Snowbirding in Florida 2022

 

Snowbirding in Florida

February 2022

             The COVID-19 pandemic has created uncertainty, disarray, even chaos in travel plans the last 2 years. We’ve managed an occasional trip, but mostly stayed pretty local within NY & New England. The end of 2021 many flights had to be cancelled due to COVID-related staff shortages. But a chance to spend some winter time with Marjorie’s cousin Jim & wife Susan in their Naples FL condo, and to be joined by Marjorie’s sister Mary & hubbie Jeff, is too enticing. And then another invite to visit friends Deb (one of Marjorie’s fellow artists) & hubbie Chris in Palmetto, north of Sarasota, sweetens the pot. The latest COVID surge from variant Omicron appears to be waning, opening things up more. Though I know a number of golfers down

there, this will not be a golfing trip, just time to relax after a long 2 years of life in a pandemic. But there are risks: Reports a week before we leave of iguanas climbing trees in a cold snap, becoming dormant, then falling to the ground (“reptile dysfunction” says a radio DJ); so watch out for falling iguanas! And a “deep freeze” threatens the orange crop, a reminder of “polar vortexes” we encountered in a 2014 Florida trip. But a Facebook post by Florida friend Rob augers for warmer temps on the way.

We’ve been to Florida a number of times, including the aforementioned Golf Coast from Sarasota to Fort Myers. Matt, Anthea, and grandsons William & Miles stayed in Jim & Susan’s condo after Christmas, managing to get there despite 1000s of flight cancellations worldwide due to COVID-related staffing shortages. Jim & Susan were sorry not to be there, but Anthea nonetheless exclaimed “I think I’m in heaven!” We’ll take that as a favorable review. Matt passes along some suggestions, including good spots to stop along the Tamaimi Trail (which runs from Tampa to Miami) thru the Everglades.

            Punxsutawney Phil has seen his shadow- 6 more weeks of winter? But a competing view: Staten Island Chuck predicts an early spring. Another post by Rob also offers a more optimistic view. But we’re hit with a winter storm Thursday night thru most of Friday. The early predictions of 6-12” are overstated, 2-4” instead, and our snowplow guy says he’ll get us out to the airport very early Saturday AM (2/5). So things seem good. Until a message from United: our Albany flight delayed 2 hours due to some crew issues, which would make a very short & unreliable layover in Chicago. United gives a link to explore other options, delaying to Sunday seems best. 

Saturday is a beautiful winter day, glistening white snow, but we’d rather have warmer beach sand. I use the “extra” day putting together tax info in my “Fortress of Solitude” SUNY office (yes, still have an office!).

 

February 6: “Mobbed in Albany”

Our original flights were circuitous thru Chicago; now thru Newark (“Economy Plus” seats help my back still recovering from surgery). We use United credit card miles accumulated during the pandemic for our flights. Still a very early flight Sunday at 6am. We have proof of vaccination & masks. Up a little after 3 to get to the airport for our 6am flight. Should be plenty of time? Long-term parking is only

outside (!) so a trek into the terminal. Wow! It’s mobbed! Must be leftovers from flight problems Thursday & Friday. Long serpentine lines for check-in & security. We get to our gate as boarding is going on. Whew! On-time departure, only 28 minutes to Newark. Pretty sunrise silhouettes NYC skyline. 

An almost 4-hour layover in Newark, United Lounge passes via our credit card make it comfortable. Thru the usual airport "shopping mall" to comfy chairs & breakfast buffet: egg & sausage sandwiches, bagels & pastries ("Carb City," Marjorie notes), fruit & yogurt, coffee & juices. Overlooking a colorful light sculpture & food court below. A long hike to our gate (with a stop for skyline photo op), again arriving just as boarding is going on.

Another on-time departure at 11. Our "Economy Plus" seats are in an exit row, we have to say we're willing & able to exercise this awesome responsibility if needed. Early to Sarasota about 2:00 Partly cloudy, 60s - feels great! After getting our checked bag we find Deb & Chris outside with the other "ubers."

          A drive to their home past Florida ambience: Mr. & Mrs. Crab restaurant, Buccaneer Pawn Shop, palm trees, Spanish moss hanging from trees. And a "Carl Reynolds Law Firm" billboard (matching the name of a friend since childhood & our best man who happens to be a lawyer (retired)). Across the Manatee River and into Cypress Pond Estates and to their house with pretty painted driveway. They've lived here (in winter) 2 years after several years renting.

