Switzerland & Paris

Switzerland & Paris

June/July 2000

 Tues., June 27:

          Hazy, humid as we drive to JFK.  Marjorie takes 1^st  first Hedgehog shot with very pleasant British Airways ticket agent.  (toy Hedgehog is a “friend” of M’s coworker Liz at WMHT, enjoys having his picture taken as he travels around the world.  We think WMHT should do a “Travels with Hedgehog” documentary.  He’s a good travel companion: flexible, no complaints, fits inside a purse.)  McDonald’s lunch in the airport.  Some Swiss francs at airport exchange, tho we’ve learned to use credit card or ATM to get better rates ($1= 1.65 Swiss F, 6.85 French F).  Interior of the plane is very warm; they announce cooling not working properly but hope to be better when we got going (which it is).  A remote on the seat handle for a video screen on the seat back, allowing lots of viewing choices. [We’re still pretty new to transatlantic flights, doesn’t take much to excite us.]  Have to delay takeoff to not reach London too early; noise abatement rules prohibit landings before 6am.  Good service & food: dinner, breakfast, extra drinks.

Wed., June 28:

          Sunrise over Ireland.  Into London Heathrow a little ahead of schedule at 6:15am.  Somewhat torturous shuttle bus & hike from one terminal to another.  Another breakfast, then on time into Geneva at 10:20.  Partly sunny, low 60s.  Short train to Gare Cornavin (main station in center of Geneva).  Across the street to Hotel les Arcades, our room overlooking the Gare.  Marjorie curls up on the bed right away for a quick nap.  Some rain while resting, then OK most of the day until light rain as we walk back to hotel later.  I get our 1^st-class Europasses validated (for use any 5 days in 2 months; we got these via the WMHT Auction), success w/ Credit Suisse ATM.

          We head out, noting lots of watches in store windows on a walk to Rhone River.  Lots of swans (which seem very common over here) around an island w/ Rousseau statue.  Pretty walk along the river, Jet d’Eau visible along lakeshore, flowers & Helvetia and Geneva statues in Jardin Anglais.

Into the old city: the Cathedral, nearby church used by John Calvin, Place du Bourg-de-Four.  Dominique at the hotel was disappointed that weather might cancel school parades today, but along comes a big parade: many groups of kids in various costumes (especially colorful hats), giant insect characters, men on stilts, uniformed bands, flame eaters, etc.  

Later we see the end of the parade at Place Neuve combining Reformation monument with a large amusement park, plus a number of large walk-around chess games.  

 Into St. Pierre Cathedral, an interesting combination of exterior architectural styles and impressive interior.  In contrast, the nearby Calvin Auditory, where John Calvin preached, church is very spare inside.

          Too tired to figure out anything else, so we eat Italian at restaurant near the hotel recommended by Frommer’s (Italian restaurants very common thruout Switzerland).  A nice evening, later sunset about 9:30.  Geneva is quite interesting  ̶  I take more pictures than expected ̶  but we’re both looking for a more relaxed setting.

Thurs., June 29:

          Much hornhonking during the night outside the Gare.  Sunny AM, clear & cool.  Breakfast at hotel (as in others) of breads, croissants, ham, cheese, cereal, strong coffee.  First use of our Europasses for 8:30 train to Bern.  All trains very smooth & quiet, & always on time.  [And Marjorie does love riding trains!]  Lake Geneva one side, mostly farm country the other: vineyards, corn (much healthier than at home), cows & sheep, pretty houses & barns, an occasional castle or chateau.  Flowers everywhere: every house seems to have a garden, every window a flower box.  Glad we took an earlier train, so about 3 hours to wander Bern after storing luggage in the Bahnhof.   

Along old streets like Spittalgasse & Marktgasse.  Many colorful fountains (more like statues w/ water coming out) from 1500s, ranging from Samson to an ogre eating babies (!).  Interesting streets: trolleys, flags hung across, flowers in windows (seems like there must be some national rule about this), nice stores to window-shop. 

 

 We see the famous clock, tho figures not as active as expected. 

