Lisbon

LISBON

May 2005

 

          Our trip to Lisbon used a variety of planning sources.  Basic hotel/air arrangements thru go-today.com, a reprise of London.  The old standby Frommer’s book for basic tourist stuff.  We added info from friends who’d made recent trips to Lisbon; met an old Portuguese market owner in Providence while visiting friends; and I read Journey to Portugal by Portuguese Nobel-winner José Saramago.  So, following the style of Saramago, “the travelers” feel ready to experience Portugal.  But first a few other matters.  Marjorie spends several days beforehand with grandson William in Queens while Matt & Anthea have busy schedules.  She comes back with strep throat, but our “Dr. Dan” fixes her up quickly.  Then a filling repair the day before we leave  ̶  we’ll owe the dentist a Lisbon thank-you.  And M’s ready to test drive her new Mother’s Day digital camera, following tutorials from Matt & friend Alice.  [I’m still relying on my SLR for slides, haven’t overcome my reluctance to go digital.]

Wed., May 18:

          Down to Queens in the AM, a stroll with Matt & William to neighborhood deli Andrew & Frank’s for lunch stuff.  Matt can’t drive us to the airport  ̶  he promised some of his 4^th & 5^th grade students he’d come to their school performance; but he arranges a nearby car service to JFK.  Thru self-check-in we’re able to get better seats.  A mob next to us of Iberia passengers waiting for their crew, stuck in traffic on the way to the airport!  We don’t get bumped to business class for our British Airways flight (like an earlier trip), but we’re treated well: a little packet w/ socks, toothbrush, mask for sleeping; free wine with dinner; and pretty good food (!).  Flight departs on time at 6:30pm.

Thurs., May 19:

After breakfast we’re early to London Heathrow, but have to circle since regulations prohibit landings before 6am.  Bus to another terminal, then bus to our plane.  A little delay, departing about 8:30, then yet another meal!  Into Lisbon ½ hour late at 11:10.  A nice day, sunny, mid-70s.  Airport caixa automatica (ATM) for some euros (not a favorable exchange: 1 e = $1.28), then a taxi to VIP Hotel (pronounced to rhyme with “rip”).  A small, comfortable hotel in Saldanha commercial area north of city center; as noted on an internet site it’s a very good location (near metro stops) and value.  A couple of nice gallerias and grocery store nearby.  It has the usual European hotel lift where you need to remember to open and close the door yourself.  A typically challenging handheld shower, but plenty of hot water  ̶  which is all that matters.  We learn to puxe (pull) & empurrer (push) the doors to enter & leave the hotel.

Off to buy a 5-day transport pass.  It’s a must: Lisbon has many public transport options plus lots of steep hills to navigate, so it’s nice to just swipe a card for subways, buses, trams, funiculars, elevadors.  

 We stroll around the area near our hotel, including the Praca Marques de Pombal (monument to the person who led recovery after big 18^th C earthquake) and large Parque Eduardo VII.  Both a bit disappointing due to construction work and setting up for upcoming festival.  Into the subway; stations are spacious and nicely decorated with artwork, especially tile murals, also screens to view advertising.   

A short trip into the historic city center.  It’s a busy city w/ lots of traffic (we even witness a pedestrian get tossed onto the hood of a car at an intersection!).  Beautiful big plazas (e.g., Praca Dos Restauradores, commemorating the fight for independence from Spain) w/ monuments, fountains, pretty buildings as backdrop.  A castle (Sao Jorge) looms high above.   

We ride the distinctive Elevador de Santa Justa; this really is an “elevator” rising straight up several stories, while other elevadors are actually funiculars. 

Panoramic views over the city from the top.  But we can’t get off at the top due to construction, so we take nearby Elevador de Gloria up a very steep hill to the Barrio Alto (upper city)

 and Igreja (church) de Sao Roque w/ beautiful dark interior and especially noteworthy azulejos, decorative ceramic tiles found thruout Lisbon.  Marjorie finds the flexibility of her digital camera an asset in churches & museums  ̶  I think she’s trying to show me up!

Dinner outside at a cafe on the Avenida Liberdade, the Champs Elysee of Lisbon.  We’re convinced to sit down by a young man w/ friendly patter (who keeps calling me “Boss,” something one of my sociology colleagues does, jokingly, now that I’m Chair).  Nothing special, but good food and a relaxing setting.  Then an early finish to our evening.  Hotel TV offers mix of US and BBC reruns (we enjoy seeing old “Soap” and “All in the Family” shows), plus British and European cable news (we don’t hear much about the U.S.).  Other stations in Portuguese or dubbed.  Today’s news: Uzbek unrest and British PM Tony Blair treated for a slipped disk.  One station offers “reconstruction” of the Michael Jackson trial, using actors to portray the lead figures.

