Choir Italy

Choir Tour of Italy

Summer 2007

            Planning for this international concert tour (OK, maybe that’s a bit over the top) began some 3 years ago w/ an audition tape to the Vatican.  This is the end of my 2^nd year w/ the St. Pius X choir, so some might think I just jumped on the bandwagon.  Not so.  I joined at Marjorie’s urging to help get my mind off department chair annoyances, initially didn’t plan to go on the trip  ̶  we had a wonderful fall trip thru Italy about 10 years ago and M wasn’t so interested in Italy July heat.  And after all, I’ve done a choral tour.  Yep, freshman year, U of R Men’s Glee Club, exciting venues like Detroit & Guelph.  But Italy and singing for the Pope has a bit more cachet, even for an old Presbyterian, plus the choir’s a terrific bunch who’d be fun to travel with.  Decided I shouldn’t pass up such a special experience.  Thought we might find a last minute bargain for Marjorie to join us for the weekend in Rome, but couldn’t find anything reasonable.  She participated in fundraising activities, and has been my personal travel planner for cool washable clothes & a carry-all bag (since I won’t have her purse to rely on).

            The choir’s been very busy over the past 2 years.  Fundraising included a wonderful concert by visiting Vatican organist James Goettsche, a Cafe Italiano soiree, raffles, Christmas ornaments, “greatest hits” choir CD.  Sweet white-haired Sister Mary, who’s also our flutist, proved quite a bargainer in wangling a terrific deal for buses from Albany to the airports (there’s talk that eternal damnation was mentioned in the negotiations).  Arrangements in Italy made thru Peter’s Way, specialists in such tours (Marjorie’s brother-in-law Jeff’s Kansas City choir used them for a similar trip).  The Vatican says choirs must dress uniformly  ̶  we didn’t want robes, instead selected black blouses/shirts & pants, the men’s mandarin shirt collars making us look like a gaggle of seminarians.  And extensive & challenging music.  Charles, our terrific director (just in case he reads this), has done a wonderful job bringing us along, introducing each piece in sections so we become comfortable over time.  Catchy titles like Ave Verum & Cantate Domino, many Italian & Latin lyrics to learn how to pronounce.  And over the past few months he’s peppered us with all sorts of travel reminders and tips; and I thought I was obsessive about travel details!

Friday, June 22:

            We give an Andiamo a Roma concert at church with all our Italy music.  After some rehearsal confusion about lining up and marching in, Marjorie says our procession is impressive.  Don’t know that “master” is the best word, but it seems we’re on top of the music.  I’m next to a tenor w/ a big voice but feel good that I’m able to hit my bass notes w/ confidence (mostly, anyway).  A standing ovation from the audience, Charles seems pleased.  Guess we’re ready; maybe Charles won’t make us practice on the flights and bus rides.  And my chiropractor, who I’ve seen after back problems on our early May Greece trip, says my joints are aligned and good to go.

Tuesday, June 26:

            We gather late AM at St. Pius.  A hot day here, will be up to the 90s.  105 “pilgrims” (as Peter’s Way calls us) including 34 choir members (2/3 of the full choir, w/ 6 of us basses) plus Fr. Farano (I suspect he’s especially looking forward to the cuisine), family, friends, other parishioners.  John G’s voice booms out herding us into our 2 bus groups: I’m with British Air from Newark to London to Milan, others go Air France from JFK to Paris to Turin; we’ll rendezvous on Lago Maggiore.  2½ hour ride to Newark, plenty early for flights.  Mike C and I have pizza to get in the appropriate culinary mood.  Off about on time at 6:45.  Sitting next to Bill & Kathleen McA; Bill & I talk about our shared enjoyment of trip planning.

Wednesday, June 27:

            Arrive London a bit early at 6:10am (5 hr time difference).  Walking thru Heathrow I tell Fr. Farano about son Matt’s culinary faux pas (grated cheese on fish!) that almost got him thrown out of a Spoleto restaurant by an insulted chef; Fr. Farano relates how Bishop Hubbard created a similar stir in Sorrento.  We change terminals, thru security again, then shorter flight leaves at 8:30, arrives Milano a bit late at 11 (another 1 hr time difference).  Sunny & clear, Sheila M’s excited to see Alps in the distance as we come in.  Easy thru passport control, baggage, customs to meet Peter’s Way rep Elizabeth.  We have a double-decker bus that will be with my “blue” group for the tour, Elizabeth as our guide (she’s Austrian w/ Italian husband).  A plus for us blues: a more expansive view from up top (where I sit) plus a bit more space to spread out than the “white” bus.  Elizabeth introduces bus driver Massimo, says “means Maximum, but I’m not the Minimum.”  Details about our touring, Italian history & culture.  She says “60% of the world’s culture is here,” but how do she calculate that?  A first tip: “Be patient.  Everything in Italy is approximately.”  And a warning: “you might need a vacation after this vacation” (she repeats this at the end when we can understand its truth).   

