Morocco

 Morocco

September 2026

            Morocco has been on my trip to-do list, partly because it seemed the best way to “check off” Africa, thereby accounting for every continent; well, except for Antarctica. Gate1, with whom we’ve done 9 excellent trips, offered 2 possibilities. One advised against if “difficulty walking” due to “challenging terrain, steep steps” etc. The other, a “Stay & Explore” style, was described as a “customized experience as leisurely or enriching as you prefer” with stays in 2 cities. The latter “9 Day Tastes of Morocco” seemed a better choice for my “shit for back” (as once described from a view of my MRI). We’re joined by long-time friend Diane, with whom we’ve enjoyed previous trips.

Some background: The Kingdom of Morocco (an anglicization of the Spanish Marruecos), "land of the distant sunset," is at the crossroads of Europe & Africa, with coastlines on the Mediterranean & Atlantic. The Atlas Mtns, the "roof of Morocco," have the highest peak in North Africa (almost 14,000’). Ruled by a series of dynasties beginning in the 7^th C, Morocco was divided into “protectorates” by France & Spain in 1912, regaining independence in 1956. It has the 5^th-largest economy in Africa, tourism one of the most important sectors. A population of about 37 million is predominantly Muslim, the culture a mix of Arab, Berber, African, and European, recognized as World Heritage by UNESCO. Arabic & Berber the official languages, French and a Moroccan dialect of Arabi also widely spoken.

Some concern in May & June from Ebola in the Congo & Uganda, a strain with no vaccine or specific treatment, WHO designates a Public Health Emergency of International Concern. Morocco, however, is far from the outbreak, has seen no cases, and not considered at risk; similarly, no cases in the US and the CDC says “low risk” to the American public & travelers. My personal trainer, Leni, shares reports from another client who traveled to Marocco in June, had a wonderful time without incident. One suggestion: drink bottled water. A week before the trip I get an injection for my back by my ortho doc to help (hopefully) with walking tours on the trip. Dr. Ansari, who’s been to Morocco and his daughter spent part of her honeymoon there, has good things to say, especially the food. & tea. And we learn that Matt’s father-in-law Brian will be going to Morocco soon after us. Seems a popular place.

Diane arrives Sunday from Santa Fe. That gives time for her to see our new digs at Beverwyck Senior Community. Diane is looking to move into a similar senior community in Madison WI. Now in our 5^th month, we’ve settled in well, lots of new friends & activities; indeed, sorry to miss a Men’s Breakfast, Women’s Lunch, End of Summer Patio Party, and more while we’re away. But we’ll have plenty of opportunities in the future. For now, we immerse Diane in Beverwyck: breakfast bunch in the lobby, Labor Day dinner with friends Maud & David and Gloria. To Betty & Stan’s apartment to see Stan’s clock collection and other beautiful art & memorabilia—it’s like a museum!

Then it’s time to pack. What to pack for the weather? Our 1^st stop has forecasted highs hovering around 100°. The 2^nd stop on the coast is 20° cooler. No sign of rain.

 

9/8-9, Tuesday/Wednesday: “The Road to Morocco”

A beautiful sunny AM to begin our adventure. A quick ride from Beverwyck to Albany International Airport, still in the throes of construction after many years. Premier Limo 8:45 shuttle to JFK, chatty driver Susan has her own music. Down  the Thruway, over the Tappan Zee Br. Occasional traffic backups, some from US Open Tennis, but we make good time. A nice view of Manhattan skyline from Whitestone Br. JFK has its own never-ending construction of a “New JFK.” Check-in not open yet for Royal Air Maroc, so we kill time by Dunkin Donuts. Check-in opens, accompaniment by a child with incredible screaming! We get a wheelchair flotilla for a long walk to the airline lounge for 2 hours to unwind, a good buffet & wine. Marjorie googles my ramblingwithruss blog to find it has earned a positive online reputation.