We managed pretty well with the metro today.  There are four linhas, each designated w/ a color/symbol; we use 3 during our stay: azul (blue)/seabird, amarela (yellow)/flower, verde (green)/galleon.  The system works pretty much like NYC, so you’re OK as long as you know the two ends of the lines to figure directions.  We also find the locals helpful, and say frequent obrigados (thank-yous).

Friday, May 20 : 

          A clear sunny AM.  A bit cool at first so Marjorie brings her London pashmina scarf.  Breakfast at the hotel (included): rolls, croissants, cheese & jellies, cereal, plus juice, coffee, tea.  Subway to the city center, where we locate historic electric tram 28 for a steep ride to the Alfama district.  

 Off at Miradouro Santa Luzia, a belvedere with beautiful flowers & tiles and spectacular panoramic views over the city and Tagus River; in the distance the 25 April Bridge (named for overthrow of a dictator in 1974, longest suspension bridge in Europe) and Cristo Rei statue (a replica of Rio’s). 

        

A short walk up to Castelo Sao Jorge.  A pretty tree-lined stroll along the ramparts, spectacular views over the city all around.   

Then a coffee stop amid resident peacocks & cats (yes, they seem to coexist OK).  Into a tower to view Lisbon thru a camera obscura, DaVinci’s invention.  A periscope optical system of lenses and mirrors projects an incredibly detailed 360º panorama into the base of the tower  ̶  we can even see people walking on the streets; luckily, nothing untoward seems to be going on.  A young women give a very nice presentation.  Nearby castle areas being prepared for some weekend events.   

Thru a pretty tapestry exhibit, then past shops, cafes, and artisans set up outside the walls; Marjorie finds a pretty bracelet.  Quiet when we arrived, but it’s getting busy as we head back to the Miradoura and nearby Fundacao Ricardo do Espirito Santo Silva, 17^th C palace that houses an interesting museum of decorative arts.  Marjorie’s antique-hound sister Mary would love this! 

Light lunch in the museum cafe, after some translational struggles.  More Alfama exploring.  We try to follow a Frommer’s walking tour, but streets are too twisty to keep track.  It doesn’t matter, everything is so enchanting: steep, narrow streets w/ flowers, tiles, hanging laundry.  Finally worn out, we take a bus and 3 subways to the hotel for a mid-PM break.

          After a brief stroll again into Parque Eduardo, dinner at Antonio, a good local place from the Frommer’s book.  Our waiter, a friendly older man (waiting tables in Europe is still male-dominated), helps translate the menu.  Marjorie gets salmon, I have rabbit, both yummy.  One hitch: credit card authorization needs some extra “secret code,” something we encounter a couple of other times (and our card company couldn’t explain why when we got back).  Our PIN doesn’t do the trick when this happens, but cash proves quite acceptable.  

 A cooler evening as we head back down into the city.  We’re able to find the glove shop where friend Sherry wanted us to buy more of what she had found here.  It’s a tiny “hole in the wall,” about big enough for Marjorie & the salesclerk, but their gloves are apparently fabulous. 

Then a nice stroll along Rua Augusta, full of fancy shops & cafes.  Subway back to the hotel is jam-packed; worse than anything Marjorie’s encountered in NYC; we have to really push our way out.  And we climbed a lot of hills today, plus slippery stony footing in the old city areas.  Our favorite gelado flavors straciatella & tiramisu at the nearby galleria help us recover.  TV has the Eurovision Song Contest, which has been going on for 50 years (ABBA got their start here).  Quite an extravaganza, puts “American Idol” to shame.  We’re particularly taken by what looks like somebody’s grandma beating a drum.

Saturday, May 21: 

          Cloudy, breezy, cool AM.  Scandalous prison photos leaked of Saddam in his underwear; headline in The Sun: “Bush Probes Saddam’s Pants.”  A quiet subway ride to Cais de Sodre, train station along the river.  A brief mist while we try to find the morning marketplace (the only rain of the whole trip!).  Success: we find the Ribeira Nova market in a large ornate Victorian-style shed.  A great place to wander: many stalls and open areas with produce, fresh fish & shellfish, flowers, meats, cheese, etc., etc.  Then a more modern electric tram along the river to Belem, at the western edge of the city.  A mix of sun & clouds, nice temps by now.   

