Australia, New Zealand, & Tahiti

Waltzing Down Under

November 2017

          It’s a long way to Australia & New Zealand! But surviving flights to Vietnam last Spring encouraged us to think about another long trip. Coincidentally during dinner at the home of Aussie colleague Peter, wife Ellen, and sons Conor & Quinn we learned Peter would have a Fall sabbatical at Australian Nat’l U in Canberra. Couldn’t pass up a chance to see some of Australia with a native. Then discovered a Qantas airfare sale  ̶  “dirt cheap” said Peter. Seemed like travel karma. So I did the fastest trip planning ever! Multiple flights across time zones & date lines, several destinations (Auckland NZ, Sydney AUS, Papeete Tahiti to decompress on the way home), plus hotel arrangements via booking.com. Then Qantas kept making changes, mostly in flight times. Whew!! I’m back to my “travel agent” persona, making all the trip arrangements myself. And had to arrange “Electronic Travel Authority” docs on-line for Australia. (And who knows, with the way Trump is going, can we get back into the US? Peter says if we ask for asylum they’ll welcome us right in.) As in some other trips, we’ll have to handle 3 different currencies: Australian & New Zealand dollars are similar (1 AUD = $.77, 1 NZD = $.69) but Tahiti’s Pacific Franc is more complicated (1 CFP = $.01).

          More recently, we’ve been busy since returning from a trip to KC and Branson on 10/25. Marjorie creating another Grandma Halloween costume requested by grandson Miles  ̶  he’ll be a Box of Popcorn! I wading thru 300+ pages of a dissertation  ̶  not quite done with academia. Friday up to Glens Falls for a reception at artist Tom Myott’s studio in “The Shirt Factory,” celebrating his segment on WMHT’s program “AHA” (A House for Arts). Tom’s paintings include beautiful images around the Saratoga track. Marjorie was instrumental in connecting him with WMHT, where she used to work; she also provided a cake for the reception. 

Tom very thoughtfully arranged a room for us at the classic Queensbury Hotel, and we enjoyed the late peak Fall colors in and around Glens Falls. Saturday afternoon off to a play at Curtain Call: “The Legend of Georgia McBride,” a comedy featuring an Elvis impersonator and drag queens. That night to a Halloween costume party hosted by the President of my Mendelssohn Club singing group. 

Sunday a rendezvous with son Matt & family at friend Marlene’s in Poughkeepsie to deliver Miles’ costume and see William’s last-minute decision to be a hot dog. And we fill out our 1^st absentee ballots for the 11/7 election. Whew! We need a vacation.

Thurs., 11/2: “What day is it?”

          A relatively smooth afternoon drive down to JFK. Over the new Tappan Zee Bridge. Heavy traffic over the Whitestone (tho nice sunny views of the city) and along the Van Wyck to our usual Air Park home for the car. Quickly thru check-in  and security, then shared soup & sandwich. Our gate is near a “Pet Relief Area” than includes a mini-hydrant. Onto the plane, chatting with a friendly attendant in stylish “Star Wars” type pink, red, & black uniform. Some uncertainty about seats: I thought I’d gotten Premium Economy back in January but we’re in “extra legroom” bulkhead seats. We’re not quite so pampered as in Premium Economy, but able to stretch out a bit, and we get an interesting view of attendant activities (e.g., what it means to “arm” exits and “cross-check”). Depart JFK 6:45pm under a full moon, arrive LAX 9pm. A layover to change planes, then on to Sydney. Dinner (plus wine) & breakfast during the 14:15 flying time. Sydney is 9 hours earlier than NYC, plus we lose Friday crossing the International Date Line; but we move from Fall to Spring! And Marjorie crosses the Equator for the 1^st time.

Sat., 11/4: “G’day, Mate!” 

          On-time 7:30am Sydney arrival. A pretty airport but we’re only passing thru now. No need for Customs, tho another security screening. A friendly chat with 2 women headed to a Road Scholar tour. Lunch on the 2:20 length flight (with more wine). On-time 2:10pm Auckland NZ arrival (we lose 2 hours going east, it’s tough to keep track of all the time changes). Light rain, 60s, everything so green! Uh-oh, one checked bag is missing. But no worries, we’re told it’s coming on the next flight in 40 minutes, so we wait. A SkyBus ride into Auckland, enjoying the lush semi-tropical vegetation that reminds us of Bermuda) and a chat about rugby with 2 Kiwis  ̶  New Zealand beat Scotland yesterday in a World Cup pool game, a big showdown with Tonga coming up. 

 

To our Econo Lodge City Central, a basic hotel with good central location; Marjorie deems it “perfectly adequate.” 

Out for a get-acquainted stroll. A busy colorful plaza nearby with Aotea Centre; SkyWorld has bowling, cinemas, and food court, interesting interior angles. Lots of diverse shops & eateries in the neighborhood. We eat Turkish tonight.

Sun., 11/5: “Haeve mai (welcome)” 

           Very noisy overnight. Outside commotion may be rugby-related celebration. But an altercation in a nearby room leads us to call the front desk; order seems to be restored. As usual I’m up very early, out for a stroll to nearby Albert Park: beautiful trees, flowers, gazebo & fountain. Cool, some breaks of sun. In the news: Trump is starting an Asian tour; New Zealand Prime Minister expresses concerns over Trump’s effects on trade. 

