Vietnam

Visiting Vietnam

March 2016

Vietnam? Really? That’s a common response to our trip. What led us to travel to Vietnam? The Socialist Republic of Vietnam has a complicated history for Americans, considering the war and anti-war protests during our own youth. During my 1^st year of graduate school at Wisconsin, in the midst of anti-war protests (I remember the National Guard marching down Johnson St. in Madison lobbing tear gas!), I was fortunate to get a high “score” on the draft lottery. So I didn’t personally face the difficult decisions and experiences of many of my peers. Many years later, images of Vietnam are much different.  And it offers a beautiful & exotic opportunity to visit a very different culture. We’ve been to Asia geographically, 2 trips to Turkey crossed the Bosporus into “Asia Minor,” but that didn’t seem a truly Asian experience. Travel to China raises concerns both political and environmental. So we were attracted by a “12 Day Classic Vietnam” tour offered by Gate1, a company with which we’ve had excellent travel experiences both independent & escorted (5 previous Gate1 for me, 4 for Marjorie). The itinerary looked excellent, though some of the history noted above was reflected in a cautionary note that some might be uncomfortable doing an optional tour thru a tunnel network built by the Viet Cong; we skipped it. Vietnam seems a popular and welcoming destination: friends Don & Lyla recently returned w/ some tips on sights, shopping, and restaurants; my student I-Hsin has also traveled in the area; and we’ve heard good things from others. Son Matt gave us Traveler & Fodor’s books for help w/ planning.

Similar to a trip w/ my brother to Brazil & Argentina in 2013, some pre-trip preparations were needed. Vietnam requires a visa and the CDC recommends precautionary vaccinations for Hepatitis A & Typhoid. Plus precautionary probiotics and other meds for any intestinal issues. Since Vietnam is 1000+ miles long (tho only 30 miles wide at its narrowest), planning & packing had to take into account different tropical & subtropical climates in north & south. Early March looks to offer a balance of drier and cooler (hopefully). Since this is a longer trip than usual, we’ve arranged for a “house-sitter”: a woman caring for cats next door while neighbors are away will bring in our mail & newspapers and make sure all is OK.

It took some calculating to get our minds around the timing in our trip: time zones (Taipei 13 hours ahead of NY, Vietnam 1 hour earlier than Taiwan), flight time (16 hours to Taipei!), crossing the Internat’l Date Line. Suffice to say, we’ll leave home Tuesday March 2 for a March 3 early AM flight from JFK scheduled to arrive Thursday March 4. We’re flying EVA Air, based in Taiwan; I-Hsin travels this airline to see family. Marjorie has particular concern about the long flight, earmarking earnings from part-time work at the airport museum shop “Departures” to upgrade to more comfy seating; she generously shares with me. Business Class still way too costly, but Premium Economy seemed worth the extra cost (especially when M learned EVA calls this “Elite”  ̶  we’ll see what that means).  And then there’s the currency: the Dong (vnd), $100=2.2 million vnd! While there we never see any coins, bills from 500,000 (about $25) to 1000 ($.05). We’ve been advised to take a supply of crisp $20 bills, which shopkeepers often prefer but not if wrinkled or written on.

Tuesday, March 1- Thursday March 3: “Are We There Yet?”

          We looked into ride options to JFK, but the regular shuttle from Albany didn’t fit our schedule and limo service costs way too much. So we opted to drive ourselves as usual and park the car (Airpark JFK); due to our late return, also reserved an overnight at Comfort Inn JFK to get some sleep before driving back home. (We used the same parking-hotel combo, conveniently next to each other, for our 11/14 Disney World trip.)  Marjorie’s loaded up 21^st C devices: iPod for listening, Kindle for reading (finally got around to putting some things on it after . . . well, we won’t mention how long we’ve had it!).

          A winter storm watch tonight for Adirondacks & Berkshires  ̶  just a reminder of what we’re leaving. We’re also missing the “Super Tuesday” Presidential primary excitement (tho we’re happy to get away from all of the nonsense this year!). Uneventful ride down, picnicking on grapes & cheese sticks. We ignore our GPS entreaties to go thru New Jersey. M is happy to let me drive thru NYC, impressive as always at night.

          Our 12:20am (Wed.) EVA flight is on time. “Elite” seats warrant separate “VIP” check-in and security lines, which seems promising. There are 3 “cabins”: Business Class, Elite, and Economy. Seats in Elite are definitely worth it: fewer and wider seats w/ greater reclining, amenities like toiletries, slippers, premium headsets. Plus our cabin is less than half full, so I move to give us both more space. Cute animated video instructions. Following I suppose a “great circle” route, we head north to Canada, then over Alaska, skirting past Siberia & Japan. A substantial meal w/ “Refreshing Wet Towels” and wine an hour after takeoff, warm ham & cheese sandwich w/ apple 7 hours into the flight (over Alaska), sizable breakfast as we pass Japan. Plus frequent bottled water & juice. M seems quite comfortable, getting some sleep, not much sleep for me but otherwise pretty comfy. Mints passed out at the end. On-time to Taipei (Taiwan) at 5:30am (Thursday now). We survived the long flight, M seems almost perky! ☺ But still another 8 hours to Vietnam: layover here + another flight.   Taiwan Taoyuan Internat’l Airport seems like a shiny colorful shopping mall w/ especially pretty stores and decorated gate areas. 

One area dedicated to “Hello Kitty” store & gate decorations, even the plane at the gate is decorated w/ Hello Kitty images! We’re disappointed our United Lounge passes don’t get us into the EVA Lounge, tho they are partners  . . . but wait, there’s good news coming.

Hazy sun as we board for our 9:10 flight, but there are “seat issues” . . . and we’re bumped to Business Class! Hot towels and wine when we board. And, of course, a lovely 3-course meal beginning w/ smoked duck in our “nests.” Flight takes us south between Kowloon & Manila, pretty views of clouds and coast as we approach Ho Chi Minh City (was Saigon), Tan Son Nhat Internat’l Airport. Can’t help but think of American soldiers arriving to these beautiful, tranquil views. Sunny, mid-90s. We meet up w/ a small part of our group, and a “small world” experience: the 1^st person we meet (Dawn) is the daughter of a retired UAlbany professor! We also meet our Tour Manager/Guide Tuyen (Doanh Tuyen Tran), who gives some initial orientation. 

