Brazil & Argentina

Adventures in South America

June 2013

  The “wild and crazy” Ward brothers have an adventure! Tho pretty well-traveled, neither Doug nor I has been to South America. I’ve arranged several trips thru Gate1, and their “10 Day Classic South America” hits excellent highlights. Wives were asked to join us, but Marjorie and Ann seemed happy to bid us bon voyage. It seems odd to travel w/o Marjorie (tho I did the choir Italy tour w/o her), but this balances her Rhine Christmas markets cruise last December w/ sister Mary. I’m sure Doug will be a fine companion; we’ve generally played well together. There are extra tasks & expenses: CDC-recommended shots for hepatitis (a series of 3, the last after we return) and yellow fever; no shots for dengue fever or malaria, just be careful with clothing and repellent to fend off mosquitos. Tourist visas required for Brazil seemed a bit complicated to acquire, so I used services of GEN VISA recommended by Gate1, and needed a tasa de reciprocidad (“reciprocity fee”) to enter Argentina. Doug has had cataract surgery & new glasses; hope he won’t be bumping into things. Plus complexities of 2 languages (Portuguese & Spanish  ̶  I brush up from past trips) and 2 currencies (real, 1 BRL= $.49; peso 1 ARS= $.19). Also cautions about being careful about when and where we’re out and about on the streets, especially in Rio. It’s winter there; expected temps in the 70s in Rio, 50s in Buenos Aires; it’s gotten to the 90s here  ̶  imagine, going to South America to cool off!

  Marjorie has taken advantage of my upcoming absence to visit Mary in KC. I don’t feel too abandoned, as she’s left some food and prepared a package of pharmaceuticals to address potential needs during my trip. She’s also more train-savvy and advised on traveling to and from NYC. 

Down to NYC 5/28 to visit w/ our Queens family (plus it’s nice to see “Grandad” Brian, daughter-in-law Anthea’s father, who arrives for a stay), we attend son Matt’s Talujon percussion concert, and I drop off Marjorie at LaGuardia next AM for her flight to KC (she’ll return 6/11). 

Then go figure: she goes off to the land of tornados and a ferocious storm hits Albany! 3 tornados in the area, lots of tree damage around us, no power for 25 hours. But I do have company until Sunday: frequent Albany Symphony guest Grace.

Thursday, June 6:

  Now for my trip. Cool & cloudy, lots of rain forecast. A drive to Poughkeepsie to leave the car w/ friends at the “Marlene & Frank Park & Ride.” Marlene takes me to the train, I take the 1^st trip photo of the historic station (Marjorie would be rolling her eyes, but I have to warm up my shutter finger for a busy photo trip). Metro-North w/ pretty views along the Hudson (but no more photos) to Grand Central, Airporter bus to JFK. A distant view of the new Freedom Tower at the World Trade Center complex. 

I’m at the airport way too early, but got nothing better to do. Doug flies from Detroit thru Atlanta; there’s some stormy weather in the SE, hope he won’t have problems. I’ve splurged (a little) to get direct flight down to avoid the missed-flight hassle of last year’s trip to Turkey. Takeoff a little after 9pm, not a very full flight.

Friday, June 7:

  Going south/north there’s only a 1-hour time difference (add 1 hour going down), so maybe no jet lag  ̶  but it’s a 9+ hour flight w/ only brief naps. My first time crossing the equator! Arrival a bit early at 8am, mountains layered against the rising sun as we land. I find the Gate1 rep right away, we wait for some others including Doug. I hit up an ATM for some reals, then watch people arrive: some with big loads of luggage, happy reunions, including one very long, languid kiss! Posters for FIFA Federation Cup soccer next week, a sign of where we are. Our tour people have arrived for this pickup so we head into the city. Sunny, hazy & humid, about 80 but comfortable. Gate1 person says it’s chilly here in the evening; I tell her she doesn’t know chilly! But one sign of winter: sunset at 5:30. 

A longish drive in, lots of big city traffic, views of pretty areas and others not so pretty with the favelas  ̶  it’s a big city, after all, w/ both rich & poor. To our Windsor Florida Hotel near Flamengo Beach, popular among business travelers. Doug & I get settled in, a quick check of the TV: as w/ European trips, here and other hotels have a mix of local programs in Portuguese (including a colorful local “Big Bird”), some American TV and movies w/ subtitles or dubbed, sometimes CNN in English. We spot Nelson Eddy & Jeanette MacDonald singing in “Rose Marie;” how global: a Canadian Mountie w/ Portuguese subtitles! We didn’t come here to watch TV, so we put together some stuff to head out into Rio. But we don’t have our wives to carry things in their purses! Do you suppose we look like tourists?

  First up to the rooftop pool. Not an exciting view except for the statue of Christ Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) looming in the distance. 

Then we dive right in, riding the metro (buying unitario tickets at nearby Catete station) to Cinelândia, a square w/ neoclassical buildings, including the Teatro Municipal, described as a “little piece of Paris.” Some confusion about directions until I realize the sun in this part of the world is to the north, not the south. 

