Saratoga Birthday

 

Saratoga Birthday

September 2020 

 What to do in the midst of a pandemic for Marjorie’s “Birthday Festival” (as she likes to call it)? A new garage door installed, but that doesn’t seem quite the thing. William Shatner sings to her on an e-card, courtesy of Jeff like my Dolly Parton BD serenade. I cater cheesecake for her church discussion group at our house, tho they leave too quickly so we’ll have to eat it all. Still not enough ˗ and she’s complaining there’s no marching band! A surprise overnight should do the trick. Plus good forecasts thru the weekend: sunny & cool (into the 30s, highs about 60). 

 

 Been getting an itch to plan some kind of trip. 1^st choice Washington Inn in Saratoga has just closed. But a search on booking.com finds the intriguing Batcheller Mansion Inn, a Victorian Gothic mansion built 1873 by George Sherman Batcheller. He held diplomatic positions under various U.S. Presidents, including as a judge in the International Courts of Egypt. Some of Saratoga’s grandest parties were staged here, hosting Presidents, European royalty, dignitaries, and Hollywood celebrities. Condemned by the city in 1973, new owners saved and renovated it, opening an Inn in 1994. Featured on HGTV's “Front Door” series and named Inn of the Month in April ‘99 by Country Inns, the Mansion is listed on several “haunted house” websites; both staff & visitors have reported meeting Mr. Batcheller’s ghost. Sounds fascinating. Turns out artist friend Dee Foley’s daughter had a lovely wedding reception here. And they have comprehensive COVID procedures, from sanitized room keys to “grab & go” breakfasts.

We head off Saturday AM after nervously “arming” our ADT home security system for the 1^st time. No alarm, so we did it correctly! Crisp and clear, fall in the air. To Northway Exit 15 and Wilton Mall, site of the Saratoga Farmers’ Market. Lots of vendors, colorful produce, live music . . . and cider donuts! 

A short drive into town, first views of the Mansion but we’ll check in later. We 1^st go looking for Mrs. Riggi’s over-the-top Halloween decorations, but nothing’s out. On to the Beekman Street Arts District ˗ a pretty neighborhood but everything’s quiet here, too. 

Better luck walking thru Congress Park. Lots of ducks eager to be fed; Marjorie is amused when they go bottoms up. 

Beautiful views of ponds, monuments, and sculptures, including iconic “Spit & Spat” fountains. 

While browsing Broadway shops Marjorie gets a lunch tip from artist friend Tom Myott. A patio table at Druthers. The Birthday Girl goes wild: a Druthers Burger with French fries! I’m no better: Druthers Mac & Cheese & a chocolate shake. Thanks, Tom! 

More wandering after lunch, pretty shops & colorful sidewalk dining.

Silverwood Gallery highlights Tom’s beautiful horse-racing-themed art.

It’s time to check in to the Inn. A beautifully exotic exterior, combining French Renaissance, Italian, and Egyptian styles. A red & gray slate roof, dormers accented by clamshell arches. An ivory stucco facade studded by ornate bays. A conical tower resembling a minaret. It takes on different looks as the sun moves around during the day. Pretty grounds, highlighted by bright red holly berries.

Emily greets us and gives an orientation tour. Beautiful woodwork thruout, marble fireplaces, 1800’s Batcheller family furnishings and other items on loan from museums. Common spaces include a richly decorated foyer with grand staircase; parlor with carved fireplace & doors, grand piano, 12’ French windows; 

dining room & library are similarly sumptuous, with a large porch off the latter; 

the more modern kitchen includes original oil copies of works by Van Gogh, Picasso, and other masters. 

Library & parlor have scrapbooks of family & renovation photos, books of old newspaper articles collected by a local woman. 

We’re in the nicely furnished and a bit quirky 3^rd-floor Roosevelt Room. Teddy was an avid horseman, hence 4,000 horses on the wallpaper. A “Happy Birthday” greeting from staff on the bed.

The bathroom has angled door, ceilings, & mirror over the sink, small windows to fit into a tower.

A neighborhood stroll takes us a few blocks to Union Ave. Many beautiful houses, 

lots of lawn jockeys (we’re not far from the track, after all). Locally-appropriate pandemic signs: “Stay on Pointe,” “Spring for Cleanliness”. Past Beagle School, a preschool, and Waldorf School, a private school pre-K to 12. A number of buildings affiliated with SUNY Empire State College; didn’t know Saratoga is the headquarters of this combo on-line/on-site program. 

Walking back to the Inn offers a different hilltop perspective down on Congress Park. 

Out again as the sun is lowering, a short drive to the “Camp Saratoga” section of Wilton Wildlife Preserve. This was a Boy Scout Camp 1930-2001, and the empty and rundown buildings seem a bit eerie. But Delegan Pond is lovely reflecting the setting sun. Looking for dinner we stumble upon a fast-food offshoot of Hattie’s Chicken Shack, a Saratoga institution since 1938, in a strip mall. Take-out of the signature Southern fried chicken to eat back at the Inn. After-dinner views of the spotlighted Mansion.

        

  I take a walk as the sun rises next AM. Painted sculptures along the sidewalks: horses, a lion, even ballet shoes. Pretty views downtown and thru Congress Park. Back to the Inn for a good breakfast in the dining room, joined by 3 other couples safely-distanced.

A short drive west to Rowland Hollow Creek Preserve, part of Saratoga PLAN (Preserving Land and Nature), a private nonprofit dedicated to helping “preserve the rural character, natural habitats and scenic beauty of Saratoga County.” A beautiful walk thru woods with tall trees full of dramatic spiky branches. No luck finding Saratoga County Homestead, an abandoned TB sanatorium. 

But heading out of Saratoga we pull into another farmers’ market at the entrance to the Spa State Park. I’ve passed & admired the beautiful flowers here when coming to play golf, this gives an excuse to stop for photos. A short stay then back home.

One very sad note: the passing of Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, the “Notorious RBG.” This immediately creates unseemly political arguments over her successor. Otherwise a fine weekend. Excellent weather. A wonderful stay at the Inn, elegant and friendly, nicely situated; tho Marjorie seems disappointed that Mr. Batcheller was a no-show. Many beautiful things to see in and around Saratoga. The Birthday Girl is pleased. 

Later that same Fall we did a leaf-peeping trip up to Saratoga National Battlefield Park.