"Midnight Sun" Ocean Cruise

“Into the Midnight Sun”

June/July 2018

          My brother Doug & sister-in-law Ann declined our invite to join us on a Fall trip to Croatia. But then made a counter-offer for me to join them and daughter Katie on a Viking Ocean Cruise. Doug had booked 2 cabins but there was no option for a single fare, so I would be the “fill-in” (actually the 2^nd choice, but their grandson Aiden was too young), Doug & I sharing one cabin, Ann & Katie the other. [They knew Marjorie would be busy then with the Colonie Art League summer Art Camp for 4^th-6^th graders she organizes (and is one of the instructors)  ̶  I suppose now she’ll want an equivalent trip with her sister.] Doug & I have enjoyed trips together, and I didn’t want to miss the opportunity for more time together . . . with Ann & Katie as a bonus! Marjorie & I have enjoyed several Viking river cruises, so it will be interesting to sample their ocean cruises. And the itinerary is very attractive: Shetland Islands and Edinburgh in Scotland, along the Norwegian coast including 3 ports above the Arctic Circle! (Marjorie thinks maybe I’ll see Santa!), finishing in Bergen, one of our favorite places from a Scandinavian tour in 2008. (Sadly, I will be unable to connect with one of our regular Albany Symphony guests, bassist Tristan, now with the Bergen Philharmonic. He did e-mail to say, as I suspected, that with the season over he is not in the city.) Norway is “home” to Viking for obvious reasons, including the Norwegian founder (in 1997) & Chairman Torstein Hagen. 

Some preliminary work to be done. Each day in port has an included excursion (offered at several times) plus various optionals. There’s something of a “class” distinction to selecting these not found on the river cruises. Our “Deluxe Veranda” cabins and other “Verandas” are 2/3 of the passengers, but “Suites” & “Penthouses” get first crack at reservations for excursions and specialty dining. Our time to reserve excursions begins 4/20 at 3am, much like my midnight on-line Disney World FastPass reservations 4 years ago. Katie and I wind up working in parallel to make desired arrangements, with varying combinations of the 4 of us on the tours. The evening of that same day I attend an art reception at the Albany Airport where several pieces have Arctic themes; seems like karma. Packing also takes some preparation. Forecast is for 80s on arrival in Greenwich; in contrast, it looks like 40s to 50s along the northern Norwegian coast. I bring “layers.” And packed fairly light, expecting to do some laundry on the ship. Marjorie gave me a packing tutorial on the use of “space bags” to squeeze things together.

Marjorie will be plenty busy while I’m away. Our summer schedule has become a “perfect storm” of busyness. The calendar became crowded after a relaxed trip to Bucks & Lancaster Counties PA. We hosted the new Empire State Youth Orchestra Music Director, Carlos Agreda, for 2 weeks, helping him look for a place to live and a car, and driving him to some auditions and meetings. That overlapped with son Matt staying here while performing and mentoring in “Mostly Modern Festival” at Skidmore College in Saratoga; and during that time Grandma spent 4 days in Queens helping with grandsons William & Miles. The Art Camp will begin the day I leave. Then William and Miles will come for their summer visit a few days before I return, including transporting to day camps (soccer and dance, respectively). Whew! I do have some guilt pangs about abandoning Marjorie . . . but she encouraged me to “spend time with your brother.” And I was around to help set things up for the Art Camp on Sunday.

Monday, June 25: “Hurry Up and Wait” 

A nice AM, Marjorie pronounces it "good Camp weather." I get a bit earlier start than planned, easy ride to Marlene's. She takes me to the train station, only 10 minutes until the next Metro North to Grand Central. (Oops! Don't get on Amtrak.) I buy a ticket onboard (no extra charge for seniors).

The usual pretty views along the Hudson: Bannerman Island, the new Tappan Zee Br., etc.; river traffic ranging from barges to kayaks. 

A gorgeous day in NYC. A few blocks hike to the Airporter bus. From an intersection ½ block away I spot the driver  ̶  I wave, he waves and waits, I get on, we pull away. Views of the Manhattan skyline in the distance. At JFK a 5-minute curb check-in and quick thru security. Whew, everything connected so quick I'm here 6 hours before my flight! Seems crazy even for me, but nuthin' better to do. I've already been exercising my shutter finger on the way down and here. I have appropriate reading: The Sea Wolves: A History of the Vikings; characters range from Ragnar Lothbrok, Erik the Red, & Leif Erikson to Ivar the Boneless, Harald Bluetooth, & Aud the Deep Minded (I donate this to the ship’s library when I finish). On-time takeoff at 8pm. A beautiful sunset silhouettes the skyline.

 Tuesday, June 26: “I in the Sky” 

          On time to Heathrow. A long snaking line takes 1½ hours at Passport Control. As we cycle around I meet several fellow cruisers recognizable by our Viking “badges.” Viking staff waiting for us, another 1½ hour coach ride from one side of London to the other, past some pretty Londonish neighborhoods and pubs, with guide giving some orientation (e.g., lingo like "lift" & "tube," the place of beer in the culture). To Greenwich where our ship is docked. Greenwich, a borough of London along the Thames River, has a long maritime history and is a UNESCO Site. At the Royal Observatory the world’s longitude is measured from the Prime Meridian, and Greenwich Mean Time sets the global time standard.

Viking has a big tent set up in a park outside the Old Royal Naval College. Very organized, many women in white blouses & red scarves to greet & sign you in. But it'll be another 2 hours until staterooms are ready, and more until luggage is delivered. A short "tender" ride to our ship, a glass of wine as we board, up to Deck 7 for lunch at World Cafe buffet (hot & cold options plus bakery & gelato)  ̶  let the overeating begin! I sit with a couple from Minneapolis I'd met in the passport line. Then connect with Doug et al.; their flight from Toronto had been delayed.

A beautiful sunny, very warm PM. I disembark for a brief stroll in Greenwich. Resident Pianist Nora is playing in the pretty Atrium when I return (and Guitarist Georgios is also on at various times). 

Up to my stateroom, steward Jerrick gives some orientation . . . the mini-bar is complimentary! (Well, for non-alcoholic stuff like soda & candy, which I mostly squirrel away for the grandsons.) Seems roomier than on river cruises.  Marjorie would especially approve the shower, and even a heated bathroom floor. I unpack to find a nice note in my suitcase from my Sweetie. "Daily Viking" newsletter lists all the things going on each day: various musical entertainment, lectures, etc. TV includes live news/sports channels, movies, TV series (including "Downton Abbey" & "Vikings"); I enjoy watching such classic musicals as "Grease" and “West Side Story." I tour the Fitness and Spa areas, well-equipped with lots of options. Want to feel like a Viking? Do the "Nordic" hot/cold/hot routine. We all attend the Port Talk (done each day to orient for the next day's activities) with Cruise Director Drew and Shore Excursion Manager Manolo. There's a lot of yawning, not much sleep accumulated by the group. 

Then our 1st dinner buffet that includes filet mignon & duck, plus, as a woman notes, always "dainty, delightful, delicious" desserts.

