Fall in the Finger Lakes

 

Finger Lakes Redux

October 2024

 

            Another Fall outing to the Fingers Lakes wine country, retracing some of our travels in 2013. [An article in the Sunday Times-Union says travel is “anti-aging therapy.”] Joined this time by 2 favorite travel companions from our Wisconsin days, Kay & Diane, the latter now coming out from Santa Fe. They arrive just a day after I return from a golf outing in southern Utah. I’m loaded up with Wine Trail maps. We thought of getting an arrangement to be driven around, but those are quite expensive. So I will be the “designated driver.”

            We have a couple of days before the Finger Lakes excursion. I catch up with lawn mowing and work on the journal & photos from Utah. Marjorie & I enjoy what seems an especially comforting 8am Mass Sunday with Fr. Daniel & Deacon Marty. Later I take photos of a well-attended Blessing of Animals outside the Church. Marjorie takes Diane & Kay to the lovely Sand Lake Merchant shop where some of her creations are sold. Then to the Hagaman art show, where she sold 3 pieces and received a 3^rd-place ribbon. On Monday Diane & Kay get tours of Pruyn House, a historical/cultural site for which Marjorie is on the Board of Trustees, and Beverwyck, where we are on the waiting list to move to “senior housing.”

Tuesday, 10/8: “Uppity Women”

Tour group very cooperative, on the road at 7:45am. A beautiful morning to begin; the rest of the day a pretty mix of sun & clouds, a few “pop-up” showers. Good to not be in Florida, where “monster” Hurricane Milton follows on Hurricane Helene. We eschew the Thruway to take more scenic Rt.20, aka “Cherry Valley Turnpike.” Nice color, as ordered. A coffee stop (plus

cinnamon buns, toast) at lovely little Cassidy’s Diner in Richfield Springs. 

 Past Morrisville, where friend Char recently graduated from SUNY, and pretty Cazenovia Lake. Pretty homes in Skaneateles & Auburn. Very seasonal along the road: lots of orchards, pumpkins, Halloween decorations.

We stop at Seneca Falls to visit a couple of interesting museums. First, the Women’s Rights National Historical Park. Established in 1980. It tells the story of the 1st Women’s Rights Convention, July 1848. Women at a social gathering in Waterloo decided to hold a convention “to discuss the social, civil and religious rights and condition of women" in support of a Declaration of Sentiments asserting that women should have “immediate admission to all the rights and privileges which belong to them as citizens of these United States.”  The convention, organized by Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Lucretia Mott, and Mary Ann M’Clintock, was held in Wesleyan Chapel (next door to the museum) and drew over 300 people. An excellent filmstrip, interesting exhibits.

After lunch at Downtown Deli we head to It’s a Wonderful Life Museum, opened in 2010 in part of what was the 1^st movie theater in town. It’s a Wonderful Life was filmed in California, but Seneca Falls has been viewed as inspiration for key scenes and for Bedford Falls itself. Frank Capra visited Seneca Falls while working on the script, and the film refers to local areas such as Buffalo, Rochester, and Elmira. Much of the architecture is very similar. And a real-life story of a Seneca Falls resident rescuing a woman from drowning seems echoed in the film. The museum started with one display case; rare items have been added over the years. One display case has miniature houses of Bedford Falls buildings. Other exhibits focus on actors in the movie. A canal below downtown purportedly has the bridge on which George Bailey pondered his life.

On the road again, I point out Seneca Lake, aka “Grandma’s lake” (my mother grew up in Geneva, at

the head of the lake). Continuing to Canandaigua, passing the lovely retro Miami Motel where we had some mid-summer Christmas gatherings with cousins Marcia & Bob, stepsis Mar, and my brother Doug & sister-in-law Ann. On to the Ontario County Courthouse. Marjorie & Kay get thru security to surreptitiously photograph a bust of the great-grandfather of Kay’s friend Fran. He was responsible for granting bail and releasing Susan B. Anthony after her arrest for voting illegally!

A short drive to Penn Yan and our base of operations: the Hampton Inn. We stayed in a Penn Yan B&B in 2013 but need more rooms for our group this time. It’s a very nice place, sold out for the week. Right on the northern shore of Keuka Lake, pretty views. Very friendly staff. Lots of witches, skeletons, and spiders, and to Marjorie’s dismay squeaky doors. Keuka Restaurant on Main St for a good dinner. Windy & brisk now. A fine start to the trip!

 

Wednesday, 10/9: “Glass and Art”

 

           A sunny AM, sun/clouds mixed again with brief showers later, sometimes combined with sun and even brief hail! In other weather news: Disney World is closing for category 5 Hurricane Milton. Our hotel has a well-stocked breakfast spread, including eggs, bagels, biscuits, country gravy, and even grits! Kay & I begin a routine of early breakfast before Diane & Marjorie are up.

We observe an adorable 17-month-old toddler running circles around his parents. A pretty drive along Senaca Lake, then along back roads to Corning. Past pretty houses and Fall decorations as we work our way to the Museum of Glass.

 

A colorful shuttle, with very pleasant driver, goes to the Glass Museum, Rockwell Museum, and downtown.