            We splurged on our flights: Business Class to protect legs, backs, etc. from the long overseas flights to & fro. [Against our wishes, after selling their Queens coop apartment Matt “repaid” money we gave them to buy a connecting studio apartment, so thanks to Matt for our Business seats. And now they’ve found an excellent place to live near Port Washington on Long Island.]

           

We board for our 7-hour flight (with 5-hour time change). More breakfast in Business than I can manage, sun streaming in thru the windows. Over arid landscapes. On time arrival at 8:50am to Casablanca. But no Rick’s Café for us, just passing thru. A longish walk thru the beautiful airport to domestic connections, thru security & customs; “Welcome! We love Americans, except Trump!” We’re all pretty wiped out, some time to relax in a small lounge with breads, fruits, and drinks. Onto a small propellor plane, more small pastries & tea for a short flight to Marrakesh, arriving 1:00. A beautiful airport. Exiting baggage claim, there’s our guy holding a Gate1 sign!

1^st sighting of a camel and horse-drawn carriages on the drive to our 5-star hotel, Movenpick Hotel Mansour Eddahbi Marrakesh in Hivernage district.. A “contemporary oasis” in the heart of the city set amid 5 hectares of lush gardens. "The Victorious" (al-Mansour) and "The Golden" (Eddahbi) are nicknames of the 6^th Sultan of the Saadian dynasty, who led Marrakech through a cultural renaissance. 

The lobby houses a fountain topped by a monumental drop-shaped copper chandelier beneath a beautiful dome. A water channel (seguia) extends from the fountain into the gardens.  A woman is playing a piano nearby. I explore a bit more, it’s a huge complex: lunging areas, grounds, pools, restaurants. A Petits Sultan’s Kids Club. Large Globus and Travel Connections groups staying here, as well as a rather secretive group that won’t let anyone near their “private events” areas. I was even blocked by several rather brawny guys from using an ATM. We’re also a bit annoyed that our room contains no information about the hotel and various services.

           

We gather to meet Tour Manager Safi. Our group numbers 15, including several cousins traveling together, and a couple and a single guy from Alabama. Safi details outings, departure arrangements for our bus, breakfast schedule, currency (1 Dirham = 0.11 US$), etc. More wandering afterward. The hotel grounds are beautiful at night, including a walkway thru palms leading to where Diane’s room is in another building some distance from ours.

 

9/10, Thursday: “Explorations with New Friends”

           

Partly sunny, “only” 90 today (Saturday forecast is 106!). A large array of buffets and beautiful seating areas for breakfast. A small gray “hotel cat” wandering about. [As we also saw in Istanbul, stray cats are found throughout the city, reflecting Islamic norms of compassion and communal care for animals.] “Robby the robot” glides among  the tables, peacocks strut outside. I’m able to use an ATM to repay a loan of local currency from Safi (he says, kidding I think, I have to repay him every morning).

Time to board our Atlas bus for a 1^st included excursion, bringing our “whispers” to hear Safi’s narration. We meet the rest of Safi’s team: driver Isham & helper Giwid, plus today’s local helper Hamed. Bottles of water handed out whenever we get on the bus. A drive along President JFK Highway. Past pretty designs found throughout the city on walls surrounding construction. Traffic a mix including carriages & motorbikes. 

Safi points out a neighboring church & mosque as a sign of religious tolerance, a point he makes several times during our travels. This morning a walking tour of Marrakesh. The 4^th-largest city in Morocco, it lies west of the Atlas Mtns that separate the Sahara Desert from the Mediterranean Sea & Atlantic Ocean. Founded 1070 as capital of the Almoramd dynasty. Nicknamed “Red (or Ochre) City” reflecting red sandstone used for buildings. The old fortified city is “packed” with vendors & their stalls.

We begin at the iconic Koutoubia Tower, a 12^th C mosque, known for its minaret 70 meters high pointing in the direction of Mecca and towering over the city skyline, visible from miles away. The mosque is adorned with curved windows, a band of ceramic inlay, and decorative arches. Safi explains its construction and the meanings of various components (I can’t go into all the details here!). Unique to Koutoubia Mosque is its lack of an entrance for non-Muslims, to preserve its sanctity & spiritual atmosphere.

