On the Orient Express

 

On the Orient Express: A Belated Anniversary

Fall 2023

 

            Train-lover Marjorie has long expressed her desire for a trip on the Orient Express (there’s also Buddy Bombard’s Balloon Adventures, but that’s another story). She’s nonetheless surprised when I give her a “voucher” on her BD in 2021, aiming to celebrate our 50^th Anniversary (11/20/21) in Fall 2022 when (hopefully) COVID would be under control. The pandemic eases by March. On-line searching leads to multiple sources & routes, London, Paris, Venice, Vienna, Budapest, Istanbul, etc. I

decide to look into London to Verona (a city we’ve not visited) with Railbookers, which is cited very positively. A very pleasant discussion with Eileen to look for a Fall trip. After some searching, she indicates almost everything booked but found one: “Grand Suite” for $19,000 per person! Woof! I do love dear Marjorie, but that seems way over the top (it’s only one night on the train, after all!). So Eileen searches for Fall 2023 and finds a much more sensible booking. We just have to be patient, lots of anticipation time.

The Orient-Express was created in 1883, 1^st trip left Paris for Constantinople with 40 passengers for 13 days roundtrip, unveiling midnight blue metallic cars with golden trim that led to its “Train Bleu” nickname. Trains became known for luxurious decorations & services: wood marquetry, glass panels, fabrics, refined leather, plus an “incredible gastronomic experience.” 

Murder on the Orient Express by Agatha Christie was published in 1934; various movie & TV adaptations followed. The original route ran from Paris across Europe thru Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, Budapest, & Bucharest before arriving in Istanbul. Other routes headed south thru Lausanne, Simplon, Milan, Venice, Belgrade, & Sofia before Istanbul, or as far as Athens. The last direct trip between Paris & Istanbul was 1977.

            A mission to bring the train back began with 2 original carriages bought at auction, others tracked down for skilled craftsmen to restore; all classified as Historical Monuments. Relaunched 1982, increasing destinations & routes since then. The current Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE) is part of Belmond, which operates other “luxury trains,” including British Pullman, Royal Scotsman, & Andean Explorer. One account says: “Of all the luxury journeys in all the world, none evokes a picture of pure elegance, timeless sophistication and unparalleled romance quite like the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Truly harking back to the 'Golden Age of Rail Travel', everything from the vintage cabins, exquisite gastronomy and convivial entertainment to the deluxe sleeping cars and inimitable service ensure that you are in for the journey of a lifetime. This is one train ride that is truly unforgettable.” But will there be a murder on board?

The train “dress code” presents some packing challenges. “Formal evening attire” expected at dinner, suit & tie or “dinner suit” for gentlemen, “smart attire” for ladies. But happily the info with our vouchers seems less strict: “minimum requirement for gentlemen” of jacket & tie, “equivalent standard” for ladies. The rest of the day dress is “smart-casual;” “It goes without saying that jeans are not suitable at any time.” We pack for cooler in London, warmer in Verona.

Some Fall colors & Halloween decorations around here. Probably lots of grass to cut when we return, been a wet summer; when it’s not raining I have to mow the lawn!

September 29: “Hell or High Water”

          

Facebook has “Your Memories” of our cross-Canada train trip in 2014; seems a good omen. But forecast of heavy rain & flooding along the East coast is concerning. A dreary drive down but we make good time until reaching the outskirts of NYC. Water pooling on roads, shunted off both Sprain & Hutchinson Parkways due to flooded sections. Google Maps on Marjorie’s phone directs us via secondary roads to the Whitestone Bridge. Slow, heavy traffic on the Van Wyck. Past a car demolished by an accident. We eventually make it to our parking at JFK Long Term Parking only to get a text that our 1^st flight (JFK to Boston, connecting to London Heathrow) is cancelled! To the airport, long line for customer service, but agent gives me a phone # to avoid the line. A very nice agent rebooks us onto a direct flight into Heathrow 2 hours earlier than our original flights! TSA Precheck saves us from long security lines.

