Bucks & Lancaster Counties PA

Pennsylvania Reprises

Bucks & Lancaster Counties & Longwood Gardens

May-June 2018 

          We’re returning to areas of Eastern Pennsylvania visited on previous trips: Pennsylvania Dutch country around Lancaster with Marjorie’s Mom Win and our then-little Matt in 1983, Bucks County (after stays in Cape May & Philadelphia) with M’s Uncle Bill in 1996, plus Longwood Gardens both times. And another reprise: friend Marlene, a fine trip companion to the Smokies in Fall 2016, is joining us again. We schedule after Marlene and my Spring choral schedules are completed. Looking for lodging on Airbnb we’re enticed by “River Retreat: a Piece of Heaven.” On the Delaware River near Stockton NJ (across from Bucks County), we’ll have the entire ground floor (hosts Patricia & hubbie live on the 2^nd floor) with 2 bedrooms, kitchen, and porch looking onto the river. Sounds like a lovely base of operations. This will be the 1^st of a busy schedule of Summer & Fall trips, plenty of journal & photo ops for my blog.

          Some busy time before we head out. Marjorie has a couple of days in NYC highlighted by a fascinating show by illusionist Derek DelGaudio, “In and of Itself,” with Matt playing an unexpected role, and “Boys in the Band” with M fav Jim Parsons. Then the weekend before our trip Marlene comes up for my Mendelssohn Club concert. She’s an accomplished singer, and I’m honored she pronounces the concert “excellent,” with special kudos for my basses in “Down in the Valley.” Marlene also gives me some tips on learning Britten’s “War Requiem,” a beastly challenging work I’ve been rehearsing as a “guest” singer with Albany ProMusica for a Fall concert with the Albany Symphony. She stays until Sunday for a Mass celebrating the 50^th anniversary of our Fr. Farano’s ordination; lots more music with the choir.

          But I digress. After a typical Memorial Day (5/28) of lawnmowing and other yard and garden work (we learn Marlene was doing the same), an early dinner and a lovely evening drive down to stay overnight with Marlene in Poughkeepsie.

Tuesday, May 29: “Tiles, Tiles, and More Tiles”

          1^st photo: Marlene’s rhododendron in pretty AM light. Out early after breakfast to hit the road for a 2½  hour (140 miles) drive to Doylestown PA. A huge traffic jam going into Poughkeepsie but a smooth ride for us. A stop for gas in NJ, where you can’t pump your own! Past a Golf Museum, but no interest from the ladies. Over the Delaware River into PA, beautiful stone buildings & walls, pretty farms. 

          Too early for our tour reservation at Fonthill Castle (former home of archeologist and tilemaker Henry Mercer), so we start at the Moravian Pottery & Tile Works nearby on the pretty grounds. A "working history" museum where handmade Moravian tiles are still produced in a similar manner to Mercer during the American Arts & Crafts Movement of the turn of the 19^th-20^th C, using his original molds. The gift shop has many different styles; M & M find some to buy. 

Into a large dark high-ceiling room with walls full of tiles and artifacts for a short video on the history and methods of tilemaking. 

Then a very interesting tour, including Juliana’s demo of tilemaking. One current project: 19,800 tiles for a floor at Bryn Mawr College; and there are only 4 workers here! More exploring, down into the clay pit (very Edgar Allen Poe!). The spires and tiles remind us of Gaudi buildings in Barcelona. A wonderful start to the trip.

          We continue to Fonthill Castle, a National Historic Landmark with more than 44 rooms, 18 fireplaces and 200 windows; an eclectic mix of Medieval, Gothic, and Byzantine architectural styles. The house is constructed of poured reinforced concrete, including the roof and much of the furniture. 

A very interesting 1-hour+ tour. Mercer was a rather odd fellow whose varying interests and meanderings were bankrolled by his rich Aunt Lela. He finally found his calling with tilemaking. Beautiful tiles, both original and collected from around the world, are everywhere: walls, ceilings, even risers of stairs! Many of the tiles tell stories and history. One ceiling is a recreation of Mexico City in Montezuma’s time, another focuses on Columbus. More dark spooky Edgar Allen Poe spaces. The guide takes us into a room and onto a terrace not usually included; guess we’re a good group. 