Into the city, largest in Vietnam at 10 million, 1^st views of the many motorbikes in cities here. Many of the riders, especially women, wear masks. Asked about this later in the trip, Tuyen attributes it to a preference for pale skin and avoiding sun exposure; but it seems likely avoiding germs and pollution may be at least part of it. 

To our Paragon Saigon Hotel, located w/in short walks of major sites. 

 After settling in, Marjorie naps while I stroll w/ some fellow tourists. They’re headed to the War Remnants Museum, I opt to wander, taking in the sights & sounds (and photo ops, of course!). Beautiful old buildings w/ shops at ground level, motorbikes parked all along sidewalks, flowers spilling down from balconies above. Contrasts here and elsewhere between old & new, rich & poor, resort & rural remind me of Rio. Lots of traffic and horn-honking. As Don & Lyla warned, intersections are an adventure for pedestrians; motorbikes seem to follow their own rules (or none at all). We learn to be resolute but cautious in wading into traffic w/o much protection from lights or crosswalks! 

Street entrepreneurs offer to clean my sneakers. I look into the large indoor Ben Thanh Market w/ very crowded lanes, too hot in the afternoon. 

Beautiful views of the ornate People’s Committee Building (formerly the French Hotel de Ville). Nearby statue of Ho Chi Minh overlooks a long promenade w/ lovely flowers.

To guide-recommended  Hoa Tuc for a 1^st Vietnamese dinner. An excellent meal, probably our most expensive (640,000 vnd, about $32). Then some wandering, the city looks very different at night. Past shops w/ incredibly intricate model sailing ships. To Ben Thanh Market, moved to outside stalls at night and much more comfortable temps now. “Madame” (as vendors greet her) M has successful 1^st haggling, for intricate paper sculpture greetings cards and decorated fans. 

In the news today: Martin Crowe (cousin of actor Russell Crowe), one of the greatest cricket “batsmen,” has died; Korea fires missiles to express unhappiness w/ UN sanctions. Here as in other hotels a lobby computer enables us to keep up with our e-mails.

Friday, March 4: “Good morning, Vietnam!”

 We’re channeling Robin Williams; or, as Tuyen greets us energetically every day, xin chao! (which seems an all-purpose greeting). Our 1^st buffet breakfast, very diverse: cereal, eggs, rice, chicken curry, soups, sushi, bakery, flan, etc. Then an orientation meeting. Our group numbers 35, mostly Americans, a few Canadians, 1 Norwegian (Arne, married to Wisconsinite Sharon); a few military vets; a woman who left Vietnam 40 years ago at 18. A number of Gate1 vets, like us. Mostly gray hair, but a few young folks: 2 young women traveling together, a young married couple, Dawn here w/ her daughter Aliyah as an upcoming HS graduation gift. (Dawn & Aliyah became sort of our tour “besties;” it was delightful spending time w/ them, tho not w/o some issues. Talking with Aliyah about her forthcoming college years I advised her to remember that professors are always right; her reply: “Good thing you’re retired!” I told her that was going into my journal. Such impertinence aside, she impressed us as poised and mature beyond her years, not at all intimidated when surrounded by “elders.”) Tuyen gives a 1^st vocabulary lesson: oi troi oi means “oh my god” (or some such exclamation). 

More seriously, his narratives offer considerable information about the culture and history of Vietnam (only bits of which I’ll try to reconstruct here). One theme is the need to understand the many war experiences of the Vietnamese w/ the French, Chinese, Japanese, and Americans. Tuyen gives a very balanced view; e.g., discussion of postwar propaganda and the plight of “mixed children” fathered by American soldiers. Over time we will also learn more about Tuyen himself. He was the 1^st Gate1 guide here 14 years ago, lives in Hanoi w/ wife and 2 young sons (4 & 8).

First time on the bus. Between the bus and hotels we’re kept well-supplied w/ bottled water (advisable here even in good hotels and restaurants). Past the ornate Saigon Opera House (built w/ materials imported from France) and pretty park next to it, construction for the 1^st metro train funded w/ Japanese investment. 

Among new buildings, Tuyen points out the site of iconic “Fall of Saigon” photo from 1975 of helicopter extracting people from the roof of a CIA building (not the US Embassy as often thought, he notes); it now has a skyscraper symbolically looming above. Marjorie & I think of my former student CN whose family left during those chaotic days. We drive thru lots of green: pretty parks & promenades, flowering trees & shrubs.

  Into the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, rather dark plain interior, and the nearby Central Post Office with impressive hall: a map of “Indochina” and large portrait of Ho Chi Minh. A number of bridal couples having photos taken around the plaza here. Colorful school groups.  

Street vendors everywhere. Motorbikes galore, some carrying entire families! Tuyen seems like Moses parting the motorbikes to get us all across streets. A stop to see the pretty exterior of the Reconciliation (or Independence) Palace. 

Into a lacquerware factory w/ explanation of the steps in this traditional handicraft and a beautiful showroom. Passing the American consulate Tuyen discusses the changing diplomatic situation and 1994 “normalization” under Bill Clinton, who’s very popular here. Light lunch at the hotel, a good day for a cold local beer (in the 90s and quite humid).

M & I take a bit of a hike to the History Museum. It’s hot w/ no AC so we don’t linger, but buy a magnet for my collection and pretty bookmarks at the museum shop. Across the way the beautiful Hung King Temple (no pun intended) (Den Tol Vua Hung) overlooks a zoo and botanical garden. 

   

Here and other cities, as well as on our drives thru the countryside, are many beautiful buildings, some older but still picturesque, colorful billboards & posters. 

 

Schools and day-care centers have particularly bright exterior decorations. 

Also, we see many shrines in front of buildings and houses, whether in cities or rural areas, often surrounded by motorbikes and clutter. Tuyen says one is for the god of the land, others may be added for departed family.