Marjorie & I had a lovely London stay in 2004, so I don’t feel a need to tour around the city. But London at night sounded attractive. A gorgeous evening, quite a bit cooler, as I head out with Doug on our 1st excursion (optional), "London and the London Eye," to "witness the spectacle of London from the water and from the air." A mic problem, so the poor guide tries to shout over the boat engines as we head upriver toward London. Tour boats, tenders, sailboats, shells, colorful construction platforms. 

So many beautiful bridges and buildings: Tate Modern, Tower of London & Tower Bridge, St. Paul's. "Eccentric" buildings with descriptive public nicknames: the "Erotic Gherkin," the "Kim Kardashian Building" (guess why that name),  the "Shard" (now Europe's tallest building). Past where actress Helen Mirren lives, another area that was highlighted in "Oliver," and the "Wapper" section refers to a gruesome type of murder. 

We dock across from Parliament & Big Ben (mostly covered with scaffolding!) to ride up in the "London Eye" ferris wheel. This Millenium 2000 project was only expected to last 5 years, but it's become so popular. 

Lots of people but only a short wait for 23 of our group to clamber into a still-moving car, 15 minute ride to the top (440'). 

It's so clear!: Buckingham Palace, Wembley Stadium, Parliament, even a vague view of Windsor Castle 25 miles away! Wow! Many photos are taken. A great start! Thought we'd have nighttime views, but the sun is still up. 

Then as we head back down the Thames a full moon is rising as the last rays of the setting sun glint off buildings at 9:15. I fight to stay awake as it gets darker, pretty views along the river, including party boats along the shore, and more views from the ship when we're back. 

           Some info about our ship, the “Viking Sea,” which I’ve now begun to explore. Built in 2016, it carries 930 passengers (vs. about 150 on river cruises). There are 9 decks, 5 holding most of the cabins; we’re on Deck 4. All cabins have outside verandas, king beds, big flat-screen TVs, and other touches like minifridges & binoculars. And you can buy some room amenities: soap dish is a mere $140, tissue box $280! 

Ship amenities include pools (not likely to get much use on this voyage) on the “sports deck” (which also includes shuffleboard, putting, bocce, none of which I use), fitness center (plus 360° promenade around the ship, 4 laps = 1 mile), spa, 2 cinemas & a theater, lounges & terraces, and self-serve launderettes. 

  

 

There’s plenty of artwork thruout the ship; e.g., polar expedition photos in Explorers Lounge, drawings by Chinese children in staterooms, Bayeaux Tapestry images in stairwells, Edvard Munch works several places. Dining options range from a main seated restaurant, buffet-style World Café, and some casual spots, to a Scandinavian deli, Italian restaurant, and Chef’s Table “elegant dining” (all are included, tho reservations needed for the latter two). Katie found some on-line customer reviews of our ship so we had some tips on good viewing and dining spots. There is also on-board “Cultural Enrichment”: Resident Historians, lectures, TED Talks.  

Wednesday, June 27: “Greenwich Not So Mean”

Cloudy & cool (60) early, clearing to sunny & warm by mid-AM. In the news: Concerns about the Supreme Court, present & future, after rulings against union fees and upholding Trump's travel ban, plus swing voter Justice Kennedy announces retirement; There's talk of a Trump-Putin summit. In sports: defending World Cup champ Germany is out in the group stage; heads will roll! After some difficulty figuring out the shower, breakfast buffet (hot: French toast, eggs, meats, etc.; cold: fruits, cheeses, etc.; bakery) in World Cafe with the "Other Wards," then I successfully upload some photos to send home. Things to remember: room card (also used to disembark & return), the "QuietVox" to hear guides on excursions, using hand sanitizers before entering dining areas. Today's on-board options range from Nordic facial or hari ritual, to "Irish Jig and American Fiddle Tunes." Ann & Katie are interested in the Greenwich Market. 

I head off on included "Royal Greenwich by Foot" with guide John, who promises a "gentle stroll." Past Cutty Sark, the only surviving tea clipper and the world's fastest sailing ship when built in 1863. Across the river we see Canary Wharf with high-tech businesses and the white Millenium Dome (aka "Tony Blair's Folly"). Around the U of Greenwich and Old Royal Naval College grounds. 

Famous Tarfalgar Arms pub. The Queen's House and 1st royal park with the Royal Observatory at the top. John shows he can say every King & Queen of England in one breath, apparently commonplace for English schoolchildren. 

Past the Nat'l Maritime Museum, the world's largest seafaring museum; it's fronted by a large ship-in-bottle sculpture "Victory in a Bottle," a replica of Adm. Nelson's ship vs. the Spanish Armada. 

To St. Alfege Church with pretty steeple & flowers. After the tour I find an ATM for local $, then briefly into Greenwich Market with many artisans & ethnic foods.

Back to the ship in time for the mandatory safety drill (would they throw you off if you skipped?), delayed by waiting for late excursion returnees. Showing her (and Ann's) priorities Katie exclaims: "Save the knitting!" Lunch buffet includes tasty lamb & marinated turkey. Narration as the ship leaves Greenwich. We weave back-and-forth across the Prime Meridian between East & West Hemispheres. Under a string of gondola cars installed for the 2012 Olympics. 

To the Thames Barrier for flood control. The experienced pilot doing narration talks of the complexities in getting thru here: "Hold your breath and close your eyes!" Some cruisers take advantage of sunny warmth to use the pool. 

I join Ann & Katie at Wintergarden lounge for tea; Ann says the best part of cruising is "sittin' and floatin'" We enjoy such fare as scones, tarts, and cucumber sandwiches with our tea. At about 6pm we head out into the North Sea. We heard the last cruise had 20-foot swells in the North Sea that caused delays and cancellation of one port. Fingers crossed for us. Some whitecaps and ship motion, but quite smooth now. We pass some large wind farms.

Tonight we have a reservation at Chef's Table, a fancier dining spot with fixed menu (7 different ones during the cruise). Tonight it's 5 "Sweet and Salty"courses with wine pairings: amuse bouche of tomato & watermelon gazpacho, grilled scallop with beets & passion fruit, prosciutto & melon, veal tenderloin with pumpkin & red onion marmalade, strawberry and basil delight with Grand Marnier bavaroise. An excellent and leisurely meal. 

Afterward a concert trio in the Atrium. I chat with the flutist from Hungary who had noticed my Julliard t-shirt earlier. The Captain's Welcome Party in Star Theater has musical prelude followed by Capt. Bent Ivar Gangdal introducing the ship's senior staff. The Canadian Security Director offers to talk hockey & poutine. To Explorers' Lounge with a pianist playing as a full moon reflects across the North Sea. How idyllic! A chat with the Other Wards, then off to bed.

Thursday, June 28: “At Sea” 

 

I'm awake about 4am, it's already pretty light. Might as well stay up. Sunrise & seabirds at 4:30, still smooth sailing. Past a number of oil rigs during the day. My 1st session in the Fitness area; will that counter the desserts?  In the news: 28-year-old Democrat/Socialist upsets House veteran in NYC primary. 

