Columbia & Snake Rivers plus Missoula MT

 

Columbia & Snake Rivers Cruise

Plus Missoula MT

June 2025

We do enjoy river cruises, many with Viking on European rivers. We also love the Pacific NW, multiple trips including Oregon, Washington, and up to Victoria & Vancouver BC. American Cruise Lines combines these with a Columbia & Snake Rivers Cruise. And we’ll add a short trip after the cruise to visit niece Annie, hubbie Garrick, and daughters Lillian & Cora in Missoula MT; haven’t seen them in way too long. Agent Dora (the Explorer?) helps me reserve (with a good discount) for June 2025. Marjorie’s cousin Jim & wife Susan will join us.

            We’ll sail on American Pride, a paddle-wheeler (Marjorie insisted) built 2012 that holds 150 passengers on 4 decks plus sun deck. We have a 2^nd deck stateroom with twin beds & balcony. Susan & Jim find a stateroom across from us. We discuss excursion options during a March visit with them in Florida. Ship amenities seem quite comparable to Viking river ships. Several lounges offer quiet spaces and/or scenic views (plus 24-hour snacks!) & restaurant. Evening cocktail hour, complimentary beer & wine with lunch & dinner. Daily activities & evening entertainment.

           

Things are busy leading up to the trip. We have to coordinate our schedules when son Matt borrows a car to move percussion stuff to Skidmore for the Mostly Modern Festival, where he’s again in residence (and we enjoy a performance). Then we offer lodging to Matt’s Korean friend and former student Han Sol (who calls him “Doc”) and fiancé Euna for a composition workshop with the Albany Symphony. We continue our chiropractic “couples therapy,” Marjorie participates in volunteer events, I do my Red Cross blood delivery driving. I also have a return Mendelssohn Club gig singing to kick off Belmont Festival races at Saratoga track. We need a vacation from retirement. Some hot/humid weather & heavy rain here; looks like we may hit temps up to 100° the 1^st couple of days on the cruise but no sign of rain along our route.

Sunday, June 8^th: “Admirals to Embassy”

Marjorie has done an excellent packing job, not her usual all-nighter. Our usual early flight (7am) out of Albany. Han Sol kindly drives us to the airport, maneuvering thru the surreal horrorscape created by never-ending terminal construction. It’s busy but not crowded. Easy check-in & thru security. On-time departure, a pretty hazy sunrise, very smooth landing in sunny Chicago. A very nice fellow bends some rules to let us into the American Airlines Lounge for our 3½-hour layover. 

A bit early to sunny Portland about 2:15pm, a spectacular close-up view of Mt. Hood coming in (but "wrong side" for photo). A very pretty airport. To baggage claim, met by ACL guy (who recognizes our Viking River Cruises luggage tags) and some other cruisers. One couple admires our single checked bag; they have 3 large suitcases!

A shuttle to Embassy Suites by Hilton Portland Airport for an overnight stay. TV screen in our suite says “Welcome Russell” (sorry, Marjorie). Portland’s a nice city we’ve visited before, just passing thru this time. A relaxed way to start, don’t have to rush out for sightseeing. Dinner with Susan & Jim, a reception to get details about luggage pickup, an excursion & embarkation tomorrow.

 Monday, June 9^th: “Excursion and Embarkation”

           
           

A beautiful sunny AM. Breakfast in the pretty atrium, complete with waterfalls. Onto the bus with guide for the day Craig, driver Cody. Before going to the ship we have an included excursion to Mulnomah Falls, Oregon’s most visited natural attraction. The 2^nd- highest year-round waterfall (620’) in the US, and one of the best places in the Gorge to view basalt rock formations exposed by Ice Age Floods. The drive to the Falls passes beautiful pine trees, views of Mount St. Helen & Mount Hood. Craig narrates with info on geography & geology that shaped the Columbia Gorge, from lava flows to “Missoula floods” – flooding from burst glacial ice dams that shaped much of the Pacific NW landscape. 

Our 1^st views of basalt cliffs. Craig refers to our excursion as “land snorkeling.” Time to walk around the Falls area. It’s the 100^th anniversary of Multnomah Lodge. Trails lead to various levels of the Falls (no, we didn’t hike to the top!). Pretty mosses, ferns, wildflowers. A fine start to the trip!

