New Paltz, Catskill, and Nantucket Outings

 

New Paltz-Catskill-Nantucket 

Spring 2021

          With multiple pandemic cancellations & rebookings, there haven’t been journal-worthy travels for a while. And I’ve missed my travel agent persona. So I’ve decided to combine here a day trip to New Paltz & Catskill with a weekend jaunt to Nantucket to give my writing chops some work. Its nice to get away a bit on these mini-trips, but we haven’t been hermits, finding various earlier Spring outings and photo ops. Flowering trees & shrubs have been beautiful, forsythia seem particularly bright, and daffodils then tulips coming out in force. 

 

One highlight: thanks to guidance from golf buddy Mike I’m able to zoom into a view of Mama Eagle nest-sitting outside Cobleskill.

 

New Paltz-Catskill

            Before getting into the day trip, I’ll start earlier in that week with my Red Cross drive on National Volunteer Day (April 20). Laboratory head Stephanie has small bags of treats for us volunteers.

An occasional sweet is enjoyed on a longer drive than expected when I’m asked to continue my route down to Ellenville. I enjoy the pretty drive & Spring photo ops as I deliver blood to hospitals in Hudson, Rhinebeck, Poughkeepsie, and Ellenville. 

Next day exciting news as Marjorie continues to make waves in the arts scene. Her piece (“Mixed Bouquet”) is accepted for a very competitive show at the Arkell Museum in Canajoharie; 217 pieces submitted by 48 artists, only 46 chosen by 37 artists. And a bonus: Marjorie has also already surpassed her Relay for Life fundraising goal!

But I digress. Looking into a visit to Cedar Grove, the Catskill birthplace of artist Thomas Cole, I’m enticed by a special “Spring Lights” weekend evening event. We decide to make a bigger day of it by including New Paltz an hour further south along the Thruway. Going thru that town on some Red Cross drives I’ve been intrigued by what looks to be an interesting downtown of “funky” shops & restaurants; it’s a college town, after all (SUNY-New Paltz). We invite friend Linda to join us. She can’t do the evening event due to a conflict, but proclaims New Paltz one of her favorite places, so she’ll join in for part of the day.

Typical Albany Spring weather: Wed. night low 28° & snow showers. Tulips don’t seem pleased. But Marjorie thinks it’s just fine to go dig up some free aged manure for her garden. What a full exciting life we lead! But today (4/24) brings beautiful Spring weather, mostly sunny & up to mid-70s. Down the Thruway to New Paltz. New Paltz was founded in 1678 by French Huguenots settlers. The village population of 7,100 is “enlivened” by 8,000 SUNY students. The NY Times calls New Paltz “beautiful, sporty and cultured,” with historic houses, shops, galleries, and diverse ethnic cuisines; it “lures urban dwellers with a package of fresh air, green space and progressive politics.” 

 

We arrive early before our brunch rendezvous with Linda, so time to poke around a bit. First outside of town toward the Shawangunk Mtns (“The Gunks”) and a view of the Testimonial Gateway Rower, circa 1907, which was the entrance to Mohonk Mountain House until 1945, now a trailhead. We also spot a sign to Unison Arts sculpture park. We stop briefly to see enough to want to come back with Linda. Back into New Paltz, parking in a lot with unusual meters shared by 2 spaces, and only 25¢ an hour! Pretty tulips & building murals nearby. 

           

It’s busy, lots of traffic, lines to get into our brunch rendezvous spot Main Street Bistro, but we’re able to get a table in an hour when Linda will be here. A short walk to stroll thru Water Street Market. I walk further for photo ops of colorful sculptures & shops near Wallkill River and panoramic views of The Gunks. 

Back up to meet Linda. A look into “Heady Teddy Outfitters,” a shop with things from colorful 60s-style apparel to sex aids. After an excellent brunch at the Bistro (“South of the Border” breakfast burrito for me), we drive a short distance out of town to Wallkill View Farm Market. Many colorful plants are purchased. And more photos toward The Gunks are taken. As we exit there’s a sign we hadn’t noticed for key lime pie; later the ladies nix my suggestion to go back for some.

Back to Unison. A nonprofit established 1976, it “offers opportunities to grow our collective community through innovative art practices.” Space for classes, performances, & events, including weddings; 5-acre sculpture park with 70+ works scattered among trees and in a large open field.  An unexpected Wow! Unusual pieces, we’re especially taken by “The Burghers of Ellenville.”

