Rhine River Cruise

Cruisin’ on the Rhine

June 2003

Friday, 6/6:

            We had received some info in the mail out of the blue about European river cruises.  Rather a splurge for us but very enticing, so like last summer’s trip to Central Europe we gathered our own mini-group: brother Doug & wife Ann again, Ann’s Uncle Harry, Diane & Jerry (Wisconsin friends now living in Santa Fe).  Excitement built when Viking River Cruise (VRC) “documents” arrived.  Even our AAA agent Jenny was impressed with how classy they were and the attention to detail, wants to hear all about it.  Are we worthy to board?  We head to NYC, find parking right in front of Matt and Anthea’s in Astoria (our son and his fiancee).  Anthea takes Marjorie up on a shopping offer, asking for a special European bath gel.  We walk by pretty rose gardens in their neighborhood to the subway.  Dinner in a Japanese restaurant before Matt and 2 other percussionists accompany a Chinese dance company for their 25^th anniversary.  A very interesting performance. 

Saturday, Sunday 6/7-8:

           After a local Greek breakfast w/ Matt & Anthea (pretty cosmopolitan, huh?  ̶  Japanese, Chinese, Greek, then off to Europe), Matt takes us to JFK early to avoid possible Belmont traffic (NY-bred Funny Cide is trying for the Triple Crown this PM).  Heavy rain, not much traffic, terminal almost empty when we arrive.  Air France flight leaves on time a little after 5.  Some free wine to relax.  Arrive Paris early at 5:30am.  Pretty sky, scattered thunderstorms & sunrise.  1-hour connecting flight arrives Basel about 9.  We and several other VRC cruisers met by Tour Manager Yvette & other staff who welcome and shepherd us efficiently thru customs to take us to the ship.  A hitch, tho: one of our 2 (very efficiently packed!) bags didn’t arrive.  Apparently it’s not uncommon, we’re assured all will be taken care of.  Sunny & very warm, becoming very humid in the PM.  Too early to occupy our cabin, so I take a quick stroll into the city, discover that PostoMat is not an ATM (no trouble finding ATMs to get local currency after this).  Light lunch on the ship, then a 10-15 minute walk into the city.   

 First views of Marktplatz (main square), Rathaus (town hall), Barfusserplatz (“barefoot square,” so-named after Franciscans).  Into Puppenhausmuseum, an interesting collection of all sorts and sizes of teddy bears, dolls, and miniatures.  Basel & other cities on the tour have so many museums it’s overwhelming.  We generally don’t go to “fine arts” museums (plenty of those in NY, don’t you know), instead using our time for more unusual spots.  

Basel’s a beautiful city: figures on building facades, flowered windows, lovely squares.  But it’s Sunday and a holiday, so stores are closed  ̶  are they barbarians? 

  Back to the ship where the rest of our group arrives on time and we can go to our cabins.  Doug comes out w/ our missing bag delivered to their room  ̶  too many Wards!  The other bag turns out to have gotten wet (probably sitting in New York rain), but the staff graciously puts our wet stuff in their dryers. We return later to find everything clean & folded on our bed. Marjorie loves Viking!

Our cabin seems roomy enough, tho we could use more hangers and drawers.  We (and Harry) are on the Main deck, the lowest (and half is for crew) w/ half windows right at water level (actually, an interesting perspective).  Others of our group are on the Mitteldeck, with bigger windows.  We hope they’ll be willing to associate with residents of Bilgewater Estates.  Not very interesting TV: CNN and CNBC for European and business news, Eurosports and travel channels, 2 German channels, plus some videos (movies like “Lawrence of Arabia” & “Catch Me If You Can,” info about VRC cruises).  Daily on-board newsletter outlines next day’s activities, gives background info about places along the way.  Occasionally English-language newspapers are available at the reception desk to share.  American sports news hard to come by.  We learn eventually that Funny Cide didn’t win the Belmont.  Biggest sports news here during the tour is sale of soccer star Beckham from Manchester United to Real Madrid for $41 million.

            Embarkation reception to explain some of the routines.  We learn the itinerary will be altered because work on locks prevents cruising on the Moselle (Mosel in German).  This causes some consternation, but we think things were worked out OK (details to follow).  No lifeboat drill: the Rhine (Rhein) isn’t very deep, so just go to the top deck (guess that’s the drawback for those of us in the bilge).  Our first dinner: rack of lamb or halibut.  Dinners generally have 4 courses, a choice on each, and sensible portions thruout so you don’t feel too gluttonous.  Chef Karl-Heinz has a continental style w/ nice presentation.  Varied entrees  ̶  veal, lamb, duck, various fish  ̶  or you can opt for a more standard meal like steak or chicken any night.  Chef is very friendly, often chatting at tables at the end of meals.  Dinner usually doesn’t end until 9-9:30, when it’s still light out.

           

Monday, 6/9:

            Fresher, more clouds to start; sunny & quite warm (mid-80s?) in PM.  Our first breakfast buffet: many options, from cereal to eggs & pancakes, other items can be special ordered.  As instructed we leave keys at reception desk so they’ll know who’s off the ship.  AM bus and walking tour with local guide. 

