Vermont Inn 2020

Vermont Inn 2020 

            I was stuck for a Christmas present for Marjorie when a vision appeared: an on-line “Living Social” sale. A bit of searching found a good deal for a scenic historic inn in Vermont ˗ and Marjorie does love her a good Vermont inn. This is another in a series of stays at Vermont (and other Northeast) inns beginning in 1992 for our anniversary and most recently January 2019. The choice for this year, Snapdragon Inn in Windsor, isn’t far from last year’s Castle Hill Resort in Ludlow, and will hopefully provide similar holiday decompression.

The Vermont theme for my Christmas shopping continued that same afternoon at an open house by choir & artist friends Mary (jewelry) and George (painting & woodcuts). George had recently finished a beautifully intricate wood “engraving” from his drawing of a tree at Robert Frost’s home in Vermont (appropriately titled “Poet Tree”). We had visited that home in 2017, and I knew Marjorie (and I) would love the piece to add to George’s painting we have. So I snapped up #4 of George’s planned run of 180 prints.

Our getaway at the inn is shoehorned into a busy last week of January. I have a dental “extraction” early Saturday AM, from which (thankfully) I have no issues for a jaunt to NYC on Sunday 1/26. AM drive to Poughkeepsie, joined by friend Marlene for the usual scenic ride on MetroNorth down the Hudson, with dramatic clouds, to the Harlem-125^th St Station. 

Taxi crosstown to the 92^nd Street Y, taking note with grandparental pride of grandson Miles’ photo on a billboard outside touting the Musical Theater program. 

After some tasty pizza rolls at Marinara nearby, the highlight of the day: Miles singin’ & dancin’ in a lead role as Billy Lawlor in the Musical Theater Workshop production of “42^nd Street.” Fabulous! 

We retrace our steps via taxi & train to Marlene’s, her tasty burritos for dinner and beautiful tree lighted up for us, then back to Albany. This jaunt will be repeated in a week (see below).

After some quiet days, Thursday begins our 2 night stay at the inn. But first: Windsor VT is just across the Connecticut River from NH, which brought to mind college friends Alice & Rick who live in Pelham NH, and who we have not seen in way too long. So we contacted them and arranged a lunch rendezvous in Keene, about midway between our inn and their home. 

A sunny cloudless AM, temp in the teens for a 2-hour+ drive: past Big Moose Deli and Country Store in Hoosic with its collection of animal figures outside ranging from deer and moose to gorillas, to Bennington, across southern VT to Brattleboro, over the Connecticut River to Keene. We haven’t had much snow since an early December 26” storm, but there’s enough snow on the ground along the way here to give a wintry feel. “Moose Crossing” and “Moose” road signs, but none in sight. Another indicator of locale: “Bernie”, “Pete,” and other campaign signs & TV ads as the NH Presidential primary approaches.

We’re into Keene early. Marjorie spots a thrift store, but it’s closed. Into Hannah Grimes Marketplace, filled with crafts from over 250 local artisans. Named after a local farmer born in 1776 who with her husband produced, sold, and bartered local products, the Marketplace opened in 1997 to continue that tradition, and now includes a Center for Entrepreneurship to support local businesses. A beautiful store, tho nothing catches our fancy. 

A clerk points Marjorie toward More Than a Thrift Store which proves to have old jewelry and picture frames to use in her artwork ˗ we’ll come back after lunch.

Lunch is at Luca’s Mediterranean Café, opposite Central Square, a typical New England green with pretty church, gazebo, statues. Alice & Rick are waiting for us. A tasty & filling lunch, enjoyable conversation as we catch up on each other’s lives, tho I’m struck by Alice’s reference to “septuagenarians” ˗ can that really be us? Alice gives some good tips on DNA mapping for dogs (for our grandpuppy Arlo) and their upcoming trip thru the Panama Canal, which catches Marjorie’s interest since her Uncle Bill served there in the army. We continue our visit at the thrift shop, where Marjorie has found old jewelry and picture frames. Alice & Rick head back home and we drive about an hour northeast to Windsor.

