Rambling with Russ: Block Island, Capes, & More Northeast

Block Island

September 1999

Thurs./Fri. 9/16-17:

The original plan for Marjorie’s birthday weekend was to ferry to Block Island Fri. AM and return Mon. But Hurricane (by now “Tropical Storm”) Floyd puts a crimp in those plans, coming thru Thurs. into Fri. AM w/ very high winds and lots of rain: about 6” here, a new 24-hour rainfall record (over 12” in Cairo, a little south of us). We lose power for about 6 hours Thurs. evening and the water is more than our backup sump pump can handle. Matt’s here and helps move most stuff away from the water in the basement (including a lot of his percussion equipment!), but carpeting on one side gets soaked. And needless to say, ferries to BI are canceled Thurs. and Fri. After mopping things up as best we can, Fri. night Matt makes his Mom’s birthday dinner, excellent ravioli with spinach; I supply treats from Bella Napoli for dessert. Promising weather reports for the weekend, we decide to head for BI on Sat.

Sat., 9/18:

Off about 4am for the 3 ½ hour drive to the ferry at Port Judith, RI. Crystal clear w/ lots of stars, turning into a beautiful sunny day, cool tho warm in the sun out of the breeze. We no longer have reservations for the car, so have to take our chances with “standby.” No room on the ferry at 9, the birthday girl takes the ferry while I stay with the car to keep trying. I chat w/ other folks in the standby line, including a couple of older couples from near Rochester who’ve been going to BI for 25 years. We all get on the 11:00 ferry. A smooth ride (11 miles, about an hour), reuniting w/ Marjorie at the landing. Coming in I spot some white tents along the shore, probably for weddings going on today (guests and musicians are on the ferries).

To our B & B, Barrington Inn, an old farmhouse about a mile outside Old Harbor. Nice spacious room (with a bed for Matt, but he’s too busy in NYC looking for an apartment). Nice views from the grounds on a hill overlooking New Harbor & Salt Pond. A pretty little cat outside who had “adopted” the Inn. We learn later the Inn is for sale; owners have bought another house for retirement.

Into Old Harbor. Driving is easy, everything within a few miles on this quite small island. Not much traffic, but lots of bikes & mopeds to watch for. And quite a few taxis, which also give tours. Takeout sandwiches for lunch overlooking the harbor. Nearby a sculpture of Rebecca (from the Bible, put up by the WCTU) in the middle of a little traffic circle by the Baptist church.

A drive out to Southeast Lighthouse (which has been moved back 100 yards due to erosion of the cliffs) and views of Mohegan Bluffs: rugged cliffs, beach & surf below, wild dune roses and other vegetation; lots of Monarch butterflies here and all around the island. A stop at the old town cemetery, views past moss-covered headstones toward New Harbor and our Inn.

Back to our Inn to relax before dinner at Harborside Inn: award-winning chowder & other excellent seafood. Not too busy on the island after the summer season. This place closes for the season after lunch tomorrow; our waiter is very pleased to be heading back to Brazil and his girlfriend. Strolling after dinner, nice fireworks from the nearby town beach (Marjorie doesn’t believe I arranged this for her birthday). Into Blue Dory Inn for a chat w/the owner, a friend of a friend. We end a long day by taking ice cream back to our Inn.

Sun., 9/19:

Breakfast at the Inn, chatting with friendly other guests. Not so much storm here Thurs. and Fri. as in Albany (wind, but not much rain), Floyd passed to the west over land. Another beautiful day today and a bit warmer. I packed very light (in case we couldn’t get the car over) for cooler weather, but buy BI t-shirt to be more comfortable. Into Old Harbor to walk around, views of old Victorian-style hotels from the breakwater. A stop at a little “Animal Farm” by the Manisses Hotel w/ an odd assortment of emus, llamas, deer, Scottish Highland cattle, “fainting” goats, etc.. Then past the school that covers everything K-12 for the 8-900 year-round residents. Over for Mass, but our schedule is outdated and people are leaving from the only Mass of the day. Oh well, good intentions.

Instead we head up for a walk along the beach to North Lighthouse. Marjorie chats with another couple about Tanglewood (her t-shirt), they find an anemone for her (and she gives me some shells). We also find a little starfish that we return to the sea. Lots of rose hips here, they taste a little like tomatoes.

Lunch at Finn’s on the harbor: more good seafood and tasty bread. Afterward some relaxation at the Inn. I go for another drive to see more countryside. Into Old Harbor for dinner at Ballard’s Inn. We give a ride to a couple staying at our Inn who are tired from biking and walking (it’s pretty hilly on the island). Pretty harbor views as the sun sets, drinks outside overlooking pretty good-sized surf on the beach. More good seafood inside, then treats for later in our room (including mud pie ice cream recommended by our waitress at Finn’s).

