Rambling with Russ: Utah and Other Western

Utah (Mostly)

June 1997

My father bought a travel trailer for a trip out West, but cancer took him so he never lived that dream. My first big travel after childhood, perhaps living my father’s dream, was a whirlwind Western trip with long-time friend Carl in college (see more on this below). Marjorie & I have covered some of that territory (Yellowstone, Grand Canyon) in more leisurely fashion (we’ve joked about saying “There’s the . . . “ while whizzing by sights), and we’ll revisit (for me) some of the spectacular sights in Utah on this trip.

Wed., June 11:

Flights from Albany to Chicago and Chicago to Salt Lake City on time, arriving about 2:30. Pretty views landing of the Great Salt Lake, our first look at the colored countryside, snow-capped mountains surrounding the city. Pick up our car at the airport, '97 Taurus w/ power windows/locks/seats, cruise control, etc. Very comfortable & reliable for the trip, efficient air-conditioner. Weather here not as hot as Albany (about 80), but unusually humid, for them anyway.

We head right to Sonia's house (a former student who's now on the faculty at Univ. of Utah). They've had quite a bit of rain recently, Sonia's back yard flooded! A nice new house, view of the mountains, populated by her very friendly dog (white Chow named Buddha), cooled by a "swamp cooler." The latter used here instead of AC to cool w/ humidity. For dinner up one of the canyons (passing quite a few joggers and bikers) to Log Haven, beautiful setting in the mountains and excellent food. Mountains very pretty as the sun lowers while we drive back. Mountains very close and accessible to the city. Sonia & I watch the Jazz-Bulls game, Marjorie dozes. There's lots of spirit here: signs, grass cut in a Jazz design, etc.

Thurs., June 12:

A nice morning, cool w/ sun/clouds mix, tho occasional lightning and thunder around. We take a 45-minute tour of Temple Square led by two Mormon "sisters;" interesting and informative w/ a little prosyletizing. The Square is very pretty, /lovely grounds, flowers, fountains, sculptures, /murals. Can’t see the Temple interior, only members "in good standing" allowed in. It's clear the Mormons dominate politically and culturally, even more in smaller cities & towns than in Salt Lake. They're very nice, friendly people, but our discussions with Sonia and others indicate their views seem pretty authoritarian & patriarchal.
Pretty views of the capitol.

Over to see the Salt Palace (local arena). Rocky (Marjorie's office mate) performed in Salt Lake as a member of the Ice Capades, said they used the ceiling for views of the spaceship in “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” But the arena he'd been in was taken down 4-5 years ago (or maybe the aliens came and took it back) ̶ they'll be building another for upcoming Olympics.

After walking thru the Mormon office building where geneological research is done (beautiful old lobby and a room filled with people at workstations looking up "ancestors"),

to the observation deck on the 26th floor of another church office building for overview of the square and views of the city & surrounding mountains. To the university to meet Sonia after she finishes giving an exam. Weather becomes cloudier & cooler (mid-60s), I switch from shorts to jeans and we all use jackets. Brunch at Ruth's Diner (which we've learned is now featured in a VISA commercial ̶ you know, "they don't take American Express"), an interesting local hangout in one of the canyons recommended by Rocky.

Then we head up to Park City, one of the ski areas. We'd planned to go to Snowbird, with an aerial tram, but the weather didn't look promising (low clouds & occasional light rain). Pretty sagebrush & flowers along the road, plenty of condo construction. A walk along Main Street, poking thru shops and helping a man who was leaving a trail of potatoes dropping out of his bag.

Back to Sonia's with a stop at the capitol, in an elevated location w/ lovely flowers (I'm going to be using pretty/lovely/beautiful a lot in describing this trip, or else overwork my thesaurus) and views of the mountains.

To the Tabernacle (still a bit cold & rainy) for rehearsal of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir; beautiful music preparing for their Father's Day radio concert and well-attended. Their rehearsals and concerts are free. The Tabernacle isn’t an impressive building, but acoustics are excellent, as demonstrated by a guide dropping pins during our tour earlier. Later Sonia fixes dinner for us and a friend.