Hotel has a “continental buffet” breakfast, including such local items as kiwi fruit and vegemite. We catch a “green bus” (CityLink) to The Domain, a large green area overlooking the city. The driver says the route will be circuitous, but I reply the “tour” will be interesting for us. 

A colorful window catches my eye. 

Off the bus and a short walk to the Auckland War Memorial Museum, the first of many wonderful museums on the trip. Surrounded by beautiful grounds, panoramic views of city and harbour, consecrated ground around a Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Major exhibits on Maori history and culture; the Treaty of Waitangi with the British was another example of the mistreatment of indigenous peoples. 

Other exhibits of decorative art and of spectacular entries in a “Wildlife Shot of the Year” contest; “First Shots” by children especially impressive. “The Wild Child” documents childhood in New Zealand. A gallery on volcanoes: there have been 48 eruptions over 250,000 years, the most recent 600 years ago. The museum itself sits on the rim of a volcano. There’s a quite scary simulation of what being in an eruption would be like. 

Other exhibits on New Zealand’s involvement in WWI & II and UN peacekeeping. Panels with names of those killed in action include an empty area labeled “Let these panels never be filled.”

It’s become quite a nice day: lots of sun and warm (we’re a bit over-dressed). A cricket match is being played in a large green area below the museum. We head to see pretty flowers in the nearby Winter Garden conservatories.

Then continue our “bus tour” down to Viaduct Harbour. A huge cruise ship, pretty boats and ferry building. 

Into a supermarket to pick up some breakfast items for tomorrow’s early tour, then a bit of relaxing at the hotel. Marjorie enjoys a “cuppa” (“Enzed” [New Zealand slang] for cup of tea). 

I head to the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki. The winner of a World Building of the Year in 2013, this offers an interesting juxtaposition of different eras and genres in both art and architecture. 

Over to the colorful SkyWorld food court for Indian food.Then sunset from the hotel.

Mon., 11/6: ♫Glow little glowworm, glimmer, glimmer♫ 

       

   A sunny AM, headed to the mid-60s, tho the weather person says there may be “a bit of rubbish” tomorrow. Hope it’s nice for the NYC Marathon today. We’ve booked an excursion into the countryside, one highly recommended by my fellow Red Cross driver Nan; but we nixed the Hobbit-themed tours. To the nearby Crown Plaza for 7am pickup. The “Great Sights” bus is full, people with a variety of arrangements for how much touring they do and whether they return tonight. We’ll have to be careful to stick with the group returning to the city. Off we go, guide Kenny providing rapid-fire commentary. A 2½-hour drive south to start; we’re given a water bottle and 2 cookies for early sustenance. Past a rugby stadium and one of the largest malls in the Southern Hemisphere. An inlet of the Tasman Sea at low tide (and Marjorie is excited to be so near to Tasmania). Pretty clouds, a brief shower. Beautiful lush hilly countryside, mountains in the distance, many sheep & cows clustered together (dairy farming is surpassing sheep farms now). We learn about TipTop ice cream, Hokey-Pokey a favorite flavor.

          First stop is Waitomo Caves, famous for its glowworm caverns surrounded by luxurious rainforest vegetation. A walk thru stalactite formations to Cathedral Chamber, a concert site (e.g., Vienna Boys Choir); we sing a very off-key rendition of “Happy Birthday” to Patty in our group. 

 Then the main event: a boat tour thru Glowworm Grotto, thousands of glowworms illuminating the walls and ceilings. Wow! [Their short life entails capturing and eating other insects like mosquitos, becoming insects, reproducing, and dying; that’s about it.] 

                Take a glowworm home from the gift shop?

  Box lunch on the bus as we continue on for another 2-hour drive. Past sheep & ostriches, kiwi vines, hedges as windbreaks in the fields, deer farms, and so many cows! Thru Putaruru with many interesting signs, store names, murals. Kenny gives info on local forestry, including distinctive Norfolk Island pines.

          A stop at Agrodome, a 350-acre working farm, for “an authentic Kiwi experience.” A sheep-shearing demo  ̶  it’s amazing how much comes from one sheep!  ̶  and mustering by a sheep dog. 

A drive around the farm and its very diverse inhabitants: different varieties of cattle & sheep, deer, llamas, emu, Clydesdales (some used in movies & TV), ponies, donkeys. A stop to feed sheep. 

          On the road again to Rotorua, passing resorts and spas, and the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve. A Maori welcome ceremony: dancing, singing, and cultural demos with audience participation.

          A guide takes us thru the thermal areas; “C’mon my darlings,” she says. Geysers are quite active, colorful deposits, mud pools, lush vegetation. Another Wow! 

Into a very dark kiwi house, but no sightings of the nocturnal bird. And not enough time to go thru the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute. 

Past steam rising from a lake inlet for the 3 hour drive thru pretty countryside back to Auckland. Another box lunch on the way. Back to the city at 8, a pretty sunset. A very long day, but well worth it to see more sides of New Zealand than urban Auckland. “Great sights,” indeed!

