of Discovery, other history & culture, says Portugal
the 4th safest country in the world.
Two optional tours along the way. 1st
Batalha, home to Santa Maria da Vitoria Monastery, a World Heritage Site. Built
to thank Virgin Mary for victory over Spain in the battle of Aljubarrota. The complex
constructed over the reign of 7 kings 1386 to 1517. Exterior sculptures of
saints & other important characters, amazing carved details in archways.
Interior
has beautiful stained glass windows. Changing of the guard at tomb of the
unknown soldier. Archways lead to chapels left unfinished when masons went to
work on Lisbon’s Mosteiro de Jerónimos.
The Royal Cloister displays Manueline style in
nautical carvings. Elegant tombs include one with carved figures of King João &
wife with hands held, near the tomb of famous son Henry the
Navigator. An intimidating figure with black hood (an Inquisitor?) turns out to
be an actor leading a school group; another less scary figure in period finery.
Way more than expected here – a common reaction thruout the trip.
Thru a roundabout (which are
everywhere here) with statue of St. Anthony (“Anthony, Anthony, please come
around, something is missing and can’t be found,” a prayer goes) in the center.
On to Fatima, named
for a Moorish girl who legend says converted to Catholicism in the 1100s. Three
shepherd children had visions in 1917 of Mary revealing 3 secrets considered
prophesies of such events as WWII, the
rise & fall of communism, and the assassination attempt on Pope John Paul II in 1981. The tiny original Chapel of Apparitions, on
the site of the visions, Mary’s crown adorned with the bullet used
in the assassination attempt; he attributed survival to Our Lady of Fátima. The Chapel is housed within a larger structure
where a Mass is starting. This is in a main square larger than St.
Peter’s in the Vatican. Ornate limestone Basilica at one end
houses tombs of the 3 shepherd children (2 died in post-WWI flu
epidemic, the 3rd became a nun until her death at 97). A painting
above the altar shows Our Lady passing on her messages.
A modern Basilica at
the other end of the square, added to handle up to 8,000. Nearby statues of
Popes Paul VI & John Paul II, and striking modernistic tall crucifix. 4
million pilgrims visit the shrine annually, some today going down the middle of
the square on their knees. (We learn waiter Ivo has done Fatima on his knees 5
times, his grandmother some 30 times!) Pretty garden areas along the side,
eucalyptus & cork trees (we see our 1st example of how cork is
stripped from the tree).
Many places to buy religious souvenirs, or the iconic
Portuguese rooster symbol. A short walk to Hotel Santa Maria for a good lunch.
More views along the road: villages,
fields & small garden plots, forested areas. Some sprinkles turn to light
rain then steadier with fog. Slowed by a couple of accidents along an
expressway. We reach the ship at 5:30 at Vila Nova de Gaia dock opposite
Porto, crew lining the way
with umbrellas for us to board. Double-docked, so we walk thru another ship. We
meet our steward Tatyana from Bulgaria, then a safety drill to try on our life
preservers. Another safety measure: tho masks not required on the ship, they
are on buses and in buildings.
Our ship, Viking Torgil, named for a
Danish king’s son who conquered Dublin, has 53 outside staterooms; our tour has 83
passengers of the 106 capacity. The ship is smaller than the rest of the fleet
because the Douro is narrower & shallower than rivers like the Rhine &
Danube. Ships not allowed to sail at night, making for wonderful daytime
sailing instead of changing ports at night. Our usual “Standard” stateroom with
half-windows at river level; Jim & Susan in a “Veranda” with small balcony. The usual furnishings,
including 40" flat-screen TV with movies, news, & music collections. 2 outdoor areas: Sun
Deck with swimming pool (never used); Aquavit Terrace at the bow. The
Restaurant & Bar/Lounge have floor-to-ceiling glass for panoramic views. “Viking Daily” delivered each day with
schedules; info about the ship & crew, Portuguese history & culture,
and places we visit; and “Nautical term of the day” (e.g., crow’s nest, booby
hatch).