City is still very quiet, shops and some museums still closed for the holiday.  We especially enjoy the pretty cloister of the Münster.  We also learn water in fountains is OK to drink unless a sign says otherwise (comes in handy on hot days).  Doug & I head off after the tour, first to a fountain by Tinguely, local sculptor known for mechanical moving constructions; but the water isn’t on today.  

Such a nice city to stroll; in addition to some 30 museums, lots of “public art”: fountains and sculptures, interesting architecture, even pretty yellow & green trolleys.  Into the pretty courtyard and entry area of Kunstmuseum, with Calder and Rodin sculptures.   

Then across the river to “Lesser Basel”: nice views of the Münster and a pretty riverside promenade.  We cross back over on an interesting ferry: no motor, it’s attached to a line above the river using the proper angle to allow the current to push the boat across.  A number of men floating downriver on the current; we saw similar in Luzerne, must be a Swiss thing.  Back to the ship for light buffet lunch in the lounge; table service available in downstairs dining room, but better views in the lounge.

            Back into town w/ Marjorie, Jerry, & Diane, to St. Johann’s Gate and thru a pretty park area by the hospital (mistaking it for the university’s botanical garden).  The rest head back to the ship, I head for Spalentor (old city gate).  In the process I stumble upon the actual botanical garden, and am able to later direct a fellow passenger to it.  More wandering: pretty buildings, window boxes, gardens, gates.  

 Back to the ship for a short nap before our first cruising begins.  Past industrial areas as we leave Basel, many swans at one shore.  Also a spot where Switzerland, Germany, France all meet.  The ship really moves along, kicking up a good wake, but I don’t think we’ll be waterskiing.  Thru our first (of 15) locks, discovering you get baptized by river water from the gates if you stay on top while the ship leaves a lock.  Captain’s Reception w/ more info and intros, including Gitomar, our all-purpose musician w/ synthesizer, trumpet, singing.  A bit fancier dinner tonight (I wear my jacket but not tie), a special 5 courses from pate & oxtail soup to multiple dessert plate.  We reach Breisach (on the Germany/France border) at 11:30; pretty lighted cathedral on the hill above (I’m asleep, but Marjorie goes up on deck to enjoy the view). The big news today seems to be Britain rejecting the euro, Poland voting to join the European Union. 

            Some details about our ship, Viking Danube, built in 1999.  Passenger capacity is 148 in 75 cabins, but only 104 on our trip.  Powered by Caterpillar engines (M’s Uncle Bill will be proud  ̶  he works for a Cat dealer), cruising speed is 25 km/hr.  Very smooth, quiet ride, even in the low-rent cabins.  The ship can be maneuvered very precisely: squeezing into locks w/ other ships, turning around for docking, able to make an emergency stop in 1½ lengths.  There are km markings along each shore (like the Thruway), so we can keep track of where we are w/ a book that details the Rhine km by km.  We’re all from US, Canada, and (a few) Great Britain.  This ship was marketed to break into the American market (hence the mailing we got that stimulated this adventure), but it would have been interesting to have more diversity among passengers; and we’d prefer less Americanized “elevator music” in the dining room (including a Harry Belafonte Christmas carol!).  2 other couples from the Albany area, another from nearby Pittsfield.  35 crew, mostly from Germany, Netherlands, Slovakia. 

Tuesday, 6/10:

            Sunny AM.  Calm river below a dam, many swans (but none of us remembers what a group of swans is called).  One swan family swims right by our window.  

AM bus tour to the Black Forest (so named by Romans), first thru pretty rural areas of corn and vineyards terraced up steep hills.  The bus squeezes thru pretty towns w/ lots of flowers (what else!) and little gardens.  Up into the mountains, quaint farmhouses, little chapels, sawmills.  Along “clock road,” a center for clockmaking, and a “peepee” stop (as the guide says) at a touristy gift shop (many cuckoo clocks of all sizes) and outdoor cuckoo clock show.  Thru the “valley of hell,” named for its steepness.  Stag statue high above is decorated seasonally by university students (those wacky students are the same everywhere!). 

 Into Freiburg for walking tour and free time.  We happen on a short organ concert in the cathedral, and a pretty local market in surrounding square.  Watch your step around the little drainage canals thruout town.  Back on the bus Ann gets the “first purchase” award, from a fabric store.  Hot again by midday (mid-90s), bad thunderstorms in northern Germany.  We pass many asparagus fields. 

            After lunch Doug & Ann take optional PM excursion to Colmar, a pretty French village.  Lucky there’s no excursion to Marseille  ̶  after a week-long strike, residents have set piles of garbage ablaze.  Marjorie, Diane, & Jerry head into Breisach, I climb many steps to the cathedral w/ views over the town and an interesting interior: elaborately carved wooden altar, faded 15^th C wall paintings.  