Fri., June 13:

Cloudy & and cool (50s), light rain on & off as we leave early AM, driving over the mountains to Heber City for breakfast, then a few miles toward Wasatch Mtn State Park, pretty sage & mountain views despite the drippy weather. The road goes thru Provo Canyon, we take a short detour to Sundance, Robert Redford's resort but he isn't around. Lots of construction and new tunnels along the road, but luckily no blasting yet that might have delayed us. A stop at Bridal Veil Falls, but the aerial tram is closed (no luck with trams on this trip), doesn't seem that impressive anyway. This puts us ahead of schedule, and we generally find we can cover ground quicker than anticipated, not surprising when you can usually go 60-65 on 2-lane roads & 75+ on interstates. The drive through Provo, Price, Green River to Moab is very pretty ̶ still cloudy, but brighter & occasional sun w/ lots of buttes, sage, etc. along the way. Nicer weather as we near Moab, warmer (shorts again).

Check into the Bowen Motel, then out to Arches National Park for a couple of hours. A break for dinner (in a restaurant high above overlooking Moab), then back out to Arches. This is a stunning area, such a variety of arches and other rock formations, colors, vistas (including the snow-capped La Sal Mtns in the distance). Shifting lighting conditions add to the variety. We especially like the evening, softer light and a layering effect as the sun moves in & out. This was our biggest driving day, we can feel it in our legs by the end of the day. We (or I, anyway) watch the Jazz lose the series to the Bulls, then out for ice cream; we have to go to 3 places, Moab doesn't seem to have a big nightlife.

Sat., June 14:

We were supposed to take a "jet boat" trip on the Colorado River (Adrift Adventures) this AM, but told the river is too high w/ too much debris. Offered a whitewater rafting trip, but we’re too chicken. Instead a 4-wheel-drive "backcountry" tour into Canyonlands Nat'l Park that proves to be one of the highlights of the trip. Our Suburban w/ "off-road package" takes us on a roller-coaster ride, up & down 2000', thru several canyons, across slickrock areas, on bad roads and no roads (we can’t believe the terrain this vehicle can get through) ̶ all 6 of us (but especially Marjorie) whooping & hollering. The tour is led by a former park superintendant who knows everything! Lots of interesting vegetation ̶ cliff rose that smells like cinnamon, prickly pear cactus, primrose, juniper ̶ plus rabbits & big-horn sheep. Also remains of old uranium mines (potash is also big around here), lots of mountain bikers (Moab is a center for this), Indian petroglyphs.

The scenery is incredible everywhere around Moab. This area has been used for lots of commercials and movies; e.g., Thelma and Louise, City Slickers II, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, The Greatest Story Ever Told, many John Wayne flicks. After light lunch at Slick Rock Cafe in town, we wander around Moab and its nice shops; we buy a tie tack (for me) and some ornaments w/ the image of Kokopelli, an impish character from Indian legends that is omnipresent around here. Marjorie also finds some beautiful silver bracelets. After a generally cloudy & cool morning (appreciated for the backcountry ride), the PM has beautiful sunshine & temps in the 80s (for the first time on the trip). Relaxation in the room for a while mid-afternoon, I watch U.S. Open golf.

M stays in Moab to relax and see some more of the town, I head out to Dead Horse Point State Park (named for past use of this promontory, obviously not always successful, as a natural corral). A panoramic Grand Canyon-type view of the Colorado River twisting thru Canyonlands; one oddity: bright blue areas in the distance that I learn from park rangers (one of whom we'd seen in the AM driving her brother around the backcountry in a jeep) are evaporation ponds for a potash plant.

After dinner at Fat City Smokehouse, a local hangout w/ good food, a drive along the Colorado River, a view of petroglphs. Voracious mosquitoes try to devour us (they hadn't been out earlier in the day) and are in turn being devoured by lots of swallows. RVs camping along the river & rock climbers (how do they deal with the mosquitoes at night?). Dessert at an old-fashioned soda fountain in the back of a t-shirt shop. We really like Moab ̶ very friendly & easygoing. A report on TV that Las Vegas today set a record low for high temperature, only 72. Will it last? ̶ see later in this account.