After cappuccino & pastry at a neighborhood pastelaria, we walk thru the pretty Praca Alfonso de Albuquerque while waiting for the Coach Museum to open.  

The museum has a collection of fabulously opulent coaches for the rich & royal; Frommer’s says “the finest of its type in the world.”  After viewing these conveyances, as Mel Brooks might say, no wonder the peasants are revolting.   

To nearby Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Monastery of St. Jerome), with many tour bus groups.  Unfortunately, Marjorie’s Catholic schooling fails her, she can’t tell me anything about St. Jerome.  The monastery is over 500 years old, has an especially beautiful interior cloisters area  ̶  the “apex of Manueline art,” a flamboyant style common here that combines Moorish & Gothic influences.  A wedding is beginning in the church, Marjorie stays in the choir loft above to see the bride enter. 

          This part of Belem is across the train tracks from the riverfront, and we’d been unable to figure out how to get across.  One of the monastery staff takes the time to come outside to point the way to a walkway under the tracks.  That solved, we get orange juice at a cafe along the river (but no ice, another sign we’re in Europe).  Thru a pretty park to the Memorial to the Discoveries, landmark monument honoring Henry the Navigator and Portuguese explorers who opened up the New World.  Lunch at Vela Latina cafeteria in a park near Torre Belem, a castle-like tower guarding the river.  Another good Frommer’s tip (despite waiting behind a tour group; those darned tourists!): very tasty turkey kabob & monkfish, plus a little bottle of wine (you can get beer, wine, and liquor everywhere, from grocery stores to fast food places). 

Refreshed, we can’t skip the Museu de Marinha, a well-done portrayal of the centrality of the sea to Portugal and its history, especially the glory days.  Beautiful ship models and a hall of colorful river barges, plus lots of other seafaring stuff.  Then on the tram halfway back to Lisbon for  ̶  can you believe it?  ̶  yet another museum: Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua.  First a very steep hike up from the tram, thru a pretty park with bright flowers and neighborhood men playing games under a cupola.  The museum contains especially beautiful religious art, including a famous triptych by Hieronymus Bosch, plus bejewelled silver and gold pieces, fabulous azulejo tiles, other ceramic pieces.  We catch a bus near the museum that’s headed toward our hotel, winding up & around thru areas we hadn’t seen.  The driver signals “end of the line,” we realize we’re the only ones left on the bus (thought there was 1 more stop).

          Air here seems very dry, so we stop to get more water at the grocery across from the hotel.  Oops, the desk calls  ̶  we’d left the lift door open and alarm is ringing.  Marjorie relaxes while I take the subway to Campo Pequeno stop, murals of bulls since the bullfight ring is here.  The arena is an impressive edifice, but surrounded by a construction fence.  Apparently it’s being turned into a multi-entertainment venue with shops, cinemas, restaurants.  When I return we head to the “mall” across the street.  Pianist in the atrium as we enter, small and very upscale shops (plus a tupperware kiosk!), a cut above our local Crossgates Mall.  Very interesting options in the food court: a handsome young man helps Marjorie translate how to use a salad buffet, I get a presunto e quiejo brie (ham & cheese) sandwich.  We top it off with sinful cakes & cappuccino, all of it very reasonably priced.  Marjorie proclaims this her “favorite dining day” so far.  She’s not very high maintenance, and we’re beating Rachel Ray’s “$40 a Day” Food Channel travel show budget.

Sunday, May 22: 

          Good weather continues, clear blue sky in the AM.  A bit cool to start; it’s good to have jackets today, especially in some higher elevations.  Some weather comparisons: wet and “unsettled” in the British Isles thruout our week, heat waves along the Mediterranean.  Subway to Entrecampos estacao and vending machine to get tickets for the train (electric) to Sintra, 40 minutes northwest in the hills (only 1.40 e).  Not a particularly scenic ride: the universal language of graffiti along the tracks and lots of apartment buildings spreading out from Lisbon with clothes hanging on lines.  

A walk from the Sintra station to the historic city center, passing a fancy city hall that looks like something from Disneyland.

           We get tickets for a bus to hop on/off all day at the various sites, more efficient (and economical) than horse & buggy option.   

