Rambling with Russ: Bermuda #2 + Hawaii & Bahamas

Bermuda Redux

March 2010

Nearly 30 years ago, with kindergartner Matt in tow, our Bermuda trip ended under a bit of a cloud, when Marjorie was “arrested” for practicing witchcraft. We nonetheless vowed to return. A deal on-line thru Bermudatourism.com was too good to pass up, so off we go for Spring Break. We’ll try to not be too wild, in case Marjorie’s checkered past is still on record. The timing seems right ̶ we’ve had a cold snap, woke up to snow on the ground Thursday AM! We don’t anticipate tropical weather; Bermuda’s about 900 miles due east of S. Carolina, expected comfortable temps in the 60s. Heading into the Bermuda Triangle, maybe we’ll get some answers about TV show “Lost.”

Saturday., March 27:

As usual, Marjorie was up very late packing, then we hit the road for Queens in the AM. It becomes more spring-like going south: yellow forsythia and buds on trees and bushes around NYC. A brief visit w/ Matt & Anthea and grandsons William and Miles. We admire Matt’s handiwork in assembling new bunk beds for the boys, William shows off his Taekwondo uniform w/ various jabs and kicks. Matt & William drive us to JFK, William listening to fart noises on Daddy’s I-Pod (you can get an app for anything!). Quickly thru self-serve check-in, swiping passports, etc. There must be a lot of fat in the schedule, as we depart almost an hour late at 6:30 but reach BDA about on time at 9 (1½ hour flying time and we lose an hour). It appears to be quite windy (an omen, it turns out), a very bumpy landing. Marjorie swears last time we landed here in a hurricane! Into Arrivals Hall where we’re greeted by a musician (a nice touch) and very friendly customs people. A “Russell Ward” sign awaits us in the lobby ̶ it’s Beeline Transport for our hotel transfer. We share the ride w/ a family w/ young kids; daughter’s very chatty, announces it’s her Mom’s birthday, so we all serenade her as we dash along (on the British left side) of dark, winding, narrow, hedgerow-lined roads.

Our previous stay was in the South Shore beach area w/ meals included. This time we opted to be closer to main city Hamilton and dining flexibility. Wharf Executive Suites is on the water across the harbor from Hamilton, conveniently next to Darrell’s Wharf ferry landing. A small place w/ 15 suites (less than half occupied while we’re here): ours is very roomy w/ double bed, sofa bed, easy chair, table & chairs, kitchenette (sink, cupboards, minifridge, microwave, toaster, coffee-maker). Balcony looks onto the water, islands and boats across from us, city lights off to the right. A lovely setting. Lots of Bermuda info provided in the room, even a Frommer’s guide (our favorite for trips).

Sunday, March 28:

A cloudy, breezy AM. High temps thruout our stay are mid-to-high 60s, lows only a few degrees less. Breakfast included at the hotel: tasty granola cereal, toast & jellies, scones. A man in the breakfast room is trying to arrange a surprise birthday cake for his wife. I tell him Marjorie does all sorts of cakes, but unfortunately lacks the facilities here to help him out. We head to the ferry. Oops! My bad-- they don’t run this early on Sunday. We share a taxi into Hamilton w/ next-suite neighbors, a woman who grew up here, left some 50 years ago, but returns (this time w/ her adult son) to visit her 90ish mother. In Hamilton we get 3-day bus/ferry passes, which prove well worth it; seniors ride everything for free . . . but only if they’re Bermudians. Front St. along the harbor very quiet, shops closed on Sundays, no cruise ships in port. The “Birdcage,” where an officer in Bermuda shorts directs traffic, is empty today (and regretfully thruout our stay).

Undaunted, we begin our sightseeing, following a Frommer’s walking tour.

First into pretty Par-la-Ville Park: lovely flowers and sculptures, a yellow bird (we later decide it’s a “kiskadee”), some sun poking out.

Past City Hall w/ gleaming white tower.

Here and elsewhere around the island are whimsical people sculptures: on the front steps is a woman reading to children on a bench, figures of children fishing in the fountain in front. Nearby bus terminal offers a first view of the pink buses here but they’re less quaint than we remember ̶ full-sized modern vehicles.

Guess we should expect some changes in 30 years. We pass Victoria Park w/ its impressive bandstand.

