Cruising the Seine

Cruisin’ on the Seine:

Paris to Normandy

June 2017

  

        We do love our river cruises! Add some very substantial discounts and it didn’t take much pondering to sign up for Viking River Cruise’s “Paris and the Heart of Normandy.” This is my 4^th Viking trip, Marjorie’s 5^th. M in particular is ready for some cruisin’ after lots of creative hard work getting ready for a joint art show with her mentor Betty, plus organizing the Colonie Art League Summer Art Camp. Not so much pre-trip studying to do this time: We spent 3 nights in Paris at the end of a mostly Switzerland trip in 2000, so don’t need to see everything. Plus Viking provides good tours and on-your-own info at stops along the way.

Saturday-Sunday, June 3-4: ♫Suzanne takes you down to her place near the river♫

          A lovely day for our uneventful drive to JFK, providing a view of progress on the new Tappan Zee Bridge and beautiful panorama of the city skyline from Whitestone Br. We settle into our usual parking arrangement at Airpark JFK, a quick shuttle ride to the airport. Flight’s not until 11:25pm; Marjorie appreciated plenty of time for packing and last minute details. Tho Viking arranged flights with Delta, they’re operated by Air France. This causes momentary flashbacks of disquieting memories of missed connections and lost luggage by AF for some choir members during our European tour in 2007. But no problems this time. [One mishap on our part: Marjorie doesn’t have her phone, probably left in the car. We’ll have to find a phone to call the parking place for pickup when we return.] Smoothly thru check-in and security, we settle in to share a panini . . . and watch TV news of 2 “terror incidents” in London! There will be such reminders periodically during the trip. We splurged a bit to upgrade to Premium Economy for our flights. This proves quite comfortable, Marjorie getting a pretty good amount of sleep (something Russ seldom manages on flights). Dinner with wine early on, a snack before landing at Charles de Gaulle a little early just before noon. A mix of clouds and sun as we come in over pretty green fields surrounding clusters of houses. Comfy temp of 23°C (73°F).

          After snaking around in a very long line for border police we meet up with a Viking rep and other tour members who’ve arrived. There are many shuttle options here, from “Le Bus” to a number of “Magical” Disneyland-Paris shuttles (Marjorie nixes any side trip without the grandsons). We board our pretty blue “Suzanne” bus (bringing to mind Leonard Cohen’s lovely song) for a 40-minute drive to our ship, docked in Le Pecq, a western suburb of Paris. A light buffet lunch (there’s no missing a meal with VRC!) and some time to start meeting fellow passengers, including a couple from Skaneateles near Syracuse, and explore the ship. 

         We’ll be cruisin’ on Longship Rolf (pictured above at one of our stops): built in 2016, 95 staterooms for up to 190 “guests,” 

3 decks plus sundeck, large observation lounge, library. As on prior trips we’re in a “standard” stateroom (#112) (sorry, no balcony or veranda) on the lowest deck (the “bilge” as we call it); a half-picture window offers an interesting view right at water level. 

          But we can’t just loll around. A bus takes us up the hill for a walking tour of St. Germaine en Laye. A pretty upscale town with large park and long promenade overlooking a small vineyard, river below. Skyline of La Defense (the business district outside of Paris) in the distance, Eiffel Tower peeking up from behind a hill.  

The birthplace of Louis XIV, the “Sun King”  ̶  a castle and beautiful courtyard, pretty church across the way. Rows of beautiful trees. Pony rides for kids. A fine start, getting Russ’ shutter finger in operational mode!

          Back to the ship for a safety drill and welcome orientation to meet Program Director Lionel and Hotel Manager Bea. Colorful champagne (red, white, and blue!). Musical accompaniment (thruout the trip) by pianist/singer David. We meet other staff during the trip. Many are from Eastern European countries Bulgaria, Rumania, etc., raising sociological questions about recruitment streams.

Our 1^st dinner, with 3-course options (plus other choices always available, like prime rib eye steak) and plentiful wine. We make new friends whose company we enjoy thruout the trip: Bridgitte & Robert from Wichita Falls TX, Joanne from Alexandria & daughter Maija from Boston. The group is mostly seniors, though there are some younger family members, including a few young adult grandchildren. As usual, we’re kept up to date with Viking Daily newsletter containing schedules, weather forecasts, and local info, supplemented by Lionel’s pre-dinner “Port Talks.” These also include Chef Adam’s menu highlights and Maitre d’ Alexandra’s special wines for each dinner (we opt for the included house wines). There’s also a daily US Times of brief news & sports items. TV in the cabin has a few satellite stations (e.g., BBC, CNN), movies, and the complete “Downton Abbey” (of which VRC was a major supporter); we enjoy watching early episodes knowing how things will eventually turn out. Computers available for keeping up with e-mail, Facebook, etc. [Note: These trip journals usually include references to ongoing “current events,” but we are looking for a (mostly) “Trump-free” week, so there won’t be so much of that this time.]