Sun., June 15:

A gorgeous morning: bright sun, incredibly blue sky, puffy white clouds. After breakfast outside at Jailhouse Cafe (used to be the town courthouse & jail, now serves breakfast only), we take a road along the Colorado River for about 40 miles, pretty views of canyon walls, surrounding countryside, people in rafts.

We make good time thru Green River, a stop at the John Wesley Powell River Museum, to Capitol Reef Nat'l Park. Pretty deer (or maybe antelope, as a friend who grew up in Montana later tells me from its coloration ̶ I guess they both "play on the range") near the road.

Capitol Reef has wonderful colored vistas that change with the lighting, orchards along the Fremont River, quite tame mule deer, more Indian petroglyphs, lots of flowers (especially clumps of delicate yellow flowers clustered among the red rocks).

All the parks have been more spectacular and diverse than expected; each quite distinctive and worthy of a vacation in itself. And drives between them have also been beautiful, even if it's "unofficial" scenery. Marjorie plays "Stump the Ranger" w/ questions about vegetation (like "Mormon Tea") that had him looking things up in books w/ titles like "Weeds of the West."

Our motel in Torrey (aptly-named Wonderland Inn) on a bluff overlooking the area in all directions. Out looking for someplace interesting for Father's Day dinner, we find one about 8 miles away in Bicknell: Aquarius Cafe, good home cookin' and plenty of it, walls covered w/ "curiosities" (including a Buffalo head wearing a Rex Harrison hat right behind M/), a sassy waitress w/ a good sense of humor.

Back to the motel past fields full of irrigation "geysers" pretty in the lowering sun (which doesn't set around here until about 9:00). Still lots of stuff about the Jazz on TV, radio, papers ̶ imagine if they’d won! We also seem to be encountering lots of German tourists, from bus tours to backpackers.

Mon., June 16:

Another nice morning, views all around. After breakfast at the motel, over the mountains toward Bryce, pretty aspens & flowers along the road. We’re disbelieving of "open range" signs at these higher elevations until we come upon a cattle drive coming up the road toward the higher meadows ̶ cows, bulls, calves, cowboys/girls/kids/dogs. We’re surrounded as they go by us on both sides. A great experience that reminds us of Ireland, tho bigger and noisier than sheep. After the mountains we drive thru beautiful colored country, including part of the new Escalante Staircase National Monument (or some such name). It’s hard to hold radio stations here and thru most of the trip, with all the mountains and canyons ̶ and lots of country music, not our first choice, but “when in Rome.” We reach Bryce Canyon Nat'l Park about noon. A picture postcard day! They'd had storms yesterday, frequent rain the last two weeks.

The scenic vistas are spectacular, we spent the rest of the day and next morning at elevations of 8-9,000 feet. A drive along the length of the 20-mile scenic drive, several stops at viewpoints, a short walk down the Queens Garden and Navaho Loop trails ̶ striking rock formations ("hoodoos"), lots of birds (including swallows & some teal-colored jays). A bit busier here than at other places we've been, but still not at all crowded.

We stay in the "Sunset Unit", a nice rustic building near the main lodge that reminds us of our chaperone experiences with Matt's youth orchestra at Frost Valley in the Catskills (tho the accomodations here are much nicer!). In late afternoon Marjorie does some laundry, making new friends, including a woman who grew up in Schenectady.

I celebrate my 50th birthday with an excellent dinner in the lodge. Sneaky Marjorie had called months earlier to make some arrangements, but they didn't all pan out. We do get the "honeymoon table" by the window and a birthday card had arrived from stepsis Mar, but other cards haven’t arrived, there’s no candle on my "Bryceberry" dessert, and the staff don't sing to me. Oh well, it’s still a great place for my BD. And as Mar so thoughtfully noted in her card, it’s nice to be at a place even older than I (I'm not really older than dirt!). A quick drive at sunset looking for wildlife, but only a solitary mule deer. After a nice birthday call from Mom & stepfather Bill, we drive to an overlook for moonlight views at 10:00. This was an excellent idea of Marjorie's, one of many on the trip ̶ we have a division of labor, I planning the broad parameters, M helping to fill in details. The view is incredible, even tho the moon is only about 2/3 full. Many, many very bright stars, an other-worldly view of the canyon. Speaking of other worlds, while I set up to take time-exposure pictures, Marjorie spots what seem to be UFOs! A triangle of blinking lights that seem stationary, then move quickly. When they get closer to the moon we can see jet trails. Oh well, nobody would have believed us anyway.

