Vermont Inn 2021

 

Vermont Inn

December 2021

           The plan was to have an early celebration of our 50^th anniversary at a Vermont B&B. We’ve enjoyed several such outings, and Fall would be a lovely time. A search in booking.com finds Marble Mansion Inn in Fair Haven VT, looks like a lovely and interesting place. I book for October; a month early anniversary-wise but it seems a good bet we’ll last that long. However, life intrudes in the form of back surgery scheduled a few days later. Given the ongoing COVID pandemic we’re discouraged from traveling to Vermont, which is having a spike in cases. Moving forward in time, rehab from the surgery goes well. Matt et al. are headed south  shortly after Christmas to stay at Marjorie’s cousin Jim & wife Susan’s condo in Naples FL (we’re looking at doing the same in February). Why should they have all the fun? How about rebooking for some holiday decompression in VT between Christmas & New Year’s. We’re not out of the woods on COVID. Thanksgiving brought news of a new “Omicron” variant that is more contagious, combining with the earlier Delta variant to create a surge of cases & hospitalizations. But no restrictions on interstate travel have been instituted, and cases seem mild if vaccinated & boostered as we are. So we’re good to go after a quiet Christmas, just the 2 of us.

         

A light dusting of snow sends us on our way Wed, 12/29. About an 80-mile drive to Fair Haven, up the Northway, cutting below and to the east of Lake George into central Vermont. Overcast brightens, breaks of sun & blue sky, snow on the ground (fulfilling Marjorie’s wish!). Road sign: “Yep! Even the gas stations are nice in Vermont!” Too early for check-in at the Inn, so we continue with pretty mountain views to West Rutland. 1^st stop: Carving Studio & Sculpture Center with Outdoor Sculpture Garden on the grounds of a marble quarry. A few photos of the seemingly random array of finished & unfinished sculptures amid the snowy grounds. Another scenic stop at West Rutland Marsh Overlook. 

Into Rutland looking for pieces along the downtown Sculpture Trail (do you sense a theme?). With some searching we’re able to find a combination of free-standing sculptures and others embedded in walls, painted murals, and decorated benches amid pretty buildings along several streets. 

A stop at nearby The Curiosity Shop. Do we need to feed the parking meters? Shopkeeper: “Oh yeah! He’s new on the job.” The shop has Vermont written all over it, a real “Mary place” Marjorie exclaims, referencing her antique hound sister.

Back west, then north on a pretty drive past open meadows, views of the Green, Taconic, & Adirondack Mountains, and clever hay-bale snowmen to Hubbardton Battlefield Historic Site. Another lovely place for a war. The July 7, 1777 Revolutionary War battle was the only one fought entirely in what would become Vermont. Considered one of the most successful “rear-guard actions” in American history, it showed stiffening American resistance and led to the 1st victory at the Battle of Bennington. Establishing Hubbardton Battlefield was one of the earliest attempts to preserve a Revolutionary War site; the marble battle monument placed in 1859 is one of the oldest. 

         

On to Castleton, lots of pretty houses remind us of Stockbridge MA. Bird’s Eye Diner proves a perfect lunch spot. A drive around Castleton University, but not very picturesque. 

North along Lake Bomoseen with pretty reflections. Past a house with pretty much every Christmas image; tho no unicorn (like a house near us) Marjorie notes. 

Into Fair Haven, “the Slate Center of the Nation,” first settled in 1779 as a mill town on the falls of the Castleton River; the 1st slate quarries opened mid-1800s.. A large village green, gazebo decorated inside and a group of carolers (not real) next to it, surrounded by examples of Victorian architecture including our Inn visible on the other side, Pretty downtown. Friendly shopkeeper at “Finders Keepers.” Nearby “Goldenberry’s Apothecary” looks intriguing but only open Sat/Sun.

 

A tip directs us to a thrift shop in nearby Poultney. Marjorie pokes around, I have photo ops: Poultney River & Falls, Green Mountain College (much more picturesque than Castleton U).

Time to check in. The Marble Mansion Inn, built 1867 by prominent businessman Ira Allen (the nephew of a cousin of patriot Ethan Allen, we learn), was in the family until 1975, then changed hands a number of times between 1975 and 2009, both private residence and at times an inn, now owned by Greg & Sharon Parke. Listed on the National Historic Registry, the 22-room French Second Empire mansion has mansard roof, belvidère, & porte cochère. 12 rooms on 3 floors named after classic authors – we’re in William Shakespeare, a lovely room on the 2^nd floor in front overlooking the green, with king pillow top bed, antique armoires, and working marble fireplace. The Inn is also home to 3 cats & a dog (plus a pair of parakeets); but a “no pets” policy “to avoid conflict.”