A short drive to the National Shrine of our Lady of Czestochowa, dedicated in 1966 to celebrate 1,000 years of Christianity in Poland. First sight: a tall statue of Pope John Paul. Hunger is overtaking us (Marjorie is getting "cranky"), but the cafeteria is closed, so snacks from the trunk to tide us over. We look into the main sanctuary highlighted by beautiful windows. 

 

A pretty drive (well, they’re mostly all pretty around here!), more lovely houses & farms, to our B&B. It’s at the end of a long gravel road with rather foreboding signs at the beginning (“Private! Dead End!). 

The “River Retreat” is described as follows: “When you step on your porch the river and surrounding property will take your breath away. We have a huge variety of birds, beavers, foxes, deer and many more. Walk to the river, trails.” It doesn’t disappoint. 

We’re greeted by friendly resident cat Dorothy. Nice-sized bedrooms, living & dining areas, kitchen with fridge, microwave & burners, dishwasher, and ample dishes. 

Hostess Patricia has followed up on her promise to “always bake something for my guests” with yummy pistachio pound cake (and Marjorie’s happy to see a loaf of “Dave’s Killer Bread” in the freezer). Sheets of helpful information, dining tips, etc.

Following our hosts’ recommendation, we head south along the river for dinner in Lambertville (“our favorite strolling street”). Like so many towns here, pretty houses with nicely-decorated porches. Marjorie expects to see Prof. Harold Hill and his marching band. A sign in multiple languages: “Hate Has No Home Here” (the same sign is also outside our B&B and in other towns). 

Dinner at Bell’s Tavern, a nice neighborhood spot with very friendly bartender & waitress, excellent food. Tuesday specials include all-you-can-eat spaghetti and a ½-price bottle of wine we share. Leftovers to take with us for another night, too full for dessert  ̶  but we’ll be back!

An after-dinner stroll to a pedestrian bridge over the river at Bull’s Island as the sun is setting. After we’ve all gone to bed I awake to an idyllic view from the porch of a nearly full moon over the river.

Wednesday, May 30: “Fowl and Flowers” 

          A very foggy morning. I’m up early for photos along the river, pretty flowers in the yard. In the news today: “Roseanne” has been cancelled due to the star’s racist tweets; lava still flowing in Hawaii; Trump’s North Korea meeting still up in the air.  

Some good news: What we thought might be a duck trapped by something in the river can now be seen to be a buoy. And our shoreline is home to 3 families of geese, each with 6 little ones of varying ages. Breakfast today and most days is a mix of Marlene’s granola, Dave’s Bread, and fruit. Today’s highlight is Longwood Gardens, with a “timed ticket” for 10:30. Another pretty drive: stone houses that are all around here, pretty decorated porches, tidy farms, enormous rhododendron. But it can be slow going, 2+ hours to go 70 miles. The 2-lane roads lack capacity to handle AM & PM rush hour traffic. 

Longwood Gardens has a long history, from a Quaker farmer in the 1700s, to his greatgrandsons creating an arboretum to preserve the area from lumbering, to businessman/philanthropist Pierre du Pont’s purchase in 1906 and eventual creation of one of the country’s leading horticultural display gardens. The 1,077 acres include varied outdoor gardens, from formal to naturalistic, and indoor gardens within a 4.5 acre Conservatory with 4,600 different plants and trees.

We start with the topiary garden, then M & M study roses with one of the volunteer gardeners. After wandering a bit we rendezvous to watch a “Festival of Fountains” show. Later in the week the fountains are illuminated at night with music, but we opted to avoid likely crowds and an iffy weather forecast. 

The many fountains spread across a section of the gardens give a narrated performance choreographed with music (e.g., Louis Armstrong’s ♫What a Wonderful World♫). A group of young children dance around on the grass. Quite a nice show; Marjorie: “This is better than Versailles!” 