Tues, 11/7: “Insects? I don’t think so!” 

          A short walk in the still-dark morning to catch a SkyBus to the airport for our 7:35am flight to Sydney. Here and elsewhere on the trip we see lots of places that cater to backpackers. A nice AM, pretty sunrise at the airport. 

Easy thru security, the listing for our flight status is “Relax,” meaning the gate hasn’t been assigned yet. Marjorie uses our last NZ money on chocolate (to take home to people . . . mostly). Our “Airline Diet” continues with breakfast on the 3-hour flight, arriving Sydney a little early at about 9am. Very efficient entry to Australia using SmartGate and ePassport systems. A beautiful day, sunny & warm (up to the low 70s). A very nice information lady points us to the REDY2GO shuttle, which doesn’t quite live up to its name as the next driver seems to have disappeared. But after some delay we get into the city and the George Street Hotel. 

But things are not as expected. The hotel is rather scruffier, both accommodations and people, than we’d like. When Marjorie asks a young girl what the place is like her reply  ̶  “Insects!”  ̶  sends me out the door to look for alternatives. Success!: ibis Sydney World Square 2 blocks away. After hearing my tale of woe, the friendly front desk clerk gives me a discount plus breakfast included! I go back to collect Marjorie, who is delighted at the turn of affairs. This makes for a much happier next 5 nights. This hotel motto fits: “Well-being at the best price.” 

          Once settled in, we head out to explore Sydney. Into a nice shop nearby, “G’Day Sidney Souvenirs,” then a convenience store to buy an easy-to-use Opal card (“tap on, tap off’) for the transit system. 

The central hotel location makes for easy light rail rides between nearby Museum stop and Circular Quay at the harbour. The trains are quite nice, with upper & lower deck seating. A Wow! view from the train platform of the iconic Opera House and Harbour Bridge. 

It’s a gorgeous PM to spend around the harbour, sunny & a bit breezy, about 70. It’s quite busy with events for today’s Melbourne Cup horse race: “The race that stops the nation” as one local puts it (the winner: Rekindled). Lots of parties, people all dressed up, young women wearing fascinators. Marjorie is able to get onto a tour of the Opera House, with very interesting stories about the construction: it cost 14 times the original estimate, the designer was not fully paid and never saw it completed. 

I stroll around the exterior of the Opera House, through the nearby Royal Botanical Gardens, past Government House and the Conservatorium of Music. 

Over to The Rocks neighborhood and more harbour views. 

Sydney has exceptionally clean & pretty seagulls, plus long-billed ibis wandering about.

I also spot numerous little jellyfish around one of the piers.

          After a long and somewhat chaotic day we have dinner at the hotel and later relax with wine & cheese Marjorie brings back from a nice shopping area across the street. In the news: A number of Australian legislators have been removed from office because they are “dual citizens” (without even knowing it due to their parents’ background!), thereby violating a constitutional dictate against “foreigners” in Parliament. This “citizenship crisis” dominates the news while we’re here, even bringing down the governing coalition and leading to headlines like “Malcolm [the PM] in the Muddle”  and “Fools on the Hill.”

Wed, 11/8: “Talking dog and hourly beheadings” 

         A comfy, quiet sleep. In the news: It’s been “One Year of Trump” since the election L; croc racing as part of the Melbourne Cup frivolity. I go out for an early stroll to nearby Hyde Park. Mostly cloudy and a bit cool at first, it becomes sunny later and up to the mid-70s. The park has a Central Park feel, people walking & jogging. Lots of gulls and ibis. 

Pretty ANZAC War Memorial. A sculpture of artillery shells, pretty views of St. Mary’s Cathedral. 

Back to join Marjorie for the good hotel buffet breakfast, Aussie coffee choices include “long black” (double shot of espresso over hot water) and “flat white” (steamed milk into espresso). 

Pretty neighborhood views. We pick up a few items from the souvenir shop, but no didgeridoo for Marjorie.

  

        Off to a “free” walking tour (pay at the end what you think it’s worth) with Justine, a young women who founded this enterprise. It starts a few blocks from our hotel by Town Hall and St. Andrew’s Cathedral, amply decorated by purple jacaranda trees found thruout the city. We learn about the city’s history, quirks, and favorite spots. 

It’s so beautiful in every direction: a mix of old and new buildings, colorful banners, flowers and flowering trees. 

Into the Queen Victoria Building with a beautiful upscale arcade topped by an ornate clock that presents beheadings of Charles I on the hour. Outside is a wishing well with Queen Victoria’s dog delivering a recorded message. Thru an extensive underground mall to Hyde Park. An ornate fountain by St. Mary’s Cathedral. Sydney Tower looming above. Past the barracks for convicts sent from England to populate the colony and the Rum Hospital (now the Mint), built for convicts in exchange for a monopoly on rum importation to the colony. 

A stop at Il Porcellino, a pig sculpture to rub for good luck recreating the one we’ve seen in Florence. We’re told of “Coat of Arms Pizza”: kangaroo meat on one side, emu on the other reflecting the Australian Coat of Arms. Into an alleyway containing a “bird memorial” of hanging cages and path pavers with bird names below. 