 Back into the pretty town where I make my best purchase of the trip: shorts from Woolworth’s (!) for 4.99 euros (hadn’t expected such hot weather, I need something cooler for the sun deck).  Marjorie finds some bath gel, but isn’t sure it’s what Anthea mentioned.  Tea at 4 (every day) w/ yummy pastries.   

At our daily Port Talk, describing activities for the next day, Yvette announces that 10 people exercised on the deck this AM with Tali (one of her assistants), a new record!  She will alert the entire fleet.  We enjoy listening to Yvette’s Port Talk each evening, PA announcements, and narrations; her speech has a pretty rhythm and pronunciation (she’s Dutch).  We cruise during dinner toward Strasbourg, a key French city in the EU; the right shore is Germany, left is France.  French musicians Simone & Andrei (singing & accordions) in the lounge tonight.  CNN reports a French public sector worker strike over pensions today; the Paris metro is shut down.

Wednesday, 6/11:

            We’re docked further away here than most stops, 20-30 minute walk into Strasbourg.  Many swans again.  A bit cloudy at first, then bright sun and not as hot.  Watch out for bike path when leaving the ship!  

 AM bus & walking tour, followed by free time; guide: “time to buy what you need . . . and what you need not.”  (We have very pleasant and informative local guides for these tours along the way.)  Another beautiful and fascinating city.  Pretty residential areas and parks, EU buildings (Strasbourg competes with other cities for EU “business”), many storks nesting in a park and on chimneys. 

Storks appear to be a symbol of the Alsace region.  Many half-timbered houses, pretty windows & facades, lovely narrow streets.  

A beautiful cathedral; scaffolding on the spires  ̶  there’s always work to do!  ̶  but they’ve completed a lot of cleaning of the reddish exterior.  Interesting exterior details, including the apparent European obsession with the devil tempting virgins.  Spectacular stained glass, a variety of styles and eras.  Carved pulpit, where we all pat a little dog for luck.  Fascinating astronomical clock: about 3 stories tall w/ many moving elements.  We stroll with Diane & Jerry into pretty Petite France area of canals, half-timbered houses, shops.

            After lunch Doug & I hike 20 minutes to Parc de l’Orangerie seen from the bus.  Beautiful roses, storks nesting in a little aviary.  We return thru a park near the ship w/ sections from the old citadel, a children’s playground, men playing a version of lawn bowling (we agree that stepfather Bill would have joined right in).  Marjorie & Jerry go to a nearby grocery store where M finds her usual foreign odds & ends, but still no sign of Anthea’s desired bath gel.  Harry finds an internet café and discovers some of the complexities of European computing.  So far most cruising has been during and after dinner; mostly flat countryside, but tonight we’re seeing some hills ahead.  Doug (a Dow retiree) is excited as we pass a Dow storage tank.  Bingo tonight in the lounge!  (We don’t partake.)  Our group gets along well. Diane gives Doug as hard a time as she gives me.  We all enjoy Harry’s continuing quest for internet access.  There is some confusion, tho.  After Diane refers to Marjorie as “the lovely Mrs. Ward,” Doug points out “the other lovely Mrs. Ward.”

Thursday, 6/12: 

            Up earlier (6:30) for a busy day: Speyer to Heidelberg to Worms to Mainz to Rudesheim, heading for the “Romantic Rhine.”  Sunny AM, but hazy & hot by late AM.  CNN reports heavy flooding from storms in northern Europe.  As the bus leaves we pass a big airplane museum  ̶  a Concorde will be coming here soon  ̶  and from a bridge we see our ship depart (hope we find it again).  Past the “capital of asparagus,” guide gives quite a dissertation on growing it.  The rest of our little group is on another bus today, so I’m spared (temporarily) their comments about my asparagus phobia. 

Into Heidelberg, home to the oldest university in Germany (1386) and the inventor of the Bunsen burner (takes me back to my undergrad chemistry days).  Up to castle “ruins” above the city, still very impressive buildings plus panoramic city views.  And the biggest wine cask ever!  Guide says a boat trip by Mark Twain on the Neckar R here was the real inspiration for Huck Finn; farfetched, I’d say.  Into town for walking tour and free time.  Our bus parks by a seniorem centrum (plus I brought along 5 retirees  ̶  as a gerontologist, does this make my trip tax-deductible?).  Our guide isn’t native German, but shows annoyance over some questions from our group: “Are classes taught in German?” “Are Germans less prejudiced now?” 

 Into the city for more pretty streets, squares, shops (especially Christmas stuff).  But Ann suggests we’re spoiled by the shops & prices we encountered in Prague last summer.  Harry is delighted to get 1-hour internet access near the university for 1 euro, including a color printer (he runs off a 5-day forecast of cooler weather). 

           Ice cream (eis) cones on our way to Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost).  A brighter, more open church, an organ lesson going on. Interesting windows: one side traditional, the other very modern.  A pamphlet explains impressionistic montages like the “physics window” w/ its references to Einstein and Hiroshima.  Our bus has to wait for 3 “laggards;” we’re just leaving when someone spots them coming  ̶  it’s clear they won’t hold up the group very long if you’re late (Janka, the other tour assistant, says they should buy drinks for everyone the next time).  On our way, we pass the “largest factory in the world in 1 spot” (40,000 employees) and rendezvous w/ our ship waiting in Worms, next to a huge fairground and promenade. 

