Ireland

IRELAND

May 1995

            This is our 1^st trip “over the pond,” and Marjorie’s 1^st choice.  After dropping son Matt off at the airport for his visit w/ family in Kansas City, a drive to Boston to stay w/ Francisco & Diane.  Dinner with Sarah & Kevin, then exploring Natick and Wellesly that evening and early the next day. Francisco drives us to Logan airport, 80 and muggy in Boston.  Aer Lingus flight on time at 8:30pm.  Dinner w/ free wine (and another snack about an hour before landing), but only an hour or so of sleep.

Thurs., 5/25

            Arrive Shannon 7am  ̶  mostly sunny (!), about 50.  Through customs, exchange some money (exchange rate about 1.65), and pick up Hertz car.  Expected something quite small, like a Fiesta, but they’re out so we get a brand new Toyota Corolla (only 7 miles on it, 4 doors, regular trunk).  Ready to go about 9, our excitement has overcome the lack of sleep.

It’s been a while since I’ve driven a stick shift, so a refresher spin around the parking lot before venturing out. I don't find it too difficult driving on the left and shifting with my left hand, tho I’m glad to start at Shannon w/ open countryside, rather than Dublin.  We will have a very clean windshield  ̶  I often turn on the wipers when I want to signal turns!  But I quite enjoy the driving  ̶  it seems like "real" driving.  We have our share of narrow, twisting roads, squeezing past buses & tractors (and sheep) and trying to see past hedgerows, but there are more roads than expected that are pretty fast, even a few up to 70 (and still being passed by other cars).  We’re probably in greater danger as pedestrians, trying to remember which way to look crossing a road.  It helps in cities to have "LOOK LEFT" or "LOOK RIGHT" painted on the road at crosswalks.

            We also manage to get around without too many wrong or missed turns, even surviving the ubiquitous "roundabouts"  ̶  actually, none seem as bad as our own Latham Circle.  But we learn to look very carefully at the signposts at intersections, often stopping or going back to double-check.  You can generally see route numbers for main roads, but it’s often better to know names (including the Gaellic versions) of towns along the route.  And there are a few times when I actually asked for directions!  I planned our itinerary conservatively, we’re generally able to keep a little ahead, allowing for "unscheduled" things. 

            First stop in Adare, south of Limerick.  A walk around the grounds of Adare Manor (ritzier place than our accommodations during the trip) along a river, and along the village street lined with pretty thatched cottages.  Into in the Tourist Office for soup and scones and to make reservations at B&Bs for our first two nights (we find this a very efficient way to find lodging, and in some areas it would have been difficult to find a place late in the day when we arrived—it’s worth the small fee).

            From Adare through Tralee, over the Connor Pass (impressive views of the Dingle peninsula), to Dingle.  

 The weather is very nice (best of the whole trip), so we head out to Slea Head: spectacular coastal views, a beautiful mix of sun and clouds (and a few very brief misting showers).   

An old stone fort, "beehive huts" (very old stone dwellings up in the fields), a couple of children who collect a small fee for parking on their property, Gallarus Oratory (one of the best examples of stone construction without any mortar), lots of sheep & gorse (shrubbery w/ very bright yellow flowers that seems to be everywhere in Ireland).

            Back to Dingle to find our B&B ("Ard na Greine House").  We enjoy all of our B&Bs.  Some have spectacular views, some are cute and quaint, all are roomy & comfy.  We pay a little extra at each to have our own bathroom/shower ("en suite").  We find the showers a bit of an adventure  ̶  low water pressure and cramped space, and the Irish don't seem to have washcloths.

            After a rather lengthy search, we find Doyle's Seafood Bar for dinner.  It’s the most expensive of the trip, but the splurge is worth it: an excellent dinner of stuffed mussels, sole w/ lobster sauce.  Very tired after dinner (but otherwise nothing we could call "jet lag"), so back to the B&B to crash for the night.

Fri., 5/26

            Cloudy & rainy morning, our first "Irish weather."  Also our first "Irish breakfast" of eggs, sausage, bacon, tomatoes.  Each B&B has a variety of options, including cereal (corn & bran flakes, mueslix, etc.), toast & brown bread (which was everywhere, and very tasty), porridge, and the hot breakfast.  We alternate between cereal and the full spread (must have worked, we’re pleasantly surprised to find back home that neither of us gained weight  ̶  lots of walking).