We all head to The Restaurant for a menu breakfast; not so many choices, but quieter. Ann luxuriates in hot chocolate. A beautiful AM, sunny and cool, free time to explore, work on the journal, read, whatever. After chatting with a friendly Wisconsin couple, I join the family for trivia in Explorers' Lounge. Our team, "Mental Wards" (my suggestion), doesn't win, but there are no prizes anyway. Several of us have fish & chips for lunch. Doug & I head for a talk on the Vikings but it's SRO; we can catch it later on our TV. It's a gorgeous PM to just hang out  ̶  people around the pool, filling deck chairs, strolling about. Who could have expected such terrific "at sea" weather? There's gonna be sunburns tomorrow! Our team rendezvous at tea, then to the Port Talk. Tomorrow's Edinburgh excursion will be limited a bit by security concerns prepping for the Queen visiting. 

 World Cafe buffet for dinner (better views & more choices than other venues), chicken Kiev included tonight; and the other side has sushi & seafood buffet. Doug & I pass the guitarist playing in the Atrium

and head to "Best of Broadway" show by cruise musicians. The theater is full for an excellent show  ̶  lots of talent on board! 

Done after 10, still quite light, very calm, beautiful full moon rising. 

Friday, June 29: “Thistle Do Nicely” 

Early AM fog. Imagine that in Scotland! A longer tender ride here (the ship carries 4 large tenders)  ̶  where we "park" depends on the tides. And be careful how we behave on deck; Viking will be filming from a drone today. An interesting e-mail from Marjorie: She came home after the last Art Camp day to find a crew finishing a new driveway at our house . . . by mistake! Maybe if I stay away longer we’ll get a pool.

An attractive optional excursion here for this golfer was to St. Andrews: the Royal and Ancient Golf Club is a golfing shrine. But it’s an 8-hour trip, and I know from watching British Opens how gales can blow over the course! So Doug & I are doing the included “Edinburgh Highlights” tour, Ann & Katie decide to go on their own to a knitting shop. The fog delays excursion departures until tenders have good sight lines to land. After a 2-hour wait we board as water bottles are handed out. About 15 minutes to the "Firth of Forth," crossing one of the world’s longest suspension bridges, and Newhaven, the "new" harbor built the beginning of the 16th C. 

Onto a bus for the short ride into Edinburgh. Guide says we're experiencing haar, summer mist following warm temps, which should lift. She says it makes the Castle, set on a craggy volcanic rock, "spooky" today. It also means we'll skip the high panoramic viewpoint, since there's no visibility now. Too bad, this becomes a driving tour with no stops; grabbing photo ops is a challenge. But still interesting, with history & culture narration thruout. The city is built on volcanic hills, and is a World Heritage Site noted especially for Georgian architecture. Charlotte Sq a good example of the latter. 

We see childhood homes of Rob't Louis Stevenson & Alexander Graham Bell, also the home of Sir Walter Scott. Classic lampposts with "stuffers" (to extinguish) & boot-scrapers. Past the controversial contemporary Scottish Parliament, National Museum of Scotland, U of Edinburgh. 

  Along the Royal Mile between Edinburgh Castle (peering down at us thru the mist) and the Queen's Holyrood (Holy Cross) Palace. Some less weighty matters: Today's the last school day here. A sign of the times: classic red phone booth now an ATM. Past "Elephant House," claiming to be the birthplace of Harry Potter because one story was allegedly written here. The 1st Scottish golf course, where Mary Queen of Scots played (wonder what her handicap was). A gift shop: "Thistle Do Nicely." 

Pub "Greyfriars Bobby," named after a constable killed in action and his dog who guarded the grave for 14 years until death. Edinburgh looks to be an interesting place to spend more time.

Back to Newhaven, passing Ocean Terminal shops and Royal Britannia yacht. We just miss a tender, so poke around a bit in Welch Fishmongers until the next one. 

To the Pool Grill for tasty burgers; quiet here now, the retractable roof is closed. Hazy sun by mid-afternoon, temps 65-70. Now we can see the Edinburgh "skyline" from the ship. I start walking on the Promenade but it's too brisk outside, so to a Fitness treadmill to finish. 

Dinner at The Restaurant. Ann & Katie tell about their rather adventurous day. An excellent dinner; for me: oysters Rockefeller, prime rib, blueberry pie. For entertainment we can see a tender being loaded just outside the dining area, later a colorful ship passes. 

So many choices for tonight: film of the Met's La Boheme, Rock 'n' Roll Name That Tune, Dancing Under the Stars, Nordic Bathing Ritual. I choose opera, then watch some dancing by the pool as the sun sets.

Saturday, June 30: “Spectacular Scotland” 

 Plenty of AM sun . . . at 5:15! Low 50s. Down to Fitness, then a quick bite at World Cafe, greeted as "first customer," they keep trying to refill my OJ. Lots of early staff activity, cleaning inside public spaces and decks outside. E-mail from Dennis inviting me for golf Monday; replied to suggest he meet me at St. Andrews. In the news: A troubling essay: "The America we thought we knew is gone." But here we enjoy beautiful views headed into the harbor . . . without leaving our breakfast table! More views from Explorers' Lounge in the bow. 

Today seems the real start of the trip, Greenwich & Edinburgh were preludes. We dock 3 miles from Kirkwall, the largest town and capital of the Scottish Orkney Islands; free shuttle into town. Waiting to disembark I chat with an editor/writer who's doing a piece on the cruise. Of course, I share my blog address with her.

Off the ship and onto the bus for our included "Highlights of Historic Orkney" excursion. Native Orkadians guide Madeline & driver Allison: "We know everything you need to know. If not we'll make it up." M's nephew is a fiddler with a traditional band. An excellent tour, informative & humorous.There are 70 Orkney Islands, 20 inhabited, 22K population (but more cows than people). Voted the "Best Place to Live and Bring Up Children." Wonderful views as we drive along: windmills, stone walls, farms, cattle & sheep, heather & gorse, Shetland ponies. Panoramic views of Scapa Flow (inlet). A perfectly gorgeous day, spectacular scenery!! 

 A stop at Stromness Ferry Terminal, time to stroll into town. A pretty harbor, colorful boats & buildings, nice shops. 

 On to the Ring of Brodgar (this is starting to sound very Tolkein), a 5,000-year-old stone circle (27 of the original 70) plus 3,000-year-old burial mounds; this and the nearby Standing Stones are older than Stonehenge. But the purpose is unknown. No matter, wonderful panoramic views, pretty purple heather and white bog cotton flowers. Local info: the sun is down here now only 10:30-2:30; taxes are 20% but good medical coverage; this is home to the world's northernmost distillery  ̶  but it's not on this tour. We pass Lochs of Stenness & of Harray, Standing Stones, seals on rocks.

Back to the ship for lunch, orange caramel gelato a highlight. Then I catch the shuttle into Kirkwall. Kirkwall's ties to Viking history date to the 13th C Orkneyinga Saga. Beautiful red sandstone St. Magnus Cathedral. Outside is busy with an arts & crafts fair (an especially colorful display of candy), and lots of motorcycles. 