But first into Palacio Nacional de Sintra in the center of town.  Beautiful interior (but no photos allowed!): fabulous tiles, painted ceilings reflecting room “themes” (magpies, galleons, mermaids), ornamental cases, a huge kitchen with the distinctive conical chimneys visible thruout the area.  

 In front of the palace is the finish line for a 4K race, lots of people and a noisy PA system.  As we tour the palace we can hear Queen (the rock group, that is, singing “We Are the Champions”).  

We wander the steep narrow streets.  Tho it’s Sunday, shops are open w/ lots of interesting stuff; specialties are ceramics & linens, rather pricy.  We get some smaller things; Marjorie says she’s waiting for Tuesday’s promised Alfama flea market; hope it lives up to its billing.

           Hop on the bus to go up the hill, the bus filling to the brim at the last second w/ a tour group.  Thru lush vegetation, including camellias and rhododendrons, covering everything.  A very steep twisty road; continuing the Disneyland reference, Marjorie likens it to “Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride.”  We wouldn’t want to walk up, tho some (much younger than we, I’m sure) did.   

We ride a pretty little bus from the road to the Palacio Nacional de Pena, a Hearst Castle-type location at the very top of this high hill.  Spectacular panoramic views over the countryside, extending some 6 km to the coast and the mouth of the Tagus River.  Exterior is an elaborate and odd mix of styles, sort of “palace by committee.”  An especially beautiful interior (tho again no photos), w/ many furnishings and just lots of stuff.  Quoting Mel Brooks again: “It’s good to be King!”  Manuel I was aptly called “Manuel the Fortunate.”  Back in town, Oops, I break my sunglasses (and Marjorie’s embarrassed by my unsuccessful efforts to tape things together).  Our paths keep crossing at bus stops with a pleasant British couple.  

         

Mid-PM dinner at Frommer’s-recommended Tacho Real, after a steep “huff and puff” climb up a narrow street.  It’s “chic and elegant” (just like us).  We seem to be the last to get in before they close until evening, but are treated very well.  We remember that appetizer dishes, bread, cheese, etc. brought to the table aren’t necessarily incluido in the meal price; we dive into the olives and bread, but set aside the beans & cheese.  Then a wonderful meal: cod mixed in potato & eggs, steak in a decadent cream sauce.  Too stuffed for the tempting desserts, but our after-dinner cappuccino has a very thick layer of whipped cream & a mint, so we don’t feel too deprived.  Our biggest dining splurge, but still under 50 euros.  Onto the bus to see the Moors’ Castle only to discover it’s no longer open.  Bus continues to the train station past a large bazaar in a neighboring town.  We decide not to try to hop off here, but that puts even more pressure on Tuesday’s flea market!  (Marjorie seems to remember when I’ve taken her places only to find the shops closed.)  Time to head back, after a lovely day in a place Byron called “glorious Eden.”
          Back in Lisbon, Marjorie gets wine suggestions from a friendly woman at the hotel desk.  Back to Macuba Cafe at the mall for sweets: gelado & cookies.  As we settle down in our room later the city explodes w/ horn-honking, cheering, flagwaving, sirens!  We’d heard this before in Switzerland following a World Cup soccer match.  Sure enough, some kind of major futbol match has just ended on TV, w/ mostly naked players tossing their uniforms into the stands.  It’s all in Portuguese, so we’re not sure what it’s all about, but we learn the next day that Benfica, favorite Lisboan team, had won the national championship for the first time in 11 years.  Excitement outside lasts into the wee hours, TV report says “partying will last all summer!”

Monday, May 23: 

          Bom dia: another clear sunny AM.  We start with jackets; people here seem to bundle up in jackets, coats, sweaters if it’s even a little cool  ̶  don’t think they’d survive Albany.  But it’s a perfect day, bright sun & mid-70s in the PM.  Down to the Cais de Sodre estacio to catch the train along the river to the coast (1.40 e again for the 40 minute trip).  A pretty ride passing the 25 April Bridge, Cristo Rei, and Belem.  An accordion player is in our car at first, but thankfully he moves on.  End of the line is Cascais, where we find a cafe overlooking the beach and pretty coastal area for cappuccinos; 2 for 3 e, much less than NY.  Marjorie observes that coffee here is cheap, good, and a sit down to relax experience; people don’t seem to walk around with coffee.  