Drive from Milan to Stresa on Lake Maggiore goes thru many tunnels, pretty mountain and lake views, to Grand Hotel Dino right on the lake at 1:15.  My roommate Bob K’s a tenor, but I think we’ll get along OK.   

We have a very pretty 5^th floor room w/ lovely wooden desk & armoire, balcony w/ view of lake and town.  This hotel is several more stars than Marjorie & I use when we travel. 

Partly cloudy, nice temp, into shorts to stroll around: lakeside promenade, church w/ covered walkway and murals, pretty flowers all around.  A lovely place to start the trip, more interesting and scenic than expected; plenty of photo ops for Mike C & me.  BBC breaking news: “End of an Era: Gordon Brown takes over from Tony Blair.” 

Turin bus finally arrives, we split into 4 groups for a boat tour.  A perfect late PM on the lake: bright sun, palm trees, green mountains surrounding us, snow on distant Alps.  

On to Isla Bella and Borromeo family palazzo (and, by the way, Napoleon slept here). Very large, impressive interior, spectacular views of lake & mountains, several levels of gardens w/ preening peacocks.  

 Most of us too pooped for another island, instead back to the hotel to relax before dinner.  I already feel guilty Marjorie’s not here; an e-mail (for 35 cents/minute) to let her know we arrived smoothly.  First dinner is w/ George & Mary D, Carol S & daughter: choices of pasta or cream of veggie soup, veal or fish, tiramisu cake.  Best hotel dinner of the trip (which, many would say, isn’t saying much).  Several other groups are here, including one rather loud program during our dessert.  After dinner more strolling, I scoop up some sand and pebbles for stepsister Mar’s international sand collection.  This has been a great start; many wish we could stay here longer.

Thursday, June 28:

            As usual during travels I’m awake too early (4:30); we get programmed wakeup calls at each hotel, but Bob & I don’t need them.  Today’s regimen: 7:30 suitcase outside the door, to breakfast, on the bus by 8:30.  CNN: Pakistan floods, L. Tahoe wildfires, continuing storms in Britain; and Paris Hilton’s out of the slammer.  Was 112° (45 C) in Athens yesterday; forecast here is 25-30 C.  “I love you” note tucked in my jeans by mysterious “M.”  A beautiful AM on the lake, a couple photos to start the day.  Extensive buffet breakfast (again, best of the trip): pancakes, eggs, sausage, bacon, many breads/pastries, cold cuts, fruits, cereals.  Classic sports car group out front as we leave for 1½ hour drive to Milan.  We’re now divided into our blue & white bus groups w/ “captains” to count noses in both.  My buses to & from airports have mostly whites, but I’m now fully blue and can spread out on 2 upper seats.  I confess to looking down at “bus people” on our mostly independent travels in Europe, but it’s nice having someone else attend to details and just ride along.  I enjoy chatting during the drives w/ bus neighbors Marian N & her sister & 2 nieces and Grace T from Virginia, sister of Carolyn L-T.  Grace (and later Mike C) asks for copies of my journal; I retain all movie rights.  Thruout our drives Elizabeth keeps up running commentary on this & that, from details about euro currency to ancient toilet taxes to Milanese fashion.  What accounts for the good weather?: Italians say “When angels are on tour the sun is always shining.”  Into outskirts of Milan, first stop at Santa Maria della Gracie. 

A beautiful old church (suppose we’ll see more of these?), pretty side chapels w/ family tombs.  An open booth for confession as tourists file by.  Some of us are scolded by a Dominican priest for talking too loud.  Into the city, a walk to the ornate Duomo.

 

 

 Some orientation, then on our own until 2.  Quite warm today, tho OK if not in direct sun.  I’m particularly struck by statue of skinned martyr St. Bartholomew in the Duomo.   

Into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (an early enclosed “mall” w/ glass & ironwork dome, murals high above tiled floor), La ScalaLunch (crepes for me) w/ Rene & Cecilia T in “AutoGrill.”  Can’t use toilets because power has gone out, I find a decent WC in a metro station for 35 cents.  Our bus is parked in front of Silicon Valley Chorale  ̶  will we have a choir competition?

Onto the bus for a drive past Bologna to Florence.  We can get bottled water from Massimo for 1 €.  No bathrooms on the bus, but Elizabeth promises a rest stop “before you start doing Handel’s Water Music.”  Autostrada drive thru flat farm country, lots of corn & hay bales; did we miss a turn and wind up in Indiana?  It’s quiet on the bus, punctuated by occasional snorebursts from the pilgrims.  We sail past big IKEA Deposito Centrale to a rest stop near Parma (home of parmesan cheese, also an area known for balsamic vinegar).  Munchies are bought in a grocery store within the rest area; but we pass on beer & wine.  Mike C tries for the 2^nd time to get on another tour’s bus; have to keep an eye on him.  On the road again: oohs & ahhs over expansive fields of sunflowers, pretty views thru Appenine Mtns, more long tunnels.  “SOS” turnouts for emergency phones.  Out of the mountains into Tuscany, cypress & olive trees abound.  Another pretty evening as we arrive in Firenze and Hotel Raffaello about 6:45.  It’s your basic city hotel in a commercial area N of city center; we feel a bit let down after last night’s resort.  Able to unpack a bit more, finding more notes from M.  Dinner w/ Bob K, Marian N & her kin: rigatoni, chicken, creme brulee.  A bunch of us including Mary & George D, Camille & Drew A go for after-dinner stroll around the neighborhood, but nothing very interesting.

