Rambling with Russ: Christmastime and OtherSites Along the Hudson

Christmastime Along the Hudson

December 2015

It began with Marjorie’s viewing of PBS show “Craft in America” that highlighted Christmas decorations at the Vanderbilt Biltmore estate outside Asheville NC. The largest privately-owned house in the US: 252 rooms, Christmas decorating includes dozens of trees, more than 1000 poinsettias, miles of garlands & lights. “We should go there some time!,” M exclaims. Russ thinks we have plenty of mansions closer by, googles places in the Hudson River Valley south of us. And so our Christmas outings came to be. It’s been hard to get fully into the Christmas spirit ̶ no snow yet, temps in the 50s ̶ so maybe this will perk us up.

Sunday, 12/13, begins with Marjorie as lector at 8am Mass, Russ later sings w/ the choir at 10, all wearing some pink for Gaudete Sunday. Fr. Walsh called beforehand to ask R to take photos for the church bulletin & website: it’s also Bambinelli Sunday, so children bring figures of Baby Jesus to the altar at the end of Mass to be blessed,

and the hospitality gathering in the parish hall includes caroling & a birthday cake (along w/ the usual donuts, cookies, etc.). Russ is always happy to oblige photographically, and takes some other photos around the church. Back home for a quick change, then off at noon for the 1½-hour drive to Rhinebeck, an area we’d enjoyed during the fall colors.

First stop Wilderstein, a site dating to 1832; the last resident was Daisy Suckley, cousin & confidant to FDR (whose Hyde Park home is a bit further south). As we park there’s a dramatic exterior view of the house framed by a beautiful gnarled tree. From the porch a panorama of the Hudson with a tiny lighthouse in the middle.

The interior, highlighted by many Tiffany windows, is beautifully decorated for Christmas. But two disappointments: the upstairs (& bedrooms) are not open to tours, and after taking a couple of photos Russ learns photos not allowed (tho, in his defense, there was no sign ). [I've added here illustrative samples from the internet.]

After touring inside R takes some photos of a pretty carriage house (tho interior not open) and some interesting run-down structures at the edge of the woods. We’re told by the friendly person in the gift shop (who first greeted us, “We’ve been waiting for you!”) about another estate nearby: Staatsburgh Mills Mansion.

Staatsburgh, dating from 1832, reminds us of the “cottages” in Newport RI. It’s very Downton Abbey-ish; they have teas and other events w/ a Downton Abbey theme to celebrate the “Gilded Age.”

This is larger than Wilderstein, including upstairs bedrooms to view. An example of a servant’s room seems quite nicer than what we’ve seen in Newport; guess the help was treated better here. Beautiful Christmas decorations, including a number of “mouse houses” (or should that be “mice hice”?) scattered around the house inspired by the book Mister Willoughby’s Christmas Tree. The best docents are 2 costumed young girls who are so excited to tell about the butler’s pantry, complete with gestures. But there’s a sign: “No Photography.” Bah Humbug!! [Oh well, I've again added a couple of internet samples.]

And photos are taken of pretty sculptures on the grounds overlooking the river.

Continuing on toward a later concert, we seek sustenance (and solace for the frustrated photographer) at the Village Restaurant in Pleasant Valley. What could go wrong in such a place reeking with Christmas Americana? Sure enough, what to our wondering eyes should appear but . . . Mickey Mouse hugging a snowman next to a “Fresh Hot Coffee” sign above the counter. Not quite a “Christmas Miracle,” but Christmas spirit is restored!

We continue on to Millbrook. A bit early for friend Marlene’s concert, we stroll the main street with plenty of images to further boost our Christmas spirits.

The street is lined with lighted Christmas trees (a long-time local tradition), pretty decorated store windows (a storeowner friend of Marlene’s liked the photo of Marjorie looking into her window so much she asked to use it on her website), and a “sincere” life-size manger scene in a park at one end. Thought any minute Jimmy Stewart would run down the street shouting, “Merry Christmas!”

Before the concert at Lyall Memorial Federated Church Russ takes a few more photos outside. Then a wonderful concert, combining singers from a number of local churches and a small children’s chorus, caps off the day perfectly. After a post-concert reception we follow Marlene to her Poughkeepsie home for an overnight stay.

Next AM Marlene makes huevos rancheros and provides some lessons on her native New Mexico cuisine. A stop on the way home at a Ravena flea market; fun for both of us: collage-worthy items for Marjorie, golf stuff for Russ. Christmas spirit bolstered, Russ sets up the tree in the evening.

