Ridin’ the Rails
Across Canada
September 2014
Wednesday, 9/17:
A sunny AM, a touch of fall in the
air at 50°. We’ve packed very efficiently per train guidelines, even some spare
space. Birthday Surprise #1: Marjorie’s jeweler boss Theresa, hubbie Glenn, and
triplets Sally, Charlotte, & Johnny, give a telephone rendition of ♫Happy
Birthday♫. Good Neighbor Tom’s Taxi Service gives a ride to the train station
for 10am “Maple Leaf.” An interesting juxtaposition while waiting: Buddhist
monks in colorful robes snapping photos w/ their I-pads. We enjoy watching an efficient
take-charge attendant announcing trains and moving folks along. Birthday
Surprise #2: I did a small splurge on Business Class w/ wider reclining seats and
other amenities for this part of the trip.
We head up and over the Hudson, nice views of the Albany skyline, along the Mohawk, pretty farmland and towns across NYS, paralleling a route we’ve driven many times tho different views from the train. Already feeling so relaxed, watching the world glide by. Birthday Surprise #3: a Happy Birthday text from friends Rocky & Bob (Marjorie has just started texting ̶ so 21st C!). We brought sandwiches/chips/cookies for lunch. Slowed by waiting for some long freight trains headed east, 2 hours late into Rochester, a foreshadowing of things to come.
Nice skyline view as we
leave, then sun gleaming off barbed wire at Albion Correctional Facility. Views
of Niagara Falls and Whirlpool Rapids crossing to Canada. Border security is
ready for anything ̶ one guard gets out of a truck w/ a window
decal: Zombie Outbreak Response Team. A conductor entrusts me w/ how to open
the rear train car door in an emergency; it’s quite complicated (I think I have
to do the hokey-pokey at the end) and thankfully not needed. Special Birthday Dinner:
PB&J sandwich, chips, grapes, cheese, a small wine box. A beautiful sunset
near St. Catherines. Into Toronto Union Station, in confusing disarray from
construction.
We head up and over the Hudson, nice views of the Albany skyline, along the Mohawk, pretty farmland and towns across NYS, paralleling a route we’ve driven many times tho different views from the train. Already feeling so relaxed, watching the world glide by. Birthday Surprise #3: a Happy Birthday text from friends Rocky & Bob (Marjorie has just started texting ̶ so 21st C!). We brought sandwiches/chips/cookies for lunch. Slowed by waiting for some long freight trains headed east, 2 hours late into Rochester, a foreshadowing of things to come.
to our Strathcona Hotel (this and our other hotels arranged via booking.com). A nice tidy “European” style room.
Thursday, 9/18:
A mostly cloudy,
cool day. After Tim Horton muffins, we drop off bags w/ friendly baggage
handler and head off. Toronto’s a lovely city: beautiful shiny buildings w/
interesting designs and shapes (and plenty more under construction),
sculptures, fountains, flower plantings. 
Many views of CN Tower (Note: the skyline photo below is from another trip).
On to Eaton Centre mall. “Urban Eatery” food court spreads on
& on; we have a light breakfast. Past another Canadian icon: a big Canadian
Tire store. 
To Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) w/ Frank Gehry renovation, across
from beautiful old row houses and “Village Idiot Pub,” checkerboard building
down the street. Friendly staff person teasingly challenges M’s “senior” status
(but not mine!).
Plus ship models and a model of the city. 
Then we go our separate ways on a
sunny PM: M to Chinatown and Kensington Market, I to the harbour. We rendezvous
at Union Station, then to the harbour for Greek fare at “Mr. Souvlaki”
overlooking the lake w/ planes to & from nearby airport, water taxis,
sailboats on a pretty evening.
