Alaska

Alaska

May/June 2001

Tues., May 22:

          We awake to a drizzly day after a very dry spell.  We've put together our own "cruisetour": independent for the land portion of Anchorage, Seward, and Denali, with a rental car to get around; a Princess "Inside Passage" cruise from Seward to Vancouver; then an add-on visit with friends Stew & Patty in Seattle. I feel prepared from reading Michener’s Alaska for background.  Now it’s off to our Alaska adventure . . . eventually.  We finish cleaning up for friends, Marlene & Frank, who’ll be here a couple of nights while we’re gone.  We should have houseguests every time we travel so we’ll come back to a neat, clean house.  Packing not as efficient as for Europe, but we’ll need only 3 of the 6 luggage tags sent by Princess.  Unlike our usual crack of dawn starts, we leave Albany at the civilized time of 11.  But the trip takes 16 hours, 3 flights (Albany to Chicago to Seattle to Anchorage): 9½ hours flying, the rest “lounging” in airports.  At least the flights are free, thanks to our credit-card miles.    

To Marjorie’s disdain, I loosen up my shutter finger with shots of Chicago skyline and concourse with flags at O’Hare.  A beautiful view of Mt. Ranier coming into Seattle and sun setting on Olympic Mts. after takeoff.  In a seat ahead of us a young mother clutches her own teddy bear; doesn’t mind being in the air, but needs comforting for takeoffs & landings.  On time into Anchorage at 11pm (3am Albany time!).  We pick up our Alamo Buick Century, very comfortable w/ power everything, and head to Parkwood Inn, at the edge of the city convenient to the main north-south road.  Inexpensive and not fancy, but very roomy  w/ sofa, walk-in closet, full kitchen, and what Marjorie deems “the best shower in the world.”  Not very dark yet, even at midnight.  Sunrise here at about 4am, sunset 10:30pm.  Both quite gradual, with 20+ hours of “functional daylight,” as a guidebook puts it.  Temps our first few days in the 40s & 50s, a little cooler than typical.

Wed., May 23: 

          Sunny AM, a nice way to start.  We pull out of the motel to see snow-capped Chugach Mts. looming ahead.  There’s hardly any time on the whole trip we can’t see snowy mountains.  120 miles south to Seward, following a beautiful drive around Turnagain Arm.  Various sights, including effects of tides (37’ here, 2^nd in N. America to Bay of Fundy) and tsunami from 1964 earthquake (stands of trees killed by saltwater and remains of the town of Portage that was flooded).  Our 1^st moose-crossing sign, and a very friendly dog at one turnout we think might have been abandoned.  Lots of snow along the road inland.   

A stop at Exit Glacier outside of Seward; you can walk right up to it on a trail still snow-covered.  It’s still early spring he

re w/ buds on trees (and very large dandelions here and in Anchorage).  Rangers point out local birds: magpies, stellar jays, ravens (Marjorie learns a joke later about the difference between ravens and crows, but can’t remember it). 

          A chillier PM.  To our Harborview Inn.  Seward seems very “Alaska”: nestled on a bay under snow-capped mountains, lots of boats in the harbor, kind of rough around the edges.  

 A tour of Alaska Sealife Center, aquarium & research/rescue facility funded by the settlement from Exxon Valdez oil spill.  We especially enjoy little diving birds.  Out Nash Rd. for views back from across the bay.  We skip an “Ididaride” sled dog experience: too expensive when all Marjorie wants is to pet Husky puppies.  We see a lot of places linked to sled dog racing the first few days.  First dinner not very “native”: Greek pizza & salad.  But good Alaskan beer, very friendly waitress who really loves it here.  We meet a lot of people who just love the lifestyle and lack of crowds here.  After-dinner drive along the bay.  Not a ritzy area: ramshackle houses, RV parks; but beautiful scenery.  Our first wildlife: a porcupine by the road.  Into a grocery store: pretty expensive (though gas isn’t), but no sales or income tax here.  We also learn in other places that housing, milk, bread, etc. can be quite expensive.  TV stations an odd mix: Denver NBC station here, so Leno’s at 8:30, LA stations in the hotel in Denali.