Lunch and set sail for Mainz, where we skip the printing museum to wander.  Rathausplatz, with pretty flowers and sculptures  ̶  and very hot!  Into the Dom, which had a major role in early Christianity.  Pretty red stone exterior and very solemn interior.  A burst of organ playing followed by applause  ̶  some visiting group?  Marjorie lights a candle.  Thru a pretty area of shops w/ more modern fountains/sculptures.  A little rain (our first) before dinner.  Yvette is disappointed that numbers are down at the AM excercising  ̶  she keeps (good-naturedly) nagging us about this.  We dock at Rudesheim, a very popular wine village, next to a sister ship, Viking Pride, headed Budapest to Amsterdam.  

 After dinner a short stroll along the shore into town.  Pretty streets, interesting stores.  Famed Drosselgasse lined w/ wine bars & taverns, much music & dancing, but we’re too tired & stomachs too full.  Back to the ship (after waiting for some of the many trains here to pass), vino musica by a local couple in the lounge.  Pretty lighted Rochus Chapel on a hill across river from the ship.

 Today we get details of itinerary changes.  Instead of 2 days cruising the Moselle, a full-day bus tour of the Moselle Valley plus other additions before & after to fill in the schedule (e.g., stops at Mainz, Boppard, Oberwesel, Königswinter, Bonn).  Some disappointment that we’re not cruising that river, some are concerned that the bus day will be too long.  But VRC is certainly trying to give us our money’s worth.  Doug arranges a car rental so he, Ann, & Harry can explore on their own.

Friday, 6/13:

            Our pictures in the lobby from an onboard photographer yesterday.  Would Matt & Anthea like our faces on coasters?  Sunny AM, less hot & humid today.  Into Rudesheim on a little “choo-choo” (commonly used around here for city tours; I tell Yvette I’ll start a rumor that we’re using this for tomorrow’s all-day trip; she doesn’t think that’s such a good idea).  

 A museum of mechanical musical instruments is a fun start to the day.  Intricate mechanisms, beautiful wood cabinets and decorations.  A recording piano  ̶  tho apparently nobody knows how it works  ̶  w/ wax cylinders made by original composers like Debussy.  One instrument has the capacity of 30 musicians, especially percussion instruments; we’re sure percussionist son Matt would not approve!  The oldest part of the building has 16^th C ceiling and wall frescoes.  Guide says it’s been too hot and humid to play some of the instruments; it’s amazing there’s no AC or humidity control to protect them. 

On to the schloss (castle) for tasting, with 3 choices: wines (Reisling around here), coffee w/ brandy & whipped cream (my choice), or grape juice.  A pretty, relaxed setting, yummy drinks.  Diane gets a “dribble cup” leaking from a crack; it’s quickly replaced.  Then we wander thru nice shops: many steins, figurines & dolls, miniatures, clocks, even armor, as well as the usual touristy souvenirs.

Now we’re headed into the heart of the “Romantic Rhine,” a “World Heritage” site.  Beginning in the lounge (don’t miss lunch!), then on the sun deck we listen to Yvette’s narration.  A beautiful PM, bright sun, only a little hazy.  First past Mauseturm (Mouse Tower) with heartwarming backstory of the cruel Archbishop of Mainz being devoured by mice!  Then it’s one castle after another, vineyards spilling down the hills, picturesque villages and churches  ̶  and the occasional mobile home park for postmodern contrast.  

A stop at Oberwesel, our ship’s home port.  A stroll thru a charming residential area w/ old fortification towers, not overwhelmed by tourist trade.  Into Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Dear Lady).  Just when we think, “Why bother?,” this is 1 of the prettiest yet w/ a different style: reddish interior, wall and ceiling paintings, ornate organ pipes way up above.  

And a pretty cemetery, each plot freshly planted today (some special memorial day) as its own garden. 

 Back at the ship we watch a relay line load supplies, having a great time tossing toilet paper from one to another.  4:30-5:30 we cruise the heart of the Rhine gorge, accompanied by Yvette’s continued narration on history, ecology, shipping details (e.g., “BLT” refers to ship markings for breadth/length/tonnage).  

 River’s very busy w/ sightseeing day cruises and many shipping barges (but the boats glide by so quietly), plus trains on both sides,.  Beautiful sun, less hazy  ̶  just about perfect.  Past the Lorelei cliffs, the most dangerous stretch, narrow (120 meters) and deep, with recitation of the legend (like the Sirens) and playing a traditional song.  More castles, including beautiful Katz and Maus. 