Next to the Medina (Old Town), a UNESCO World Heritage site, an “intoxicating blend” of ancient culture, colorful markets, and stunning architecture, with labyrinthine alleyways filled with “hidden treasures.” At its heart is the Djemaa el Fnaa Square, a market full of spices, traditional Moroccan goods, musicians, and more. We cross lots of traffic onto the square, many motorbikes (reminders of our trip to Vietnam). A long line of horse carriages. A monkey tamer. I’m conscripted to take a photo of 3 tour members posing. Past the oldest hammam (spa) from 1562 pour femme. 

Into Dar el Bacha Palace, built in the early 1900s. Beautiful mosaic tilework. By now Diane has made a new friend, walking arm-in-arm with Hamed and learning a lot about each other.

We enter the market area. Along alleyways, motorbikes squeezing thru; walking through the colorful souks, where artisans sell everything from handwoven textiles to jewelry to fragrant spices, and pottery. We’re told it will be much more crowded at night; we learn next day that the Alabama couple gets quite lost at night. 

We head back to the hotel, passing a wall of photos of the royal family and a snake charmer in  the square.        

A lovely young staffer takes us to a relaxing spot by the pool near Diane’s room, with misting from above for cooling. A good spot for some tasty Casablanca beer (which becomes our addiction for the trip). Many olive trees around, but past the pollen season that bothered Marjorie so much in Greece. I then take a short nap in our room, waking up thinking it’s the next morning! Ice cream for we 3 from nearby DipNDip, then actual bedtime.

 

9/11, Friday: “A Delightful Day”

           

I continue catching up on sleep: an unusual 8 hours! A nice AM view from our room. Some early wandering & photos of the pool, a pretty seating area, peacocks. A group of golfers heads out of the hotel. This morning is Marjorie’s optional cooking class excursion. While they wait to board, I arrange with Safi to be added to tomorrow’s hot-air ballooning (my back & leg feel OK to climb into the balloon basket). Safi also arranges a 2-hour horse-and-carriage ride for Diane & me (for $25, imagine that in NYC!) while Marjorie cooks.

To begin the half-day Cooking Class, Marjorie can “sit back and relax as you ride a horse-drawn carriage through the lively streets of Marrakesh.” "Dada chefs" show how to prepare traditional Moroccan tajine and salads, then the 13 participants (8 from our group) can “savor your delicious meal.” They make dessert “very fun.” Marjorie receives a certificate for finishing “with  honors.”.

Diane & my carriage ride, with guide/driver Mohammed, begins along Bd. Mohammed VI, beautiful plantings in the median. Past the Ramparts, City Hall, a casino, fancy hotels. the Theatre Royal, an Artisanal Complex, a Jewish area. Mohamed says “no picture” at the presidential residence. 

Many beautiful views. We see much more of the city’s vibrancy. Common blue, white, & red flowers. Olive trees. Independence Square brings a 10-minu break for the horses. A hotel break afterward for Casablanca beer & lunch.

           

In the late afternoon we visit Majorelle Garden. It’s 99° now, I bring my walking sticks for better leverage. Begun in 1923, it spans 2½ acres with a collection of over 300 plant species from 5 continents, reflecting pools, and ornate fountains. Safi recounts the history of the gardens, including the neighboring museum of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent (who is buried here) and his villa with private garden. The lush gardens are beautiful: cactus, palms, flowers with brilliant colors, goldfish. A cobalt blue ("Majorelle Blue") is used thruout. 

           

Driving back to the hotel Safi poses a question: Does the Koran say how many wives should a man have? The answer: it’s up to the 1^st wife. Safi says he’s been waiting 24 years for the OK. To the hotel pool for Casablancas (which have unusual “pop top” caps) with appetizers & ice cream.

Diane says the day is “delightful!” Marjorie says it’s her “favorite day of the trip!”

