Decompressing in Vermont

Holiday Decompression in Vermont

January 2019 

          For Christmas I gave Marjorie (aka Santa’s Helper) a “Holiday Decompression Kit”: movie date (to an actual big screen theater!), jigsaw puzzle of Rockefeller Plaza at Christmas, and a 2-night Living Social voucher for Castle Hill Resort and Spa in Ludlow VT. We’ve used such vouchers happily in the past, most recently a similar getaway last year to Arlington VT. But haven’t found Bob Newhart’s inn (you know, the one with “Larry, my brother Darryl, and my other brother Darryl”). Castle Hill, listed in Historic Hotels of America, is centrally located in the Green Mountains; plenty of things to do nearby  . . . or just relax  ̶  looks to be lovely accommodations & setting. The English Cotswold style inn, constructed with gneiss stone quarried on property and hand-carved California redwood, opened in 1905. Built by Allen Miller Fletcher (Vermont’s Governor 1912-1915) near his summer home, it was the first home in Vermont to be fully wired for electricity and equipped with an elevator. European craftsmen worked for five years to create “old world elegance and charm.” A companion carriage house, containing the spa, has traditional New England style shingle construction. Both buildings are listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The “Aveda Spa” offers pricey options ranging from your basic hair & nails to “Ultimate Stress Fix” and “Pure Indulgence.” Ludlow is described as “a classic Vermont town with quaint shops, restaurants, attractions” that “just beg for visitors to experience them.”

 

          We’re hoping for snow of the picturesque sort, but we know from past experiences that it’s hard to predict. An October 1987 getaway to Vermont brought a freakish snowstorm that left us stranded for several hours on the highway, followed by most of the night in a Bennington shelter until roads cleared to Albany. The past week has brought some typical crazy weather: last weekend as much as 2 feet of snow to the Northeast, followed by wind chills of 20 below zero!, then midweek rain and temps near 50. The forecast looks OK for our getaway until some fairly heavy snow late PM and overnight next Tues-Wed, too late (fingers crossed) to affect us. We’ll see what Mother Nature brings.

Sunday 1/27 begins with 8:00 Mass at St. Pius; I avoid choir director Brian since I’m skipping choir at 10. It’s just as well we didn’t start Friday. There was a “cascade of chaos” along 6 miles of the Hudson when several tugboats, barges, and a cruise ship were torn loose by floating ice, struck a couple of main bridges that were then closed for a while, snarling traffic. No worries today ˗ over the river, thru Troy toward Bennington. A pretty drive, mix of sun & clouds to begin. Past “Big Moose Deli and Country Store” with its many life-size critters outside. After a light breakfast at home we look for a brunch stop and swing into bustling “Bob’s Diner” outside Manchester; it’s “screamin’ Vermont” Marjorie says  ̶  lots of young skiers & snowboarders. We luckily get a table right away, many people waiting when we leave. The best breakfast!: eggs, home fries, hash, bacon. The waitress compliments Marjorie’s “Katherine Hepburn” hair. Past the entrance sign for Green Mountain National Forest. Now that the government shutdown has ended the bears & moose should be back on duty. Light snow begins as we near Ludlow, and continues thru the PM; just enough for nice ambience. Ludlow itself is more than expected, pretty buildings, a park with gazebo, next to Okemo ski area, along the Black River. A sign has a skier’s mantra: “Ski Eat Sleep Repeat.”

          Our room isn’t ready yet, but we’re offered coffee & munchies in the library, a little exploring of the house & grounds. 

Then off for a scenic drive: pretty countryside and snow along a stream. 

 We return to be led up to our 3^rd-floor room thru pretty hallways with beautiful woodwork, classic old intercoms (nonworking). 

A very spacious corner room, king bed, walk-in closet and shelves, retro bathroom with footed tub. Marjorie approves. She decompresses in the room while I look for photo ops. 

 Into town, 

 then a turn onto Buttermilk Falls Rd (undeterred by the “Detour Local Traffic Only” sign). Lovely snow and stream views. Another driver pulls up to ask if this is the way to Buttermilk Falls. I say I’m guessing it is, we both continue to a barricade at the end where another guy has just come off a trail to the falls. My companion follows the footprints into the forest; not dressed for adventure, I wish him well and head back to the inn.