The 1st daily Port Talk by
Raquel, laying out plans for the next day and other info. She introduces department
heads, originating from Portugal, Brazil, Germany, Hungary, etc. The chef
describes cuisine for each dinner; each has a Regional Tasting Menu, other
choices that vary daily, and always-available “classics” (e.g., steak &
chicken). Wine included & plentiful at dinner & lunch. We settle in
with Susan & Jim in what becomes “our table,” with friendly waiter Ivo; the
chef stops by for a chat. Pretty lights along the river and nearby 19th
C 2-tiered Ponte de Dom Luis I, the
world’s longest bridge of its type designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel, a
symbol of Porto. [Coincidentally, a photo of Porto as the “City of Bridges”
showed up once on our login screen at home.].
Saturday, April 9:
“Locks and Vineyards”
I’m up early as usual. Up top,
greeted by always friendly crew. Very atmospheric foggy views: old colorful
buildings up the bank across from us, traditional boats along the shore,
several bridges. I check e-mail on one of the 2 available computers. Then
breakfast: a very complete buffet (cereal, fruit, cheese, eggs, pastries – many
pastries!, and more) plus options made to order (e.g., French toast, pancakes).
The
cruisin’ begins! Rio Douro (River of Gold), another World Heritage Site, flows 897 km from Duruelo de la Sierra
in Spain to Porto; 112 km form part of the Spain/Portugal border. It passes thru the world’s 1st protected wine region (1756)
as Douro Internacional Park. A lovely AM,
becoming partly sunny then sunnier & sunnier, up to 72º. Gorgeous sailing:
lush greenery, crew teams, pretty clusters of houses, terraced vineyards, quintas
(wine estates) id’ed by signs on the hills. Some vines starting to bud, others
not yet. It seems the prettiest stretch of river ever!, tho rivaled later.
Our
1st lock (of 5), a very tight fit; the next brings “Oohs” &
“Ahhs”: Carrapatelo is the biggest lock (35m) in Europe. Visiting “Cork Lady”
gives demo on cork production & uses – handbags & shoes to cork
underwear! Lunch (with varying daily menus and “classics” like hot dogs & hamburgers)
as we navigate thru a very narrow stretch close to dramatic granite boulders.
We’re given “voice boxes” for included “Mateus
Palace and Gardens” tour with guide Claudia & Raquel on an absolutely
gorgeous afternoon. Narration on the 30-minute drive on history & culture,
and the valley’s wine industry. Claudia bursts into song: “I got juiced on
Mateus, just hang loose.” The baroque Palace (depicted on Mateus Rosé wine
labels, tho wine not made here), built in the 18th C, set in
beautiful formal gardens with blooming red & white camelias, cedar-lined
walkways, sculpted hedges & statuary, lovely ponds. Interior includes a grand
stairway, intricately
carved wood ceilings, furniture from several periods, 17th & 18th
C paintings, ceramics, and library with an edition of epic poem Os Lusíadas, Portugal’s counterpart to Shakespeare or Homer. A religious museum
has beautiful vestments. The family, which recently experienced the death of
its patriarch, still lives here beyond where the tour ends.
We continue to Sandaman Quinta do Seixo.
The guide seems a bit scary in black cape & hat to match the label’s
persona. A mountainous area, spectacular views down to the river, vineyards
spilling down. Red & white wine tasting. The EU dictates only wines made in
this region can be called port; US doesn’t follow this. “Mister Sandman” plays
on the bus as we drive down a winding narrow road. More views from bridges
crossing the river. Back thru a lock to see contrasting up & downstream
views. To our ship now docked at Pinhão, past old train station with pretty
tiles. After dinner we finish the day up top with Jim & Susan. A fabulous
day!