Into a recommended bakery for some goodies and drinks for less than $5  ̶  things are generally quite inexpensive here. Then M & I walk back to the Opera House for a wonderful, entertaining, amusing acrobatic “A O Show.” Friendly young staffers help us pick out the least-expensive “aah!” seats (vs. “ooh!” or “wow!” seats), giving good views from the 2^nd floor. A mix of dance and gymnastics (a sort of Cirque du Saigon), using large bamboo baskets & poles. Oi troi oi!! Grandsons William & Miles would love this! We buy a t-shirt for dancer Miles. 

A light dinner back at the hotel to complete a wonderful 1^st full day. In the news: establishment Republicans are still trying to figure out how to bring down Donald Trump candidacy.

Saturday, March 5: “Ancient Markets, Golden Lanterns, & Black Teeth”  

          Another hazy, sunny day. Today we fly to Danang (Tuyen tells us local usage for place names often is 2 words, like Da Nang or Ha Noi, but “tourist” usage is one word), then bus to Hoi An. Maybe a bit cooler today; Danang forecast is low 80s. As usual on our travels I’m up way too early, but get some nice photo ops from the 12^th floor rooftop pool. We board the bus for the airport, crossing paths (as we do a couple of places) w/ another Gate1 group. Vendors waiting by the bus to sell t-shirts. Today’s phrase: anh yieu em means “I love you.” Interesting views along the road, many motorbikes. Tuyen outlines today & tomorrow on the bus (and gives us printed itineraries for 2 days at a time including scheduled wakeup calls, which we always beat). He says today will be an “impotent flight,” up & down quickly, shepherds us thru check-in and security. The airport has a stretch with Burger King, Popeye’s, Dunkin Donuts. Our Vietnam Airlines flight isn’t some puddle-jumper: a large 180-passenger Airbus. Some of us are given pause by an area of the fuselage that seems repaired w/ duct tape, but the 1-hour flight (640 km) is uneventful. As advised, we’ve put locks on our checked bags for in-country flights.

Danang, one of Vietnam's major ports, is on the South China Sea. The 1^st site for American forces, one of the bases is now used for Vietnamese training. Tuyen notes that there was a major Agent Orange spill here, but it’s one of the best places to live: good schools and housing, very clean, little corruption, a pretty mix of mountains, river, and ocean. 

A stop at one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, known as “China Beach” when this was a major American base. Across the bay: a 17-story-tall beautiful white “Lady Buddha” statue (aka Goddess of Mercy). Marjorie thinks to get some sand for stepsister Mar’s international sand collection. There’s beer on the bus as we pass condos, a casino, resort hotels. Tuyen has bought a small plot of land here, intends to buy another but “money to buy it still in your pocket.”

Tuyen points out the limestone Marble Mountains. Marble statues are a traditional handicraft here, reflected in many shops along the road. As we drive south toward Hoi An Tuyen talks about economic issues, including poor “5-year” planning after the war; the plight of “boat people,” 200,000 of whom died, and challenges for the survivors as refugees. (One can’t help but relate this to the plight of refugees now from Syria.) 

We pass beautiful green rice fields early in the season, views of water buffalo (used like tractors). Colorful buildings in town as we drive to our Hoi An Trails Resort. Check-in while we eat traditional banh mi veggie/pork/egg sandwiches bought for us by Tuyen (he’s very generous thruout the trip). 

Then Marjorie exclaims as we enter our room: “Oh wow! Is this all for us?” Quite a layout: large bedroom, sitting area, a veranda overlooking pretty tropical grounds; plus beautiful robes to wear.

As we board the bus to head in for our walking tour, a smiling laundry lady across the street calls out “Hello!”; she does this every time we’re out, some of our group use her very inexpensive services. Fodor’s calls the ancient town of Hoi An, a World Heritage Site, “what every traveler imagines Vietnam to be” that “defies the insidious pace of modernization.” And it doesn’t disappoint: lively, crowded, a beautiful huge market w/ colorful shops and produce! Tuyen talks of the importance of the market in daily life. 

He offers tastes of special fruits and other foods, even a “mature” duck egg w/ feathers inside! (Here and other markets we eschew such tasting to protect our intestines.) He chats w/ an old woman with black teeth dyed partly by chewing betel leaves when she was young and it was then fashionable. Tuyen implies this accounts for her not needing to see a dentist; I’ll check this option when I see my dentist shortly after the trip. 

We reach the center of the market area, leaving the motorbikes behind. Into the Old House of Tan Ky, largely unchanged over 200 years and 8 generations. Tuyen explains how the architecture incorporates yin & yang and 5 earthly elements. Marks on a wall show flood levels up to 5-6’ above street level. 

Pretty boats along the river.

A different atmosphere and incredible beauty as the sun sets along the river, lighted lanterns all along the streets. 

Into a temple where Tuyen explains (as he does in other temples) the various shrines. 

Over a 400-year-old covered Japanese bridge and on to Dao Tien River Restaurant for a 7-course dinner. A wonderful time. Noisy frogs in the trees overhead remind us of friend Johnny’s “barking” tree frogs. Back to the hotel plenty tired.

 

Sunday, March 6: “Life Along the River” 

         

Overcast to start, headed to the mid-80s but not so steamy as it’s been. A rooster wakeup call, homes and garden plots spread behind our room. We’re being so pampered: bathrooms even have toothbrushes and tiny toothpaste tubes. The breakfast buffet spreads from inside to the patio overlooking a beautiful pool.

          Today is our 1^st optional tour (joined by only about 1/3 of the group): boat trip on the Thu Bon River & a visit to the Traque Organic Village. As the bus pulls away the laundry lady and her 2 small children come out to smile & wave. Our Vietnamese group member Karen was late so has to sing for us; Tuyen: “Don’t be late again! We mind you sing!” 

          We board a pretty old boat and start off chugga-chugga like Bogart’s African Queen. Being on the river really feels like Vietnam. Pretty boats along the shore. 

Fishermen in a small boat throwing a net. Some of our group try their hand, at least managing to stay upright and in the boat. Another local hams it up in a bamboo basket boat looking for tips. 