It’s Palm Sunday, I even brought a tie for church. I’m also thinking of my choir colleagues at home singing an old favorite, “Holy City.” Many church options here. We opt for Catholic Cathedral St. Theresa’s, supposed to be more decorative than the Anglican Cathedral. The 10am Mass is in Portuguese; we’ve experienced this in Providence, RI, likely a reflection of the seafaring roots of these places. Despite the language difference we pretty much follow what’s going on. A pretty interior, murals above the altar and organ, an unusual palm sculpture on the altar. We follow people outside for blessing of the palms. The priest smiles and greets “Americans” as we leave after Mass; we suspect this may be about the limit of his English.

Our first bus ride after church, views of pretty pastel-colored buildings, to the Botanical Gardens w/ nice areas: Sensory and Japanese Gardens, among other sections. A friendly native (cat) accompanies us around. Here and other parks don’t seem as well kept up as we recall. We learn later it’s been a hard winter, lots of wind ̶ plants are “sea-burned” (wind + salty air).

Another bus back into Hamilton for brunch at Hog Penny pub. Sunnier weather now as we continue our explorations, past the Pepto-Bismol-pink Presbyterian church

and a hike up to Fort Hamilton, its moat filled w/ gigantic vegetation (we have a photo of then little Matthew under huge leaves in 1982), panoramic views up top of the city and harbor (or should I say harbour?). A fellow is flying 2 kites on the ramparts, a great spot for it. After getting down from the Fort I have to hike back up to retrieve my sunglasses; I’ll feel that extra climbing later!

More strolling on a nice afternoon. Marjorie shares Galaxy chocolate treats w/ her tour guide. Pretty buildings: the Cabinet Building fronted by Cenotaph (memorial to war dead) and pretty flowers; the beautiful reddish-brown Sessions House (Parliament);

the Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, much larger and very Gothic looming over the city. People are still very friendly here ̶ lots of “good morning” and “good afternoon” greetings along the streets thruout our stay. Pretty store windows along Front St., especially jewelry; we take note for Marjorie’s silversmith boss Theresa. Passing the intriguingly-named Ministry of Culture and Social Rehabilitation, we have an Arlo moment from Alice’s Restaurant: “Kid, have you rehabilitated yourself?”

Our first ferry ride, back to the hotel. It’s been quite breezy, we’re feeling a bit windblown, but beautiful sun now, deepening the color of the water and highlighting the bright pastels of buildings along the shore. Evening relaxation: Marjorie watches teen vampire romance “Twilight” (I saw this on a flight for another trip), then I catch a basketball game.

Monday, March 29:

News reports of heavy rain and flooding in NYC area. Overcast here to begin, but it brightens w/ breaks of sun during the day; pretty calm to start, quite breezy later. A busy day planned since the forecast for tomorrow is a bit ominous. Darrell’s Wharf seems to be used by commuters into Hamilton, w/ parking for 10 cars. A short ferry ride to Hamilton, then bus to the South Shore beach area. We’ve learned that pink bus stops are headed to Hamilton, blue stops are outbound. Many of the bus drivers (and ferry captains) are women. Drivers greet each other (and some others) with beeps as they pass. And lots of “Thank you” & “Have a nice day” as people get off. But there is a blemish in paradise: at one stop the driver refuses to let a woman in wheelchair on; her husband insists they rode the bus yesterday but driver says it’s policy, and calls supervisor who confirms. A white-haired-bearded man at a roundabout blows kisses to passersby ̶ he seems quite delighted when Marjorie blows a kiss back. There’s a nearby sculpture that looks like the same man doing this, so it seems quite a local tradition. And at roundabouts you “Give Way,” not “Yield.” Past Bermuda College, Marjorie would like me to retire here. Cultivated fields w/ lush soil, more pretty buildings w/ a mix of light pastels and brighter colors ̶ yellows, pinks, greens, blues, etc. ̶ and always white roofs!

Off the bus to follow beach trails from Warwick Long Bay to Jobson’s Cove to Horseshoe Bay. We remember exploring this area w/ Matt. Even w/ soft overcast light this AM it’s so beautiful: many hues of blue water, dramatic rock outcroppings, lush vegetation, pristine pink sand. The pink comes from broken up coral, which seems less now than we remember; maybe it’s a seasonal thing, depending on what the surf brings in.