Over to nearby pretty Tankerness House Gardens, Bishop's (12th C) & Earl's (17th C) Palaces. 

Back to the Cathedral, but it's closed for a wedding! And along come groomsmen in their kilts.

  More strolling, colorful shops, iconic chimneys. Shuttle back to the ship, joined by some crew with full bags of groceries. Bagpipes and dancers on the pier as dinnertime nears. 

 A beautiful evening as we set sail. A World Cafe buffet dinner joined by Roger & Myrna (retired chemistry prof & lawyer). The chocolate fountain is a big hit. After dinner I chat with Roger & Myrna, then briefly with some of the ship's singers. Later a chat with a woman from Philly (sounds like the start of a limerick) while we wait for yet another beautiful sunset.

Sunday. July 1: “Ponies, Sheep, and Up Helly Aa” 

  Happy Canada Day! Lots of AM sun, not a cloud in sight. Mid-50s headed to low 60s. E-mail from Marjorie says it will be 100+ in Albany today! A busy day ahead: 2 excursions for me, 3 different ones in our group. Breakfast with a couple from Georgia as we come in past pretty cliffs & lighthouse, accompanied by pilot boat into the harbor. Docking outside of town at Mair's Pier, shuttle bus again to go into town. Impressive Antarctica II next to us and other colorful fishing boats, Viking decorated ferry nearby.  

 I disembark for my optional "Lerwick and the Up Helly Aa" with guide Anita. Lerwick is another World Heritage Site, reflecting Neolithic archeology. It's as northerly as Anchorage. Glaciers and volcanic activity have created a diverse geology. Like Norway, fishing & aquaculture are key economic activities. A short drive into town, past a big public "leisure park," for a walking tour of the lovely town: narrow hilly lanes, colorful banners overhead, flower baskets on buildings; I'm especially taken with all the chimneys. 

 Some people in our group are fans of the TV show "Shetland" filmed here. We start at Victoria Pier with houses & warehouses from when this was the premier herring town in Northern Europe; and it's still a major fishing region. Lerwick is the capital of the Shetlands, made up of some 100 islands (16 inhabited); this island has the rather uninspired name "Mainland." Anita says some of the seabirds are gannets, which I tell her is my Mom's name; I also tell her about our Scottish guide Barry in Spain. 

To Fort Charlotte for a harbor view as a replica Viking longship glides by, and young cadets being drilled nearby. At a war memorial Anita notes the importance of the Shetlands in WWII. 

Past a pretty flower park and row of beautiful houses; some of the women in our group say they're deciding which house to purchase.

 A stop at the "Up Helly Aa" exhibit is a highlight of this tour. This is sort of a Viking Carnival on the last Tuesday in January: torchlight parade led by men in Viking costumes, followed by a variety of other costumes & floats, then the torches are thrown onto a longship to make a bonfire, leading to much partying! This dates to the 19th C, but the origin of the name seems unknown. We're shown a video, then "you can play with the helmets and swords." Very colorful exhibits. and we can take a past programme. 

On to the Shetlands Museum, a view of our ship across the harbor framed by other colorful boats. Thought I might walk off 1-2 desserts with this walking tour, but we get cake & coffee at the Museum! Oh well, not my fault. 

A short walk back to the shuttle stop. A chat with a shopkeeper whose wife is from New Jersey, 2 very young buskers serenade us as we board the shuttle. World Cafe lunch highlighted by braised lamb shoulder & scalloped potatoes. Doug et al. come along  ̶  and he's found some of the sugar packets Marjorie covets!

After lunch Doug & I do included “Shetland Panorama & Ponies” tour with guide Paula & driver Albie. Thru town past a broch (stone structure) and "The World's Best Youth Hostel" (in 2015). Then driving along with beautiful bay views, ponies & sheep, peat & heather-covered hills; the Other Wards saw northern cliffs on their AM tour. No trees here except more recent plantings in sheltered areas. Photo stop on the Atlantic side for panorama of Scalaway Castle & harbor. 

A visit with Carol's Shetland ponies at Ramnamburg Stud. Carol's an active cancer survivor with a box for donations; I contribute on Marjorie's behalf. Shetland ponies date to the Bronze Age. They appear very placid, but are pound-for-pound the strongest horse. 

We drive along 1-lane roads with marked "Passing Places." Paula says the Gulf Stream keeps the climate "moderate," and not a lot of snow. But being between the North Atlantic & North Sea means the islands are battered by winter storms.Trampolines are a favorite in summer, but in winter they'd be blown to Norway. Highest recorded wind is 198 mph!, tho unofficial because the gauge blew away. Paula says she was advised to have a project to get thru the winter, so she took up knitting. Local birds include black & white Oystersnappers and Whooper Swans. Tho oil has brought more money into the region, fishing & aquaculture are still the major economic forces. Thru Tingwall Valley past fresh-water lochs, 2 golf courses funded by oil companies, a 1790 church. Elaborate model RR in a back yard. Areas of peat harvesting, Shetland sheep grazing on heather hills. A stop at Wormadale for very windy panoramic view.

Back to the ship in time for tea as we leave the harbor with more beautiful views. Dinner buffet includes chateaubriand & fettuccini, plus shrimp, scallops, etc. 

We've heard the "Classical Trio"  ̶  3 young Hungarian women on flute, cello, and violin  ̶  in various spaces, but tonight they're on the "big stage" Star Theater. Eclectic offerings range from Strauss' "Blue Danube" to Jimi Hendrix' "Purple Haze." One piece is dedicated to a couple having their 57th anniversary. Up top as the sun lowers over the North Sea, some oil rigs on the horizon.

Monday. July 2: “Into the Arctic” 

A quiet pretty day "at sea," crossing the North Sea and across the Arctic Circle around midnight; about 700 miles (or 600 nautical miles) from Shetland Islands to our 1st Norway port. Bright sun to start (later changing to partly sunny, then mostly cloudy by noon). Still only gentle "slight to moderate" sea conditions; no need so far for my dramamine or Doug's wristbands to combat motion sickness.. We're in & out of satellite range, so no news this morning (which seems a good thing!). I manage to decipher controls, or at least make good guesses, to use the free launderette. Breakfast in The Restaurant with favorite waiter Umashankar. Various program options during the day, including educational & musical. 

We do a Q&A with Norwegian Cap't & Austrian Hotel Manager. They describe how they got started, what they do. I ask about the process for launching lifeboats (but I'm not worried!). We learn about food supply & preparation, fuel needs, etc. The ship has 460 crew, 41 nationalities; English is the "ship language." Viking is growing to 65 river & 16 ocean ships. After crossing the Arctic Circle we'll have 4 days without a sunset! The sun will be at its lowest tonight at 1:15am.

Explorers' Lounge lunch: fruit plus tasty Suksessterte cake. We win the trivia game on a tie-breaker (# of carats in the world's largest sapphire), but still no prize. Dolphin/whale action off the bow, but I miss it. Wimbledon tennis begins today. There's an afternoon "Blue Nose Arctic Circle Order Ceremony" to recognize crossing the Arctic Circle. It entails a plunge into a cold pool, so the Wards don't participate; but a number take the plunge, including a couple on their anniversary, and many more cheer them on. I take more photos of ship spaces. 