 

September 30: “British Atmosphere”

            Lights of London spread out as our 6-hour flight is on time to Heathrow at 6am. A nice day, high clouds & cool. As long as we’re splurging for our anniversary, I added transfers for most of our arrivals & departures by plane or train. We have detailed instructions & a map of where to find our driver but can’t find anyone with a “Russell Ward” sign, tho we’d informed them of the flight change. A phone call, a couple texts, and we connect with the driver, who’d been delayed by traffic. Thru unusually heavy traffic around the airport to Crowne Plaza London Kings Cross (an upgrade from our original hotel). The hotel has a very diverse clientele & staff: Muslim, Sikh, German, etc. We get ample sustenance from the breakfast buffet before going up to our cozy room offering a view of construction next door by “considerate constructors” (sign says).

Out for a stroll in the “hip neighbourhood” near the hotel. Shops & eateries aplenty, nice pedestrian area. Very atmospheric, from pretty Our Most Holy Redeemer Church to Barber Streisand (lots of barber around). 

While Marjorie relaxes, I go out for a brief stroll that becomes much longer than expected. Everything is further than it looks on my map, plus a wrong turn or 2. But very atmospheric, pretty roofs & facades. 

Out to dinner in the busy pedestrian area at a nice Italian place (continuing our UK “tradition” begun with Italian dining in Scotland in June). Back to the hotel, Aljazeera News on TV: NYC “brought to a standstill” by flooded streets, subways shut down, The most rain ever recorded at JFK: 8”! National Guard called in. US team “clobbered” on 1^st day of the Ryder Cup golf (spoiler alert: Europe wins the 3-day event). The House passes a 45-day bill to avoid government shutdown. Oops! I forgot the mask for my new travel CPAP, I’ll have to sleep unencumbered during the trip.

October 1: “Ridiculous to Sublime”

            We both sleep to 8, highly unusual. A nice day; throughout our stay here a mix of clouds & sun, up to the mid-60s (warmer than usual). Down to the busy buffet. We did the usual London tourist things (Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, etc.) in 2004; this time we’ll focus on a few things in the areas near our hotel. An uber to Madame Tussauds, passing Kings Cross Station, the British Library, and other nice views. We’re just in time for the 10:15 queue.

 

           The museum was founded 1835 by French wax sculptor Marie Tussaud, who learned her craft creating death masks of those executed by guillotine including Louis XVI & Marie Antoinette. It has spawned similar museums around the world. A big place: you go up & down, around 3 floors & 8 “zones,” more than 150 figures. Flashier, less museum-like than expected. Marjorie “shocked” by how realistic the figures are. We enter past a panoramic view of London, Queen Elizabeth & her corgis. 

Then a walk thru many celebs you can pose with: all the James Bonds, Judy Dench & Helen Mirren, the Royal Family (those in good graces), the Beatles walking across Abbey Road, many other singers, actors, etc. Areas of Star Wars & Marvel Heroes. The Chamber of Horrors. A Disneyesque ride, The Spirit of London: historical scenes, murderers, epidemics, etc. You can buy your hand in wax for only 20 euros. More fun than we expected.

           

A short walk to Regent’s Park, once reserved exclusively for royals. Cold drinks & a bite at a café by tennis courts. Pretty Queen Mary’s Gardens. Mostly roses (mostly past their prime, tho beautiful nonetheless), a pretty pond & waterfall, colorful ducks. What next? How about going from the “ridiculous” of Madame Tussauds to the “sublime” of the British Museum. Difficulty connecting with uber. Into the nearby Royal Academy of Music, a pretty entry lobby, but staff not allowed to share the Wi-Fi password. But help at Madame Tussauds yields a ride.

            The British Museum, “a museum of the world, for the world,” was established 1753. The 3^rd-most visited museum in the world. A collection of 8 million works in history, art, & culture. More than 60 galleries from around the world on 3 floors. Including, of course, mummies! 

 

Afterward we decide to walk back to the hotel. A small pretty Greek restaurant is a nice spot for another cold drink & bite at an outside table. Later other restaurants too full or too far to walk, so back to Italy for dinner; as will be evident in Verona, when we find a nice place to eat we become “regulars.” Marjorie disappointed at not finding a place for fish & chips, but gets over it quickly. Back to the hotel to pack appropriately for the train.

October 2: “The Fancy Train”

 

           A wakeup call, breakfast, then to Victoria Station to follow directions to connect to the next leg of our trip. Another uber thru more London views; glad I’m not driving! I ask a man for directions to Platform 2; “Oh, the fancy train,” he says. A nice reception area to check in. Some people already quite well dressed, including a few kilts. Marjorie to a nearby Marks & Spencer to spend our “leftover” cash from prior UK trips; told the money is “too old,” but credit card just fine. Sign spotted at a store: “Don’t grow up, it’s a trap!”

