Touring Along the Adriatric Sea

Jewels of the Adriatic

October 2018

Croatia has been on our travel to-do list since an earlier European trip (Bavaria in 2006) when in the airport on the way home we chatted with other travelers who raved about Croatia. Marjorie’s cousin Jim and wife Susan also raved about their trip to Croatia last Fall, adding further impetus. Gate1, with whom we’ve happily traveled a number of times, has an “11 Day Affordable Croatia & Slovenia” tour that looks just right. One unhappy note: friend Kay, a companion on the Bavaria and some other trips, is unable to join us. But Una (who had traveled with us in Andalucia) and her friend Nancy will be joining us. Well, “joining us” turned out to be a bit uncertain when they booked a night in Venice at the end. Una tried to arrange “Bus Unity” for the 4 of us to be on the same tour bus, but discovered their Venice add-on put them into a different group (and bus). We’ll share some but not all of the hotels; don’t know how much we’ll be touring together. I’d vouched for Gate 1, so I hope things go well and that we’ll have plenty of time together. Una seems to have forgiven me for being picked to join the Doug Ward family on a Viking Ocean cruise “Into the Midnight Sun” this summer; she was the next choice, but “blood” won out. We learned another friend, Beth, will be on a tour to Croatia with a friend that begins the same day as ours, but with a different company. Will we cross paths?

This region has become a popular tourist destination, with spectacular scenery from seacoasts to mountains. It also has a complex and violent history. I’ll attempt a brief (and probably oversimplified) recent summary: After WWII Yugoslavia was an uneasy federation of 6 republics, including 4 we’ll visit (Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Bosnia). Tensions among the various ethnic groups were suppressed by Tito until his death in 1980, when calls for autonomy escalated. Croatia & Slovenia declared independence in 1991 and were attacked by the Serb-dominated Yugoslav army. The Balkan Wars of the 1990s entailed allegations of “ethnic cleansing” and war crimes. NATO bombings (“Operation Deliberate Force”) were followed by a US-brokered peace agreement. Montenegro declared independence in 2006. Croatia and Slovenia are members of NATO and the European Union; Montenegro joined NATO most recently (2017) and is a candidate to join the EU. Bosnia (and Herzegovina) declared independence in 1992, and is also a candidate to join the EU. But the varying status of these countries creates different situations for crossing borders. It also means some juggling among different currencies: Croatian  kuna ($.16), euros ($1.16), Bosnian convertible marks ($.59).

Thursday, 10/4: “Ciao!” 

          A bit to do before heading off. Marjorie and I drive along the Mohawk River (muddy from recent rains) to Hagaman (near Amsterdam) to set up her pieces in an art show; 2 years ago she won a 1^st Prize ribbon here in “Mixed Media.” Some touches of early Fall color. Joined after by Glens Falls artist friend Tom Myott for breakfast at a local café. Back home to finish packing and hit the road to JFK. Looked into flights to & from JFK from Albany, but there are no direct flights! Go figure. So we’re doing our usual Airpark for the car, shuttle to nearby JFK. Some rain on and off but a smooth ride down until very slow over and beyond the Whitestone Bridge. Some sun and a rainbow at the airport; seems like good karma. Marjorie has “TSA PreCheck” from her security clearance at the Albany Airport museum shop, but I do not. No “I’ll stay with my Sweetie” from her; she doesn’t think twice about abandoning me to the long twisting security line! Eventually reunited, we share soup & sandwich. 

Pink lanterns hanging from the ceiling for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. On-time departure at about 9pm. We splurged a bit for comfier Premium Economy seats (“Comfort+” on Delta) and this also got us direct flights to Venice.

         

Friday, 10/5: “Where’s Pero?”

          Marjorie gets some sleep during out 7½ hours in the air, not much for me as usual. We fly over snow-covered Alps, then agricultural and industrial areas until a bit early arrival at about 11am to Venice Marco Polo Aeroporto. Venice proper is visible nearby after landing. Flight attendant announces: “If you are going to the wedding, don’t forget your garment bags.” We meet Gate1 guy Pero outside baggage claim, so all is going well. Then we meet our first 2 fellow travelers: Ruth and John from Oshkosh (B’Gosh) WI, where Marjorie went to college. Small world! Then along come Una and Nancy. We all wait for other arrivals to take the bus transfer to Croatia. But after a while we realize Pero is nowhere to be seen! Have we been abandoned? As I hunt for a phone to call Gate1 he returns, having counted heads on the bus (a key task of any guide) and discovered his error.