Just over the river to Barengraben, a pit containing famous Bern bears since 1400s (not these particular bears, we presume).  One bear lying on his back waits for people to throw food in his mouth; if you missed, well, that was just too much work for him.  Views back of city & pretty rooftops. 

Views of the Cathedral (beautiful figures outside and windows), Federal Palace (a “treasured symbol” of Swiss democracy), Casino.   

We get a snack plus sandwich for the train to Luzern, a good break for our feet & my shutter finger.  More wooded now, higher mountains.  Every town seems to have steeple with clock.  Turning cloudier.

          A short walk along the river from Bahnhof to Hotel Pension Roesli, on Pfistergasse.  Nice room, overlooking a quiet street with small shops just off the river.  Gutsch funicular not operating.  Percussionist son Matt asked us to shop for a set of good Swiss bells, but fellow at a nearby music store says we’re not likely to find non-touristy bells without stealing one from a cow.  Across Spreuerbrucke (Mills Bridge) near the hotel.  “Dance of Death” paintings in gables commemorate plague in the city.  Rushing rapids on the river thru here.

Strolling thru old squares Weinmarkt, Hirschenplatz w/ pretty painted scenes on buildings.  Some ice cream bars to hold us until dinner.  Stadtkeller folklore show is full, so dinner outside (which we do a lot) along the river near Kapellbrucke (Chapel Bridge).  Very good dinner, cheesy Mexican serenade bya street musician, a pretty evening to be out.  After dinner Marjorie has some bread to feed swans & ducks.  A walked to the lake & along the river.  Suddenly much traffic, hornhonking, flagwaving  ̶  Italy has won their Euro 2000 soccer semifinal!  Jay Leno on NBC in Europe to finish the day.

 Fri., June 30: 

A gorgeous day, relaxing since we saw much of the city yesterday.  Breakfast in a pretty room in companion hotel down the street.  Over Kapellbrucke, especially pretty in AM sun, flowers all along outside.  Restored from 1993 fire, most of the paintings on gables are photos of originals.  To Lion Monument, a dying lion carved into cliff commemorating death of Swiss guards for Marie Antoinette.  A quiet, contemplative setting.  

Nice stores to browse thru, some buying.  Hofkirche (church) closed for interior work, but pretty courtyard.  Down to the lake to sit a while along Kurplatz.  Mama swan with 5 “ugly ducklings,” nearby Kursaal (casino) & expensive hotels.  Walk back thru city. 

Lunch of cheese fondue & beer, plus salad w/ mayo dressing used here, alongside the river near hotel.  Very filling; would be too much for later evening.  Lots of stage construction in squares & beer trucks for Altstadtfest tomorrow.  Some interesting conveyances: skatescooters everywhere, especially for kids, tiny 1 or 2 person electric cars.    

        

          Relaxation in the room a bit, then funicular to Hotel Gutsch (in fancy old chateau): high overview of city, old city wall & towers, lake & mountains.  Into Jesuit church along the river, we’re surprised by beautiful interior of very light walls, murals on ceiling, decorations on walls, pretty altar & organ in rear.  

More walking along the river, swans & pretty ducks, some diving beneath the surface.  Out for a light meal, but first M finds a Swiss watch she’d wanted, very reasonable at ½ price.  A little parade of musicians in a couple of different uniforms followed by some chefs.  A “pub” dinner along the river, where there’d been much soccer cheering last night.  A group of young men with an interesting approach to a table of women: one asks each to kiss & leave a lip impression on his t-shirt. Others bodysurfing the river rapids.

Sat., July 1:

          Sunny AM.  Thru a market along the river: flowers, fruits & veggies, bakery.  Coffee in Bahnhof, bakery & juice for the 8:30 train to Interlaken.  Views of mountains (1^st we’ve seen with snow on top) & lakes, a number of stops.  Lots of youthful backpacking groups.  Keeps gaining elevation, green glacial runoff water.  Into Interlaken Ost at 10:30, across platform for 3-minute train to West station.  Short walk to Hotel Blume (on Jungfraustrasse), which includes a Mexican restaurant.  It’s in a pedestrian zone w/ shops, window boxes, pennants strung overhead.  