Friday, June 29:

             CNN: new “smart phone” said to be greatest telephone advance since Alex. Gr. Bell.  A pretty AM, no clouds.  Bob & I discover his coded key doesn’t work if mine does and vice versa; we finally go down together to get a fix.  Off to Mass at Church of St. Mark  ̶  Charles’ sneaky way to get some concert rehearsal?  A pretty church, tho scaffolding inside.  This was set up as “our” Mass (Fr. Farano has arranged several “private” Masses on the trip), but a priest w/ Irish brogue who’s visiting from NJ (how’s that for an unexpected combo in Florence) takes over the gospel and homily; we’re disappointed, Fr. Farano only notes later that “Italy is full of surprises.”  Choir gets a round of applause; Charles says later this was our best Cantate Domino because we were thrown in and too scared to think about it.  Local priest comes out at the end  ̶  “Tante gracie!  Viva America!  ̶   earning his own round of applause.      
          

Now we have a walking tour w/ guide and headsets for each of our 2 groups.  Off we go toward the Galleria dell’ Accademia.  Could I look any more like a tourist?: carryall over my shoulder, camera bag on my belt, name tag.   

Very crowded outside as a union work slowdown delays entry.  Only 500 allowed in at a time + metal detectors + no photos  ̶  very different from 10 years ago when Marjorie & I just walked in with no crowds;  maybe I can make a few bucks selling my David photos from then.  If the museum doesn’t open Elizabeth suggests one of our men might play David’s role; the women seem to find this an interesting idea.  Another option is to buy a poster out here, but the women seem insistent on full-size David.  Sidewalk vendors seek our commerce while waiting, from posters to beads to toys.  Then, as Elizabeth foretold, they suddenly pack up and leave when there’s word of the “financial police;” but they’re back just as quickly.  We enter the Galleria and our local guide Jovanna keeps up an interesting running commentary thruout the day (I hear the other guide wasn’t quite as good; advantage “blue” group again).  Lots of info on Michelangelo’s career.  I remember the beautiful David from our previous visit, and the room full of student sculptures.  There’s a special exhibit of musical instruments, including a marble guitar!, and bassoon and oboe shaped like dragons. 

A stop outside the Duomo  ̶  exterior is beautiful but Jovanna says (and I recall) interior not so interesting  ̶  and bronze Baptistry doors.  

  We’re surrounded by lovely bells & chimes at noon.  On to Piazza della Signorina, which Jovanna calls an open-air museum (tho now full of setup for upcoming concert).  Here and elsewhere many outside sculptures are copies, originals in museums.  

And beautiful building facades. You now need reservations months ahead for nearby Uffizi art museum; artist/art teacher George D scored a ticket for the PM.  

 Last part of our tour is the piazza for Basilica di Santa Croce (Holy Cross), w/ very pretty white exterior.  Several of us skip leather demo to find lunch.  Paula, Doris, and I find we’re in a different restaurant section than the rest; enough room for P & D to join the rest after I decide (selflessly!) to forego lunch for more sights and some shopping; well, maybe not so selfless, since I make a gelato stop (a straciatello/tiramisu combo).

 

It’s getting hotter (mid-to-high 80s?), definitely need my sunscreen.  Into Santa Croce w/ many famous Florentines entombed; especially impressive tombs of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante.  A longer walk up to the open-air market by Basilica di San Lorenzo and some shopping success. 

I spot Ristorante Nuti, a nice informal place where Marjorie & I ate a couple times.  Still wandering, to the Mercato Nuovo w/ famous Porcellino (boar) statue and shiny snout from rubbing for luck.  Nearby Ponte Vecchio w/ its fabulous jewelry.  A few photos for Theresa, M’s jewelry designer boss.  

  Pretty views of river and hills beyond, several rowing shells; but no sign of the huge rats M and I saw in the river. 

Back to Santa Croce where I meet Camille & Drew at a cafe; she heads off to shop so I can sit to get some rest for my feet.  Everyone gathers here to walk to the buses, then to the hotel.  We pass carabinieri (military police) school.  I e-mail Marjorie before dinner w/ Rene & Cecilia and others; Sister Mary brings a 1 € tip to “Rene the porter” for carrying her flute bag to the bus.  Dinner is veggie/pasta soup, veal, tiramisu gelato.  After dinner chatting on the terrace w/ Mike C, Drew, Tom C, and others.  But I poop out early  ̶  a long day, lots of walking.  CNN: car bomb found and defused in London.