             From Dingle along the coast, a nice view of Inch Strand (a long stretch of beach going out into the bay), then to Killarney.  Still light rain, so some shopping at an outlet for the Blarney Woolen Mills.  Also a Tourist Office stop for the next 3 nights reservations, which turns out to be wise since the Kinsale area has horse races and not many rooms available.  We drop our stuff at B&B "Sliabh Lauchra House" on Muckross Road outside of town; a pretty view (garden, mountains, sheep, etc.) from our room.

            The weather becomes partly sunny for most of the afternoon, perfect timing (we seem to hit breaks of sun at all the right places during our trip).  

 A pretty and interesting "jaunting car" (horse-drawn cart) ride with Thomas and horse "Sunny" (Irish humor?) around Muckross Estate, bordering the lakes.  A beautiful house, ruined abbey, lush vegetation.  We’re especially impressed with the rhododendrons, up to 2 stories high and many colors we haven't seen before.

            A few miles south to "Ladies View," overlooking lakes & mountains.  It becomes cloudy, rain on & off the rest of the day.   

Heading back into town we stop at Ross Castle, on the shore of the lake.  Sheila's Restaurant in the center of town for dinner.  More excellent food (we enjoy all of our eating in Ireland, contrary to stereotypes): Irish stew, Kerry lamb, apple strudel "with cream" (meaning ice cream).  Still too tired for any pub crawling, but a drive up to Aghadoe Heights for a misty view of lakes and an old cemetery. 

Sat., 5/27

            South from Killarney, over highlands and through tunnels toward the coast.  A very twisty road, lots of rain, plus sheep right along the side of the road, even at pretty high elevations.  Altho the sheep have splotches of paint on their rumps, we can't figure out how they keep any control over whose sheep was whose  ̶  they seem to wander all over.  A stop in Kenmare to see a Druid Stone Circle, very pregnant donkey wandering the road nearby.

            A stop at a nice little restaurant in Glengarriff for coffee by the fire to warm up and meet an Australian couple who seem to have travelled all over, including much of the U.S.  Into Houlihan's Handcraft Shop next store, we find a couple of nice sweaters.  Then a little ferry to Garinish Island out in the bay.  Still raining pretty hard, but we tour beautiful Italian gardens on the island, views of seals (including a baby) on nearby islands on the way back.

            A pub lunch (soup) on the road to Bantry, where the skies begin to clear.  Nice views of gardens & bay at Bantry House, being set up for some movie scenes in "Moll Flanders"   ̶  we’re told it’s supposed to look like the Caribbean, complete with additional plastic flowers in some of the planters!  Along the coast road to Skibbereen and Clonakilty, some nice sunshine.  A stop in Timoleague to see pretty abbey ruins before reaching our B&B "Blanchfield House" in the countryside in Bandon.

            Into Kinsale on the coast, walking around before and after dinner  ̶  colorful fishing boats in the harbor, pretty streets & shops.  Kinsale is known as a gourmet area, another excellent dinner at Fisherman's Inn: pasta w/ seafood, seafood casserole.  Our very young waitress is so excited over her tip; we’re apparently her very first customers (or maybe the Irish are lousy tippers).

            Back to our B&B, we meet other guests from Australia, now living in London: a younger couple with two children.  Their son (age 6) accidentally steps on my foot, then excuses himself and pats me on the head.  This seems the sort of travel experience my Mom & stepfather Bill would have.

Sun., 5/28  

   

Into Cork to look for a church service, but streets quite deserted and St. Mary's Cathedral and St. Ann's (with the "Bells of Shandon") don't have services until later, so Marjorie lights a candle and we head to Blarney.  A sunny morning turns to rain as we pull up to Blarney Castle, but it begins to clear again as we enter the castle grounds.  The gardens & grounds are very beautiful, more so than expected.  We both climb the 127 steps (!) to the top of the castle for the view, but don't do contortions to kiss the Blarney Stone.  Our best shopping success at Blarney Woolen Mill, I even find some things to buy.

            After leaving Blarney our first wrong turn, but it just puts us on a slightly different route to Cahir and Cashel, and we find a pub for a snack in Mallow.  Into Cahir, while looking for the signs to the castle I drive right by it (about 10 feet from the road!).  Marjorie seems to find this amusing [and will remind me of this on subsequent trips].  We tour the castle, which actually has some furnishings (others so far had been pretty bare).