Monday, June 5: “Zipping through (and above) Paris”

         

         As usual, Russ is up very early, views of pretty reflections on the river as the sun rises, strolling the sun deck with an herb garden, shuffle board, 2 small putting greens. Various breakfast options: some things like pancakes can be ordered in the restaurant, also buffets there and in the Lounge, plus some pastries & cookies thruout the day at coffee stations. A gorgeous sunny morning, barges, rowing shells, swans on the river. Temps up to about 80 today. 

Off we go for the included Paris tour. Following the guidance of a list we saw of “10 things not to do in Paris,” Russ doesn’t wear shorts or white sneakers. Thru pretty towns, past the tall buildings of La Defense. Traffic is pretty quiet due to Pentacost holiday. 

 The bus and local guide takes us past major highlights of Paris: Champs-Elysee, Arc de Triomphe, Tuleries Garden & Louvre with its glass pyramid entrance, Place de la Concorde with Egyptian obelisk and ornate fountains, Palais Garnier opera house, Grand Palais, and Hotel de Ville. 

Not an in-depth tour, hard to keep track of everything, photos from the bus are a challenge (and they forgot to squeegee the windows!), but we’ve done much of this on our own. We do stop at Notre Dame Cathedral, with its Gothic spires and striking facade. Interior side chapels are especially impressive. 

 















 

Noon Mass begins, so maybe this covers us for yesterday. Marjorie lights a candle. Ice cream treats as we stroll on our own, passing street musicians on a bridge and (another sign of the times) 4 soldiers cradling their weapons. 

Pretty windows and shops.

          Back on the bus, guide Emelie serenades us with a nice rendition of the French anthem, La Marseillaise. We go from the Right Bank to the Left, passing the Latin Quarter, Hotel des Invalides complex, and other sights, parking near the Eiffel Tower. 

Emelie provides details about the Tower and there are good photo ops. Then a whirring sound overhead  ̶  a zip line from the middle of the Tower for ½-mile to the far end of a park! It’s free for those who won a lottery connected to the French Open tennis going on now. We can also see large “Paris ’21” banners for Paris’ bid to host the 2021 Summer Olympics.

          Some buffet food back at the ship to tide us over until the Welcome Dinner hosted by Bea, Captain Cedric, Chef Adam, and Maitre d’ Alexandra. We go thru locks during dinner (altogether there’s 25 meters difference for our time on the river), then spend time in the evening watching the countryside glide by. Large clumps of mistletoe in the trees. It stays quite light until almost 10. Marjorie stays up late chatting on the deck with Bridgitte.

         

Tuesday, June 6: “Kissing the Lollipop”

          Today is the anniversary of D-Day, presaging our visits to Normandy beaches later (and we learn Normandy is one of 13 French provinces). We arrive and dock at Vernon before breakfast. Another ship pulls in, blocking the view from our cabin windows! And we’re sandwiched between Swiss & German ships, so we’ll have to cross thru each other’s ships to get to shore. European river cruises have become increasingly popular, tho we don’t think we’re seeing as many ships on this route as we have on others. A somewhat rainy forecast, high about 60, but sunny first thing. Today we’re headed to Giverny and Claude Monet’s beautiful gardens and stone farmhouse. 

Off the ship to meet guide Simone in a bright flowered jacket. We have to remember to bring our listening “devices,” then touch (“kiss”) her Viking “lollipop” sign to activate. Just a 10-minute drive, but it’s so pretty getting there: a village that just screams “French” with stone buildings, flowers, etc.

     

Mostly cloudy here, a bit brisk, some breaks of sun. Busy with many groups, plus school groups later (we see many end-of-the-year field trips during the week). The lush gardens don’t disappoint, beautiful floral views everywhere. First around the famous lily pond and Japanese bridge that inspired many of Monet’s masterpieces. He designed the gardens himself, and created the water garden by diverting the Epte River. 

 

Here are 2 examples of Monet's paintings in the garden.

          Then into the pretty house, restored and furnished as when he lived here, including his collection of Japanese engravings. 

A walk thru the quaint village of stone houses and flowers to Les Eglise Sainte Radegonde and Monet’s tomb. The cemetery has unusual pretty porcelain flowers and plaques decorating the gravesites; we’re told these traditional decorations have become less common because of theft. 