Sunday, April 10:
“Olives and Almonds”
Stiff legs – lots of hills &
stairs yesterday. We’re both up at sunrise as the ship sets sail on a beautiful clear cool
AM. Rugged hills, jagged granite outcroppings, some very narrow passages,
terraced vineyards spilling down. Vineyards can be horizontal or vertical (no
longer allowed) on the hills. Thru a lock, fisherman on the shore; how did he
get down, how will he get back up? We’re invited to an Explorer
Society cocktail party for past Viking guests. Chef Maik gives demo on making pastel de nata, humorous
help from 2 passengers. A brief stop at Pocinho to let some off for optional
excursions. We stay on and I experience an alternate universe: another guest
named Russell . . . brother named Douglas, just like my bro! We also enjoy
time with other passengers. Some find things to complain about, but
counterbalanced by others: e.g., a young woman with cerebral palsy happily
traveling with her mother; a recently-widowed 80-year-old woman with terminal
bone cancer always wearing her happy butterfly hat.
A low bridge, everything on the Sun Deck
flattened to pass under. I go crazy with a banana split at lunch! We dock mid-PM
at Barca d’Alva, near the Spanish border, the last Portuguese town on the river.
Cherry, almond, and olive groves and terraced vineyards line the banks. Another
gorgeous afternoon, warmer (almost 80º), very windy.
Onto the bus for included tour of
hilltop Castelo Rodrigo with guide Claudia again. She leads us in “Happy
Birthday” (27th) for driver Pedro. More arid countryside. Claudia
tells about olive production & use. A winding road up & up, panoramic
views, to the town. This tiny town (60 residents) at 2200’, one
of Portugal’s 12 “Historic Villages,” looks down on a plateau stretching east to
Spain and north to the Douro valley. On a route by pilgrims to Santiago de
Compostela, including, legend says, St. Francis of Assisi. The town is named for its castle, a National
Monument. We’re handed tasty almond samples and walk among 16th C houses,
plenty more hills & steps. A very ecumenical community. Visits to church
& synagogue. “House 32” has displays of many religions. Sinagoga Street is
a memento to the Jewish community established by refugees from the Spanish
Inquisition. Claudia tells of Portugal’s “Schindler” who saved many Jews during
WWII. She also tells of a “celebrity stork” with damaged wing taken in as a
town pet; the story went “viral” internationally. We sample almond & cherry
liqueurs.
A panoramic viewpoint stop in Parque
Naturale do Douro Internacional, our ship in the river far below. Lots of white
flowers along the road. Across the river into España. We hear many jokes about
how Portugal is better than Spain. “Taste of Portugal” tonight, food &
music, the crew in traditional garb. An Aquavit toast. Another Fabulous Photo
Frenzy day!
Monday, April 11:
“Salamanca & Storks”
A cloudy cool (50s) start, rain
forecast (Raquel: “liquid sunshine”). “Vamoosh” to our driver to depart for
included “Day in Salamanca.” We’ve enjoyed 2 previous trips in Spain (Barcelona
2010, Andalucia 2015) and look forward to seeing a different region.
A winding road up into the hills, flattening out to fields, sheep & cattle,
many stone walls. The area is also known for storks & black pigs. We pass a
line of storks on their nests. A rooster crows on
the bus to announce a comfort stop, complete with butcher shop.
Salamanca, a World Heritage city 2 hours
from Madrid, is known as La Dorada
(“The Golden City”) due to the glow of its sandstone structures. Founded by a
Celtic tribe, conquered by Hannibal, later controlled by Romans, whose walls
still stand. Puente Romano de Salamanca, an elegant bridge with 15 granite
arches, spans the Tormes River. First stop for tapas & wine with music and
a couple dancing in a pretty courtyard.
To Plaza Mayor, considered one of the
most beautiful plazas in Spain. Beautiful facades & windows. Past buildings of Salamanca
University, one of the oldest in Europe, since the 13th C hosting
such as Miguel de
Cervantes and Christopher Columbus. We’re told frogs are a symbol of
good luck here. Writing on walls used to be in bull’s blood, now faded.
Stork on a nest visible atop a church bell tower.
Into the New Cathedral, built in stages 1513-1733. The facade has 2 mysterious carvings:
the “Salamanca Astronaut” and an ice-cream eating gargoyle (tho I can’t make
them out). Inside are beautiful “processional altars” that would have been
carried thru streets on Palm Sunday. Out thru the attached Old Cathedral,
dating from the 12th C.