Part 2 of our Christmas outings again takes us south. Thurs. 12/17 after Russ finishes a grueling J last choir rehearsal before the heavy Christmas schedule ̶ upcoming “cantata Sunday” w/ small string orchestra, then Christmas Eve Midnight & Day ̶ we drive back to Marlene’s B & B in Poughkeepsie. (Russ had been thru this area this AM delivering blood to hospitals in Kingston & Poughkeepsie in his volunteer role as a Red Cross “Blood Services Transportation Specialist.”) Festive green & red lights adorn the bridge over the Hudson. We relax with tasty mulled wine at Marlene’s. Tomorrow AM we tour the Vanderbilt Mansion. Will they allow interior photos?, Russ wonders.

Thursday was wet but dry today, some sun by noon. A short drive to the Vanderbilt Mansion for a 10:00 tour. Russ strolls the grounds beforehand. Lots of exterior work around the house repairing porticos. Formal gardens have been put to bed for winter, but still good photo angles.

Beautiful trees, and rich folks get excellent river views.

Our tour guide, who looks like Sheldon of “Big Bang Theory,” gives an informative tour of the house. It was built by Cornelius V in the “Gilded Age” (so-named by Mark Twain) when nouveau riche families flaunted their wealth. Cornelius rose from poverty via shipping (including the precursor to the Staten Island Ferry) & railroads to become the richest person in America. His children “lived lives of excess, extravagance, and self-indulgence . . . largely depleting the family money” (says the brochure). The house was transferred to the National Park Service; a party here tonight celebrates the 75^th anniversary of NPS ownership. This was a “country house” used in spring & fall. It’s much smaller than Biltmore (“only” 54 rooms) and more subdued ̶ somewhat dark and not as lavishly decorated as we expected ̶ but still impressive & pretty. And Hooray! ̶ interior photos are allowed.

More pretty grounds & river views as we drive out.

A quick swing thru the Franklin Roosevelt site, but not much to see from the roads. So lunch seems a better option. We head for the nearby CIA (that’s Culinary Institute of America, not spies). This has become a quite large campus along the river.

Good eats at the Apple Pie Bakery Café, which doesn’t require reservations. Like other restaurants here, it’s staffed by students. We got right in before noon, but a big line as we leave. We learn yesterday was graduation; lots of students & parents wandering about.

Classes are still going on, kitchens visible thru large windows are busy.

We stroll pretty hallways w/ seasonal decorations.

As we drive out, passing students moving out of dorms, we’re amused by signs at the crosswalks with “Chef Crossing” symbols. We drive back to Albany feeling full of seasonal spirit. And maybe we’ll come back for New Year’s Eve in Millbrook.

Christmas Music and Store Windows

December 2018

We continue the theme with another brief outing along the Hudson for Christmas festivities. Friday night 12/14 is my Mendelssohn Club Holiday Concert at the Egg in Albany, complete with children’s chorus, percussionists, and a graceful dancing duo. And the usual “Afterglow” gathering for camaraderie, food, and song afterward at the Hibernian Club.

The next day we drive down in the evening to friend Marlene’s concert, “A Winter Songfest” at Bard College Conservatory of Music in Annandale-on-Hudson. The concert is in Fisher Center for the Performing Arts, with its striking Frank Gehry design (full disclosure: the above photo is taken from the Bard website). Combined choruses (Marlene’s in the “Symphonic Chorus” with a student/community mix) and orchestras, plus a number of wonderful soloists; in contrast to my black concert tux (with touches of red bow-tie and cummerbund) the men are in rather fancy individualized attire ̶ one without socks!

Our balcony seats in beautiful Sosnoff Theater look down on the stage; we enjoy a bird’s-eye view of conductor James Bagwell’s very emotive style without being distractingly flamboyant. A nice mix of classical and popular seasonal music, the former including “Parade of the Wooden Soldiers,” the stirring “Laud to the Nativity” by Respighi (a particular favorite of Marlene’s), and selections from “The Nutcracker,” and a spirited singalong. Wonderful performances, tho the College President does a rather uninspired reading of “’Twas the Night Before Christmas.”

After the concert we head further south toward Marlene’s Poughkeepsie home. But first thru pretty Rhinebeck, where we had an October getaway at historic Beekman Arms. Pretty decorations and lights on buildings in town. And you don’t have to go to NYC to find beautiful decorated store windows! The main street here is lined with them. One has many butterflies, and the wool & yarn shop is also particularly lovely.

And a Christmas miracle!: Going thru town I pull aside to let a tailgater zoom by me, a few miles later we pass him pulled over by a trooper. We continue on to Marlene’s at midnight.

After a good night’s sleep ̶ we don’t get up until 9:00! ̶ we’re off to Mass on a cold, wet, dreary day (but thankfully not the forecasted ice). Our Lady of the Rosary Chapel has a rather out-of-way and somewhat Gothic location, following a long winding road past mostly abandoned buildings from an old mental hospital. Pretty white statues up a hill across from the chapel.

And a lovely interior, including Tiffany windows ̶ a “lesser class” of them, Marlene has been told, but nonetheless beautiful. Some of the lighting on the altar is turned off just as I’m ready to take photos after Mass, tho it’s still lovely.