         We settle in on the bus for a 4½ drive to Opatija, Croatia. Sunny, mid-70s. Through agricultural areas, lots of traffic and road work, mountains in the distance to the north. A Ristop where the bus windows are covered by beetles (eew!); Pero calls them “stinkmartins.”   

Back on the road: pretty towns with lovely steeples, past the port of Trieste on the Istria peninsula. Briefly into Slovenia (an EU member so no passport checks), then into Croatia where passports are checked but it doesn’t take long. More mountainous, views of Adriatic coast and hills as we come into the pretty town. 

We drop off “Group 2” people (including Una & Nancy, Ruth & John) at their hotel, then continue to our Grand Hotel Adriatic overlooking the waterfront promenade, Casino Adriatic next door (but it’s closed). 

Nice digs: a sizable hotel with space for conventions, like other hotels on the trip; a comfy room with lovely view.

We have a filling buffet welcome dinner and meet our tour manager/guide Jelena (shown here later in the tour).
She leads us in “Gibidi” (Cheers!), then asks the 40 of us in “Group 1” to say a little about ourselves. Too much info to process, but the group includes 3 sisters traveling together, 2 women from Australia, the rest from various places in the U.S., some (like us) who’ve taken multiple Gate1 trips and others who are newbies. Seems like a very congenial group.

Saturday, 10/6: “Rain, Rain, Go Away!” 

          There was an optional excursion offered for today, but Opatija seemed like a good place to just hang out and explore after a long flight. Opatija is a long-standing tourist resort, seafront hotels with gardens and terraces along the Gulf of Kvarner. Sheltered by Mount Učka, its “microclimate is recommended for convalescence and people suffering from stress.” One of “Europe’s most elegant and fashionable seaside destinations” in the early 20^th C, it now caters to an “aging clientele” (are they talking about us?). 

The Lungomare 12-km footpath along the bay is lined with century-old oaks and cypress trees. 

As usual I’m up very early, so out for a stroll. A mostly cloudy AM, tho some nice sunrise colors. Beautiful old hotels, lush vegetation. 

 Marjorie joins me and some others who are skipping the optional tour for the typical European buffet breakfast provided at all of the hotels: breads, cheeses & coldcuts, eggs, pancakes, etc. Light rain brings my umbrella into play, and Marjorie is excited to use her new parka. It does get brighter later on, including some sun, but then more rain. We learn later that people on the optional tour got quite wet, further justifying our choice.

          We have a lovely day. Pretty houses & buildings going up the hill from the waterfront, parks with colorful flowers, stars for famous people lining a sidewalk. 

Seems prettier at every turn. A highlight is the lovely “Maiden with the Seagull” sculpture on a point jutting into the water. Early shopping success: one of the soccer player t-shirts requested by grandson William, a magnet for my collection. 

Into a small ulaz slovodan (admission free) exhibit focused on Gustav Mahler. Nearby is pretty church Sv Jacova Apostola, 

and a park fronting a hotel. Plying the water is colorful tour boat “Nemo,” which we later learn is glass-bottomed. 

A hike up to Krkva Naviestenya B. D. Marije (Annunciation of Our Lady), with unusual red brick interior, as noon bells ring. Into a “Tommy Maximarket,” common during our travels, to check out the local grocery scene. Tasty gelato, then relaxing at our hotel.

          Out to dinner on a rainy evening. Restaurant Spatina overlooking the bay, a helpful & patient waiter with a wry smile. Marjorie ponders an apartment for sale in a nearby villa. A horn-honking wedding procession passes by. A typical local dessert of pancakes with ice cream to top off a very nice day! Well, not quite done. Early to bed . . . but awakened by fireworks over the bay, quite a show we can see from our window . . . back to bed, then ferocious thunder & lightning . . . the climax: feral cats fighting below our window!

Sunday, 10/7: “Into Dalmatia” 

          I usually make note of current events in the news during out travels. But we’re so glad to get away from Trump, the Kavanaugh nomination, etc., that I will mostly forego such references. But we keep up some with events via CNN & BBC on hotel TVs and are able to use Marjorie’s Kindle to keep track of e-mail occasionally and ask questions of “Alexa.” Today is our first driving day, covering quite a bit of ground along the Adriatic coast, then inland, and back to the coast into the Dalmatia region (yes, Dalmatian dogs are from here). So it’s also our first day of the driving regimen: wakeup call (6:45 today), luggage out (7:15), board (8:15). Jelena assigns seats so people rotate around the bus, avoiding conflict over this. “Rest stops” are appropriately spaced along the way. A cool AM, low 60s. Jelena introduces our driver, “Snowy.” Into our assigned seats, fresh water bottles every day, off we go.