Many beautiful buildings.

A short walk to the Carioca area, stalls w/ crafts in the praça (plaza), pretty palm trees, purple flowers, statues, old churches, fountains; and surrounded by modern skyscrapers. “Bob’s Burgers” seems quite popular. 

But we’re more interested in some beautiful churches: Convento de Santo Antonio and Igreja da Venerável Terceira de São Francisco da Penitência, dating to the 17^th C. On to Praça XV de Novembro, named for the proclamation of the republic in 1889. More impressive buildings, including Paço Imperial, once the residence of the Portuguese royal family. 

Thru a stone archway, Arco do Teles, to Travessa do Comércio, a narrow cobblestone alley where we find an outdoor café (The Line) for lunch. Our first experience w/ one of the popular buffets where you pay by the kilo. We stumble our way along to decipher the routine: you get a slip at the door, get what you want at the buffet, have that weighed, then eat (even if you are outside, which seems very trusting) and pay when you leave. Good food, a nice break. 

Refreshed, a metro ride back to the hotel. Into a supermercado for bottled water. A stroll thru beautiful gardens at the Museu da República next to the hotel: pretty gazebo, an alpha duck making quite a spectacle, a young woman dancing w/ fabric atop a hill.

   An evening orientation w/ our Rio tour manager, William. An interesting guy: he’s also a professor of veterinary medicine & dermatology at 2 local med schools; an A-list guide, we learn later that he’s worked for Barbara Bush, Michelle Obama & children, and recently Harrison Ford. Guess he’s slumming w/ us. William assures us security isn’t so bad here, just use common sense like any big city. A new option has been added: a Brazilian barbeque and folkloric show at Plataforma1. Sounds interesting, we sign up. Up to the rooftop for a free drink: a caipirinha, Brazil’s “national cocktail” w/ sugar cane liqueur, lime, and sugar (it’s like a mojito). A good time chatting w/ friendly folks. Our group numbers 33. We mostly hang out during the trip w/ Nancy & hubbie Les, friends Cheryl & Ali from Florida, Roland, and early risers Chuck & Irene (generally first at breakfast, they share a table and Doug & I usually join them). Also a jolly band of Chinese-Canadians, a young brother & sister, an Indian mother & daughter (Jasmine & Fatima) from Dallas, and a family group from Texas. People think it’s nice to see brothers traveling together. A good group, these are veteran travelers: we hear about trips to Machu Pichu, S. Africa, Egypt, Antarctica, Mongolia, and Roland will go from this tour to a cruise on the Amazon.

Saturday, June 8:        

           1^st breakfast buffet: fruits (including persimmons), cheeses & coldcuts, eggs & sausage, breads, yummy pastries, dulce de leche (a caramelized milk spread). AM sun & low clouds, up to low 80s today. 

Onto the bus, William does his guide thing w/ info about Rio history and culture. The spirit of Rio is contrast: man & nature, sea & mountains, rich & poor. Mountains, rain forests, and beaches are all interwoven w/in the city. We may even see little monkeys in the trees. Past pretty Parque Flamengo, Sugarloaf in the distance. Trees w/ purple flowers (or yellow or white) are “cow footprint” (the shape of the leaf); later he points out odd “monkey apricot” trees.

           Cog railroad takes us up thru a national park w/ lush vegetation to the 2200’ top of Corcovado (meaning “hunchback”)

and the iconic Cristo Redento statue, voted one of the 7 wonders of the contemporary world. 

The statue is 98’ tall w/ 92’ arm span; by comparison, Statue of Liberty is 151’ tall. Haze & low clouds make for now-you-see-it/now-you-don’t views of Rio, the bay, and Sugarloaf below. Many people pose w/ arms outstretched like the statue. 

A little chapel in the base. Back down, Doug & I get betacas, a favorite game, for grandsons: it’s like a big badminton bird w/ heavy leather ball topped by bright colored feathers, you hit it back & forth w/ your hands. Nancy has found her coveted havaianas sandals, a very popular item here. 

          Thru a 1-mile tunnel, one of 60 in the city. William says Rio has no natural disasters like earthquakes; he says it would be unfair, since the politicians create so many disasters. There’s no real winter here, just “hot” and “less hot.” The passions are: samba, Carnival, soccer, and religion (dominated by Catholics). Around a lagoon to be used for rowing at the 2016 Olympics, now filled w/ weekend activities, a large dog park. Past the largest favela (shantytown), 150,000 living in extreme poverty near mansions and fancy golf clubs (one of the contrasts William mentioned). 

          To Ipanema Beach, colorful hang-gliders; William tries to talk some of our group into trying this later. Some try “coconut water;” Doug says he didn’t like this on his Tahiti visit earlier this year. A drive-by of Ipanema and Copacabana beaches  ̶  crowded w/ people, colorful flags, offshore islands restricted for nesting birds, distinctive wave-decorated sidewalks along Copa, sand sculptures, beach volleyball, some waves at one end for surfing. William sings ♫The Girl From Ipanema♫ in Portuguese; and we learn the song was inspired by a real girl, now in her 60s. Rainbow flags mark a gay beach. 