Another stop where we walk above a model of the city under the transparent floor, including paper koi fish among the buildings. Colorful banners that urge “Vote Yes” on a postal survey about legalizing same-sex marriage [the tally later: 62% yes]. Finishing at the harbour, Justine points out a row of very expensive high-rise apartments along the Opera House side referred to as “toast” by locals because of their ugliness; and the residents have actually complained about “noise” from the Opera House! This has been a very enjoyable and quirky tour; we’re happy to give a nice tip.

  

        After some relaxation and light lunch from Coles supermarket across from the hotel, a short walk to Paddy’s Market. Oh my, so many stalls, Sydney’s answer to Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. 

I leave Marjorie to poke around (but she finds it rather repetitive and disappointing) and continue on to the Darling Harbour area. 

Past a Chinese garden and large park to more beautiful harbour views, including an amusement park. 

Back to the hotel, Tonga vs. Samoa rugby on the TV. A Korean dinner nearby. It’s cooling off quite a bit, jackets donned to go back to see the harbour at night. The Museum of Contemporary Art is open late tonight. 

Pretty lights on the Opera House. We “top up” our Opal cards for tomorrow.

Back at the hotel we see students busy in upper-floor windows at the Greenwich Management College across the street. “The Pitch,” a TV show about advertising, is discussing ad campaigns for “Golden Gaytime” ice cream, which Marjorie had just bought. 

Thurs., 11/9: ♫Surf City, here we come!♫ 

          Another beautiful AM for my early stroll to Central Station (the quite impressive main train station). In the news: Pope Francis is sad to see worshipers using mobile phones during Mass; a big women’s cricket match between Australia & England. It’s time to get out of the city. The original plan was a ferry to Watson Bay, but none are running until later. So we choose Manly, a beach & surfing area. A 3-decker ferry for a lovely 30-minute trip.

 

Lots of ferries crisscrossing the harbour. 

Past cliffs and the ocean entrance. 

Thru the town’s commercial area to a coffee break by the beautiful beach and blue water. 

Lots of surfers in the water, tho the waves aren’t exactly “surf’s up” size. From the demographics, Marjorie thinks this is a retirement center for old surfer dudes. Signs to “Protect Our Water Dragons” (we’ll see some Eastern Water Dragons later in the trip). Many schoolchildren arrive; we’re told it’s a “surf day.” 

We pass a school in town with many children in their uniforms; no surf day for them today. 

  Strolling thru town, colorful building murals. A stop into “Chemist Warehouse: Australia’s Cheapest Chemist” for sunscreen. Signs all over remind Aussies to protect against the sun; Australia has the highest incidence of melanoma in the world.

          Into St. Matthew’s Anglican “Church of the Open Door,” an organist playing. 

Past Manly Oval, used for cricket & football (soccer, that is), and pretty gardens. Lawn bowling by ladies in white; they’re very good at it. 

After a bit of a hunt we find Café Ora, “The Best Café in Sydney,” for lunch of tacos & burrito salad, sharing a table with a local young woman.

          Into Sea Life Sanctuary: sharks, rays, turtles, fish, etc. A shark tour thru a tunnel surrounded by water; we learn how sharks are unfairly maligned and actually beneficial. Sadly for us, today’s shark dives are all booked J. A feeding for cute Little Penguins, at 12-15” the smallest; here we learn the dangers of plastic debris for sea critters. This site will close in January with everything moved to other sites. 

Over to an art gallery/museum (free, like many museums here). Especially striking are 40 paintings and ghost ship sculpture based on “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” 

A shared brownie and flat white on the ferry back. A perfect day, gorgeous weather and lots of interesting stuff! After all this sunny/warm weather, it’ll be hard to go back to “real” November back home.

          Back at the hotel we wander the maze of buildings near us  ̶  inside/outside, up/down  ̶  looking for dinner. We settle on Grill’d, called by Conde Nast “The Best Restaurant Chain in Asia/Pacific.” We enjoy Moroccan Lamb and Bird & Brie burgers. And we’re given bottle caps to vote on their donations to charity. Another Coles stop to get supplies for tomorrow’s excursion. In the news: A person protesting the Manus Island situation climbed the Opera House. Not sure of all the details, but Manus Island seems a refugee camp housing some 400 men seeking asylum. But it’s all tangled up in politics among Australia, New Zealand, and Papua New Guinea. Power and water have been cut off, but the men are refusing to leave the island.

Fri., 11/10: “’Roos, koalas, and rain forests”

          Today’s our “Small-Group Blue Mountains Day Trip with River Cruise” excursion. A short walk to the pickup-up point at YHA Central Station, a backpacking hostel that itself has a very busy schedule listed in the lobby. Our group numbers 20, including people from Kentucky, Iowa, and the UK; waiting for the van I chat with someone from Borneo of all places, but he’s on a different tour. We meet guide Mark and head off over the Harbour Bridge with lots of traffic, thru a very long tunnel (common here), heading west of the city. Many eucalyptus trees along the road. Thru sprawling metropolitan suburban areas. 