An evening stroll onto the green, lighted tree & gazebo. Some lighting on the Inn and other buildings. 

Back to the Bird’s Eye for dinner, enjoying Christmas lights along the way. Some TV to relax after a very busy day. A “Dogs of the Year” special honors hero dogs. A first traveling night with my CPAP.

Thurs.. 12/30. I’m up early as usual to drive around for photo ops. A resident cat scoots in as I leave. To Proctor’s Marble Bridge across Otter Creek, Built in 1915, a well-preserved example of early concrete bridge construction decoratively faced in local marble. Driving back as the sun rises, pretty low clouds among the mountains.

Our 1^st Inn breakfast. Lovely dining room & sun room. A yummy menu: cheese frittata, bacon baked in maple syrup (Oh my!), fresh muffins.

Marjorie joins me for a drive back to Proctor. We’re able to locate Gorham & Cooley Covered Bridges (it’s Vermont, after all!). We also manage to locate Wilson Castle, another 19^th C mansion, but closed. The Vermont Marble Museum here also closed. 

Not to worry, we head for the New England Maple Museum in Pittsford. A friendly place, lots to see on the history of maple sugaring from Native American to present day depicted in over 100’ of murals hand-painted by a local artist. The most complete collection of maple sugaring artifacts, dioramas, & a short film. Tasty samples of maple syrup, the official flavor of Vermont. Marjorie chats with a local artist. Earlier fog & low clouds give way to nice sun & blue sky. Keith’s Country Store & Deli for coffee & cookies.

To Rutland again and the Chaffee Art Center, housed in a Queen Anne Victorian Mansion built 1895. The house itself is quite an exhibit: a variety of European and Middle Eastern architectural styles, an exterior 1^st-floor foundation of machine-cut marble blocks, a 3-story corner tower with gothic windows, an elegant porte-cochere, elaborate parquet floors, elegant moldings, trim cut from birds’ eye maple & tiger oak. Beautiful and very colorful art spread throughout the house. 

Marjorie looks into a couple of resale shops while I drive around a bit more. Then a short drive further east to pretty views of the Killington ski area. 

Back to the Inn to relax before dinner. Time to explore the interior a bit more. Beautifully decorated, including many trees large & small chock full of ornaments. Pretty exterior views to either side.

Our friendly innkeeper Greg recommends Fair Haven Inn for dinner. A bit more upscale, we wonder if we’re dressed OK; his reply: “You’re fine. It’s Vermont!” Oops! We stop at what we think is the Inn, learn others have also mistaken this family home for the Inn behind it. The Inn is beautifully decorated for the holidays. Settled in, studying the Greek cuisine menu, we decide this is our Official 50^th Anniversary Fancy Night Out. Our friendly waitress is herself visiting from Greece, her mother is the owner. A fine meal.

Back to the Inn, family phone calls to wrap up the day. Matt & family have successfully made their flights to Florida in the midst of many flight cancellations caused by COVID-related staff shortages. One hitch: their return flights have been cancelled! But they can enjoy their stay at Jim & Susan’s condo; Anthea: “I think I’m in heaven!” Another call to find that Jim is doing well after a medical procedure. So things are good with family, we can settle in for the night.

New Year’s Eve arrives, I’m up & out early again, cat joining me out the door. Some atmospheric predawn photos at Lake Bomoseen, photos of a small waterfall in Fair Haven. A familiar voice on the radio: it’s Sugar T of 88.3 “The Saint” (station for Siena College near us)! A stop to fill up with cheaper (by 25¢ a gallon) Vermont gas. 

Back to the Inn for another yummy breakfast highlighted by an egg/sausage casserole & orange scones. A foggy ride home. I’d thought about lunch along the way at Skene Manor, a Victorian mansion in Whitehall NY south of Lake Champlain, but it’s closed. Whitehall also has the unexpected title as birthplace of the US Navy, a fleet built by Benedict Arnold. Back home about 10:30. Rainy PM & next day.

 

This was a fine, relaxing post-holiday outing, especially for Marjorie who is always super busy thruout the Christmas season. Weather was cooperative, including picturesque snow on the ground. A lovely & friendly place to stay. A variety of interesting & scenic options; some things closed, but plenty to do. It was nice to have lovely Christmas decorations still around. And no COVID problems, even as cases surge around the country. Happy New Year!