To a nearby ballroom for an unexpected concert by an automated Aeolian pipe organ. A gallery behind it has exhibits about pipe organs and shows some of the 10,010 pipes! Time for lunch. 

But first to the Green Wall at the entryway to bathrooms, voted America’s Best Restroom in 2014. Relaxation at the pleasant cafeteria: tasty calzone, French dip, pastries.

A nice day as we continue thru the gardens: cloudy but not humid, about 75°, not at all crowded. 

 

 

To the Peirce-du Pont House dating from 1730. An interesting video. Pierre seems to have been a fine fellow, and gave parties with entertainment ranging from John Philip Sousa’s band to “6 dancing nymphs.” 

Along a path with especially beautiful trees and rhododendron (and all the pathways thru the grounds are lovely) to the Italian Water Garden. Altogether we’ve pretty well covered the gardens in 4 hours, except for some outer areas. Some mist as we head out. Then it becomes warmer and more humid.

A stop at Giant for some grocery supplies. After some searching we find Paxson Hill Farm Nursery & Gardens. Greeted by a big friendly dog, colorful peacocks wandering about, one poses for me. A nice nursery plus gardens with some sculptures to walk thru. Back “home” to relax with wine & cheese, last night’s yummy leftovers for dinner.

Thursday, May 31: “Dutch Treats”

          Up early again on a misty AM, I drive to a historic area at the edge of Stockton with a grist mill and galleries. Today takes us west to Lancaster and Pennsylvania Dutch country, which refers to a cultural group formed by early German-speaking immigrants and their descendants. They include a number of religious affiliations, including Lutheran, Mennonites, and Amish. 

Some GPS confusion and another slow drive until a stretch of the PA Turnpike. A service area has colorful classic cars headed to a show. A billboard touts “Jesus: Live on Stage.” Imagine that! Sign in front of a Friends meetinghouse: “#Love Thy Neighbor (No Exceptions).”

          To Landis Valley Village and Farm Museum, a “living history” complex of buildings about Pennsylvania Dutch culture, a mix of self-guided and docents demonstrating crafts. A cloudy and comfortable (low 70s) day. First stop the tavern to learn about cooking. Then a particularly interesting demo of skilled craftsmanship to make the Pennsylvania long rifle. 

 Another building shows scherenschnitte, beautifully intricate “scissors cutting.” The docents all go to lunch at noon, so we poke around the nice shop with displays of the various crafts, including belsnickels, a troll-like Christmas figure. 

 We continue to explore the variety of buildings, 

including an old schoolhouse with the schoolmarm calling a group of visiting children to school.

          We then follow up on two staff suggestions. First to Oregon Dairy, a “Dairy of Distinction,” for excellent ice cream treats on a colorful terrace. 

Then to Lititz, an especially pretty town with (M & M are excited to hear) very nice shops. 

I’m especially taken with “Ewebiquitous,” a colorful fabric shop with a decidedly "sheepish" theme. 

M & M find metal sculptures at “Zum Anker Alley” (Marjorie an owl “that will be happy in our garden”) to decorate their gardens. This was a great tip! Marlene: “This is one totally neat town!”

          Some late day misting again and slow traffic as we head off for a special dinner. Marlene wanted to treat us on the 60^th anniversary of her marriage to Frank, who sadly passed away in 2014, and her research led to a nice Spanish place (Pennsylvania Spanish?  ̶  it actually seems pretty common here), El Serrano Restaurante. We arrive just as they open for dinner. A pretty place, nice music, good choices of Spanish, Peruvian, and Mexican dishes. We toast Frank  ̶  “One of the good guys!”  ̶  and  enjoy excellent 3-course meals. One more stop at a Good Will store. A little rain but a much better drive back home. Marlene shares some “El Cubano” candy she bought for a late-night treat, and shares memories of her honeymoon with Frank that included a short trip to Havana 6 months before Castro’s takeover.