Tues., June 17:

Up to see 6am sunrise from Bryce Point w/ about 15-20 others in clear and cold (probably 40s) weather. Watching the light illuminate and spread down the canyon is a fabulous experience, bringing memories of sunrises on other trips at the Grand Canyon & Haleakala. On the way to the sunrise Marjorie found a wallet on the ground: lots of cash, credit cards, license, etc., and a hotel registration card indicating a room in our unit. When we get back she takes it up to their room, but the woman who'd lost it seems quite blase about the whole thing! After breakfast a wait for the Post Office to open in the lodge, lots of birthday cards have arrived, so my celebration is complete.

After leaving Bryce thru Red Canyon and then south toward Zion. More pretty views all along the road ̶ you can't avoid them in Utah. Roadwork in several places, including one 15-minute delay; we chat with a young women holding the flag who has a sister in Syracuse and didn't much like her one visit to New York City.

On to Zion Nat'l Park w/ striking colors (even the road is red) and beautiful canyon along the Virgin River. But it’s very hot in the canyon (100+) and very crowded. The only real crowds we encounter, and we can’t figure out why Zion is so much busier than other parks. After a light lunch at Zion Lodge we walk around that area. We give up on some other trails because it’s so hot and can’t find parking nearby, finally deciding to head to our motel (Singletree Inn) in St. George.

After a little relaxing to cool off, north to a separate section of Zion (Kolob Canyons) that we like much better; cooler because of higher elevation and hardly any other people. This part of the park is distinctive in its own right, "finger canyons" of red-orange rocks & panoramic views of the high country. St. George is in desert country surrounded by red cliffs (what else!), caters to tourists, retirees, and especially golfers (our motel boasts of being w/in 10 minutes of 7 golf courses). This area labels itself "Dixie" (Dixie College, Dixie National Forest, Dixie Bowl . . . you get the idea), partly because of its southern Utah location and apparently partly because of its role as a cotton-growing area in the Civil War. Temps reaching 100 are sure hot enough, after a week of cooler and occasionally wetter weather and after a much cooler start to the day. M bought some bottled water at the start of the trip that we've kept filled in the car, and we've been drinking lots of water in the dry air out here. We're also finding that our clothes don't last as long in these hotter temps as on the earlier part of the trip. Dinner at Sizzler salad bar, just right for hot/tired/hungry travellers.

A drive around town in the evening. Once you get away from the tourist strip, it's a very pretty place, neat manicured and very green lawns. The first Mormon temple in Utah is here, gleaming white w/ lovely grounds (including flowers with a couple of hummingbirds), less like a cathedral than the one in Salt Lake. There's also a tabernacle made of red sandstone w/ a tall white steeple.

Marjorie spots a bluff w/h fancy houses, so up we go for a view of the city, red cliffs & mountains in the background as the sun goes down. Between this and Bryce Canyon moonlight views, I can see I'll have to keep M as my photographer's helper. We share our motel room with a cricket, giving it an outdoorsy ambiance (we find the critter in the AM ̶ about an inch long).

Wed., June 18:

A sunny & not-yet-hot AM, free continental breakfast at the motel. We had decided yesterday to skip a planned stop at the Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, didn't sound that appealing in the heat, to Hoover Dam instead. Past a "planned community" along the highway that’s nothing but empty lots w/ little piles of dirt ̶ how lovely! Also encounter casinos right away in Mesquite after crossing into Nevada. A side road to Overton Beach for a 1^st view of Lake Mead (water temp: 75). The drive is scenic, but Marjorie is losing interest ̶ she's Las Vegas-bound!