            On to Cashel and the Rock of Cashel.  By now it’s clouded up, rain on and off, but the site is still impressive: cathedral, churches, crosses rising above the plains and the town.  To our B&B ("Maryville", next to an old abbey in the heart of town w/ panoramic view of the Rock.  Dinner at Hannigan's pub (quiche, pork chops, my first Guinness).  A drive after dinner w/ views of the Rock and an abbey all alone in a field surrounded by cows.

Mon., 5/29 

            After breakfast w/ a couple from Chicago, a stop at Cashel Folk Village near our B&B: a small museum of rural buildings and artifacts.  Rain most of the way to Kilkenny, bigger and more complicated than expected.  We drive around a while until stumbling on a car park in the town center of town that turns out to be an excellent location.

            Wandering around Kilkenny, alternating sun and rain, from 11 to 5.  A very interesting tour of Kilkenny Castle (several tours on the trip are particularly enjoyable  ̶  the Irish seem to have a flair for this) in the middle of town along the river. 

  Castle interior beautifully restored (no photos allowed, something I run into a couple of other places, but photos from the internet), pretty grounds.  Into a Tourist Office to get B&Bs in Wicklow and Galway, and we find a miniature exhibit upstairs.  Marjorie has a great time visiting with Sean, he tells her about a miniature shop near our Dublin hotel.  Soup & scones at a cafe (scones become our regular midday snack, especially with black currant jelly).  A look into Black Abbey in town, and interesting shops w/ colorful facades.  Marjorie also finds a local supermarket interesting for comparison with ours, and a little jewelry store where she buys a pretty ring.

            After a few tries, we wend our way to St. Canice's Cathedral.  Beautiful interior (windows and carvings), I climb the round tower outside (very steep 167 steps round & round) for a view of the town.  After another couple of tries we find our B&B "Dunboy", a family home in a residential neighborhood with a very friendly woman about our age as hostess.

            To Langton's Pub for sandwiches & dessert.  This beautiful spacious pub (woodwork, stained windows, etc.) has won numerous national awards.  To a neighborhood pub down the street where we’re clearly the only non-regulars.  We watch what we learn (from "the lads" at the bar) is Gaellic football on TV, enjoy some informal traditional Irish music by a foursome from the neighborhood.

Tues., 5/30

            Breakfast with fellow lodgers from Cleveland, then off to Carlow.  Generally good weather today, mostly cloudy at first but pretty sun/clouds mix late morning & afternoon.  A stop at Browne's Hill Dolmen (near Carlow), portal tomb about 5,000 years old out in a field w/ cows and pretty holly, ivy, etc.  A nice drive thru the Wicklow mountains, including two national "Tidy Town" award-winners, plus lots of gorse, sheep, cows, rabbits, etc.  We "work" our way over to Avoca along a series of country roads, with a few missteps. 

Avoca Handweavers for lunch of soup & scones (again!), just after one bus tour and before another.  This is a pretty area thru the "Vale of Avoca" and the "meeting of the waters."   

On to Glendalough in nice sunshine.  A monastic city, founded by St. Kevin in the 6th C, set in a beautiful valley w/ 2 lakes amid the mountains. 

From there to Mt. Usher Gardens in Ashford, beautiful "wild" gardens along the river, with an impressive heron and secluded pet cemetery.

Into Wicklow to our B&B "Thomond House", set very high on a hill w/ panoramic view of coast & mountains.   

Back to Ashford for dinner at Chester Beatty's, another excellent meal (lamb cutlets, baked salmon) and lots of it.  And, of course, we've now had potatoes in many forms: baked, boiled, roasted, fried, soup.  Another novice waitress, very nervous because it’s her 1^st night.  A screen is set up to watch World Cup rugby from South Africa, a coal fire in the fireplace (this seems quite common).  A drive around the harbor in a light rain.  We learn we’ll be joined in Dublin tomorrow by Prince Charles, reports of "incendiary devices" being found (how exciting!).