Docked at Boppard, another pretty riverside promenade with (what else?) many flowers, hotels, restaurants.  It reminds us of Bellagio, Italy.  For dinner Marjorie has 2 appetizers, and had 2 flans at lunch yesterday, but she’s quite unrepentant.  [M adds: Excuse me!  In my own defense, they were very small flans, and the appetizers were heart-healthy smoked salmon.]  Napkin tricks at our table by maitre d’ Markus.  A stroll thru town after dinner w/ Diane & Jerry.  A perfect evening.  Drinks along the river near bright blue “Moby Dick” excursion boat.  It’s still early in the season, so these resort villages not that crowded, lots of Zimmer Frei signs indicating vacancies.  We see Capt. Karl-Heinz & Housekeeper Birgit out together for a 2^nd time on the trip.  We think we’ve come on a bit of gossip, but later learn they’re married.  We skip a trivia game in the lounge.  All in all, a fabulous day!!  This is why we came.

Saturday, 6/14:

          

  A bright sunny AM, then mix of sun & clouds.  Today our bus tour of the Moselle valley replaces cruising; about 1/3 opt not to go.  We head off with guide Otto and driver Renate, a lineup of river barges on the right, vineyards on the left.  Up past loaded cherry trees, we squeeze by trucks on a curve (Otto: “this makes me think about my life insurance”).  Then rolling agricultural country w/ modern windmills, occasional poppies.  

  
Otto is very pleasant w/ a voice like Victor Borge (but none of his phonetic punctuation), provides excellent narration w/ enjoyable stories and lots of info.  He explains the days are long because we’re further north than we thought.  We learn about the auto industry and how to decipher license plates.  But Otto especially knows wine.  Vines are planted on such steep (!) slopes to catch sun w/o shading other vines.  And you can always tell a Moselle vintner: 1 leg is shorter than the other due to working sideways on the hills (groan!).  We cross the Moselle on the 2^nd  highest motorway bridge in Germany; also the #1 suicide spot.

            First stop is Bernkastel, a pretty town w/ narrow streets and timbered houses.  Marjorie chats w/ Yvette, who’s recently engaged and finding it hard to coordinate schedules w/ fiancee who does ocean cruises.  She’s a very experienced guide who also does ocean cruises in winter.  We cross a bridge illegally (over the weight limit); Otto: “I would not do this after lunch.”  Into Traban-Trarbach (a tongue-twister the way Yvette pronounces it) for a very hearty German lunch in a very German restaurant: pork, “mushed” potatoes w/ sauerkraut & bacon mixed in, potato soup, apple strudel.  Too much for any of us to finish.  Marjorie gets a tasty vegetarian option.  A hard rain while we eat; Otto says he lit a candle in nearby church to keep us dry.  River is now brown from runoff, it’s cloudy & cooler temps.  Pretty church bells as we leave.   

A stop at Senheim for informative and humorous wine-tasting led by the owner’s very handsome son; he’s the 11^th generation in the business and needs a wife  ̶  many daughters are offered by parents in our group.  The basic theme of our visit: drink plenty of wine, especially German Reisling.  We try 4 different wines in a museum jam-packed w/ wine stuff piled everywhere and lining the walls.  On to Cochem, busier with a Grand Prix cycling race circling thru town.  

Another pretty town w/ a spectacular castle high above.  While I stroll around, Marjorie goes on castle tour.  No room in the shuttle for her and a few others, so they get a taxi for a wild ride up.  M pronounces it a “boffo” castle.  At dinner we trade stories of the day w/ Doug, Ann, & Harry.  A busy day for all!  It’s a beautiful area: a narrower river w/ vineyards spilling down steep slopes on both sides, using every available space no matter how steep.  Pretty little villages and flowers everywhere.  Too bad we couldn’t cruise the Moselle, but it’s water over the dam, as they say.  On to Koblenz, founded by Romans in 9 BC.   A big holiday festival in town, lots of music and partying, but we dock a bit further away than we want to walk at night. 

Sunday, 6/15:

            Sunny AM, warmer again.  The ship is repositioned to dock at the Rhine/Moselle confluence, the Deutsche Eck (German corner).  Kaiser Wilhelm I monument nearby (replaced after WWII destruction), 

much carnival stuff here & thruout the city for the festival.  Just getting set up for the day: booths, exhibits, rides, stages, etc.  Some passengers will stay here for a big PM parade, they’ll catch up to the ship by train.  Flags of German states around the point, plus a US flag here since the 9/11 tragedy.  Imposing Ehrenbreitstein Fortress atop a cliff across the Rhine, palace below it.  A walking tour thru the city.  Original pieces of the Berlin Wall.  

 Many fountains and sculptures: a “naughty boy” behind the Rathaus who spits water, a little girl w/ ducks.  A column shows flood levels  ̶  more than 9 meters above the promenade in 1993!  Marjorie leaves the walking tour to catch part of Mass at Liebfrauenkirche, which turns out to be a great experience.  She hoped to hear the organ, but there was a full orchestra that had the place shaking!  Ship is delayed leaving because someone needs medical treatment, then underway w/ pretty views of the corner as we leave; colorful festival getting underway. 