Saturday, June 30:

            I’m stiff from yesterday’s walking.  Hazy sunny AM, forecast to 90 in Rome today.  The regimen: 6:30 luggage out, 7:00 breakfast, 8:00 bus leaves.  Pretty 2½ hour drive past Perugia to Assisi, pretty views of Tuscany and Umbria  ̶  sunflowers, vineyards, corn, even a mall!  ̶  more commentary by Elizabeth: bass/soprano from basso (below)/sopra (above); pizza margherita named after last Italy queen; flag colors are white (cheese), red (tomato), green (basil); St. Francis is patron saint of Italy and invented the nativity scene/creche.  She says we’ll enjoy the clean air and peace in Assisi; we’re “headed for chaos” in Rome.  Assisi is on a mountaintop (at 6000’, I think she said), but first stop below at Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (St. Mary of the Angels) where St. Francis died.  Elizabeth hustles us to restrooms so we don’t have to wait behind the “whites.”  Another enjoyable local guide Giuseppe describes local flora; many groves of olive trees here, the whole area around town is a UN World Heritage site.  The church has a beautiful interior, lighter and more like rococo German churches; but no photos here. 

Gold statue of John Paul II in the square outside. 

We hustle to the escalator up to Basilica di Santa Chiara (St. Clare); the nuns close promptly at noon for lunch.  Another pretty church, St. Clare lying in the crypt; again no photos.  Many bells at noon.  In the main square is a Roman Minerva temple, now baroque church.  Very hot now in the sun (I don’t feel so guilty Marjorie’s not here), we’re hustled along to the Basilica di San Francesco.  Beautiful Giotto frescoes on the life of St. Francis; damaged by 1997 earthquakes, restored but w/ some white areas; oldest stained glass windows in Italy; but still no photos!  And Silenzio!  

 

A nice lunch break at Hotel Subasio in a lovely setting: open-air terrace under a grape arbor, panoramic view of valley below.  A table w/ Bob K & Marian N et al., the food’s a treat after some unexciting hotel dinners: pasta carbonara, salad, gelato (pistachio, coffee, hazelnut mix, I think). 

St. Francis a favorite of Marjorie’s, after lunch I have some good memento shopping success for her and other family.  Another Mass arranged for us, Fr. Farano not upstaged this time.  He says guides have told so much about St. Francis he can toss the first 6 pages of his homily, yet he doesn’t seem at a loss for words (just teasing, Father).  A very thoughtful discussion of what St. Francis’ conversion experiences mean, asking God what we can do with our lives.  A large and echoing space makes it hard to coordinate choir w/ organ and director; mistakes are made.  But a rousing finish w/ “How Great Thou Art,” our pilgrim cheering section says we sounded great. 

 We leave Assisi a little after 4; Elizabeth says buona notte so we can rest awhile.  More pretty rural scenery.  At 5:30 Elizabeth resumes commentary with mythological and real history of Roma, from Romulus/Remus to creation of Vatican state.  Outskirts of Rome at 6:15, past gypsy camp of shacks and old trailers.  Main road blocked off so we’re caught in a traffic jam.  Elizabeth doesn’t have much good to say about Roman lifestyles, adjectives like “dirty” and “chaotic.”  We see lots of graffiti, but then past Hall of Justice with sculptures of philosophers.  

 First to Palazzo Cardinal Cesi, former palace then convent where some are staying just up the street from St. Peter’s.  Elizabeth had joked earlier that Palazzo folks will have 9:45pm curfew and 4:30am wakeup for morning prayers.  Then on to Starhotel Michelangelo where most of us are staying, St. Peter’s looming at the end of the street.  Dinner w/ Kay & Tony H, Dave & Joan A: ziti, pork (or veal?  ̶  there’s some debate).  Then the lights go out, a birthday cake brought in for 2 of our group.  On a less happy note, CNN reports a car bomb at Glasgow airport, US and Britain on “critical level” alert.  Will this affect our return?

Sunday, July 1:

            Hazy AM sun; hot today?  CNN: Bush and Putkin meeting at Kennebunkport; Princess Di memorial concert tomorrow.  After more limited breakfast at Raffaello, a more extensive buffet here.  A Globus group is arriving; other groups come and go during our stay.  Some people having reactions to the olive tree pollen, which bothered Marjorie in Greece (still trying to assuage my guilt that she’s not here).  

 Our group looks so nice, choir in concert garb, nonchoir also dressed up.  Charles says no “Rome Pub Crawl Tour” today.  I step outside, street vendor says “good morning, Father;” maybe he’s kidding, but perhaps I can get clergy discounts in my choir outfit.  Sheila’s carrying a toy duck to give to James Goettsche (an inside choir joke). 