           

Wed., 5/31:

            Breakfast with an older couple from Philadelphia, wife from Ireland and husband hates the driving.  They comment on all the "tall people" in Dublin, but we don't see any evidence of that when we’re there  ̶  maybe they ran across a visiting basketball team?  A pretty morning, nice coastal view from the B&B.  Marjorie goes into a grocery store in town looking at baking products (and Galaxy chocolate bars, her counterpart to my passion for scones).  She’s impressed with the fresh produce in Irish supermarkets.

            Mostly cloudy as we drive north to Powerscourt Estate w/ pretty grounds and a view of Sugarloaf Mountain.  Then to the National Exhibition Garden Centre, displaying a variety of garden types (including an herb garden, for which Marjorie has been searching).

            We take the main road into Dublin to a block from the our Georgian House Hotel.  It’s easier to get into the city than expected (especially from the reports of our breakfast companions), but we’re not sure how to get to the hotel.  I park and walk over, someone returns w/ me to direct us to their locked car park.  The hotel costs a bit more than the B&Bs, but a good central location (Lower Baggott & Fitzwilliam Sts., near Merrion Sq [which is surrounded by Georgian townhouses] and St. Stephen's Green), so we can easily walk to things we want to see.  A very nice hotel in an old Georgian townhouse (tho our room is in a recently constructed annex behind).  Nice down comforters, very friendly & helpful staff.  We drop off our stuff and head into the city. 

            Some money exchange (exchange rate getting worse, now 1.68, will reach 1.70, but we use the credit card as much as possible).  Lunch (scone, corned beef sandwich, pastry) at the Kilkenny Shop across from Trinity College, then to the College to see the Book of Kells and Long Room in the Old Library (lots of very old books, woodwork, busts).  We do Trinity College right away because Prince Charles is visiting it tomorrow and it will be closed to us "ordinary" tourists. 

Over to S. Great George's St., where miniature store suggested by Sean proves disappointing, and tours of Dublin Castle closed today because of a banquet tonight for Prince Charles.  His visit is quite a thing, the first by someone of his royal stature in some 80 years.  Lots of interest, both positive (hopes for increased English tourists) and negative (in part because of something done years ago by the Regiment w/ which he's affiliated), tho younger Dubliners seem more excited about Sinead O'Connor's upcoming concert.  Lots of Gardai (police) around the streets and government buildings.  

Undaunted, we walk around the Grafton St. area w/ its variety of shops (and Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Georgian townhouse converted to shops and restaurants).  

 A stroll thru St. Stephen's Green in a light sprinkle.  

We finish our afternoon at "Number Twenty-Nine," restored 18th C merchant's home off Merrion Square.  Another interesting tour, just Marjorie, me, and guide Charlie, a delightful older man.   

Back to the hotel to relax, I find a USA Today International Edition to catch up on U.S. sports news (coverage in Irish papers is pretty much limited to rugby, soccer, hurling, and golf).

            Out looking for a light dinner.  Most places near the hotel are more than we want, but we find Davy Byrne's Pub (a James Joyce's hangout) for a good meal (Irish stew, cold smoked salmon plate) and rugby on TV.

Thurs., 6/1 

            Breakfast in the very pretty hotel restaurant: buffet of breads, scones, cereal, fruits, porridge, cereal, or hot breakfast if you want.  After breakfast we find a mother cat & kitten outside our window, subsequently learn a number of cats seem to live in the courtyard.  Later in the day I play St. Francis when Marjorie spots a cat wandering about with a cat food can stuck over its head.  I gingerly twist the can off; the ungrateful beast hisses at me and runs off.

            Cloudy again, as it was all afternoon yesterday.  Across O'Connell St. Bridge (over the River Liffey) to the Moore St. Market: open-air stalls w/ fruits, vegetables, /flowers, /meat shops lining the street.  Unfortunately, it isn't very busy  ̶  this is supposed to be a good place to experience Dublin repartee  ̶  and Molly Malone nowhere in sight.  

 After coffee at a Burger King (!),thru the Temple Bar area along the river and about 1/2 mile to the Guinness Hop Store.  Interesting exhibits (including colorful advertising posters, often seen on pubs) and A/V show.  Each visitor can get 2 sizable glasses of Guinness; it being before lunch, we share one.  We also observe the science of pouring Guinness and letting it settle before topping off with the perfect "head."