To The Restaurant for dinner; it's busy, we're not the only ones skipping the "Lutefisk Buffet" in World Cafe. For me: seafood gumbo, lobster, chocolate raspberry lava cake with pistachio gelato. A helicopter was hovering over the ship earlier, but don't know why. Past movie "Atomic Blond" by the pool to play Name That Tune; we don't win. A pod of killer whales passes by.

Tuesday, July 3: “Fish and Chicks” 

We awaken above the Arctic Circle in Norway. Maybe this "Midnight Sun" thing is messin' with my biorhythms  ̶  I'm pretty wide awake before 4am. Light rain (our 1st of the trip), a steely-gray look to the sky & sea, another ship on the horizon. Low 50s today. In contrast, the NE US is having a "sweltering heat wave." My semi-regular visit to the Fitness center before breakfast. Lots of "Good morning, Sir!" (always with the "Sir;" or “Good Morning, Sir Russell” from steward Jerrick) greetings from busy staff. We're headed into Lofoten, an archipelago of multiple islands stretching 118 miles into the Norwegian Sea, named one of the world's "Best Destinations" by National Geographic. Beautiful rugged coastline, houses perched on stilts (rorbus) or nestled among the rocks, the "hulking massifs" partially obscured by low clouds. Breakfast with a couple from Melbourne. Ann & Katie off to included tour "Panoramic Lofoten," Doug & I will range farther on optional "Nusfjord Harbor, Majestic Flakstad Church & Sund." Time to use my vest, maybe umbrella today.

Guide Eric & driver Toonts welcome us to their rather comfy bus. As usual here, strict about using seatbelts. Off we go past beautiful hills, rocks covered with moss, lichen, other flowers & greenery. We're 20 km above the Arctic Circle. Population of Lofoten is 25K, 10K on this island. Like the Shetlands, the Gulf Stream keeps things milder than on the mainland. Thru a tunnel under the water (Nappstraumtunnelen); there's a sonic "barrier" at one end to keep foxes from using the tunnel to get to polar hares (not bears, as Doug thought!) on the next island. 

To fishing village Napp. More pretty views driving by high craggy hills with still some patches of snow, a series of fjords. The word for the day is "atmospheric": low clouds, a brief sprinkle, later some breaks of sun. It all seems so very "Norway"! Narrow roads, watch for sheep and squeeze pass the many campers. 

 Narration about fishing (cod the main one) before stopping at Nusfjord, an inactive fishing village now a UNESCO Site open-air museum and one of the three places selected for the European Architectural Heritage Year in 1975. Many nesting kittiwakes (and chicks) perched on windows.   

Pretty colorful buildings set between the water and high hills. Wow! 

 More narration as I drift in & out of awakeness; can only process so much! Past "Copacabana" beach, but the water's only 10 C. Racks for drying fish. Salmon farms. A stop to see blacksmith/sculptor Hans Gjertsen (Doug buys a cormorant) and museum of engines. The locals buy CDs of engine noises because they like them so much; go figure.  

Back on the bus there's a drawing for a small sculpture given by the blacksmith. We learn that clouds are just dust from trolls cleaning their caves. More beautiful scenery as we drive along. 

Past a surfing beach (!) to a stop at a nearby red church, Flakstad Kirke, dating to 1790. A pretty setting, nice wooden interior. 

 


As we drive back to the ship Eric recounts the how and why of the move from Amsterdam by him & his wife, how they make a living, and other personal history.

 We join a friendly Florida couple at lunch. More sun as we depart to continue further north. The Capt. says we'll have scenic cruising tonight, but the afternoon is pretty open. I've been able to send e-mails & some photos home via ship computers (tho photos apparently too large for Facebook), but connections not working after lunch. Maybe Santa blocks them up here? But I'm back in business after dinner. In the news: More concerns about the future of Roe v Wade; Boys missing in a Thai cave located, but it may take a long time to get them out. Clouds build up after dinner. 

 We're going thru narrower passages among islands, a pretty tanker next to us. This seems more like a river cruise. Capt. says we've lowered a mast to get under a bridge ahead.

 Up top for photos of the sun not setting. The Other Wards play pinochle. 

 Back to the stateroom to find an "official" certificate for crossing the Arctic Circle. Out again for "Liar's Club," ship's officers giving competing definitions of obscure words (e.g., kakkerlakk = albino cockroach, fulfart = full speed ahead). WiFi turned off so you can't Google the answers. But the word that brings down the house is used offhandedly by Financial Officer Arneka for a gender change operation: addadicktomey! 

Elsewhere a group of Brits is watching World Cup soccer, Classical Trio performing in Explorers' Lounge. I have a nice chat with a couple I met at Passport Control, Bruce & Jean from Long Island. Some midnight (almost) sun photos, then to bed.

Wednesday, July 4: “Baby, It’s Cold Up North!” 

Happy 4th of July! And Happy Birthday to Ann! A free AM, not docking until 1:00. Fitness busier than usual, 10 instead of 1-2. Mostly cloudy but bright, very calm, again sailing among islands as we keep going north; mid-40s, so the word for the day is "bracing"! Noteworthy at breakfast: dim sum, sparkly patriotic hats, a Marvin the Martian t-shirt. We don't win a trivia contest, but I remember kangaroo & emu are on the Aussie coat of arms. There's a Hurtigruten ship, offering coastal trips that combine freight with passengers (rather more rustic than Viking). The steward surprises Ann with a "Happy Birthday!", and then a cake & sparkling wine "From Your Friends on Viking Sea." Lunch highlighted by cannelloni al forno & short ribs; and we polish off Ann's BD cake afterward. 

Sky's brightening as we pass rugged cliffs with a "Jurassic Park" look. 

 The family points out to me what appear to be elf children peering from the birches on wallpaper behind some elevators. 

Pretty views as we come into Honningsvag, on Mageroya Island overlooking a bay of the Barents Sea. We're late but thankfully able to avoid tendering, and all excursions will run in full. Down a steep gangplank, lots of buses waiting for us at the pier.

My included "Drive to North Cape" has become self-guided (i.e., driver but no guide, so we can just make things up). A very twisty drive, very bleak rocky terrain, patches of snow; Marjorie would not like this drive, especially in & out of fog. Are those reindeer? (Yes, says a staff guy at the Visitor Center.) 

We reach the main event: a panoramic view from high cliffs at Nordkapp (North Cape), the northernmost point of Europe. But thick fog hides the view, plus cold & windy. The Visitor Center has dioramas of historical visits to the Cape, small St. Johannes Kapelle, a Thai museum commemorating a visit by King Chulalongkorn, and Cave of Lights sound and light show thru the 4 seasons. 

 

 More affecting is the Children of the World Monument outside, designed by children with a Mother and Child pointing to images of peace and hope. Also a display of local seabirds, DIY stone towers, plenty of trolls in the gift shop. 