The home is very nice, with interesting sculptures of local animals like manatees and some of Deb's artwork. 

         

         

Chris & I take a stroll around the neighborhood. Pretty homes, not "cookie cutter" at all: different pastel colors, layouts, and plantings. Tasty snacks followed by beef stroganoff dinner. 

We learn Mary & Jeff, driving from Kansas City to meet up with us in Sarasota, are headed to Atlanta to stay overnight with friend Bob, one of the "Still Crazy" golfers Jeff & I played with in Pinehurst last summer. We worked to travel light so all will fit into their car to drive on to Naples. Some time watching Olympic ski-jumping & skiing - a shocking fall in giant slalom by US star Mikaela Shiffrin - then off to bed.

 

February 7: “A Mob of Manatees”

         

          Olympic news: US Silver in team figure skating; they keep showing poor Mikaela's "stunner." And is Russian invasion of Ukraine imminent? I check e-mail & Facebook, plus e-edition of the Times Union; Facebook post of a clever sign: Dire Straits Restaurant: Money for Muffins, Chips For Free. Chris & I stroll again, pretty flowers & Spanish moss. Deb makes yummy breakfast of French toast & eggs. Early clouds break up to nice sun, 60s. 

         

Then off via Moccasin Wallow Road and other highways to Apollo Beach where warm water from a power plant attracts manatees. And Wow! There must be 100s of them, Chris says they've never seen so many. Nursery schoolers on an outing are excited. 

There's lots here: narration & info signs, manatee sculptures, butterfly habitat, museum exhibits. 

A boardwalk goes thru a mangrove forest with elaborate root systems on a coastal berm out onto the river, clams & barnacles encrusted below. A sting ray pool - but don't touch!

Now the sun has given way to clouds, a bit chilly with a breeze. Heading back down past Manatee Memorial Hospital & Manatee Correctional Institution, leading to jokes about programs for ill or criminal manatees. Colony Cove, largest trailer park in the US. Lots of sunshine now.

         

          

Onto Anna Maria Island ("AMI") and along a pretty causeway, past a retro painted paddleboard bus. A stop into Ginny and Jane E's store, too many colorful things to process! A parking spot by City Pier extending out into beautiful water, tall Skyway Bridge in the distance, pretty sand along the shore, palm trees, little shops & restaurants, a colorful shuttle bus. This is so Florida!! I find a colorful t-shirt; "there, you've finished your shopping," Marjorie says, then finds one of her own. A nice lunch at The Waterfront Restaurant. 

 

 

Very sunny now. A pretty drive down to Coquina Beach, then walking along the sand, picking up shells, seagulls & little birds skittering along. Continuing our drive, past a brightly decorated Moose Lodge to Longboat Key with big fancy houses.

Back home. Mary & Jeff call from the Marriott, using their points for lodging. Too tired from their long drive to join us for dinner, we'll rendezvous tomorrow at breakfast. A good dinner at Riviera Dunes Dockside, with nighttime marina view. Back home to see "nocturnal" geckos in the

front door alcove. Yummy Blue Bunny ice cream to top off a fabulous day!

 

February 8: “Ringling Redux”

"China freaks out” as Eileen Gu, US-born but competing for China, wins gold in women's freestyle "big air" skiing. After some GPS confusion Mary & Jeff join us for another excellent Deb Breakfast. A cloudy day with light rain, mid-50s. But doesn't dampen our enthusiasm to visit the John & Mabel Ringling estate & museums, designated the official State Art Museum of Florida and on the National Register of Historic Places. I've prepped by watching "Dumbo" at home before we left

         

          Into Sarasota and a longish line to enter, passing a masked sculpture. Sign says masks "expected" (not required), people split about 50/50. We use our "reciprocal" pass from Albany's Irish Heritage Museum to pay for all except the house. One disappointment: the miniature circus not open. But plenty else to see. Mary has a Zoom meeting of her U Wisconsin 50th Reunion Committee, and we lose track of Jeff. 