            A walk back to the city center for lunch at Bewley's Oriental Cafe, a cafeteria that's a landmark in Dublin: chicken curry, soup, pastry.  

Dublin Castle now open, another well-done interesting tour.  Colorfully decorated "State Apartments" are particularly impressive, including the hall used for Prince Charles' banquet last night (it’s also used for various meetings, including N. Ireland peace talks).  Then into a pretty cafe at the Castle to share coffee & "caramel strip" (shortbread w/ a layer of caramel & chocolate frosting).

           To St. Patrick's Cathedral (Church of Ireland) w/ beautiful interior and a lovely park.  Thru St. Stephen's Green to Grafton St., and to the hotel.  We learn there was a protest at Prince Charles' visit to Trinity College  ̶  eggs & potatoes thrown at the car, several arrests.  We had walked thru that area an hour before it happened. 

            It’s been cloudy (tho little rain) the whole time in Dublin, but after we get back to the hotel the sun comes out.  Too tired to do everything over again, but I head out to take a few sunny pictures.  Dublin looks different with sunshine & blue sky!  We picnic in our room on salads and sandwiches from a grocery by the hotel.

Fri., 6/2

            After hotel breakfast, we get out of Dublin toward Galway w/o difficulty.  Generally fast roads headed west, a cloudy day.  Mid-morning stop at Harry's for our coffee/scone habit.  This "road house" seems to be a landmark, as we got in just before the arrival of what seems to be every tour bus in Ireland.  

We leave the main road east of Athlone to head to Clonmacnoise, monastic settlement founded in the 6th C  ̶  cathedral, churches, tower, etc.  ̶  set in a beautiful valley beside a marshy lake.   

Then to a bog railway near Shannonbridge.  A very interesting rail tour (in light rain) thru a very large peat bog, lots of info about bogs and the harvesting of peat for fuel.  Nearby processing plant supplies all of the power for the area.  A snack at the coffee shop, splitting a scone & caramel strip.

            On to Galway, arriving about 3:30.  First to our B&B "Sailin", our only one not "en suite," but we have a separate bathroom down the hall only for us.  The B&B is in Salthill, just outside Galway in a Cape Cod-like residential area along Galway Bay w/in a bird sanctuary.  The town itself seems more like Atlantic City, a promenade overlooks the bay w/ "casinos" (slot machines for bingo, poker, etc.), even a "Caesar's Palace."

            Into Galway for dinner at Conlon's Seafood Bar, a no-frills local spot with good food (breaded plaice, curried prawns).  We stroll thru the city a bit after dinner.  Pretty streets, a park named for President Kennedy off the main square.  A modern shopping mall in the center that has long sections of the original city wall.  We don't stay as long in the city as we might have, since it’s pretty miserable  ̶  cold, drizzly, and crowded (it’s a "bank holiday" weekend, apparently one of two during the summer).  Back to the B&B to warm up with a pot of tea from our hostess and watch some hurling on TV (what a rough sport that is!).

           

Sat., 6/3

            Breakfast overlooking bird feeders, the bay beyond.  Lots of activity: sparrows, green finches, robins (much smaller than ours), little ones being fed by their mommies.  The most chatty hostess of our stays.  She explains that the Irish speak of three groups of tourists: Brits, Yanks, and foreigners (everyone else).  She also tells us there’s a Saturday open-air market in Galway w/ produce, flowers, crafts, etc., so we go there before heading out to Connemara.

            After generally crummy weather yesterday, our good weather luck continues to bring sun when we would most like to have it  ̶  a pretty morning,  nice breaks of sun & blue sky until mid-afternoon.  We enjoy the market in Galway and walk around the city a bit more, including a path along the river, and finally spot the Lynch Memorial Window (couldn't find it last night).  This refers to a medieval mayor of Galway who executed his own son (for the murder of a Spanish diplomat) when no one else would do it.  Happy little story, an appropriate skull underneath the window.

            Off for Connemara, stretching west of the city.  Oughterard to Maam Cross, where we stop for coffee & scone next to a replica of the cottage used in the movie "The Quiet Man" (John Wayne & Maureen O’Hara).  A turn off the main road to head for the coast: Ballynahinch (a castle w/ pretty grounds by a river) and the Roundstone area.  A beautiful rugged area of mountains, lakes, bogs, coast, rocks everywhere.  It’s also the most tiring driving of the trip: narrow winding roads, always on the lookout for critters in the road (sheep everywhere, plus cows, chickens, etc.).  