A stop at HStern, a gem & jewelry emporium. Thru a little museum, then we sit w/ an “advisor” to discuss possible purchases (“The Girl” playing in the background). We’re not interested, so join 2 of our group for a shuttle back to the hotel. A light kilo buffet lunch (well, there was some cheesecake involved). 

A perfect PM w/ a little cooling breeze. We tour (free for seniors, such as we) the Museu da República; most things are in Portuguese but English brochure gives basic orientation. Beautiful ministerial and other rooms, ornately decorated staircase w/ stained glass skylight, one very simple bedroom where a President committed suicide!  

          Next door is the small Museu de Folclore: interesting models of favela buildings, a nice little gift shop of local crafts (we make some purchases). 

Doug goes to the hotel, I come across some musicians behind the museum, from teens to 80s playing guitars, drums, etc., people coming up from onlookers to sing w/ them, all very informal.

            And back thru the pretty nearby park.

          We head off for the Brazilian BBQ. William tells us something of his home life: he lives at the edge of the mountains w/ 26 chihuahuas, a number of cats, and 2 monkeys that often come in from the forest! He gives strategy tips for not filling up too quickly at the “all you can eat” BBQ: don’t eat too much of the buffet w/ salads/soups/etc., save yourself for the beef. People come by to slice off what you want from various cuts, and they’ll keep coming with beef or sausage or chicken. Quite a feast. Plus wine, beer, local Guanana soda. Ali gets pulled up by the piano player to help w/ ♫New York, New York♫. 

 
Finally we have to stop eating to head to the “Brazil 500” show. Beforehand scantily-clad showgirls want pictures taken w/ you (which you can buy later, of course); Nancy has been trying to get “incriminating” photos to e-mail to our wives and finds success: Doug w/ an “Amazon” towering over him, but she’s too slow to capture me in flagrante delicto (what happens in Rio stays in Rio!). 

Then an energetic & colorful show: music, samba, and other dances from different regions, gymnastics & martial arts, a guy w/ whirling bolas who brings down the house, a percussion group, incredibly elaborate Carnival costumes, finishing w/ a conga line the includes audience members. Great fun, a fine addition to the itinerary. Back to the hotel past restaurants still full at midnight!

Sunday, June 9:

          Mostly sunny AM, some clouds, not hazy like yesterday, warmer to about 85. We’re doing optional tour of Sugarloaf (so named after Portuguese sugar cane trade), the granite cone at the entrance to Guanabara Bay w/ panoramic views of Rio. William notes the cable car was used in James Bond movie “Moonraker” and mentions some other movie sites. Past a grass soccer field on top of a shopping center used by Botofogo team. It’s testing day for HS students, so lots of traffic around the university we pass. 

Noticeable police presence at the cable car station, something we see thruout Rio. Also rock climbers on the sheer face above the station. William says this is the 3^rd oldest cable car setup in the world; Doug: “I didn’t want to hear that!” 

We ascend in 2 stages: to 750’, then 1200’. Early cars displayed at the top, and several tamarind monkeys (1 of 4 species in Rio) on a railing, including mother & baby.

Spectacular views all around of the city, beaches, bay, mountains; this more than makes up for some obscured views yesterday. And some souvenir opportunities, of course.

We spot a rare scarlet tanager, and other birds riding the air drafts. Back down where a street performer is preparing to be “Edward Scissorhands.” And William has gotten a different bus w/ properly working mic.

        

           Continuing on, William talks about Carnival, which he clearly loves and always participates in. There are 4 nights of parades, major floats cost 5 million reals, various samba school clubs compete. To the “Sambadrome” stadium where the parades end. It’s open, so people can try on some costumes. Roland gets the biggest ovation.  

Past Maracana Stadium, built for the 1950 World Cup to hold 200,000; recently “reinaugurated” to hold 148,000, still the largest such stadium in the world, to be used for Federation Cup matches, 2014 World Cup, and 2016 Olympic opening ceremony.

Past Central Station (site of a movie of the same name), Bohemian & commercial areas, to the Metropolitan Cathedral, where a mass is being said. Outside it looks like just a concrete pyramid, but inside beautiful windows climb from floor to ceiling. Over to Cinelândia and a walking tour where Doug & I went on Friday. William promises at the end a Shakespeare stop: “To pee or not to pee.” 

 

Praça XV is filled w/ old cars; I take offense when William calls them “antique,” since they date back to when I started driving! The nice outdoor cafes from Friday are shuttered now (guidebooks discourage going into the city center on weekends except in larger groups), but William points out a house where Carmen Miranda lived. He also makes note of the many cultural events and opportunities in Rio, and says it is “the city of the moment,” with low unemployment & booming real estate. Driving on William points out reinforcements in the cliffs to prevent rock slides, then we’re dropped off by Ipanema Beach. 

Several of us have lunch at “Banana Jack’s,” w/ samples of banana beer and (for me) an “ovalmatine” milk shake chaser.