A good view of reindeer on a foggy drive back. A long cold line to board the ship, but staff lined up on both sides to cheerfully greet us. Hot chocolate and warm towels as we come on board. Nice hospitality, overall the delay was handled well, and we're leaving only a little behind schedule.

 Dinner includes Norwegian meatballs and lamb shank. Breaks of sun as we set sail. We all take in a show, "Behind the Pen," with fast-paced medleys from "iconic" songwriters such as  Carole King, Dolly Parton, & Billy Joel. Very entertaining: 4 excellent singers and the "Viking Band," well choreographed. But it's the 4^th, no "God Bless America" or "Yankee Doodle Dandy"? 

Thursday, July 5: “Northernmost” 

Low clouds as we continue north to a busy day in Tromso. Low 50s but headed to 60s. Internet & TV access in & out as we head further north. Pretty houses along the shore, under a bridge . . . and trees!  Tromso is a larger place: 72K population, the world's northernmost place with 50K+. 

Doug & I do included "Panoramic Tromso" with sweet and a bit addled guide Marieke, mostly a drive around with 2 stops. A variety of housing styles, another Viking ship in port, over a bridge to a stop at the Arctic Cathedral. 

 Past Tromso Cathedral, Macks Beer Brewery (the northernmost brewery and "of course, the best beer in the world"), other pretty buildings. A nice beach where people swim . . . for 30 seconds. Sunshine is breaking out and will lead to a warm cloudless PM. Marieke tells about festivals during "polar night" and increasing activity in summer; "we celebrate when it's dark, and we celebrate when it's light." 

2^nd stop offers a magnificent panorama of mountains & water, pretty little flowers among rocks, reindeer nearby. M talks about colorful costumes & other traditions at the end of high school, and some of the indigenous Sami culture. Past the northernmost University with 10K students. Tromso is one of the best places for Northern Lights, seen 5-6 times a week in winter. Past Arctic Botanical Garden, the (can you guess?) northernmost botanical garden. 

I walk around a bit after the tour, finding a "Mini Bank" to get kroner. The pretty downtown reminds me of Reykjavik, colorful buildings leading down to the harbor ringed by snow-capped mountains. Lunch highlight is crispy duck confit, plus my usual cranberry juice . . . and a bit of wine, always plentiful at lunch & dinner. 

Off on my optional "Life in the Arctic" excursion.. Another roomier bus with guide Felix. A stop at Polaria Museum, the world's northernmost aquarium (OK, let's just assume everything is "northernmost" here) of Arctic sea creatures above & under the ice. A panoramic movie about Spitzbergen. Harbor & bearded seal pool. Exhibits about the decline in sea ice and dangers of plastic, research in Antarctica. 

More scenic driving, bright sunshine & warm (70?), some napping (not just me!). Killer & humpback whales used to follow herring here, but patterns have changed. People using roller skis. 

A stop at Villmarkssenter, home to some 350 Huskies. An interesting film about mother & son (Tove & Torkil) taking part in the 600-mile Finnmarkslopet sled dog race. Then out to meet the friendly dogs; sign says "Please Cuddle." And such adorable puppies; would one fit into my carry-on? I’d name him Thor, but Marjorie later seems unenthusiastic. Beautiful mountains & lake in the distance. Another Wow! 

We drive on, beautiful flowers along the lake, reindeer on a beach. 

To the University campus and Northern Norway Science Center planetarium. A film about the Northern Lights, stirring memories of our fabulous NL views in Iceland. Views from the Space Station offer a very distinctive perspective. A pretty flower garden outside near the bus. Past impressive modern library building. Tromso is known as "Gateway to the Arctic" and "Paris of the North." Both seem appropriate. Ann & Katie had less success with their tour; I'll leave that to Doug's report. 

 Gorgeous weather & sights as we depart. A narrow passage, snow-capped mountains close by, a swarm of white birds. So beautiful! Tonight's our last Midnight Sun, sun at its lowest at 1:10am. I get some photos around 11 but not enough energy to stay up. But I awaken after midnight, the sky just keeps getting more and more beautiful. Even a colorful boat coming alongside for a short time. More photo ops!

Friday, July 6: “At Sea Again” 

Low 50s, light rain on & off. In the news: EPA head Pruitt resigns amid "dozens of scandals;" US/China trade war beginning today. After my Fitness routine we all go to The Restaurant for breakfast, the waitstaff lined up to greet us. A quiet day to rest my shutter finger. Continuing south thru Norway's "Inside Passage," we're invited to "enjoy the generous amenities of your ship." Options include Bean Bag Toss Challenge and The Great Viking Cook-Off. But it seems enough to catch up with e-mail, read, and enjoy the pretty scenery thru the islands. Past a marker for crossing the Arctic Circle. Another Trivia Contest as Norway glides by: colorful buildings against the green mountains, a fish farm.

 During a cloudy PM, the Capt. lingers at one spot so we can see a mountain with a hole all the way thru. Tonight's dinner is our elegant dining #2: Manfredi's Italian Restaurant. For me: shimp & calamari, ravioli, porcheta a la romana, and tiramisu. So filling, even chocoholic Ann can't finish her wonderful chocolate dessert. During dinner we pass more urban, industrial areas than we've seen. After dinner I ask Guest Services about the boat I saw at 1am. She says it's to "take away troublemakers," and maybe now I'm on that list. Or maybe it was a pilot, as someone else said. 

Main entertainment tonight: Cruise Director Drew and Viking Band doing '60s & '70s rock. Intro by Ass't Cruise Director Ian who says Drew's girlfriend has just had their 1st child, so he'll have some time off when we get to Bergen. Ian says he'll especially appreciate that since he hasn't seen his girlfriend in over 10 months (chuckle, chuckle).  Another good show. They have good sound & lighting & set backgrounds for the shows. We're feeling more motion now and tomorrow morning, but not unpleasant. Maybe we're going faster in open water. At home, all the boys have arrived from Queens.

Saturday, July 7: “Wonders As I Wander” 

Some early rain, brightening a bit as we near Molde. Past striking glass-covered sail-shaped "Seilet" hotel next to the soccer stadium to dock right by the center of downtown. In the news: North Korea is backing away from Trump's claims about what was promised at their summit. 

Doug & Ann are venturing out on a Viking ship. I'm doing "Highlights of Molde" with guide Hodel. Mostly cloudy still but some breaks of sun. Very quiet downtown; "No one is up yet." This "Town of Roses" (roses & other flowers are everywhere!) has a population of 26K. Nopigeons here Hodel says, but plenty of seagulls. In WWII Norwegian King & gold were hidden here before transport to England; the Nazis bombed 2/3 of the town. There are many simple "funky" (functional) houses  ̶  pretty with lots of flowers. There are active housing associations. On to Molde Domkirke, the Lutheran Cathedral, with freestanding bell tower & a flowered terrace atop the Rathaus (City Hall). (See photos later when better conditions.) Hodel talks about the upcoming (on the 16th) Internat'l Jazz Festival held here since 1961; heaviest attendance was for Leonard Cohen. 

 On to Romsdal open-air museum, with 40 buildings, demos in some. We begin with some traditional dancing by a youthful quartet, plus some audience participation. Very sweet.