Back to the
station, our “Sleeper Plus” tickets give access to the VIA Rail lounge w/ comfy
seats, beverages, computers to check e-mail, today’s Globe & Mail. Major stories: Scotland votes today on
independence from the United Kingdom; Toronto’s Rob Ford, “the world’s most
infamous mayor,” diagnosed w/ a rare cancer; growing concern about Ebola
spread; more NFL suspensions and controversy about domestic violence. The
world’s busy, but we plan to relax for the trip. People just back from
Vancouver warn us that the train will run late because it yields to freight. An
orientation gathering to sign in, set up lunch & dinner sittings; and there
seems to be a lot of gray & white hair in the line. Onto our train, “The Canadian,”
and our “Lorne Manor” car, we meet our attendant Chelsea. This car has 6 cabins
plus smaller “berths” or “roomettes” at each end.
The cabin has bunk beds (set
up for us at night by the attendant), sink & toilet; a shared shower down
the corridor. What, no balcony? But a good-sized window. Cabin door doesn’t
lock from the outside, so we’ll carry valuables w/ us. Sleeper Plus includes meals
in the dining car, plus snacks & beverages in other cars. We’re 1 car away
from the end Park car (w/ lounge & partial dome). Dining car is 2 ahead of
us, and then a Skyline “activity car” w/ café and another partial dome. 
Narrow passageways, especially past sleeping berths at night, We get
a printed guide w/ info about places along the route. Space is very tight w/
the beds down, but the comfy bunks make a little nest, w/ ledge & pouch to
hold stuff & a reading light. I manage to navigate w/o mishap the very
narrow ladder to the upper berth. I find sleeping on a moving train not so
easy, tho Marjorie seems to do OK. The train leaves Toronto 2 hours late at
midnight.
Friday, 9/19:
Beautiful
first views: mist rising over a pond, frost on fields, even some ice on ponds.
To the dining car for our 1st meal.
Nice ambience: pretty setups,
stenciled glass partitions, lots of windows for scenic viewing. Each meal
includes 4 entrée options that change daily. Breakfast includes chef-special
omelet, pancakes w/ Canadian (of course!) maple syrup. Back to the cabin, beds
folded up and replaced by 2 comfy chairs and good space.
We’re going mostly north, then west across Ontario above Lakes Huron & Superior, via metropolises like Felix, Gogama, Hornepayne, Mud River, Sioux Lookout. Northwoods scenery: pretty birch & pines; lakes, streams, and marshes; some spots of fall color. As warned, lots of freight trains to wait for. We pass a parked train w/ a big skeleton perched on the engine.
“Activity Lady” Jessica gives an orientation session. This train is pictured on the Canadian dollar bill. CN owns the tracks, hence the priority for freight. But she says not to worry, there’s a lot of flexibility built into the schedule. The train is pulled by 2 engines, 3000 HP each. There are 18 cars covering 1/3 mile altogether: baggage car, a couple of coach cars, 2 dining cars, 4 cars w/ partial domes. [There seem to be 3 realms: coach ̶ and we never seem to see the “coach people” ̶ and 2 pretty separate sleeping/dining sections.] Sleeper cars are named after famous people, dining cars after famous hotels. Jessica serves wine & pastries for a welcome reception postponed from last night. Our 1st lunch, including Canadian Angus burger, turbot & salmon salad, plus soup & dessert. (The food is excellent, and we were warned about the “5 pounds” train effect.) We sit w/ Rin & Val, Brits who now live in Scotland,
We’re going mostly north, then west across Ontario above Lakes Huron & Superior, via metropolises like Felix, Gogama, Hornepayne, Mud River, Sioux Lookout. Northwoods scenery: pretty birch & pines; lakes, streams, and marshes; some spots of fall color. As warned, lots of freight trains to wait for. We pass a parked train w/ a big skeleton perched on the engine.