Thurs., May 24: 

            I wake up on Albany time  ̶  about 3:30!  Breakfast at a little bakery by the harbor.  Rain most of the AM until our boat tour of Kenai Fjords Nat’l Park at 11:30, but we’re told cloudy is better than sun for wildlife viewing, and seas are calmer than yesterday.  We’ll see tidewater glaciers today from the same icefield as Exit Glacier.  

Nice weather when we start and later a mix of sun, clouds, squalls  ̶  an interesting variety of weather and lighting conditions.  Our very droll captain reminds us of Chris on “Northern Exposure.”  He says they keep all the good salmon here, send leftovers to “the lower 48” (a phrase we hear a lot). Fantastic scenery, lots of wildlife: orcas (killer whales) and humpback whales, both w/ babies, sea lions, bears, puffins, sea otters, harbor seals, eagles. 

 

To a different glacier (Aialik) than planned to avoid other boats; we drift amid the ice w/ no talking (orders from the captain).  All we hear are snaps and rumbles from the glacier.  An almost mystical experience.  So much to see that we run overtime to 6½ hours, have to radio ahead to hold the train for some of our group, including friendly tablemate from Washington DC.  Back to Anchorage and the Parkwood Inn, a quick dinner at Applebee’s. 

Fri., May 25: 

          The hotel manager was a history student at SUNY-Albany (where I’m a prof) in the 1960s.  She says the SUNY architect also did some buildings on a campus in Anchorage.  We have a 240-mile drive ahead to Denali Nat’l Park.  A good, fast road, not a lot of traffic (tho plenty of tour buses and campers).  What’s with all the espresso shops around here, many with drive-thru (and often combined with things like slushees)?  And lots of fireworks companies in Houston, AK.  Symbols from the pretty state map (big dipper and star on dark blue background) are common on road signs & other banners.  A good breakfast at Windbreaker Cafe in Wasilla; big fish on the walls and a canoe hanging from the ceiling manned by teddy bears.  We get our 1^st view (we think) of Mt. McKinley from Denali State Park; clouds around the top but impressive nonetheless.  And our first mosquito, the unofficial state bird.  When it gets marshy in 1-2 weeks they’ll be ferocious.  Lots of snow on the ground here, some snow squalls.  

 Then it’s more bare, colder & windier, when we get to the Nat’l Park and Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge.  We originally reserved at another, cheaper place about 10 miles from the park, but coincidentally Princess bought that and closed it for renovation.  They offered a room at their lodge by the park entrance for the same price we reserved (about ½ the usual rate at the lodge).  Not being stupid, we agreed and enjoy the more luxurious room and wonderful view from the grounds. 

          After snack of latte & muffins, 15 miles into the park (all that’s allowed for private cars).  Vegetation becomes sparser as we drive along, more scrub brush, and some distant caribou.  Pretty vistas & higher clouds make peaks visible  ̶  Mt. McKinley?  We have an evening at the Alaska Cabin Nite Dinner Theater: family-style salmon & ribs w/ lots of trimmings, sing-a-longs, Alaska stories & songs.  Audience participation, including Dangerous Dan McGrew recruited from our table.  A fun time.  Have to maneuver around tour buses to leave.  We get some breakfast stuff to have in our room before our very early tour tomorrow.

Sat., May 26:

          A nice day: good visibility, calmer & warmer, quite sunny after noon.  Our Tundra Wildlife Tour begins at 5:30am!  When we made reservations it was expected to be an abbreviated 4-5 hour tour (and discounted price) because roads wouldn’t be open all the way, but the road opened today, so we’re the 1^st to go the full 53 miles into park.  A beautiful 7½ hour tour.  A jolly group, box lunches, excellent guide/driver with lots of information about animals, vegetation, geology, history, and personal stories about camping, hiking, mountain-climbing.  A former Elderhostel instructor, she puts in a plug for programs in Alaska and elsewhere.   We see a variety of tundra areas, below & above tree line.  It’s drier this side of the mountains; much more snow falls to the south where we’d driven yesterday.  We’re glad to see snow on the mountains, since it will be mostly gone by summer. 