First into the Historic Galleries: posters, colorful circus wagons, luxurious private rail car used by John & Mabel. Photographs with bios of "freak" characters: Wild Indian Chief with Wife & Child, Swiss Giantess, Living Skeleton, and others.

          Across thru impressive banyan trees to the Museum of Art, opened early 1930s. Two long wings of beautiful rooms & galleries holding European paintings & decorative arts from Middle Ages to 19th C, then contemporary art from Europe & America, plus a growing collection of Asian Art. 

Wrapped around a large courtyard filled with flowers & sculptures. 

          Thru the Rose Garden, some in bloom, to the Ringlings' winter residence, Ca' d'Zan, built 1924-26 inspired by Venetian palazzi; major restoration 1996-2002. "As opulent inside as it is outside," with 56 rooms, tho only the 1st floor open to tour. Light lunch at the Grillroom, then to the Glass Pavilion, Marjorie's favorite. It's our 2nd time here (from 2014) but still very interesting. Wonderful exhibits, beautiful grounds, and even some wildlife photo ops: pelican & heron.

Heading back home lots of traffic leading to the bridge, but time to relax before dinner again at Dockside, followed by more Blue Bunny dessert. Some Olympics on TV, Mikaela has anther DNF in slalom!

 

February 9: “From Farm Market to Meeting Poppy”

As usual in our travels, I'm up early and join with Chris to watch energetic local coverage of news & ads: a conservative group wants to remove 16 books from local libraries for "inappropriate content;" a new "Iron Gwazi" rollercoaster at Busch Gardens has a 91º drop; Mad Dog Armory for your gun needs. COVID cases down sharply from a few weeks ago, NY & other states starting to reduce mask mandates. Olympic news: Lindsey Jacobellis wins the 1st US gold, in snowboard cross. Chilly 40s but sunny and headed to high 60s. 

A stroll around the neighborhood waiting for Mary & Jeff, then on the road with a nearby stop at Detwiler's Farm Market, named one of the top attractions by TripAdvisor. Onto I-75 for the 120 miles to Naples, past pretty vegetation along the highway.

          To Jim & Susan's at noon, greeted enthusiastically by Australian Labradoodle Poppy. A pretty development on a small lake, golf course nearby (and everywhere around here!). 

Beautiful grounds here and in a complex across the main road. I take a brief walk with Susan & Poppy, then lunch on the lanai overlooking the lake. 

The ladies head out to local shops. Marjorie's impressed with upscale resale shops where Susan found all the furnishings and accessories for their condo and has created a beautiful and inviting home. Marjorie and Anthea agree that Susan should have a new career "staging" properties for real estate firms. After a good dinner some Olympic watching. US golds for Chloe Kim in half-pipe and Nathan Chen in figure skating.

 

February 10: ♫If the skeeters don’t get you then the gators will♫

          Today we follow Matt's suggestions into the Everglades. I'm out for a walk at sunrise, a beautiful AM if a bit chilly (high 40s, but headed to 75). 

Pretty views around the lake, lots of bird photo ops: a lineup of white egrets, mockingbirds (the Florida State Bird), pelicans; other birds seen during our visit include herons, coots, cormorants, and vultures.

          After breakfast Jim chauffeurs us in their 6-passenger van. Along Tamiami Hwy (Rt. 41) past pretty Everglades terrain, several airboat tours, birds & gators along the road (so I'm told, couldn't see any gators myself). Into Big Cypress Nat'l Preserve, 729K acres created in 1974 to protect freshwater flow into the Everglades. A diverse coalition of conservationists, hunters, landowners, and Native peoples combined to stop development here of what was to be the world’s largest jetport & runway. A mix of habitats: hardwood hammocks, pinelands, prairies, cypress swamps, estuaries. Villages of Miccosukee & Seminole peoples. In the heart of the endangered Florida panther's range; hence the "Panther Crossing" signs.

          A stop at the 1st Visitor Center, a short boardwalk thru pretty vegetation, a brief manatee sighting, but no gators. On to the nearby H.P. Williams Roadside Park: Good views of birds, one that lands & dives for small fish, small snakes coiled up below the boardwalk, 2 gators, one posing nicely with an egret. 