            Windsor, the "Birthplace of Vermont," is where the Constitution of Vermont was adopted in 1777, founding the Vermont Republic, a sovereign state until Vermont joined the United States in 1791. And this was a leading commercial center, including 9 gristmills & 8 sawmills in 1796. It now offers “a quaint downtown” and “unique shopping experiences” (including Artisans Park, more on that below), plus a walking tour featuring more than 40 historic structures. A quick turn as we come into town takes us thru the Windsor-Cornish Covered Bridge spanning the Connecticut River from VT to NH, a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. At 465’ it’s the longest 2-span covered bridge in the world and longest wooden bridge in the US. An additional photo stop for the falls at Ascutney Mill Dam, sandwiched between a 19^th C armory to produce rifles and the largest apartment block in New England when built in 1922 for workers at National Acme Manufacturing.

Check-in at the Inn proves to be self-service: an envelope on a front hall table contains room key and orienting instructions. Some history: the Snapdragon Inn, first known as the Skinner house, was built in 1815. Skinner owned a busy stage line along the Connecticut River. William Evarts purchased the home in the 1820s, and it remained in that family for almost 200 years. Evarts was the first president of the NYC Bar Association, chief counsel for President Andrew Johnson during his impeachment trial (an interesting coincidence, given current events), and served as US Attorney General, Secretary of State, and in the Senate. The house passed to his daughter and later to her children, one of whom (Max Perkins) was a well-known editor at Scribner’s who guided the literary careers of Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Thomas Wolfe among many others; there’s Hemingway memorabilia, including an old typewriter, in our room and the library. After passing down to other family, the house was sold to the current owners in 2007.

The Inn is beautiful, both exterior & interior. There’s a large entry hall with a piano, a dining room for breakfast, the Maxwell Perkins Library, guest lounge, and kitchen downstairs.  Upstairs are 9 bedrooms, each with en suite bathroom. Our “Room #2” is spacious and pretty. A short walk away is Paradise Park nature preserve surrounding Lake Runnemede. Gordon Ramsay, famous British chef/restaurateur, has been one of their “favorite guests;” he tweeted "loved it many thanks." We also approve!

After settling in I head out for a walk, but first a chat with manager Dominique and her friendly and adorable 3-tear-old Willow. They tell me of a bald eagle at the lake, so I go there first; no eagle, but pretty views. The other direction takes me into town. Into beautiful white-colonnaded Windsor House where I chat with the directors of Volunteers in Action and Historic Windsor about our shared nonprofit and volunteer experiences, and pick up a walking tour brochure. 

Many lovely examples of Federal, Greek Revival, Italianate, and Gothic Revival styles: Old South Church (from 1798), McIndoe House with “an abundance of playful ornamentation,” the 1859 Post Office and Courthouse with cupola, to name a few.  

Dinner at Windsor Station Restaurant in the old railroad depot. Nice ambience, good food (we enjoy flatbread & ravioli options “of the moment,” and finish with cheesecake “of the moment”), live music by “Morning Dudes.” A very friendly helpful waiter brings Marjorie a taste of coffee liqueur (and tells her where to buy it ˗ see tomorrow for the predictable result); she combines this with vanilla ice cream into tasty affogato.

I’m up and out looking for photo ops as the sun is rising Friday, crisp & clear. A few miles up the road to Artisans Park. Thru a tunnel under RR tracks for a quick look at Path of Life sculpture garden along the river. Snow-covered, more a summer thing, but we’ll be back later to explore the shops here. 

Driving along past pretty houses, sun on the hills and along the river, a scenic pond. News on the radio: it’s National Hot Chocolate Day, Fair Haven VT will be voting on Sammy the dog vs. Lincoln the goat for Honorary Mayor (it’s a fundraiser). 

Back to the Inn for self-serve breakfast, lots of good choices: waffles, bagels, fruit, granola, etc. Marjorie bonds with Willow, who asks to sit with us. (Entries in the guest book indicate that Willow has charmed other guests, as well.)

