Rambling with Russ: Montreal . . . and More Canadian Jaunts

Montreal Weekend

September 2010

About a year ago I spotted an item about a Chinese lantern festival in the Botanical Garden of Montreal. We hadn’t been to Montreal in 30-some years (I've included here some previous photos, including "Man and His World" left from Expo 67).

Thought this trip would be fun to do with friends Steve & Jill, who’ve made several trips to the city. Steve & I were unable to coordinate class schedules, so put it aside for another time. But this year’s festival begins the weekend of Rosh Hashanah: no classes on Friday, so we could have a long weekend. I didn’t plan to write up such a short trip, but things began to seem journal-worthy (and I did bring my voice recorder), so here we go.

Friday, Sept. 10:

Up early, leaving our usual contingent of visiting Albany Symphony musicians (4 for this weekend) to watch over the house, down to pick up Steve & Jill. Jill’s rarin’ to use her new camera (I’ll offer some tips over the weekend). Packed up and headed up the Northway a little after 7. We look for breakfast outside L George, arriving at a “Monster Breakfast Buffet” just as it’s opening (feeling a bit unseemly to appear so eager). A good spread to keep us nourished as we drive up the Northway w/ pretty Adirondack views on a nice AM. Not much traffic at the border, tho we’re asked what seem odd questions: do you all know each other?, do you know anybody in Canada?, how long have you been planning the trip?, where are you staying? Guess we give the right answers, continue our drive north. Whoa!! Cut off by a lane-changing Quebecois driver, I send an international greeting (via my horn, that is). We’ve made good time, following MapQuest directions into the city and to our hotel about 11:30: Holiday Inn Midtown, on Rue Sherbrooke not far from McGill University (daughter-in-law Anthea’s alma mater). Nice accommodations, excellent location; Albany Symphony housing person Marie-Claude, from Montreal, gave it a thumbs-up.

A lovely day, mostly sunny, about 70º, as we head out for a get-acquainted stroll. Past the Place des Artes, w/ striking Museum of Contemporary Art, into Complexe Desjardins, one of the distinctive above-and-underground shopping complexes for which Montreal is known. We continue along downtown streets, into a pretty church w/ especially lovely windows and a chatty man to offer some information.

A late lunch or early dinner – we can’t decide which it is – and on to Place Ville-Marie, where the “underground city” began. Up top again we pass some interesting exhibits: panels of photos showing the same locations in the 1930s and now, and an “Illuminated Crowd” sculpture representing “truth, comedy, and a sense of tragedy” that’s both stirring and troubling in its imagery. Back to the hotel for a bit of R&R.

A metro ride (I’m mindful of being pickpocketed in the Barcelona metro in May, but I have Steve, President of the American Society of Criminology, for security) to see La Magie des Lanternes at the Jardin Botanique on a perfect evening. Less crowded than we thought it might be, and they don’t seem to be making a big deal about the opening night, even the restaurant is closed. The many-storied observation tower at the Olympic stadium looms in the distance. Gardens are beautiful, lovely bansai displays including one over 200 years old. We “stop to smell the roses,” a phrase that recurs amid groans during the weekend.

Lanterns are spectacular, even more so than anticipated (or in the words of one little boy: “Oh, Wow!!”). They line walkways and are especially clustered around a lake in the Chinese Garden area. To paraphrase from a description: The Lantern Festival is a tradition dating to the Han dynasty (206 B.C.-220 A.D.), held during the New Year cycle of festivities. With traditional motifs of plants, animals (including very colorful dragons), and mythical scenes, there are more than 700 handcrafted lanterns, many of which are more like large parade floats. This year’s theme salutes the Insectarium’s 20th anniversary, including grasshoppers, dragonflies and butterflies along the paths. [Note: The Insectarium, and the Biodome in nearby Olympic Park, are closed due to some sort of labor dispute – have to see them next time.]

The colorful lanterns are fabulous in the lowering PM sun, even more beautiful and colorful as it gets darker, the lanterns lit from inside and reflecting in the lake. We snack on some jasmine-scented green tea and tasty Chinese pastries. Many photos are taken, Jill’s enjoying her new camera. Metro back to the hotel. A wonderful start to the weekend!

Saturday, Sept. 11:

It’s the anniversary of the “9/11” terrorist attacks, marred this year by unseemly debates over the proposed location of a mosque near “ground zero” and threats by a wacky Florida minister to burn Korans. But we know we’re in Canada: French-speaking Saturday AM TV cartoon characters, hockey and Canadian football (Stampeders beat Eskimos!) on the sports news. Marjorie figures out metric temps, concludes it’ll be a nice day; she’s right: clear blue sky all day, temps about 50º to start, later up to low 70ºs. S & J recommend a good place across the street for breakfast. They’ve had some credit card problems: one of their cards seems to have been blocked when they started using it in a “foreign” country. Another card works OK, so guess we won’t have to cover for our deadbeat friends. Heading off we pass a parking-meter type thing to leave spare change for the homeless. Marjorie later finds a “toonie” on the sidewalk which she donates to the art museum.