A walk to St. Peter’s, after going thru security we do our warm-up hoo-hoos etc. and some rehearsal as tourists file past and snap photos.  Fr. Farano: “This is just St. Pius on a bigger scale.  They’ve got nothing on us;” then (just in case?) he leads us in prayer.  We’re principal choir for 10:30 Latin Mass at the main altar, televised to the square and on Vatican TV.  No pressure there!  After walking in past so many beautiful sights (including Michelangelo's Pieta) and another choir (is this “Roman Idol?) we set up in the choir area but some have to sit to the side. 

The schola cantorum (papal choir), 7-8 men (led by a Canadian), is at our side  ̶  thankfully, they take the lead on the very complicated chants; after hearing us stumble a bit thru practice at home Fr. Farano suggested we sing softly.  It’s quite warm, the Mass book serving well as a fan.  An impressive procession, many purple/red-robed cardinals, other celebrants in green robes, incense, light streaming down from dome windows.  What a scene!   

One of Charles' trademark rubber ducks sits on the organ bench for luck. Then our young Mike R at the organ w/ Maestro Goettsche at his side  ̶  what a thrill for him!  And we do a wonderful job!  Or at least it all feels wonderful!  Afterward we’re treated like rock stars, even strangers taking our picture. 

Off to the Papal blessing in the square.  St. Peter’s is so beautiful; much of the front was covered for work preparing for the Jubileo when Marjorie & I were here (I suspect people may get tired of my memories of “the old days”).  The square is only about 1/3 full so we don’t have to struggle to get a view.  

 Papal greetings in Italian, English, German, Spanish, maybe a few more.  Then we have photos taken by one fountain of the choir and of the whole bunch of St. Pius pilgrims. And Photoshop enables me to give an exalted view of Charles and Fr. Farano.   

Back to the hotel, out of my soaked concert attire into shorts and t-shirt; ahh, much better.Over to the Palazzo w/ its pretty interior courtyard.  I meet Mike C, Camille & Drew A to wander a bit: Castelo San Angelo and bridge views of St. Peter’s, busy Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, pretty winding streets; and we get in some shopping along the way.  Near St. Peter’s there’s a poster for our concert tonight.  Back to the hotel to shower and relax for tonight. 

 Dinner w/ Kathleen & Bill McA, John & Phil G, Sheila M; more mediocre hotel fare: bowtie pasta, veal (tho again varying opinions of what it is), cake.  Onto the bus w/ more commentary, past Vittorio Emanuele Monument, Trajan Market (the 1^st shopping mall).  Then a short walk on a pretty evening, past Trevi Fountain, to Saint Ignatius church for our concert.
 

           Bishop Hubbard was ordained as a priest here.  Pretty ceiling murals and painted dome illusion; side altars, including figure of an altar boy that could easily be one of the street mannequins we’ve seen.  Non-choir free to go to Piazza Navona, Pantheon, other nearby spots; choir stays to rehearse. Jeff said his KC choir was pretty much in tears because they sounded so good here.  As we start warming up, our first chord echoes . . . and echoes . . . and echoes . . .  This is a special place!   

 

Fr. Farano leads us in prayer, then: “God bless you, and knock ‘em dead!”  We have a challenging program of 13 pieces, 2 organ pieces in the middle for a break.  We’d originally included “Va, pensiero” (aka “Chorus of the Hebrew Slaves”) from Verdi’s Nabucco, which has a special place in Italians’ hearts, but it was nixed by our concert sponsors as not “sacred music” (tho we sang it at St. Pius w/o being hit by lightning).  Hope our voices hold out to the end; I’ve brought a fistful of lozenges.  Our host introduces us and director “Char-less Jon-ess.”  The audience grows to about capacity, maybe 4-500.  Despite pre-concert confusion, nobody is injured processing or recessing for intermission.  “Lord Triumphant” (from Cavalieria Rusticana) gives us a rousing climax.  A standing ovation!  Our host, who’d been a bit agitated about the program length, now asks for an encore, so another round of “Lord Triumphant” and another standing O.  After accepting accolades and many photos, we regroup on the outside steps, audience in the square, traffic passing between us and almost running over Charles (is this a Fellini film?), to use what remains of our voices for “Va, pensiero.”  Bus back to hotel, Elizabeth so carried away she sings like Marlene Dietrich/Lily Marlene.  What a day!  This is why we came!

Monday, July 2: 

            Another sunny AM, looks to reach 90 today.  I’m stiff from yesterday’s walking and concert standing.  CNN: 1.6 mill copies of the final Harry Potter book sold on Amazon tho not released for weeks, the actor is youngest to be in Madame Tussauds.  E-mail from Marjorie: yesterday’s Mass back home went well w/ Frances singing beautifully and Charles’ friend Chris “spectacular” on the organ; I’ll let Charles know.  Off on the bus for a busy touring day, heavier traffic, Elizabeth resumes commentary.  Past the jail, which was a nunnery; she says it’s the cheapest hotel in the city, but always full.  She points out Trastevere, a Greenwich Village type area of artists and literati.  Circus Maximus and arch of old Roman aqueduct.  Local guide for the rest of the day.  Into San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains), full of scaffolding when M & I were here.  Moses statue now cleaned up and beautiful. 