Tuyen indicates that fishing is in both the river and nearby ocean. A series of large nets are suspended above the river, making quite an artistic tableau. These are mostly lowered at night, raised early AM; but we watch one being pulled up, small fish removed. River fishing is mostly an add-on for subsistence farmers. A close-up view of a water buffalo & calf at water’s edge.

          We disembark on an island of about 3000 people (Kim Bong village) known for traditional woodworking: boats, furniture, and (of course) tourist doo-dads. Local flora includes kapok trees, star fruit, betel leaves and pine nut, bananas (up to 1000 on 1 tree!). There’s a UNESCO Woodcarvers Training Workshop. Beautiful rosewood boats being built. Tuyen says the eyes painted on the bow show the boat-builder’s mood. Back on the river past a more raggedy area, people doing laundry in the river. 

A bus ride to the Organic Village. Tuyen explains that farmland is owned by the government, leased 15 years at a time depending on changes in family needs. We each get a conical hat to wear as we go thru this large “community garden”: 200 families have 1000 sq ft each. We see peanuts, mustard, wasabi, etc. River weed & water hyacinth used to fertilize. Traditional hand-watering is demonstrated, tho some now use a sprinkler system. We get a culinary demo, making chicken & seafood crepes w/ group participation. Then another many-course lunch. Back to the hotel about 3:00 to relax.

          Marjorie & I head back into town about 5:00 on a cool evening. Beautiful lanterns again and floating luminaria in the river; M lights one and makes a wish. Couples taking boat rides like Venice. Near the Japanese bridge a man in a boat wearing a Carnival-style mask is being filmed; don’t know why. Into Cargo to sample “the best cake” (says Tuyen); no argument from us. Van ride back to the hotel. Some wine to top off another wonderful day.

Monday, March 7: “Kings, Wives, & Eunuchs”

          In the news: the US & S. Korea will have their biggest joint war games; N. Korea makes nuclear threats in response. We have a 6am wakeup call! Some clouds to start the day, then hazy sun. Today we’re headed about 110 miles to Hue. Onto the bus, much discussion of where to sit. Tuyen’s instructions have been to rotate each day, but that seems to cause some confusion. Hoi An is a beautiful place, but the old city seems so full of tourist shops. Tuyen indicates that the tourist trade brings local benefits, but can become too commercial; the smiles are real, though. While we drive he gives some lessons on Vietnamese language. “MA,” for example, can have 6 different pronunciations and meanings depending on accents employed. Chinese writing was used until 1919. The alphabet has no f (ph instead), w (v), or z (di). 

We drive past oceans and resorts on one side, farms, rocky outcroppings, and marble shops on the other. A pretty stop into what seems a marble orchard, many shapes, sizes, and colors on display, people creating marble sculptures. Back to Danang, a stop at Dragon Bridge (Fodor’s: “a national symbol of power, nobility, and good fortune”) overlooking a pretty promenade w/ flowers and sculptures along the river.

         We pass the only drawbridge in the country. As we head up into the mountains north of Danang Tuyen talks about land ownership, immigration policies, foreign debt related to economic development. We’re following “Route 1,” a major military route driven by one of the vets in our group. Beautiful albeit white-knuckle views of the ocean below, bamboo basket boats. Tuyen continues his narrative, including disputed islands w/ China & ancient kingdoms, and points out a leper colony below w/ 50 inhabitants being moved to make way for a 5-star hotel. We pass a big truckload of pigs. 

Up to a 1500’ pass shrouded in clouds below a 5000’ mountain. There is a 4-mile tunnel to avoid this road, but the scenic route seems way better! A rest stop w/ ice cream treats, then some local treats from Tuyen on the bus.

Continuing on past pretty fields, interesting houses, layered mountains. Tuyen gives an extended discourse on family matters. There is freedom to marry, but parents must approve. The prospective wife is invited to dinner, but it’s an audition: she must bring the food, prepare and serve it, and clean up after! Tuyen’s description of an attractive woman  ̶   “large milk factories, small lips, big back”  ̶  draws big laughs and is referenced frequently later in the tour. We wonder what his wife would say to this. There are mother-in-law issues  ̶  they frequently inspect the cleaning by wives. 

Into a tunnel and we become the “Disco Bus”: colored lights along the ceiling, music blaring from the front! Tuyen points out a bridge designed by Eiffel, other pretty views from the bus.

          Into Hue, population 500K and one of the poorest cities, due, Tuyen says, to a lack of natural resources. But it’s a World Heritage Site home to palaces, temples, libraries and museums. Fodor’s refers to its “war-ravaged beauty,” having been devastated by the French in the 19^th & 20^th C, and large parts destroyed in the 1968 Tet Offensive. We lunch at our Mondial Hotel Hue w/ Art & Nina from Santa Barbara. Art is a long-time barbershop bass; maybe some will rub off on me. [Side Note: I’ve been rehearsing the past 2 months w/ 107-year-old Mendelssohn Club male ensemble. Very challenging music that keeps swirling around in my head (♫For the rhythm of life is a powerful beat…♫). I’ll audition for membership a couple of days after we return. Postscript: I passed the audition!] 

Tuyen notes that there has been quite a bit of restoration since the UNESCO designation. Vendors hover around the bus door w/ sunglasses & hats on a hot day as we head off to see the Citadel, Imperial City, and Forbidden Purple City. The Citadel, surrounded by a 10 km wall, encloses the Imperial City (in a 2 km wall), the Forbidden City walled-off within. Tuyen discusses the history of various dynasties and of the French & Japanese here. Also the architecture and social arrangements: kings, their wives and their training and ranking, and eunuchs (these 3 groups were the only people allowed into the Forbidden City). 

A musical performance in a courtyard by a small brightly costumed ensemble. Marjorie feeds koi fish, setting off a frenzy reminiscent of similar fish excitement in Sarasota FL. 

An incredible place, so many beautiful sights. A large model shows the scope and details of the original layout. The complex is much larger than we expected, tho Beijing’s Forbidden City (after which this is modeled) is 5 times larger! Even restoration work is interesting  ̶  a 10-year-old wall is made to look centuries old. Marjorie has a weepy moment, like her reaction to Rome’s Colosseum. 

  

And Marjorie like to take atmospheric black-&-white images.