Our “journey into Golden Age opulence” begins with boarding (as we're serenaded) a luxurious art-deco Belmond British Pullman to travel thru English countryside, seated in an elegant dining car: Phoenix, built 1927, resurrected 1952. An appropriate quote from A. A. Milne: “Nowhere can I think so happily as in a train.” Apparently starting from London via Pulman will no longer be an Orient Express option beginning October 1, maybe due to Brexit, so it appears we’re the last to start this way rather than in Paris.

Brunch is served by friendly stewards Sarah & Gary. First a spot of blackberry wine then refreshing bellinis (kept filled thruout) & several courses. Advice from a friendly British couple across from us whose relative worked on the “Chunnel”: “Say yes to everything.” Marjorie works on Wordle, so the day has truly begun. A mostly typical urban landscape with some British touches coming out of the city, then very green countryside. A herd of deer, sheep, uniformed school children playing soccer. A lovely 2-hour trip to Folkestone at 1:00. Onto a minibus, others onto large buses. The minibus enables us to stop into a “FlexiPlus” lounge, where we can partake of many snacks & take away more in bags (tho silly Marjorie leaves our bag of goodies on the minibus later). We enjoy chatting with guide Keith, 2 years on this job, and 2 young men seated in front of us, one of whom will get Marjorie’s “best dressed” award.

We rendezvous with the other buses at the Chunnel entrance. The 31.35-mile railway tunnel connects Folkestone England with Coquelles France under the English Channel at the Strait of Dover. Tho plans to build a cross-Channel link appeared as early as 1802, this project began 1988 and opened 1994; it was then the most expensive construction project. At its lowest the tunnel is 250’ below sea bed & 380’ below sea level. It has the longest underwater section (23.5 miles) of any tunnel in the world, and is the 3^rd-longest railway tunnel. Train speed limit is 100 mph. An incredible complex of lanes to enter 2 tunnels (plus a smaller service/evacuation tunnel between). While waiting we see a horse outline on a nearby hill with parasailer floating above. A pretty spot with more classic British architecture. We drive into huge containers, a very tight turn for the large buses; sign on the side: “Relax, we’ll drive.” Ears popping as we ride, I get in a little nap. Keith says it’s a “time machine”; an hour later on the other side. To Calais in 30 minutes, past marshy areas.

 

        Now for the main event, boarding the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express while staff serenade us. The train is very long, much more than expected. We’re directed to our carriage & cabin, meet our friendly steward Thibault and greeted with champagne. Wow! So beautiful & luxurious. Each carriage is decorated in a style reflecting where it was made, with beautiful wood paneling & ivory-colored art deco marquetry. And each has a “glamorous history” dating from the early 20^th C. One was used by King Carol of Romania for trysts with his mistress and later to escape with her. Our 1^st-class sleeping carriage “C” built 1929 was used as a wartime brothel in Limoges, France, 1942-45; though it seems that would require some gymnastics in the smallish quarters. 

Twin compartments like ours offer a private lounge during the day, with banquette sofa, footstool, & small table. This converts to bunk beds. Washbasin with hot & cold water enclosed in a cabinet. Toilets are at the end of each carriage. Overhead racks provide space for limited luggage; we were advised that only things needed on the train should be in overnight bag or suit carrier, “through luggage” is stored in baggage vans.

Train moving fast, sun lowering, time for dinner. “Dress to the nines and prepare to be whisked back to an era of elegance and decadence.” It takes me a bit to remember how to tie a tie. We see more of the train walking thru many cars to the restaurant & bar cars. At dinner both men next to us are wearing tuxes, as are a number of others. A leisurely 2½ -hour meal, 4,5,6 courses, who can keep track? The food is excellent. And the wine keeps coming. One of the cooks comes out to chat. At one point we’re serenaded by a duo with banjo & trombone. Great fun! Moon rising as we head back to our cabin, bar car too crowded, too loud for us. Speaking of gymnastics, our steward has reconfigured the cabin with bunk beds. Very tight quarters to change into sleepwear, but we manage. I graciously take the top bunk.