Friday, June 1: “Crossings and Meanderings”

Another foggy AM, and I’m up early as usual. A short drive to a canal park overlooking old bridge supports and colorful kayaks & canoes on the opposite shore. More TV news: Now Samantha Bee is under fire for her off-color comment about Ivanka Trump. To ward off hunger Marlene packs some snacks in her “Cranky Bag” (see 5/29 for why it's so named), and we head south on pretty River Road after passing a flock of turkey vultures on the B&B access road. 

The ladies ogle shops as we pass thru New Hope to visit 2 sections of Washington Crossing Historic Park. Marjorie is skeptical that this is the exact spot he crossed, but we enjoy some misty atmospheric views. And altho the Visitor Center is not yet open, friendly Diane comes out to greet us with information booklets. 

We're eyed by a curious sheep, and spot a swan along the river.

We continue on thru Yardley, yet another pretty town full of flags along the road, in yards, on porches and storefronts.

A stop at Pennsbury Manor, a reconstruction of William Penn’s 17^th C estate along the river. Still cloudy but no rain, muggy but not hot. The 43-acre plantation includes manor house with period furnishings, various outbuildings, livestock, gardens. Good thing we weren’t here yesterday, when 1,900 schoolchildren visited! First to the stables where we meet Bill the Bull and have an informative chat with a staffer about the complexities and challenges of maintaining such a place. A look into an old cemetery, 

nice views along the river (with a waste treatment plant looming further along the shore), kitchen garden (that needs weeding). 

Back to the Visitor Center for a nice exhibit on William Penn. He was a champion of religious tolerance, diversity, and the voice of people in government . . . but also a slaveholder. 

Hazy sun, warmer and muggier as we take a guided tour. Pretty rooms in the manor house with mannequins to show the fashions of the time. They’re still working on servants’ quarters on the 3^rd floor.

We get a tip for lunch in Yardley. After some “Adventures in GPS” (including being directed thru a mall parking lot!) we finally find Vault Brewing Company with good pizza, sandwiches, and local brews. A stop at Bowman Tower, atop a thick forested hill. But the elevator isn’t working, and $7 to climb 124 steps in hazy steamier sun now (86°) doesn’t get any takers. And New Hope shops prove disappointing. Then Oops!, I left my credit card at lunch; I go back for it after dropping off the ladies.

 When I return we head to Peddler’s Village, an upscale landscaped area of shops we’ve passed several times (Marjorie taking note of the “Giggleberry Fair” family fun spot). The main area includes a pretty village green and gazebo, flowers and pond. I continue to be unsuccessful in my search for a Bucks County magnet for my collection (did find one for Lancaster). We learn that Longwood Gardens has cancelled a big wine and music festival tomorrow due to threat of storms. Hope we don’t get any. Back home for a light dinner of grilled cheese, cole slaw, and fruit.

Saturday, June 2: “Literary and Artistic Gems” 

          A brighter AM, no fog (or sign of storms). My early AM outing takes me on a walk thru beautiful dense woods along a tow path near the B&B, part of the Delaware & Raritan Canal State Park. 

And pretty views of the house and along the river. 

To Patricia’s recommended Frenchtown Café for breakfast, in bright sun! Another pretty town and the perfect neighborhood breakfast spot, even an appropriately sassy waitress (asked what’s good, she replies: “I’m too old to work in a place where the food isn’t good!”). I have yummy Linzer French toast with sour cream and warm raspberry jam, others have Swiss eggs and crabcake Benedict (tho they forgot the eggs at first!).

          Off to the Pearl S. Buck House, a National Historic Landmark on a 68-acre estate. Pretty grounds with flower gardens and sculptures. Marlene buys some yellow canna tubers for her garden. 

Exhibits include “Festivals of Mexico” photos, her Pulitzer and Nobel Prizes, and an array of colorful honorary doctoral hoods. 