On the road south to Brattleboro, passing views of ice fishing. To Saxtons River Distillery seeking liqueurs, but first into a colorful neighboring glass & pottery studio. 

Marjorie makes another new friend: the glassblower’s dog Lucy wants to climb all over her! Into the Distillery for last night’s Perc Coffee Liqueur, plus daughter-in-law Anthea’s favorite Sapling Maple Liqueur (which can only be bought in Vermont). 

To a Dollar Store to buy Valentine stickers for Willow, a couple of resale shops and nearby photo ops, past colorful Santa’s Land (closed – Santa & the elves must be decompressing too). 

Back to the Inn to relax with fresh-baked cookies. It’s more overcast now as I walk to the lake; ice fishing here too, but the trail’s too icy to go very far. So we head out to Artisans Park, its various outlets in individual buildings spread across fields near the river. We go from one to another for what becomes a buffet lunch! 

First stop Harpoon Brewery, sharing a very large pretzel (courtesy of a voucher from the Inn) with tasty mustard & cheese sauces. A colorful wall of beer bottles from many sources. 

Next up: Vermont Farmstead Cheese, with a variety of tastings. Then Deliciously Cute Specialty Preserves, more tasting (one favorite: maple & onion spread). 

On to Simon Pearce glass & pottery outlet – no samples here, but we watch a glassblower (as we did last January at another of their studios) and stroll thru the colorful shop. Briefly into Silo Distillery (vodka a specialty), but it’s very busy with a visiting group.

We finish back at Harpoon for a brewery tour with another couple (another Inn voucher). A very interesting 45-minute tour, detailing Harpoon’s history (it’s now employee-owned), the process of producing beer, and the many varieties under the Harpoon label (IPAs, “Clown Shoes” blends, “City Roots” cider, and others). We taste a few, and get to keep the little glasses. We finish off with a filling dinner in their Riverbend Taps and Beer Garden, departing before a trivia contest takes over.

Saturday dawns cloudy, more cars in the lot now. We meet a young couple from near West Point. No sign of Dominique & Willow (we’ll have to send her Valentine stickers), but we know where to find everything for breakfast. We haven’t had any bad B&B experiences, but we’d rate this as one of the best. Our drive home takes us across VT past Chester, Londonderry, Manchester, and Bennington.

Back to Latham in time to relax before heading to the Empire State Youth Orchestras Playathon at Crossgates Mall. ESYO launched Matt’s musical life and we’ve continued to support the organization, including hosting then-new Music Director Carlos Agreda two summers ago when he was moving into the area. And Marjorie has something of a “tradition” of winning the Playathon auction to conduct the orchestra. She wins again this year, but generously hands over the baton to a long-time volunteer.

Sunday brings an overnight dusting of snow. Another 92Y production provides a balanced conclusion to the week. Miles is “Beast” in “Beauty and the Beast.” And today is Super Bowl Sunday ˗ I’ll have to record the game. Another drive to Poughkeepsie, MetroNorth to Grand Central this time, subway uptown to 86^th St. 

Good sandwiches for lunch at Green Café, some poking around in shops, then on to the 92Y. Other family members have been to other performances, so we’re the reps for this one. And it’s wonderful, of course! One glitch: despite Program Director Megan’s impassioned plea to forgo cell phones & photos (videos & photos are being taken by the Y to send out), shortly after it starts the guy next to Marjorie gets out his phone to take a photo . . . until an “intervention” by Marjorie.

Many hugs & photos after the performance. A stop into Starbucks for hot chocolate for Miles. Marjorie shows him the script for her “performance” as a Standardized Patient at Albany Medical College – just 2 thespians sharing their craft. Miles joins us on the subway to Grand Central where we part ways, Miles to Queens and us on MetroNorth back to Poughkeepsie. Only one mention of the game on the train, when the score is tied 10-10. Connections are good to get us back home about 9:30 so I can watch the game without falling asleep. Kansas City defeats San Francisco 31-20.