October 3: “Ridin’ the Rails”

 

           We both sleep well on very comfortable beds, tho I’m up early and explore the train a bit more as we’re stopped in Strasbourg. What’s this? – the restaurant & bar cars have mysteriously disappeared from where they were! Not too worry, they reappear later, A beautiful AM, sunny & clear, perfect for mountain viewing. Thibault brings us a delightful continental breakfast after undoing the beds. We speed thru French countryside as the sun rises. Stuck for a while in Basel waiting for tracks to clear ahead of us. It’s also apparent people get on & off at various stops, not everyone is on the same trip. The restaurant manager stops by to say hello, maître d to schedule us for lunch – don’t want to miss a meal!

            After Basel we head into more forested hilly terrain, pretty villages & steeples, farms. The Rhine & Moselle Rivers that we traveled on a Viking River Cruise. Photo ops from side to side as the sun’s angle changes. Past a big pumpkin patch. Haven’t seen much sign of Halloween; maybe they don’t make so much of it here. Not many Fall colors either. Thibault keeps mighty busy: taking down beds, serving breakfast in the cabins, vacuuming floors, etc. As we reach large Lake Zug the high peaks appear in the distance, and then we’re among them. Villages in the valleys, houses perched on the slopes, rushing streams, a steep funicular. So many views, can’t capture them all! Thru many tunnels, one very long one.

 

           A stop at the Italian border. Warmer & hazy, thru flatter agricultural countryside, many vineyards. Told we have a bit later than scheduled ETA for Verona. We’re so sorry (not!) to have to spend more time on the train. Very solicitous staff say they’ll let our scheduled driver pickup know of the delay. A couple more stops, including Milano. Tea & pastries brought to our cabin at 4:00. Then a shouted “Look out!” and a jolt from the brakes. Caused by an approached red light, no injuries. Two lovely young women from Oriental Express direct us out of the station to our waiting driver. Taylor Swift singing on his radio. A drive thru the city to Italia Hotel Verona, in a nice area near the city center.    

 

           A friendly young woman at the front desk offers suggestions on places to eat, tours, internet connection. Another cozy room, a view of apartments & balconies next door. Out to dinner at recommended Pizzeria Ristorante Mameli nearby. A quiet place, friendly staff, many options for pizza (and other options). One category is “Crazy Pizza;” e.g., one with “secret ingredients,” another “depends on the mood of the maker.” Speaking of crazy, there is no uber here! A court ruled in 2017 in a suit by a taxi association that uber was “unfair competition,” banning it in Italy. So we’ll do more walking. Back to the hotel after a good dinner. In the news: A GOP battle begins over ousting Speaker McCarthy, and eventually leads to his ouster.

October 4: “Fair Verona”

            We both sleep well. Down to the nice buffet breakfast room. A mix today of cloudy & hazy sun, comfortable temps but humid. Today we begin our explorations of Verona. The "City of Love," with its red- & peach-colored medieval buildings & Roman ruins, is one of Italy’s major tourist draws. Shakespeare immortalized the city in Romeo and Juliet, The Two Gentlemen of Verona, & The Taming of the Shrew. Founded by Romans in the 1^st C, Verona emerged as a city-state in the 12^th C. After a brief period of Milanese rule, it fell under the control of Venice in 1405. Verona became a prestigious urban capital, but the city fell to Napoleon in 1797, then Austria, became part of Italy in 1866. Spoiler alert: Verona proves to be an exceptionally beautiful city. Piazzas & streets lined with beautiful buildings & facades, shops & restaurants, churches. Wonderful views every which way you look!

 

           A walk thru the neighborhood, past a pretty park, to Ponte Garibaldi over the Adige River, pretty views. Still more walking (45 minutes altogether, did I mention no ubers!) to rendezvous with a scheduled 2- hour walking tour beginning at Theatre Ristori. 

The Theatre, opened in 1837, is named for Adelaide Ristori, the greatest Italian actress of the 19^th C. Closed in1983, it was purchased by the Cariverona Foundation in 2001 and reopened. It is considered a “high example” of 19^th C theatrical architecture. It also seems to be a popular meeting point; 2 other tours, for wine & for cooking, are also meeting here. We have a small group, 6 other tourists & guide Priscilla, very energetic and able to provide interesting info & stories without getting bogged down in too many details.