 

Another wonderful success for wildlife viewing!: many groups of caribou near and crossing the road, Dall sheep, falcon, snowshoe hares, 2 pairs of moose including calf, grizzly bear & cub, lots of ptarmigans (quail-like state bird, male quite colorful), Arctic squirrels.  Guide points out Mt. McKinley in the distance; good fortune, since it’s visible only 30% of the time (still not sure whether we actually saw it yesterday).

          Back to Anchorage.  Spring takes greater hold as we go south: greener, buds then leaves.  A pretty drive, sun on snow-capped mountains.  Windbreaker Cafe again for dinner.  Into WalMart for a few items; it’s the same everywhere.  

  A visit to Eklutna, a native community with historic area: Russian Orthodox churches & cemetery w/ brightly decorated “spirit houses” above graves.  Then back to “home base,” the Parkwood Inn.  It’s a beautiful evening, we head out to Earthquake Park, an interpretive trail about the 9.2 earthquake on Good Friday 1964, the biggest damage coming from tsunamis.  Nearby Woronzov Pt. gives nice view of Cook Inlet, city, mountains.  We get breakfast stuff for the next 2 days at Fred Meyer, a 1-stop shopper’s delight that’s common here: we use it for groceries, gas, floss, socks, and don’t even scratch the surface.

Sun., May 27: 

          Bright sunny day, warmer now (mid-60s).  Mass at St. Patrick’s, at the base of the Chugach Mts.  A simple, pretty sanctuary: mosaic window and pastel banners behind the altar, views of mountains out side window (a parishioner calls it “God’s stained glass”).  Guitars with singers, priest from India (the “Parochial Vicar,” which we learned back home means associate pastor) w/ 3 little native Alaskan altar boys.  Their first Archbishop was from Albany.   

Then off to nearby Alaska Native Heritage Center.  A central Welcome House w/ dancers, storytellers, craftpersons (“fur, feathers, fiber” this year’s theme).  Interesting chat with a fellow making beautifully decorated drums.  5 tribal groups represented at native buildings around a small lake, a host at each giving info about buildings, living arrangements, culture, etc. (this reminds us of the Polynesian Cultural Center in Hawaii).  It’s very interesting to see tribal differences reflecting varying environments and resources. 

          In the afternoon we poke around downtown Anchorage and into shops.  Pretty murals of whales and a relief map of Alaska, Performing Arts Center w/ park.  After a bit of confusion we find Resolution Park, Capt. Cook statue overlooking the bay.  Top of Mt. McKinley visible (131 miles away “as the raven flies,” an Alaskan might say) and Mt. Spurr, which erupted in 1992.  Excellent dinner at Glacier Brewhouse, sampled beers made here.  Pretty banners from annual “Symphony of Seafood” hanging from the ceiling.  Waiter’s going to Chicago to study acting; we tell him he already has a key skill: waiting tables.   

A nice stroll in Alaska Botanical Garden after dinner, including herb garden, tho perennials not far along yet.

Mon., May 28: 

          Another bright sunny AM.  I drop off Marjorie and luggage at Egan Center to connect with Princess, then return the car (we drove almost 1000 miles!).  I share taxi back w/ Dan, retired air force officer headed for the same cruise.  He & Patsy have been married 1 year; high school sweethearts separated for 30+ years, then reconnected after both widowed.  Marjorie & I stroll around, light lunch waiting for the bus to Seward and our ship.  Lots of big stuffed animals  ̶  bears, moose, puffins  ̶  inside & outside stores.  Marjorie makes friends with a moose. We don’t think it’s fair that nobody has stuffed ptarmigans; it’s the state bird, after all.  Onto the bus for a pretty drive again around Turnagain Arm, talkative driver.  Moose in a pond near the road, but none of the beluga whales often seen here. 

Arrive Seward at 3:30, efficient boarding onto our ship, Ocean Princess.  It’s new (2^nd year) and immense: 15 decks, bigger than any other ship we see; we wonder how it compares with the Titanic.  We get our cruise ID (for going on & off and charging onboard extras).  Our stateroom is roomier than expected, good storage (it’s nice to finally unpack), and very quiet.  It’s an inside room (no window or balcony).  It’s odd not to see day or night, or weather.  But we can always go on deck and a TV channel shows continuous views from the bridge. 