          Some of our group are picked up to go hang-gliding (about which they wax rhapsodic later). We head into the plaza for the Fiera Hippie (“Hippie Fair”) de Ipanema, a large art & craft show held on Sundays. Nice stuff. I ask one artist, in my best Portuguese, quanto custa? Her reply: “You speak English?” She lived in Massachusetts over 20 years. We chat, I buy a little painting. 

Over to the beach to spend more time after the rather quick drive-by yesterday. Doug deconstructs his pants into shorts. A beautiful PM: surfers, colorful flags, dramatic mountain views at the end of the beach. 

On to nearby Copacabana, colorful boats & panoramic views, closer looks at elaborate sand sculptures. Not so many people actually in the water, tho, apparently too cold. Doug gets credit for suggesting this lovely afternoon. We’ll metro back to the hotel; some difficulty finding the station, but we get directions. Then the train seems to go back and forth between just a few stations  ̶  some kindly souls explain where we need to transfer. 

We join some others on the hotel roof for drinks as the Cristo is lighted. Roland demonstrates the fancy firestarters he markets. Back to our room, mints on the pillows. Best day yet! Boa Noite!

Monday, June 10:

          CNN: 94-year-old Nelson Mandela hospitalized, the Putins are divorcing. Time to say goodbye to Rio. [Large protests, some violent, over transit fare increases, government spending, and corruption erupt in major Brazil cities, including Rio, about a week after we leave!] Another nice AM, clouds low in the mountains like Saturday. A drive to the airport. William shows photos of his dogs & cats, we pass new Trump Towers, a storage area for Carnival floats, and an important epidemiological research center named after the creator of yellow fever vaccine, and harbor area being revitalized for the Olympics. William accompanies us thru airport check-in. Then he’ll go teach microbiology at the med school! Says he uses tours to de-stress. 
         

We fly to Foz (“end”) do Iguaçu; a small aeroporto w/ only a few small single- & double-engine planes. We arrive about noon to meet guide Cesar & helper Claudio, both Argentinians. Driving toward Cataratas do Iguaçu we see lush green vegetation set off by rich red soil (iron oxide). The AM here was rainy & now cloudy, but brilliant sun breaks out when we get to the falls!

          Today we tour along the Brasil side of the falls. Some snacking at the national park entrance, including pao a quiejo (tasty cheese bread). A whimsical sculpture made from trash picked up by rangers. We apply bug repellent. 

Accomodations for tourists: overnight or bus parking for day trips.

Cesar gives orientation on a large map (his mantra: “Short in front, tall in back”). 3 languages here: Portuguese, Spanish, native Guarani. Climate is subtropical w/ no real dry season. Iguaçu means “big water,” 80% of the falls on the Argentine side and 20% in Brazil; he says Argentina & Brazil have good relations except during World Cup soccer.

Cesar says don’t let cameras get in the way of our experience: “Keep in your minds, keep in your eyes, keep in the bottom of your hearts.” He later recounts a wonderful experience guiding a group of 50 blind persons, and how much they enjoyed the experience. This is Cesar’s home area  ̶  “welcome to my office.” Walkways have falls spread along one side, lush vegetation on the other. 

So many spectacular vistas! 

And closeups right by the falls!

We encounter our first coatis, long-nosed ring-tailed “raccoons.” They’re cute, but signs say Nâo alimente o quati (Don’t feed them) and posters warn about their bites & scratches. One gets aggressive w/ one of our group who has a sandwich in her bag; to her consternation, hubbie keeps taking photos of her encounter w/ nature! Coincidentally (hopefully), vultures soar above the falls. The views are incredible: one spectacular vista after another as the falls spread out and out and out! 

A “Goat Island” type walkway takes us out onto the river amid the mist. It’s Niagara Falls on steroids! How do the falls compare? Some similarities  ̶  here also are helicopter flyovers and “Maid of the Mist” type raft rides  ̶  but not a wax museum in sight! Niagara is still the largest in the world in annual flow, but Iguaçu is higher (60-82m vs. 50), has twice the surface area, includes 150-300 separate falls (depending on rainfall) spread across 2.7 km. After viewing Iguaçu Eleanor Roosevelt exclaimed: “Poor Niagara!”

          Time to head to Argentina. Cesar gives more info about 3 countries (including Paraguay) and cities here. “The Mission” w/ Robert DeNiro was filmed here. Argentine highlights: gauchos, tango, parrilla (BBQ). Over a bridge on which colors change midway from Brazil to Argentina, Paraguay visible in the distance downriver. Cesar says getting thru Argentine immigration is sometimes tedious, but he handles it all pretty quickly. 

          It’s a beautiful evening as we near the hotel; setup for an upcoming convention blocks our way, so we schlep luggage about a block to our Amerian Hotel. We fill out some forms, have a welcome drink, then up to the rooms. This is more of a resort hotel: 6-story open atrium, nice gardens and pool, overlooking the confluence of the Iguazú and Paraná rivers (15 km from the falls). We have a bigger room here, balcony overlooking fountain & gardens in front. Seems too far to go into town, so we join some others for a good dinner in the hotel: pasta w/ lamb stuffing for me, tasty risotto for Doug. I use hotel computer to catch up on e-mail, American sports news. Marjorie says it’s been raining almost nonstop; she’s thinking of getting goats to deal w/ the overgrown lawn.