          First stop: Featherdale Wildlife Park. Many native animals here, nearly all of them rescues: lots of birds, including ibis (referred to by Justine as “Australia’s most hated bird,” apparently quite a nuisance), pelicans, kangaroos of various sizes, koala bears, dingoes, wallabies, snakes, bats, spiders, a water dragon. Fun fact: Australia has the largest wild camel population in the world! 

                 Some little ‘roos eat out of our hands. 

We’re most taken, of course, with the many koalas, including babies clinging to their mothers’ backs. Marjorie’s disappointed she can’t hold a koala, and it costs quite a bit extra to have a photo with one.

          As we drive toward Blue Mountains Nat’l Park and World Heritage Site, Mark talks about history: the Dutch & English, Capt. Cook, convicts. Australian aboriginals are considered the oldest living culture in the world, at some 40,000 years. Heading up to about 1000 meters elevation, Mark points out the combination of sandstone from ancient oceans and volcanic basalt. 

A stop at Lincoln Rock overlooking Jamison Valley. Another Wow! A beautiful sunny day, impressive views of mountains & cliffs. Very dry terrain & vegetation. Thru a village with gum trees, wild white cockatoos along the road. Mark takes us to more of his preferred uncrowded viewpoints. 

Cahill’s Lookout above Megalong Valley, lots of beautiful rhododendron and bottle plants. Echo Point views of Three Sisters rock formation and the cableway & railway at Scenic World below. 

A stop at Katoomba for lunch at Pomegranate Café. Pretty flowers and the fancy Carrington Hotel nearby.

Now to Scenic World. First on the railway, at 52° the steepest passenger train in the world.

           “Star Wars” music and Whoops! from the riders as we dip down toward the valley. The valley itself seems like some prehistoric “Lost World”: a lush rain forest with monster ferns and eucalyptus trees. 

Exhibits about the coal mines that operated here. A cable car ride back to the top.

          Back on the van, Mark is stretching for more stories. A stop at the Olympic Park (from 2000); facilities here get a lot of use. 

Mark gives each of us a little koala souvenir before we leave him for our fantaSea cruise on the Parramatta River back to Sydney. Past pretty houses and boats, a lineup of tents for “glamping” (glamour camping). 

 Under the Harbour Bridge for a classic view of Opera House and harbour. Worn out (again), stuff from Coles for a picnic in the hotel.

Sat., 11/11: “Museums and memories” 

          Looks like another lovely day, sunny and 70s. It’s a “free day,” nothing specific planned. But there’s still plenty interesting to do, more fascinating museums to “Feed Your Inner Culture Vulture” as some banners say. It’s Remembrance Day here, like our Veteran’s Day, so it seems appropriate to start with the ANZAK War Memorial in Hyde Park. WWI ended 99 years ago, on the 11^th hour of the 11^th day of the 11^th month.

Past construction barriers comprised of “word finds”  ̶  someone has circled “gay” and added a “Yes” sticker. We watch flags being lowered to half-mast. This is a lovely contemplative spot: reflecting pool in front, pretty interior. 

          To the nearby Australian Museum, oldest museum in Australia (190 years). We get a “concession” (senior) discount. A nicely composed sampling of the displays in “200 Treasures.” A beautiful and interesting “First Australians” exhibit, including the sad history of “Stolen Generations” (children taken from their parents) and subsequent “The Apology” in 2008. 

“100 People Who Shaped Australia”: people from all walks of life who reveal “moods or attitudes considered Australian,” e.g. The Underdogs, Resilient, Spirited. Plus animals, insects, minerals. 

“Surviving Australia” exhibit of such dangers as spiders, crocodiles, even magpies.To the 4^th floor for shared coffee & muffin and another “Wow, what a view!” moment: a panorama of reflecting pools, Hyde Park, St. Mary’s Cathedral, and city skyline.

On to St. Mary’s, the large English-style Gothic “mother church” for Australian Catholics. 

          Nearby is the Hyde Park Barracks, a World Heritage Australian Convict Site (1 of 11). The building had a 3-stage evolution. First to house convicts, brought to reduce prison overpopulation in England and to populate and build the colony (the building itself was built by convicts). Second as an immigrant depot and asylum for women, initially from poorhouses to be servants and wives. Third to house courts and government offices. Outside is a sculpture commemorating the Irish famine.

          Back to the hotel to relax and rest our tootsies. Then back to Grill’d for mid-PM refreshment; Marjorie enjoys the Baa Baa Burger. Refreshed, we stroll back to the Queen Victoria Arcade. Christmas decorations in full bloom, and Santa’s here for photos! No tacky shops, and there’s even a Metropolitan Museum of Art store. Marjorie finds a ‘roo for her miniature collection in one of the shops. 

Down to the harbour, I climb lots of steps to get up to a partial Harbour Bridge walk for some photos (you can walk it for free or pay lots to climb to the top). We’re in The Rocks area, very busy on a Saturday night. Bridal parties and photos. A big cruise ship departs. 

We join Part II of the “I’m Free” walking tours, “The Rocks: Convicts, Murders, and Mysteries,” with guide Josh (a recent history grad). Our group numbers about 50, including folks from England & Brazil. 