Up the Thruway to Catskill. Established 1788 with a population now of about 12,000, it has been called a “picture-perfect example of a historic river town” and “an artist’s paradise.” It’s tucked between the Hudson River & Catskill Creek below the Catskill Mtns. Our destination is Cedar Ridge, the Thomas Cole National Historic Site. It marks the birthplace of the nation’s 1^st major art movement, the Hudson River School, founded by Cole (1801-1848). An English migrant displaced by the Industrial Revolution, he fell in love with the American wilderness and landscapes, especially the Hudson River Valley and Catskills, and advocated for preservation: “I cannot but express my sorrow that the beauty of such landscapes is quickly passing away.” The site includes his home & beautiful grounds, and is linked to the Hudson River Skywalk, a scenic walkway across the Hudson River on the Rip Van Winkle Bridge to Olana, the historic home of Cole’s student, Frederic Church. Judging by their homes, these were not starving artists. We can see the grounds set up for tonight’s “Spring Lights.” The grounds are pretty, but we’re surprised to see no view of the river, maybe things have built up to block a view Cole might have had.

To another site nearby, Beattie-Powers Place, an 1839 Greek Revival house & grounds, now a public park & venue for lectures and concerts. And a beautiful view of the Hudson River & Rip Van Winkle Bridge. Linda heads home. 

We head past beautiful Victorian homes and a Franciscan friary to Main Street and then Dutchman’s Landing Park along the river, a lovely spot of playgrounds & picnics. Henry Hudson and his ship Half Moon stopped along here in 1609. 

We decide there’s time to head home to relax and have dinner before the evening’s event. So thru Catskill’s downtown, past impressive Greene County Courthouse & Victorian storefronts, then up the Thruway.

After a short nap (for me) and leftovers dinner, we’re ready to head back to Catskill and Cedar Ridge. As Marjorie says, “a good day, more to come.” Lots of deer along the Thruway, 20-25 in one large open field. A bit early for our timed ticket, still some light to see how the lights are arranged around the grounds. We head out on the path carrying little lanterns to light our way (Marjorie later gives our lanterns to a new friend, 5^th-grader Vivian, she meets along the way). The experience combines “immersive light and sound environments” that include audio of Cole’s writings by an actor – “a kaleidoscopic animation of color and imagery that evokes the depth and richness of Cole’s canvases” (Albany Times Union). 

It’s another Wow! The lights change color, sparkling at times, lighting up a gazebo and giving eerie looks to the trees, colorful projections on a side building, hazy full moon above. More than expected, making good use of a relatively small area. Back to Albany, couldn’t have asked for a better day.

          While I’m at it, I’ll insert 2 more Catskill visits here, tho they came after our Nantucket trip. Golf buddy Mike and I played a round at Catskill Golf Club then lunch. Mike knows Catskill because he sometimes gives driving tests here for the DMV, so he suggests Port of Call. Good food and views outside under an awning along Catskill Creek, the Hudson River off to the left. The nearby point offers a view of Rip Van Winkle Bridge and Olana atop a hill across the river. During lunch I call Marjorie to let her know teasingly what a good time I’m having, and suggest we do a trip down, since the village looks interesting. 

 

After lunch I take some time strolling Main Street and the many cat sculptures decorated in imaginative and beautiful ways by local artists as part of Cat’n Around Catskill, in its 15^th year. The cats are auctioned off, I think at the end of the year. 

          Following up, Marjorie and I make the drive to Catskill on a perfect sunny 70º day. She needs a day off from gardening after a stretch of hot humid weather. First stop, on a tip from Mike, is St. Anthony’s Friary, a Franciscan site in the hills above the town neighboring Cedar Grove. It’s quite a large complex with pretty exterior, but the chapel is closed up (an omen, as it happens). A pretty view toward the river. A short walk into woods to see a small chapel and sculpture of St. Francis.

Past pretty houses, including what may count as “painted ladies” with several colors highlighting architectural details. 

A walk along Main Street, pretty building facades & store windows; but most stores are closed today (Monday). This has happened before on our travels, raising Marjorie’s suspicions; I deny any foreknowledge or intent! And she agrees it’s still a perfect day, and the many cats are fun to see. Lots of local “characters” hanging out, including an apparent street musician with guitar slung over his shoulder. 

Garden Gate Café is open for a break: tasty muffins & good coffee, listening to local banter with friendly owner Eileen. DPW workers outside watering flowers.