Into nearby Art Nouveau Museum. Fabulous
stained glass windows, interesting other exhibits, many miniatures (including
cats playing pool). But no photos! Tho I can take some in the coffee shop &
gift shop, will do internet search back home. We join Jim & Susan for
refreshments on a busy street, then a group “coffee break” (plus munchies) at a
hotel. Rain starts as we walk to the bus, continues for the 2-hour drive to the
ship. Guide Maria tells jokes about whether computers are male
or female; e.g., male: as soon as you commit to one you realize if you had
waited you could have found a better one; female: even your smallest mistakes
are stored in long-term memory for later retrieval.
Docking
at Barca d’Alva near an
impressive bridge, many bird nests (swallows?), dramatically lit at night. 2
other ships docked here. Up in town is an underpass with pretty murals. I try
grilled octopus at dinner, make it halfway thru. Q & A after dinner with
the captain; he shows an interesting video of the river before locks, quite
unnavigable.
Another fabulous day! Contrary to the
forecast, gorgeous sun when touring; it rained all day at the ship and
temp down to 50º, tho there’s a pretty evening. And Marjorie has good news. She
sold a painting. And is especially pleased to learn an annual award at the
local Relay for Life has been named the “Marjorie Ward Spirit of Relay,”
honoring her efforts for many years.
Tuesday, April 12:
“Oh My God!”
So what’s been happening in the
world? Ketanji Brown Jackson confirmed as the 1st Black woman on the
Supreme Court. Scottie Scheffler continues his meteoric rise by winning the
Masters; Tiger Woods returns from car crash injuries, makes the cut but has his
worst score (78) at the Masters. Baseball season has started after delay for
owner/player contract negotiations. A “historic April blizzard” hitting the
Northern plains. A survey names Weather Channel “most trusted news source” (tho
less for Republicans, who seem to have trust issues). Horrific things still
happening in Ukraine.
Rain forecast again as we cast off.
More beautiful cruising, cool (52º), a pretty mix of sun & clouds. Off to included “Faraios Bakery and Lunch at Quinta Avessado.” Villages & terraced vineyards perched in the hills,
panoramic views with dramatic lighting. Narration about investment here in
green energy.
We’re in the Moscatel wine region. Local
guide tells us Faraios, with some 1,000 residents, has a cooperative that produces
35+ million bottles per year (but those are small bottles!). He gives history &
details of production, followed (of course!) by tasting. 
A walk to the bakery on pretty streets, past tiny
shops and “town dogs” owned by no one and cared for by all. We visit one of 8
bakeries for bread only made here. A delightful woman greets us as she takes
fresh bread from a large oven. We enjoy the bread with cheese & jam and
more Moscatel. Raquel is smitten with a cute kitten – could be a ship’s mascot?
To a bread & wine museum (Pao e Vino), with panoramic view from a balcony.
A few sprinkles & cool (54º), but then back to nice sun.
A winding road thru the middle of
vineyards to Quinta da Avessado (another World Heritage Site!) for lunch. As
our bus arrives we’re greeted by applauding staff & accordion music.
Beautiful panoramic views.
A plentiful lunch: soup, sausages, cod cakes, beef
stew, chocolate cake, crème brulee, and more! We pass on grappa. The owner,
described as “the Portuguese Mr. Bean,” gives very animated descriptions of
each course punctuated by “Oh my God!” exclamation. Each table serenaded by
accordion, drum, & tambourine. The owner comes on the bus to say goodbye,
music and staff waving as we leave.
Light rain during lunch, but another
mostly gorgeous day. superb blue sky & lovely clouds, mid-60s. Anther
pretty ride back to the ship, now at Folgosa, after a traffic jam in a narrow
village street. We set sail downstream now to Régua. At Port Talk Raquel
announces: no more saliva tests! Applause & cheering. After dinner the crew
brings a cake to our table and serenades our 50th anniversary (both
us and Susan & Jim).
Wednesday, April 13: “686 Steps!”