         

Tuesday, June 11:

         

A rooster starts crowing at 5am! CNN: US considering arming Syrian rebels, Chinese space launch to dock w/ an unmanned space module. Very foggy & an iffy forcast. What should we carry for rain? We’ll be walking about 4 miles on trails, so optimistically decide not to bring umbrellas or other extras to carry. And we nix the boat trip; Cesar says you get quite drenched. I did some laundry last night; will it dry in this humidity? A stroll near the hotel, people sweeping the streets w/ brooms. 

 Off we go to tour Argentine side of the falls: Cataratas de Iguazú. Cesar says animals here include monkeys, toucans & other birds . . . and 5 poisonous snakes! Fog begins to lift as we reach the falls, and then gorgeous sun all day! Temps to about 80. As we wait to enter the park I notice people looking up toward some trees; when we enter I spot 2 toucans in full view! I alert the group, and Cesar who’d gone marching right past. He says toucans are “bad boys of the forest;” they destroy other nests and eat the eggs. 

            Off we go for trail walks punctuated by train rides. We split for a while, some going on the raft trip, others of us along a lower trail.

Many birds: brightly-colored plush crested jays (I later send some other bird photos to birder friends who identify a kiskadee but are stumped by some others  ̶  I guess they’re too Norteamericano-centric); and a child w/ “Angry Birds” t-shirt reminds me of our grandsons.

Interesting flora & fauna: palm trees w/ bags built by birds as nests; swift nests in rocks behind falls; many small colorful butterflies that alight on heads, hands, shoulders, cameras  ̶  it’s like a butterfly conservatory; Indian fig trees (but don’t eat the figs: a wasp that does something to make it edible does not exist here).

And marauding bands of coati.

And, of course, the falls: panoramic views from precipices, many rainbows, even more spectacular than yesterday!! A break for light lunch of empanadas (tasty beef & chicken pies), harpist playing under a fig tree. 

Then Cesar’s “cherry on top:” a train ride, then 1 mile walk over the river out to Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), perched atop one of the biggest falls and the most intense sun of the trip (good to have my sun block & hat).

          What a day! We leave about 5, nearly 8 hours in the park. Back to the hotel, views of the sun setting over the rivers, another good dinner, to bed.

Wednesday, June 12:

          I manage to “sleep in” until 6:20. Another foggy AM, a pretty view from the hotel. CNN: tear gas used on protestors in Istanbul (we were there last summer!), wildfires in Colorado. Breakfast here includes something like chicken fajitas. 

A free AM, Doug & I take a nice stroll part way into the town. 

Preparations are being finished for the convention by the hotel beginning this PM: VII Congreso Latinoamericana de Ciudades Gobiernos Locales, which seems a sort of trade show for municipal organizations w/ displays of tractors and other equipment, booths being set up. Posters for Selvavia, a colorful “jungle show” for kids. 

Lots of dogs wandering about town. Some areas of lush vegetation, flowers, rustic houses and businesses (including a Superkiosko). Giggling schoolchildren handing out flyers on a serious subject: today is Dia Mundial Contra el Trabajo Infantil (World Day Against Child Labor). And even in this rustic area there’s a nice store w/ beautiful piedras nativas (gemstones); we find some nice pieces w/ rodocrosita, Argentina’s national stone. 

          After rain before sunrise and then fog, clearing as we bus to the small airport. One sign of being in Argentina: El Gaucho Leather airport shop. Roland gets extra attention from security for his firestarters, laser pointers, etc., but it’s OK. 2:30 takeoff, falls in the distance, over rivers & lakes, best legroom of the flights.

  Into Buenos Aires domestic airport at 4, nice views of the city as we land. We meet local guide Ariel and head into the city on a beautiful evening. Airport is on Rio de la Plata, widest river in the world (some of our group thought it was the ocean). 

We drive in past impoverished shantytowns and colorful stores.

Ip Avenida 9 de Julio w/ 1^st view of Obelisco, the “defining monument” of the city (looks like the Washington Monument, visible from many vantage points thruout our visit). Ariel points out oddly shaped “drunk trees.” Into our Icaro Suites Hotel, near Plaza del Congreso. 

Colorful lobby art by the owner, who’s Bolivian. A pleasant woman’s voice greets us in the elevator (Bienvenidos) and announces pisos (Entrepiso is the mezzanine floor for breakfast). Very roomy digs, kitchenette w/ table and 4 chairs, 2 burners, microwave, sink  ̶  but we don’t plan to cook! Out to find dinner. We pass our Chinese-Canadian group a couple of times, I ask if they are looking for a Tim Horton’s. 