Some pretty doors for M’s photo collection, pretty painted moose cutouts along the street that inspire M to consider such a thing (on smaller scale) for her garden.

We stroll around the McGill campus, then along streets w/ pretty buildings (lots of shiny glass), colorful flags and flowers, sculptures. Down Crescent St, w/ pretty shops and restaurants. Police pull over a jaywalker, tho we think he attracted their attention for other reasons. Past a long line of people that we learn are waiting for a store to open so they can get new iPhones; too techie for us.

We’ve strolled long enough so the Museum of Fine Arts is open. Great variety here, from old masters (Renoir, Rodin, Monet et al.) to contemporary (including Picasso and Joan Miró, whose work we admired in Barcelona).

Many glass exhibits are scattered about Montreal at various places and times thru the year: here there’s a beautiful exhibit of studio glass pieces. And a couple of guys using swiffer sweepers on the glass cases, must be an unending job! Interesting contemporary furnishings nearby. A wonderful place, one of our best museum experiences w/ something for everybody. A stop for light lunch at the breakfast place; we pass on the Nanaimo bars, a Canadian dessert delicacy that Marjorie had made for a party before Matt & Anthea’s wedding (but that’s a longer story). M is allowed into the “bowels of the hotel” to retrieve a book she’d left in the car.

We’re off again, walking toward the old city (Vieux Montréal). Past the Museum of Contemporary Art again, pretty grounds and distinctive “eyeball” sculptures, skirting Chinatown. M nixes going into an IGA – it lacks the cachet of the European groceries she likes to explore. To Basilique Notre-Dame, site of Celine Dion’s wedding (Jill informs us), famous for other reasons too. We’re disappointed the plaza in front is all torn up for construction (which seems to be going on thruout the city).

A brief stop to get tickets for a sound-and-light show this evening, then strolling to Place Jacques-Cartier. M & I partake of tasty gelato, M especially liking the maple flavor w/ maple candy chips (seems authentically Canadian).

We join S & J at their favorite outdoor spot for wine/beer and people watching, including bridal parties (S & J think) stopping for photos in a very atmospheric venue. But there are no brides, so M & I are skeptical until 2 friendly young women next to us (from Australia & Toronto) say some were thru earlier. Maybe we’re too late. We ponder the “Montreal Poutine” place across the way (poutine is another Canadian delicacy: French fries + gravy + cheese curds + whatever; we don’t partake). Here comes a bride! And then another! S & J feel vindicated.

More strolling and shop-browsing, interesting store windows. M & J find an interesting shop for some purchasing; M admires the natural (i.e., gray) hairstyle of the friendly shopowner, takes her picture to use for her own planned makeover. The party then splits: S & J back to the hotel (and they’ll pick up some things for us), M more shop-browsing, R to the port and pretty boats.

M & I rendezvous for 5:00 Mass at the Basilica, first waiting for yet another wedding party to clear away (and take photos) from the entrance. Spectacular bells ring before our 3^rd “international liturgy” of the year: in Portuguese (Bermuda), Spanish (Barcelona), now French; but we can follow along OK. During Mass a couple of people appear amid the sculptures high above the altar; no indication why, maybe looking for bathrooms? Interior photos after Mass: especially beautiful lighting and sculptures above the altar. Then more looking thru shops, one w/ rather distinctive phallic key chains. Down to the riverfront: music and impromptu dancing in the park, lots of people getting on dinner/party cruises.

Thru a pretty courtyard to meet up w/ S & J for the basilica show: Et La Lumiére Fut (And Then There Was Light). Church interior is covered by screens, images (and narration thru headphones) of the history of settlement here and of the church. Interesting, but then comes the highlight: screens fall away to reveal the spectacular interior and altar area. Oohs & ahhs from the audience. Spotlights highlight different parts of the church, beautiful organ music. Quite a nice show.

Spiritually refreshed, we enjoy a wonderful dinner nearby. After dinner brief strolling on a perfect evening along Place Jacques-Cartier, colorful shops and artists, restaurants spilling outside, a busker trying to sing “Hotel California” (not quite up to the Eagles’ standards). Metro back. Walking past an armory for the Black Watch Regiment we hear bagpipes; seems festive but it’s a bit sobering when we realize troops are preparing to board trucks for deployment. To the hotel about 10:00. A long and excellent day!