  

We explore a bit: well-equipped library & game room, beautiful atrium extending several decks, business center (sorry Matt, you’ll get no e-mail from your parents at sea, it’s too expensive), casino, salon, spa, gym, spacious elevator lobbies and staircases with pretty artwork.  We meet our steward, Arlene, from the Phillippines; he seems jollier than most.  Horizon Court buffet for our first meal.  We decided on “Personal Choice” for dining instead of specific seating.  We can eat dinner any time, at one dining room (others are for “seatings”) or the buffet, and did some of each (no, not on the same night!).  Dining rooms more elegant and we enjoy different table companions (sitting w/ the same people every night seems risky if you don’t like them); the buffet has the same food, and you can try all the different entrees, plus there are views of passing scenery.  Excellent food thruout; Marjorie’s only complaint: not enough cookies.   

After dinner we’re “mustered” for an emergency drill (but not the “lifeboat drill” Marjorie had her heart set on).  Our beds are turned down with mints (as every night) when we return to the stateroom.  Quiet, smooth ride pulling out of Resurrection Bay at 10pm.  All the cruising is very smooth, only gentle rocking noticed from time to time.

We look over our 1^st “Princess Patter,” outlining the next day’s activities (every AM our British cruise directors, Trevor and Liz w/ her moose hat, also give humorous orientation for the day on TV).  Lots of things to do each day: art auction (which is pretty lame), wine tasting, dance lessons, games, shuffleboard (but we never see anyone playing), etc.  Lots of bars and live entertainment, from a nice string quartet playing in various locations, to comedians & singers in lounges, to large stage productions with singers & dancers (which we only peek in at).  We’re not very interested in most of the entertainment.  Incredible scenery is always outside.  TV in the stateroom has programs about the ship, the history of Princess, info on shore excursions, videos of onboard talks, weather & info on the ship’s position, Discovery programs produced for Princess, a movie channel, plus ESPN, CNN, TNT.  We even spot “Love Boat” reruns; that was filmed on Princess ships.  The ship is full: over 2000 passengers, nearly 900 crew.  A mix of ages: average age a bit older than us, but also younger people (many are part of family groups).  Few children, tho they have special programs for them.  One entire wedding party on board.

Tues., May 29: 

          Awake to cruising in College Fjord; glaciers all around.  Commentary broadcast thruout the ship by author/naturalist Michael Modzelewski.  He later gives a talk on 2 years living in the wilderness and the value of “doing without;” seems ironic for a cruise audience being pampered at every turn.  His name is familiar: I learn his father played football for the Browns, his uncle for the Giants when I was a kid.  His wife is an attendant with Continental, but she’s not sure if she knows our pilot friend.  Cloudy bright w/ some sprinkles.  Walkers on the promenade deck.  Our first buffet breakfast (plates are huge, so it doesn’t seem like you’re taking so much) w/ views in all directions.   

Lunch buffet (yep, lots of eating) while cruising out of Prince William Sound into Gulf of Alaska.  We can see whales spouting.  Calm “at sea” & sunny.  We skip a shuffleboard tournament; I take a nap, M goes wandering.  

 Later to tea in one of the fancy dining rooms (yep, more food): little sandwiches, scones, cookies.  Our first “formal” night for a Welcome Aboard dinner.  This is our first dining room experiences, sharing table w/ a nice couple from Philly.  Friendly waitstaff, including a young woman from Romania.  It would be interesting to see a breakdown of the crew by nationality.  Officers & cruise directors British, other staff from many different countries.

Wed., May 30: 

We spend all day in Glacier Bay, rangers on board to give commentary, tho we found Ranger Fawn a bit too breathless in her delivery.  Glaciers here are receding relatively quickly: park area was full of glaciers at the end of the 18^th C, now filling in around open bays with vegetation & animals, surrounded by snowy peaks up to 15,000’.  Incredible beauty!  Whales spouting, sometimes 5-6 at a time, outside the park entrance.  A pretty AM: clouds, some low among mountains, and some sun.  It’s quite brisk, people on the bow all bundled up; becomes mostly sunny & warmer after breakfast, then cloudier after lunch.  