           Jelena gives information & orientation as we drive along. She emphasizes the diversity of culture in a population of only 4.2 million, and (as we see along the way) diversity of geography. 

Brightening to partly cloudy, beautiful views along the coast, then over more rugged hills, followed by pretty farms. Photography from a moving bus thru tinted windows presents challenges, but I can delete what doesn’t work and edit with Photoshop back home. And there are so many panoramic views!

A mid-AM rest stop provides great views. 16^th C fortress at Senj, the “Town of Seamen.” A self-serve lunch joined by Una & Nancy at Macola rest stop, something of a “cult” place where everyone stops. M poses with a stuffed Croatian bear (we have a number photos of her bear friends on other trips). 

The Lika central plateau, that “holds Croatia together” Jelena says, has some Fall colors. “Buda” winds keep this side of the mountains drier. Nikola Tesla, a famous electrical engineer and inventor, came from this region. Jelena also cites Croatians as inventors of the pen, torpedoes, parachutes, “cravats,” among other things. [Note: I may have some inaccuracies in my accounts; it’s hard to keep up with her narration!] Another info tidbit: Dalmatians tend to be tall, so basketball is more popular here than soccer. Thru a nearly 6 km tunnel back to the Adriatic coast, where a very hard rain is followed by gorgeous blue sky!

         A stop at the historic old town of Zadar, one of many protected UNESCO World Heritage sites during this journey. To the pedestrian old town surrounded by incredibly blue water! Jelena shows us the “sea organ,” where wave action makes sounds thru holes in the promenade. 

We see the ruins of a Roman forum (Zeleni Trg) and several medieval churches, including Katedrala Sv Stošije (Cathedral of St. Anastasia) and Sv Donat (Church of St. Donatus), but some interiors are closed. 

We gain solace from a stop for gelato, flavors all decorated up in the display cases including my favorite stracciatella, and pretty shops in the main square. 

 

In addition to its medieval cultural history, Zadar was a “hotbed of Croatian nationalism” during the war of independence. As we stroll along, a woman in our group takes my arm, starts chatting, and looks up: “Oops, you’re not my husband,” she says, a bit embarrassed; “Do I know you?” “You do now,” I say. What a friendly group!

          On the road again for a 2-hour drive to Split, another UNESCO protected seaside town, the second largest city in Croatia. Past many stone walls & houses. For a while it’s beautiful sun on one side and dark clouds on the other. We pass police inspecting potential “soccer hooligans” before a big game tonight. Some rain as we near Split, then pretty views coming into town; one area is used in “Game of Thrones,” something we’ll see more of (our son Matt is a big fan). 

To our Hotel Atrium, another very nice room above a casino. 

Gate1 has added a treat tonight to make up for all the rain so far: dinner with musical entertainment at Elpetium (I think) in the Dalmatian village Strobridge. Meat or fish menu choices, an energetic trio performing such Croatian favorites as “Take Me Home, Country Roads” and “La Bamba.” Much frivolity, even dancing. One of our group takes a scary 8-foot fall off the sidewalk going back to the bus, but is able to continue on.

Monday, 10/8: “Get Your Whispers On”

          Dobro jutro (Good morning)! And Happy Croatian Independence Day! I actually sleep until the 7:15 wakeup call! A gorgeous day, sunny & warm, from mid-60s to mid-70s. A pretty dining room for the usual busy buffet breakfast; here and other hotels we’re not the only tour group. 

We have our 1^st local guide walking tour, and 1^st use of audio “whispers.” Out along the very blue water along the riva, local for waterfront promenade. We meet guide Danir: “Welcome to the most beautiful city in the world!” He gives an excellent tour: informative & witty. Tho mostly known as a transit center rather than a destination, there is much to see here. The heart of the city lies within the walls of 3^rd C Diocletian’s Palace, largest and best preserved Roman palace in the world, built for the Emperor Diocletian. 

We begin with the substructure, very interesting construction and architecture. 

Up top, Roman soldiers available for selfies. A cappella group “Klapa” singing in a courtyard; Marjorie buys a CD. Impressive statue of Croatian Bishop Gregory (Grgur Ninsky), whose toes are rubbed to grant wishes. 

Beautiful bougainvillea, laundry hanging from balconies as reminders that people still live here. 

There are numerous “Game of Thrones” sites, as well as gift shops: for reference we’re directed to YouTube, Seasons 4 & 5, “locations.” Shown here (I'm told) is the location for the "Walk of Atonement" (which is actually in Dubrovnik).

More Wow! views in the city and along the promenade: 

colorful boats, pretty buildings along the water and up the hill. 