            The Glass Museum is wonderful. So much to see here, so beautiful & colorful! Like yesterday (and the rest of the trip) I can’t stop taking photos! The building itself is very pretty, waving grasses outside. This venue has greatly expanded since Marjorie & Diane took a 5-day glass-making class several years ago. An Amish group is also touring the museum; we see many Amish and their horse-and-buggies around the area. Past a truck adorned with colorful glass pumpkins, then thru the gift shop (of course!), more glass pumpkins, and many other beautiful creations. 

The Sensorium alone has 35 centuries of glass & scents: Roman, Islamic, Venetian, and many more. Flameworking demos. A very interesting stop.

            Back on the shuttle, across the river to the Rockwell Museum, the only Smithsonian Affiliate in Upstate NY. No, not Norman; department store owners Bob & Hertha Rockwell donated their collection of American art & culture, now housed in the old City Hall. Nice views from a 3^rd-story terrace. A series of Remington sculptures, “The Rattlesnake” especially evocative. Very eclectic. Other exhibits range from American landscapes to Southwestern pottery to Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) objects. A towering “Blanket Stories.” A pile of candy - take a piece to become “part of the life cycle of the artwork.” A Day of the Dead altar. “Peculiar Paradise” Florida photos. We like this museum! 

A “High Water Level Sign” shows flooding incredibly above the river from Hurricane Agnes in June 1972; 17 people were rescued by helicopter from the roof of the Corning Glass Center! The shuttle takes us thru downtown, aka the “Gaffer District,” then back to our car.

            Thru Watkins Glen and up the west shore of Seneca Lake. A stop at Lakewood Vineyards. A very pleasant tasting, choice of 5 Dry or Sweet varieties. Cute little dog playing with a ball. 

Back to the hotel, wine & cheese in our room before dinner at Keuka Breeze. I get no sympathy from our waitress when I complain about traveling with 3 women.

 

Thursday, 10/10: “Amish Crafts and Farm Markets”

            A chilly day but mostly sunny. Milton’s “path of destruction” has caused severe flooding and spawned dozens of tornados in Florida, even ripping the roof off Tropicana Field. 

Using Kay’s tip from a local newspaper, we head to Crystal Valley Produce & Greenhouse, on an Amish farm. A Fall bonanza: pumpkins, colorful mums, cookies, pretzels, beautiful quilts! 

On the road, pretty farms & markets, passing an Amish horse-and-buggy. 

To Weaver View Farms, an 85-acre farm just off the west shore of Seneca Lake in operation since the early 1800s. Owned by a Mennonite family, the Amish Country Store is a “haven of rest for weary travelers.” Their prize-winning quilts, hung from the rafters of an 1850s dairy barn, have been featured in Smithsonian Magazine. There’s honey, jams, jellies, relishes, sauces, cheeses, and whoopie pies!

            A stop at Fox Run Vineyards. Like many, this has a pretty sculpture sign by the road to catch your attention. Coffee & cookies, no wine tasting this time. Kay satisfies her “desire to acquire” with a pretty wooden turntable. Lots of sayings on the walls; e.g., “Roses are red, violets are blue, I love my cat way more than you.” This and some other vineyards have B&B accommodations. 

More scenic driving, wineries & views, even some grapes still on the vines.

            Into the pretty Penn Yan downtown. Yates County Art Center has a Day of the Dead exhibit. A former bank, jewelry exhibited in a scary vault. 

Parker’s Grill & Tap House a good spot for lunch. We’re learning some local lingo: “handhelds” for sandwiches, “FLX” for Finger Lakes. Strolling & shopping downtown. Halloween figures along the street and in storefronts. 

Staving Artist Woodwork has beautiful wooden crafts & furniture, made from recycled/reclaimed materials for a “non-disposable lifestyle.” Reclaimed barrel staves are used in many of the pieces, hence the store name.

Back to the hotel, past an elaborate front-yard Halloween display. We’re all pretty worn out. Hot chocolate and a game of UNO. Marjorie, Kay, and I take a short drive along the lake in the pretty lowering sun. 

Apples, cheese, wine, whoopie pies in our room suffice for dinner. A call to cousin Marcia to arrange a meeting tomorrow with her & brother Bob.

Friday 10/11:

            Pretty low clouds over the lake, a beautiful sunny & chilly AM. Tour bus in the parking lot, breakfast room full of Amish returning from Indiana. Yankees & Mets both make it to League Championship Series – will there be a “subway” World Series? Time to head home, but still some stops. 

To a brewery with a hops view. 

A side road to Plum Point with lake views. 

Into Watkins Glen. Pretty houses & marina. But we nix a hike to see the waterfalls in the Glen; been there, done that. 

Continuing on the road, a stop in Burdette at Overlook Coffee Company above a small waterfall. A nice friendly spot for coffee & cinnamon buns. A husband & wife started this place 2 months ago, ribbon cutting next weekend. 

More pretty vistas and Fall colors on the way to Ithaca. We meet Marcia & Bob at Milkstand for an excellent lunch and enjoyable visit. Haven’t seen them in way too long. A tiring albeit pretty drive back to Albany, one more stop for whoopee treats.

            This was a fine trip. Everything worked out so well: good weather (rain & frost after we get back!), comfortable lodging, Fall colors & lake vistas, wineries, interesting museums. The best part was having a long visit with Diane & Kay, plus added visit with cousins Marcia & Bob.