A pretty view at sunset from the other side of the bridge. We hear more about the European settlements here. And poor Capt. Bligh: after his Bounty misfortune he became Governor here only to be deposed by the “Rum Rebellion;” as you might imagine, rum was quite popular here, even the unofficial currency. 

Before heading back to the hotel we enjoy a last view of the harbour from the train platform: Remembrance Day red poppies projected onto the Opera House, lighted ferris wheel visible under the bridge. After our ride Marjorie gives away leftover Opal cards to a young man in the station. Another Coles picnic to finish the day.

Sun., 11/12: “Keep Left Unless Overtaking” 

          Sports news: In a “spiteful clash” Kangaroos beat Lebanon in World Cup rugby qualifier; Socceroos nil-all with Honduras in World Cup soccer qualifier. Another nice day, mix of clouds & sun. A taxi to the airport to pick up our Europcar red Kia Rio. Car is comfy, I remember which side to drive on (and it seems you have to walk on the left here, too). But I have the same problem as my Ireland driving: turning on the wipers when I want to signal! Marjorie finds it amusing, tho she worries that I come too close to things along the left side. We’re headed south to meet up with Peter in Canberra (pronounced Can-bra, Peter advised). Our Frommer’s book doesn’t even mention Canberra, but Peter assured there’s interesting stuff. Light traffic and motorways make for an easy drive. Somewhat scrubby arid countryside. Past a number of wineries, sheep & cattle. Rest areas to “Stop Revive Survive.” Deer crossing signs replaced here with kangaroo and wombat crossings; sadly, we see some ‘roos that didn’t make it. 

          We find our way to ANU and University House where Peter arranged lodging. Pretty campus grounds. A lovely courtyard with lily pad pond and koi fish. 

And there’s a busy Modern Vintage Markets event in the courtyard: “mid-Century” clothes and other items, classic cars, music & dancing. A fun welcome for us. We play phone tag with Peter. His plans have had to change, so instead of showing us around he’ll be leaving early for home tomorrow. But we’ll have some time together with local friends. A somewhat lengthy search for lunch, finally finding a bakery in Ainsle for tasty meat pies. 

A drive thru the city to the Australian War Memorial. A long view back to the Parliament, chairs still set up from yesterday’s Remembrance Day event. A beautiful place: many wreaths lining a pool, little red poppies line columns of names along each side (and children recorded reading the names). 

Interior with figures from different services painted on the walls, stained-glass windows on each side. 

          We’re able to find our way back to campus and settle into our room. Room furniture designed by Fred Ward (no relation, that I know). A beautiful view of the grounds from our balcony. And a chance to use a computer here to clear out our e-mails. 

 

  Mid-PM out for a nice visit with Peter and friends Helen and Hardy. H & H have a lovely home that could be described as “suburban farming,” with pretty gardens and chickens that provide for a small egg operation. We enjoy meeting them, and wish we had more time. Peter has been busy packing up his stuff. We’re happy that we can help by taking 2 of his bags back with us (we’ll bill him for any orthopedic expenses from lugging our 2 bags plus his 2 ☺). He’s very sorry that he can’t show us around as he’d planned, but gives us suggestions of his favorites for tomorrow. 

Back to our hotel. I go out for a stroll at sunset and encounter rabbits . . . more rabbits . . . and more rabbits! I can see 15-20 at a time! Thankfully, unlike Monty Python’s “Holy Grail” killer rabbits these seem peaceful.

Mon., 11/13: “Australian TV stars” 

          No rabbit nightmares during the night.  Cloudy and cool. I take an early stroll: ducks, magpies, rabbits (tho not as many as last night), 2 hot-air balloons overhead. Breakfast at The Fellows Café at University House. 

Some more city driving to start, over to the Parliament area with many impressive buildings and lovely parkland. 

       A short hike up to Parliament House. A friendly security guard is excited that the Governor General is coming this AM to swear in new Senators (needed because of the “dual citizenship” issue); I’ll bet Peter has never seen this. 

First a look into the House of Representatives, 

then up into the Senate Gallery (but no photos  ̶  I have to check my camera, but later I get a photo from the internet). None of the pomp and circumstance we thought might happen, so we don’t stick around long.

Walking back down we pass a protest encampment below the Old Parliament House; maybe about Manus Island? 

         Into the National Portrait Gallery. Australia is one of only 5 countries with such a site. It offers a very interesting mix: historical and contemporary, famous and ordinary, many different modes and styles of portraiture. And a nice café for a coffee & cake break. 

Next door is the High Court with a beautiful multi-tiered lobby. We look into the main court, which has been busy lately with the citizenship constitutional issue. 

On to the National Gallery, highlighted by an exhibit of David Hockney’s beautiful work in a variety of media (a Hockney exhibit will begin at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC later in November  ̶  but we see it here for free!). 

The gallery also includes international work, from Monet & Matisse to Pollock & Warhol. And interesting spaces for display. 

Finally, even the National Library has some impressive exhibits, highlighted by Peter Dombrovskis’ incredible nature photography. This building also overlooks the lake and a tall water spout, the Capt. Cook Memorial Jet. A break here for lunch in the café.  