A stroll along Hoheweg (main street), pretty hotels & flowers, nice shops, even a Japanese garden.  Colorful wooden cow “statues” on several roofs.  Light lunch outside of shared cheese/fruit & cold meat plates.  Over to nearby Kursaal, pretty flowers & fountain. 

Up Harder Klum funicular with friendly British couple (seem to be a lot of Brits here, plus Japanese w/ their hats; also a lot of tourists traveling w/ their dogs).  Very high overlooking Interlaken & lakes, Jungfrau looming beyond.  A bit hazy, but still spectacular.  Very warm today, even at higher elevations.  Back to hotel, a change to shorts & t-shirt. 

Good, light Italian dinner at Pizpaz (Frommer recommended).  No Tellfreilichtspiele (an open-air historical pageant about William Tell) while we’re here.  Sorry to miss it, Marjorie considers this a major failure of the tour guide.  We seem to be a bit early in the season, there’s more entertainment later in the summer, including open-air concerts & cinema.   

But we head to the Swiss Folklore Show at the casino on a pretty evening.  While waiting we listen to a band outside casino area, which then escorts a wedding party to a hotel.  Folklore show corny but fun: much yodeling, cow bells, audience participation, including Marjorie on washboard.  We talk after to Tony about cowbells they used.  Have to be special ordered, says he’ll send us an e-mail.  We buy a wooden rhythm instrument made by a member of the troupe which we think Matt will find interesting.  After some searching we find a place for ice cream cones; harder to find here than gellati in Italy.

Sun., July 2:

          Another nice AM.  Dressed a bit warmer to go up into the mountains, but turns out we don’t need jackets (and glad we didn’t bother to pack sweaters).  Breakfast in the hotel, a walk to Ost bahnhof (past “Last Sex Shop Before the Jungfrau” and other shops) to take BOB (Bernese-Oberland-Bahn) to Lauterbrunnen, along milky rushing stream of glacial runoff, a wispy waterfall down a massive cliff.  Then BLM (Bergbahn Lauterbrunnen-Murren) funicular/train combo to Murren.  At one stop serenaded by bells on cows nearby.  Lots of hikers, impressive tall/straight pines. 

 Finally, a large gondola (holds 100) to Schilthorn & Piz Gloria, featured in James Bond “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”  Unbelievable weather, spectacular 360° views from 10,000 feet including Jungfrau, Eiger, Monch . . . words fail.  On the way the back stops in Murren & Lauterbrunnen.  Not very quaint, mostly hotels & souvenir shops, but what a setting!  Very warm back in Interlaken, ice cream helps.  Hang gliders landing in Hohematte (central “green”), over a dozen circling above the mountain behind town.  Marjorie suggests a hang-gliding accident in Switzerland would be a romantic way to go  ̶  I’ll have to keep an eye on her.  Back to the hotel to relax. 

          Marjorie goes to Mass (in German).  I watch Italy/France Euro 2000 soccer final, but just pregame until 8.  Our best dinner so far outside by Hohematte at Restaurant Des Alpes (where we had lunch yesterday): roast smoked pork, wienerschnitzel, dessert sampler.  Back to the hotel, soccer game now in the 2^nd half  The game is on about 10 channels in German, French, Italian, Spanish, but no English.  Alternating cheers & groans from the bar below.  We suppose Matt is immersed in this in Spoleto, where he’s performing w/ the opera festival.  France wins in overtime in an incredible finish.  Marjorie kept up by late night carousing; I’m out in about 30 seconds  ̶  but I’m up early every AM.

Mon., July 3:

         AM clouds & a sprinkle, light rain on & off until sunnier late in the day.  We hit the weather jackpot yesterday, but mountains are pretty with lower clouds, flowers seem highlighted, cooler feels nice.  A delightful day on Lake Thun (am Thunersee) is ahead.  Short train ride to Thun.  Many swans in the river.  Elevated walkway along a pretty medieval street w/ flags overhead.  But many stores not open Monday (another failure of the tour guide!). 