Over to the Forum, very warm now tho it’s only 10:00.  We stop by restrooms w/ an area under trees a bit cooler; guide gives commentary here rather than stop us in the sun.  Like Pompeii, still evidence of ancient carts in the stones here.  Colosseum is next w/ a break afterward that doesn’t seem long enough to do much; today and some other parts of the trip they’ve maybe tried to fit in too much.  I skip the spiel at the Colosseum  ̶  been there, done that.  A panino roma (salami and cheese) to eat on the steps of Universitat di Ingeneria, then some more shopping.  Back at the bus Cathy L demonstrates the best hand gesture to accompany a firm “No!” to shoo away sidewalk vendors. 

On to Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (St. Mary Major), 1^st Western church dedicated to Mary.  We get headsets for PM touring; clouds and breeze have cooled things, some sprinkles later.  This is a darker church, pretty columns and stained glass window at one end, beautiful baptismal chapel, ceiling of carved wood edged w/ gold. 

To Basilica di San Giovanni Laterno (St. John in Lateran), Rome’s cathedral.  Doors from the Roman Senate, an open central hallway lined w/ large sculptures of apostles.  The eyes tend to glaze over from these fabulous churches; if you saw only one you’d think it must surely be the most wonderful!  Artist George D is especially enjoying the fabulous artwork in the churches.   

          Next is Basilica San Paulo Fuori le Mura (St. Paul Outside the Walls) near the “beheading field.”  Pretty decorated exterior, bronze door dedicated to John Paul II, interesting lighting thru alabaster windows.  Another very ornate ceiling w/ gold trim, portraits of all the popes circle the interior, a pretty courtyard w/ rose garden.  I’ve been feeling some congestion, so I lie down a while before dinner.  Dinner w/ Deb H, Sue B, Janet & Marjorie H: cannelloni, veal again, apple cake.  Photographer has brought proofs for us to select prints from yesterday’s Mass and concert.  I head over to St. Peter’s for some evening photos.  Coming back a stop for gelato w/ Cindy P & Margaret S.  Then to the hotel piano bar for a nightcap w/ Mike C and Camille & Drew A.  Up to the room but Bob is already asleep so the bellhop lets me in.  Buona notte.

Tuesday, July 3:

            Sunny AM again!  Can’t complain about the weather, even tho it’s been pretty steamy a few times; CNN reports lots of rain in most of Europe north of us.  Today’s schedule rearranged w/ AM Mass and Vatican tour later so there’s less free time; I may skip the Vatican tour to see some parts of Rome I didn’t see before.  The Mass means more singing  ̶  I’m pretty stuffed up now, any voice left?  I can hit the low notes, so Elizabeth & I talk about doing a Lily Marlene duet.

  Fr. Farano presides over Mass in a side chapel at St. Peter’s.  There are also some wedding parties here taking photos.  Hooray  ̶  they’re taking up the chairs outside, so tomorrow’s papal audience will be inside (sparing us the possibility of sitting several hours in hot sun).  I head out to see more Rome.   

Across the river, past Chiesa Nuovo (“new church” only a few 100 years old) to Campo di Fiore, a place Marjorie would like: an open-air market w/ flowers, veggies, fish, pasta.  More shopping; this has been by far my busiest and (I think) most successful travel shopping experience (maybe motivated by continuing guilt).  Briefly into Trastevere area, pretty grounds of a villa visible over a fence, but to find interesting stuff I’ll need to delve deeper than I have energy for.  Very warm again this AM (and a steamy PM) so my walk is working up a good sweat, plus lots of traffic and noise.  Grilled ham/cheese panini to eat back at the hotel, plus a change of clothes.  CNN: Bush commutes prison sentence of White House aide Scooter Libby. 

          I’m back in time to join Vatican Museums tour.  45 minute wait outside, tho able to find shade for most of it.  Wish I knew Italian: an animated conversation between our guides and young women handing out headsets for tours.  Very crowded, can’t hear well thru headsets or understand our local guide very well.  She duels w/ other guides to get position, nags us to keep up, seems to have some rather odd “facts” (e.g., about “the last dinner”). 

The Sistine Chapel has people taking flash photos and buzz of conversation despite continuous exhortations against both.  Those of us who’ve been here before remember a much quieter, more respectful setting.  Not what you’d call a satisfying experience, certainly not contemplative.  Even so it’s an amazing work of genius, especially evident following the restoration.  A number of us leave the tour at this point to go off on our own.