More views of Lake Mead (very blue), then a quick look at Hoover Dam. Too hot to spend much time here. A buffet lunch at a casino right outside Hoover Dam (casinos are everywhere here). A security person tells me you can take photos in the slot machine areas, but not around the "cage" (where money is handled) or the "pit" (live games, like blackjack and roulette). It’s clearly wise not to test this rule.

On to Las Vegas ̶ high today 106!!, low 80, even the "breezes" are hot (though many of the casinos spray a light mist over the entrance to cool you a bit). As Las Vegas first comes into view, Marjorie goes into a sneezing fit. We both have times on the trip when the "weeds of the West" affect us. First stop the Liberace Museum.

A very interesting collection of fabulous pianos, cars, wardrobe, jewelry, etc. He sure knew how to spend money. And wouldn't you know that one person behind us feels compelled to reach over the ropes and actually play one of the antique pianos! The security people put a quick stop to that, suggesting he "do his practicing at home." Then to our motel (Center Strip Inn), located right in the heart of "The Strip" next to construction for a new Bellagio hotel/casino. Our place is not a casino, quite modest but nice accomodations ̶ tho very ugly lamps. The location is excellent, short walks in either direction to the major casinos, the price is right ($29.98 w/ free continental breakfast and a 2-for-1 coupon at nearby all-you-can-eat buffet for dinner). At first they give us a room on the 5th floor, but after we discover the elevator isn't working they move us to a 2nd-floor room (whew!).

We walk about a block down the Strip to Caesar's Palace. Each casino/hotel has its own ambience, sort of a Disney World for adults (though there’s also much more here now for families). Caesar's Palace has lots of fountains at the entrance, gods & goddesses (well, I guess just very attractive young men & women wandering around in skimpy togas), statues, murals, etc.

We wander thru the Forum Shops, very pricey stores, watch a fountain show w/ animated statues & lasers. Then to the Mirage (next door to Caesar's), where we see one of the white tigers from Siegfried & Roy (their show costs about $80 ̶ no, we don't go), a pretty atrium and large fish tank in the lobby.

After a brief stop back at the motel, and an unsuccessful attempt to contact Rocky's cousin (head of security at the Maxim), we use our dinner buffet coupon at the Holiday Inn Boardwalk (just up the Strip in the other direction); we beat the crowd for a quiet & relaxing meal. We're not the "high rollers" this town is hoping to attract ̶ we manage to lose about $12 at the slot machines during our stay, but make up for it with the inexpensive and free things Las Vegas offers to entice you here. In addition to our inexpensive room, we calculate the two of us ate three full meals today (including buffets for lunch & dinner) for less than $15. Of course, we also bought frequent cold drinks and a couple of ice cream cones.

After dinner to the MGM casino. Unable to find the trademark several-story-high lion at the entrance or the many-story replica of the Emerald City. A friendly security guy says both are gone, victims of a $700 million (!) expansion that's now under construction. Across the street to Excalibur to watch Merlin battle a dragon in the moat, one of the free "shows" along the Strip. Excalibur is especially pretty in the evening when the castle towers are lighted.

We also see the Luxor (w/ sphinx and pyramid) and New York-New York which includes replicas (several stories high) of the Statue of Liberty, Empire State Building, Brooklyn Bridge, etc., plus a rollercoaster running through these. It's also pretty when lighted at night.

In fact, as the sun goes down (and temps became more bearable), Las Vegas really comes alive, fabulous lights all along the Strip and more crowds on the street. We drive to the old "casino center" downtown to see the Fremont Street Experience, an enjoyable light & music show in a canopy covering the pedestrian mall for several blocks. The drive also gives us good views all along the Strip, including a number of wedding chapels (such as "Graceland") and some sleazier "adult entertainment" areas. After returning to our motel, I go out to take more pictures along the Strip until about midnight ̶ still lots of people out.