          Back to the hotel. A card from “The Management” says “Have a nice dream,” plus candy. We can hear a rooster from our room.

Dinner all to ourselves outside on the 9^th floor w/ nice Vietnamese wine. Night views of an amusement park w/ the river and Citadel beyond.

Tuesday, March 8: “Encountering the Buddha and Helen Mirren” 

          We awake to find condensation on the outside of our windows. Humid much? And hot: low 90s yesterday, mid-90s today w/ hazy sun. In the news: tennis star Maria Sharapova failed a drug test, already losing sponsors. To the 9^th floor again for an especially pretty and diverse breakfast buffet that includes crepes, dragon fruit, rice pudding cake, soups, curry, spring rolls, stir-fried mustard leaves . . . And look, is that actress Helen Mirren? (see later) We learn that Tuyen also teaches about ethnic groups at Haiphong University. 

About 1/3 of the group boards the bus for today’s optional tour. We learn we missed an interesting and beautiful optional dinner (combined w/ rides on bicycle taxi “cyclos”) last night. A drive along a pretty river promenade, major high schools for boys & girls on the other side. Past many flower vendors on International Women’s Day.

         We begin w/ a 1-hour Perfume River ride on colorful dragon boats. Many other boats and working barges very low in the water. Shopping ops on board (of course!). 

To Thien Mu Pagoda, high on a hill overlooking the river. Tuyen says this Heavenly Lady Temple is the oldest and most holy Buddhist temple; 60% of Vietnamese are Buddhists, but don’t need to go to a temple frequently because “the Buddha already in our hearts and in our family.” He explains some differences between Northern and Southern Buddhism; e.g., monks here have to earn a living (as farmers) rather than depending on donations. Beautiful vistas: pretty grounds & trees, river below, mountains in the distance.

        Shoes off to enter the temple. We’re able to go into the prayer area since we accompany Tuyen. He calls each of our names while a monk strikes a large metal bowl and leaves an offering, some of which (a bunch of grapes) we take back as blessed. Outside each of us can light incense & make a wish. Walking on, without realizing his mic is still on, Tuyen mutters “It’s damn hot!” Knowing laughs from the group. Then an odd and sobering exhibit: a car driven in 1963 by a monk to his self-immolation to protest discrimination against Buddhists. 

We see a young boy w/ half-shaved head: a monk-in-training. About 35 are here, sent at age 7-10 by poor parents seeking a better education and life. They stay until 18, when 85% remain as monks. Tuyens’ parents sent him to a temple for 5 years (age 7-11) for a “healthier” life. He tells more about the lives of monks, and later about Buddhist history and philosophy (which partly seems to boil down to the role of expectations as the source of sorrows; sociologists have said much the same). Back on the air-conditioned bus. Whew! Past a big market (not hard to find in Vietnam).

         To the tomb of a king (not sure which one, maybe Khai Dinh), considered the most beautiful building in Vietnam. Tombs are as important as palaces, since they are to be used in the next life. We have to climb 127 steps!, but Tuyen says they’re “small.” A Buddhist king, but the tomb incorporates symbols from other religions (hedging his bets?). 
Life-size sculptured figures, panoramic views beyond over rice fields to mountains. 

  Beautiful mosaics made from pieces of broken pottery.

Thru a large cemetery (non-king category) to lunch prepared and served by Buddhist nuns at the Dong Thien Pagoda.

Shoes off again; fortunately, I didn’t wear “holy” socks. A very tasty 7-course vegetarian lunch. A personable young nun (23) talks w/ us about life here; 25 live here, 17 in training, the youngest is 11.  

 

 

Another stop at one more tomb, of Emperor Tu Duc, Vietnam’s longest reigning emperor, set among forested hills & lakes. Considered one of Vietnam’s greatest poets, also a painter.

      

    Back to the hotel about 3:15. Too hot and tired to walk down to the river promenade. Later out to dinner w/ Dawn & Aliyah, Arne & Sharon to recommended Nina’s Café, down an alleyway. Good food, good company. A taxi ride to & from, quite an experience in itself as he seeks openings in the traffic regardless of silly lane markings. Ice cream treats at the hotel. A plenty steamy day! In the news: snow forecast in Japan.

Wednesday, March 9: “Rice, Rice, & More Rice”

          Another “moving day,” Hue north to Hanoi to Halong Bay. And another hazy sun AM, headed to the mid-90s. At breakfast Marjorie chats w/ “Helen Mirren,” actually an Aussie tourist who’s never been told she looks like her & is flattered. Tuyen reminds us that this driver will leave us today, so remember tipping. Hotel staff waves goodbye as we depart. Past Boston University Family Medicine Center. We learn some had bad hotel spa experiences yesterday; Tuyen will address this. My Fodor’s Hanoi shopping tips are being eagerly passed around among our fellow travelers. Tuyen hands out local candy (again), and tells us about the “Reunification Train” in 1976: 4000 boarded a train supposed to hold 800 to go from North to South to see family “lost” for many years. To Phu Bai Internat’l Airport, much smaller w/ only 2 gates, was an American air base. Another Vietnam Air Airbus for the 1-hour flight to Hanoi. 

      

In Hanoi we transfer to a bright red bus w/ “Brothel Bus” interior of purple seats and fringe over the windows. Tuyen: “Welcome to my city!” But we head away on a drive east along the coast to Halong Bay. Cloudy, but it must have rained earlier. Rice fields for mile after mile after mile. Family tombs & cemeteries amid the fields. 

Picturesque old buildings in towns or framing the fields. Tuyen talks about rice farming: he explains the cultivation process for 2 seasons per year; fields are divided up among families; dikes used to control water; mostly water buffalos instead of tractors; rice exports from the south, but mostly for family use in the north; rice in California (supposedly) originated in Vietnam. He says there are 10-15 hurricanes a year, he’s never seen snow. Information about culture and customs, including geographic differences. People in the north more conservative, less accepting of change; e.g., Starbucks was 1^st introduced in the south. More coffee in the south, tea in the north. Northerners have a “second burial” custom, too complex and gruesome to delve into here (and I’m fuzzy on the details  ̶  can’t process everything!), and Tuyen earlier showed us various paper products in a store that are burned on the anniversary of a loved one’s death. Past a military training school.