To the large, colorful open-air market: flowers, veggies, clothing, souvenirs. Into “Tommy’s” for inexpensive wine, as suggested by Danir, plus snacks for the bus. 

More panoramas from the bus. 

          On the road again, Jelena says the Split way of life is “Slow down, don’t rush.” We follow a road right along the coast, Adriatric to the right, mountains to the left. Past a shipyard for small cruise ships. One wonderful vista after another, Klapa CD in the background. There may be a quicker way, but this is fabulous! Even a rest stop has impressive crosses silhouetted against the mountains above. Sretan put: “Have a nice trip!” 

To the Makarska Riviera, a favorite beach destination of Bosnians. A delta formed by 12 branches of the Neretva River forms a fertile area for citrus, olives, vineyards; many fruit stands line the road.

          Jelena has us get passports out for the Bosnia border, but we’re waved thru; Marjorie is disappointed: “No stamp?” We’re in Bosnia only 23 km, but a rest stop gives another pretty view of a white cross atop a hill before going back into Croatia. Jelena talks about wine, fish, mussles & oyster farms, desserts (flan is a specialty). On to Dubrovnik, over a big white bridge to the hotel area separate from the old city. Past the port with ferries & cruise ships. 

To our Lacroma Hotel, a large resort. Marjorie is impressed by the luxurious bathrooms; A+ for the shower (a major consideration for her). Buffet dinner at the hotel. 

Beautiful views as the sun sets.  

Tuesday, 10/9: “Great Walls of Croatia” 

          Some time early AM to enjoy the beautiful hotel grounds and setting between mountains and sea. News from home: Marjorie sold 3 pieces at the Hagaman show, got a 3^rd Place ribbon. Breakfast with a Florida couple whose news from home is less positive: their home is directly in the path of a hurricane (it eventually veers enough east to spare them the worst of it). 

A beautiful sunny, warm day as we head up to a panoramic viewpoint overlooking walled old town & fortifications, a beautiful large sailing ship, islands in the Adriatic; we’re literally up with the goats! Dubrovnik is considered one of the world’s best-preserved fortified cities. The fortifications kept the city from being conquered for 4 centuries. Known as the "Pearl of the Adriatic," the city juts out into the Adriatic Sea, backed by rugged limestone mountains.

Down into the old town, another World Heritage Site; lots of buses, motorcycles, people, pigeons. Into fancy clothing shop “One and Only” for some soft sell & refreshments, much like what we did on our Gate1 Turkey tour with apparently the same outfit. 

Plenty of interesting buildings, streets, shops as we head into the old city.

We pass on local opportunities for “Game of Thrones” tours, instead joining local guide Lydia by Onofrio’s Greater Fountain. She provides many historical details: “I gave you 13-14 centuries in 13-14 sentences!” The wall here is the longest after the Great Wall of China. The Franciscan Monastery has the oldest continuous pharmacy (since 1317). The Great Earthquake of 1667 triggered tsunamis & fires. 

Lydia was a child living in the city during the 1991-92 bombing by Serbs & Montenegrins in what is known here as the “Homeland War.” There is a “Lest We Forget” memorial of this on a wall along one street. The 1^st orphanage was created for “illegitimate” children (e.g., of noblemen with servants). An inscription on the side of a church by a 16^th C priest complains about children playing soccer nearby. 

More details on “Game of Thrones” filming; and, of course, more opportunities to buy merchandise. Into the very colorful “Green Market.” 

To the main plaza bordered by the Katedrala, the Rector’s Palace, and Crka Sv Vlaha (Church of patron St. Blaise). 

A climb up onto the city walls; cloudless, very warm, we can only imagine the crowds & heat in summer! But there are more Wow! views. And reminders that people still live here: a basketball court, clothes hanging out to dry. 

Wonderful views in every direction! 

Marjorie & I return to “One and Only” for lunch: a 20% Gate1 discount plus a nice quiet spot on a terrace above all the hubbub. Tasty gazpacho, cheese & tomato salad, Croatian beer Ožujsko. Marjorie takes credit for her “good idea for the day!” And chats with the waitress about shared love of cashmere coats. 

After lunch I look into the Katedrala and a Serbian Orthodox church, 

Marjorie explores colorful shops and finds a t-shirt for grandson Miles. Some gelato as we head back to the bus, joined by Una & Nancy. 

Back to the hotel, I stroll down to the coast. Then up to Nancy’s room (with a nice view) for wine and frivolity, including her efforts to explain a bit of Game of Thrones. 

A short walk to dinner nearer the coast. A wonderful evening full of good food and laughter.