            A little relaxation before dinner.  CNN: highlights of Turkish oil wrestling championship.  Over to the Palazzo to join Mike C, Camille & Drew A.  Cappuccino first, then taxi to Fr. Farano-recommended Ristorante Abruzzi near Piazza Venezia.  A wonderful shared dining experience: 2 appetizers (melon/prosciutto, mixed antipasti), 3 pastas (Fr. Farano’s favorite rigatoni carbonara, tortellini, spaghetti w/ tasty tiny clams), 3 meats (lamb, veal picata, sea bass), washed down w/ mineral water (“with gas”) and red wine.  All that’s left of my voice is a Marlon Brando Godfather imitation, but I try to keep up my end of conversation. Is there a clergy discount?  ̶  I meet someone else here because of a priest’s recommendation.  A perfect evening so we stroll back. 

Trevi Fountain crowded even at 10:30, beautiful lighting; Mike & I toss in coins (and I toss one for Marjorie).  Restaurants busy, shops open, lots of people out and about.  A gelato stop: my favorite straciatello plus hazelnut.  As we near the Palazzo bright lights and cheering on the street. It’s Hurley of TV’s “Lost”!, here for Roma Fiction Fest.  Back to the hotel to wrap up a fabulous night!

Wednesday, July 4:

            Sunny at first but mostly cloudy AM.  I can talk but don’t know if I can sing at the papal audience (heard after our return that a number of us suffered from “Blue Bus crud”).  Not sure what to expect at the audience.  Elizabeth said things will be boisterous and rowdy, we don’t have specific seats reserved so “use your elbows” to fight for spots.  We line up outside security at 7:30; we can see a phalanx of Swiss guards, a number of couples in wedding garb to be blessed.  We’re let thru security at 8:30.  Brides in full dress sprint across the courtyard!; Fr. Farano discourages such behavior in our group.  Some confusion because we don’t have individual tickets, but Elizabeth to the rescue.  Turns out to be not nearly as crazy a scene as expected. 

A large pretty hall, big oval stained glass windows on each side, modernistic sculpture on stage.  We find a good central location, rearrange to get the choir together.  Now we wait for the Pope in a festive “pep rally” atmosphere.  A group from Tahiti in front of us, Munich behind, bands in the back of the hall (Happy 4^th!: we hear Star Spangled Banner, My Country ‘Tis of Thee, Battle Hymn of the Republic), choirs all around warming up w/ cheers from the crowd.  Mariachi band from Majorca brings down the house.  So many colors: flags and banners, hats, t-shirts, bandanas.  John G leads us in revising one of our songs to be “Soon and Very Soon We’re Going to See the Pope.”  Thru all this the cardinals remain sedate on stage.  We’re told the Pope is stopping first to greet those w/o tickets in St. Peter’s; he’s shown on a TV feed to the side of the stage.  Then a big cheer when Il Papa walks out on stage at about 11.  Readings are done in several languages, the Pope makes initial remarks in Italian, visiting groups introduced according to their language (French, English, German, Spanish, Italian, Polish, maybe more?).  When announced each group jumps up to sing or play or just cheer and wave hats, scarves, etc.  Elizabeth warned us to be ready to stand up right away to sing  ̶  “You snooze, you lose.”  We’re able to get in our selection, the last 2 pages of “Holy City;” very rousing and it earns applause.  The Pope makes remarks in each language, offers further remarks and blessings at the end.  Sorry Marjorie missed this (oops, there’s that little guilt thing again). 

          Done about 12:30, partly cloudy now, back to the hotel.  I start organizing my packing  ̶  not only am I shopping on my own, but can’t rely on Marjorie to handle packing.  Then off to the Catacombs.  Only about half are going, so we just use the “blue” bus; Elizabeth says “be nice to the white people.”  Another no-photos place.  Tour begins at an underground basilica.  This area was for burial, nobody lived here.  We tour the largest of some 60 catacombs: it’s 11 miles long, held 100-150,000 burials.  A labyrinth of passages and chambers, small “slots” in the walls thruout for remains.  An interesting fresco in one chamber, a bit of a garden area outside.  Massimo swings thru the city for more sights, including old baths set up now for outdoor concert.  After all her detailed commentary, Elizabeth says we have to pass exams tonight.

            Farewell dinner at Ristorante Quo Vadis on outskirts of Rome.  Lots of traffic but a pretty evening for the drive out.  I join a table w/ Fr. Farano, Charles & his friend Lynn from NJ, Camille & Drew A.  Dinner includes prosciutto/melon, ravioli, soup (pasta fagioli, I think), veal w/ potatoes (that seems to be the national group dinner!), insalata, dessert choices (I pick profitero, a decadent cream puff swimming in creamy chocolate sauce)  ̶  and some wine is consumed as well.  A foursome for musical entertainment: guitar, accordion, flute, a singer w/ operatic voice.  A boisterous good time!  Sing-alongs range from “Volare” to “When the Moon Hits a You Eye...” to “Va, pensiero.”  Neighboring group starts “Star Spangled Banner,” so we all stand and join in.  Singer Sonia does a seductive Carmen swirling around a red-faced Fr. Farano.  Terry M & Dave A dance a polka.  Don B, of “Cat Bite Fever Psalm” fame (another inside choir joke), creates a revised “Lead Me Lord” for us to sing  ̶  “Lead Me Cha*les (and Tony)” (all Rs removed to reflect Charles’ disdain for that consonant’s effect on our diction).  Tony K presents Fr. Farano with vestments from the Vatican & Charles with a fancy watch to express our appreciation for all they’ve done to support the choir and this trip.  Terry M also presents gifts of appreciation to Tony & Mike R for their excellent instrumental and other work on the trip; there seemed to be no rest for “Copy Boy” Tony  ̶  to adapt Elizabeth’s comment about a certain unreliable Italian car, it was a FIAT trip (“Fix it Again Tony”). 