Sunday, Sept. 12:

Cloudy & cool AM to start. Our now usual breakfast place for good bagel & croissant egg sandwiches & coffee. We follow veteran directions ̶ Steve: “Stick with me!” ̶ to get efficiently out of the city and over Pont Champlain toward the border. A stop to get VAT refunds only to learn they don’t do that anymore. But quickly thru Customs and into the US. Steve continues his GPS role directing us across northern L Champlain to pretty Rouse’s Point (reminds us of Charlevoix, MI, where Russ’ brother has a vacation home), a bridge crossing over to Vermont. South along Rt 7, pretty sun & clouds now, pretty towns and lots of “rurality”: many farms, cows & horses, mountains in the distance on both sides. A lovely ride down to Burlington.

In Burlington we’re happy to discover a weekend Marketfest on the Church St pedestrian area: lots of folks out, live music & dance, wandering characters (Mickey Mouse, Snoopy, Goofy), brightly painted cow sculptures thruout. Lunch at a pub w/ the NY Giants season opener on TV (of interest to some of our group, not so much to others). Jill & I enjoy tasty chicken cheddar chowder (which is also fun to say). Then a bit of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream – we’re near the mother ship after all, tho the group nixes a factory tour. Sprinkles as we return to the car, light rain as we continue south thru more pretty countryside. M & J nap in the back seat, S searches (unsuccessfully) for the Giants game on the radio. But we finally get a report that they’re winning, yeah! Steve directs me below L Champlain over to NY, the group nixes a stop at Hillbilly Fun Park. Past the “Monster Breakfast Buffet,” bringing our journey full circle. Also seeming to reprise Friday AM, on the Northway a van changing lanes cuts me off, more horn-honking! At least my reflexes have been passing the test. A last bit of excitement: the new Exit 6 bridge traffic pattern is finally in place. Doesn’t sound like much, but for us Latham folks this has been a long time in construction.

As usual, lots of walking (and some stiff legs), we covered a lot of ground. Montreal’s an interesting walking city, like so many European cities we’ve visited. And many beautiful sights plus events that even exceeded expectations. Good timing also for unplanned events, excellent weather all thru the weekend. Steve & Jill proved to be delightful travel companions, as expected. The weekend could not have been better. Un Bon Voyage!

OTHER CANADIAN JAUNTS

I’ve lived near Canada all my life, and have some family connections: my stepfather was born a “Newfie” and my daughter-in-law is Canadian. Over the years Marjorie & I have visited Canada many times, 9 provinces altogether, including briefer stops in Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Toronto, Kingston, and Montreal. Below are synopses of some of our longer stays.

Nova Scotia (1981):

We take a large ocean-going ferry from Bar Harbor ME to Yarmouth. After getting into international waters, little 5-year-old Matt “helps” Marjorie’s Uncle Bill play some slot machines.

A pretty drive along the coast.

Classic harbor views at Peggy’s Cove.

A stay in Halifax w/ pretty Public Gardens and cemetery,

waterfront (with large fish!),

Citadel and soldiers marching around (and standing guard),

plus views over the city.

A drive to historic Sherbrooke Village (like Sturbridge).

We follow the Cabot Trail around Cape Breton w/ beautiful coastal views. A stop for dinner, Matt runs and falls in the gravel parking lot – bloody knees and tears, but he (and we) recover.

Can’t find a motel so we keep driving until we finally find one by the bridge back to the main island [after this I’ll be leery of not having reserved lodging on our trips].

More beautiful driving and sights the next day: Evangeline monument and gardens,

Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site,

Grand Pré Natl Historic Pk, Ft. Anne,

more pretty coastal views,

and Digby (home of “Digby chicken,” aka smoked herring). Ferry back to Bar Harbor. We arrive at night amid a ferocious storm, power is out along the coast. The Customs guy asks the usual questions, including “Did you buy anything? – little Matt awakes from his slumber to exclaim (quite out of the blue, and incorrectly!) “My Mom bought fireworks!” Customs Man says, pleadingly, “You didn’t buy any fireworks, did you, M’am?” We didn’t, and he waves us along.

Quebec (1985):

Joined again by Uncle Bill, a regular companion on our summer trips, we’re off to an area w/ very European ambience. A motel outside the city w/ a pool son Matt enjoys. I greet the motel clerk w/ my best “Bonjour;” the reply: “You are American?” Not such a good accent, I guess. It’s a pretty city: Parliament and Citadel (w/ troops marching).

Hotel Frontenac looms above the old city along the river.

We enjoy enjoy exploring the city center, and a Maison du Spaghetti dinner.

We take a pretty drive outside the city along the St. Lawrence to Montmorency Falls, Chute Ste-Anne (gorge).

Then to Ste Anne de Beaupre, a pilgrimage church w/ crutches lining the walls, stations of the cross on a hill above.

Onto Ile d’Orleans to L’Atre restaurant for a delightful colonial-era dining experience, beginning w/ a horse-drawn carriage ride from the road to the old house, servers in costume.