Cascais is a nice town, narrow streets to wander, interesting shops w/ reasonable prices.  I pass up 100 e Ray-Bans at one of the “optical” shops common here to find inexpensive replacement sunglasses for a sunny day at the beach.  Now I’ll have European sunglasses to go with European “sport shorts” from our Rhine trip. Marjorie enjoys a Pedemeia shop w/ nothing but socks  ̶  many bright colors and patterns and all sizes; she picks out some for William & herself, also a colorful patterned scarf.  

 We stroll around the pretty beach & harbor area: colorful boats, fashionable resorts, a pretty tiled city hall.  Lunch outside at a pastelaria: mista (mixed) and omelet sandwiches, w/ Coke Light (there seems to be no Pepsi in Portugal) and, to M’s amazement, ice.  

            Into a nearby US-style mall.  We ask about American movies at the cinema  ̶  Portuguese subtitles and much cheaper tickets; the new Star Wars is playing, but it seems silly to come all this way to watch a movie.  Marjorie browses in the grocery, finding a few things to take home (plus some chocolate that won’t last that long).  I have no luck finding a Benfica t-shirt, and haven’t found a USA Today anywhere to catch up on US sports news.  

 A short stop at Estoril resort town to see the praia (beach) and casino area enjoyed by the rich & famous.  After so much fresh air we both take little naps on the train back; conductor taps my shoulder to check tickets.  Back to the hotel, we check wine prices at nearby liquor store.  Owner is very helpful, tho nao fala ingles, offers a tasting of port.  He indicates someone speaks English here in the AM, so we’ll be back.

          Into the city for dinner.  But first the steep funicular Elevador de Lavra to the Jardim do Torel.  A pretty park w/ scenic views, but, like many parks here, no flowers.  Another Frommer’s dining tip at Bonjardim, where we eat a simple meal outside on a quiet side street: chicken for 2 roasted on a spit, salada mista and batata frita (mixed salad & fries).  A bottle of house wine for only 4.20 e; and yes, we polish it off ourselves during a very leisurely  meal.  Another friendly older man as waiter, he enjoys seeing our Frommer’s review of the restaurant.  Some entertainment: a car comes down this very narrow street and has to wait for the waiter to move some things to get thru.  M makes a pigeon friend when she drops a fry.  And we’ve learned that when you eat outside folks may come up to sell watches or sunglasses or just to beg (which is not uncommon on the streets here).  After dinner we run a gauntlet of people pushing menus to get business in an area where there’s one restaurant after another.  Some more wandering thru the city center, then we top things off with gelado near the hotel.

Tuesday, May 24:

          Looks like another beautiful AM.  I’m a bit stuffed up but not the only one sneezing  ̶  must be springtime in Lisbon.  In the news: some advocate banning “happy hour” in British pubs to reduce antisocial behavior from excessive drinking; yeah, that’ll happen.  And Jay Leno testifies today at the Michael Jackson trial.  Here it’s flea market day!  We’ve used up our transport pass and there’s nobody working at the 1^st station, so we buy tickets from the machine until we can get a combination day pass later.  

           After reaching Estacao Santa Apolonia a helpful policia points out a bus to avoid a very steep hike to the Alfama’s Campo Santa Clara, site of Feira da Ladra (“Thieves’ Market”).  It lives up to its advance billing, with all kinds of stuff exhibited in the campo and up the winding streets in the neighborhood.  Marjorie says it’s “the real deal;” I’m sure she’d trade me for sister Mary as a companion here.  We get an azulejo with a rooster on it, the ubiquitous Portuguese symbol; not enough to tile the bathroom, but a nice remembrance.  And we later learn the rooster is the “Cock of Barcelos”  ̶  it’s a complicated story, but the cock has become a symbol of faith, justice, and good luck.  M also buys a pretty olive dish (one of several she’s found: a very distinctive example of the ceramic work here, with a cute little place for pits) and an old brass drawer puller that she says “just screams flea market.”  So the shopping has been a success!  

           We head into the city for cappuccino break at a pastelaria and more strolling.  Up the Gloria funicular to locate some spectacular bougainvillea that we could see from the city below.  A pretty park w/ views of the city framed by the flowers.  A model is doing a photo shoot at the funicular when we head back down, but we’re not asked to be in the background.