Tuyen jokes about his mother’s repetitive cooking: “Same old s**t!” every day. We learn about his education. Only 10% pass college entrance exams. His parents gave a big party for the 3 from his village who passed, and they sacrificed to send him. School is AM or PM; too many children, not enough schools and teachers for full-day sessions. English is taught in high school. He’s very proud that 98% of Vietnamese can read & write (among younger adults?; this sociologist is skeptical it applies to the entire population). Sons still important for support in old age; wives become part of the husband’s family. There’s compulsory military service for men. Women start wearing conical hats, a symbol of Chinese beauty, at 16.

Uh-Oh! We’ve been pulled over for a (possibly bogus) traffic infraction. Our driver works out a payment w/ police and on our way again. A lunch stop (tasty soup & fried rice) at a stop w/ a Workshop for Disabled, big colorful shops, beautiful marble sculptures. Marjorie buys some pretty bags. Back on the bus, more candy from Tuyen. 

A photo stop in an area w/ lush green gardens, rich black soil. Becoming more mountainous. Thru a more run-down dirty area w/ 2 coal mines. 

To the Royal Lotus Hotel Halong, amid lots of resort hotels here. Our 12^th-floor room has panoramic views, 3 soccer games below us. Dinner at the hotel w/ many courses (again!). Then out to a nearby night market w/o dodging motorbikes as we cross the street! It’s much larger than expected; M finds a nice travel bag to replace the unsatisfying one she brought, a colorful t-shirt for grandson William.

In the news: Bernie Sanders won the Michigan primary.

Thursday, March 10: “Bays & Caves” 

          Overcast but good visibility. Breakfast at the hotel, busy w/ tourist groups: Americans, Germans, Japanese. Bus seating is getting more chaotic. But it’s “Bay Day,” a highlight of the trip. Halong Bay is a World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve, named 1 of the "New Seven Natural Wonders of the World". More then 3000 islands spread over 580 sq miles; more than 700 w/ names from their rock formations (e.g., “Thumb” & “Fighting Cocks”). Legend says these were formed by a giant dragon barreling out of the mountains toward the ocean (“halong” means “descent of the dragon”), but a geologist would refer to the effects of erosion on limestone. Caves & grottoes of all sizes and shapes filled with small waterfalls, stalactites & stalagmites. 

          We pass a musical group in the waiting area, lots of boats heading out  ̶  tho overall it’s pretty quiet, this is low season. Tuyen says the bay averages 500 boats, 17,000 tourists a day; Gate1 arranges a route that avoids much of the “traffic.” We spend 5 hours cruising the bay. Tuyen says we can go anywhere we want on the boat; one of the group asks “What happens if we fall in?,” he replies (with his sly sense of humor) “Should I care?” 

Incredible vistas, so many layers of formations, many different boats: tourist, local fishing boats, barges and freighters. Wow!! 

Our 3 “youngsters” pose at the bow. A gentle breeze and brightening some, the breeze picks up later to make it cool up top but OK. A woman sails up selling tasty little bananas. Champagne and munchies up top courtesy of Tuyen, who leads a toast: “Mo, Hai, Ba, Yo” (1, 2, 3, yo). 

We come to a “floating village,” people live on the water and rely on fishing; but they will be removed soon due to pollution issues.

         Off the boat to go into Thien Cung Grotto. 100 steps up to the cave, which wasn’t discovered until 1994. It’s way more than we expected: large caverns, elaborate formations, nice lighting. Cave-lover Marjorie pronounces it “A great cave!” Folks gather for a group photo outside the cave. 

Lunch on the boat, again way more than expected: pumpkin soup, spring rolls, shrimp, and much more, plus beer. One of the best meals of the trip! We float in the bay, barges passing by. Back on the bus, some quiet time as we retrace our route to Hanoi. Thru towns that are  ̶  well, are they picturesque or grimy and rundown? Both, I suppose. Wakey-wakey, a brief return to yesterday’s rest stop.

On the way again, Tuyen gives an overview of Vietnamese history, beginning in 180 BC! Viet refers to the dominant ethnic group, Nam means “living in the south.” Early domination by China is reflected in the culture. They had to fight off the Chinese & Mongolians after independence, then colonized by the French in 1858. The Japanese took over during WWII. Independence was regained under Ho Chi Minh, but the French returned to the south. Ho Chi Minh turned to Mao after Truman did not respond to his requests for help. The French were defeated and then, of course, the “American war.” Tuyen says Vietnamese don’t think about that now, caring more about their lives and family. He gives examples from his own family of failures of the communist system of 5-year plans, and discusses the emergence of free market principles and becoming open to the world in the mid-1980s. There have been significant gains in education, health care, life expectancy, etc. Tuyen asserts Vietnam is more “capitalist” than any country, as they have to work hard for their own well-being. One of my guidebooks says Vietnam has been one of fastest growing world economies, reflecting “capitalist communism;” tho 70% of the population engaged in agriculture, often at subsistence level. 

Back to Hanoi and traffic congestion. Past people exercising in a park. Karaoke & beer gardens are popular here. 

To our Sunway Hotel in the French Quarter. 

Another sign of the contrasts here: across the street from our rather upscale hotel is a very rundown area. Tuyen says Hanoi has the best pho (beef & noodle soup) and recommends nearby Pho Thin for “authentic” pho. We pick our way along sidewalks full of parked motorbikes & find a number of our group there sitting & supping along a wall. It’s a very popular place. Only $5 for 2 big, filling bowls.

Friday, March 11: “Remembrances of War” 

          Cloudy & cool AM in the 60s. Locals bundled up like it’s in the 30s. In the news: major flooding from torrential rain in US southern states. The biggest breakfast buffet yet. Lots of “mini-cafes” spread along sidewalks outside the hotel, cooking on little stoves, locals sitting on small stools or the ground.

          Cloudy & cool AM in the 60s. Locals bundled up like it’s in the 30s. In the news: major flooding from torrential rain in US southern states. The biggest breakfast buffet yet. Lots of “mini-cafes” spread along sidewalks, cooking on little stoves, locals sitting on small stools or the ground. Onto the bus to drive thru the French Quarter. Past pretty parks, a large impressive Opera House (built like the one in Paris), other impressive university and bank buildings. Tuyen notes that Soviet architecture in the city is “not charming.” 