 We “park” at Margerie (no glaciers named Russell, tho) and Grand Pacific (much darker because of rocks & debris carried by the ice) Glaciers to watch & listen: cracking, snapping, calving.  Beautiful, tho it seemed more dramatic in Kenai Fjords  ̶  the smaller boat got closer and was surrounded by larger floating ice, people were much quieter.  Many birds, very noisy black-legged kittiwakes (cute little gulls).  Some light rain by late PM.  A pleasant dinner w/ 2 couples who became friends on the land part of their cruisetour.  We watch “Remember the Titans” on the ship’s movie channel.  Despite being onboard all day, our legs are tired from walking & climbing stairs to counteract the omnipresent food.

Thurs., May 31:

We dock at Skagway, 1^st port & shore excursions.  A bit delayed arriving after a stop at Juneau to transfer someone who had a heart attack during the night.  Light rain in the AM.  A busy port: 3 other cruise ships, flightseeing float planes & helicopters flying around.  It’s interesting to see the crew lined up to use phones on shore at every port.  Ship emblems painted on rocks by the dock.  

 We split up for our AM excursions.  I do Historical Skagway & Days of ’98.  Narrated bus tour thru town.  Many original buildings, since there’s never been a fire, many former brothels (common in these Gold Rush ports).  Skagway Museum w/ historical artifacts and exhibits on local native cultures.  

Up to an overlook w/ a view of the town, harbor, ships surrounded by snowy mountains.  Brighter now, some sun peeking thru.  Tour finishes w/ “Days of ’98” stage show.  Robert Service verses as a warmup, including “The Cremation of Sam McGee,” then music, comedy, and history in a short play about Soapy Smith, local con-man/gangster during the Gold Rush era.  Afterward I walk around Skagway, then back to the ship for lunch (don’t want to miss a meal!).  

 Marjorie does the smaller (15 people) Alaska Garden and Gourmet Tour.  They also do Skagway tour & museum, but mostly at Skagway Inn: picking their own salads from a garden, wine-tasting, gourmet 4-course lunch.  And M dazzles everyone by knowing the meaning of “posh” (port outbound, starboard home) and that it refers to upper-class passage between England and India.  [I had learned this from one of British colleague John’s discursive lunch conversations.]  M’s tour sounded more interesting than mine. 

          We reconnect for White Pass Scenic Railway, following the path stampeders took on foot over the mountains to the Klondike gold rush.  20 miles to nearly 3000’ elevation at the Canadian border.  Interesting narration by our guide, including more Robert Service verses (and reprise of “Sam McGee”).  Sunnier, warmer by mid-PM.  Fabulous, rugged country: rushing streams, waterfalls and river canyon, snowy mountains (yep, those again!), high wooden trestles.  The route is a marvel, designated one of 21 world civil engineering landmarks.  Lush vegetation in woods that changes as elevation increases, high snow banks still at the summit.  At some points we can see other trains ahead or behind.  Back to the ship.  I go up on the bridge, but no fun: too many “Do Not Touch” signs!  An Italian buffet dinner, tiramisu for dessert later.  Into Vista Lounge to see magic/comedy by Trevor, plus entertaining Chinese acrobatic troupe.

Fri., June 1:

  

          Docked at Juneau, largest city in the US (in square miles) and the only capital that can’t be reached by land.  Partly sunny & cool.  A narrated bus tour to Rain Forest Garden Adventure, a rain forest area hit by a landslide now turned into a beautiful, unique garden.  Spruce trees upended into the ground w/ lush plantings in the root areas now on top.  Expected elves to dance around.  Trams take us thru lush rain forest to 600’ overlook with valley & mountain views.  

 We enjoy lunch views later of seaplanes landing in the harbor and another snowy mountain looming on the other side.  

 Sunny warm PM to stroll separately around Juneau: Marine Park (with sculpture of Patsy the official “welcoming dog”), historical landmarks (Red Dog Saloon, Alaska Hotel), lots of shops.  Our paths cross for ice cream.  