A somewhat circuitous route to the Schloss (castle) Thun, since didn’t notice steps from main street.  Lots of stair-climbing in the castle.  Turrets offer nice view of city & lake, a bat exhibit, prison cells.  Upper rooms pretty bare, work being done in main hall.  Museum rooms below w/ pottery exhibit (a local specialty).  Marjorie covets some miniature pottery from 1905.  A vampire show will be here in late July.  A chat with a worker who fills us in on some of details about the castle, including features that aren’t understood.   

         The rest of our travel today is on lake steamers.  Over to the boat docks, where we enjoy the view including swans and ducks in light rain, and use a “McClean” WC for 1.5 F.

          There’s one classic paddlewheeler on the lake (which our hotel hostess, Claudia, who reminds us of our friend Sarah, said was saved from destruction by the Swiss people), but we’re on newer, bigger boats holding about 1000 passengers.  Our Europasses entitle us to sit in 1^st class on the second deck: very elegant, set up like a restaurant, tho 2^nd class is very nice, too.  Like trains, these are right on schedule, very quick on/off at pretty landings w/ lots of flowers. 

Off at Oberhofen, some coffee & pastry out of the coolness & rain while waiting for the castle to open.  Because of the weather, we decide to do a quick castle tour to catch the next boat.  Beautiful, elegant interior (not “severe” like Thun).  Views of pretty grounds from inside, but too rainy to stroll.  We catch the next boat for 1½  hour return to Interlaken.  Very relaxing, sipping wine while watching scenery glide by: churches, castles, mountains & low clouds.  A road carved into the mountains, extending out precariously from the cliff.  Marjorie pronounces the day “a boatload of fun”  ̶  her favorite day of the trip. 

 

Back to Des Alpes for dinner, good food and nice variety.  Tonight includes grilled lamb w/ housegemachte rosli (home-made hash-brown potatoes) & fera (a local fish).  Evening thunderstorm w/ some sizable hail.

Tues., July 4:

          It’s the 4^th of July  ̶  seems strange to be in a foreign country on our national holiday.  A rainy wakeup & noisy trash collectors (just like home).  Flea market setting up on the street outside hotel.  9:40 train to Zweisimmen, cloudy w/ nice breaks of sun & blue sky.  Marjorie won’t let me sing patriotic songs on the train.  We change to Golden Pass “panoramic” train (windows curve up into part of roof) thru mountains to Montreux.  Misty mountain views, a tennis stadium at Gstaad.  Our first really full train, but only 5 cars.  Coffee & pastries on the train.  

Spectacular view of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) coming down from mountains. Arrive Montreux a little after 12, nicer weather.  To Hotel Elite, a block off lakeside promenade.  We settle in, then along the lake about 2 km toward Chillon Castle.  A beautiful “Mediterranean” setting: lush flowers & trees, lake & mountains, vineyards going up from the lake, fancy hotels & other buildings. 

Stop halfway for good sandwich/salad outside by the lake.  A young man comes over to ask how to spell “thousand” for a letter to his girlfriend in Denver.  We guess (correctly) that he wants to send “1000 kisses.”  He stops over later to chat: he’s Belgian, studying hotel management, met his girlfriend in Miami last July 4^th.

          On to Chillon.  Beautiful setting on the shore of the lake, which has become quite rough, waves splashing onto the walkway.  Very interesting castle, particularly well-designed brochure to guide us thru.   

 We see the pillar where Byron’s “prisoner of Chillon” was chained for 4 years.  Encounter what we think is our 1^st all-American bus tour, talking about 4^th of July.  Bus back to hotel (using our Europass) to relax.  I head to Gare to recheck train schedule for tomorrow.  I slowly tell the agent “I don’t speak French,” to which he replies (equally slowly), “I don’t speak French, either” (don’t know if he’s just teasing me). 

Out later to stroll along the lake.  Preparations underway for big jazz festival starting Friday w/ lots of famous performers.  Pretty evening, lowering sun on mountains across the lake.  There are many Muslim women w/ children, the more restrictive clothing of the mothers contrasting with the freedom of the children on the playgrounds.  Don’t know if they are residents or a tour group.  Pizza & beer outside by the lake as sun sets.  Our 1^st chocolate bar (!) for dessert.  A perfect evening, but no fireworks. 