           

Back on the bus, more views of beautiful Mt. Hood. Across the river into Washington. Narration about DB Cooper (hijacker who parachuted and disappeared) & Bigfoot. To Camas & Wyshouge, logging towns & ports, to board our ship. Lunch, an Egress Drill (try on life jackets, go to muster locations), meet the ship’s officers. 

Time to explore the ship. Lounges on each deck, for fitness, games, programs, or just enjoying the views; and cookies! We learn features of the Explorer ap for our phones, with details of My Day, Meal Selections, Excursions, etc. 

Our stateroom is surprisingly large (bigger than Viking), lots of storage space; and a “great shower,” Marjorie says. 

Time to start cruising. We drove some along the Columbia River in 2013. Sailing offers a different perspective, beautiful mountain views along the way. The 1,240-mile river, largest flowing into the Pacific from North America, is one of the world’s greatest sources of hydroelectric power, representing 1/3^rd of the potential hydropower of the US. We start off heading downstream past an industrial stretch and shipyards, big ships & little boats, local hydropower, paddleboarders. 

We arrive at Kalama OR 6:30pm. A cocktail party, appetizers, soft piano accompaniment before dinner. We sit with Jim & Susan plus Georgia (a travel agent who shares tips) & Donna, who become our ship “besties,” trading travel stories. Meal options include a sit-down restaurant or grab-and-go buffet. Music after dinner. A pretty evening, an almost full moon rising.

 

Tuesday, June 10^th: “The Mountain is Out!”

           

As usual I’m up at 1^st light about 5am. Cool (52) with low clouds, mostly sunny by mid-AM, headed to 80. In the news: Trump cracks down on LA protesters of immigrant deportations, bypassing Mayor & Governor to call up National Guard & Marines. We’re docked at Kalama, population only 3,000 but the 2^nd busiest port on the West Coast. The high school was used for the 1^st Twilight movie. Just off the dock is an expansive city park with amphitheater and interesting buildings to explore. Kayaks and people fishing along the shore; someone reels in a salmon!

           

The morning offers “at leisure” options. We have our lanyards scanned to show we’re off the ship, scanned again when we return. Sign by the gangplank: MARSEC1 Security Measures in Effect, reflecting the minimum of 3 tiers of required 24/7 security. First along a walkway lined with pretty flowers, hawks swooping above, to a large rehabbed lodge. 

Corridors lined with colorful posters, from Moody Blues to “Pirate of the Sky” DB Cooper. “Secret rooms” are indicated by blue lights; you push on the wall and it opens into a mostly dark small room with some colored lights, characters, whatever. 

Nearby Kalawa Interpretive Center, designed to replicate a traditional waterfront warehouse of the 1800s, celebrates Kalama's place as a transportation and commercial hub. Exhibits track first inhabitants, the Cowlitz tribe, the Lewis & Clark expedition, and settlers that followed. 

Then to Mountain Timber Market, its name a tribute to a staple in the early 1900s, with local food & crafts. A 2-story atrium showcases a suspended 140’ totem pole created in the early 1960s by Chief Don Lelooska; it’s the tallest 1-piece totem pole in the world. Sadly, Whimsy Chocolate shop not open.

           Back to the ship to catch an informative & terrifying program, “Tick, Tick, Boom,” about volcanos, foreshadowing our PM excursion to Mount St. Helens, 50 miles NE of Portland. Its eruption in 1980 is the deadliest and most destructive in US history: 57 killed; 200 homes, 57 bridges, 15 railway miles & 185 highway miles destroyed. A massive “debris avalanche” was triggered by a 5.1 earthquake. Elevation of the summit reduced from 9677’ to 8363’. Volcanic activity continued until 2008.

           

Onto the motorcoach after lunch. Lots of kids in the park, kickball games and other field trip fun. Past huge piles of logs, then beautiful tall pines up the hills along the road. Borrowing a phrase from an earlier trip, “the mountain is out!” in bright sunshine. Visitor Center film about the devastation & recovery after the eruption. 

I walk the Wetlands Trail. Beautiful vegetation. Continuing on the coach, increasingly spectacular views, narration by guide Josie with her Southern twang. A rest stop with one last incredible viewpoint of the mountain.