 Buildings have turf-covered roofs, spread around a pond. Tasty freshly-made flatbread with butter from one docent. A beautiful setting. It was good to get here early before a bunch of other buses arrive.

  

Continuing on, up, up, up past a ski jump to Varden viewpoint, 1300' above the town. Can't see all 222 peaks of the "Molde Panorama," but we can see a lot! Plus pretty little flowers, lichen, etc. among the rocks. Heading back to the ship Hodel gives info on work & holiday practices in Norway: 6 weeks vacation, "holiday pay." Spain, Greece, & Thailand are favorites for sunny holidays. Molde is a major producer of lutefisk (aka "fish in petroleum").

Back on the ship, lunch with Katie: a classic combo of beef bourguignone & pizza. Katie saw a full crew emergency drill this AM. I head back out to wander. A very pleasant PM  ̶  mostly sunny & plenty of blue sky, very comfy 60s and eventually 70s. Past the "House of Culture" (library & concert theater), Rathaus fronted by Rose Maiden sculpture. Church bells chime overhead. 

Better views of the Cathedral now with sun. I step inside to find a small wedding going on. 

 Then I redo some of the earlier photos of flower terraces & houses in better light. It's such a gorgeous afternoon, with photo ops all around! 

This has been the best port for wandering: docked by the center of town, easy on/off, free time; this is more like a river cruise. But no success finding shopping of interest to me.

A change into shorts until dinner (they do have some standards, sending at least one man away to change out of jeans for dinner). A view from our veranda of a pretty ferry going back & forth, other boats, mountains across the fjord  ̶  idyllic scenes on a perfect afternoon. Doug and Ann return after their enjoyable outing. Doug has gone into town, I join Ann & Katie for tea to tide us over until our 7:30 dinner reservation; tho, you know, we could have dinner at another venue before then . . . just sayin'. The guitarist accompanies tea by the pool. More beautiful views as we depart. Sun reflects off Seilet. It's impossible to capture the full beauty of the incredible 360° panorama!

A 2^nd dinner at Chef's Table for an Indian menu recommended by Katie: "La Route de Indes," inspired by the Silk and Spice Road. Again 5 courses, with wine pairings: carrot & cardamom cream, spicy tuna tataki, ginger & tarragon, beef tenderloin with 4 warm spices (and purple potatoes!), and apple delice tacon tarte tatin (butterscotch cake); and even the rolls have curry. Our servers teasingly instruct: "Don't lick the plates!" There's a certain amount of being a good sport for this meal; Ann in particular is not a fan of spicy or fish, but makes the best of it and we all have a good time. 

Up top for more fabulous views of the lowering sun and calm water. I chat with a man from Thailand now living in Houston. Then catch part of a show by Mary-Jess, English singer who won a Chinese "X Factor" contest; her set includes "At Last," bringing memories of Misty singing this at Matt & Anthea's wedding. More beautiful views  ̶  and the sun actually sets!  ̶  from our veranda to complete another wonderful day.

 Sunday, July 8: “Fab Fjords” 

 Awake at 3:30am, might as well check out sunrise. It's beautiful as we move slowly along the coast thru calm waters. The sun's rays spread along the mountains and catch the mountaintops on the other side. Not something you see every day. More Wow! views as we enter Geirangerfjord (a UNESCO World Heritage Natural Site), sun reflecting off waterfalls  ̶  "7 Sisters" & "Suitor" (or "Bachelor") across from each other. A small fishing boat is dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. The ship makes wavy patterns on the glassy water.

 Incredible green spilling down the sides and reflected in the water. Pretty seagulls fly about. Oh well, it's just your basic mountains/waterfalls/fjord for breakfast. 

We anchor just off the village pier, a short tender ride. (If it's "tender embarkation" shouldn't we get a hug & kiss? Just thinkin'.) Ann was such as good sport last night she gets to choose the breakfast venue. Another enjoyable meal at The Restaurant.

 I head into Geiranger. It's cool (Drew says 47) but nice sunshine and feels very comfy by 11. Geiranger has a permanent population of only 220, up to 800+ in summer when it's the 3rd largest cruise ship port in Norway, plus there are several hotels, places for campers & tents  ̶  as many as 10,000 visitors a day. And our cruise has its most adventuresome excursion options: Nordic walking, cycling, kayaking, jet boat, helicopter. I have a free AM to hike up to Geiranger Kyrkje (church  ̶  all quiet tho it's Sunday AM) for a wonderful view of the harbor, hike back down, hike back up even further on a Waterfall Walk (fossevandrieg). 

Whew, that's my workout for today! I happen upon Doug, Ann, & Katie. Past a "gingerbread house," so named by Ann due to its decorations, to a place offering hot "chocolate with a view." And it's DIY  ̶  you add chocolate chips to hot milk. Very tasty and a nice break; Ann buys some chocolate with chili & with licorice. Tender back to the ship for lunch  ̶  don’t miss a meal!

Doug & I head to our included "Eagles Bend Overlook & Panoramic Drive." Very busy now in the village: another cruise ship, several ferries & tenders crisscrossing, plenty of shops with trolls, gnomes, and tourists. Mostly cloudy but still clear, some hazy sun. Guide Hana in her 1^st year doing this, very sweet & eager. 

We leave on Eagle Rd, the only one kept open in winter; it's a National Tourist Road. Many hairpin turns, each has a name (e.g., storakersvingen, ekresvingen). And traffic jams! How does the driver know what's coming up or down? He says he's learned how to keep track of other traffic. 1st stop: Eagles Bend Overlook, 2000’ above the fjord. Beautiful panorama includes the "7 Sisters" (well, only 4 have water now). 

On to stop #2: Flydalsjuvet Viewpoint, overlooking farms in very green Flydal Valley. Continuing up past rustic cabins & waterfalls, above the tree line, dropping temps, and amid sizable snow patches (tho less than usual. when you can still ski or snowboard here). Hana: "That's my Dad on a bike!" They do half-marathons of biking & running up here. Stop #3: the high plateau area at Djupvatn Lake at 1,030 m. Interesting vegetation among the rocks, pretty ferns on hillsides. 

A final stop overlooking a 70 m deep canyon above the village. Starting to feel a bit jaded: one incredible panorama after another! Hana tells more about the area: a doctor visits here on Thursdays; hospital is 2 1/2 hours away (but quicker by helicopter if needed); dentist is 45 minutes away; this is the best forest for troll hunting. Our driver honks the horn as we pass Hana's parents & sister!

Tender back to the ship. Dinner at The Restaurant, highlighted by lobster thermidor. Ship's underway again, past waterfalls and a series of caves or mines. Rain & fog as we play Name That Tune with Beatles & ABBA music; our team is terrible, but it sets the stage for another entertaining musical show "The F-ABBA Four." Skies have mostly cleared after the show.