Typically I do the broad planning for our outings, with Marjorie’s input here & there. Her add-on now takes us over the river to Frederic Church’s Olana, adding to our Hudson River School touring. But no house tours today! Oh well, it’s lovely to walk around the grounds. 

The house is beautiful, as is the “mingle garden” full of irises, peonies, roses, allium, and other flowers along a stone wall. Plus a panoramic river view, of course. 

Driving back toward Catskill thru a roundabout our GPS lady doesn’t have in her programming: “You’re going the wrong way down the street!” Back in town, Port of Call is also closed today, but we find Creekside Retauarant in Hop-O-Nose Marina on the other side of Catskill Creek. Good views and food – calamari & crab cakes - here, as well, to close out a lovely day.

 

 

 

 

Nantucket

          We’re going on a trip! It seems like forever since we’ve done more than local daytrips. This will complete a Nor’East island trifecta: Martha’s Vineyard, Block Island, Nantucket. Plus Marjorie counts this as a “cruise” (i.e., a boat on the ocean) to replace our twice-cancelled Portugal river cruise; will there be a buffet? We’ve missed the island’s Daffodil Festival, canceled the last 2 years due to the COVID pandemic. But things have opened up enough to visit friends Francisco & Beth. Francisco commutes via ferry to Boston, where he conducts the Boston Civic Symphony and is on the conducting faculty and music director of the Berklee Contemporary Symphony Orchestra at Berklee College of Music in Boston. Beth is near completing her 1^st year as Superintendent of Nantucket Schools; her year has certainly been plenty challenging. Francisco was Matt’s conductor in the Empire State Youth Orchestra. We were his B&B for overnight rehearsal stays, and he and I had some spirited tennis matches. Francisco seems desperate for visitors, keeps sending questions & info: What do we want for breakfast? What kind of cereal? Do we like salmon? Do you want to swim in the ocean? How about this trail? We’re apparently their 1^st nonfamily visitors since the pandemic began. We bring along proof of vaccination if need to exempt us from requirements like quarantine for people traveling into MA or out to the islands.

Nantucket is an island (14 miles long East-West, 6 miles wide North-South) 30 miles south of Cape Cod, with year-round population about 11,000, expanding to some 50,000 in summer. The name comes from a Wampanoag term for "far away place." It’s a National Historic Landmark District: the "finest surviving architectural and environmental example of a late 18th- and early 19th-century New England seaport town."

           I’ll relate some Nantucket history courtesy of a book from Francisco: Nathaniel Philbrick's Away Off Shore: Nantucket Island and its People, 1602-1890 (this book and the sights & sounds of Nantucket gave inspiration for musical composition “Great Point,” livestreamed by Francisco & brother Miguel last Fall). Europeans arrived beginning 1659, partly due to Puritan/Quaker tensions. They had been preceded, of course, by Native Americans. The Wampanoag were a "Native American society at full, preplague strength" who greeted the newcomers (also the Pilgrims at Plymouth) "with kindness and hospitality." Early leaders included names now familiar to us: Peter Macy (Macy's founder was a distant cousin), Peter Folger (Folgers Coffee founder was born on the island), and Edward Starbuck. The latter deserves some detail. Starbucks Coffee was supposedly named after the Moby Dick character, but Melville was inspired by Nantucket whaler Essex being sunk by a sperm whale (see Philbrick, In the Heart of the Sea) and may in turn have used the Nantucket Starbuck name. Quakerism was growing by the beginning of the 18th C, Congregationalism later. Nantucket dominated whaling in the 18th & early 19th C (Moby Dick’s Ishmael started his ill-fated voyage at Nantucket), growing to the 3rd largest port in New England. Ichabod Paddock, the island's 1st "professional whaleman," was, legend has it, swallowed by a whale and therein encountered a beautiful mermaid. But whaling began to decline following an 1846 fire that destroyed 1/3 of the town, and larger whalers could not pass over sandy shoals at the harbor entrance. The population dwindled in the 1870s, but tourism began to grow at the end of the 19th C. Siasconset fishing shacks have been called America's "first summer resort," and Nantucket became "a mecca for the wealthy and powerful."

 

Friday, May 14: “Lighthouses and Flowers”

           A cyberattack last week shut down a pipeline that delivers about 45% of fuel for the East Coast, creating fears of a gas shortage and a "self-fulfilling prophecy” (a sociologist might say) of panic buying that led to long lines of cars and closed stations in the Southeast & Mid-Atlantic (shades of the 1970s). The pipeline restarted Wed. night, but still days until normal. No sign of problems around here, but we make sure to fill up our tank before driving to the Cape.