 

9/12, Saturday: “In the Air and On the Road”

Initially Marjorie is the only one of our 3some with the nerve and/or agility for today's optional Hot Air Balloon Ride. But as in Turkey, I relent and join with some confidence now in my back & legs. Up at 4:30am to meet with another Gate1 group at 5:15 for a 45-minute caravan of vans to the takeoff point outside Marrakesh. Each group gathers in a tent. Our pilot Kaylee gives details on the flight. [Later she notes that our ballooning site in Turkey, Cappadocia, while spectacularly scenic is “the least safe in the world”!] We’ll be up about an hour, about 1000’ above the ground, traveling up to 7 km. We’re assigned to specific sections of each basket (some 15 or so in each basket); I make it in, tho quite ungainly.

Some 60 balloons fire up and begin to rise at 7, sun rising about 7:30. It’s  beautiful to watch, almost a sci-fi view as the balloons rise. Then quiet except for the sound of occasional firing the balloon (we can feel the heat on our faces) and roosters crowing below. Views of the foothills of Morocco's Atlas Mountains. A drone darts around taking a video—which can be purchased, of course.  

Flight completed, we receive certificates documenting “ventured aloft over Morocco.” A breakfast is served.

Back to the hotel at 10 to finish packing, put luggage outside our door for the trip to Essaouira. Marjorie finds herself locked in a lobby restroom, rescued by maintenance workers. Busy along the beach. 

We head out of Marrakesh, past a beautiful train station. Safi talks about increasing education and youthfulness of the population. Much water comes from the Atlas Mtns. There’s a ski area near Marrakesh! Lots of new construction along the road, but we also pass some very scruffy places. Miles & miles of olive trees; Morocco is a major source of olives & olive oil for Europe. A truck jam-packed with live chickens; Safi: “dinner tonight.” An area of new construction where natural gas was recently discovered; it’s also a “cemetery of old cars.” 

A rest stop for light lunch. Views of flowers & arid landscape.

A stop at the Argan Cooperative to view traditional methods of extracting Argan Oil from the argan tree, native to Morocco. Women working by hand, with music & singing. The oil is used for cooking, as well as medicinal & cosmetic uses; also used to dip bread in at breakfast or to drizzle on couscous or pasta. Further along, Safi points out vegetation and sources of wood products.

We reach the coastal city of Essaouira, originally Mogador from Phoenician for “fortified city;” also known as Astapor for scenes in Game of Thrones. 1^st discovered by the Phoenicians, then the Romans conquered the city, which ended up under Portuguese rule in the16th C. It gained prominence in the 18^th C when fortified by Sultan Mohammed III. Under Portuguese, French, and Moroccan rule, the city became a busy trading port & cultural melting pot. Essaouira has a tradition of ecumenism, with places of worship for Islam, Judaism, and Christianity. It is a small walkable city. Ramparts were built in the 1760s to protect the city from invaders. The Skala du Port (an artillery platform) is a gateway to the fishing port.

We stop for a brief city tour. Oh, what a nice cool breeze! Colorful markets in the Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, smaller than Marrakesh, not the chaos of crowds, motorbikes, labyrinths. Safi says the cheapest taxis in the world are here: 8 Dirhams (less than $1) for any ride! Lots of cats wandering about.

To our Hotel Atlas Essaouira & Spa, a 5-star hotel on the beachfront. Some photo ops of kites & windsurfers off the beach. Essaouira is known as the “Wind City of Africa.” The hotel not as huge & complex as Marrakesh. We have a very “minimalist” room, no drawers, few hooks to hang things. We relax a bit, catching up with news on the TV. US politics are no better. Celine Dion will have her 1^st full concert in 6 years tonight. A more troubling report: “Will AI kill us all?”

9/13, Sunday: “Game of Thrones and Cats”

            Up early as usual, down to the pretty breakfast area looking out onto the beach. A lovely AM, people walking on the beach. Beautiful distinctive Norfolk pines, some small, others very tall. A large offshore island has a mosque at one end. Very relaxing.