We select Chiquilin, a classic looking place, waiters in white shirts & bow ties (they seem very serious, but ours is more jolly). Doug gets credit for finding this (from the book I gave him, so I get partial credit). I have bife de chorizo (tenderloin), Doug has calabaza (pumpkin) ravioli. 

After-dinner strolling along Avenida de Mayo. Here and elsewhere people on the street remind Doug to be careful of people trying to snatch his big camera. Past BancoPatagonia. Into Palacio Barolo, but too late for tours. Past Plaza del Congreso w/ impressive capitol building. Back to the hotel. Our balcony overlooks the street, but there’s good soundproofing.

Thursday, June 13:

          Chocaron dos Trenes del Sarmiento: local news of 2 trains colliding about 15 km from Buenos Aires, 3 dead and 235+ injured (Cesar says some 50 killed in a subway crash in BA about a year ago). Another continuing local story about a schoolgirl murdered, building superintendent arrested after we leave. Cool AM, up to 70 today, beautiful sun all day. Breakfast again at the hotel. Onto the bus, Ariel asks: “Where did you go for dinner?” One reply: “That way”  ̶  it’s so hard to remember details in a new place! 

    

           Ariel relates more history and culture as we drive thru theater and financial districts to Plaza de Mayo, the historic core and political heart, a forum for protests. 

Ongoing activities and a mock cemetery by the Madres de Plaza de Mayo, remembering the desaparecidos (“disappeared ones”) from the “dirty war” of the 1970s & early ‘80s. Casa Rosada and the balcony from which Eva (Evita) Perón “addressed adoring crowds.” 

Into the nearby Catedral Metropolitana, beautiful interior especially the side chapels, including ceremonial guards at the mausoleum of General San Martín, “South American liberator” and “Father of the Nation.” 

Back on the bus, past San Telmo, the old “1^st neighborhood” & “cradle of the tango,” also site of a major market. Past La Boca (“mouth of the river”) neighborhood, 

a soccer stadium w/ yellow & blue colors of La Boca Juniors; very steep stands create a “surround sound.” Lots of colorful buildings along the way.

A stop to explore Caminito. Originally BA’s Little Italy, now a Disneyesque pedestrian area of brightly colored houses, mannequins in windows & doorways, many shopping ops. Frommer’s calls it “repulsive and insulting to visitors,” but it’s a fun little stop. It’s by the old port, cobblestone streets and wooden block sidewalks. 

 Here and thruout BA are interesting doors & windows that remind me of Marjorie’s favorite photo interests when we travel. 

       Continuing on past Puerto Madero, the revitalized “new face of the city”: a frigate, shops and restaurants, sinewy white Bridge of Woman by a famous Spanish architect, amid towering modern buildings.

By Plaza San Martin and Torre Monumental (British Clock Tower); elevator to the top is closed, so we can cross that view off our to-do list. More sights along the way: a metallic flower sculpture, used to open in the day and close at night, now stuck open; Evita monument where she once lived; many dog walkers w/ 10-20 in hand; Palermo w/ pretty parks, beautiful trees, impressive embassy buildings.

Our last stop (Ariel: “the icing on the cake”) is Recoleta Cemetery, an architecturally impressive “city of the dead” like New Orleans. Evita’s tomb is here, tho not especially remarkable. An intriguing statue of a girl & her dog; the dog passed away shortly after the girl’s untimely death, is the only pet buried here. [Note to stepsister Mar: Many cats live among the tombs, are fed and cared for “unofficially” by a group of women.] 

Back to the hotel after dropping off our Chinese-Canadians near Chinatown (they come back unimpressed). Doug & I get light lunch of empanadas near the hotel. Off we go on our own city tour.

          To Plaza Lavalle and ornate Teatro Colón. Conductor friends Francisco & Brian said this luxurious opera house is a must-see. Our schedules don’t connect for a concert, but we take a wonderful tour w/ sweet guide Magdalene. She says this was part of the upper-class effort to create a “Paris of South America.” 

Beautiful marble & tile foyer, unusual soft-colored stained glass skylights, immense main hall seating 2400 w/ 300 standing-room. Acoustics rated #3 among 58 world orchestral halls; but Magdalene is not familiar w/ our Troy Music Hall, where Yo-Yo Ma and others come to record.

          But enough of the sublime, now we have to brave the widest avenue in the world (some 16 lanes, several medians): Avenida 9 de Julio, named after Argentina Independence Day (1816). Passage is made more daunting by work on a new bus line down the central median that squeezes cars & pedestrians together, but we make it and continue on to Calle Florida, the main pedestrian shopping area w/ street performers (and pickpockets!). Watching street tango dancers Doug notes that tango moves are basic to ice dancing (for which wife Ann is a judge). 
          We follow a Frommer’s walking tour. 

Interesting interior malls: upscale Galerías Pacífico, Galería Mitre in colonial Spanish style w/ impressive murals, Galería Güemes w/ ornamental elevators. And all along we hear “Cambio! Cambio! Change money?” Tourist info warns about people eager to get American dollars for possibly fake local currency; there are so many touts, but they must make a profit somehow. Also touts for tango shows, but we’re already booked. More construction here for un nuevo microcentro. A break for Burger King sundaes; mostly so we can sit a while. Some confusion about streets, but we right ourselves back on Av. de Mayo, passing historic artistic & intellectual hangout Café Tortoni. 