A nice AM, sun/clouds mix. I explore
town. Lots of tiles on buildings & a church, pretty store windows,
plantings along the dock.
A short drive thru the always spectacular scenery,
flowering trees, orange trees, lush vegetation, to included
tour “Charming Lamego.” The town is known for Nossa Senhora dos Remédios (Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies),
dating to the 14th C and still used by pilgrims. A hilltop chapel stands above town,
reached via 686 steps (as at Fatima, pilgrims often climb on their knees, as
some do today) up a double staircase decorated with azulejo tiles & urns on 9 terraces. Panoramic views of the town
& surrounding area.
Down to the town, a pretty pedestrian area & shops.
Into the cathedral, built in the 12th C by Portugal’s 1st
king.
Back to the ship for lunch &
cruising on another beautiful afternoon. More lush vegetation, flowering trees,
vineyards, granite boulders, kayakers. A bridge with angel statue commemorates deaths from an old
bridge collapse.
Afternoon tea with tasty pastries. Zany Bar Chef Dany gives a
demo on opening a wine bottle thermally. Dock at Porto again on a clear cool
evening. Up top after dinner chatting with Jim & Susan, pretty lights along
the river. We’re intrigued by a robot waiter delivering meals in a restaurant
we can see into near the dock.
Thursday, April 14:
Porto
A very foggy start, clears to sunny
by mid-AM. Along the shore are small barcos
rabelos, boats once used to transport casks of wine. Off for included “Leisurely Porto”
with guide Joanna. Portugal’s 2nd-largest city, it lends its name to
the region’s port wine. A rivalry with Lisbon::
“Lisbon shows off, Porto works.” Nicknamed “the Granite City” for the granite
that protected the city from the 1755 earthquake.
Joanna discusses (like some other guides) some positives &
negatives of dictator Salazar’s regime (1932-1968); e,g., enhanced
infrastructure, but destruction of important cultural sites to “restore” to original
states. Into the Cathedral, Igreja de São
Francisco. A choir sings as priests arrive for
Mass.
Down to main square Praça da Ribeirais and the nearby train
station. Another more than expected Wow! Beautiful tile murals depict
Portuguese & Porto history.
We drive past a battle monument, the National
Theater, City Hall, modernistic Casa de Musica,
thru a tunnel out of the city to the mouth of the river & coast. A
beautiful area: lovely trees on a seafront promenade, rocks & surf , modernistic “Anemone” sculpture in a roundabout. Forte de São Francisco do Queijo, aka the “Castle of Cheese,” overlooks
the area. Back along the river for ship’s lunch, many colorful tour boats
passing by.
Next to optional tour “Quinta de Aveleda” with
guide Sarah. Hazy
sun and 70º. Past a 60,000 seat soccer stadium. The estate, owned by the now 5th-generation
Guedes, is the biggest producer of vino verde, which refers to young
wine and the “green” region (not green grapes; it can be white, red, or rosé). Surrounded
by a magnificent 25-acre garden: camelias & azaleas in full bloom, huge
redwoods & eucalyptus trees, peacocks wandering around. Another Wow! and
Photo Frenzy! A pretty tea house, chapel, main house built in 1671.
Local guide
Christina gives info on wine production, then a tutorial (complete with slides)
on wine tasting: the key elements of sight, smell, and taste. We sample 3 wines
with cheese. A peacock goes into full display as we leave.
Driving back to the ship we learn driver
Antonio and others did a nonstop roundtrip to Ukraine to deliver supplies and
bring back 250 women & children (plus 5 cats & 2 dogs). He gets a
well-deserved round of applause. Back for dinner, Ivo spills a water glass on
me; thankfully, it wasn’t wine he wasted. Up top for more views.
Friday, April 15:
“Good Jesus”
A clear sunny AM for Good Friday. A
seagull seems to be pondering using our swimming pool. Shells rowing &
gulls drifting along. The river cruise ends today but we added an extension to
Santiago de Compostela with our voucher money to decompress. Our friend Francisco
has spoken glowingly about the city. His father born nearby in A Guarda on the
coast. Santiago de Compostela is one of the most famous Christian
pilgrimage sites. Following Raquel’s disembarkation instructions, luggage
outside our stateroom, breakfast, wait in the Lounge to board the bus and meet
Ricardo, Program Director for this part of the trip. Past an industrial area
and large shopping mall. An architect, Ricardo points out a university
engineering school, discusses industrial textile production in the area.