Back on the bus to Hamilton, many banks (HSBC has a big presence) and insurance companies. Should we start an “offshore account” for our retirement money? Another bus to the Aquarium and Zoo, by Flatts Bridge. A little boy runs up to one tank, the woman with him asks “How many are in there?” He replies, “All of them!,” drawing a chuckle from this passerby. A large and colorful coral reef setup, complete with sharks swimming gracefully past viewing windows. Outside we’re impressed with a big scary alligator, also Australasia & Caribbean areas including colorful flamingos.

Marjorie makes friends w/ Josh, who’s almost 2, accompanied by his Mom and brand new baby. Grandma Marjorie and Josh go hand-in-hand thru the bird enclosure. Mom says they live right across the bridge, come every day to tire out Josh for his nap. Impressive peacocks wandering about. As we leave an ambulance arrives for a child who was injured or became ill.

Another scenic bus ride to St. George’s at the eastern tip of the island. More sun now, a quick snack at “Temptations.” Many things are closed, it’s not quite the season yet. But we follow another Frommer’s walking tour. King’s Sq. and pretty Town Hall. Ordnance Island with replica of the Deliverance (which carried shipwrecked passengers on to Jamestown; some remained as the founders of the Bermuda colony); a dunking stool used in 17^th C witch trials (better keep a low profile for Marjorie).

Somers Garden w/ beautiful flowers, palm trees, moon gate. Marjorie especially likes the nasturtiums growing in wild profusion, also the many hibiscus in hedgerows along the roads.

St. Peter’s Church w/ lovely wood interior and surrounding cemetery.

Beautiful blue sky, but as soon as we apply some sunblock clouds come in. A grocery stop to get some snacks and drinks to take back to the hotel. Things are expensive here, 2-3 times as much as home! Pretty much everything has to be imported ̶ even New Zealand butter. And we learn later that grocery stores don’t take coupons. Are they barbarians? Feeling pretty windblown again, bus and ferry back “home” to relax w/ a bit of wine before dinner.

Back to Hamilton. Our ferry Cap’n explains the insignia: Quo Fanta Ferut means “wither the fates carry us.” Though this seeming randomness may be a bit unsettling to ferry passengers, it likely reflects the shipwreck origin of the Bermuda colony, and Bermuda is reportedly the setting for Shakespeare’s The Tempest. We enjoy these ferry trips, passing such a variety of boats among the islands in the harbor and Sound. Quite a few of the islands have houses on them.

Dinner at The Lobster Pot, a local favorite. Famous fish chowder, spiced up w/ sherry peppers and black rum. Marjorie has “Wahoo Fricassee,” I the “Bermuda Triangle” (shrimp, scallops, mahi-mahi). We share key lime cheesecake to top things off. Our other purchases here are embarrassingly small (our shopping is mostly of the “window” variety) ̶ this is our splurge!

A cool breezy evening, ferry back after dark. It’s nice being on the water at night, lights along the shore.

Tuesday, March 30:

Cloudy AM, still windy. And noisy ̶ a big barge w/ construction equipment and debris landing at Darrell’s Wharf and unloading onto trucks. Still a lot of rain reported in NYC, another 1.5-2.5” expected! I’m feeling a bit stiff from all our walking, especially hiking along the beach trails. At breakfast we continue our chats from the previous day w/ two fellow suitemates: Scott & Mike, geographers from Kent State. They’ve been exploring on bikes, and we suggest some of the places we’ve been. Scott & Mike later comment that Marjorie’s friendly personality led them to speculate about her occupation: schoolteacher or maybe nurse? Not a witch, anyway. No compliments for the old professor, though. On our usual “pink” ferry route to Hamilton Marjorie trades viewing of grandson William’s Taekwondo pics with a fellow passenger’s judo pics of his son.

Then the “blue” ferry, a longer ride (20 minutes) in a bigger boat, to the Royal Naval Dockyard at the western tip of the island (so we’ll have pretty much covered Bermuda from one end to the other). More pretty houses along the shore and on the islands. Who lives in these places? At the Dockyard it’s very windy (have I mentioned the wind?). This area has been built up substantially since we were here, Frommer’s calls it a “premier” tourist attraction.

We’ll skip “Snorkel Park” and “Dolphin Quest Experience” ($225 to “cavort” w/ dolphins for 45 minutes), but interesting art and craft options in old warehouse-type buildings. The setting reminds us of Ellis Island and MassMoCA. And even here, as we’ve seen elsewhere, there are chickens & roosters wandering about.