A beautiful sunny AM (up to 74º!) as we head off at 7:30 for a 4-hour drive to Hyannis, only our 2^nd time on the Cape. Should be plenty early to get parked, have some lunch, maybe even take some photos around the harbor. Traffic backs up (tho nothing like summer!) as we near construction on Bourne Bridge, so as Francisco advised we switch over to use Sagamore Bridge to save some time. A phone call to the ferry directs us to an open parking lot, a short walk to the harbor. Marjorie gets tasty sandwiches from nearby Baxter’s while I grab a few harbor photos.

Francisco advised using a high-speed Steamship Authority ferry. So we sail on M/V Iyanough, a seasonal high-speed passenger-only vessel on the 26-mile 1-hour route. Named after an Indian Sachem Chief of the Mattacheese tribe, the all-aluminum catamaran launched in 2007 carries up to 400 passengers & crew. 

A smooth ride, around the pretty little Brant Point Lighthouse into the harbor. Off the boat and there’s Francisco waiting with his convertible. A brief swing thru town, then out to their rented house on South Shore Rd. Beautiful surroundings – our hosts have thoughtfully arranged for flowering trees to be fully in bloom – and pretty interior: comfy living & dining rooms, a small deck, lovely upstairs bedroom for us next to Francisco’s studio. Unpacking, I realize I forgot to shave and didn’t bring my shaver! Maybe I secretly wanted to take on a whaler’s look. Or my traveling instincts are out of practice.

We’re granted use of the convertible; F says we can’t get too lost here. Lots of jeeps on the road, bike paths all along. We head east to Siasconset, passing so-called “Serengeti” plains (but no elephants in sight). 

Unable to locate the Sconset Bluff Walk, but good views of Sankaty Light overlooking a pretty golf course and homes nearby. Here and elsewhere still quite a few daffodils; the spring festival must be impressive. 

Beth is home when we return. We all head to Madaket Beach on the far west end just in time for sunset. Then, as usual here, it cools off quickly. Francisco and I into town to pick up pizza. When we return he can’t find his wallet, goes back out to search unsuccessfully and file a police report. After he’s back Beth goes out to the car and returns with the wallet. Francisco apparently shares what Marjorie calls my “husband attention deficit disorder.” Munchies, pizza, and champagne for dinner. We learn the difference between “Nantucketers” (born here) and “Washashores” (everyone else, no matter how long they’ve lived on the island), I fade early and off to bed, the others enjoy late-night star viewing in the clear dark sky.

 

Saturday, May 15: “Argo and Hollywood”

 

           

I’m up & out early for a sunrise walk. A sewage facility at the end of the road, but a very rugged road to the left takes me past pretty trees, fields of shrubbery, & nice homes, to bluffs with a view toward the coast. 

Back past their house for a view of a pretty “painted” horse (Argo) and miniature donkey (Hollywood); we’ll meet them later. Back home, Oops!, forgot my key! And, even worse, I forget another is hidden by the deck! (see “husband attention deficit disorder” above) I did bring my phone, a call to Marjorie brings her down; luckily, looks can’t really kill.

           

Francisco drives us into town in their Jeep, stirring Marjorie’s memories of learning to drive in a Jeep (named “Jello” – always room for more). F shows us a set of 1836 Starbuck houses with (as is common here) “widow’s walks” on the roof, then leaves us to wander. So many beautiful things to see on another perfect day. Historic homes, including the 1790 home and nearby observatory of Maria Mitchell, the 1^st female astronomer in America; she was honored as the 1^st to discover a “telescopic comet” in 1847. 

Beautiful churches: First Congregationalist, Unitarian Universalist, St. Mary’s Roman Catholic. The Nantucket Atheneum, founded in 1834, has sponsored educational & cultural programs by such as Ralph Waldo Emerson, Horace Greeley, and Henry David Thoreau. Beautiful store windows and flower boxes.

          

          

We enjoy wandering thru the impressive Whaling Museum. Sperm whale (skeleton, that is) hangs from the ceiling. Exhibits of beautiful scrimshaw, boxes, chests, baskets (there’s another museum of baskets, but it doesn’t draw much excitement from Marjorie). 