An
hour to included tour “Panoramic Braga.” The
3rd-largest city in Portugal, Braga includes the World Heritage Bom
Jesus do Monte shrine, a large complex: elaborate 17-flight zig-zag stairway
(“only” some 600 steps here), interrupted by small chapels, gardens, sculptures
& fountains, depicting the ascent to heaven. It leads to a church &
chapels, statues & gardens, orange trees, hotels. Those who don’t wish to
tackle the steep pilgrimage hike can use the world’s oldest water-powered
funicular. We drive up. Time to explore the church, panoramic views over Braga.
Another Wow! Many buses & cars now as we leave; we beat the crowds, but
it’s difficult maneuvering the bus down the narrow winding road to town.
Along a pretty street to the
Cathedral, the oldest in Portugal, founded 1070 on the site of a Roman temple.
Impressive exterior ornamentation by the architect of Lisbon’s Jerónimos
Monastery. Guide says a gargoyle covering its face “is sad because he’s looking
toward Spain.” Capela dos Reis (King’s Chapel) houses the tombs of Henry of
Burgundy & wife Teresa, the cathedral’s founders and parents of Afonso
Henriques, founder of the kingdom.
A light lunch outside by colorful gardens at
Lucitana Café.
On the road, green countryside &
hills, a fortress town, past an Eiffel bridge right before crossing the border
into the Galicia region of Spain. Ricardo narrates with history of Galicia
& Spain. Past Vigo Bay, Ricardo points out shellfish farms. A comfort stop,
then to modernistic hotel NH Collection Santiago de
Compostela. A nice location, opposite a park with pond full of ducks,
University buildings, and concert hall/opera house. After squeezing into our
ship’s stateroom, our room seems immense, an especially large bathroom. And
such wide hallways!Pilgrimages here derive from discovery of
an urn in 813 believed to have remains of St. James, a disciple beheaded in
Jerusalem. A temple was erected, but in the 16th C the remains were
hidden for fear they might be destroyed in raids by Sir Francis Drake. In 1879
a workman found them, as verified by a sliver of St. James’ skull brought from
Italy. It is considered the 3rd most holy Christian city (after Rome
& Jerusalem). It’s the rainiest city in Spain, but we have lovely weather
(today warmed up from 57º to 77º).
Ricardo takes us all on a walk into the city. Past St. Francis
Monastery, originally established by St. Francis of Assissi. To Plaza
del Obradoiro and the Catedralicio de Santiago de Compostela (another
World Heritage site), begun
in the 11th C. Lots of young people in hiking outfits – pilgrims?
Along atmospheric narrow streets, interesting shops. Joined by Denise &
Randy. They own a camping/RV resort near Worcester MA. Wine at Catalay Café, then a friendly waiter at next-door San
Clemente gets us an outside table (after shooing away a family trying to jump
in off the street). Good food, very reasonable prices. Partying is just getting
started at 10:30, a costumed musical group at one corner. A full moon, 4 ducks
escort us near the hotel.
Saturday, April 16:
“Pilgrims and Relics”
Viking arranges complimentary COVID
tests at 8am for our trip home. Cool (48º) & sunny. Buffet breakfast at the
hotel, more pastries! I visit the pond for more photos of the colorful ducks;
they have their own duck crossing sign.
Off with guide Christina for included
walking tour, first retracing yesterday’s walk past St. Francis and the
Archbishop’s Palacio de Gelmírez
built in the 12th C, to the Cathedral. City Hall is opposite topped
by a statue of St. James as “Moor slayer;” legend has it his miraculous figure
appeared to help Christians defeat the Moors at the (apparently mythical)
Battle of Clavijo.
On one side is the Hostel de los Reyes Católicos, now a
parador
that offers free meals to 10 pilgrims daily (Christina says we don’t qualify).