Wednesday, 10/10: “Bazinga” 

      

Another gorgeous AM! Sailboats out along the coast. Today is our 1^st optional excursion: a full-day tour into Montenegro, the "Jewel of the Mediterranean." Driving out of town we pass shops named “Bazinga” (a la Sheldon on “Big Bang Theory”) and “Whatsup,” then up high for more panoramic views. Beautiful tall thin sycamore trees up the hills. 

An hour to the border, then more than an hour to get thru behind lots of other buses. Some local ethnic sayings from Jelena: “You’re as lazy as a Montenegrin.” “Jesus to the Montenegrins: ‘Don’t do anything until I get back.’” “A marathon has no winner: the Bosnian gets lost, the Montenegrin gives up.” Thru a mountainous region, with more vegetation due to more rainfall here. Jelena talks about history & culture of the area. This is a popular vacation area for Russians.

After an hour drive we reach Perast on the Bay of Kotor. Stunning beauty all around on a sunny, warm (73) day. Perast is yet another World Heritage Site that “looks like a piece of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic.” The Bay of Kotor is the longest and deepest fjord in southern Europe. 

A short boat ride as noon bells ring to the 15^th C Gospa od Škrpjela ("Our Lady of the Rocks") on an islet in the bay.

After sailors discovered an icon of Madonna & Child here in 1452, other sailors created a tradition to drop stones that created an islet, eventually leading to building a chapel to ask the Virgin Mother to bring them home safely. This is now a part of one of Europe’s oldest regattas, the Fašinada.

 We have to wait behind several groups to enter the church, but the interior is well worth the wait. It’s decorated with 68 paintings by 17^th C painter Tripo Kokolja, 

plus many donations from people who were saved or had their prayers answered. One piece has 3 silver angels from a couple who prayed to have a child and had triplets! (Jelena suggests maybe they prayed too hard.) A beautiful tapestry was made by a woman praying for 25 years for her husband’s safe return from the sea.

Back to Perast then past mussels & fish farms and a big cruise ship to Kotor, which is (can you guess?) another World Heritage Site, for a walking tour. But lunch first (we have our priorities!). We join some others at Plantaže under umbrellas in a square. I opt for the “meat menu”: tasty veal soup & pork steak; Marjorie has pizza; we share local beer. 

Lots of “stray” cats nearby; they’re common in the south, even a cat museum here, and (as we saw in Istanbul) are well cared for communally; would be a purr-fect retirement spot for stepsis Mar. Jelena: “Cats eat, sleep, and do nothing. Just like our men.”

Time to join guide “Wolf,” very tall with lots of jokes; another of our excellent local guides. He gives history of the area, points to an incredible wall snaking up a high cliff to fortifications at the top; only 1200 steps, we pass on the climb. 

 Bride & groom posing for wedding photos in a square. A maze of museums, churches, cafes and squares, and Venetian-style  palaces along cobblestone streets. 

 We pass by Town Hall, St. Triphon’s Cathedral (Wolf is proud it’s now a Basilica), Orthodox churches. A clever sign at one corner: “This is a Private Sign. Do Not Read” with arrow to a nearby bar.

We retrace our drive around the Bay (which would be a lot quicker with a couple bridges crossing the Bay, but I suppose that would not be so picturesque). Very pretty in lowering sun. 

Stuck behind Albanian buses at the border  ̶  Albanians considered untrustworthy due to smuggling, so they all are out of the bus, which is being searched; we hope they don’t confuse Albania and Albany! Jelena arranges for us to go around them, so border crossing doesn’t take too long. She hands out Kotor magnets to “the best group ever.” We arrive Dubrovnik about 7:00, a view over the old city at night. Some get out to go down for the evening, we continue to the hotel. Down to the nearby shops where we join Una & Nancy again at Piramida; I have a reprise of tasty tiramisu. Walking back we pass 9 cats loitering outside a nearby hotel restaurant. In the news: Hurricane Michael is now the strongest continental U.S. storm since 1992, wreaking devastation on Florida.

Thursday, 10/11: “Water, Water Everywhere" 

          Our stretch of fabulous weather continues: sunny and mid-60s up to low 70s. Lots of walking will also continue today. Chatting with Jelena we learn she was an elementary school  teacher before coming to Gate1 2 years ago. Jelena: “Passports, cellphones, wallets? Snowy, hit the road!” Views back of our hotel as we leave town. Jelena notes that big cruise ships are relatively new around here, tend to overwhelm. 

   

          We head back north, more panoramas, islands along the coast. As always, nice music in the bus, a mix of local and pop favorites. 