           

Back at the ship, lots of families along the beach now. After the usual cocktail gathering, dinner at what is now our usual table with Susan & Jim, Georgia & Donna, and friendly & energetic server “Hu Hu,” a young Chinese woman from Key West. We depart Kalama at 6pm, to arrive at Astoria WA on the coast at midnight. Good country music after dinner

Wednesday, June 11^th: “Establishments of Negotiated Affection”

           Docked at Astoria across from the picturesque waterfront. High above is Astoria Column, a 125’ concrete column with a frieze around the exterior depicting history of the region. Astoria is the oldest permanent American settlement west of the Rockies. A “fishing village-meets-Victoriana;” colorful Victorian homes on the steep hillside up from the river have earned the nickname “Little San Francisco.” A bit overcast and 51, only to the 60s today; should have brought a sweater. We can’t get much on our TV, just as well given the bad news in the world; today a prisoner swap by Russia & Ukraine followed by Russian drone attacks.

            Across from the ship is one of 2 morning included options: the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Lots of boats & stuff: fishing, WWII, Native Americans, collections of figureheads, gear & wardrobes, storms & shipwrecks, Coast Guard training vessels. The Columbia River is the 2^nd-second largest river, by volume, in the US.  Its mouth is regarded as one of the most treacherous river bars in the world.

Becoming brighter, some sun breaks thru as we use our lanyards for a 2^nd included option: Astoria Local Loop, driving around on a coach with several stops. 1^st stop: Flavel and Carriage House. The 1886 Queen Anne home of Captain George Flavel, a noted river pilot, features original woodwork & period furnishings. Park-like grounds with beautiful trees & Victorian garden.

I opt to walk the 10 blocks back to the ship. Pretty flowers & store windows. I learn the town is excited over the 40^th anniversary of “The Goonies,” a movie about children in Astoria who discover an old treasure map. As one shopkeeper puts it, “the whole town went out for it.” Past colorful food trucks, including the “Slug” for coffee & soup.  A lovely Garden of Surging Waves, celebrating local Chinese heritage.

In the PM I take an included motorcoach ride with guide Linda & driver Glenn to Cape Disappointment State Park. Narration about local brothels (aka “establishments of negotiated affection”), bars, and shanghaied workers. Linda says Astoria is a “drinking town with a fishing problem.” Over the 4.1-mile “bridge to nowhere” from Washington to Oregon.

Cape Disappointment was named by English Captain John Meares, who could not locate the river's entrance in 1788. The 1,882-acre park includes 2 miles of saltwater shoreline, deep woods, and a freshwater lake. Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in the Pacific Northwest constructed in 1856, warned mariners of the river bar where the Columbia meets the Pacific, “the graveyard of the Pacific.” Perched on a clifftop, the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center traces the story of the Expedition, which reached the Pacific Ocean here in 1805 after an 18-month, 3,700- mile journey from St. Louis. A short film and a series of mural-sized “timeline” panels guide you through the westward journey using sketches, paintings, photographs, and words of members themselves. 

My journaling follows the tradition of Meriwether Lewis, tho he used powdered ink & quill pen. Other displays focus on local maritime and military history. Outside are beautiful views of the headlands, lighthouse, and ocean. We spot 2 eagles.

While I’m at the Cape Marjorie & Susan explore around town. A highlight: Bach ‘n Rock: A Serious Music Store. Cool & quirky, some mixed Yelp reviews: “a museum to the past,” “an infinite amount of titles,” “imagine installing a pawnshop inside the living room of a hoarder house.” Marjorie describes the owner as a “curmudgeon.”

Back to the ship. Marjorie has received photos from Han Sol showing they did their departure “tasks;” best guests ever! We depart Astoria at 5:30pm, heading upriver. We learn our stop at The Dalles has been replaced by Stevenson due to the Rowena wildfire (apparently caused by a spark from a train) covering 500 acres that has forced 3000 evacuations and closed an interstate! Other news: Isreal has launched a “preemptive strike” against Iran’s nuclear facilities. Iran later retaliates. This continues during our trip.

 Thursday, June 12^th: “Dancing On the Water”

            A beautiful morning, lots of early photo ops: “strawberry” full moon setting, sun rising, lovely cruising views every way you look! 

Cool 1^st thing, up to low 70s & very windy today. By a popular fishing area. Thru our 1^st lock at Bonneville Dam. Docking at Stevenson Landing. A “community of friendly people and small businesses,” Stevenson is a logging town named for a settler in the late 1800s, population 1500. A stop on the Portland & Seattle railway. “Notable residents” include actor/model Fabio! Lots of windsurfers in the wind & choppy white-capped river.