Mon., 9/20:

Another pretty day, sunny & warmer w/ some clouds. After breakfast we drive to the town beach area, a stop to get a loaf of the yummy bread we’d had at the Inn. We poke around Old Harbor. Made reservations for the 3:00 ferry when we came over, but are able to get on the 11:45 (our pre-Floyd plan) when a large truck cancels. A last seafood lunch at Pt. Judith. We’ve had a real seafood festival: chowders & bisques (with, of course, oyster crackers), clams (fried, cakes, and “stuffies”), scallops, lobster salad, salmon, shrimp. An uneventful ride home; as usual, Marjorie misses most of the ride to & from while snoozing. One interesting sight: a pink Cadillac convertible pulling an Airstream. Home to cloudy skies, rain in the evening. And a still damp, smelly carpet in the basement. But it didn’t “dampen” our enthusiasm for the weekend getaway.

More New England & Northeast

Having lived in Albany NY since 1974, we’ve done lots of traveling around New England and other neighboring states. Much of this has been short trips, not so much “journal worthy,” but here are some accounts.

Martha’s Vineyard (1977):

We’re joined on a short jaunt to Martha’s Vineyard by my Mom, stepfather Bill, and stepsis Mar. A busy ferry over.

we have an apartment in a complex overlooking Vineyard Haven, w/ a nice pool enjoyed by all.

Beach time especially enjoyed by little Matthew (1½).

We explore Oak Bluffs, w/ pretty gingerbread houses from an old Methodist camp (Bill’s a Methodist minister), and Edgartown.

Brightly colored bluffs and lighthouse at Gay Head.

Other pretty views around the island.

On the ferry back little Matt makes friends with a little girl.

Cape Cod (1982):

Our later stay on Cape Cod includes Marjorie’s Uncle Bill. On the way we locate Men of Kent cemetery and the grave of my ancestor Matthew Gannett outside of Scituate MA; according to a family genealogy “Uncle Matt” voyaged to the Plymouth colonies in about 1638.

A couple of other stops on the way out to the Cape: Plimouth Plantation

Plymouth Rock & the Mayflower

and a cemetery rising above.

Then onto the Cape and our motel near Salt Pond and Chatham.

We stroll pretty beach dunes and marshy areas

and join a campfire on the beach near a lighthouse.

Stops on the way back at Battleship Cove in Fall River MA, where Matt enjoys climbing around on the artillery

& Newport w/ views of the “cottages” along the coast

Cape Ann (1991):

By 1991 Matt’s busy w/ summer music programs, but Uncle Bill continues to be a loyal trip companion. After a stop in Gloucester we settle into a pretty B & B, Old Farm Inn.

We're outside of Rockford (w/ its classic harbor & red shed, “Motif #1” as it’s known by photographers & painters).

Uncle Bill & I go whale-watching.

We all tour Hammond Castle on a drizzly/foggy day.

Looking around shops in town and good seafood dining.

A stop at Concord and Minuteman Natl Hist Park on the way home.

While we’re in the vicinity, I’ll note that we’ve made some visits to Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts.

Cape May (1996):

Cape May isn’t really New England, but close enough. With Uncle Bill again. Thru Atlantic City (not that impressive) and down the Jersey coast, a stop to see “Lucy” elephant statue at Margate.

Pretty beach and Victorian houses in Cape May. An evening Ghost Tour. Of course, we have to have breakfast at Uncle Bill’s Pancake House.

Leamings Run Gardens and Farm.

North toward Philadelphia via Brandywine River Museum, and a visit to Longwood Gardens.

A good hotel location in central Philly to explore downtown & historic areas.

Penn’s Landing and a ferry ride (w/ pretty city views) to NJ Aquarium and Maritime Museum.

On to pretty Bucks County and 1740 House lodging in a park-like setting, deer spotted in the evening along the road. Washington Crossing Wildflower Preserve, a winery stop, Peddler’s Village, lots of mostly middle-aged motorcyclists congregated in one town.

Amish Country (1983):
An earlier trip into the same territory included Marjorie's Mom and the 7-year-old Matt. It began with our first visit to Longwood Gardens.

Then into & Amish country around Lancaster PA, including a RR ride in Strasburg.

Poconos (1989):

I took some kidding for planning a short trip to the Poconos, but it was a nice relaxing visit that included Uncle Bill. Strolling on Pocono Knob, a short hike to Bushkill Falls and a view of Delaware River Gap,