 

           Priscilla begins with, what else!, Romeo & Juliet, the “true story” you might say. The original story comes from an early novella about “tragic lovers,” a story then used by other writers & poets, including Shakespeare. We start the walk, over Ponte di Castelvecchio, guitarist serenading us in the middle. As on other European bridges, “lovers’ locks” are on some grating. The Castelvecchio (“Old castle”), built in 1355, hosts a major museum. The bridge has been described as “the most beautiful, most medieval, most arched bridge of all time.” Almost destroyed in 1945 when fleeing German troops blew up all of Verona’s bridges, rebuilt to look like the original. We’re told Verona is a World Heritage City, reflecting “the integrity of fortified structures, including the city walls.” Various dynasties with links to Venice. 

Into a pretty courtyard and excavation of an old chiesa that has just begun. Mozart posed for a portrait here at 14; you can actually read the music in the painting. Priscilla plays his “Allegro Veronaise” on her phone. To huge Piazza Bra. Past a Roman Arena, older than the Rome Colosseum, seats 25,000, still used for performances of opera & other events. 

Nearby is a starting place and billboards for the Orienteering World Cup, 1^st held in 1986. This is the 3^rd & last site this year (after Norway & Czech Republic). Country teams compete in individual & relay events using maps & compasses to navigate a course. 

We continue along pretty streets, colorful storefronts.

            Next Priscilla leads us into a retail store. Is this now a shopping tour? No, into the basement to see unearthed ruins of a very old house in the midst of clothing racks! “Pretty cool,” says Marjorie. 

Next to Casa di Giulietta, a 14^th C house supposedly the Capulets’ home; actually, the Cappellettis, and a small balcony overlooking the courtyard wasn't added until the 20^th C! The courtyard is mobbed, people posing with a statue of Juliet, and grabbing a breast for love & fertility. Hasn’t the poor girl been thru enough? 

Continuing on, so many statues, beautiful facades in every direction. A very pensive statue of Dante in Piazza dei Signori; he found political exile here. A large outdoor marketplace in Piazza delle Erbe, site of chariot races and the 1368 statue of Madonna Verona, symbol of Verona. The bell tower rings at noon, concluding a very nice tour. Another adventure: trying to use a nearby ATM with no English instruction. Helped by a very friendly woman who has lived in the US. “Mille Gracie!”

            Back to the pizzeria for lunch. Out to find a travel agent suggested by hotel desk staff, but she is unable (or unwilling) to contact British Air for us to help clear up an e-mail indicating more info needed for our flights (more on that tomorrow). By now all the walking has us pretty pooped, time to relax at the hotel. In the news: A bedbug panic in France. Europe is setting heat records for October.

 

           A bit refreshed, I go out to explore more. Briefly into nearby Chiesa di San Giorgio Braida. From there to Ponte Garibaldi and along the Fiume Adige to Ponte Pietra. A lovely stroll, views of a Basilica & the Duomo across the river, rapids past the bridge. 

Dinner at “our” pizzeria, a nice atmosphere of regulars, families. Some unusual pizza toppings on the menu: donkey, hare, boar, and horse frays (famous cook Gordon Ramsey offers “22 Ways to Cook Horse Meat – Italian Cuisine” on the internet). We opt for a less adventurous combo of bruschetta, cheeses, & wine. After dinner we spot a small war memorial shrine across the street, not far from a Carne Equine shop. I continue down to the river for beautiful night-time views.

 October 5: “Hopping Around”

            Up early, I sit in the lobby with the resident cat. A beautiful AM, cool & sunny. After breakfast we repeat my night-time walk along the river, more photo ops in the lovely AM light. A string of buildings at the other end of the bridge adorned with many flowers. 

To Basilica di Sant’ Anastasia, a short wait to enter. Nearby plaque of the Sociedad a Dante Alighieri with a passage from his Divine Comedy about “Virgine Madre.” Inside the church: Wow! The city’s largest church, considered its finest example of Gothic architecture, tho the facade remains unfinished. A 14^th C campanile bell tower is adorned with frescoes & sculptures. The interior is highlighted by two famous gobbi (hunchbacks) supporting holy-water fonts, a patterned pavement, and 16 side chapels with 15^th & 16^th C paintings & frescoes. Three aisles are supported by 12 pillars in red Veronese marble.

            We decided to reduce our walking to see more of the city on a Hop On- Hop Off coach. A short wait to hop on by the Basilica, time for coffee & croissant in nearby Cafeteria Bistro. 