We sit for a bit of sun by fragrant lavender, but rain that becomes hard (tho short-lived) sends everyone into a museum entrance and gift shop. Heading back to the ship we’re amused to watch a herd of brown-and-white Norman cows scurry toward tree cover from another hard rain shower. 

          Sunny again when we reach the ship, greeted by an accordion player and apple cider as we step aboard. A lunch of Normandy specialties is followed by a painting class for Marjorie and walking tour of Vernon with guide Ange for Russ. It’s quite breezy with some showers, but the walkers are able to duck in and out amid nice breaks of sun. Vernon was the site of a major battle for British troops. The pretty town has many half-timbered buildings, wine and cheese shops. 

City hall with pretty entry area  and stained glass window. 

Lovely views inside an old fortress, and Collegiale Notre-Dame church with especially beautiful windows; many churches we visit had to replace windows that were bombed out during WWII. During one rain shower Russ ducks into all-purpose store MonoPrix to find tonic water to battle cramps in legs and feet.

          Before dinner we attend a cocktail party for members of the Explorer Society, folks who’ve taken other VRC cruises. A toast with aquavit, a “Scandinavian distilled beverage,” with pretty souvenir glasses. More on an unwelcome theme: a news report of a man attacking police with a hammer outside Notre Dame in Paris. We settle now into a regular dinner table with Bridgitte & Robert and two other couples from New Hampshire. We’re served by an especially friendly waiter, Milen, who delights in showing us some card tricks. Milen adds good fun to our meals, tho his looks and Bulgarian accent remind Russ of “Despicable Me.” After dinner we try (unsuccessfully) to help someone launch a kite from the sun deck on a very cool, brisk evening. Marjorie stays up top to chat; Russ opts for warmth below.

Wednesday, June 7: “Buttresses and gargoyles and Saints, oh my!” 

          We’ve been cruising from Vernon since the wee hours, but you can hardly tell, tho some folks have had to deal with some motion sickness. Russ manages to “sleep in” until 7:30! A mix of sun & clouds today, quite breezy but warm in the sun. Breakfast with couples from Oregon and New Zealand. The river is very loopy, pretty views of old buildings, chalky white cliffs, swans along the shore. Lionel gives info programs on the Seine and Joan of Arc. 11:00 docking at Rouen. 

We walk into the very pedestrian city. Into a colorful chocolatier, the marzipan reminds us of Russ’ stepfather Bill Jessop. 

Rouen is known as the “City of a Hundred Spires,” the most magnificent rising from Notre Dame Cathedral, a favorite subject of Monet. A beautiful ornate exterior and again beautiful side chapels. 

And here's an example of Monet's take on the Cathedral.

        After lunch guide Pascale begins our walking tour: “This city is worth to be visited.” In the Cathedral she notes how different windows reflect different centuries. Along the sides are life-size figures of saints and prophets transplanted from the exterior as part of the cleaning and restoration. There’s a dramatic difference between areas that have been cleaned and those that have not. 

We walk along medieval streets with half-timbered buildings, pretty facades and shops. 

Into the Church of Saint Maclou, one of the best examples of “flamboyant” Gothic style, and its Aitre cemetery in an interior courtyard that is being turned into gallery spaces. 

Past the Gothic Hall of Justice to the Gros Horloge 16^th-century astronomical clock with ornate gold face. 

Then to Eglise Sainte-Jeanne d’Arc, a “masterpiece of modern minimalism” with beautiful interior at Old Market Square where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake for heresy in 1431 at the age of 19. Some shopping at MonoPrix and other places before dinner and another Milen card trick.

          Out again after dinner, calmer and warmer now, to the Cathédrale de lumiêres (Cathedral of Light), a free sound and light show, composed this year of 2 themes: William the Conqueror and Jeanne d’Arc. Spectacular colorful images are projected onto the façade of the Cathedrale Notre-Dame. Quite dramatic, even bloody at times, highlighted by a full moon rising to the side. The finale covers the façade of the church with photos of people exclaiming “Je m’appelle Jeanne” (“My name is Joan”). 

 

Wow! Good we came tonight, tomorrow’s show cancelled due to technical difficulties (plus rain). Still some light after 10, pretty lights on a building across from the ship as we walk back.