 Back on board for an interesting program by Libby Riddles, 1^st woman to win the Iditarod Sled Dog Race (Anchorage to Nome).  People lounging in & around pools as an eagle (“Juneau pigeon”) glides low above them.  After the ship leaves port we watch “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” in the main theatre.  Semiformal dress tonight; women on our AM tour had pondered which outfit to wear, which isn’t an issue for light packers like us.  French menu, nice table companions again, Japanese woman & parents from San Francisco.  Pretty lowering sun on the mountains.  One of the prettiest days of the trip, weather and scenery combined.  Someone takes our photo with Trevor, who answers some questions about crew contracts and living/eating areas.  (Photos are also taken at various times by ship staff which can be purchased; we pass.)  Pretty evening view of another ship all lighted up passing by.

Sat., June 2:

          We’re anchored mid-channel off Ketchikan; there are 5 cruise ships, too many for the dock.  Pretty sun/clouds when we arrive, brisk/mostly cloudy AM.  After breakfast we see about 15 eagles nearby circling low and swooping to catch fish with their talons; another incredible Alaska scene!  And many floatplanes flying in & out.  Guide later says ¼ of Alaskans have pilot license (not sure I believe that!).  We have to take a tender into the dock; only a 5 minute ride, but an hour wait because everybody is headed in for the AM.  A “March for Jesus” down Front St. as we arrive.  Pick your poison here: it’s the “rain capital of the world” (240 days, 162” per year) or the “#1 shopping port.”  No rain for us, but a little shopping.  It’s a busy place, not as quaint as expected: first stoplights we’ve seen in a while, lots of shops, 5 ships worth of shoppers (probably more than the town’s population).  Pretty Creek St. has buildings on stilts above water.  

A stop at Dolly’s House, former brothel now a museum.  I start to take a picture of “Madame Curator,” but she mischievously insists on a tip which, of course, has to be placed in her garter.  Marjorie takes photo evidence.  The house is quite interesting, including our wedding Franciscan china in the dining room and bathroom floral decorations made of condoms (a special skill of Dolly’s).  We skip lunch!  But not to worry, we snack at the buffet after returning to the ship.  On to the Totem & Town Tour.  Narrated bus ride thru residential areas in steep hills and past local industry; big surprise: fish and wood processing.  

 Main stop is Totem Bight State Park.  A pretty rain forest walk (huge skunk cabbage!).  Bright sunshine at the clan house and beautiful totem poles, guide explaining their family and tribal symbolism.  Samples of smoked salmon at museum shop before heading to SE Alaska Discovery Center, a nice little museum back in town.  Returning to the ship, I ride on top of the tender: eagles overhead, floatplanes taking off nearby.  Wow!

          Tomorrow will be at sea, so we pick up some things at the ship library, including a book of writings on Alaska: Jack London, Robert Service, Tlingit and Eskimo legends (e.g., how mosquitoes were created), etc.  People are dressed to the teeth for tonight’s Gala.  We’re not up to it, so have our own buffet “gala,” sampling everything while watching Alaska glide by the windows.  Cloudy/hazy as ship weighs anchor.  A bit more motion tonight, water in the pools sloshing about.

Sun., June 3:

Mostly sunny for breakfast, but no mountains in view.  More rocking motion from swells in Queen Charlotte Strait; not unpleasant, but we take Dramamine to be safe.  To an interdenominational service led by a ship’s officer (sorry, no cruising job here for our friend, Fr. Walsh).  Lots of classic hymns that seem what you’d sing while the ship goes down, ending w/ Marine hymn: “O hear us when we cry to thee for those in peril on the sea.”  Hmmm.  A variety of last-day activities at sea, from ice-carving demo to passenger talent show.  Marjorie takes in a culinary demo and tour of the galley.  The cleanest kitchen she’s ever seen!  And interesting stats: 4300 lbs of meat, 4050 pastries, 320 gals coffee, 58 gals detergent daily.  I go to another interesting wildlife talk by Michael M.  PM is clear/sunny/warm, people lounging in & around pools.   