Thurs., June 19:

Already hot by 8:00. We manage to reach Rocky's cousin for a brief chat. After breakfast at the motel, to the airport (slot machines there, too!) for the next leg of the trip ̶ a family wedding! Our flight to Dallas has nice views of Hoover Dam, Lake Mead, and the Grand Canyon. The plane is at first too cold (haven't had that problem in a while), much searching for blankets. When our flight is delayed in Dallas we volunteer to be "bumped" for $200 vouchers and a later flight, but at the last minute we aren't needed. So we take our commuter flight to Houston, a nice view of the skyline coming into Hobby airport. I’m tired & crabby, but Marjorie’s nice enough to put up with me. We pick up another car (Plymouth Breeze, which I don't like as much as the Taurus, head for the motel brother Doug had arranged for the wedding (Westchase Hilton). I don't much like driving around Houston. I’d become used to shifting on the steering wheel, so I keep washing the windshield because that’s on the steering wheel). And I head in the wrong direction a couple of times, after driving all thru Utah w/out any missteps. But we finally manage to reach the Rineharts about 9:45 for a family gathering, meeting Stephanie and her family, the Wards and the Jessops (my Mom & stepfather Bill).

Fri., June 20:

I sleep past 9:30! Marjorie goes to the "bride's luncheon," the rest of us to a Chili's for lunch. Afterward, M & I drive to the Galleria mall, complete with a skating rink and large Nieman Marcus store, to walk around and stretch our legs. It's very humid here, afternoon showers every day. We decide we prefer the drier air, even if hotter, of Utah & Nevada. An excellent rehearsal dinner at Brennan's (another branch of the Brennan family of New Orleans). Stephanie's father (a physicist w/ Exxon ̶ what a wedding, a merger of Dow (Doug) and Exxon!) reads a clever love poem "translated" into science jargon. It ends something like: "and I will love you until someone computes the last digit of pi." Get it? We have a good time being the drivers for Ann's Uncle Bob & Aunt Shirley, real fun people, and sitting w/ her cousin Karen & partner Wayne from Seattle (one of our favorite places).

Sat., June 21:

We join the Wards & Jessops for breakfast buffet at the hotel, Ann makes a remark that includes me and "grizzled" in the same sentence ̶ hmmm. After Marjorie & I make a quick trip to a Pier 1 nearby, we head for Greg Steph's wedding. A nice, simple church ceremony ̶ Grandpa Bill (a Methodist minister) especially enjoys officiating for grandson Greg ̶ followed by a lovely reception a few miles away. Of course, with our family there are lots of photographers capturing the event. Even Marjorie has gotten into the photography swing by now; she takes 2 rolls of pictures during the trip. Then a nice evening gathering in Doug & Ann's hotel suite. We watch out the window as a ferocious storm blows through (6-8" of rain in the area). This has been a really nice wedding gathering ̶ good decompression from the trip, nothing we have to do except relax, eat, and socialize. We particularly enjoy getting reacquainted with or meeting a lot of Ann's relatives, a lively & friendly group. A number of us trade e-mail addresses ̶ how modern! The evening's activities continue to the hotel restaurant w/ Ann's brother Gene, cousin Dan, Karen & Wayne.

Sun., June 22:

Three more flights today to get home (Houston to Dallas to Chicago to Albany), for a total of seven flights on the trip! Plus we drove about 1500 miles. In order to get most of this flying free on American's frequent flyer program (actually, our "frequent credit card" program), we had to route our return thru Dallas as a "stopover," then pay for commuter flights between Dallas & Houston. The final flight is a "bistro" flight. No, we don't dine outside on the wing ̶ we each pick up a bag meal (sandwich, cookie, etc) from a cooler as we board. The flight passes over Niagara Falls and a closeup view of the SUNY campus as we come in. After some minor delays, only about 30 minutes late at 8pm. A lovely, cool evening in Albany. A great trip, but we’re ready to be home. And our feline housemate, Hobbles, obviously appreciates having us back.

Go West, Young Men

Summer 1967

As noted earlier, I undertook a rather whirlwind Western trip during college with my good friend Carl. We were perhaps a bit crazy, and my mother was crazy enough to "enable" us by loaning her car and taking my older one (which did break down a couple of times for her!) while we were traveling . We covered 6500 miles in 12 days, 16 states plus Ontario, Canada. First leg was from our homes in Rochester NY to Midland MI to visit my recently wed brother Doug & sister-in-law Ann. I'll pick it up after we left there, heading into the Midwest and across South Dakota. (Note: these images are resurrected from old prints)