            The day begins with a walking city & fortress tour with local guide Hassan. Tho this is the “Wind City,” not so much this morning, but a bit hotter than expected here (up to 91° today). Hassan gives some history; e.g., this is the furthest Romans came into Africa. This was the 1^st international port in Africa. The large offshore island is known for a “Hippie Village” with such as Jimmy Hendrix & Cat Stevens. Another island is a bird sanctuary. Hassan says don’t worry about windsurfing, “all the sharks are vaccinated.” 

Many cats & seagulls around, tho we’re also accompanied for a while by a dog. Walking past the ramparts and imposing Portuguese tower. Pretty wild garlic flowers. 

Into the port area, many beautiful historic blue fishing boats dominate the waterfront; Hassan makes a point that all are named after wives & mothers. He points out symbols of Islam, Judaism, & Christianity on a “Tolerance Gate.”

            Orson Welles filmed “Othello” here; many other movies filmed here. More recently, much filming for “Game of Thrones” done here. Hassan talks about some of the things that had to be done; e.g., moving where fishermen cleaned their catch so the many seagulls would not disrupt shooting. We follow along the ramparts and up onto the Skala for panoramic views of the coast and the Purple Islands (Îles Purpuraires). The name of the islands goes back to Phoenician & Roman times and production of Tyrian (royal) purple dye extracted from sea-snails.

Back to the hotel for a while. Marjorie & fellow traveler Geraldine take a taxi for grocery shopping at Carrefour. I stroll around the hotel courtyard and busy beachfront. 

In the news: following Michael Jackson and Queen, Wembley will have its 1^st Punjabi headliner, Diljit Dosanjh; a sellout, estimated crowd 90-92,000. We take a taxi to Safi-recommended La Coupole for an excellent dinner.

 

9/14, Monday: Art, Music, and Dance

            Another beautiful day, sunny & warm. Marjorie is sleeping well, wants to take the pillows home. In the news: Celine’s return concert was triumphant. The NY Giants open the season by beating the Cowboys. We did not opt for the Camel Ride at Essaouira Beach this morning, but later I’m able to capture the scene from long range.

Bus shuttle to the Medina for our own adventure: Gallery la Kasbah, that offers the “essence of Moroccan art and culture.” One of TripAdvisor’s Top 10 Things to Do. In a beautiful restored 18^th C Riad, the ground floor alone has 11 halls, many different schools of art: Realism, Abstract, impressionism, surrealism, symbolism, and calligraphy. We ask a man for directions only to find he’s the manager! Learning that Marjorie is an artist, Halim takes us under his wings (and lets me take photos!). The place is jam-packed with beautiful art on 3 floors (tho we don’t try to go up the difficult stairs). Diane & Marjorie make some purchases. Diane is quite enamored of a very tall elegant colorful crane sculpture. Halim says he can arrange to have it shipped, total cost a mere $14,500. Diane demurs. 

To finish our stay, Halim prepares Moroccan mint tea and tells us of the history of the riad, from an 18^th C minister of the sultan to Jewish traders letting camels stay in the building. What a wonderful experience this has been!

Diane & I head back to the hotel, Marjorie stays longer among the shops. She returns later with several small bags made from scraps at a women’s cooperative. A light lunch at the hotel. Late afternoon is partly sunny, hazy, 92°. More action on the beach.

Back to the Medina. We’ve elected the optional Gnawa Music & Dance Performance with Cocktail & Henna. Gnawa music is a fusion of West Africans brought to Morocco, combining ritual poetry with traditional music & dancing. Musicians play ancient instruments like the guembri in colorful robes. Lots of fun. Percussion & singing by 2 young men dancing & jumping energetically, experts at tassel spinning from their hats. Audience invited to join the dancing, Marjorie joins in. Food & drinks. 

Henna artists apply intricate designs on hands using natural henna paste; Marjorie participates.

Walking back to the bus as call for prayer sounds. Back to the hotel. Pretty evening views. A crescent moon over the ocean. Marjorie: “Our best day!”