Across some water we see a big wall that separated the Republic of Dubrovnik from territory held by Venetians.  Mussels & oyster farms, wind farms along the way. At the Bosnian border we’re waved thru with a “Good luck, Captain!” to Snowy in his nautical hat, then right thru the Croatian border after a rest stop in between with view and supermarket. Jelena says they’re building a bridge to bypass this stretch of Bosnia.

Again thru the delta agricultural area. Snowy stops at his father-in-law’s fruit stand for some big bags of mandarins to share. We learn more about the Balkan (“honey blood”) region, different groups & religions among Southern Slavs. Jelena notes the complexity of what she calls “Absurdistan,” and quotes a local writer: “Where logic stops, Bosnia begins.”  We head over hills away from the coast thru rugged rocky terrain, some Fall color. Jelena talks about customs & preparations for her brother’s upcoming wedding. 

A rest stop with colorful self-serve restaurant and views of a canyon & bridge. 

I spy a big praying mantis; don’t know if the prayers are Catholic, Orthodox, or Muslim.

          To Krka National Park, 1 of 7 national parks in Croatia, for a walking tour with guide Katarina. A wooded canyon and a series of waterfalls, including 17 cascades (tho there seem more). 

A lovely walk in,  Katarina perches on a donkey.

Paths winding thru the cascades.

Highlighted by Skradinski Buk falls.  

 Beautiful trees, pretty pink miniature cyclamen flowers, 

 many ducks and fish, historic buildings including an old hydro plant. A lovely stop, including refreshing lemon gelato. But we have to climb 212 steps up the other side of the canyon! Sign says smjer obilaska (“walk this way”). 

           A pretty little church.

         

Back on the road past Sibenik; Jelena notes this town was built by Croatians, not other occupying groups, and a sizable population still lives in the old town. Across the Krka River to Hotel Punta in Vodice.

And by a promenade with many colorful boats 

Jelena says this is an older hotel than our other stays, and some complain a bit about their rooms, the only complaints (minor) we hear during the trip. But ours seems just fine  ̶  a “Perfectly Adequate Plus” on the Marjorie scale  ̶  and has a Wow! view. 

 We stroll down to the waterfront, pretty reflections in the lowering sun. Into the lovely town with an impressive monument, old alleyways and buildings, 

and Zupna Crkva Sv Criza (Church of St. Cross) with very dark interior and exterior crucifix made from barbed wire! Some news today: an emergency landing by Russian Soyez rocket with astronaut & cosmonaut headed to the space station; the Dow Jones dropped over 800 yesterday (Whew! it begins to rebound a few days later). 

Buffet dinner at the hotel along with “Bus 2” people to complete the day.

Friday, 10/12: “Small World, Long Drive” 

          Another clear sunny day, pretty sunrise, high 50s to start. And another “small world” experience: tourmate Karen’s father was born in Portage WI where Marjorie grew up! A long day ahead, from the Adriatic coast to the Julian Alps. 

We’ve rotated up to Seat #4, almost the front. The drive starts thru dry, rocky, sparsely populated areas (with “Boar Crossing” signs), turning cooler (about 50), then into craggy mountains with a series of tunels (one more than 5 km long). Out into fog and 40s, more Fall colors. 

 After a rest stop (Jelena: “My dear people, we’re going to stop now.”) out of the mountains, back into sunshine, up to 60. Motown musical background: Aretha Franklin, the Supremes, etc. Jelena talks about today in Croatia. Beautiful scenery but declining population and “brain drain” (Germany & Ireland are popular destinations). Issues in health care, the economy, education. The country was hurt by war and profiteering. Not much industry, relying too much on tourism. High taxes, inefficient bureaucracy, limited social welfare programs.

          To capital city Zagreb at noon, hazy sun, mid-60s. Past Gin Garden, an intriguing building & garden center. We meet Valentina, yet another excellent local guide, for a walking tour that begins in Gornji Grad (Upper Town). Another place that’s even more than expected, a beautiful city with interesting views & details in every direction! It’s known for many museums: art, archeology, Nikola Tesla, even a Museum of Broken Relationships!  

Crkva Svetog Marka (St. Mark’s Church) with striking tiled roof across from Sabor (Parliament), 

Katedrala with restoration begun in 2000 almost done. 

         Through the huge Dolac market; Valentina cautions “no bargaining!” She notes there aren’t many locals around the Upper Town: no coffee bars here and “We’re too lazy” to climb up.  

 

She shows where we are on a city model in the square (Trg Svetog Marka). We have a tasty lunch near the Katedrala: French onion soup that’s more like a stew, tomato & mozzarella salad, shrimp risotto. Marjorie finds a Croatian witch to add to her collection; call her “Antonia” says the friendly sales clerk, after her apparent boyfriend nearby. 