Nice PM cruising; mix of sun & clouds, I’m wearing my Woolworth’s shorts on the sun deck.  Interesting river traffic again: the usual barges and ferries plus kayaks, some gliders above.  Barges are interesting  ̶  operators often live on them, carrying cars, play areas for children, all their other possessions in addition to cargo.  And (by the way) more castles and churches.  Excellent (I’m told) white asparagus at lunch.  Past Remagen, a strategically important bridge in WWII; it collapsed shortly after Allies crossed the Rhine.  One side is now a peace museum.  To Königswinter, a pretty health resort, where we “offboard” (Yvette rolls her eyes when I say this). 

 Up to Drachenfels  (Dragon’s Crag), part of the Siegfried legend, on a rack railway.  Otto happily greeted in a reprise as guide.  Marjorie strolls w/ Fred, a delightful older man who’s traveled widely, has many stories, and appreciates an arm when walking.  At the top a panoramic view over the Rhine valley, Bonn and Cologne in the distance.  I stop at the castle halfway down to stroll grounds (interior not open).

Before dinner I’m being a bit snippy while looking for something when Marjorie seems to be hovering.  We finally head toward dinner w/ a stop first at Diane & Jerry’s, where there are balloons, streamers, and singing for my birthday!  BD is actually tomorrow, so I’m quite surprised (and feel quite stupid for my snippiness).  An extra treat: hot air balloons in view out the window.  Presents later, and I feel I’m in a vacation time warp: friend Kay sent along a “Mr. Whippy” t-shirt (from an ice-cream joint during the spring Virginia trip she joined us on), Diane & Jerry give New Mexico info for a planned trip there next summer.  Doug & Ann give a German BD card; none of us knows what it says (have to check this out at home w/ a German grad student).  During dinner we’re passed by a brand-new, seemingly huge ship (“Maxima”) w/ lots of glass and cabin balconies.  I point it out to red-haired server Katarina; she looks askance and says “Maybe you should transfer.”  I feel properly chastised.  Fred tips me off to a pretty sunset after dinner so I can get a photo.  A stroll onshore is cut short by annoying Junebugs (seems like home).  Liars Club in the lounge, Tour Assistant Tali, Chef Karl-Heinz, and Hotel Manager Reiner give competing definitions of obscure words (like uxurious and furfur).  Lots of laughs.  Awake at 3am to see a beautiful almost-full moon shining across the river; but I don’t call Fred to tell him.

Monday, 6/16: 

            A beautiful sunny AM; it was 38°C (100°F) here last Wed.!  Short cruise to Bonn, arriving during breakfast.  Another pretty promenade w/ flowers by the dock.  And another enjoyable AM walking tour, guided by a Londoner who married a German man.  She has some hay fever due to lime trees, Capt says his is due to hazelnut.  Is this causing my dry throat?  (Or maybe a cold is going around the ship, as others have had symptoms earlier.)   Bonn, like many places along the tour, was badly bombed during WWII; guide has interesting photos of the damage.  Most of the tours also mention Jewish areas and their losses during the Holocaust.  University here has 40,000 students (but it’s not the largest in Germany) and 4 Nobel winners.  We see Beethoven birth house and construction next door for “digital Beethoven;” also a statue of B in a square outside the post office.  (Some others took a self-guiding Beethoven tour.)  We view the exterior of the Münster (which means same as Dom); older (finished 1248) but smaller than Cologne.  Large granite heads of Roman “town patrons” just lying on their sides, showing they’d been beheaded.  I spot a pretty banner at Oper (opera house): dove on a plate w/ knife & fork to each side.  Guide translates: “Peace is being bombed,” an Iraq war protest that has sparked some controversy.  Lunchtime cruise toward Cologne (Köln).  River shore now flatter, more industrial areas, but pretty modern suspension bridges.  Lunch in the dining room to have wienerschnitzel.

            Bright sunny PM, mid-80s.  Centrally docked: a riverside promenade, old city just beyond.  But museums are closed on Mon.  A bus & walking tour.  Cologne was 90% destroyed in the war, rebuilt in the old style.  Guide says people are very easygoing here; consider selves the “most northern Italian town.” 

A stop at famous cologne company “4711” w/ a glockenspiel on the building.  Marjorie & Diane dab on samples, come out, says Diane, “smelling like French whores on payday.”  To Münster, biggest finished gothic church in the world.  100,000 sq ft of glass in windows, moved during the war to save them.  An interesting explanation by the guide of construction techniques.  

 A walk back to the boat thru main shopping area, we find “badedas” (!!), Anthea’s wished-for bath gel for which we’ve had many false leads.  Sister ship Viking Neptune docked near us, going Amsterdam to Budapest.  Venison for dinner, Marjorie’s favorite so far.  And waiter Tomas knows: Jerry always likes an extra roll and 2 extra butters.  Markus is out of control tonight w/ his napkin-folding, including 1 very suggestive motif, then wandering with a large mirror  ̶  to show us how much weight we’ve gained?  Then he and other staff arrive w/ birthday cake (meringue  ̶  and Jerry loves meringue!) w/ sparkler/candle to lead the room in happy birthday to me!; they know these things from our passport info.  Birgit also has a BD today, but they’re home here and can celebrate with family & friends . . . which is just what I’m doing!  One of my best birthdays ever!  The evening concludes with a promenade stroll.  All in all, we decide Cologne is interesting, but too big a city for our interests now.