          

 

To the Old Quarter and large old Dong Xuan Market. Spread across many streets, vibrant and full of people, motorbikes, colorful produce and goods, many sights & sounds & smells. Fodor’s calls this “in-your-face Vietnamese chaos.” A wonderful, atmospheric place to wander. 

 

 
          Then along a 5-km dike lined w/ pretty mosaics. Tuyen indicates that Hanoi was bombed heavily in 1965-72. Past the lake where John McCain was captured after being shot down in 1967. A small memorial of this was erected (of a bound prisoner w/ head hanging low), reflecting his father’s stature then as an Admiral; he visited here in 2000. 

        

  Past impressive government and Communist party buildings, a more modern Parliament. Brighter w/ sun breaking thru as we walk around the spacious promenade by Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum (but not open today). This was built against his simpler wishes to be cremated. Ho Chi Minh is clearly beloved and revered as a patriot, “our father, our uncle” who “sacrificed his life for the country” (never marrying or having children) says Tuyen. He died on their Independence Day; the party changed his death date until the next day to not sadden the former. Tuyen is very proud to have been chosen to visit here when he was 12; his parents treasured a large photo of it. We see a changing of the guard. Have to be careful not to cross a line and get too close; the police give stern warnings to those who do! Continuing on, Tuyen says the government controls the media. You can complain and criticize, but not too publicly (e.g., on social media). He asserts there are 2 corrupt people: traffic police and the Prime Minister.

         To the Museum of Ethnology, Tuyen’s own specialty. Friendly schoolchildren at the entrance clamor to be photographed. Museum displays highlight diverse cultures and lifestyles. Viet is the largest of 54 ethnic groups; minorities are found more in highlands & mountains. 

M & I branch off from the group, starting w/ exterior houses and boats. One lineup of sculptures of men & women showing their “secret parts” as symbols of fertility. 

I climb up some steep tree trunk ladders to see inside living quarters; M elects to stay at ground level. 

Interior exhibits show colorful clothing, crafts, etc. of various groups, nicely displayed w/ mannequins. We buy some things at the museum shop. Back on the bus, some complicated financial exchanges: we owe Dawn, Arne owes us; things get settled.

         To Hoa Lo prison, what came to be sarcastically called the “Hanoi Hilton” where about 50 American POW pilots were held 1964-72. This originally held Vietnamese political prisoners; Tuyen says the French built more prisons than schools. Mostly torn down, what remains is now a museum. It focuses more on French mistreatment of Vietnamese prisoners, but Tuyen says it’s also very “propagandic” about Americans: exhibits on US anti-war protests, destruction from American bombing, how POWs were (supposedly) well-treated. A courtyard contains figures of gaunt prisoners carved into a wall leading to a shrine. A very sobering stop.

          Back on the bus, Tuyen tells about “tiger cages”: grillwork extending out from apartments to give more space. Examples are across from our hotel. He asks us to each buy a gift worth about $2 (encouraging funny ones) to be distributed randomly at tomorrow night’s “farewell dinner.” Sounds like a fun idea. 

Speaking of fun, we’re off to a show at Lotus Water Puppet! Water puppetry is a traditional folk theatrical art form distinctive to north Vietnam. Colorful lacquered puppets are maneuvered by long bamboo poles under the water. There’s a pretty pagoda background, small traditional orchestra, narration by cheo (opera) singers. A series of vignettes of folk tales, daily life, sacred animals (e.g., tortoise): Dragon’s Dance, Farming, Fighting Fox Catching Duck, and others. 

 

The puppeteers wade out for a bow at the end. Great fun! A giggling little boy behind us: “Look, Daddy, at the ducks!”

          After the show Dawn & Aliyah join us to follow tips from Don & Lyla for nearby shopping and eating. They gave us a discount card for Green Mango, where we enjoy a light dinner & drinks (changing tables after a visit nearby from a local “Stuart Little”). The waitress wears a distinctive t-shirt: “Save the Cat Ba Langurs,” referring to a rare Vietnamese monkey. We join the cause (www.catbalangur.org), buying t-shirts for Matt & me. 

Then we all enjoy browsing thru colorful shops, a mix of elegant and touristy. Purchases are made: a fish ornament for our Christmas tree, pretty scarves, a small painting. Another thrilling taxi ride back to the hotel costs a whopping $3. We like Hanoi, a very lively and diverse city. 

 Saturday, March 12: “Life in the Country” 

          Our last tour day. And a last optional tour: Thay Pagoda and So Village. A cloudy, cool AM as we head out of the city. Past pretty storefronts, a pretty park along a median. Thru an area that was full of rice & morning glory fields 10 years ago, now high-rise condos, apartments, hotels. Progress? Tuyen notes that only 2% in Hanoi own homes. He’s one of only 2 in his community to have a home here, hosts others when they visit the city. Home and car loans are hard to get  ̶  the cash economy keeps workers from having clear collateral for banks. Uh-Oh, my voice recorder has died! How will I keep track of things? Oh well, back to the old system of scribbling on note paper. 

          To the beautiful Thay Pagoda, the “Master’s Pagoda,” in Sai Go Village nestled at the foot of Sai Son Mountain. Facing a pretty puppet theater on Long Tri Pond. A young Japanese woman asks to have her photo taken w/ Marjorie. As I try to figure out what makes her so special another asks me to pose w/ her. We’re such rock stars! 

A lovely exterior: beautiful trees, flowers and miniature figures among rocks. 

Inside are many beautiful statues, including large imposing Buddhas. Tuyen describes one statue as “1000 eyes and 1000 arms . . . to see and rescue people from sorrows.” Many offerings, from flowers to cookies and bottled water, and people bringing in more; much of this will be given to people in need. 

An elaborate carved mural that shows how your life is being recorded, and (like Dante’s Inferno) the punishments for various transgressions; e.g., failure to meet obligations to parents means you will forever carry water to the mountaintop and rocks to the water, over & over  ̶  just as parents carry burdens for children.