Thursday, June 8: “War and remembrance”

          Another nice AM: hazy sun, calmer and warmer today. We meet guide Marie Helen, board the bus for the 2-hour drive mostly on motorway to the Normandy coast. We’re headed for the US beaches and cemetery, others opted for Commonwealth (British & Canadian) sites. Should be a big day for Robert, who’s a Civil War reenactor specializing in field artillery. Sculptures of Norman cows in a roundabout. Pretty countryside: flax, corn, rape seed, potatoes, red poppies. A factory that’s a big producer of toilet paper. Marie Helen hands out a map of the coast and landing areas, recounts the history leading up to WWII and some D-Day details. For “Operation Overlord” on June 6, 1944, more than 160,000 American, British, and Canadian troops landed along a 50-mile stretch of coast across 5 beaches. Later she movingly talks of life here under the Nazi occupation. First to Caen and drives by Juno and Gold beaches (as designated for the Allied invasion). 

 

Then a stop at Arromanches and the Debarkment D-Day Museum, including a movie about the Mulberry Harbor artificial port constructed in the British Channel for the invasion. Quite a project! A short walk to a nice lunch, we sit with a couple from Branson MO. The town is now heavily populated by souvenir shops and restaurants.

          We continue on from Juno to Omaha thru pretty villages, a stop at German gun batteries that could send shells 12 miles out into the ocean! 

Time to walk around the American Cemetery and Memorial at Omaha Beach. The 172.5 acres contain 9,387 graves (marked by rows of white crosses) of military dead, most of whom lost their lives in the D-Day landings and ensuing operations; by comparison, Arlington National Cemetery covers 624 acres with more than 400,000 graves. 

The memorial consists of a semicircular colonnade with a loggia at each end containing large maps and narratives of the military operations; at the center is a bronze statue, “Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves.” A young woman leads a simple and moving ceremony for our group: the national anthem, followed by taps, ending with a number of veterans coming forward. Each of us given a rose to place among the markers. 

The lovely grounds overlook the pretty beach below where so many died. So many wars seem to have been set in such beautiful settings! A stop to walk on Omaha Beach, now populated by dune buggies with sails, riders on horseback, colorful country flags, and Les Braves sculpture commemorating the 60^th anniversary of D-Day.

          Back on the bus, Marie Helen passes around tasty chouquette cookies; Lionel says we can’t understand how good they are until a second one. We pass a recently built bridge that opens to allow tall ships thru for an annual festival. Welcomed back onboard with face towels and smoothies, and a swan on our bed made by our maid Fimka from a bath towel. A sweet ending to a very reflective day.

Friday, June 9: “Good morning, Meester Russ” 

           Russ is up early as usual; the young woman at reception says “You’re always the 1^st one,” and a cheery “Good morning, Meester Russ” from Milen. A quiet day mostly cruising. A beautiful AM mix of sun and clouds, very green with white cliffs along the shore, pretty houses and churches, swans, lovely reflections and wave patterns from occasional passing barges. Quite idyllic! 

          After breakfast Milen arranges a galley tour for us with Chef Adam. Very busy finishing with breakfast and getting ready for lunch. Lionel presents a program on (sad to say) disembarkation details. Chef gives a cooking demo. 

Russ practices on the putting green, Marjorie does watercolors in the Lounge. She attracts the interest of a fellow passenger, who later joins her for tips after buying some brushes and watercolors in the town. After lunch docking at Les Andelys. A lovely warm (70s) PM. 

Here are two of Marjorie's on-board creations.

          We join guide Angelique for a trek up to Richard the Lionheart’s Château Gaillard, strategically perched high overlooking the town and our ship on a very picturesque bend in the river. Spectacular views well worth the climb! Interesting tidbits about the town: a factory is the world leader in car headlights, parachute inventor born here, Arthur Conan Doyle’s villa. Angelique also recounts complicated stories of royal succession. 

Back down into the pretty town, more beautiful stone buildings, flowers, pretty shops, Collegiale Notre-Dame church. Marjorie finds some lovely scarves. A stroll along the river toward pretty Saint-Jacques Hospital, now a retirement home; Lionel claims he’ll retire here. 

Back onboard for mid-PM tea with (of course!) French pastries. A wonderful Farewell Dinner: appetizers include lobster and shrimp bisque, entrees tournedos Rossini or carmelized sea scallops, and crepes suzette/crème brulee combo for dessert. Lounging on deck as the sun sets. In today’s news: the UK election has resulted in a “hung Parliament,” fired FBI Director James Comey’s Congressional testimony is creating a buzz. 

Saturday, June 10: “Matt takes Manhattan” 

          Yet another nice AM, pretty sunrise. But that’s overshadowed by Big News on our e-mail from son Matt. A couple of years ago he was sought out by Julliard to be Percussion Dept. Coordinator. Then recently Manhattan School of Music asked him to take the same position with them, but full-time instead of part-time with benefits and much higher salary. Julliard made a counter-offer. When we left for the trip Matt was agonizing over the decision. Now he’s made the choice: MSM. Whew! A weight off all our minds.