Tuesday, 6/17: 

            Another nice AM, cooler at first but warms up quickly.  My stuffy head is pumped full of pharmaceuticals from Marjorie & Ann.  It’s good this is a relaxed day: a free AM in Cologne, cruising all PM.  We walk in during a church bells “concert.”  More Marjorie shopping: interesting soaps for people, plus pretty canvas shopping bags from other nice shops; I get skyline photos from a bridge.  We rendezvous at Schokoladenmuseum, a favorite of the crew and chocoholic Ann.  Exhibits on history, cultivation, processing of chocolate, including Mayan & Aztec artifacts.  We learn of chocolate’s reputed links to idleness among the rich, general debauchery and sexual prowess!  But wafers dipped in a chocolate fountain don’t seem to affect out morals.  We buy a few yummies . . . for family & friends, of course.  

 Back to the ship for special Bavarian lunch: lots of food & beer (but I take it easy on my stomach), some staff in costume, Gitomar’s trusty synthesizer for oompah music.

            Bright PM sun, then increasing clouds.  Onboard activities include knot-tying and napkin-folding lessons.  “A Bridge Too Far,” classic war movie set in Arnhem (our next stop), is on TV.   

We take a wheelhouse tour (actually, joystick and radar instead of wheel) to learn about the ship and its operation.  We also learn some of our group this AM saw a man fleeing police jump into the river near the chocolate museum and drown.  Rhine’s not very deep, but treacherous currents.  We see some modern windmills closer to Netherlands, more cows, sheep, horses along the shore and down at river’s edge.  

“Off-off-Broadway” Crew Show after dinner: singing, dancing, skits.  Much goofiness and laughter.  Dock at Arnhem (Netherlands), river now called Rijn.  View from our cabin not so interesting  ̶  we’re docked next to a cement wall.

Wednesday, 6/18:

            CNN reports SARS epidemic “ebbing.”  Cloudy, cool AM; some light rain earlier.  AM tour to Paleis Het Loo, summer residence of the Royal House of Orange until 1975.  We feel connections here: current Queen Beatrix has visited Albany, with it’s Dutch roots (reflected in place names like Renssalaer, Watervleit, Gansevoort).  We learn “Holland” properly refers only to 2 of 12 provinces.  Guide Alice gives lots of historical and political info. 

She’s disappointed the Crown Prince has married; she wanted a life of waving to crowds and wearing big hats.  A drive past pretty agricultural countryside, lovely houses (lots of brick w/ thatched or tile roofs), gardens.  Like Versailles and Schonbrunn but more modest scale, Paleis has beautiful ornate interior (but no photos allowed) and formal gardens.  Bright with hazy sun now and into the PM, generally a cooler day.  Back on the bus Alice sings a lullaby for “nappy-nappy” on the ride back to the ship.  After lunch we head w/ Diane & Jerry into the city. 

Into Eusebiuskerk, now used only once a month as a church, otherwise for concerts and other events.  Interesting modern sculptures commemorating WWII.  Up the tower for views over the city and countryside.  Diane doesn’t like heights, but she’s very brave here.  Doug & Ann spend the PM on an enjoyable optional excursion to “Open Air Museum,” sort of a Williamsburg/Sturbridge historical site w/ collected buildings, windmills, craft exhibitions.

            Tonight’s the Captain’s Farewell Dinner.  A little dressier if you like; I brought my tie, Jerry’s grumbling about wearing his.  We return to our cabin in the afternoon to find an invitation to sit at the Captain’s Table.  Not sure what this means, but turns out only 2 other couples are included.  Why us, you ask (as did we)?  Maybe it’s a commission for convincing 5 others to come along with us.  I think it’s because we’re beautiful people and sparking conversationalists; Diane says she’ll let me keep my illusions.  Whatever, we sit down with Capt. Karl-Heinz, Hotel Manager Reiner, a friendly younger couple from near us in the Berkshires (she’s an artist, so Marjorie talks up the WMHT art auction), a delightful older couple from Scotland.  Great fun chatting, topics range from rock concerts attended by Karl Heinz to Reiner’s experiences with Russian mafia.  An excellent dinner capped off w/ baked Alaska paraded around by kitchen staff, plentiful wine flowing thruout.  A very special evening.  Doug masks his own bitter disappointment to graciously take our photo with the Capt.  Cruising during the evening and into the night to reach Amsterdam early AM.  More animals along the way: pigs, cows, even some wild horses.  A distant view of traditional Dutch windmill after dinner.  We miss a pretty stretch of windmills while at the Capt’s Table  ̶  the price of fame.

Thursday, 6/19:

            Docked by Centraal Station in Amsterdam.  Marjorie decides not to follow her original plan to take a bus to the flower auction at Alsmere (10 km away).  CNN: typhoon in Asia, temps of 50°C in Middle East!  We’re cloudy, breezy, coolest day of the trip (jackets for the 1^st time).  