“Activity Lady” Jessica gives an orientation session. This train is pictured on the Canadian dollar bill. CN owns the tracks, hence the priority for freight. But she says not to worry, there’s a lot of flexibility built into the schedule. The train is pulled by 2 engines, 3000 HP each. There are 18 cars covering 1/3 mile altogether: baggage car, a couple of coach cars, 2 dining cars, 4 cars w/ partial domes. [There seem to be 3 realms: coach ̶ and we never seem to see the “coach people” ̶ and 2 pretty separate sleeping/dining sections.] Sleeper cars are named after famous people, dining cars after famous hotels. Jessica serves wine & pastries for a welcome reception postponed from last night. Our 1st lunch, including Canadian Angus burger, turbot & salmon salad, plus soup & dessert. (The food is excellent, and we were warned about the “5 pounds” train effect.) We sit w/ Rin & Val, Brits who now live in Scotland,
Sunny earlier, then cloudy, and now
some light rain thru areas w/ more scrubby trees; white moose (“spirit moose”) here
are protected from hunting.
Folksinger Anna B is riding the train and
performing each day w/ guitar & banjo (plus passenger joining in now w/ a harmonica).
She sings her own songs plus Johnny Cash (♫I hear the train a-comin’♫), Joanie
Mitchell, and Gordon Lightfoot’s classic “Canadian Railroad Trilogy”:
♫There was a time in this fair land when the railroad did not run.
When the wild
majestic mountains stood alone against the sun.
. . .
For they looked in
the future and what did they see?
They saw an iron road
runnin’ from the sea to the sea.♫
A lovely interlude! Other optional activities: games, wine
& beer tasting, movies. We have a nice chat w/ a man from Winnipeg who used
to work for the RR. More good food for dinner: soup or salad, veal chop,
chocolate cake or cheesecake. We sit w/ friendly cabin neighbors Bob &
Linda from PA; he has a business insuring railroads.
Saturday, 9/20:
Some heavy
rain during the night. Thru rocky terrain w/ many lakes, then picturesque agricultural
areas: farms, hay bales, grain elevators.
About 1½ hours late into Winnipeg, Manitoba ̶ the geographic center of N. America. Several hours layover here, so we head out thru the pretty domed station to go exploring w/ Rin & Val on a cool AM (8°C = 46°F).
Some heavy
rain during the night. Thru rocky terrain w/ many lakes, then picturesque agricultural
areas: farms, hay bales, grain elevators. 
About 1½ hours late into Winnipeg, Manitoba ̶ the geographic center of N. America. Several hours layover here, so we head out thru the pretty domed station to go exploring w/ Rin & Val on a cool AM (8°C = 46°F).
The striking Canadian
Museum for Human Rights is nearby, a park set up for festivities during its
opening weekend; concert tonight will include Buffy Sainte-Marie, a
folksinger-activist we remember from our youth. A short walk, accompanied by
busy red squirrels, to a pretty stretch of government buildings, including the
legislative building topped by “Golden Boy” statue. 
Then to a colorful big
market at “The Forks” along the river. There’s also a little RR museum in the
station. A very pleasant stop. And when we depart we’re on schedule for the 1st
time! The crew has changed, the new people seem livelier, more “Type A” than
the 1st crew. We’re greeted by our attendant Marty. Some rain begins
just as we get going. 
A stop next to a llama farm. Then
it’s so flat for a long period, but also so beautiful: fields of
mowed or baled hay, iconic tall grain elevators, sun & pretty cloud
formations, splashes of fall color, cows and horses, geese overhead. Quite
idyllic, and have I mentioned how relaxing this is? Into hillier areas, more
trees and color. Rack of lamb for dinner, we’re now in Saskatchewan. It’s
getting hard to keep track of time
̶ from EDT in Ontario to CDT in
Manitoba, now in Saskatchewan which doesn’t do daylight savings, w/ MT & PT
still ahead. A brief stop at Melville, named for RR tycoon who died on the
Titanic. After-dinner chatting w/ Rin & Val in one of the dome areas.
They’re happy Scotland voted down independence from the UK. We learn of their
many travel adventures, from TransSiberian RR to New Zealand. We’ll
be sorry to say good-bye to our train besties at Jasper, but trade contact
info.