But back to us. Docked now at Mantes-la-Jolie, today will be our only 2 optional tours: Versailles and Paris by Night. An early 8am start, meeting guide Karina for a 45-minute drive to Château de Versailles and its sprawling gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We’re surprised to find that it’s not out in the countryside, instead bordered now by a big wealthy suburb of Paris. We arrive when it opens to beat the biggest crowds. Still something of a mob scene, but Karina says “this is not much people.” 

Waiting to enter we admire the bright gold paint along fences and roofs. Begun as a small hunting lodge, Versailles was enlarged by 3 resident kings, most famously the “Sun King” Louis XIV. As a write-up says, we “marvel at the extravagance and excess of French royalty.” Thru the state apartments of the king, the Hercules Drawing Room with magnificent painted ceiling, the Hall of Mirrors glittering corridor of chandeliers and glass (where the Treaty of Versailles was signed to end WW I), the queen’s apartments, the chamber of Marie Antoinette, and others too numerous to keep track of. The tour ends with a room full of portraits of generals, to emphasize in “revolutionary” sentiment that this is a “historic” not “royal” museum. 

Out to the gardens, amid warnings about pickpockets, strolling soldiers cradling weapons. The spectacular gardens spread out in every direction, many sculptures and beautiful fountains. The fountains come alive, accompanied by music, shortly after we enter the gardens. Lots of people waiting in line when we leave. 

Back to the ship for lunch. We skip a PM tour to sail with the ship to Pecq where we began a week ago. A head start on packing, computing tips for staff (VCR provides tips on tipping), other departure preparations. A beautiful cloudless PM in the low 80s. Thru a sailboat regatta, more pretty views along the river. Past a long line of barges and houseboats, double- and triple-parked, many sizes and colors. A stretch with particularly dense clusters of mistletoe. As we enjoy our “Final Farewell Dinner,” nearby fishermen land a huge catfish!

We did a “Rome by Night” tour at the end of our 1998 Italy trip. Now we’ll conclude this trip to “experience the ‘City of Light’ in its full illuminated glory.” We join guide Natasha for another drive thru the pretty suburbs, long lighted tunnels (to get us in the mood until the sun sets?). It’s again a bit of challenge to see everything and take photos from the bus. But enjoyable and impressive nonetheless: along “fashion avenues” with pretty shops and decorated windows, the Champs-Élysées, the many Parisian squares and bridges, Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame, etc. Many people out on bridges and river promenades. 

A stop at the lighted Eiffel Tower, which then begins to sparkle! A zip-liner whooping overhead brings a cheer from the crowd. Back to our ship at midnight, full moon overhead. A fine ending to a wonderful week!

Sunday, June 11: “Au revoir, y’all!”

Another beautiful AM, glassy reflections on the river. Rowing shells pass by. The ship’s crew is plenty busy, offloading our group and prepping for the next. As instructed we have our bags out at 8:30 for our 9:30 departure for the airport. Texan Robert gives a fitting final call as he leaves the ship: “Au revoir, y’all!” ˗ until we meet again. VRC reps meet us at the airport to guide us to check-in. Our Premium Economy seats warrant Sky Priority treatment by Air France. Thru security into the gate area, lots of shops and we find a sought-after soccer-themed scarf for grandson William to go with a classic striped French t-shirt for Miles. Hooray, shopping completed! Even the airport has tastes of French culture. A free museum near our gate highlights Paris cultural institutions, currently some pieces from Le Musee National Picasso-Paris. It’s next to Café Cubiste and across from Cartier . . . and Starbucks nearby. Happily, all flights are “A l’heure,” 1:40 for us. Some champagne after we’re in the air, wine with lunch; it’ll be hard to break these French habits! On-time to JFK about 4:00. Pretty easy thru passport control and baggage claim. Marjorie is able to “rely on the kindness of strangers” to borrow a phone to call Airpark for pickup.

Sunny and hot (90s). We’re ready to head home about 5:00. Should be pretty easy to get out of NYC on a Sunday evening, home by 8-8:30. Wrong! Torturous traffic jams getting away from JFK, to and over the Whitestone Br, then an accident on the George Washington Br backs things up before we can get on the Thruway north. Finally home about 10:30.

It was a wonderful trip. As always, Viking River Cruises handled every detail so well. Good-natured, friendly, and helpful staff at all levels. Excellent food (we’re scared to step on scales at home!). Enjoyable and informative guides. Fine companions and new friends. Terrific weather. C’est magnifique!