 Been getting some Amsterdam orientation from staff and guides.  Watch out for whizzing bikes  ̶  no bells, no brakes, no rules.  Bikes are everywhere, and you can expect to frequently “exchange” bikes (i.e., have yours stolen); guess that’s why bikes here aren’t very fancy. 

Amsterdam is “Venice of the north:” many canals, city built on pilings (timbers from Black Forest).  It’s a very international city, only 44% are native Dutch.  Yvette’s also been trying to teach us appropriate guttural Dutch sounds; I do pretty well, but it’s probably just my stuffy head talking.  A quick swing thru the city by bus.  Lots of construction near the waterfront.  

Then a nice canal cruise; not the best setup for photos, but a good overview.  

 Tour ends at Rijksmuseum, sort of the Dutch Smithsonian.  Because of asbestos uncovered during renovation, it’s closed except 1 wing of selected exhibits.  Interesting slide show about paintings being exhibited helps us appreciate incredible details and use of light by Rembrandt, Vermeer, other Dutch masters.  This “edited” collection is an efficient way to see highlights, but disappointing I’m sure to a true aficionado.  Also some decorative arts shown, but Marjorie disappointed the dollhouse exhibit is closed.  After a cafe snack, we stroll on our own (were warned that Van Gogh Museum likely crowded for his 150^th birthday, but we’re more interesting in strolling anyway).  Thru an antiques area (Marjorie’s sister Mary would love this).  

 Famous floating flower market (Bloemenmarkt); not the open barges we expected, instead enclosed greenhouses mixed among the usual souvenirs.  Shared baguette and Coke Light for lunch (our lightest lunch in 2 weeks). 

Past huge Madame Tussaud Wax Museum on Dam Square, which also has Royal Palace, National Monument (WWII), plus various “statue” performers looking for money.  Into the Red Light District, where figures in windows are a bit more active than those on Dam Sq.  Many windows not yet open for business; Marjorie helpfully points out which are open, but I suspect that will be the extent of her helpfulness.  We were surprised to hear from our guide yesterday that the district must close up by 1am.  All in all, a pretty depressing area.  Here and elsewhere, lots of “cannibis” activity: cannibis/hemp museum, cafe/cafeterias (“no minors, no hard drugs”), signs in shops for seeds.   

Marjorie heads back to the ship along Damrak, a busy shopping street.  I head to quieter areas to see more of the canals (especially along Prinsengracht): many different houseboats of varying quality, lots of pretty black ducks w/ white heads, several herons.   

Westerkerk (Western church) w/ pretty interior.  A long line outside the Anne Frank house.  Back at the ship, Marjorie’s already well along in packing!  Some sun in the evening for our final dinner.  Into the city after dinner, but we’re disappointed that lights outlining bridges aren’t on by about 10.  We learn the next group on our ship will be much bigger  ̶  144 passengers; where will they put them all in the dining room?  And Moselle will be open for cruising, so they’ll do the original itinerary.

Friday, 6/20: 

            Bright sunny AM.  We settle up shipboard accounts, then our group has a last breakfast together.  Tears & hugs as people leave for the airport.  Hugs and waves at the pier for Yvette, of whom we’ve become very fond.  We’ll have to send her treats she can’t find over here: peanut butter M&Ms, BBQ Pringles.  I leave behind my European alter ego “Russel” (as my name was misspelled on the ship name tag); tho I’ll still have my “European sports shorts” from Woolworth’s.  Bus to the airport with several fellow passengers on our flight, including a travel agent who’s learning about VRC for use by her groups.  We’re picked out of the check-in line for a random hand search of our luggage by very friendly security guy, who gives thumbs-up to Marjorie’s coffee purchases.  I must look really “random,” as another security agent asks me to step out (but then agrees that one search is sufficient).  Still some euros to burn: a cafe stop for pinwheel pastries and cappuccino/hot chocolate, plus a stash of Dutch chocolate.  Thru more security checkpoints, including right at the gate where everyone is asked detailed questions about the packing and contents of their luggage.  We have our preferred 2 aisle seats (plus empty seats next to both of us!) for the 8-hour Delta flight to JFK.  But no free wine this flight.  I have a Viking box of tissues to accompany my nose.  I started Stephen King’s “Dreamcatcher” on way over, finishing it on the ship (interesting, but a disappointing conclusion).  Now I’m reading Jane Urquhart’s “The Stone Carver,” historical Canadian fiction with some links to our trip  ̶  it’s partly set in Germany & France before and after WWI.  Very moving, quite distinctive characters.  Thanks to Anthea’s mother Pamela for suggesting a good read.  About ½ hour late into JFK at 1:40pm.  We zip thru immigration, baggage, customs in about 5 minutes.  Matt’s waiting to pick us up, back to his place, then on the road.  Some traffic getting out of the city, across our home Hudson River, a couple Thruway stops to keep heads clear, a quick stop for groceries.  Home about 7:30.

            A wonderful trip!!  Beautiful sights.  Excellent company.  Great food.  Cooperative weather.  Everyone home safe and sound.