Beautiful lowering sun leads to a spectacular Saskatchewan sunset view from a dome. Marjorie stays up to
chat w/ an attendant, who regales her w/ tales from his 9 years on the RR. 
Thru an industrial area, oil tanks, a large railyard, hot-air balloon in the distance. Into Edmonton, home of West Edmonton Mall, the largest mall in N. America. [What’s the largest in the world, you might ask? It’s in Dubai, according to fellow passenger’s smart-phone.]
More wonderful views as we're underway again. 
Greetings from locals.
Monday, 9/22:
Summer ends
tonight. A spectacular AM, clear & chilly (about 50), but it will be up to
about 80 again today. Continental breakfast at the hotel, then back to Pyramid
Lake for sunrise. 
Heading north from town we come upon a cluster of tourist vehicles
on the side of the road, which can mean only one thing: wildlife! Several elk,
one w/ very large rack. 
A mid-AM nosh of
tasty muffin & coffee. And I’m still trying to figure out the hand-held
credit-card machine used everywhere here. [I do the broad trip planning, M
often handles on-site details: the cc machines, opening bear-proof garbage
cans, why the rental car’s brake indicator was lit.] Many
caribou-crossing signs along the road, tho we later learn there are more signs
than actual caribou (only 4 left in the park). 
Two persons in a red canoe bring a special family memory of my Mom and Aunt Dottie canoeing on L. Louise. It’s becoming a bit hazy, apparently leftovers from a recent forest fire.
Also beautiful in Marjorie's black-and-white rendition.
Lunch after the tour; we brought bread, cheese, and fruit, add hearty stew from the cafeteria.
Warming up
w/ more clouds in the PM. Back to the hotel to rest a bit, then to Icefields
Parkway. But first a booth where we have to pay for a park pass for our 2 days
in the area, since it’s all (including Jasper town) within the NP. First we’ve
heard of this; rental car people should have informed us, and we might have
gotten a fine if caught w/o a pass. More dramatic mountain views. Some
sprinkles & windy at Athabasca Falls, a sudden drop in temperature near the
falls.
On to “Goats & Glaciers” viewpoint: milky green river winding along
the valley framed by towering peaks, but no goats today. Weather changes again
to a mix of sun & clouds. An interesting variety of weather and lighting
conditions make the mountains look so different for photo ops.
Another
gathering of vehicles along the road ̶ a black bear ambles down the hillside and
across the road (and there are bear warnings around). Cool & some light rain by evening. Excellent dinner at
Fiddle River Restaurant. I stay local w/ Bison Lasagna, but M has Atlantic
salmon.
Another
gathering of vehicles along the road ̶ a black bear ambles down the hillside and
across the road (and there are bear warnings around). Cool & some light rain by evening. Excellent dinner at
Fiddle River Restaurant. I stay local w/ Bison Lasagna, but M has Atlantic
salmon.
Tuesday, 9/23:
In the
news: US begins airstrikes against ISIS in Syria. Cooler today, 50 at the start
to mid-60s PM. Some sun w/ pretty low clouds among the mountains. We head north
toward Miette Hot Springs and possible good wildlife views. Barely out of town
we encounter many cars and many elk. A short walk to Punchbowl Falls; next to a
bear warning sign, but no bears. A pretty drive, here & elsewhere many
“CanaDream” rental campers. A few more elk, a marten (large weasel) in a picnic
area, more reflection photo ops.
Our train to Vancouver is running over 4 hours late getting here; nobody seems surprised, it can be 10-12 hours late in summer. Not to worry, more time to wander the town. More sun & blue sky now. A good lunch at Smitty’s. Into the Visitor Centre. We decide we don’t need the brochure on “Living with elk during the fall rut,” but get a t-shirt and Christmas ornament from Friends of Jasper Park (aka “Friends in High Places”).