           

A Local Loop takes us by hydropower & fishing views (we can see the fish in the water), Bridge of the Gods, Beacon Rock 848’ volcanic monolith. 

To Columbia Gorge Museum, Interior designed like a gorge, with hanging airplane and huge “fish wheel.” Exhibits on fishing & fur trade, indigenous people. An incredible collection of rosaries. A beautiful & interesting museum for such an isolated location. 

            

A quick stroll thru town, pretty hotel and County Courthouse. More views of windsurfers “dancing” across the water, doing flips in the air, incredible control.

A different server tonight, lots of joking back & forth. We’re one of the last tables to leave, and ask if there’s anything we can do: “I need you to get up and get out,” he says jokingly. 60s music in the Lounge, a pretty evening sky. No sign of Fabio, but otherwise another pretty much perfect day!

Friday, June 13^th: “Along the Oregon Trail”

We depart at 6am for a quiet day cruising the Columbia River. Another beautiful morning, mix of sun & clouds. Up to mid-70s, mostly sunny. High hills & trees on either side, long trains passing by. An osprey hunting for breakfast. 

Clear views of Mt. Hood. Quite idyllic! And told we’re “out of danger” from the wildfire. We’re moving away from heavily forested areas, terrain flattens out. The Columbia Gorge, up to 4000’ deep and more than 80 miles long, goes from lush old-growth forest, more than 40 waterfalls, 75”/year of rain in the West to rocky bluffs, desert hills, less than 15” of rain in the East.

Thru a lock at The Dalles Dam. A very interesting presentation on the Oregon Trail in the 1840s (after Lewis & Clark.in the early 1800s). Over 1000 people, 20 wagons, 2170 miles starting from Independence MO. Some humorous supposed Facebook posts from the time. The same guy (who also plays piano at cocktail receptions) later does a program on “Frontier Remedies.” Anything to help my back? A “John Day Lock Party” with people dancing to “YMCA.” An ice cream social next to another dam. Wind farms atop high hills. Lots of long trains. Vineyards tucked among the hills. A pretty evening.

Saturday, June 14^th: “Blue Grass and Story Circles”

            We arrive at Richland WA shortly after midnight at the confluence of Yakima & Columbia Rivers. Docked near waterfront walking trails. Sunny, less wind & warmer (80s) today. A busy news day: Shootings targeted politicians in Minnesota. A DC military parade celebrating the 20^th anniversary of the US Army (and, not coincidentally, Trump’s birthday). “No Kings Day” protests around the country, some 2000 sites, even crowds lining Wolf Rd in Albany. A Facebook comment on Trump’s parade: “Seen more people at middle school graduation. And kids had higher reading levels.”

But I digress; back to our travel adventures. We head off by motorcoach for included morning Richland City Exploration with guide Marie & driver Cody. Marie, a retired environmental scientist, waxes rhapsodic about life in Eastern Washington: clear skies, precipitation the same as Phoenix, fewer people. Much to talk about in the tri-cities of Richland, Pasca, and Kennewick. Area was shaped by huge Ice Age floods. Lots of sagebrush & potatoes. Columbia basin Irrigation Project. Rattlesnake Mtn the tallest in the US with no trees. Kennewick Man, 8500-year-old skeletal remains of a Native American found along the Columbia River, one of the most complete found this old in the Americas. We pass an osprey nest on a power tower, statue of Sacajawea, a Veterans Memorial, and a hydroplane park.

Marie also gives an intro to the Hanford Site, one of 3 major sites for the WWII Manhattan Project. Population in the area was only 250 in 1943. A set of 25 “Alphabet Homes” layouts was designed to meet the pressing need for housing, residents assigned units from a waiting list. By 1950 Richland's population had exceeded 20,000!

This leads to our stop at Hanford REACH National Monument, named for the longest free-flowing, non-tidal section of the Columbia River. Exhibits from the Ice Age to the Atomic Age, including the geological impact of Ice Age floods and basalt lava flows, and the Manhattan Project. Hanford Nuclear Reservation, plutonium production facilities along the Columbia River, had 9 nuclear reactors that used river water in plutonium production. The end of plutonium production enabled creation of this as the US Fish & Wildlife Service’s 1^st national monument. 