Wed., July 5:

         

Up very early to catch 5:30 train to Lausanne (changing in Vevey to faster train).  Trash seems to be just piled on sidewalks for pickup here.  Train along the lake with many vineyards terraced up.  Coffee & pastry in Gare Lausanne, then 7:14 TGV to Paris Gare de Lyon: more modern, sleek than other trains.  Nice AM mix of clouds & sun, thru rolling agricultural countryside w/ many fields of sunflowers.  After ½ hour we cross into France, a quick passport check on train (but nobody stamps our passports, much to Marjorie’s disappointment).  Mostly cloudy now, flatter farmlands. 

 Into Paris at 11:15, 5 minutes late (worst of the trip!).  Partly sunny & cool, then mostly cloudy.  While waiting to ask where the bureau du change is located (to change Swiss F to French F), someone turns in a lost packet full of passports, tickets, credit cards, etc.  We hope people find what they’ve lost.  Twisty taxi ride thru lots of traffic (but no hornhonking!; this is not NYC) & 1-way streets to Grand Hotel des Balcons (from Frommer’s), in the heart of the Left Bank, on a narrow side street, a pretty lobby.  Small but nice, very quiet room in back overlooking small interior courtyard w/ apartments across.  No feather beds like other hotels.  And particularly challenging shower, handheld w/ no shower curtain.  A tiny lift, like Italy  ̶  poussez the door to sortie.

          Lunch at a wine bar in a square near hotel.  A walk to & along the Seine to Notre Dame.  Rather dark interior, but beautiful Pieta and windows.  Marjorie lights a candle.  To Pont Neuf, lined w/ gargoyles.  Caught by rain while walking across the bridge; we have our small umbrellas, but it’s quite windy so we get a bit wet. 

Rain lets up as we head for the Louvre.  A massive complex around the Pei pyramid; you can see the collections must be immense.  But very long lines outside the pyramid, so we wander into Jardin du Carrousel, impressive monument & 2 ferris wheels in view.  Line outside the pyramid now gone, but long lines below at ticket booths.  We decide we’re not so much “museum people”  ̶  Paris itself is what interests us.  And we can see some sculpture courtyards from the walkway to the  Metro, exhibits along the tracks in one station.  Metro back to our hotel, using un carnet, packet of 10 tickets for discounted 58F.  We ride the Metro a lot, using 30 tickets.  Seems pretty much like NYC  ̶  we expected something more impressive  ̶  and rather stuffy air (plus Europeans don’t seem real big on deodorant), but it’s efficient to get around.  Marjorie, who goes all over NYC, doesn’t want to try the Metro on her own, but I get the hang of it pretty quickly.  A map from Matt has been excellent, both for streets and Metro. 

          Relaxation in the hotel.  I go to check out Jardin du Luxemourg near the hotel (described by Frommer as “most beloved” by Parisians).  Beautiful formal gardens, sculptures, fountains, flowers, plus orchards, tennis courts, children’s activities.  Includes a Palais, now home to French Senate.  Also very “muscular” pigeons.  Dinner at Au Petit Prince (from the Saint-Exupery novel; we later learn this is the 100^th anniversary of his birth, lots of books in bookstores), recommended by Frommer.  Marvelous 3-course dinner, including an interesting chicken w/ vanilla main course & “floating island” dessert (meringue on vanilla pudding).  We start an after-dinner stroll into Jardin du Luxembourg, but gendarme come along blowing a whistle to ferme.  Back to the hotel.  A very long day!

Thurs., July 6:

          Breakfast buffet at hotel: the usual plus eggs, sausage, bacon, hash browns.  Sunny AM.  Becomes warmer by afternoon, but OK  ̶  August must be hard to take here.  Workers washing streets as we leave the hotel using bright green brooms.  A big Metro day for us to cover the main tourist spots.  Lots of music in the Metro (sounds like NYC): percussionists & string group in stations, guitar & accordion on trains.  Worker putting up new posters by tracks, gets on with us, ladder & backpack full of posters.  Many “hip-hop” type posters, but not sure what they refer to.  

First stop the Tour Eiffel, pretty views from the park to the east and from Palais across the river.  Long lines to go up, but, as Frommer says, what’s a view of Paris without the Eiffel Tower?  Working on apparent concert venues here, reviewing stands set up along Champs Elysees & in Place de la Concorde for Bastille Day (7/14). 