        

  Onto the bus, more candy treats from Tuyen. A drive well out into rural areas. Past a market selling dog meat! Fish and duck (for eggs) farms. Off the bus at So Village, schoolchildren again excited to have photos taken. Several follow along as “Candy Man” Tuyen hands out goodies. 

To a traditional home w/ a very large sow studying us inquisitively, men repairing the roof, the family makes a popcorn-like treat that we sample.
   

On to the home of an 87-year-old woman; she’s quite a character, smiling broadly w/ her black teeth. We’re offered sample of her homemade moonshine: wine and very strong alcohol; some partake, we decline. She sells homemade brooms to some of our group, and we take a look thru the house, under new construction w/ some beautiful features. Walking thru the village we spot a monkey perched on (but not driving!) a motorbike. Loudspeakers left from the war, now used for local news and announcements. Some people bundling up noodles made from kasaba or tapioca. This time in the country has given us a very different view of Vietnamese life.

          Brighter as we head back to Hanoi. Lunch at Al Fresco’s; mostly Italian, M gets pizza, but I stay more local w/ chicken & cashews. The bus is going back to the hotel, but we stay to wander. Into the nearby Grand Cathedral; very dark interior but pretty stained-glass windows. A last pedestrian thrill ride crossing busy streets. 

Back to a shop where Marjorie regrets not buying a table runner last night. Friendly shopkeeper happily remembers her, a deal is consummated. We walk thru a pretty park along Hoan Kiem Lake, habitat of mysterious giant tortoises (1 found in 1968 was nearly 7’ long, 250 kg!). 

 

Into the Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution, commemorating struggles for independence, various wars, postwar reconstruction. The French, Japanese, and Americans do not come off well here. Past the Opera House and pretty park, a little more shopping before we reach the hotel after a lengthy walk. Plenty tired, but we’ll perk up for tonight’s Farewell Dinner.

          We head off to dinner in a light rain (1^st rain of the trip!). Pretty lights along the streets. To 5 Spice Restaurant for another excellent many-course meal. Raucous toasts, gift-giving frivolity, heartfelt goodbyes. Tuyen is getting a bit weepy.

Sunday-Monday, March 13-14: “Back to the U S of A”

          It’s Going Home Day. Cool, very hazy. We have quite reasonable timing, not too early for wake-up, not too late to have to hang around. Tuyen is here to see everyone off at different times. He’s wearing the blinking wine-glass pin we gave him last night (from a “Warmth of Wine” fundraiser before we left for the trip). A last ride thru traffic. At the airport Marjorie finally completes her shopping: a pretty miniature for her collection. Security takes away Linda from our group. She’s wearing a conical hat atop her cowboy hat, so maybe they’re the fashion police; no, turns out she bought a toy at the War Remnants Museum that incorporates a spent shell casing that in her x-rayed bag looks suspicious. She’s given the OK, but the toy is confiscated.

We’ll have a bit shorter flights headed in the direction of home. Daylight Savings Time begins today, but contrary to my fears our travel across so many time lines does not cause a rip in the fabric of time. A little late leaving Hanoi at 1:00pm, and OMG  ̶  no Elite seats on this leg! But a good hot meal. 

To Taipei at 4:30pm in rain (but who cares now!). We’re assigned to the “Hello Kitty” gate, but M’s disappointed we don’t have an HK plane. We again wander by pretty stores, theme-decorated gates (e.g., Aviation, Music), M looks into pretty chapels. Have we had enough time here coming & going to check off Taiwan on our countries-traveled list? A short delay to remove luggage of 2 no-show passengers, off at 8:00pm. A more southerly route going east, crossing into the US over Washington, flying over the Midwest (while getting a last, good meal). I have another short-lived airplane-dry-air nose bleed. Arrive JFK 10:30pm, temp in the 50s. Thru “semi-automatic” immigration and security, scanning our own passports and taking selfie photos. Around the corner to our Comfort Inn JFK.

Awake next AM at 4:30 (well, I am). We’re able to get out of the city before traffic builds. A cool, drippy drive. Breakfast at our favorite New Paltz diner. I jokingly give the waitress a 10,000 bill (vnd) as part of her tip. And she’s delighted to add it to her collection of different currencies! Back to Latham, mail & newspapers neatly stacked on the kitchen table. Welcome Home!

          Vietnam is a wonderful place we never expected to go. Travel to & from is daunting in itself, lots of flight time and airport layovers. That part wasn’t exactly enjoyable, but more bearable than expected. Don’t think any others in our group used EVA, but we loved it! Comfy seating and good food. How often do you get that on flights these days? And the long travel was well worth the effort. So many fabulous sights and experiences; but we didn’t feel overwhelmed or rushed. Our tour companions were very congenial, and punctual (important on a group tour). Hotels comfortable, quiet, good locations. 

Excellent, diverse, and colorful food, and our intestines held up just fine. Even when not much was expected, like lunches on boats, the food was a treat. 

The weather was cooperative, tho hotter/steamier than expected (and more so than usual for this time of year). But comfortable in the north, and no rain. Our packing was pretty much on the mark; good thing I threw in a t-shirt and pair of shorts at the last minute. And it was also good I bought a new bigger memory card for the trip: my 1200 photos is probably a record for me (tho there are some I know who would have taken many more!). Interesting shopping ops w/ such good prices, we bought more than usual; not a lot by most “tourist” standards, certainly much less than some of our group!, but maybe we won’t feel our usual shame going thru Customs. Here's a collage of purchase samples:

Tuyen was an excellent guide! He’s high energy w/ lots to say. Tho a bit more “quiet time” on longer rides might have been nice, his love of country and  often humorous personal stories contributed greatly to our understanding and enjoyment.

Traveling thru Vietnam can be something of an emotional roller-coaster. Rugged and chaotic, but at the same time beautiful and peaceful. A complicated war-torn history, but most have managed to rise above it all, forgiving and moving on. People who at first glance have little, but really seem to have all they need.

To paraphrase Tuyen, we would be “ridiculous” not to love Vietnam! Perhaps our Vietnamese cat best expresses how we feel about the trip.