Going back to the ship we pass beautiful views of the Columbia River, tho Lewis & Clark referred to this as “barren and useless” land. Marie shares some of “Wreck of the Lady Washington,” a song about a sailing ship’s collision with a bridge in 1991.

In the afternoon we split up. Marjorie & Susan do the Vintner’s Village and Chukar Cherries excursion. Motorcoach to Chukar Cherries Flagship Store, where for 3 decades family-owned Chukar Cherries has transformed local cherries into a variety of award-winning chocolate cherries. 

Then to the Tasting Room at Airfield Vineyards, with estate-grown wines, staff providing insights into the vineyard’s history and winemaking process. On to the Tasting Room at Coyote Canyon, in the Horse Heaven Hills, producing award-winning premium wines since 1904. Then the Tasting Room at Martinez & Martinez, a small vineyard since 1981 in the Phinny Hill area. They return with some samples of candy to share.

I take the excursion to Sacajawea Historical State Park. Actually, we’re docked by the park due to the itinerary change, so guide Wendy only has to lead a short walk. This is where Lewis and Clark camped in 1805 amid a community of Native Americans; and people have gathered here “since time immemorial.”. The park is named for a Shoshone woman who was an interpreter & guide, and married a French-Canadian interpreter in the expedition. The Sacajawea Interpretive Center tells her and the expedition’s story, and the history of the Columbia Plateau. Ranger Nan tells the story of Ainsworth, a town taken over by bordellos, bars, and drug dens. 

Outside is an interesting installation of 7 Story Circles by Maya Lin. Inscriptions on the circles embedded in the ground highlight various themes: tribes, languages, creation stories, fish, plants, etc.

As we depart at 6pm we can hear the beginning of a bluegrass festival in the park. 

Interesting topography as we cruise along the Snake. Cliffs & hills with farmland mixed in, lots of bird netting to protect crops. Many vineyards; more than 20 wineries within a 50-mile radius. More dams & locks, one with a 100’ rise. A beautiful evening, warmer & little wind, nice on the top deck.

 

Sunday, June 15^th: “Winemaking 101”

Cruising the Snake River, I’m up for another pretty sunrise. Lovely countryside, one area with small boats, another with several small tents on the shore at the base of a steep hill, then a large area of RVs. A pretty lineup of white pelicans. 

The ship “parallel parks” at the Clarkston dock at 10am, across from a driving range (which I eschew). Reaching onto a railing I’m stung by a bee, right below my shutter finger! It really hurts! I pull out the stinger, get sympathy and an alcohol rub from Guest Services Coordinator Veronica. We’re at the confluence of the Snake & Clearwater Rivers in a valley surrounded by steep hills. Across from Idaho and about 50 miles from Walla Walla WA (just had to include that!). Named for William Clark of the Lewis & Clark Expedition, Clarkston’s roots go back to the Nez Perce, the Native American tribe that originally inhabited the valley. Nearby is Hells Canyon, a National Recreation Area; the deepest canyon in North America, 10 miles wide and 7993’ deep.

I take a walk along the rivers. Signs with safety tips: “Life Jackets Worn. Nobody Mourns,” “Life Jackets. Man’s Vest Friend.” Bird photo ops: ospreys at a nest, a family of ducks. Bushes jammed with blueberries. Brief sprinkles.

A sunny warm PM, headed to 90. There are some adventuresome (and expensive) Flightseeing & Jet Boat excursions. We opt for the more relaxed Rivaura Winery Tasting option. Over the pretty Clearwater R into Idaho and onto the Nez Perce Reservation, passing (of course) casinos. The family-owned winery, located on both banks of the Clearwater River, was named by Sip Magazine a “Winery to Watch” in 2022. Perched on vineyard-covered hillsides with beautiful views of the Clearwater River Valley, a fabulous setting! Named for a combination of “river” & “aura,” the winery only opened in 2020, and a very young man helped by his brothers gives a very interesting presentation on regional & family history, and the geology & chemistry of winemaking, as we taste several wines. I offer my professorial opinion that he’s passed his “oral defense.”

Back to the ship, passing industrial areas including a paper mill.  A nice Father’s Day phone call from Matt. Decorated cheesecake and early birthday serenade from our dinner table. A meeting on disembarkation details for tomorrow. Introductions of staff teams, some staff Q & A. The evening concludes with song & dance by a Nez Perce pair.