Marjorie continues to make friends w/ 8’ bears, in the centre and later w/ a
statue of local symbol Jasper the Bear (“born” in 1948), who we’ve seen in
various guises including holding a trash can at our hotel (see above). 
Finally on
the train and our car “Dawson.” Greeted by our attendant Claude who directs us
to a champagne welcome reception. Off we go. Past Mt. Robson, at 13,123’ the
highest in the Canadian Rockies. Dinner of prime rib & duck (we’re
certainly being fed well!), sitting w/ an interesting man who splits his time
between Jasper and Vietnam. He tells us some about the route, paralleling an
oil pipeline, the Fraser R and rapids. Heading into British Columbia (and time
change to PT), up to the dome for a while as the light fades.
Wednesday, 9/24:
Thru and
down from the mountains during the night. I’m up early as usual and chat w/ one
of the attendants. She works 5 days, then 9 days off. She works 6 months
because of low seniority; fewer staff needed when the trains are only ½ this
size after peak travel. A dark & rainy AM, low clouds among the hills along
the river, agricultural areas including fields of blueberries. Past lumber
yards and lumber floating in the river. Fraser R is also the largest salmon
source. Heavy rain as we near Vancouver. After all the delays thruout the trip,
we’re less than an hour late at the end!
Sky clearing as we exit the station, PM mix of sun & clouds. Thru a park w/ many geese (Marjorie says “No photos!”) to the SkyTrain station. One of our train attendants, now in his civies, orients us to the ticketing. Into the city, a short walk to our Days Inn Downtown: in an older heritage building now surrounded by modern skyscrapers in the heart of downtown, a couple blocks from the harbour.
M
decompresses a bit, I do some exploring. Like Toronto, beautiful buildings and
pretty plazas w/ plantings and sculptures.
I walk along the sea wall a bit;
stay clear of the bike path!
Sky clearing as we exit the station, PM mix of sun & clouds. Thru a park w/ many geese (Marjorie says “No photos!”) to the SkyTrain station. One of our train attendants, now in his civies, orients us to the ticketing. Into the city, a short walk to our Days Inn Downtown: in an older heritage building now surrounded by modern skyscrapers in the heart of downtown, a couple blocks from the harbour.
M
decompresses a bit, I do some exploring. Like Toronto, beautiful buildings and
pretty plazas w/ plantings and sculptures. 
I walk along the sea wall a bit;
stay clear of the bike path! 
Thursday, 9/25:
In the
news: OMG, the new I-Phone bends!; release of seal pups by Marine Mammal Rescue
Ctr “causes cuteness levels to rise in Burrard Inlet.” Mostly cloudy w/ a few
early sprinkles, up to about 60°. Breakfast paninis at Sciué café. M heads to
Gastown to explore shops; she was also intrigued by a Church of Scientology
last night . . . hope I see her again. I walk to Stanley Park, passing Trump
Hotel and Tower (he’s everywhere!). Stanley Park was named best park in the
world on TripAdvisor. 
Many walkers, joggers, cyclists; beautiful trees & flowers; colorful totem poles; views across to the city and white sails of Canada Place. We reunite and head out again. Some signs of Canadian politeness: parked buses say “Sorry . . . Not in service;” workers are stationed to apologize for blocking the sidewalk w/ equipment.
To the architecturally striking
Vancouver Public Library w/ 6-story interior atrium, shops & cafes on 1st
level. A slice of pizza and wonton soup for lunch. Overhearing our regret that
there are no tours, a man comes over to introduce himself: Howard Greaves, former head of library
fundraising, now Chair of book society Aucuin. He’s pleased to hear someone
interested in the library. A delightful conversation w/ a lovely man; M relates
some stories from her mother’s days as a librarian. Breaks of sun now. 
M stays
downtown to poke around more, I head back to the harbour to see more of the
“public art” common here, including sculptures “Blue Drop” (a tall thin blue droplet)
& “Digital Orca” (made of black & white blocks like Legos).