Harbor & town views from the roof. Two interesting films on town history and the centrality of whaling. The Quakers made this a beacon of free thought. Frederick Douglas gave his 1^st speech here. Women were empowered. Mary Coffin Starbuck converted to Quakerism and was “The Great Mary of Nantucket.” Kezia Folger Coffin was something of a “Lady MacBeth” of whaling, unlike other wives who were never “turbulent, of high temper, and difficult to be ruled.” Maria Mitchell was an award-winning astronomer. One film tells of townspeople trying (unsuccessfully) to save a beached sperm whale in 1997. There’s also an interesting looking Discovery Center for children.

A good lunch at Rose & Crown, with the requisite chowdah. We phone Francisco for our uber ride back home. He was helping coach the tennis team, Beth offering support, but they lost to Martha’s Vineyard. A stop at Island Kitchen for ice cream later, including Beth’s favorite charcoal flavor – doesn’t look appetizing, but tastes OK. 

A visit next door with Argo & Hollywood, Marjorie feeding them some carrots and they enjoy brushings by Beth. Black lab Wyatt excitedly chases a ball. Also chickens & guinea hens. Owner Denny offers tastes of homemade rum. 

After a yummy salmon dinner, into town to walk along the wharf, streets with colorful lighted store windows, lighted Congregationalist Church. A realtor office gives a glimpse of housing costs: $1 million, $4 million, $7 million, $12 million! Beth notes it’s difficult for teachers to afford to live her. I guess we’ll just visit.

 

Sunday, May 16: “Bluffs and Beaches”

            Some clouds at first, tho still a pretty sunrise. We all enjoy coffee out front, joined by 2 white ducks. Marjorie & I then drive again past the “Serengeti” to embark successfully this time on the Sconset Bluff Walk. 

Somewhat reminiscent of Newport, the trail takes us thru backyards of beautiful houses, views down to the beach & ocean (Francisco says next landfall is Portugal), lots of flowers & blooming trees, Some pretty painted “joke shells.” Why did the crab cross the beach?: to get to the other tide. What did the pirate say on his 80th birthday?: Aye Matey. Some of the houses along here were used for storage when whales were so plentiful to allow early offshore whaling, We see a seal swimming just off the beach. 

           

Back home Francisco prepares brunch, highlighted by arepas, a South American delicacy (reflecting Francisco’s Venezuelan roots): like a fluffy scone that we stuff with black beans, eggs, cheese, tomatoes. Yummy! We gather in the living room to watch a video of F’s brother Miguel performing an intriguing new composition using musical software.

All of us out for another drive (by the way, gas here is $4.19/gallon!) along a beach in the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge, way out east on the island’s “hook.”  Can’t drive all the way out on the beach – protecting nesting plovers (little white shorebirds). F & B use a handy gadget to deflate tires to 15 psi before a bumpy ride. Several groups of seals swimming just off the pretty beach. 

A stop at the “reinflation station” on the way out. To U Mass-Boston Nantucket Station for a harbor view. Home for another fine dinner on another beautiful evening. Steamers (a very labor-intensive New England thing), using a bucket of clams freshly dug from the beach by neighbor Denny, burgers, coleslaw, corn on the cob. Then “In and Of Itself,” a video performance Marjorie has seen with son Matt in NYC by Derek DelGaudio, a “storyteller and conceptual magician”

 

Monday, May 17: “Back to Nearby America”

 

I’m out early again to the end of the road, but turn right this time onto a Land Bank trail that curves around the sewage plant to the coast. Beautiful flora, trees covered with moss, little low flowers. Lovely houses in the distance. I’m not quick enough to get a photo of 2 deer. Pretty views from bluffs overlooking the beach as the sun rises. A bird atop a tree serenades me as I return home. 

Another gorgeous day, up to 78º! This seems a quite idyllic place to live. Special events like Daffodil Weekend and Christmas Stroll are enticing for a return visit. After breakfast I accompany Francisco to the dump. A pretty drive (like everywhere here!), past a large cemetery and picturesque Sanford Farm. Very detailed sorting of detritus required here.

Sadly, it’s time to go back to “nearby America,” as they say here. Francisco has a rehearsal in Boston, so we share another smooth ferry ride to Hyannis. Not so full as Friday. The water is so beautiful! Francisco posts frequent photos on Facebook of his travels to & from. Some sprinkles and dark clouds on our drive back to Albany.

 

What a wonderful long weekend! Gorgeous weather, beautiful sights, excellent food, the company and hospitality of good friends.