Canberra may not be much on the tourism radar, but it’s well worth a visit! The museums, in particular, are fabulous (and free!). Thanks to Peter for his guidance. After a cloudy start to the day it turned sunny. A little light rain as we hit the road back to Sydney about 2:00, but then sunny most of the way. An easy drive back to return the car and check into our ibis Budget Sydney Airport. It offers a panoramic view of the airport and nearby Krispy Kreme, McDonald’s. and Kentucky Fried Chicken (which seems quite numerous here). TV news has coverage of today’s Senate ceremony, and look . . . there we are in the gallery!

Tues., 11/14: “Back to yesterday: 3 countries, 4 bags!” 

           We’re not done yet. Off to Tahiti for end-of-the-trip decompression  ̶  no big agenda, just relax & enjoy whatever we find there. And we’ll get there yesterday! Up early to catch the shuttle for our 7:55am flight to Auckland. The Sydney airport has pretty Christmas lights. Views of the sunrise and Sydney skyline from the terminal. 

But what day is it? Even the airport doesn’t seem to know: some screens say Monday the 13^th, others Tuesday the 14^th. Coffee & bakery to get us started. An airport shop has Jumpys, bags of crispy kangaroo-shaped snacks that bring back fond memories from our Bavaria trip; but they wouldn’t travel well. Views of cliffs along the coast after takeoff. We resume our Airline Diet with a big breakfast: cheese omelet, sausage, bacon, home fries, beans, roll, yogurt! Views of the rugged New Zealand coast and some dark clouds coming in. Flight time 2:50, about on time a little after 1:00. 

A switch to Air Tahiti Nui. We’re given little white tiare flowers (a symbol of the islands) when boarding, lovely aqua color scheme on the plane. Dinner and a pretty sunset above the clouds. 4:25 flight time, arrival 10:45pm yesterday (11/13) after crossing the Date Line. Temp about 80°. Handed information as we enter the airport about avoiding dengue fever. Our friendly host Beni meets us for a short drive into Papeete and Fare Suisse Tahiti guesthouse.

Tues., 11/14: “Tuesday again?” 

          Bonjour & maeva to Tahiti. One of the Windward Islands, Tahiti is the largest island in population of French Polynesia, a “collectivity” of France consisting of five archipelagoes and 118 islands, with Papeete the capital. French is the dominant language, also Tahitian, tho English is widely spoken and understood. Up early, sunny and already quite warm. A nice view from the terrace. Surrounded by palms & flowers, 

lots of “free range” roosters (as we heard during the night) & chickens wandering about, plus the guesthouse cat.

 

A walk past pretty Eglise Evangelique (the largest Protestant church in French Polynesia) down to a beautiful park that runs along the waterfront from opposite us to the center of town. Many colorful outrigger canoes lined up on shore; racing them is the Tahiti national sport. Colorful ships in the harbor. Such beautiful flowers & trees. Mountains behind me and across the water on Moorea. Wow! 

Back to breakfast on the terrace. We learn our 8-room guesthouse hosts, Beni and wife Therese, are involved in developing a replica of the Capt. Bligh’s launch, Beni has been involved in some anniversary events surrounding the mutiny. 

We walk into town, more beautiful views and past many pearl stores. 

To the big Marché Municipale, a colorful (and thankfully under cover from the sun) market: fish & meat, fruits & veggies, shells, pearls, hats, clothes, etc. I find a lovely hand-made magnet for my collection, posing with the friendly local artist. Marjorie finds colorful sarongs for gifts, exclaiming: “You can’t go wrong with a sarong unless it’s the sarong size.” (groan!). 

While Marjorie explores the market I head to the Hotel de Ville, a replica of Queen Pomare’s mansion, and see other impressive government buildings.

It’s gotten very warm (probably mid-80s & humid), tho a nice breeze helps. We head into the Cathédrale de l’Immaculatée Conception, appropriately described as “cool, quiet, and comforting.” 

Colorful murals on buildings, Christmas shops in full swing.

Some supermarket foraging at Champion near our guesthouse. 

After some relaxing, I head back to the waterfront park. So beautiful in the lowering sun: a colorful container ship, deep blue water, cute bird signs at playgrounds, flowering trees. 

 

Briefly thru a small pearl museum. 

Back out again after 5:00, when Marjorie finds the temps more agreeable. Groups exercising in the park. Things look different with different lighting. And Wow! what a sunset! 

Dinner at recommended Le Retro overlooking the waterfront. Restaurants are expensive here, so this is a semi-splurge. Good food, tasty local Hinano beer, a Café Gourmand of 4 dessert samples. Past lighted dock areas holding colorful fish. Back at the guesthouse for a chat with a couple just returned from Bora Bora; they were yachting with a friend, but had lots of rain.

Wed., 11/15: “Adventures in paradise” 

          Another early AM rooster serenade. An early walk to the market. Past what seems a war memorial topped by a rooster! Not some weird cult worshiping roosters, rather we learn later the rooster is a symbol of France. Busy traffic. We’ve learned that, like Vietnam, you just have to be assertive at crosswalks; cars will often flash lights to show they’re stopping. It’s quite warm already by the time we’re back for breakfast at 7. 

I go back to the park again. OMG! So beautiful, can’t stop taking photos! Lots of pretty birds with white splashes on their wings; haven’t figured out what they are. 