A fascinating tour. She led a remarkable life, from her writings based in China to helping local farmers during the Depression and starting a foundation for “unadoptable” AmerAsian children. The house is as it was when she died, including her work space, items in bathroom medicine cabinets, and clothes in closets. How many of us would want people wandering thru our homes “as is”?

          Then into Doylestown again and the James A. Michener Art Museum. Located in a former county jail across from the large Mercer Museum (exhibiting “everyday objects” not so interesting to us), colorful sculptures outside. Some relaxation with iced tea and scones in the small café. A manageable place with good variety of exhibits: highlighting Pennsylvania and Bucks County artists, along with photos, furniture (including a Nagashima Reading Room), 

and more. One painting shows a scene from Kingston NY (near Marlene). They’re setting up for a wedding later in an outdoor area. Fingers crossed  ̶  it’s clouding up with some thunder as we leave, passing by dressed up wedding party folks.

          One more stop: Good Stuff Thrift, which we’ve passed several times. M & M give it two thumbs up for selection and ambience, and the shop supports 3 children’s charities. There are even Mercer tiles around a fireplace. I go to a strip mall next door looking for a magnet. Into a drug store where the friendly pharmacist asks what I’m looking for. He tries to help but can’t find anything with a tourist theme, then digs around under a counter to give me a Whitman Pharmacy magnet. So my magnet quest is complete, with a good backstory! Back to the B&B, a noisy welcome from Dorothy. Cooler now, mid-70s. And we’re seeing more boats in the river, which has seemed surprisingly quiet.

          Back to Bell’s Tavern for dinner on a nice evening; the storms didn’t pan out. Marlene is especially pleased with their calamari. And we enjoy the desserts we passed on the other night: warm bread pudding and Key lime pie. We drive back thru Lambertville, really hoppin’ on a Saturday night! 

M & M poke around the seemingly abandoned Stockton Inn, dark but still furnished. Back home, we finally meet friendly hostess Patricia, after a number of helpful texts back and forth.

Sunday, June 3: “Goin’ Home” 

           Cloudy but clear AM, a bit chilly (low 60s). I drive around early looking for covered bridges without much luck, but pretty farms and I find the 1740 House where we stayed in 1996; and a “Cat Crossing” sign to add to the “Duck Crossing” sign we saw. I "get my gospel on" listening to the radio: the bouncy ♫Soon I will be done a wid de troubles of de world♫ (which I’ve sung with the Mendelssohn Club), and lovely ♫Like the dew in the morning, may He rest upon your head♫ In the news: Our allies and economic partners are critical of Trump’s tariffs. 

  

 We head to Mass nearby at small St. Agnes Church, with a priest from India and a capella cantor with a lovely voice. 

Then it’s back to Frenchtown Café. On the way we get a view of our B&B from the other side of the river. And have to take a convoluted detour thru another lush dark forest; this time our GPS “Penelope” helps us find our way. Frenchtown is very busy, shops open. A short wait for a table, allowing M & M some shopping time; “Olive with a Twist” gets some action from them. We get “our” waitress again for a filling brunch.

          Heading north, we pass a farm with sheep dogs apparently being trained. A pretty afternoon, partly sunny. We make good time but so boring that Marjorie plays with different GPS voices. 2½ hours to Poughkeepsie. We admire Marlene’s garden, then head to Albany in time for me to mow the lawn again! And we’re returning to a very busy week: Carlos Agreda, new Music Director of the Empire State Youth Orchestra, will be our house guest while he looks for a car and place to live, and Matt will be here while he’s in a music festival at Skidmore. Views of the Catskills along the Thruway to complete our journey.

A wonderful trip! A lot of beauty and history packed into a small area. We were able to do most things on the “to do” list, and a number of places offered more than expected. The B&B was comfy and scenic. Hostess Patricia was very helpful and responsive to texted questions. Lots of good food. Weather was good  ̶  some rain & fog, but didn’t get in the way and gave an “atmospheric” look, clouds reduced heat and humidity some days. Marlene was again a delightful travel companion and very flexible (“I was trained by 6 kids”).