We look around the Bermuda Craft Market and the Arts Centre, especially enjoy the Dockyard Glassworks and Bermuda Rum Cake Company. Beautiful blown glass ̶ Marjorie gets a tiny (but life-size) Bermuda Whistling Tree Frog for her miniature collection, enjoys talking w/ someone about her glassblowing classes at Corning. Birds are flitting around the upper reaches of the old building. Do they get loopy on the rum cake samples? There are warnings to not give samples to small children. We finish up in a small colorful shopping mall housed in another building.

The weather has held up longer than expected, but light rain begins as we bus back to Hamilton. Another pleasant scenic ride (our longest, about 45 minutes), views of higher surf now along the South Shore. Into City Hall, housing the Bermuda Society of Arts and Bermuda National Gallery. The latter is exhibiting a private collection of paintings set in Bermuda and especially beautiful stained glass by local artist Vivienne Gardner (in the wonderfully-named Hareward T. Watlington Room). The docent is eager to tell about the exhibits, and is insistent on no photos! ̶ she seems suspicious of the camera hanging from my belt, but I’m a good boy. Speaking of art, we haven’t seen much Easter stuff out and about, only 1 blow-up bunny along the roads! But we hear Good Friday is a big holiday: stores close, big kite festival, etc. Sorry we’ll miss it. It’s raining pretty hard now, too windy for our umbrella to be much good.

Ferry to the hotel to relax and dry out, then back to Hamilton. A small sailboat is out in the wind & rain, trailed by a motorboat; a ferry crewmember thinks they’re probably training for competition. It seems like a pub night, so a return to Hog Penny for dinner. A historical tidbit: “hog money” was the earliest British colony currency, referencing wild swine on the island when it was discovered. The latter also seems commemorated in this establishment by the “famous Platter of Pig.” We pass on that extravaganza: ribs for me, salmon for Marjorie, after beginning w/ Bermuda onion soup (seems pretty much the same as French onion). Sitting by a window, we watch the wind blowing up the hill, carrying a multitude of Styrofoam peanuts. Our friendly waitress is sure that will be cleaned up quickly ̶ she seems very proud of her Bermuda. Our last ferry ride back to the hotel on a dark & stormy night; another local tidbit: “dark & stormy” is a local drink, rum and ginger beer, which we eschew.

Wednesday, March 31:

Up early for out Beeline transport to the airport. News of a flood emergency in New England after 8+” of rain! Here it’s calm & clear w/ a bright full moon. Our ride arrives at 6 for our 6:45 pickup, but says there’s no rush, he just didn’t want us to be late. Marjorie has so carefully packed everything, then I pick up the suitcase w/o seeing it’s unzipped and dump everything on the floor! Just a slight delay. A very cheery and chatty ride. Driver says he’s also the mayor of St. George’s, regales us w/ stories of his elections, plans, philosophies; he has a saying for every occasion (“My glass isn’t half full or half empty, it’s overflowing so no pollution can get in.”). Sunrise as we get to the airport; looks like it will be a very sunny day ̶ too late for us, but it’s OK. We go thru US Customs at this end. Depart BDA about ½ hour late, share scones we brought for breakfast, 1:45 flying time, arrive JFK on-time at 10:30. Cloudy & gusty in NYC, another bumpy landing. Brrr: it’s in the 40s here. But at least JFK isn’t underwater from all the rain. Everyone in our Queens family is either at work or day care, so we’re on our own for the trip back to their apartment to pick up our car. Instead of a taxi we decide to see if Ma & Pa Ward can find their way back to Queens via public transport: AirTrain monorail to Jamaica Center, subways E to 7 to Matt & Anthea’s Jackson Heights neighborhood in a little over an hour (about the same as driving, but no traffic worries). We do fine, even giving directions to someone else, and it’s a good deal cost-wise. We find our car, a stop for lunch at favorite New Paltz diner along the way, back home uneventfully.

We saw quite a bit of the island again, more than expected, but also good R & R. The weather was mostly good, comfortable temps; maybe there could have been a bit more sun, less wind would have been OK too ̶ but no complaints. We liked the hotel: quiet and low-key, pleasant staff and guests. No cruise crowds: that meant some places were closed, but mostly it just made for a more relaxed, less crowded ambiance. A lovely trip.

Other Islands

Here are accounts of other “tropical” island trips: Hawaii & the Bahamas.