 

We check out at 10 but stick around waiting for our island tour at 1. There’s a locked room for our bags, plus a bathroom (even a shower!) to use as we wait. Everyone at the guesthouse has been so accommodating and helpful. I pick up a light lunch from Champion grocery to eat on the terrace while the resident cat naps nearby. We meet and chat with Therese, learning that Beni has a brother in Las Vegas. We’re intrigued by an interaction between a man staying at the guesthouse and a young local woman; turns out he’s buying pearls from her for resale in his business. He seems to be a regular here.

          The van driven by a young woman shows up for our PM Circle Island Tour. And then the adventure begins! The guesthouse is set on a quite steep & narrow road. Backing out the van somehow winds up so cock-eyed that one rear wheel is some 6” up in the air, giving no traction! Try as we might we can’t get the wheel back down. The owner comes with another van, but he can’t figure it out and she doesn’t have the license to drive the bigger van he brought. Then a couple of beefy locals come along and with the aid of a large rock placed under the offending wheel: Success! So our tour begins 40 minutes late. Accompanying us are 3 Hungarians.

         We’re on the only road around the main island (120 km); one dirt road crosses the island. Past the airport and down the west coast, the richest area with fancy houses up in the hills. But we can also see the sorts of places where ordinary people live. Some interesting graffiti, including Sponge Bob Square Pants. Along the west coast you can see surf breaking on an offshore reef, white sand beaches (tho we’re told there are few public beaches). A stop at Marae Arahurahu, a traditional temple and archeological site. Mango & breadfruit trees and other vegetation set off by dark volcanic rocks. And wandering chickens even here. 

On to Grotte de Mara’a: water breaking on the reef offshore, a tall waterfall and small cave. 

Continuing along, views of local housing, lovely panoramas of waterfalls and misty rain the in the hills above. Past a gorgeous golf club (and me without my clubs!), flower and coconut plantations; the latter have steel bands part way up the tree trunks to protect from rats. 

To Vaipahi for a short walk thru gardens to a waterfall. 

The lushness keeps making me think of TV show “Lost.” We have a snack of breadfruit chips and pineapple. Past “little” Tahiti island, an offshoot of the main island. 

Now up the east coast, less populated, black instead of white sand, and hills come down closer to the water. A very winding road. A stop at a dramatic black sand beach with a couple of blowholes making noise. Marjorie takes our very 1^st “selfie;” it’s not memorable. Past surfing areas and an army base, located here for proximity to respond to possible damage from cyclones or tsunamis; there’s no reef along here to provide protection. 

After being somewhat cloudy, sunshine breaks out as we near Pointe Venus. In 1769 Capt. Cook observed that century’s 2^nd rare “transit of Venus,” as it partially eclipsed the sun. There’s a lighthouse, monuments to missionaries and the crew of the Bounty. 

Continuing on below the highest point on the island (2240 meters) to a sunset benefit of our delayed start. Papeete & Moorea spread out below the setting sun at Belvedere de Tahara’a. A great finish to the tour and to our trip! We’re dropped off below the guesthouse; we all agree she should not try taking the van up the hill again. 

A wait on the terrace, joined by a couple of tiny lizards, for Beni’s shuttle to the airport. A long line waiting to check in. Another long line waiting for security to even open! Little to eat in the airport. The worst airport ever! Oh well, the hassles of getting home are the price you pay for traveling.

Thurs., 11/16:

          Flight departs about midnight (11/15). 8 hours flying time to LAX. An early snack, breakfast later. About ½-hour late landing in smoggy LA at 10:30am. LAX is confusing, with few signs to guide us. Have to pick up our checked bags here, thru passport control, then drop off the bags for our next flight. We schlep to another terminal. Thru security again; a walk-thru scanner malfunctions, so Marjorie has to endure a thorough patdown from a not very nice TSA worker. Sandwiches and coffee before our 2:30pm flight. Fruit & cheese with wine on the plane. The pilot warns of bumpy air along the way, especially around NYC, but things are generally OK for our slightly early 10:45pm landing at JFK. We think of son Matt, who is leaving about now for Paris to perform with chamber orchestra Argento. Such a globe-trotting family! It feels like November: 40s & damp. Shuttle to pick up our car, around the corner to the Days Inn Jamaica (Queens, that is) to sleep overnight before driving home the next morning. A sunny drive to Albany, a stop to drop off Peter’s bags. Greeted at home by a violin serenade!  ̶  Albany Symphony Orchestra musician Funda, a regular guest, is staying here and practicing for a concert tomorrow.

        

  A wonderful trip! So many Wows! Gorgeous harbour views, lush vegetation, fabulous museums, interesting cultures and animals. We hit the weather jackpot. Accommodations were comfortable and well-located. Not very fancy with our food  ̶  some international variety, but it seems we mostly followed an Airline and Supermarket Diet. This was our longest trip, both days and miles. It didn’t feel “too long,” but we don’t anticipate more trips of this magnitude. Our 8 flights (altogether about 45 hours in the air!) were smooth and on time or very close to it. A few glitches, annoyances, unanticipated expenses? No worries!