Such a lovely city to stroll about, interesting images in every direction. 

          Back to Palacio Barolo to catch an English tour. An eccentric design based on Dante’s Divine Comedy. Guide Tomás takes us from Hell up 14 floors in an old ornate elevator to Purgatory. Then 6 more floors walking round-and-round a very narrow staircase, then 2 more even narrower flights, to reach Heaven  ̶  a real lighthouse w/ panoramic views over Buenos Aires in all directions just after sunset! A couple of young women in the group are a bit freaked out by the claustrophobic setting and height. A “small world” experience: most of this group are students plus a couple of faculty leaders from Alfred U near me in Western NY, and the wife of one of the leaders is a sociologist at Keuka College. Back to the hotel to relax and clean up. 

          Tonight is the optional Dinner & Tango Show at Café de los Angelitos; a tango experienceis highly recommended by tour books, this venue looked to be very nice. We’ve covered a lot of ground between the AM tour and our PM wanderings, hope there won’t be audience participation. A number of our group get pretty dressed up; Cheryl, Ali, Nancy, and Irene clean up real nice!

        Driving thru the lights of the city, Ariel gives some history of the tango. Frommer’s calls the tango “a dance of seduction and despair,” originated here by working-class men in the 19th C. First a dinner of excellent beef & decadent chocolate mousse cake. Then good singing and wonderful dancing in a very entertaining 1½-hour show that goes thru many phases and colorful costumes of the tango. Back to the hotel about midnight. 

Friday, June 14: 

          Much cooler today, mostly sunny but only up to high 50s, for the optional Gaucho Party at Santa Susana Ranch. A sweater & jacket day; Roland didn’t get the memo, wears shorts to his regret. Thought this might be a bit cheesy, but we can’t pass up the opportunity to get out into the Pampas and one of the famous estancias. Some people are taking a day trip to Uruguay. Doug & I have an after-breakfast stroll to Congreso, pretty AM lighting (always looking for photo ops!). 

An intriguing nearby building, windmill on top, looks like a mix of Hobbit & Gaudi (as we saw in Barcelona), but it’s all boarded up. I later Google Confiteria del Molina: built by famous Italian architect, coffeehouse was on the 1^st floor, a National Historic Monument but has been closed since 1997. 

          Onto the bus w/ only 13 from our group. It takes 1½ hours to get out of the city, partly heavy traffic (w/ lots of black-&-yellow taxis) but mostly due to many stops to pick up other people (something Cesar was not aware of). Oh well, more photo ops of interesting signs, doors, storefronts.

          Past a huge portrait of Evita on Ministry of Labor building; Cesar says we see her looking angry toward the north where the rich live, but the other side is smiling south toward the poor. Sexshop Erótica (we’ve seen others w/ more descriptive names) next to Lotería Nacional. Guide Sol joins us to give orientation about our day at the ranch, gaucho history, clothing, food. She says we’ll have empanadas so good “after these ones you can die.” Gauchos have a ring race; if they get a ring they pick a lady to kiss, her boyfriend has to kiss the horse. 

Thru big Palermo parks again, past a soccer stadium that also hosts concerts (The Stones, Paul McCartney). 

Into Las Pampas region, very flat plains; we’ve seen quite an ecological variety on this trip. Some people we picked up are dropped off at Temaikén, a large zoo; it’s low season, huge parking area is almost empty, and we’ll almost have the estancia to ourselves. 

We reach Santa Susana, about 80 km SW of Buenos Aires. Sol notes these are “original” gauchos, not just for show, and a working farm. Some welcoming empanadas and drinks, then various options before lunch: horseback rides, horse & carriage, house museum, or just more empanadas and drinks. I decide to hop on a horse (well, “hop” may not be quite the right word). It’s been a long time since I was on a horse, but he seems to know what to do as we travel in a group around a large field. My life as a gaucho! 

       

After dismounting, into the pretty house, 

views of the tall Pampas grass and interesting trees.

Then it’s time for lunch! Cesar gives an Argentine toast: “Arriba, abajo, al centro, al dentro!” (up, down, in the middle, inside). Lunch begins w/ family-style salads, then churisa (sausage) and blood sausage (not to my taste!), beef & chicken parrilla (plus tasty chumichera sauce), pastelitos (fried pastries) for dessert, plentiful wine & beer. 

An enjoyable show follows: singing accompanied by guitar & accordion, tango and other local dances, an energetic boleadoras routine (balls used by gauchos to capture animals) brings down the house. A friendly older gaucho brings women up to dance, Nancy & Les join in.             