Farewells for our musical leaders and tour guides.

Thursday, July 5:

            Sunny again.  I think I’ve packed efficiently and securely to protect my shopping loot.  Lots of tissues for my nose; Dave A gives me some lozenges and I’ll get more to use up euros at the airport.  Alessia’s checking the luggage in the lobby.  The Air France group had to leave very early, we British Air people have a more relaxed AM (but we’ll get home much later).  A smooth ride to Leonardo da Vinci Airport.  I ride in front up top for the first time, a pretty wild viewpoint as Massimo wields the bus thru traffic.  We’re 3 hours ahead of our flight, which proves fortunate  ̶  altho I’m at the beginning of the line for our check-in, it takes almost 2 hours for the whole group to get thru what Elizabeth warned us was very inefficient service here by British Air. I’m a security problem: first I beep at security, so they have me place each foot on a machine to check my shoes; then I’m randomly pulled aside at the gate (how embarrassing, being frisked as the pilgrims file past!).  Mike C & I switch seats so he gets his preferred window, I get an aisle for legroom and ease of getting up to stretch; my usual fine deal-making, as he winds up in a bulkhead seat with loads of legroom and nobody sitting next to him!  An hour late leaving Rome at 2:30, into wet and cool London Heathrow at 4 with 2½ hours until the next leg.  Again thru security to change terminals.  7½ hour flight to Newark.  I’m too tired to finish reading Marjorie (and Oprah) recommended Poisonwood Bible about Baptist missionary family in the Congo in 1960+.  We arrive a little early at 9:30pm, some fireworks in the distance as the plane descends.  Our group of 57 quickly thru passport check, baggage claim (tho bags missing for 2), customs.  Trailways bus waiting right outside; I’m so glad not to have to drive home as we usually do on our trips.  Paul the happy driver greets us, says we’ll start with bingo, then off we go.  Back to St. Pius at 1:30am, earlier than anticipated.  Marjorie’s there to greet and hug.  Has she had a relaxing time?  No, the day after we left a ferocious storm flooded our basement so she’s been handling that ever since.  Now I really feel guilty!

As wonderful a trip as anticipated, with some truly special experiences.  I took nearly 500 photos, but Mike C shamed me with over 1,000!  ̶  as I’ve said before, digital means never having to say you’re sorry for taking more photos.  I missed Marjorie.  She’d certainly have enjoyed the trip, especially our Sunday activities, and it felt odd to be without my best travel buddy.  But it turned out fortunate (tho not for her!) to have someone back at the house.  Bob was a good roomie, but I never slipped into saying “good morning, sweetie.”

Peter’s Way did a fine job arranging and riding herd on the tour.  Some complaints here and there  ̶  they may have tried to squeeze too much in, hotel dinners weren’t that great  ̶  but group tours always involve some tradeoffs versus the more independent travel I’m used to.  The guides were very personable, informative, well-organized.  Alessia, the “white” guide, was very nice, but Elizabeth seemed to have more detailed info and I liked her sly sense of humor.  Both commented on what a good group we were, very “collaborative” as Alessia said.  The bus drivers wheeled us around expertly, especially Massimo w/ the double-decker plus trailer at the back for luggage.

A big thanks to Charles.  I’ve found the choir to be a wonderful learning experience.  Charles presents us with some challenging music, brings us along carefully, works on breathing, diction, other nuances.  Dr. Truitt, my high school chorus director, would approve.  Plus one tip for this trip: look like we’re enjoying ourselves and the audience won’t notice missed notes.  Charles makes things enjoyable and puts up with our kidding, including Frank from the tenor back row: “Do you want to hear a joke?”  Charles has done a wonderful job of both preparing the choir musically and planning the many aspects of the trip.  But when asked if he would do this again, he says yes, if someone else does the planning.  And Fr. Farano brought a special presence.  He was there to ground us in the religious significance of the settings and our experiences.  And he does know Rome, from ristorantes to late-night walking tours.

It’s been a wonderful group to travel with.  I’ve enjoyed sitting with different people at meals and chatting on walking tours, getting to know both choir and other pilgrims better.  Been spotted mumbling into my voice recorder, people wondering what’s in my journal.  Don’t worry, no juicy dirt.  We in the choir feel very proud of our efforts.  One or two slipups, but maybe that will keep us humble.  And now, to paraphrase a bit: We’ll always have Rome!