          We could continue about 20 miles to where there might be many gators, but lunch seems a better idea, To Everglade City where carnival rides are being set up for a Seafood Festival starting tomorrow. This area was inhabited by early Native Americans, but became uninhabited until settlers in 1873. In 1890s northern tourists began coming via yacht to hunt & fish in winter. Triad Seafood Market & Cafe looks good for lunch, rustic dining along the water; tasty seafood (what else!).

Back home, coming in we can see what a huge complex Jim & Susan are in, many different communities. Continuing the seafood theme, salmon for dinner. More Olympics on TV. Shaun White ends his lengthy snowboard career without winning a medal.

 

February 11: “Early Birds and Dinner”

Marjorie & I up early to borrow the van to explore the Everglades more, after I take Poppy out for a pee. It takes a while to figure out the van's bells & whistles, some missteps driving out of the complex (Marjorie saves the day learning to get directions on her phone). Back to Big Cypress NP as the sun rises. Another beautiful AM, quickly into the 70s and 80s by PM.

          We drive further today to Oasis Visitor Center. Gators from small to large, many birds offer closeup ops, fish & a turtle. Back to the roadside park from yesterday, the same bird/gator combo seems to be on duty. 

After viewing a large Florida panther sculpture (sharing space with a gorilla & Bigfoot), a stop into Collier-Seminole State Park for a short hike on Royal Palm Hammock Trail; crossing paths with a little lizard.

          Back home, after some breakfast, Susan drives us into downtown Naples, past pretty buildings & houses to Naples Pier. Mary joins us (Jeff headed back to the condo). The pier juts out into the Gulf; built 1888, rebuilt several times after hurricanes. Long sandy beaches spread both directions, lots of people, colorful beach umbrellas, pretty buildings. People fishing from the pier, pelicans & egrets, a dolphin swimming nearby. Such a fine scene!

          Susan drives us around to gawk at fancy homes, shops & restaurants downtown. Very busy in town this afternoon & evening. Heading back home but a stop at Culver's for turtle sundaes and other treats. Before dinner? Well, call it lunch. 

Out for "Early Bird" dinner at Bistro 821. Very busy, Jim points out interesting choreography of service staff. Some treats at retro Regina's Ice Cream. Back home, Susan organizes a rousing game of "Mexican Train" dominos, so dubbed when Mexican railroad workers in the early 20^thC were seen playing “Dominó Cubano,” itself adapted from a Chinese version of the game. On the Olympics: scary skeleton races; a gerontological victory as 40-year-old man & 36-year-old woman win gold in mixed snowboard cross; very young US men's hockey team defeats Canada.

February 12: “Tropical Flowers and Lowbrow Pizza”

          I'm up & out walking early as usual, another beautiful sunrise, already 60s & headed to low 80s. Lots of bird photo ops. The thwack of golf balls nearby gets my golf juices flowing. And forget the falling iguanas- watch out for large palm fronds from above! Back to the usual enthusiastic greeting from Poppy. Relaxation with coffee on the lanai.

          Naples Botanical Garden is today's main event. Opened 2009-10 on 170 acres, specializing in tropical flora "between the 26th latitudes," it's the youngest garden to receive American Public Gardens Association's Award for Garden Excellence. 2 large lakes & diverse garden areas, including Brazilian, Caribbean, Asian, Orchid, Water Garden, River of Grass. Beautiful flowers & funky trees. "Highlights & History" tour by excellent guide Juniper, informative & entertaining, including a drone photo of spectacular Christmas decorations. 

Past "Stickwork," an "immersive structure" made of 30,000 pounds of willow saplings. Soft guitar music played as our tour begins, then a lovely folk concert by Patchouli & Terra Guitarra that fills a large area of the garden with audience in lawn chairs, sort of Tanglewood with Palm Trees. A wonderful visit, lots to see, many photos! After snacks in the Fogg Cafe, exit thru the gift shop.

          Back home to relax. Following Matt's recommendation good pizza for dinner from LowBrow Pizza & Beer ("Serious about pizza & beer and not much else"). Olympic viewing: skiing, bobsled, figure skating.