Monday, June 16^th: “Birthday Festival”

Happy Birthday to me! Up early on another beautiful sunny AM, river like glass. “There’s the birthday boy!” greeting from Veronica. Sadly, it’s time to depart from the ship, crew busily getting ready for the next set of passengers. We give an early goodbye to Susan & Jim. We’re scheduled to leave at 8:30 for nearby Lewiston Nez Perce County Airport, where we’ve rented a car for about a 4-hour drive 220 miles mostly thru Idaho to Missoula, Montana. A very small airport, only 2 flights a day. We pick up our Toyota Corolla. Very low to the ground, hard getting in & out for us seniors, but it serves its purpose. The agent alerts us to a wildfire near our route.

The drive takes us mostly along the Clearwater River. Pretty rocky river views, forested hills & mountains, casinos, “Game Crossing” signs. Viewpoints give opportunities to stretch (and take photos, of course!). It’s a long, winding road; “No gas for 90 miles.” A stop at Lochso Lodge for a drink & snack, wildlife adorning the walls. A sign on the highway: “Fire Activity. Do Not Stop.” The “Post” fire is near Lo Lo Pass on our route, but (thankfully!) is under control. A bit of rain and, as we switch drivers to Marjorie, thunder! But it doesn’t last. And it is a pretty drive, interesting rock formations, some snow atop a mountain. We eventually make our way to Missoula and the Days Inn/Wyndham Downtown.

Missoula, along the Clark Fork River at the convergence of 5 mountain ranges, is from Salish for, roughly "place of frozen water." It’s another place visited by Lewis & Clark. Arrival of the Northern Pacific Railway in 1883 brought rapid growth and maturation of the lumber industry. Missoula was chosen as the site for the state's 1^st university (U of Montana) in 1893. Lumber and the university remained the basis of the local economy for the next 100 years, but by the 1990s Missoula's lumber industry had gradually disappeared. The Missoula area looks to have many visitor attractions. Aside from many outdoor activities there are museums, galleries, breweries, a casino, butterfly house, even ghost towns. Not enough time for everything, and we’re most interested in family visiting.

As we settle in a birthday phone call from grandson William. Then off to see Annie, Garrick, Lillian, and Cora. Also greeted enthusiastically by their dog Luna; who always greets us with a toy in her mouth – but won’t share it! Marjorie has brought little gifts for the girls. Garrick is playing soccer, but joins us for dinner. An after-dinner game of “Code Names” with Annie & Cora. A little rain before going out to continue my “Birthday Festival”: treats at Big Dipper, inventive tasty ice cream (e.g., cardamon, Mexican chocolate).

 

Tuesday, June 17^th: Butterflies and Pizza”

            Storms in the Midwest, the Northeast is soaked, flooding in West Virginia, but mostly sunny here, headed to 80. I do early exploration downtown. Pretty Courthouse; lots of “public art” murals on buildings; 

Caras Park with elaborately decorated playground, carousel (but not open), rapids in the river. Back to the hotel for breakfast.

 

           To the Butterfly House next to the Fairgrounds. Not open yet, but we can enjoy the nearby Rocky Mtn Gardens. Beautiful flowers around a gazebo, expansive views including a snow-capped mountain. People doing Tai Chi. Into the House, lots of pretty butterflies flitting around. It’s fun to watch excited children with grandparents. Cute little quails skittering around. A “butterfly release” of new recruits. They offer “Bug Camps” here, but we’re too old.

           

To Annie & Garrick’s, Annie takes us to a tour of the pretty University of Montana campus nearby. The GoGrizzly Store has a beautifully arranged interior, lots of GrizzNation stuff. We stump Annie once or twice with our questions, but she’s an excellent guide. 

Out for a snack of Gourmet Popcorn at KornUcopia. We pass on huckleberry flavor (huckleberries seem a thing around here), but our other choices are yummy. 

Along the river to Caras Park. More public art: a brightly painted underpass. The rapids are now being run by surfers. To conclude the outing, Annie takes us up into the hills to see wildflowers, but the ones she’d seen are mostly done now. Beautiful panoramas nonetheless.

            After a stop back at the hotel my Birthday Festival continues when we take everyone for pizza at Biga Pizza. Yummy selections. The day concludes with a walk around downtown.

Wednesday, June 18^th: “Bison, Elk, and Bear, Oh My!”