 Also some shaggy Connemara ponies, but they stay in their own fields.

            The "Sky Road" at Clifden takes us way above the coast for panoramic views.  We decide to have our main meal for the day at about 2 in Doris's Restaurant (another of a series of excellent suggestions from our Fodor's book), the oldest building in the center of Clifden w/ beautiful interior and excellent food (carrot & seafood soups, beef & Guinness casserole, cheese & salad plate).

           After dinner north to Kylemore Abbey, on a lake in the midst of the mountains.  It’s starting to mist w/ lower clouds, giving a very different look to the mountains.  Then back to Galway, dessert & coffee at a pub near the B&B.  By now the weather has cleared again and we have our first really pretty evening (sunset not until about 9:45).  Into Salthill to look into the casinos (tacky!).  Music in the bars aimed at the young people "on holiday," not the traditional music we’re interested in.  But we stroll along the promenade w/ a pretty view of the bay.

           

Sun., 6/4 

            A nice morning.  As has been true most of the trip, mostly cloudy but nice breaks of sun and sky.  2 weeks seems about long enough, we’re both suffering from "ABC (Another Bloody Castle) Syndrome," passing castles, abbeys, fields of sheep, etc., without stopping (or taking pictures!).  But after leaving Galway, a stop at Dunguaire Castle, set on a promontory in the bay w/ swans swimming about.

            Along the coast to Ballyvaughan, then inland into the Burren, a desolate rocky area of pretty little flowers, stone walls, megalithic tombs, etc.  Nice breaks of sun.  We can’t find a church service at the right time, but listen to a Mass on the radio as we drive along.  A stop at the Burren Display Centre in Kilfenora, but it turns out to be outside the rocky area that was so interesting.  Another coffee/scone break.

           On to Cliffs of Moher on the coast.  This is even higher above the coast and more impressive than expected, especially with some nice sunshine and excellent visibility. 

 Continuing to Ennis and Quin, a stop to see the Craggaunowen Project: castle, recreated Bronze Age lake village ("crannog") and fort, and a boat used to recreate St. Brendan's reputed journey to (and discovery of) North America.

 

            Final destination is Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.  Our 1st experience with screaming children during the trip, but this an interesting recreation of a 19th C Irish village & farm.  Thru the castle w/ beautifully restored interior; it’s being prepared for evening banquets.  Apple tart w/ cream to hold us over until our banquet at 8:45.  To our B&B "Bunratty Arms", about 2 miles from the castle, to relax.

  Another pretty, sunny evening as we return for the medieval banquet.  This proves a wonderful way to finish the trip  ̶  good food, music, and merriment.  A reception of honey mead (very tasty wine), then a very hearty dinner with four "removes" (courses) to be eaten w/o utensils, much frivolity and entertainment (fueled by plentiful wine) that includes audience participation (guests chosen to be the lord & lady of the manor, and a prisoner who’s put, briefly, into the dungeon) and traditional Irish music  ̶  excellent singers accompanied by fiddle & harp.  Tho geared to tour groups, we wind up sitting across from a couple from Limerick.  Colette is the music director for this and 2 other castle banquets.  Their son is a conductor, they introduce us to one of the singers who studied at the Manhattan School of Music (she'd left a year ago, so didn't know our Matt, who is studying percussion there, but she might be headed back soon).  We trade addresses and phone numbers.

            A clear, cool night when we leave, a sliver of moon & lots of stars.  It’s the first time we've been out when it’s really dark (about 11:45).

           

Mon, 6/5

            A cloudy morning for our last day.  After a light breakfast, to the airport.  Coffee & a last scone at the airport, Marjorie uses our last Irish money to buy a fistful of Galaxy bars.  To the "Cashback" window to get a refund of the VAT on our purchases.  Our flight departs Shannon at 12:30.  We fly over Iceland, or maybe Greenland or Newfoundland (not sure which, anyway, a big land mass w/ lots of ice).  Arrive Boston at 1:30 (in the 80s & muggy), Francisco picks us up.  After clearing our heads and stretching our legs, we head back to Albany, arriving a little after 7:00.

            'Twas a "grand" trip, exceeding even our inflated expectations!