Monday, July 9: “Back to Bergen” 

 

A pretty early AM, clouds with sun rays angling down. In the news: Britain's "Brexit" minister quits; They've begun to evacuate boys from the Thai cave; Trump is about to announce his Supreme Court nominee. Low 50s, a bit misty coming into Bergen followed by another cruise ship. Pretty houses on shore, views of the harbor. Capt. backs us in to "parallel park" opposite another ship. Doug says I missed a highlight: a man in just a thong on the other ship taking a photo of us. We'll use a "jetway" to disembark. 
Ann & I do the optional “A Taste of Norwegian Farm Life.” Thumbs-up from guide Christina for fastening our seat belts. A short drive while she relates local info. Founded by a Viking king, Bergen was named by a travel magazine as "2^nd prettiest city in the world;" DK which city is 1^st. It's surrounded by 7 mountains, and there's a "7 Peaks" run; "We may be crazy, but you can't call us lazy." Past a very Norwegian sign for “Knut Knutson.” Thru 2 tunnels. Norway has some 900 tunnels; longest is 24.5 km between Oslo & Bergen. 

 Greeted at Ovre-Eide Gard ("area between lake & sea farm") by owner Arlen, a delightful man who gives a most enjoyable tour. First occupied in the 17th C, he's 5th generation to own this farm. This is one of a number of small farms around a pretty lake that provides some of the drinking water in the area; he says one "big" farm has 14 cows. Produce includes eggs & milk. Farmers are subsidized by North Sea oil revenue, so: "Help us. Drive as much as possible and ask for fuel from the North Sea." We learn about construction & upkeep of grass-roofed houses. I see a woman scribbling notes like I used to, and show her my digital voice recorder. Story of a child asked about rainy weather in Bergen: "Does it always rain in Bergen? I don't know, I'm only 8 years old." Beautiful fjord horses (one with interesting shaved mane), spel sheep, chickens & a cat. 

An incredible stone wall. Breaks of sun as we stop for raspberry or apple juice. Skol!. Arlen discusses taxes and benefits and other aspects of life in Norway, then a snack: coffee, tea, or hot chocolate plus (because he's also a baker!) a tasty selection of pastries. Ann: "This is a winner!" Then he and 2 women come out in colorful "national costumes," followed by some piano selections. Ann & I agree this is a wonderful way to conclude the trip!

Back aboard, a sloppy tasty Viking Burger at the Pool Grill for lunch while watching the busy port with ships & boats of all sizes. A crew member is also having lunch with his wife & 2 very young children; on a ship full of grandparents! It's looking like a gorgeous PM, I'll skip the included “Panoramic Bergen” tour to walk around on my own. 

Colorful buildings at World Heritage Site Bryggen wharf (an “office” in the Hanseatic trading empire of the 14^th-16^th C), the fish market, other views around the harbor. 

 Pedestrian area with flowers, gazebo, fountains  ̶  Oops, a misstep puts one foot into a fountain! Just a little embarrassing. 

 After a bit of searching I find the Cathedral only to discover construction barriers for restoration; at least the barriers have colorful decorations. Heading back toward the ship I find the nice place we ate from food stalls is now Starbucks in front and empty after. A very colorful tourist bus by the pier. An absolutely gorgeous afternoon & evening to finish off the trip.

One last dinner at World Cafe, and maybe my last desserts for quite a while! After packing and putting my bag outside the door as requested, out for a last stroll. Across the street to pretty Bergenhus Festning (one of the oldest and best preserved stone fortifications in Norway. Brilliant colors in the harbor. Back to hear pianist Nora playing "Bolero." I tell her that's a special memory from when Matt was just starting out in percussion. Since Doug, Ann, & Katie leave very early in the morning I say my goodbyes now.

Tuesday, July 10: “Disembarking”

I awake to find my group has departed. My flight is much later, but I have to be out of the room by 8:00, disembark at 9:30, so I should be plenty early to the airport. Staff busy washing down all the decks, cleaning rooms, etc. for the next sailing beginning this afternoon. Up top for a last beautiful AM photo. 

Disembarking I find I’ll have one more souvenir: the room key card that has been a constant companion going off and on the ship. Viking staff are arrayed along to get our luggage & bus, plus orient us to Bergen Lufthavn Festland. I’m joined by Bruce & Jean; their Bergen to Oslo flight is shortly after mine, but I enjoy our joint efforts to figure out self-check-in & bag drop procedures. We’re settled in by 11:30 for our 3:00/3:30 flights. Time to snack & chat, and I find some distinctive Norwegian brown cheese to take home. 

Only a 30 minute flight, Oslo airport much busier. Thru Passport Control again, then a long line to get into the gate. I’m directed to a separate line for additional security questions: Where were you visiting and when? Whose bags do you have? Who packed them? I pass the tests. 

Beautiful weather in both Bergen & Oslo, both takeoffs on-time with pretty views of countryside. The 7 hour, 15 minute flight time to JFK takes us over Iceland, Greenland (beautiful snow-capped mountains!), and Newfoundland. On-time arrival at 8pm. A bit of time going thru customs & collecting my checked bag. Then Most Wonderful Son Matt picks me up and drives me to Marlene’s and my car in Poughkeepsie. Maybe he’s just lonely  ̶  daughter-in-law Anthea is herding the Metropolitan Youth Orchestra around Europe (she’s Executive Director), his boys are with Grandma in Albany. A drive to Albany, a couple of stops to stay alert, home at 1am. A “tender embarkation” with Marjorie!

A footnote: The following March an identical ship, Viking Star, on a similar itinerary encountered rough seas and engine failure near the rocky Norway coast. Nearly 500 passengers were airlifted by helicopter before weather improved and the ship was towed to Molde. Well, that would have been exciting and some unusual photo ops!

          This was another wonderful “Viking experience”! As usual, everything was well-organized, any glitches were handled well, and it’s a treat to be taken care of and pampered at every turn. The ship was not so big as to be overwhelming. Excellent, diverse food offerings & dining venues. Lectures & educational programs didn't catch my interest, but good entertainment options & excellent music programming  thruout the ship. Weather better than we could have hoped for  ̶  it was clear from our guides that our weather was unusually good  ̶  and even the periods of low clouds & fog added to the "atmosphere." Pool area certainly had more business than I expected. Plus the sailing was so smooth! No worries about motion sickness.

It's been great traveling with the Other Wards. It was very generous of Doug to invite me. Takk skal du ha! I did manage to go behind his back to chip in by covering tips for out 2 staterooms. I missed Marjorie  ̶  in that regard this trip was too long & too far, occasional e-mails not enough to make up for the absence of my best travel companion.

How does ocean cruising compare with river cruising? Partly it’s a matter of scale. The much larger ocean ship is interesting in its own right, lots of different spaces to explore, different dining options and venues, a variety of entertainment. But I missed the intimacy of river cruising, getting to know other passengers better because you encounter the same people more regularly.  Ocean cruises, at least this one, entail grander, more panoramic sights  ̶  the mountains, fjords, and ports, and vistas at sea. But again, river cruises have a more intimate feel to the ports, and I missed the greater opportunities to explore places on my own. The excursions were all interesting, with more choices than for a smaller river ship group, but things were more scheduled with less “free time.” Nonetheless, it was a vidunderlig reise!