Scenic again in a strait among mountains in British Columbia.  Michael points out sights, lots of dolphins leaping & surfing in the ship’s wake.  None of the orcas often seen here, but still idyllic.  We’re both a bit groggy from the Dramamine; it’s good we’re not driving the ship.  Buffet dinner with stunning views over bow.  We finish packing for disembarkation tomorrow.  Everyone leaves luggage outside staterooms to be picked up; we’re clearly at the low end for amount of luggage.  Nice evening stroll around the deck, more dolphins, as we glide by thickly-forested mountains (still some snow on top).

Mon., June 4:

          We’re already at Vancouver dock when we awake on a sunny AM.  The last day, and I’m finally not waking up real early.  Did we gain the average 8 lbs for cruise passengers (according to Marjorie’s cousin Dr. Jim)?  Well, I can still get my pants on.  We get our “checkout” statement: tour costs, drinks (some wine w/ dinners, covered by onboard credit courtesy of Jenny, our AAA agent), tips for dining staff ($6.50/day/person).  We leave a tip in an envelope for Arlene, who’s kidding around (and mints, of course) we’ve enjoyed.  After breakfast a wait to be called for our bus to Seattle.  It’s very busy: a few names of passengers are broadcast to stop at the purser (deadbeats?), supplies and fuel being loaded, crew preparing for northbound passengers this PM.  Holland America Vollendam next to us; we played tag w/ them all week.  Vancouver harbor is pretty, but no big deal after what we’ve seen.  We’re among the last to be herded off and leave the pier about 10:15 (some in our group will clearly not make their 1:00 flight from Seattle, and they’re not happy).  Dan & Patsy in front seats of the bus, which seems to bring the cruise full circle.  Chatty driver doesn’t know right from left when pointing out sights.  Quickly thru Canadian & US customs.  What, no lunch on the bus?  A pretty drive: flowers similar to Irish gorse along the road, views of Seattle skyline.  Mostly cloudy, but brighter in Seattle.  To Sea-Tac airport, bus to Westin downtown, taxi to U of Washington to meet up with our hosts, Stew & Patty (former colleagues of Russ’ now returned to their roots here).  We have to pass thru picketing grad students: memories of the “other UW” in my Wisconsin grad student days. 

A bus into Pike Place Market on the waterfront.  Brightly decorated pig sculptures scattered around from a recent festival.  Dinner at Ivar’s Acres of Clams, a local institution where we’d eaten with Matt & Uncle Bill years ago.  Stew corrects my pronunciation of Ivar, but they’ve never been to the Seattle Underground Tour, so I guess he doesn’t know everything!  Patty appreciates some new jokes we learned on the trip for her trademark silly jokes collection.   

Back to campus for a stroll.  Very pretty trees & gardens; I’m envious of their campus ambience.  Into Whole Foods, incredible produce and interesting other stuff (like Trader Joe’s in Boston); Marjorie wishes these were in Albany.

Tues., June 5:

          Light rain.  We’re headed home just in time: running out of deodorant, toothpaste, clean undies.  Beautiful greenery all around here w/ rhododendrons, poppies, roses.  A drive to Edmonds, a pretty little town on the water.  A last wildlife tour at the pier: great blue heron & kingfisher (Stew & Patty are expert birders), plus crabs, starfish, anemones.  We don’t have our land legs yet, still feeling some ship motion at times.  12:45pm flight to JFK uneventful, but, of course, the last (and shortest) flight of the trip to Albany delayed 2 hours.  Finally home about 1am.  Our car goes thunka-thunka-thunka all the way home, spends the next 2 days in the shop.  Lawn much healthier than when we left and Marjorie’s garden has exploded.  Lots of rain here while we were gone; ironically, we had better weather in Alaska.

          A great adventure!  Marjorie confided she thought of this as “my” trip, but that it was our best trip so far (in the non-Europe category).  Alaska itself was the main attraction, of course: incredible and unique scenery & wildlife.  We especially enjoyed the week on our own.  The cruise was very nice, but not the focus for us that it was for many on the ship; we didn’t use a lot of the ship’s amenities and it felt odd to be so pampered all the time.  But it was great to always have pretty views from the deck, plus wonderful ports and shore excursions.  (And did I mention the food?)  I guess it was the cherry topping on a perfect trip!  Now we’re back home in the lower 48.