   

Out through Donji Grad (Lower Town) and the main square Trg Bana Jelačića. Past the Opera House. We hear dark stories of the Black Queen and local witches. Also local customs: the importance of baptisms, engagement & wedding parties, other wedding customs. Out Kamenita Vrata (Stone Gate) with a shrine of many offerings of hvala (thanks) to Virgin Mary.

          On the road again, right thru the Croatian border but we have to get out of the bus to show passports entering Slovenia. Another colorful rest stop. Lots of traffic heading into Croatia, returning from work or going on vacation. 

Pretty countryside: farms, rolling hills & mountains, lots of churches perched atop hills. Slovenia has more than 2000 castles, is heavily forested. It’s doing well economically. Strengths in pharmaceuticals & manufacturing, growing tourism. Melania Trump is Slovenian; maybe she’d like to come back? 

 Jelena gives each of us a traditional red gingerbread heart; I think she likes us! Heavy traffic as we near Ljubljana (they have too many consonants here, need to buy some vowels!). The setting sun catches high peaks to the east.

          Into Bled, passing Dino Park (I can’t get people interested in going to this), a large golf ball in the midst of a traffic circle (Yugoslavia’s 1^st golf course, where Tito played, is here  ̶  but I don’t have my clubs). There’s lots to do here, including an “adventure park,” boating on glacial Lake Bled, winter carnivals, etc.; it would make a fine destination in itself. This is Slovenia’s most popular resort renowned for its mild, healing climate. To our Park Hotel overlooking the lake, a nice large room.

           One more treat for today: an optional dinner of traditional Slovenian dishes & wine at a country inn in Radovljica. A walk thru the town’s 15^th & 16^th C buildings, the beautiful Church of St. Peter, 

past a Gingerbread Workshop. 

At the inn we’re greeted with bread & salt, to show respect, then into the wine cellar for cheese & sausage, entertainment by an accordionist and 2 costumed dancers. Dinner with meat, fish, and vegetarian options. The accordionist & dancers return, explain the traditional costumes, then more dancing with audience participation. A fun evening!

Saturday, 10/13: “Castles, and Dragons, and Witches, Oh My!” 

          I’m awake before sunrise, up to the 5^th-floor Terasa z Razgledom (Terrace with a View). Another Wow!: lighted 11^th C Bled Castle perched on a cliff across the lake, a nearby lighted church, Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Maria on an islet down the lake. This might just be the most beautiful spot of the whole trip! Cool, clear AM, up to mid-60s later, nice Fall colors now in the sun. Some others saw a hot-air balloon over the castle; thanks to tourmate Renee for the photo.

Back to the terrace as church bells chime. A walk down by the lake, past a dock with a large red heart and locks placed along railings. 

So many beautiful morning scenes! The little church in the lake

and the looming castle.

Such a beautiful morning, our schedule is rearranged to begin with a tour of the Castle. Jelena tells us the Pilgrimage Church was originally dedicated to the “goddess of love,” then to Mary. Bled was a destination for “medical tourism” in the early 20^th C, Tito had a villa here. More steps! To a panoramic view over the lake and mountains in the other direction. 

Other interesting sights up here: a small museum & gallery, 

lovely little chapel, 

a print shop and “bee house” (honey is big here). We cross paths again with Una & Nancy. 

Another almost-front-seats day for a drive to capital city Ljubljana, named “Green Capital of Europe” in 2016. Past a giant accordion sculpture in the middle of a traffic circle. Distinctive wooden hay racks in fields. Big traffic jams going the other direction; hope they clear by the time we return. A bit foggy as we near the city. Past a big Union brewery. 

We meet local guide Borut, an older man with a routine of groaner jokes (“Moses down from the mountain: Guys, I got Him down to 10!”), for a walking tour of the pedestrian old town. Another beautiful city, again more than expected. 

To the busy main square Prešernov trg, named for Slovenia’s greatest poet: an organ grinder, bubble blowing, pinkish St. Francis Church. 

The famous Triple Bridge, with 2 pedestrian side bridges that lead to poplar-lined terraces along the Ljubljanica River. This is one of many bridges & buildings here by Jože Plečnik, a “master of early-modern, minimalist design;” Borut contrasts his work with dreary “Communist Baroque” structures. 

Kongresni trg (Congress Square) has a large colorful car show, including solar & Tesla cars. Past the pretty Academia Philharmonicoruma, university buildings, a music academy, an obelisk with bust of Napoleon, a monastery that’s now an art school. 

   So many beautiful buildings and facades!