To Arc de Triomphe, incredible traffic from 12 streets converging.  We’re very glad not to be driving in Paris!  An impressive monument w/ many sculptures.  Walking along Champs Elysees not as romantic as expected; it seems a wide 5^th Ave with much traffic & noise.  Shared drink on a sidewalk bench (OK, it was Coke Light from McDonald’s, but it’s still Paris!).   

Past Grand Palais & a view of golden-domed Eglise du Dome across the Seine.  We dodge traffic to get to Place de la Concorde, obelisk & impressive fountains.  To Les Halles Forum (a Parisian shopping mall, but don’t see any intriguing shops), shared sandwich on a bench in a park.  To nearby Centre Pompidou, but (contrary to Frommer’s) unable to get to the roof  for views without paying admission to exhibits.  I figure (incorrectly, as it turns out) we’ll get views tomorrow, so back to hotel to relax. 

          A stroll thru Jardin du Luxembourg, many people and activities, before heading off for dinner.  Thru Jardin du Palais Royal on the way to Restaurant Maceo, north of the Louvre.  This was recommended by a son of Marjorie’s favorite catering partner, who’s been studying the culinary arts in Paris.  A fabulous “dining experience”!  3 courses, each an elegant treat: M has vegetarian ravioli, I beef fillet, plus mousse & cheese plate for dessert.  Very friendly service, tho we had no reservation & looked more ragged than their later clientele (we arrived about 7 to beat the usual 8-9 crowd).  A bit of a splurge compared to our usual travel fare, but 3 courses for 2 plus wine & service totals 560F (about $80)  ̶  similar quality would have cost much more in Albany.  This was a real treat!  

          Thunder & showers as we leave the restaurant, but it clears a bit w/ pretty clouds in the evening sky.  Thru Jardin des Tuileries to Place de la Concorde, starting our own “Illuminated Paris” tour.  We ride the ferris wheel (a Marjorie fave), operator w/ a twinkle in his eye lets us have a car to ourselves if we “remember him after” (we do tip him).  Pretty views of Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, etc. at dusk.  Metro to Ile de la Cite to walk along the Seine & view Notre Dame at night, jagged lightning behind it as we near.  Back to the hotel at 11, just as more thunder & rain.  Marjorie says I got her to cover a lot out of ground today with my “just one more” promises.

Fri., July 7: 

          Much thunder & rain as we awaken.  CNN reports extreme heat (over 100/110) in SE Europe.  After hotel breakfast, fresh/cooler AM for a Left Bank stroll.  To St. Sulpice, but “splendid” square obscured by vendor setups (for a fair coming up?) & scaffolding covers the steeple.  A pretty interior, frescoes (including Delacroix) & distinctive statue of Mary recessed behind the altar.  They seem to be setting up for a funeral.  To a marche (market) on Rue du Buci: fruit, meat, flowers in shops & onto sidewalks.  We explore a grocery store with everything from American-style cereal to a large display of wine organized by region/type.  Some goodies (sauces, chocolate, crackers) to take home for ourselves & friends.  Fruit & pastry from street shops for a picnic in our hotel.

Metro to Montmartre.  Cloudy at the hotel, becomes steady rain & then a downpour.  Misty views up to Basilica du Sacre-Coeur.  We ride the funicular up, but no views of Paris today.  Inside there’s much restoration work.  Down to the crypt, several pretty chapels, thunder rumbling outside.  Many people in church, not so much prayerful as staying out of the rain.  To main square  ̶  not a good day for artisans hawking their wares.  Coffee & sweets (creme brulee, lemon tart) in an outdoor cafe under tarps.  Still too wet for wandering the winding streets, so we head back to the hotel.  Funicular turnstiles not working, no gendarme in view, everyone ducks under.  Onto the Metro, a cute little dog in a bag on woman’s lap.  And a young couple gazing at each other longingly, a lingering kiss  ̶  Ah, Paris!  We’re wet but undismayed; it’s good we did so much yesterday.