Hawaii (1989):

We got a 3-island package w/ hotel/condo and car on each. Oahu first, a view of Pearl Harbor as our plane comes in. To our Pacific Monarch Hotel, a short walk from Waikiki Beach. As we enter our room the phone rings! – it’s UAlbany colleague Rick (a regular here) inviting us for dinner w/ some friends. Matt’s on his own a while, sneakily finds a pay phone to call his new girlfriend. [Dedicated readers can follow Matt from infancy to adulthood with his own family as he pops up periodically in the accounts of our travels.]

We check out our "neighborhood," including the International Market.

Next day a drive around Diamond Head and thru residential areas.

To beautiful Hanauma Bay and some snorkeling & beachcombing. And we run into Rick, his "beach bum" look very different from his university persona.

Some time in Sea Life and Ala Moana Center/Park.

In the evening we head up to St. Louis Heights, overlooking Honolulu below and Diamond Head in the distance, for a lovely dinner w/ Rick’s Hawaii friends.

A drive next day around the windward coast (some rain thru Pali pass) to Polynesian Cultural Center, sort of a Hawaiian Sturbridge w/ historical exhibits about Hawaii and indigenous groups, crafts, hula dancing. A very pretty and interesting place.

On to Haleiwa, pretty surfing coastal area where Matt gets himself outfitted as a surfer dude (bright t-shirt, shark tooth necklace) and we have the “best hamburger.” Back thru pineapple fields.

Sunday we‘re mostly around Waikiki: catamaran cruise (w/ some drinks), outrigger ride, Kapiolani Park w/ an art show and small aquarium.

And it's a beautiful spot for beachcombing and sunsets!

Followed the next day by more snorkeling (sure is fun!), stops at the Dole plant and Hilo Hattie (a good place to get what Matt calls our “Hawaiian bowling shirts” to wear later at a luau).

A short flight next AM to the Big Island of Hawaii and our Royal Sea Cliff condo in Kailua on Kona coast.

A drive south to interesting Pu’uhonua o Honounau Natl Pk (City of Refuge)

and St. Benedict’s “painted church” w/ beautiful interior murals of local scenes.

Up very early the next AM to drive around the southern tip (southernmost part of the US) and up the east coast to Hawaii Volcanoes NP.

It’s erupting along the coast, but gently w/ plumes of steam rising where lava meets the ocean.

Pretty walks thru the upper areas and along the rim, desolate but colorful. To a black sand beach.

We continue on to Nani Mau Gardens near Hilo and Onomea Bay scenic drive.

A pretty walk to an overlook for Akaka Falls, another dramatic overlook w/ panorama of coast and cliffs of Waipio Valley. Back “home” thru Parker Ranch country.

Next AM begins w/ Capt. Bean’s snorkeling cruise (especially beautiful fish!), complete w/ lunch and me being invited to dance on the tables w/ the lovely hula dancers (to Matt’s embarrassment!).

My brother Doug & family had coincidentally (independent of us, but w/ some overlap) arranged a similar trip to ours, we overlap here for the King Kamehameha Hotel luau (we’re in our Hawaiian bowling shirts, Matt in his surfer dude getup). A fun evening, pig roast and interesting food, dancing & singing.

Our last AM on this island we poke around Grass Shack shopping, up to coffee cultivation areas and museum above Kailua, before our flight to Maui and Maui Vista condo near Kamaole Beach. We begin w/ a drive into Iao Valley and distinctive Iao Needle, into a pretty church, then a walk on the nearby beach w/ pretty late-PM lighting.

Up very early (again!, w/ only minimal grumbling from my tour group) to drive up Haleakala for sunrise at the summit. Seems like some ancient druid ritual as people gather to see the sunrise amid the volcanic moon-like setting. Wow!

Pretty silversword plants, Nene geese, a party of cyclists (who were driven up, they ride back down).

We get breakfast at Kula Lodge halfway down. Stops at Kula Botanical Garden and Maui Tropical Plantation.

To Lahaina, a whaling port, some swimming, then Marjorie and I head back to Lahaina for a nice dinner date (Matt stays in the condo watching TV).

A pretty church and cemetery, ending the day with a (another) gorgeous sunset.

Next AM to Ulua Beach for more snorkeling (Russ spots a moray eel, head poking out of the coral!).

A pretty Maalea Bay cruise by the Pacific Whale Foundation, window-shopping thru Whaler’s Village in Kaanapali, then join the Doug Wards again for dining at their Hyatt Regency lodging (the highlight: a chocolate buffet!). On the last day some poking around Kihei and Kahului before our flight to San Francisco.