The scallop shell is the symbol of pilgrims. The Way of St. James pilgrimage
route to Santiago was awarded a Peace Prize in 2004.
Into the Cathedral Museum. Beautiful
rooms with ornate ceilings, tapestries, pieces from the old Cathedral façade, a
chair made for Pope John Paul II. But no interior photos allowed!; I’ll search the
internet at home. The Museum Library contains illustrated Codex Calixtinus
volumes from 1122. The Cloister includes tombs of resident priests. The 15th
C Chapel of the Relics has 74 relics from saints, including a piece of St.
James’ skull!
Christina describes various aspects of the Cathedral before we
explore the interior. Too much to process! But a few highlights: The Pórtico de la Gloria, carved in 1188,
has 3 arches with biblical figures from the Last Judgment. The Cathedral has 3
naves in cruciform shape and several chapels & cloisters. The 800-pipe
organ is adorned with many cherubs. In the crypt, a silver urn contains what
are believed the remains of St. James.
Marjorie & Susan stay for a service,
followed by shopping and lunch in the Hostel. The rest of us continue to the
Mercado de Abastos, at this location for 300 years. The current building,
dating to 1941, was designed to match the city’s architecture and the
appearance of a church with stone walls and long arches & windows.
Permanent stalls within arches face long central aisles of cheese, cured meat,
and fish & seafood. Temporary stalls outside sell flowers, fruits & vegetables.
Sorry Marjorie missed this.
Sunday, April 17:
“Uso de Mascarillo Obligatorio”
Happy Easter! Luggage out at 6am, a
bag brunch from the hotel, on the bus at 6:20 with driver Javier. Thru many
roundabouts, past Vigo Bay to the airport at 7:30. Sun rising behind mountains,
met by a Viking rep. Reminders to wear masks: Uso de Mascarillo Obligatorio.
Easy check-in & security. Views of extensive wind farms after
takeoff. Early to Madrid, but an hour to get to our next gate: a long hike
& tram, long passport line, another long hike. On the plane we switch seats
to allow a family with 2 kids to sit together. A “Thank you!” using their phone
translator; the father lets Marjorie try it out.
Departure a little late,
Madrid skyline in the distance. Almost on time to JFK at 3pm, views of Long
Island coming in; what seem like cargo ships waiting outside the harbor. Sunny
and 50s. A chatty friendly passport agent, luggage arrives, a short wait for a
ride to the carpark. One the road home calls to the Queens family, dinner at
our favorite New Paltz diner.
After the height of Spring in Portugal
we’re looking forward to more Spring, but first . . . a couple inches of snow
Monday night (9-10” in some area). More pleasant surprises: The neighbor behind
us put up new fencing, covering most of what we planned to do after deer have
found Marjorie’s garden and destroyed recently planted shrubbery. Wednesday our 2020 federal tax refund arrives! Our
long IRS nightmare is finally over. Plus they added substantial interest – one
of our best investments, as it turns out.
What
a fabulous trip! Longer than most of our travels, I took 1500 photos, probably
a record for me (a pent-up shutter finger after limited travel for 2 years),
tho after deletions “only” about 1000 came home. Everything went so well. After
a somewhat iffy start the weather was excellent; some days warmer than
expected, could have used some short sleeves but packing otherwise on the mark.
Wonderful sights: cities, cathedrals & shrines, wine estates. It was so nice to have extended time with Susan & Jim. Everything
seemed more than expected, especially the long scenic river cruising. Excellent
plentiful food (have I mentioned the Portuguese pastries?) and wine.
Uma Boa
Viagem!
An uncrowded flight, maybe 1/3 full.
An hour late to Madrid-Barajas airport at 7:30am, still almost a 4-hour
layover. Signs to observe etiqueta respiratoria with masks & social
distancing. Thru customs & security, they check our PLFs & COVID tests,
confiscate a small corkscrew. The
architecture here reminds us of Gaudi designs in Barcelona; plus, of course,
Starbucks & McDonald’s. 
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