 

February 13: “Super Sunday”

          It's Super Bowl Sunday! Also Nat'l Cheddar Day. A rainy AM, local meteorologist Holly says a good day to stay in and watch the game. Coverage begins at 12 for 6:30 kickoff! A news reminder of yesterday's beautiful weather: gator sunbathing on a dock. Olympic news: Norway leads medal count, US 6th; Erin Jackson of US is the 1^st Black woman to win a speedskating medal - gold! - and she didn't start speedskating until 2016, transitioning from inline & roller derby skating. St. Pius Mass streams on the lanai.

          A pretty partly sunny afternoon. Susan & Marjorie go out for more "party" supplies. Jeff & Mary scout out the Marco Island Marriott for possible future use. Jim & I relax at home, not watching pregame. I do my daily check of e-mail, Facebook, and Times-Union e-edition. In the news: US withdraws most diplomats from Ukraine as Russian troops still massed along the border; trucker anti-vax protests continue to block US-Canada border (but are cleared tomorrow); MLB owner-player talks resume as spring training looms. The afternoon has become quite lovely, so I take a drive in the van. First thru Everglades City to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center for a few photos. 

          On to Big Cypress Bend with boardwalk thru a cypress swamp, a different ecosystem than other stops. Impressive, very tall trees, lush undergrowth, bird closeups, but no gators. Here is also Fakahatchee Strand, aka “The Amazon of North America,” the world's largest subtropical strand swamp. 

Another stop or 2 for views of Everglades "grasses."

          Back home, Susan, Mary, & Marjorie watching The Gilded Age. The guys catch the end of the Phoenix Open golf, into extra holes but finishes just in time to switch to the Super Bowl. Good eats: excellent spread of appetizers, main courses of chili/sausages/brats, football-shaped cake for dessert. A close game, half-time show lost on us (tho later lauded as a “hip-hop triumph”), exciting finish; Rams beat Bengals 23-20.

February 14: “Opulent Island and Swamp Walk”

          Happy Valentine Day! Another gorgeous albeit brisk (high 40s) AM. After my brief walk with Poppy, Marjorie & I take the van to Marco Island, largest of Florida's Ten Thousand Islands, as the sun rises. Can't find any way to a beach area, but plenty to gawk at: opulent houses, manatee & pelican mailboxes, canals winding into residential areas, bobcat & tortoise crossings, colorful mural on a research station building. 

Many vultures picking thru garbage are less scenic. Into Publix Market for some breakfast pastries. Pretty views by a bridge taking us off the island. 

          Back to the Big Cypress Bend boardwalk I enjoyed yesterday; Marjorie is also impressed. More bird photo ops. Another stop for watery Everglades views, then back home. 

         

         

          Mary & Jeff gone to Sanibel Island. I take a last stroll, including a preserve across the main road as a full moon rises. 

          We all reunite for a special Valentine dinner: shrimp cocktail, flank steak (done on an indoor grill without any smoke!), cheesecake & chocolate-dipped strawberries for dessert.

 February 15: “Back to Winter”

 

           

          Another brisk AM with especially gorgeous sunrise spreading out for photo after photo after photo. Olympic news: 15-year-old Russian figure-skater Kamila Valieva allowed to compete despite failed drug test; US 3^rd in medals behind Norway & “ROC” (Russian Olympic Committee, so-named due to past transgressions). Other news: an emu running loose in Florida orange groves; concern for Queen Elizabeth since Charles & Camilla positive for COVID. Mary & Jeff head off, aiming to go thru Mississippi. Susan drives us about 40 minutes to Fort Myers Southwest Regional International Airport. Once more across Rattlesnake Hammock Rd., onto I-75 north; I-75 south has a 10-mile long bumper-to-bumper backup! Curbside check-in, quick thru security. We share a Cuban panini for lunch, on-time noon departure, “Economy Plus” seats again. 

           

Into Newark 30 minutes early at 2:30, another skyline view coming in. On-time 4:30 departure, sun reflecting off Freedom Tower as we taxi, another skyline view as we take off. 

Views of the Hudson R & Catskills, early to Albany at 5:15 as the sun sets & full moon rises. Thankfully, not much snow while we were away, don’t have to dig the car out or dig our way into our driveway.

             Good times with friends, family (and dog), a special thanks to our wonderful hosts. Very cooperative & mostly warm weather, pretty communities, lots of flora & fauna, flights on time & uneventful. A relaxed & relaxing schedule. More than 600 photos. A fine “snowbirding” & pandemic “coming out” trip.