           A brief hotel stop, then off to the Jardim Botanico.  First a nearby cafe for lunch.  There’s a New Mexico license plate on the wall, but nao fala ingles here.  We guess but aren’t sure what we’ve ordered; turns out yummy: mix-your-own salad for Marjorie (lettuce, chicken, corn, mayo), and baked brie/toasted crackers/jam for me, plus tasty olives.  The botanical garden, part of the universidad, is very large with lush vegetation, towering palm trees, and more flowers than most parks here.  Then more city strolling.  Still can’t find a Benfica t-shirt  ̶  is there no marketing sense here?  And it’s gotten pretty hot for the first time (probably mid-80s), so we have some ice cream bars and a hotel break.  

          Back into the city for dinner on a very pleasant evening.  We encounter mobs of flag-waving people & honking cars, related to some official celebration of Benfica’s victory.  Another busy street full of restaurants; we select Restaurante Cervejaria Raiana for more outdoor dining, something we’ve especially enjoyed here.  It turns out we’re right outside Gambrino’s, a very fancy place some friends had enjoyed.  A good meal: salmon & shish kabob, tasty inexpensive house wine.  An accordion player and other street musicians come by looking for money; a “free agent” singer gets shooed away by management.  

 A stroll afterwards to enjoy the lighted buildings and fountains.  We’re not back to the hotel until after 10, our latest outing of the stay!  We’ve been able to pack so much into the days, but haven’t summoned the energy to go out late to the clubs when the distinctive fado music is performed.

Wednesday, May 25:

          Had my best sleep, helped by benedryl for my stuffy nose.  Another sunny AM, forecast of 30° C (nearly 90° F).  Marjorie has us packed and organized.  But maybe we’re too frugal  ̶  we spent more on our friend’s gloves than our own purchases.  Ah well, it’s the experience of being here that matters.  After our hotel breakfast, s last stroll to the Parque Eduardo.  It’s quite warm already and too far to get to the greenhouses, but we join several bus groups to enjoy the panoramic view down the hill to the city & river.  A stop at the liquor store to get some wine to take home, but it’s closed  ̶  a note on the door says something about electricity & gas.  M gets some vinho verde (this “green wine” is distinctive of Portugal) at the grocery for us and some folks back home, plus local coffee & cookies; but no candy bars, which don’t seem to be as common here as other places we’ve traveled. 

A typical cream-colored Mercedes taxi to the airport; quite a bit cheaper than when we arrived; either we didn’t understand the pricing or were snookered a bit then, but still cheaper than NYC.  Easily thru check-in and passport check to reach security for the gate areas, only to be told we’re “too early” to go to the gate (it’s about 2 hours before boarding).  The actual gate areas have no shops, restaurants, or toilets, so we retrace back to the “mall” area for some lunch at the food court, then hang around (and I find a USA Today).  Comfortable seats on British Airways, new attendant uniforms. Departure right on time at 1:55, a “pizza” lunch, early into London Heathrow about 4:15.  A bus to Terminal 1, then a fire alarm and we’re herded into another area.  Happily this doesn’t last long and we take the bus to Terminal 4.  Some delay leaving because there is luggage without a passenger  ̶  not a good thing these days  ̶  but off we go at about 6:45.  There’s considerable interest on the plane in the Liverpool-Milan European soccer championship match; as we descend into NYC the pilot reports a Liverpool win “in extra time.”  We reach the JFK area ahead of schedule, but have to circle and then after landing wait 45 minutes to get a “stand” (pilot’s term for gate), so we don’t get into the terminal until about 9:45 (an hour late).  Obnoxious whining by some fellow passengers, even complaining when people in wheelchairs get their own line for passport checks.  Oh well, things move along fairly quickly, our luggage has arrived, Matt is waiting outside customs.  Cold & rainy, as it’s apparently been most of the time we’ve been gone.  After some relaxing with Matt  ̶  Anthea and William have left for a gig in Michigan  ̶  we hit the road, frequent head-clearing stops, home about 2am.

          It was a fabulous trip.  Beautiful sights and interesting culture, good food, just about perfect weather.  As with our London trip, staying in one place for the week gave an opportunity to get to know Lisboa.  We enjoyed mixing w/ locals in the metro & trams, relaxing in neighborhood eateries, strolling thru streets, shopping areas, and markets.  Got plenty of exercise walking the hilly city  ̶  Marjorie claims everything in Lisbon is uphill, tho that seems an exaggeration.  Lisbon and the nearby areas we could visit are fascinating and welcoming places to visit.  We returned with a Lisbon glow, tho that may just be from the nice sunshine we enjoyed.