          We relax watching parts of 2 PBS pledge drives featuring Peter, Paul, and Mary and Neil Diamond. Downstairs for an excellent dinner seated next to the fireplace. Executive Chef Alphonsus Harris uses local produce and fine meats to create seasonal prix fixe 3-course dinners in a candle-lit wood-paneled dining room with the “subtle chime” of a grandfather clock. We enjoy rack of lamb and salmon with lobster risotto as entrees. 

After dinner I capture pretty outside lighting on the building. The day concludes with part of “Rent” live on TV. Central heating makes the room quite warm, some windows opened to compensate.

          Monday brings very early AM plowing, tho there’s hardly any snow! Oh well, it’s a pretty morning and lots of sun all day. Down to the library to read for a while, very hospitable staff brings coffee. Early news on TV: apparently some local team is in a big football game next weekend (hints: Patriots, Super Bowl). 

 I walk around outside for views of the river and Okemo. 

We head into town for another excellent breakfast in an old mill at “Café at deLight” (by the traffic light, get it?). Classic diner mugs with local ads and a “We Love You [names] Grammy & Peeps” message. Raisin bread French toast, apple cinnamon pancakes. Yum! Then we head north for a day in Vermont.

  

        A pretty drive, cold (teens) but not bitter, bright snow, babbling brooks, ponds, a few ice fishing sheds, cozy houses, covered bridges. 

A stop at Calvin Coolidge Homestead, buildings closed for the season but pretty grounds. Thru Woodstock, pretty buildings and village green. Thought for the day on a sign: “A Mistake Repeated More Than Once is a Decision.” 

A view of classic long red Taftsville covered bridge. To Quechee Gorge Visitor Center, but walkways to view the gorge not cleared of snow & ice. 

Undaunted, we head to nearby Vermont Institute of Natural Science Nature Center. Beautiful rehabbed & rescued raptors: owls, hawks, eagles, vultures, Many are up by heat lamps in their enclosures.   

We continue on to Simon Pearce Flagship Store in Quechee. Beautiful glassware; and a “second” water glass is only $65! We’re here to look, not buy. 

Marjorie could spend the day watching and chatting with the glassblowers, memories of her glassblowing classes in Corning. 

 The building overlooks Quechee covered bridge and quite impressive waterfall over a dam, buildings on the bank encrusted with ice. We share a lunch of soup, cheeses, and wine perched above the waterfall.

          Next a winding drive up hills and thru forest, signs along the way offer encouragement (“Keep Going”, “Almost There”), to Sugarbush Farm. Tastings of cheese & maple products, whimsical magnets & decals (e.g., “Vermont Cow Tipping Team”). We buy some award-winning cheese (from a judging in Green Bay WI, so must be legit) for daughter-in-law Anthea. 

            Back to the VINS raptors for a very interesting educational program by 2 women with 2 hawks and a tiny screech owl. Demos include hawk flights just over our heads, feeling the wind from their wings!

And the little owl is so adorable . . . and trying to look quite “fierce.” Signs say “Adopt a Raptor,” but they say that doesn’t mean we can take the little guy home. 

On to Long Tail Pub & Brewery. Up to a walkway overlooking the brewing process, but nothing going on. We buy a selection for son Matt. 

A stop into Shaw’s supermarket to get light breakfast for tomorrow. A good pub dinner at “Killarney.” Lots of patches, insignia, signs, jerseys plus a countdown to St. Patrick’s Day: 47 days, 3 hours, 20 minutes, 22 seconds . . . So concludes a perfect Vermont day, couldn’t have drawn it up any better! Gorgeous weather, lovely wintry (but no too wintry!) views, interesting sites, good food & friendly folk.

          Tuesday 1/29 brings a cloudy AM, forecast of snow coming PM & overnight. Nuthin’ much planned for today. We are sending good thoughts to Michigan for my brother Doug’s back surgery today. After our light in-room breakfast we head back south past Weston & Londonderry toward Manchester. Original plans involved lunch at friend Marlene recommended Mediterranean restaurant, but the wind is picking up, snow is blowing, not much interested in shopping . . . so back home we go. It was a lovely getaway. But still no Bob Newhart.