There’s just enough room on the bus for us; sadly, no up-top open air seating. Earphones for audio narration. We go thru different commercial & residential areas, many photo ops this way & that! Past Juliet’s tomb, then an impressive monumental entrance to a cemetery. Views of the old city walls. Up to Castel San Pietro on a high hill overlooking the city. Another Wow! We’re given 2 minutes to get off the bus for photos of the beautiful panoramic city view.

We complete the route, off at the Duomo, built on the ruins of a paleo-Christian church from the late Roman Empire and consecrated in 1187. Statues of holy guards mark the entrance. The interior features rose-colored marble columns, Romanesque carvings, early Christian artifacts, and wall paintings. One chapel contains the Cathedral’s “principal treasure”: Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin. The cathedral is impressive, but not as beautiful as the Basilica in our view.

            After a “gelato lunch,” including my favorite stracciatella flavor, to nearby Piazza Erbe to stroll thru the many stalls. Fancy masks a major item. Some purchases are made. Back to the hotel, stopping at a nearby Milagros grocery for wine (for us) and more items for people back home.

            Now it’s time to check in with British Air for tomorrow’s flights, Verona to London, London to JFK. Getting & keeping Wi-Fi & internet connections has been a bit of a struggle here. Hotel desk staff help, so that seems OK now. But it becomes a real “adventure” when we try to navigate British Airways’ website to first respond to an e-mail about “information needed” and then check into our return flights. The info I’d provided well before the trip on passports & such seems not to have been captured by BA, and we encounter other issues logging on. Eventually, we’re able to get me checked in for both flights, but unable to get Marjorie checked in for the 2^nd flight. Nothing to do but try to clear this up at the airport tomorrow morning.

            We (optimistically) pack for the flights home. In the news: The 45-day-long cricket World Cup is beginning in India. Global temps for September are the warmest on record; “gob-smacking bananas,” says one scientist. Dinner at (where else?) our favorite pizzeria. “Hello again!” from our regular waitress.  We chat with Tania, learn she’s from Mauritius, an island country in the Indian Ocean. How’s that for international flavor? We share our tale of woe with our flights. She’s so sweet, gives us her phone # & e-mail, says contact her if we need help. Near us is a family with 3 young children we’ve seen here before. As we leave Marjorie stops to compliment their well-behaved children. Continuing our global experience, they’re from Switzerland.

 

October 6: “All’s Well That Ends Well”

            Another nice AM, mix of sun & clouds. We wake up to 2 questions: Will our scheduled driver be here on time? Will Marjorie be able to join me on the London/JFK flight? After breakfast I stop at the front desk, where they have an e-mail confirming our ride. And the driver is a bit early. Busy traffic but it moves along, we pass schoolchildren riding on the back of motorbikes. 30 minutes to Verona Villafranca Airport airport. Pretty nondescript, not too busy. Still a puzzle checking in; it takes 2-3 agents 30 minutes to finally get her both boarding passes! A short walk to the plane on the tarmac. On time departure. More photo ops: snow-capped mountains, rivers & lakes, crossing the French coast, even a ship on the Channel. Lovely green countryside coming into London Gatwick after a smooth 1:40 flight.

            Ah, but the adventures aren’t over. Gatwick proves annoying & confusing. Tho our bags were checked thru to JFK, we’re told we have to get them at baggage claim after Passport Control and re-check them. When they don’t come out we’re told (as we thought) they’ll be at JFK. But now we have to go up to Departures, go thru screening again, and a long walk past many shops to our gate. Then passports & boarding passes checked twice within 20’ to enter the gate area. Whew! We don’t much like Gatwick. But we’re on our way home! 7 hour flight early into JFK after all the crazies.

            Overcast in NYC. A final battle with Friday night traffic out of the city. Déjà vu signs warn of heavy rain & flooding tonight into tomorrow, but we’re OK. Home at 11:00pm.

 

            Welcome home! Writers strike settled so Colbert is on again. I have to “harvest” the long grass. Marjorie’s art at the Hageman Art Show while we were away nets 2 pieces sold & a bright red 2^nd Place ribbon in Mixed Media!

 

            A very fine trip! We had to weather a few storms, literally & figuratively. But weather was mostly cooperative. We packed well for the climate & train dress code; thanks to Mike for the loan of a garment bag. Got our “steps” in with lots of walking; we both lost a bit of weight on the trip! So many friendly & helpful people thruout the trip. Interesting experiences in London. Verona an especially beautiful city, But the centerpiece was the Orient Express, opulent & decadent as advertised. Still, it would have been interesting to have a murder.