 9/15, Tuesday:-“Farewell”

            Mostly overcast & cool. News: The Supreme Court rejects Trump’s efforts to limit mail ballots before the midterm elections. Current El Niño may become the strongest ever. Today we retrace our drive back to Marrakesh.

            A rest stop has an ATM, more local currency for tips to Safi, Isham, and Giwid. On the road Safi provides more info on history & culture. Efforts to standardize 3 spoken Berber languages. Still some traditional views on women’s roles. One of us notes our female balloon pilot; Safi (with a grin): “you’re lucky you’re alive!” No religious clashes; the King protects all religions. Lessons from the Koran on alcohol use & other matters. Increasing importance given to education. Whew, I can’t keep up with him! 

More views along the countryside. Thru agricultural areas. Hard to stay awake for more photos. Hazy sun & clouds as we’re back on a toll road. 

Outskirts of Marrakesh about noon (92° here, 77° in Essaouira). Heavy traffic. I’d be scared to drive here: lots of traffic circles where cars, motorbikes, carriages seem to come at you from all directions! A few die-hard shoppers get off at the Medina. The rest of us to the hotel. Another big convention here, their own “private events.” Casablancas for us by the pool.

Tonight is our Farewell Dinner. I’ve been preparing my ex-professor’s evaluation of Safi as a guide to present at dinner. But I (wisely) decide to do it when we meet him and a few tour members beforehand. I give him thumbs-up on 3 criteria: counting (we didn’t lose any tour members), knowledge (tho maybe some bullshit, always entertaining), earning our respect & friendship (no doubt!). A passing grade. A hug in return.

Dinner in a nice area in the hotel. Safi sings & strums a guitar a bit. A Moroccan salad (something Marjorie learned at her cooking class), fish or chicken entrees. A classical guitarist during dinner. We enjoy having Safi at our table. An early Happy Birthday song for Marjorie. A stroll back to our rooms.

 

9/16, Wednesday:- “Heading Home”

            A sunny AM. Members of our tour group have different bus departures depending on flights. We can be leisurely until 10:00. Interesting chickens wandering near breakfast: 2 loud roosters, a fat black one with what seem “Hobbit” feet. Marjorie shows me a pretty hallway I hadn’t seen (don’t miss a photo op!). 

Easy drive to the airport & check-in. Into a large waiting room, no lounge or refreshments for a somewhat length wait. But then everything goes ahead of schedule, fortunate since we have only about an hour between flights in Casablanca. A prop plane like before, departure 20 minutes early. Served some juice & little pastries. Windows a bit dirty, but views from arid to green as we approach Casablanca. Arrival 45 minutes early. 

A sign that every airport seems to have: “Another your airport improvement to provide you with a better experience.” Boarding seems a mob scene, we don’t hear any announcements. But I’m spotted at the end of a long line with my cane, whisked into a wheelchair to pass everyone (“excuse me, sorry, pardon me”). And a quick glass of champagne also helps my experience. Can’t get music to play, but I enjoy movie Elvis with Tom Hanks as Col. Tom Parker. NYC skyline view coming in, landing an hour early. 72° here.

            Shuttle to Albany Airport leaves JFK too early for us. After exploring various options, we arranged a one-way car rental, doesn’t cost as much as expected. AirTrain to Hertz. Quickly checked in and on the road in a Toyota Tacoma. Some traffic getting away from JFK, but OK after that. Another very clear skyline view from the Triboro Br. Marjorie & I share driving. Home about midnight.

 

            A wonderful trip! Different from anything else we’ve done. A good mix of touring & leisure. Interesting contrasts between the 2 cities, different climates, size, and pace. Beautiful gardens & squares, colorful markets, tasty food. We were able to manage some very hot days, weather otherwise very agreeable. Traveling with Diane always enjoyable; we’ve already arranged a New England cruise for October 2027. And we enjoyed our small group with congenial companions. Safi a 5-star guide. My back & legs held up well. Can’t imagine how things could have gone any better