More time enjoying the sights around the city.

Back home thru New England, including alpine slide rides in Stowe VT for all except Uncle Bill, then Lake Champlain ferry to NY.

Prince Edward Island (1990):

Uncle Bill joins us again, but where’s Matt? He’s been w/ us on trips until now, but he has varied other summer opportunities of his own – trips to see Grandma in Wisc or Nana & Grandpa Bill in Niagara Falls, to KC to visit the w/ cousins, and eventually his various summer music experiences in Lucerne, Saratoga, and Tanglewood – that begin to leave us on our own for traveling.

A drive thru New Brunswick and interesting tidal phenomena: Reversing Falls in Saint John, Bay of Fundy and Flowerpot Rocks carved by tides – we arrive at low tide to walk along the beach that’s under many feet of water at high tide! To Magnetic Hill in Moncton – the car really does seem to roll uphill!

Over to PEI. Woodleigh Replicas has small-scale replicas of famous buildings around the world. Beautiful Malpeque Gardens, pretty countryside, farms, beach communities. Colorful capes and cliffs, nice beaches. Such a lovely place to wander about in our car!

A shipbuilding museum and miniature RR of particular interest to Uncle Bill. We enjoy a traditional PEI lobster dinner, also a production of “Anne of Green Gables.”

We stay in a B & B outside of Charlottetown that’s managed by a teenager while his parents are away ̶ he handles it very well; and enjoy time in the pretty city. Ferry back to NB and pretty St. Andrews, interesting views at low tide.

Canadian Rockies (1992):

We have a somewhat torturous route to get free flights via our frequent-flyer credit card: Albany to Chicago to Dallas (!) to Calgary. But we make it and join up w/ Uncle Bill to see things in Calgary: Stampede Park and Saddledome views, downtown and pretty indoor Devonian Gardens, Olympic Plaza, Zoo/Botanical Garden/Prehistoric Park (w/ lifesize dinosaurs).

To Banff and Tunnel Mt Chalets above town.

It’s a pretty spot w/ elk frequenting the grounds (even crossing the street in town),

cute squirrels come to our veranda door for handouts.

An initial drive around to see Cascade rock gardens, Bow Falls, a view of classic Banff Springs Hotel set among the peaks. The mountains really loom over the town.

The next day brings some rain, so we start w/ indoor things: Whyte and Park Museums. Then the Cave and Basin, walking close by grazing elk paying us no heed. Into town for an International Street Performer Festival.

Next AM on the road north by beautiful mountains and glacier-fed lakes (especially beautiful Moraine L) to Lake Louise.

A nearby gondola ride for panoramic overview, lovely afternoon tea in the L Louise Chalet overlooking the lake, surrounding mountains & glaciers, men in alpine garb w/ big horns. Quite a setting!

Along Bow Parkway back to Banff, sightings of bighorn sheep (some right on the side of the road) and goats.

Next AM further north on Icefields Parkway. Panoramic views of Bow L and Peyto L nestled among the craggy peaks. At Columbia Icefields, on the border of Banff and Jasper NP, a snowcoach ride and walking on Athabasca Glacier.

Back to Banff and up Sulpher Mt gondola for panoramas of Banff and surrounding mountains (plus mountain goats up top).

Our last day in Banff includes a hike into Johnston Canyon, tour of Bankhead mining town, views of Buffalo paddocks (and we can get tasty Buffaloburgers in town). Pretty views of the RR tracks along the road, by lakes & mountains. A drive around L Minnewonka, more bighorn sheep and mountain goats.

Back to Calgary: Olympic Park and Heritage Park (w/ marching Mounties), Mount Royal residential area, downtown areas (Century Park, City Hall, Chinatown). More torturous flights home.

Vancouver (1994):

After a previous trip to Seattle and environs, it’s back to the Pacific NW w/ Uncle Bill. Beautiful mountain views on the flight.

Vancouver has a beautiful setting: water, mountains, many flowers & gardens.

Expansive Stanley Park along the waterfront w/ a nice aquarium, views of the city and harbour. Queen Elizabeth Park has especially beautiful flower gardens, wedding parties taking photos.

Beautiful waterfront views.

Pretty cityscapes, with our favorite "Cows" ice cream treats.

Univ. of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology w/ interesting sculptures.

Harbour Center and old Gastown area.

Chinatown w/ Sun Yat Sen Garden.

A Seabus ride to Lonsdale Quay and English Bay, pretty views of water & mountains.

Over a Suspension bridge across a gorge into heavily wooded Capilano Pk.

Nitobe Japanese Garden and Van Dusen Gardens. Granville Island shopping and Public Market.

A day trip north of the city via train along the coast to Squamish and Grouse Mt logging areas, boat back. Another outing south to Steveston and salmon cannery.