Out for the ring race; quite a display of horsemanship, ladies get kisses and are invited to ride w/ a gaucho; Cheryl & Nancy accept the challenge. Into the nice gift shop for some purchases: a colorful bandana, interesting gourd mug w/ silver straw for drinking mate tea (called a “national obsession” by Frommer’s). Partly cloudy & quite chilly as we leave at 4:15 after 4 hours of good times. Back to the city as the sun sets about 5:30. This being the last night, we join our subgroup of new friends for some drinks & snacks.

Saturday, June 15:

          Sunny & chilly again, 40s AM up to high 50s later. At breakfast we hear Roland’s lament of being charged $90 for a small laundry load, and they lost 2 of his shirts! Some of our group leave for the airport at 8am, we’re glad to have most of another day in Buenos Aires. To Dia market around the corner to use last pesos: I get cookies for the plane, mate tea to take home. 

Streets very quiet on Sâbado, tho a long line outside the Peru consulate. We stroll more on Av. de Mayo, another Frommer’s tour. The metro (subte) here is the oldest in S. America, and the line along here was still using some old wooden cars, but they’ve all been retired now. And we’ve been enjoying walkin’ and gawkin’ along the streets. Interesting Art Deco and Art Nouveau windows, doors, facades  ̶  Marjorie would have a photo field day; I take some photos too! Hotel Castelan has a beautiful lobby; same architect as Palacio Barolo. 

          Surprisingly, we haven’t seen much about the new Pope, who was Archbishop here. Cesar says there was much excitement at first, but has calmed down now. Today we spot a poster that suggests his sympathies for workers and Peronistas, and a large congratulatory billboard for Papa Francisco on Av. 9 de Julio.

To Plaza de Mayo.      

Casa Rosada gates open a bit late as we’re about to wander away. Into a pretty courtyard w/ guards in fancy uniforms. 

Galeria de Patriotas Lationamericanos has many portraits, including Pancho Villa, Ché Guevara, Zapata, Juan & Eva Perón, Salvadore Allende. A free English/Spanish tour of beautiful rooms, including the President’s office, dramatic mural by Ricardo Campana, Salon Mujeres Argentinos w/ exhibit on (who else?) Evita.  

Idolos Populares: panels w/ photos of popular heroes in sports, music, etc., including Mano Ginobli (now playing in the NBA finals), a whole panel for soccer icon Maradona, and some cartoon figures.

Into Evita’s office and onto her famous balcony (♫Don’t cry for me, Argentina♫) w/ a fabulous view of the plaza. As we leave Doug chats w/ a summer intern from Austin. 

We hear a commotion in the Catedral: the place is filled, mass is being said (and broadcast to side aisles), altar seems full of church dignitaries, beautiful music, several outbreaks of applause. What’s going on? A woman in the gift shop speaks some English, says they’re installing a new bishop (or maybe archbishop to replace Pope Francis?).

         

Onto Calle Florida for last looks into shops; we get Lionel Messi t-shirts (the current soccer hero) for grandsons. Past Instituto Nacional de Servicios Sociales para Jubilados y Pensionados (social services for seniors & pensioners); as a gerontologist, can I stop in to chat and deduct the trip as a business expense?

We head to Café Tortoni for lunch, but there’s a line out the door. On to a similar café but no credito. Not to worry, we find a nice last meal, pizza (very popular here) & chicken, at Bar Iberia, a pretty little bistro. More wandering, then excellent treats at Calore Gelato Artisianade, a place Doug’s coveted (from his book) since we got to Buenos Aires. 

And next door is a place to show cat lover Mar: El Gato Negro Café. Back to the hotel to hang out a while. I ask Cheryl if she’s stowed a gaucho in her huge suitcase; “I wish!” she replies. A number of us onto the bus at 4:30 for a last ride, to the international Aeropuerto Ezeiza. Cesar, sensing my usual anxiety about getting to flights on time, assures me there’s plenty of time, on arrival announces my birthday tomorrow and gives me a special postcard from Iguazú. Flight is en horario (on time), efficiently thru check-in, security, passport control (where they take photo & fingerprints), a search of carry-ons after we enter the gate. Takeoff at 8:15pm, the plane is full this time.

Sunday, June 16:

          My already limited sleep is disrupted about halfway by a passenger ahead of me becoming ill. Early into Miami about 4am, it’s already 80  ̶  winter’s over! Immigration isn’t even open yet, so a few minutes wait on the plane. Several hours layover here. To finish my international travels, I help some German tourists figure out gate info for their flights. And now I feel at home: Dunkin Donuts & USA Today. Wheels up at 8:30. Fathers asked to applaud themselves to mark Father’s Day. Arrive JFK at 11. Coming out to look for my bus to Grand Central, there’s my best birthday & Father’s Day surprise: my boy Matt w/ his boys William & Miles to pick me up! Hugs and a drive into the city. I catch the 12:44 Metro-North to Poughkeepsie, pick up my car and onto the Thruway, home at 4:30. “Welcome Home!” & “Happy Birthday!” balloons greet me at the front door.

The trip fulfilled my expectations and hopes, and then some! Great sights and shows, great company and guides, great food, great weather  ̶  Muchas gracias por todo!