            Another perfect morning! There are lots of bikers at the hotel. We chat with a granny biker with cute dog Pepper who has ridden with her (wearing goggles) thru 14 states!

We drive about an hour north (speed limit up to 75 mph) thru pretty forested areas & mountains to the Bison Range. a historical conservation area where the largest herd of plains bison in the world roamed by the late 1800s; it’s now home to roughly 350 bison. After a complex series of legislative & judicial decisions over ownership & control, the Range is now fully operated by staff of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. It protects one of the most endangered ecosystems in North America, the intermountain bunchgrass prairie.

In the Visitor Center we encounter an older CSKT man who’d been in the Yellowstone prequel 1923, which had done filming around here. It's a drive-thru park. We opt for the longer 2-hour route: 19-mile Red Sleep Mountain Drive, named for a Nez Perce woman, that gains 2000’ with many switchbacks & steep grades. 

First view: a group of deer with young ‘uns prancing around. Then a couple of bison not far away in a field. Then, well, plenty more: bison, a large bear, coyote (we think), elk, pretty black-and-white birds. It’s good to have a combo of driver (me) and spotter (Marjorie). The drive takes us very high up to incredible vistas. And ends with a white-knuckle steep winding road back down.

The drive back to the city takes us past less exotic cows, goats, & horses, and casinos. Following a suggestion for a product Marjorie wants for nail health, we stop into a tack shop situated at a gas station. Quite a place, full of all sorts of horsey things – but not what we’re looking for.

            After a lunch of leftover pizza & salad, Annie takes us to the Missoula Library. [This seems as good a place as any to explain what Annie & Garrick are doing in Missoula. Annie is Deputy Director of the Missoula Redevelopment Agency. She’s pointed out several of her projects while driving around the city. Garrick works on environmental issues for the state of Oregan, remotely from either their basement or the Library.]

           The Missoula Library was deemed “World’s Best Public Library” (among 22 newly redesigned ones) in 2022 by the International Federation of Library Associations. It certainly is impressive. The interior reflects Missoula’s geological features, with soaring & open spaces. It boasts “awesome community events hosted regularly, a great collection of books and media assets, stunning views and ultra comfortable chairs.” We’re intrigued by an elaborate miniature “gnome house,” and share what Annie deems “the best chocolate chip cookie in the city.”

Across from the Library is a children’s theater with a colorful horse sculpture that seems a good lead-in to the next outing. We join Annie to pick up Cora and a friend where they ride horses.  A large complex of barns, stalls, and riding areas created by a woman who greets us. We’re too late to see Cora ride, but we see a video of her riding one-handed! Quite a horsewoman.

Back to the hotel to pack. Then Marjorie & Garrick work together to prepare enchiladas for dinner. A short walk to a park for a band concert. A beautiful evening. Lots of people spread out on the lawn, well-behaved dogs. A perfect conclusion to the trip. We’re even greeted by a deer back in the neighborhood.

 

Thursday, June 19^th: “Farewell Breakfast”           

          We’re sad to leave, but ready to return home after a long trip. Instead of our usual dawn flights, we have time for a last pretty morning with the Missoula family before heading to the airport. We join Annie & Garrick at Black Coffee Roasting Company in a Quonset hut near our hotel. Annie shares photos of fawns born last night in the neighborhood. 

A short drive to the airport, return the car (we drove about 400 miles). A small airport, easy check-in & thru security. Enough time to go thru nearly 400 emails that had been shunted (not always correctly) into Junk. Nasty storms in the Midwest yesterday, thought our flights back might have problems. But a nice morning, views of mountains & river after takeoff, Chicago skyline coming in on time. 

A 2-hour layover, no Lounge this time but able to finish my thriller (First to Die, by James Patterson). A delay departing, but almost on time to Albany at 11pm – it’s raining! Alex, son of musician friends Robert & Kim, has stopped for an overnight at our house on his way to Chautauqua, perfect timing to pick us up at the airport.

 

It was a Mary Poppins trip – practically perfect in every way. Beautiful scenery. Interesting excursions. Plenty of wildlife encounters. And our travel experiences are always enriched when shared, as on the ship and in Missoula, with family and new friends. The ship more than met expectations. Plenty roomy stateroom, nice lounges for viewing the river, excellent meals (it’ll be diets at home). The weather was excellent; just a few sprinkles. We were able to dodge a couple of wildfires. A wonderful trip!