          Very cool evening.  To Restaurant Orestias near the hotel, another Frommer’s suggestion.  A neighborhood Greek place, we’re welcomed like old friends, an animated card game in the rear.  2 courses with wine & coffee for 114F (about $15!).  And coffee costs more than wine!  Restaurants everywhere thruout this area & lots of bookstores.  Places on this little street all have “barkers” to bring in clientele.  Marjorie spots a man across the street planting what turns out to be pumpkin vines in 2^nd-story window boxes.  Back to hotel.  French version of “Who Wants to be a Millionaire,” plus lots of news commentary on the flap over Germany beating S. Africa to host the 2006 World Cup.  Other news about Wimbledon, Tour de France, release of the new Harry Potter book, British PM’s teenage son arrested for being “drunk and incapable.”  Lots of traffic jams today.  Tarts in our room from Parisian fast-food place Pomme de Pain.  Surprisingly good.

Sat., July 8:

  We’re ready to return home.  Paris is fascinating, but pretty hectic at the end of a trip.  Cool, sunny AM.  Hotel breakfast w/ St. Louis couple at the end of their 8-week bike trip.  Out to Musee d’ Orsay, old train station w/ beautiful interior & wonderful collection of 19^th C painting, sculpture, furniture, etc.: Whistler’s Mother, Rodin, Monet, Manet, Renoir, VanGogh.  A nice way to finish with a little culture.  Too rushed to try to also get to Tour Montparnasse for a Paris view, but there’s a view from the museum across the Seine to Sacre-Coeur.  

   After cheery “bon voyage” from jolly hotel clerk, rides on Metro & RER train to DeGaulle Aeroport.  Didn’t see any place in the Metro to buy RER tickets to the airport & nobody to help at airport, so we duck under turnstiles when get there.  Such outlaws!  Grilled sandwiches (popular here) & iced tea for lunch.  Paris is surprisingly economical, both hotels & restaurants, even prices at the airport are reasonable.  A couple of soldiers with machine guns seem to be looking for someone, but no incidents.  British Airways flight Paris to London Heathrow, where the terminal seems like a mega-shopping mall.  Flight’s apparently overbooked, and I notice that the people ahead of us look to have the same seats as us.  They’re traveling w/ young children, so we get “bumped up” to Business Class, upstairs.  We observed these seats longingly on the flight over: seats fold down w/ footrest to make a little “nest.”  A toiletries packet, pampering service: steak, lobster salad, mousse, wine, snacks in galley, sandwich & cheesecake before landing.  What a treat!  We try not to let our giddiness show.  Marjorie seems disappointed that flight time is “only” 7 hours.  Into JFK ahead of schedule, about 9pm.  An immigration annoyance when our declaration isn’t properly stamped at first, have to retrace steps to clear it up.  Pick up the car, lots of stops along the way to clear the head, home about 2am.  A nice surprise to hear Matt’s voice from Italy, “Ciao, familia,” on our answering machine.  Another nice surprise: the teenager next door, who’d been watering the garden, also mowed the lawn.  Barb says they’re teaching Colin about “community service.”

Everything went very smoothly, or, as the Swiss might say, like clockwork.  I used the internet a lot for planning & arrangements: hotels roomy & central location, tho challenging showers again in Europe; train/boat schedules right on the mark.  Friendly people, both Swiss & Parisians.  No real language problems, even as the dominant language switched from French to German and back to French again, tho multilingual international traveler that I am, caught myself saying si and gracie a couple of times.  Learned a few things as we went along, such as “first floor” refers to the first above street level.  The usual interesting TV mix: programs in French, German, & Italian, some in English (CNN everywhere, plus some BBC, MTV).  Weather generally cooperative; some rain, but with the exception of afternoon on Montmartre it didn’t really get in the way.  We learned in Ireland to work around rain, and keep little pocket umbrellas handy.  Did well with the food budget; not as expensive as we thought it might be, especially with plat du jour or tagestellar menus.  Packing was efficient, just enough toothpaste & deodorant at the end.  Marjorie’s habit of carrying a water bottle kept us from being too thirsty on warm days.
A wonderful trip, lots of good memories.  And now, “we’ll always have Paris.”