          To “New Square” (from the 15^th C). Many beautiful details in every direction: lots of dragons (they seem a symbol of the city), witches,

 interesting doors (a favorite photo subject for Marjorie). 

Interesting shops. Borut’s “best monument,” where you can step on the heads of politicians. 

Past the Cathedral cerkev sv. Nikolaja (Church of St. Nicholas), but can’t go in because Mass is going on. 

Thru the big Glavna tržnica (Central Market), full of colorful flowers & produce. By what Borut calls the “Saturday Night Fever” bridge (statue looks like John Travolta’s pose) and a display of painted “boards of bee hives” (or something like that). Back to the Triple Bridge and main square where Borut concludes by reciting the national anthem; in part: ♫No war, no strife shall hold its sway/Who long to see that all men free/No more shall foes, but neighbours be!♫ Jelena gathers us for a group photo, then treats us to “the best gelato” for “the best group.” Marjorie: “I’m done now!”

After a light lunch I go inside the now open and beautiful Cathedral.  

We encounter Una & Nancy; Una has a photo taken to show the 3 of us who didn’t quite travel together (she can’t seem to quite let go of that!). Into Laura Etno Galerija with many beautiful witches. Tourmate Donna finds us to bring Marjorie some smiley-face spoons she’d wanted; several others buy them and threaten a puppet show on the bus.

Back to Bled, Snowy does a “farewell drive” around the lake to Tito’s villa. 

After returning to the hotel I stroll along the lake, church bells coming from the island, lots of people out in boats, beautiful hotels & homes. Leaf-peeping at no extra charge, and we should be returning to Fall colors in NY. Marjorie finds a miniature of the Pilgrimage Church for her collection. 

A farewell reception at the hotel, hugs & good-byes. It’s been a very nice group of people to travel with. Afterward we go out for kaffe and traditional Bled cream cake that was created in our hotel.

Marjorie has put some pressure on me, telling lots of people toward the end about my travel blog, so I have to do a good job! Some people have noticed I seemed to “talk into my hand,” as I record observations in my little digital voice recorder. But even with that I can’t hope to recall all the names and myriad details from guides. As usual I’ll take a more “big picture” approach, with selective anecdotal recollections. I’ll have to incorporate not only my own 800 or so photos, but also Marjorie’s using 3 media: camera, cellphone, and Kindle.

Sunday, 10/14: “Back from the Balkans” 

          A cold (high 30s) & dark start to our early 7am start for a 4-hour drive to Venice with Pero, the bus mostly full. We’re the only ones flying home today, the others going into Venice for another night or 2. We get the very front seats, watching driver Tom bounce along in his ergonomic seat. Sunrise just after we get going. Clear, then some fog in the mountains. 

We hadn’t expected such a beautiful ride thru the mountains, pretty towns and leaf-peeping that for us will extend today from Europe to NYS! 

45 minutes into Italy, thru a bunch of tunnels, out of the mountains into agricultural areas  ̶  vineyards & orchards, stands of trees in precise rows. By Taravesio & Udine. Lots of road work, it’s good we’re traveling on a Sunday AM with less traffic. 

         Temp up to 70 as we approach Marco Polo Aeroporto. This time we’re both TSA Precheck, but wouldn’t you know  ̶  there’s no separate line. No worries, pretty quick thru security & passport control. A light lunch before boarding. An interesting menu with timeline for the flight that begins with “Settling In;” so we do. 

On-time departure, interesting views over water taking off and over the Alps again. Almost 9 hours flying time, interesting view of cloud layers coming into JFK a bit early about 4:30. We pick up our car, head out of the city and across the Tappan Zee/Mario Coumo Bridge, lighted in pink for Breast Cancer Awareness. Something to eat at a Thruway rest stop, home about 9:30.

             It was a wonderful trip. Beautiful sights along the coast, interesting old cities, impressive mountains. Jelena & Snowy were an excellent team. Local guides were consistently excellent. Our group was very friendly, and very punctual!, no one demanding or annoying. Tho we didn’t have the full pleasure of their company during the trip, we enjoyed the times we could piece together with Una and our new friend Nancy, who seems so shy & reserved (not!). Lots of walking & lots of steps to climb, hopefully counteracting the excellent food. Some long bus rides, but well-timed rest stops and almost always spectacular scenery. Weather was unsettled at the start, but mostly gorgeous after that; should have brought some short-sleeves & shorts. As always we were treated very well by Gate1: well-organized, nice hotels comfy with good locations, nice extra touches here and there.

             Was this the most beautiful place we've been? No need to rank, let's just say it's one of many exceptional travel experiences we've enjoyed. Hvala na dobrom putovanju. (Thankyou for a good trip.)