Back to
Gastown for dinner at The Old Spaghetti Factory, M deems it “lively and cozy.”
After-dinner strolling: pretty street lamps, lights in trees, colored lights on
some buildings. Steam Clock gives a rousing performance at 8:00. Back to the
hotel, TV highlights of Derek Jeter’s final game at Yankee Stadium; a Hollywood
ending: game-winning “walk-off” hit in the bottom of the 9th!
Friday, 9/26 & Saturday, 9/27:
Marjorie up
very early for 3:45 taxi to get to 6am flight to SF, then to KC to visit her
sister Mary. I feel so sorry for her early wakeup . . . but wait. My timing is
more civilized for 11:15 flight to Chicago, then to Albany. After a rainy
night, still some light rain for my short walk to Waterfront Station w/
beautiful old interior hall. SkyTrain to YVR airport.
I check in, easily thru
security and US customs. Then UH-OH!! Flight delayed 3 hours . . . but that’s
just the beginning. A fire in a control center has grounded all flights into or
out of O’Hare & Midway! [I eventually learn this was caused by a
disgruntled and suicidal former employee.] I’ll spare most of the details and
whining. I’m “lucky” that my flight is finally able to depart for O’Hare 6
hours late; many, many flights are canceled, agents trying to re-route folks
(it looked for a while that my best bet might be flying to Newark).
Into O’Hare just before midnight, able to get a seat on Sat. evening flight to Albany (tho not a sure thing, since many flights still being canceled). I have a pass for the United Club Lounge from our United credit card, but it’s not open overnight. Given the hour, I (and many other strandees) spend the night in the terminal. Into the Lounge about 5am, continental breakfast and a relatively comfortable day. One last glitch: my 7:30pm flight to Albany is delayed an hour when they have to change planes due to mechanical issues. But finally to Albany, a taxi home about midnight. Still some adrenaline flowing so I go on the computer until 1:30am to make FastPass arrangements on attractions for our Disney World trip in November w/ our grandsons (and their parents). But that’s a story for another journal.
Into O’Hare just before midnight, able to get a seat on Sat. evening flight to Albany (tho not a sure thing, since many flights still being canceled). I have a pass for the United Club Lounge from our United credit card, but it’s not open overnight. Given the hour, I (and many other strandees) spend the night in the terminal. Into the Lounge about 5am, continental breakfast and a relatively comfortable day. One last glitch: my 7:30pm flight to Albany is delayed an hour when they have to change planes due to mechanical issues. But finally to Albany, a taxi home about midnight. Still some adrenaline flowing so I go on the computer until 1:30am to make FastPass arrangements on attractions for our Disney World trip in November w/ our grandsons (and their parents). But that’s a story for another journal.
Marjorie
returns Sept. 30. She has some “traffic control” delay for flight from KC to
O’Hare, but just able to catch her flight to Albany. Arrives about an hour later
than scheduled. She gets no sympathy from me.
What a
trip! Wonderful
sights & scenery, even the flat prairies were interesting and beautiful. And
such a relaxing way to travel! Comfortable panoramic viewing from the domes.
Friendly and interesting travel companions. Excellent train crews; 3 different
teams, each w/ its own personality. Excellent river-cruise quality food in a
pretty dining car, interesting and diverse choices. Quite cooperative weather. There
were plenty of train delays; you just need to be flexible. Altogether “The
Canadian” took us 4466 km (2775 miles), plus about 400 mi
Albany-Toronto. Manitoba and Saskatchewan brings us now to 9 Canadian provinces
in our travels, and an even greater appreciation of daughter-in-law Anthea’s
native land.
♫O Canada! Where pines and maples grow,
Great prairies spread and Lordly rivers flow!
How dear to us thy broad domain,
From East to Western sea!♫
Great prairies spread and Lordly rivers flow!
How dear to us thy broad domain,
From East to Western sea!♫
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